As a retired educational administrator, it was my responsibility to assess teacher. You have earned superior rating as far as I am concerned. Clear in your explanations an methodical in your presentations. You really “ know your stuff!”
I am a retired hvac service tech,,by watching this video it reminded me of the old days.You are a very good teacher these young tech's can learn lot from you. Keep up the good work.
You are my go to guy on UA-cam!! With your help I've managed to fix my furnace twice & my neighbor's once this past year. One circuit board, 1 ignitor and most recently a failed hi temp switch stuck open. The HVAC company my neighbor called wanted $1200 to replace the circuit board to fix the last problem. (Jeez). Then tried to sell him a new furnace & A/C for a total of $17,000. Thank god for Amazon Prime & you young man!!!
Hi, fellow former HTC alumni here! You asked for comments on other fixes. I had a brand new Goodman 60K BTU furnace installed a week ago. Learned from you how to read the fault code by taping the interlock switch, and was getting 9H EE3 code. Service manual indicated probable open limit switch, and possible causes, including blower motor & connections. Since they connect directly to the control board, I reseated (aka disconnect/reconnect) all the connectors I could find on the board and also on the blower. Problem solved! (So far anyway). As a former system engineer we would sometimes get brand new name-brand servers with issues that could often be fixed simply by reseating balky connectors. Over time and with heat connectors can also partially fail, and simply need to be reseated.
I have looked for a long time to find a video to explain all of this. THANK YOU !!! I have a furnace that is over heating and the technician has been out 4 times and can't figure it out. You are the best.
You have the best HVAC channel on UA-cam ! I recently finished hvac school and I’ve been doing my own service calls on my own. I reference your videos all the time. You have explained everything so simple that it makes sense.
after a month of troubleshooting my furnace, flame sensor, high limit, and pressure switch i stumbled across this video and ive never heard that gas pressure could be too high. well mine was and i got it adjusted and now my furnace works perfectly!
This is one of the most informative videos and his series. I went through every single steps to check every single issues regarding my short cycling / overheating issues. My furnace when the temp is extremely cold cant bring my house up past 64 F. Upon checking, my heating cycle is about under 5 minutes. After checking each steps from this video, apparently it was short cycling because of high limits detected overheating and automatically shut down my furnace flames. after following and checking Jay's instructions, it was my gas pressure issue (time in the video is 19 minutes and 40 sec in case you didnt know what i was referencing). My gas pressure was way too high, and thus overheating triggered the shutdown to the furnace. i adjusted the gas pressure in the module to the proper pressure (ps: do not do this yourself if you are a complete novice) and now my furnace and blower cools just right to have continious heating (last run the flames came on and the heating exchanges were cools for continue run) for 30 minute until the house was at the temperature set. Many thanks Jay for this informative video.
Thank you for taking the time to share that David! Glad you were able to track down the problem and get it fixed! I was a little vague on how to check and adjust the gas pressure since I didn't want someone who is not sure of what they are doing to try that (like you mentioned as well). Stay warm! :)
You are very advanced in the field of heating. You are very articulate . Thats the reason I watch your channel. Without you sharing this knowledge I would have been in the cold this evening. You saved me . Thank you.
Man bro the pictures you include when you give an example is awesome real talk. Explanation are good but the pictures bring it all together by seeing a partial plugged or totally plug evap coil, thanks.
Excellent video. Lot of in depth info. I recently was told by an HVAC repair guy that I should replace my 23 yr. old furnace. The estimate for that was $3000. He also said that the inducer fan assembly needed to be replaced. The estimate for that was $500. I told him I would think about it. I did agree with him that the inducer fan assembly needed replacing because the duct housing had cracks in it (it was plastic, and of course over time heat will cause the plastic to deteriorate and crack. So I bought a replacement on line (which had a metal housing) for $169 with free shipping. It took me approximately 20 minutes to replace the old with the new using 2 tools, a screwdriver and a needle nose pliers. I totaled up the cost of me replacing most of the major components as necessary and it was way below $3000. I think the only thing I would make me buy a new furnace would be if the heat exchanger failed as my furnace is not easily accessible to work on. Thanks for the tips on how to inspect the heat exchanger and the filter replacement reminder.
if your old inducer assembly was plastic its likely because its a 90% furnace and has condensation. so if you used a metal one you have a problem there.
Should of jumped on the 3000 new furnace. That's a good deal and it would probably come with 10 year parts and labor or 5 minimum, but I would aim for and company with 10
Thanks man, but I am far from having an apprentice :) I just work with some good veteran techs. If they had a UA-cam channel, they would put mine to shame lol.
Thank you for the help! There was a piece of cardboard on top of our A coil!!! Roll back sensor kept tripping. Thanks to your video you possibly helped our house not burn down! We don’t know how that cardboard got there but it was blocking one whole side of the A coil. Now we have heat after a week!
Highly informative.... I trip on high limit and found the inlet hole in the can was smaller than the filter... the drunk HVAC guy didn't cut the hole big enough causing restricted airflow, because when I ran it without the filter it did not trip high limit... this is a new furnace...
Great Job! Clear, concise and easy to understand just like all of your video's. I also want to give a shout out to your camera person, great job there too.
Love your videos. You explain so perfectly and it all makes sense in the end. Also love how many times you said "that's not what this video is about" but it gave me more useful information. Thank you and you are good on the eyes to watch 😉
I had spent two years and hundreds if not thousands of dollars trying to get repairmen to fix my furnace. I watched one of your videos and fixed it myself for 140 dollars (new control board with flame sensor). Thanks for the help!
Lorenzo.. a one wire flame sensor unless ceramic is cracked or damaged, they never fail..just get dirty with oxide build up. Just carefully clean the rod with fine sandpaper and replace.
There is a lot of good information being related to us in this video. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. On the weak blower motor slowing down, sometimes a good oiling of the bearings in the motor will fix that problem but most people just replace the motor.
hi You explain so perfectly and it all makes sense in the end. Also love how many times you said "that's not what this video is about" but it gave me more useful information. thanks
Great video. I appreciate the detail to describe the issues and how to resolve them. The problem with my 90% efficiency propane furnace began when it started cycling continuously and would not ignite. I called my local HVAC tech and of course it worked great while she was testing it. Her diagnosis was that I needed a new pressure switch at the price of $400. Immediately I went online and found one for $25. I paid the service call and respectfully sent her on her way with a message about price gouging. I installed the pressure switch and my furnace still kept cycling without igniting. During the inspection I noticed that my inducer motor was laboring and making a whining noise. So I replaced it as well. After that, my furnace still had difficulty igniting. Then I decided to check my condensate trap and it was plugged. After I cleaned the trap and reinstalled with my new pressure switch and exhaust blower it still did not cycle. I can get my furnace to ignite and run for one cycle and after that it shuts down until I reset the breaker. I started investigating and found that the thermister on my control board was very hot to the touch after the furnace got up to temp. After the circuit board cooled down it will ignite and run for a cycle until it gets hot again. No soft lock outs. Can you explain how this? My next option is to replace the circuit board. I hope that fixes it. Let me know if you have any other ideas. Thanks.
First off Jay I want to thank you for your time making these videos. I've been following and watching your channel. You sir are dead on! Side note an amp meter helps find a weak blower motor. The amp reading will not match spec. Thanks again.
What a fantastic video. You are extremely knowledgeable and explain concepts really well. An additional thing to check for variable speed blowers is the DIP switch settings. On my Carrier 59TP6, SW1-4 is the comfort/efficiency adjustment which reduces the fan speed when set to ON (default) by 7% (single stage) and 10% (2 stage). Additionally, SW1-3 is the Low Heat Rise Adjustment which is used when you have a bypass Humidifier which reduces the airflow by 16% when set to ON. Make sure these are set correctly to get sufficient airflow.
Thank you for the great comment. I've been thinking of the cause of the failure (Code 33 then code 13 to lock out for 3 hours time to time) of my brand new Carrier furnace with a bypass humidifier. The Furnace threw the error code intermittently during the cold days (around -20C) and finally figured it out. I haven't touched SW1-3 but just by turning OFF SW1-4, fixed the Error code 33. limit circuit fault. installer did not adjust the setting and had no clue how to figure this out. had to pay them $100 for the service but all they said was change the filter and don't block the return air... what a great advice for $100... anyhow, I am thinking of adjusting SW1-3 now that it actually reduces the airflow by 16%... monitoring the furnace for a couple days...(I live in Ontario, Canada and the temperature changes dramatically everyday...)
@@ericchoi1610 I live in Ontario as well. Last year my Furnace would overheat in the mornings when the 2 stage kicked in after the overnight programmed temp moved from 19C to 23C on particularly cold nighs. This would reset my Ecobee 3 because the overheating would cut power to the thermostat. I ended up switching SW1-3 to the ON position. This switch, when turned on, increases the low heat airflow by 18% to compensate for a by-pass humidifier, which I do have. I also switched SW1-4 to the off position. This switch as mentioned above, when switched on decreases the low heat(single stage) airflow by 7% and high heat (2nd stage) airflow by 10 percent. With these 2 changes, I ensure maximum airflow, reducing any hot air from accumulating in the furnace. Glad it helped you out as well.
Secondary Heat Exchanger also acts the same as the Evaporator coil and gets dirty with air moving throught it, Please dont leave a door switch taped closed because its a safety. Great video !!!!!
High efficiency filters typically also have more pleats. The true test is the pressure drop chart on the furnace filter cut sheet. MERV is the only real standardized filter efficiency rating and I would never use anything lower than MERV 8 in your home. If you have allergies I would highly recommend a MERV 13. A MERV 13 will filter out smaller allergens as well as smoke, lead dust, bacteria and some viruses. I also do recommend installing a thicker filter housing such as a 16”x25”x4” that takes standardized sized filters. Some name brand filter housings only take proprietary sized filters. And if you have any HVAC buddies they can get you the premium MERV 13 rated filters for the same price as the MERV 8 filters you get at the store. I personally like the AirGuard DP-Green 13 filters because they have a low pressure drop, have excellent efficiency, and have cardboard pleat stabilizers to maximize surface area. Also I would say if you don’t run a pet grooming business out of your home changing your filter every month is a bit excessive.
I live in a doublewide and am having a problem with the furnace overheating and shutting down. The Honeywell starts blinking green every second to reset it. I checked my blower and it is spinning fine but it is covered in dust. I watched your video on how to clean it and know what I'll be doing really really soon and hope that it takes care of my problem. Thanks for your informative and well explained videos!!!! Rick
I talked to the service office person this morning about the condensate trap probably need cleaning. They sent out 2 different service techs this time to get fresh eyes on the issue. They cleaned out the condensate trap and found some stink bugs in there. The system is working after that. The service office person told me there probably more bugs fell in the trap since they other tech spent 2 minutes vacuum the top of the exhaust hole on Monday. I think they tried to frame us for another $100 cleaning fee plus additional diagnostic charge for today. I will find out for sure tomorrow the final bill. You're right about the condensate trap. If the tech had cleaned it out like he should on Monday, the issue probably would have been taken care off then and my family didn't have to spend last few days without heat; the inducer motor and the pressure switch might not need to be replaced either if the first tech did the job right. Anyway, we now have heat. Thank you providing feedback last few days. Your videos provide a lot of useful info and help me diagnose the problem, more helpful than the real life tech for sure.
Thanks so much! Turns out my limit switch is the button type, and there's a reset button right in the middle. I pushed it a couple times, put the covers back on, and it fired up again just fine. It's been about 12 hours, so hopefully it was just a one-of. Thanks again!
You're welcome! I hope it will work just fine from now on but just in case, if it happens again, the switch you were talking about is actually called a flame rollout switch and it is not the same thing as a high limit switch. There may be a bigger issue in the background. ua-cam.com/video/VAHSmeTTKpI/v-deo.html
Haha thank you! Good to know some people don't mind the side-tracking :) I get comments that are the opposite: "Get to the dang point man". I appreciate the comment, thanks for watching! Happy Thanksgiving to you and family!
Wow! I'm so impressed how knowledgeable you are. Should most technicians be able to come into our home and figure out why our furnace is overheating? We have had two different companies come out to try to fix it, and it is still overheating. The one guy shorted out the board when he was here. Ugh. Anyway, do you by any chance live close enough to Pottstown, PA so we can hire YOU to come and fix it right? As a person completely ignorant to this type of thing, the only thing we are comfortable doing ourselves is changing the filter and the thermostat. Thanks!
Thanks for this great video. Please make some repair videos on high-efficiency furnaces as mid-efficiency furnaces are now rare in Canada. Thanks again
Very informative video. I have an American standard freedom 90 single stage furnace that is giving a few issues. 4 beeping light error but there are times when the furnace would blow hot air, after it reaches the limit it would stop but continue to blow cold air. Sometimes it blows hot air for 5 minutes sometimes am hour or two, it's inconsistent. I have a new air filter and a new limit switch and still the same result. Total newbie here. Thanks.
One time a furnace was overheating and couldn’t figure out why. They had AprilAire accordion style 210 filter and it looked very clean. Come to find out, they had little portable humidifiers running everywhere and they did not fill them with distilled water, so all the minerals and stuff from the evaporated water went into the return and plugged the filter. Even though it was completely white and looked clean. We shook the filter and saw a ton of white dust fall to the ground. So that is one thing to look out for if you see someone with a lot of little room humidifiers throughout their home. They need to be filled with distilled water.
As always, love your educational videos. Very helpful to DIYers out there no doubt. Do you happen to have video of you cleaning a dirty evap coil? Would love to see one. Once again, thnx for what you do!...
You can turn a box fan into an air-scrubber by taping a high end furnace filter to it. I have 3 of them I use every now and then to purify the air. It doesn't build up mold inside like the enclosed air purifiers can do.
Thank you for your advice, for your help. No it's not too hot just in the exhaust side I thought it was for the new gas valve because in the package there are some little parts also I included like springs, but maybe it's for other different gas like propane. But the pressure looks okay so I thought it's already set to 3.5 w.c. Thank you so much for all your videos and your help.
Very good explained, thank you. What cause that overheat sensor to not coming back to normal after the temperature goes down? Only if I turn off/on the power it will get back to normal and start heating the house.
Thanks for the enthusiastic and knowledgeable video. Replaced the board, the inducer motor with a used one, and now the HVAC person wants to replace the heat exchanger based on components getting physically hot to the touch. To check for restricted vents, could I remove the filter for a short period of time? After 12 plus years is just getting a new furnace the best bet?
Really helpful! Thank you so much! Was looking for the root cause why my furnace has random high limit switch open, of course it is not the switch itself. Thank you!!!
Love your videos they are so helpful. I have had a trane xb 80 furnace for 12 years, or since we bought this house. It has always overheated. Only adding vents and using fiberglass filters helped. Anyhow it is a down draft and there are five 6" pipes in the plentium. I was told, that is not enough and is causing the problem. Does that seem right to you. Also the house is two stories and on a concrete slab
As an electrical engineer, I learn a lot from your channel about HVAC. Is it possible that you can make a video of how to clean the dirty A coil by removing the blower motor and cleaning from the under. I only found videos of cleaning the A coil by removing the cover of the coil. The cover of A coil is sometimes hardly to take out. Thanks and Keep up the good work.
Wow what a great video, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I have a York that fires and runs for about 10 mins then shuts down with a 4 light flash. I thought it was the filter, but a week later it did the same. I guess I will need to check the high temp switch. Yesterday once it threw an 11 blink code too.
You should clock the gas meter to see how many BTU'S the furnace is using before adjusting the manifold pressure on the gas valve. 3.5"wc is the reference setting but clocking the meter will tell you if the equipment is over or under firing. The manifold pressure should then be adjusted so that the appliance is firing as close to the manufacturers rated input as possible without over firing. 3600÷time in seconds for 1 revolution of the smallest test dial×size of test dial×1000 for BTU'S/HR. This is only usually done once at the time of installation while making sure only the equipment in question is using gas. You may find that at 3.5"wc the equipment may actually be over firing (premature damage)or underfiring (loss of efficiency).
Great video! Mine was tripping due to dirty 2nd stage heat exchanger and A coil. Where is you video on checking the control board and blower motor? Thanks!
And #11, if you have a zone system with motorized dampers. The zone motor may be burned out in the closed position, or possibly a bound up damper assembly that is not opening properly and hanging up. And for those who may have an older belt driven furnace, check for cracks and belt tension. And finally, you may want to add #12, by making sure the set screw on a direct drive blower motor wheel didn't become loose causing the blower wheel to spin at partial speed.
Great video. If I removed my blower motor and laid on my back to inspect the a-coil, could I use a long-hosed vacuum to clean the a-coil? How would you clean it?
I’m looking for suggestions. I have a York 5ton (18 years old) with A/C. I was getting several error codes on the control board that made no sense so I called a furnace repair tech; he did basically nothing and said he’d come back if the problems continued; of course they did continue because he didn’t do anything. I replaced may control board and Thermostat, which fixed the codes. I also cleaned the flame sensor, which helped a bit. I tested the high pressure sensor (0.0 ohms) so most likely thats good. The one problem that is still happening is the main blower frequently won’t turn on by itself. This makes the over temperature cut off switch shut the furnace down. If I set the blower thermostat switch to “on” briefly, or jump it at the control board briefly, the furnace runs through a normal temperature cycle as it should. The control board has no error codes stored. Why isn’t the main blower turning on, automatically, when the thermostat calls for heat?
I might make one later, when I clean mine. They can be a pain to get to since it's best to clean it from underneath. In fact the company I work for now, we don't even do A-coil cleaning to avoid the hassle. We just tell the customer to call a duct cleaning company to clean it for them.
very useful info.. i am epa certified and know the basics. my lennox furnace is stumping me. it turns on, runs, doesnt get quite up to temp, shuts down and fires right back up. . Short cycling... wondering if its overheating
I've found that those HEPA filters (even brand new ones) can be so restrictive as to cause overheating, usually this is in conjunction with undersized return air ducts.
I am having a limit switch problem on a furnace I installed last year. It was a cold winter night when the job was completed and it worked fine until now. They had a contractor eliminate a return and he claimed that it wasn't hooked up anyway. It was using the ceiling as a chase and it was critical. I'm going back there today and I expect some arguing with the contractor because the home improvements also ran an 8-inch box beam through a 24 by 10 duct. Do it yourself remodelers are usually the culprit but some pros won't give a shit about the duct system.
Is there a recommended location to check the leaving air temperature in the supply when taking temperature rise calculations? I would suspect moving the thermometer few inches up and down will give different results. Thanks for your videos.
Takes readings from the front or sides of the intake and return, take the highest of the two numbers and subtract them, when you do that look at your service panel it will tell you what the glide should be.
Hi, thank you for your awesome videos! I am having issues with overheating inducer motor, do you have any trouble shooting for that? And how do you clean the coil?
Your videos are great sir, the way you teach is really thorough. I am trying to find a video to try to figure out an issue my system is having. In summary, the heat pump brings hot air into the system (the air line is hot to the touch) but it seems like the refrigerant line is not getting warm and therefore the auxiliary heat is being triggered even with temperatures in the 50s. I've found online a few things that can cause this behavior. The problem is that a company that came over to see the system is saying that everything is bad and that they need to replace the whole HVAC system which is only 7 years old. We are calling other companies to check and give us a second opinion but something tells me that this can be repaired. Do you have any ideas on what to expect? Thanks!
Great video! I had high limit switch popped two times in a week. At the first one I tapped to sensor and it got fixed, for the second time, I decided to call a HVAC person. He told me that it is not so common to have it that often. He wasn't sure what the problem is and told me to replace the dumper motors since they are so old, they usually cause problem. They got stuck and don't let the hot air flow towards to destination, and it pushed back to the furnace so it cause over heating. What do you think about it?
if you have allergies or ASTHMA, note that modern furnace filters are made of PLASTIC FIBERS (Polypropylene) and shade a lot of fibers that burn and evaporate on contact with the glowing heat exchanger. Go ahead and Google this: "What are 3m Filtrete filters made of?" Next take a close look at your indoor dust with magnifying lens: a lot of fibers, some white particles of all size all the way down to flower mist. The super fine dust is the allergen that triggers lung reaction that gets created when plastic fibers flash evaporate on contact with gas heated surface inside the furnace. 🙂
Thanks to your video I have a good starting point to troubleshooting my Ruud Furnace Model No. UGPH-10EAMER. It is going off due to the high limit Controle. What temperature should the DATS be set to? If the High Limit Switch is set to open at 170F and close at 80F?
As a retired educational administrator, it was my responsibility to assess teacher. You have earned superior rating as far as I am concerned. Clear in your explanations an methodical in your presentations. You really “ know your stuff!”
I am a retired hvac service tech,,by watching this video it reminded me of the old days.You are a very good teacher these young tech's can learn lot from you. Keep up the good work.
You are my go to guy on UA-cam!! With your help I've managed to fix my furnace twice & my neighbor's once this past year. One circuit board, 1 ignitor and most recently a failed hi temp switch stuck open. The HVAC company my neighbor called wanted $1200 to replace the circuit board to fix the last problem. (Jeez). Then tried to sell him a new furnace & A/C for a total of $17,000. Thank god for Amazon Prime & you young man!!!
This video was gold. It should be a part of every apprenticeship program
Glad to hear it was useful! Thank you!
Hi, fellow former HTC alumni here! You asked for comments on other fixes. I had a brand new Goodman 60K BTU furnace installed a week ago. Learned from you how to read the fault code by taping the interlock switch, and was getting 9H EE3 code. Service manual indicated probable open limit switch, and possible causes, including blower motor & connections. Since they connect directly to the control board, I reseated (aka disconnect/reconnect) all the connectors I could find on the board and also on the blower. Problem solved! (So far anyway). As a former system engineer we would sometimes get brand new name-brand servers with issues that could often be fixed simply by reseating balky connectors. Over time and with heat connectors can also partially fail, and simply need to be reseated.
No matter how intelligent (at DIY) we are it is helpful when another person gives their wise experience--great video.
Yup! I've always been a guys grown up on DIY but never pass up the opportunity to learn from someone else!
I have looked for a long time to find a video to explain all of this.
THANK YOU !!! I have a furnace that is over heating and the technician has been out 4 times and can't figure it out. You are the best.
I would love to meet this man’s parents, shake their hands, and congratulate them on their wonderful contribution to this trade and society.
Thank you sir!! I'll show this comment to them, I'm sure it'll bring them joy. 🙂
You have the best HVAC channel on UA-cam ! I recently finished hvac school and I’ve been doing my own service calls on my own. I reference your videos all the time. You have explained everything so simple that it makes sense.
after a month of troubleshooting my furnace, flame sensor, high limit, and pressure switch i stumbled across this video and ive never heard that gas pressure could be too high. well mine was and i got it adjusted and now my furnace works perfectly!
This guy really knows his stuff. Head and shoulders above your average hvac technician
This is one of the most informative videos and his series. I went through every single steps to check every single issues regarding my short cycling / overheating issues. My furnace when the temp is extremely cold cant bring my house up past 64 F. Upon checking, my heating cycle is about under 5 minutes. After checking each steps from this video, apparently it was short cycling because of high limits detected overheating and automatically shut down my furnace flames. after following and checking Jay's instructions, it was my gas pressure issue (time in the video is 19 minutes and 40 sec in case you didnt know what i was referencing). My gas pressure was way too high, and thus overheating triggered the shutdown to the furnace. i adjusted the gas pressure in the module to the proper pressure (ps: do not do this yourself if you are a complete novice) and now my furnace and blower cools just right to have continious heating (last run the flames came on and the heating exchanges were cools for continue run) for 30 minute until the house was at the temperature set. Many thanks Jay for this informative video.
Thank you for taking the time to share that David! Glad you were able to track down the problem and get it fixed! I was a little vague on how to check and adjust the gas pressure since I didn't want someone who is not sure of what they are doing to try that (like you mentioned as well). Stay warm! :)
You are very advanced in the field of heating. You are very articulate . Thats the reason I watch your channel. Without you sharing this knowledge I would have been in the cold this evening. You saved me . Thank you.
That A-Coil seems very difficult to access. This is such a great channel. You have a firm and practical grasp on HVAC. You are a great teacher.
Man bro the pictures you include when you give an example is awesome real talk. Explanation are good but the pictures bring it all together by seeing a partial plugged or totally plug evap coil, thanks.
best how to youtube video ever. phenomenal depth of knowledge and detail. Exactly what I wanted.
Excellent video. Lot of in depth info. I recently was told by an HVAC repair guy that I should replace my 23 yr. old furnace. The estimate for that was $3000. He also said that the inducer fan assembly needed to be replaced. The estimate for that was $500. I told him I would think about it. I did agree with him that the inducer fan assembly needed replacing because the duct housing had cracks in it (it was plastic, and of course over time heat will cause the plastic to deteriorate and crack. So I bought a replacement on line (which had a metal housing) for $169 with free shipping. It took me approximately 20 minutes to replace the old with the new using 2 tools, a screwdriver and a needle nose pliers. I totaled up the cost of me replacing most of the major components as necessary and it was way below $3000. I think the only thing I would make me buy a new furnace would be if the heat exchanger failed as my furnace is not easily accessible to work on. Thanks for the tips on how to inspect the heat exchanger and the filter replacement reminder.
if your old inducer assembly was plastic its likely because its a 90% furnace and has condensation. so if you used a metal one you have a problem there.
Should of jumped on the 3000 new furnace. That's a good deal and it would probably come with 10 year parts and labor or 5 minimum, but I would aim for and company with 10
Dude, thank you for all that you do. You are probably the best teacher I've had so far. Any apprentice of yours is probably lucky.
Thanks man, but I am far from having an apprentice :) I just work with some good veteran techs. If they had a UA-cam channel, they would put mine to shame lol.
Thank you for the help! There was a piece of cardboard on top of our A coil!!! Roll back sensor kept tripping. Thanks to your video you possibly helped our house not burn down! We don’t know how that cardboard got there but it was blocking one whole side of the A coil. Now we have heat after a week!
I am watching this video at 1am and working on getting my heat going. This video was very helpful. Thank you!
Highly informative.... I trip on high limit and found the inlet hole in the can was smaller than the filter... the drunk HVAC guy didn't cut the hole big enough causing restricted airflow, because when I ran it without the filter it did not trip high limit... this is a new furnace...
About to call a professional but great video for general knowledge and knowing what questions to ask the Technician when they come out.
Great Job! Clear, concise and easy to understand just like all of your video's. I also want to give a shout out to your camera person, great job there too.
Love your videos. You explain so perfectly and it all makes sense in the end. Also love how many times you said "that's not what this video is about" but it gave me more useful information. Thank you and you are good on the eyes to watch 😉
I had spent two years and hundreds if not thousands of dollars trying to get repairmen to fix my furnace. I watched one of your videos and fixed it myself for 140 dollars (new control board with flame sensor). Thanks for the help!
Lorenzo.. a one wire flame sensor unless ceramic is cracked or damaged, they never fail..just get dirty with oxide build up. Just carefully clean the rod with fine sandpaper and replace.
I was able to follow his instructions , heater is up and running!!!! Thank you.!
Excellent job teaching I’ve been in the HVAC industry for many years
There is a lot of good information being related to us in this video. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. On the weak blower motor slowing down, sometimes a good oiling of the bearings in the motor will fix that problem but most people just replace the motor.
hi You explain so perfectly and it all makes sense in the end. Also love how many times you said "that's not what this video is about" but it gave me more useful information. thanks
Great video. I appreciate the detail to describe the issues and how to resolve them. The problem with my 90% efficiency propane furnace began when it started cycling continuously and would not ignite. I called my local HVAC tech and of course it worked great while she was testing it. Her diagnosis was that I needed a new pressure switch at the price of $400. Immediately I went online and found one for $25. I paid the service call and respectfully sent her on her way with a message about price gouging. I installed the pressure switch and my furnace still kept cycling without igniting. During the inspection I noticed that my inducer motor was laboring and making a whining noise. So I replaced it as well. After that, my furnace still had difficulty igniting. Then I decided to check my condensate trap and it was plugged. After I cleaned the trap and reinstalled with my new pressure switch and exhaust blower it still did not cycle. I can get my furnace to ignite and run for one cycle and after that it shuts down until I reset the breaker. I started investigating and found that the thermister on my control board was very hot to the touch after the furnace got up to temp. After the circuit board cooled down it will ignite and run for a cycle until it gets hot again. No soft lock outs. Can you explain how this? My next option is to replace the circuit board. I hope that fixes it. Let me know if you have any other ideas. Thanks.
This is why good techs cost so much, so you're not just blindly replacing parts. I'm sorry your first tech didn't fix the problem
Dude I’ve found myself coming back to your videos. They really help more then my school text books do lol
I'll take that as a compliment ;) Thanks man! Glad you find my videos helpful!
Same here haha
First off Jay I want to thank you for your time making these videos. I've been following and watching your channel. You sir are dead on! Side note an amp meter helps find a weak blower motor. The amp reading will not match spec. Thanks again.
What a fantastic video. You are extremely knowledgeable and explain concepts really well. An additional thing to check for variable speed blowers is the DIP switch settings. On my Carrier 59TP6, SW1-4 is the comfort/efficiency adjustment which reduces the fan speed when set to ON (default) by 7% (single stage) and 10% (2 stage). Additionally, SW1-3 is the Low Heat Rise Adjustment which is used when you have a bypass Humidifier which reduces the airflow by 16% when set to ON. Make sure these are set correctly to get sufficient airflow.
Thank you for the great comment. I've been thinking of the cause of the failure (Code 33 then code 13 to lock out for 3 hours time to time) of my brand new Carrier furnace with a bypass humidifier. The Furnace threw the error code intermittently during the cold days (around -20C) and finally figured it out. I haven't touched SW1-3 but just by turning OFF SW1-4, fixed the Error code 33. limit circuit fault. installer did not adjust the setting and had no clue how to figure this out. had to pay them $100 for the service but all they said was change the filter and don't block the return air... what a great advice for $100... anyhow, I am thinking of adjusting SW1-3 now that it actually reduces the airflow by 16%... monitoring the furnace for a couple days...(I live in Ontario, Canada and the temperature changes dramatically everyday...)
@@ericchoi1610 I live in Ontario as well. Last year my Furnace would overheat in the mornings when the 2 stage kicked in after the overnight programmed temp moved from 19C to 23C on particularly cold nighs. This would reset my Ecobee 3 because the overheating would cut power to the thermostat.
I ended up switching SW1-3 to the ON position. This switch, when turned on, increases the low heat airflow by 18% to compensate for a by-pass humidifier, which I do have.
I also switched SW1-4 to the off position. This switch as mentioned above, when switched on decreases the low heat(single stage) airflow by 7% and high heat (2nd stage) airflow by 10 percent. With these 2 changes, I ensure maximum airflow, reducing any hot air from accumulating in the furnace.
Glad it helped you out as well.
Fixes mine today, flame sensor was dirty. Thanks to you . great job!!
Secondary Heat Exchanger also acts the same as the Evaporator coil and gets dirty with air moving throught it, Please dont leave a door switch taped closed because its a safety. Great video !!!!!
excellent explanation. Your method of explanation for HVAC work is exceptional! thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Loved seeing the inside of the high limit, very cool, thank you
You know what you are doing , very good demonstration
This is the best furnace troubleshooting video I have seen. Thx!
High efficiency filters typically also have more pleats. The true test is the pressure drop chart on the furnace filter cut sheet. MERV is the only real standardized filter efficiency rating and I would never use anything lower than MERV 8 in your home.
If you have allergies I would highly recommend a MERV 13.
A MERV 13 will filter out smaller allergens as well as smoke, lead dust, bacteria and some viruses. I also do recommend installing a thicker filter housing such as a 16”x25”x4” that takes standardized sized filters. Some name brand filter housings only take proprietary sized filters. And if you have any HVAC buddies they can get you the premium MERV 13 rated filters for the same price as the MERV 8 filters you get at the store. I personally like the AirGuard DP-Green 13 filters because they have a low pressure drop, have excellent efficiency, and have cardboard pleat stabilizers to maximize surface area. Also I would say if you don’t run a pet grooming business out of your home changing your filter every month is a bit excessive.
I live in a doublewide and am having a problem with the furnace overheating and shutting down. The Honeywell starts blinking green every second to reset it. I checked my blower and it is spinning fine but it is covered in dust. I watched your video on how to clean it and know what I'll be doing really really soon and hope that it takes care of my problem. Thanks for your informative and well explained videos!!!! Rick
Did cleaning the unit fix the issues?
I talked to the service office person this morning about the condensate trap probably need cleaning. They sent out 2 different service techs this time to get fresh eyes on the issue. They cleaned out the condensate trap and found some stink bugs in there. The system is working after that. The service office person told me there probably more bugs fell in the trap since they other tech spent 2 minutes vacuum the top of the exhaust hole on Monday. I think they tried to frame us for another $100 cleaning fee plus additional diagnostic charge for today. I will find out for sure tomorrow the final bill. You're right about the condensate trap. If the tech had cleaned it out like he should on Monday, the issue probably would have been taken care off then and my family didn't have to spend last few days without heat; the inducer motor and the pressure switch might not need to be replaced either if the first tech did the job right. Anyway, we now have heat. Thank you providing feedback last few days. Your videos provide a lot of useful info and help me diagnose the problem, more helpful than the real life tech for sure.
Sorry to hear about your bad experience but I'm glad the furnace is back up and running again! Thank you for coming back with an update! Stay warm!
You make the BEST furnace videos. Thank you!
Thanks so much! Turns out my limit switch is the button type, and there's a reset button right in the middle. I pushed it a couple times, put the covers back on, and it fired up again just fine. It's been about 12 hours, so hopefully it was just a one-of. Thanks again!
You're welcome! I hope it will work just fine from now on but just in case, if it happens again, the switch you were talking about is actually called a flame rollout switch and it is not the same thing as a high limit switch. There may be a bigger issue in the background. ua-cam.com/video/VAHSmeTTKpI/v-deo.html
Wow, very good! Right now I’m dealing with a Carrier furnace that trips out at 165 degrees. Possible cracked ring in heat exchanger.
Been learning from you and you're a great teacher! love it when you get completely off topic 😂
Haha thank you! Good to know some people don't mind the side-tracking :) I get comments that are the opposite: "Get to the dang point man". I appreciate the comment, thanks for watching! Happy Thanksgiving to you and family!
Your work is great and the videos very helpful. Thank you and keep at it. Could you create a video on DIY yearly maintenance for the furnace?
Wow! I'm so impressed how knowledgeable you are. Should most technicians be able to come into our home and figure out why our furnace is overheating? We have had two different companies come out to try to fix it, and it is still overheating. The one guy shorted out the board when he was here. Ugh. Anyway, do you by any chance live close enough to Pottstown, PA so we can hire YOU to come and fix it right? As a person completely ignorant to this type of thing, the only thing we are comfortable doing ourselves is changing the filter and the thermostat. Thanks!
Good video with a lot of tips to fix the hvac in your home, Thanks it help me a lot
I love this guy. I want him to come to my house and go through everything and show me all the issues.
Thanks for the flashlight. Way more utility that the ones I'd been using.
Very good video. It is great to reference during overheating Furnace calls.
Your video is the best on the internet! Thank you!
Thanks for this great video. Please make some repair videos on high-efficiency furnaces as mid-efficiency furnaces are now rare in Canada. Thanks again
You are right! Perhaps I can film some videos at my dad's house later on.. He has a new 97% Carrier.
What an awesome video. I think you just taught me HVAC in one video!
Glad you liked the video! This video is only the tip of the iceberg though :)
Very informative video. I have an American standard freedom 90 single stage furnace that is giving a few issues. 4 beeping light error but there are times when the furnace would blow hot air, after it reaches the limit it would stop but continue to blow cold air. Sometimes it blows hot air for 5 minutes sometimes am hour or two, it's inconsistent. I have a new air filter and a new limit switch and still the same result. Total newbie here. Thanks.
Great Video thank you for showing us all these possible reasons for overheating. Thank you again.
Glad you like the videos! Thank you for watching and commenting!
One time a furnace was overheating and couldn’t figure out why. They had AprilAire accordion style 210 filter and it looked very clean. Come to find out, they had little portable humidifiers running everywhere and they did not fill them with distilled water, so all the minerals and stuff from the evaporated water went into the return and plugged the filter. Even though it was completely white and looked clean. We shook the filter and saw a ton of white dust fall to the ground. So that is one thing to look out for if you see someone with a lot of little room humidifiers throughout their home. They need to be filled with distilled water.
Awesome video. Another issue I've run into regarding airflow, is dampers or zoning system issues.
Once again great video, easy to understand.
As always, love your educational videos. Very helpful to DIYers out there no doubt. Do you happen to have video of you cleaning a dirty evap coil? Would love to see one. Once again, thnx for what you do!...
Vacuum with soft bristle hose, plus compressed air, plus evaporator coil cleaner. Super easy, barely an inconvenience
You can turn a box fan into an air-scrubber by taping a high end furnace filter to it. I have 3 of them I use every now and then to purify the air. It doesn't build up mold inside like the enclosed air purifiers can do.
Very informative, just shows how endless the possibilities are, each point you made has "sub points" to boot..that's why we get paid the big bucks 👍
Thank you for your advice, for your help. No it's not too hot just in the exhaust side I thought it was for the new gas valve because in the package there are some little parts also I included like springs, but maybe it's for other different gas like propane. But the pressure looks okay so I thought it's already set to 3.5 w.c. Thank you so much for all your videos and your help.
Yeah, those extra parts are to convert the gas valve for LP. Glad I was able to help, stay warm!
Very good explained, thank you. What cause that overheat sensor to not coming back to normal after the temperature goes down? Only if I turn off/on the power it will get back to normal and start heating the house.
Thanks for the enthusiastic and knowledgeable video. Replaced the board, the inducer motor with a used one, and now the HVAC person wants to replace the heat exchanger based on components getting physically hot to the touch. To check for restricted vents, could I remove the filter for a short period of time? After 12 plus years is just getting a new furnace the best bet?
Thanks so much The same thing happened to me, it turned on and off all the time it did not stay on thanks to your video I fixed it💯💯👍👍
Really helpful! Thank you so much! Was looking for the root cause why my furnace has random high limit switch open, of course it is not the switch itself.
Thank you!!!
Love your videos they are so helpful. I have had a trane xb 80 furnace for 12 years, or since we bought this house. It has always overheated. Only adding vents and using fiberglass filters helped. Anyhow it is a down draft and there are five 6" pipes in the plentium. I was told, that is not enough and is causing the problem. Does that seem right to you. Also the house is two stories and on a concrete slab
Just such an helpful video. Solved my problem . A Coil. Thank You. Keep up the good work
Glad I was able to help! :)
Super helpful video! Thank you!!! How about doing video about maintenance? How often, why and what exactly need to clean?
Thank you! I may make a video like that down the road
As an electrical engineer, I learn a lot from your channel about HVAC. Is it possible that you can make a video of how to clean the dirty A coil by removing the blower motor and cleaning from the under. I only found videos of cleaning the A coil by removing the cover of the coil. The cover of A coil is sometimes hardly to take out. Thanks and Keep up the good work.
Very informative, and straight to the point! Thank you
Wow what a great video, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I have a York that fires and runs for about 10 mins then shuts down with a 4 light flash. I thought it was the filter, but a week later it did the same. I guess I will need to check the high temp switch. Yesterday once it threw an 11 blink code too.
You should clock the gas meter to see how many BTU'S the furnace is using before adjusting the manifold pressure on the gas valve. 3.5"wc is the reference setting but clocking the meter will tell you if the equipment is over or under firing. The manifold pressure should then be adjusted so that the appliance is firing as close to the manufacturers rated input as possible without over firing. 3600÷time in seconds for 1 revolution of the smallest test dial×size of test dial×1000 for BTU'S/HR. This is only usually done once at the time of installation while making sure only the equipment in question is using gas. You may find that at 3.5"wc the equipment may actually be over firing (premature damage)or underfiring (loss of efficiency).
Thank you ,your program is always helpful.
Great video! Mine was tripping due to dirty 2nd stage heat exchanger and A coil. Where is you video on checking the control board and blower motor? Thanks!
And #11, if you have a zone system with motorized dampers. The zone motor may be burned out in the closed position, or possibly a bound up damper assembly that is not opening properly and hanging up. And for those who may have an older belt driven furnace, check for cracks and belt tension. And finally, you may want to add #12, by making sure the set screw on a direct drive blower motor wheel didn't become loose causing the blower wheel to spin at partial speed.
Wow those are good ones too! Thank you for adding #11 and #12 :)
You are my superstar and hero . This video help me a lot.
Thanks June! :)
Outstanding host. Outstanding video!!! What an incredible amount of great knowledge you display. Thank you!!! SUBSCRIBED! SUBSCRIBED! SUBSCRIBED!
I gain a lot of good knowledge from you. thanks
Looking forward to the video on cleaning your coil! It’s on my list to do as well.
Lol, it's not my favorite thing to do so it will likely get pushed out till later :)
You are awesome and very much appreciated! Thank you!
you are like the scannerdanner of hvac. You should think of becoming an instructor or starting a hvac online class.
Thank you! :) Maybe in the future.
Great video. If I removed my blower motor and laid on my back to inspect the a-coil, could I use a long-hosed vacuum to clean the a-coil? How would you clean it?
I’m looking for suggestions. I have a York 5ton (18 years old) with A/C. I was getting several error codes on the control board that made no sense so I called a furnace repair tech; he did basically nothing and said he’d come back if the problems continued; of course they did continue because he didn’t do anything.
I replaced may control board and Thermostat, which fixed the codes. I also cleaned the flame sensor, which helped a bit.
I tested the high pressure sensor (0.0 ohms) so most likely thats good. The one problem that is still happening is the main blower frequently won’t turn on by itself. This makes the over temperature cut off switch shut the furnace down. If I set the blower thermostat switch to “on” briefly, or jump it at the control board briefly, the furnace runs through a normal temperature cycle as it should. The control board has no error codes stored. Why isn’t the main blower turning on, automatically,
when the thermostat calls for heat?
Just had to look for ac tech videos nd your número uno brother thank you very much the best!!!
Informative video. Would you consider making a video describing how to properly clean an A coil?
I might make one later, when I clean mine. They can be a pain to get to since it's best to clean it from underneath. In fact the company I work for now, we don't even do A-coil cleaning to avoid the hassle. We just tell the customer to call a duct cleaning company to clean it for them.
very useful info.. i am epa certified and know the basics. my lennox furnace is stumping me. it turns on, runs, doesnt get quite up to temp, shuts down and fires right back up. . Short cycling... wondering if its overheating
I've found that those HEPA filters (even brand new ones) can be so restrictive as to cause overheating, usually this is in conjunction with undersized return air ducts.
I definitely agree! Thank you for sharing!
I am having a limit switch problem on a furnace I installed last year. It was a cold winter night when the job was completed and it worked fine until now. They had a contractor eliminate a return and he claimed that it wasn't hooked up anyway. It was using the ceiling as a chase and it was critical. I'm going back there today and I expect some arguing with the contractor because the home improvements also ran an 8-inch box beam through a 24 by 10 duct. Do it yourself remodelers are usually the culprit but some pros won't give a shit about the duct system.
thank you about your video it solve my problem my heater did hot enough to the room the problem was no air returned enough needs return air.
Is there a recommended location to check the leaving air temperature in the supply when taking temperature rise calculations? I would suspect moving the thermometer few inches up and down will give different results. Thanks for your videos.
Takes readings from the front or sides of the intake and return, take the highest of the two numbers and subtract them, when you do that look at your service panel it will tell you what the glide should be.
Hi, thank you for your awesome videos! I am having issues with overheating inducer motor, do you have any trouble shooting for that? And how do you clean the coil?
Thanks for sharing the knowledge
Your videos are great sir, the way you teach is really thorough. I am trying to find a video to try to figure out an issue my system is having. In summary, the heat pump brings hot air into the system (the air line is hot to the touch) but it seems like the refrigerant line is not getting warm and therefore the auxiliary heat is being triggered even with temperatures in the 50s. I've found online a few things that can cause this behavior. The problem is that a company that came over to see the system is saying that everything is bad and that they need to replace the whole HVAC system which is only 7 years old. We are calling other companies to check and give us a second opinion but something tells me that this can be repaired. Do you have any ideas on what to expect? Thanks!
You can also get at the A-coil by taking the humidifier off if it's installed like mine is. 👀
Great video! I had high limit switch popped two times in a week. At the first one I tapped to sensor and it got fixed, for the second time, I decided to call a HVAC person. He told me that it is not so common to have it that often. He wasn't sure what the problem is and told me to replace the dumper motors since they are so old, they usually cause problem. They got stuck and don't let the hot air flow towards to destination, and it pushed back to the furnace so it cause over heating. What do you think about it?
if you have allergies or ASTHMA, note that modern furnace filters are made of PLASTIC FIBERS (Polypropylene) and shade a lot of fibers that burn and evaporate on contact with the glowing heat exchanger.
Go ahead and Google this:
"What are 3m Filtrete filters made of?"
Next take a close look at your indoor dust with magnifying lens: a lot of fibers, some white particles of all size all the way down to flower mist.
The super fine dust is the allergen that triggers lung reaction that gets created when plastic fibers flash evaporate on contact with gas heated surface inside the furnace.
🙂
Thanks to your video I have a good starting point to troubleshooting my Ruud Furnace Model No. UGPH-10EAMER. It is going off due to the high limit Controle. What temperature should the DATS be set to? If the High Limit Switch is set to open at 170F and close at 80F?