@@WordofAdviceTV People buy at Costco with confidence. Since Costco has just the 3M Filtrete 2200 as well as their own Kirkland Signature 2200 equivalent, lots of people are using filters more restrictive than your Filtrete 300 or 600 filters. Maybe one day, you could include an updated furnace filter demonstration of the Filtrete 2200 and Kirkland 2200. You could even create a new video where you used all of your leftover filters until your manometer reading reached the point where you considered it was unacceptable such as 0.301 inches of water since you said normal filters should be within 0.10 to 0.30 inches of water. With the restrictive filters, it might be only a week before you decided the Kirkland 2200 filter was too plugged up! Who knew that Costco sold a filter that only lasts one week (per good restrictive air flow practice). Or you could test the filter longevity until it reached 0.50 inches of water in order to fit within equipment manufacturers' typical guidelines for pressure across the filter.
For anyone wanting to skip to specific filters. 4:15 Finally Untangles his leads for the meter 6:05 Slightly Used 300 Amazon Filter 6:54 New Fresh 300 Amazon Filter 9:00 Poly Glass Fiber Filter (if you can even call it a "filter") 11:00 600 Filtrete 12:00 1200 Filtrete 13:10 1500 Filtrete 15:00 1900 Filtrete 18:00 Demonstrating dirty filters from home with pets, high contaminant environment
Engineers designed their units to use a merv 1 filter. I used a merv 1 filter for my 25 year old Trane A/C and never replaced any parts on it. I clean my A frame every year and to replace my unit I’m getting quotes of $5,700+ dollars. Is it cheaper to use a high merv filter and replace my A/C every 10 years.
The 3M 1900 at 14:50 is the superstar filter. The key design feature is the number of pleats. It allows you to add MERV 13 filtration to your old HVAC without restricting airflow like most MERV 13 filters do. All allergy sufferers should be buying that filter. Just make sure you inspect it ever 4 weeks and plan to replace it every 8-12 weeks. Chances are the first time you run it in an old home, you will need to replace it after 2-4 weeks. After it has cleaned up your air by catching all the gunk in the first filter, the subsequent filters should last considerably longer.
thank you for sharing that! I have an old condo and the dust was crazzyyyy..i forgot to change the air filter..seems i need to do it once a month...didnt know it had to be cucled out...great tip!
Your results show that the Filtrete 1900 is the least restrictive, which is what Filtrete shows on their packaging (which is now required thanks to California law). Here's Filtrete's Data: MPR 600: 0.24" pressure drop. MPR 1000: 0.23" MPR 1200: 0.26" MPR 1500: 0.22" MPR 1900: 0.19" MPR 2200: 0.21"
Your demonstration is the best one I've seen. Excellent clarity and easy to follow. Great demonstration explaining the static air pressures and restrictive issues with higher rating filters.
MERV rating is only half of it. The other half is surface area/pleats of the filter. The 1900 has way more pleats, which explains the low pressure drop.
Liked your thorough run down! I wanted to correct one misconception. It's this! The less filter restriction the MORE load the motor experiences. Not the common misconception that more restriction causes the motor to work harder. This is because the actual work a motor does consists of moving the 'mass' of air. The MORE air a blower moves the harder it works. Hence, restricting the air flow unloads the motor. This can very easily be shown by using a watt meter to monitor the power the motor uses with various filter restrictions. It can also be seen in the HVAC world by blowers having minimum flow ratings on their information plates. That's a rating that states that a minimum restriction is required. This is because less restriction than that would result in the blower motor being overloaded. As an additional example of this most people when using a vacuum cleaner and blocking the nozzle hear the vacuum get louder and speeding up. This leads to the almost universal belief that the vacuum motor is being 'worked harder'. In reality it's completely the opposite occurring. The vacuum motor is completely unloaded (not moving any mass) when the nozzle is blocked and the result is the completely unloaded motor simply speeding up. Your furnace motor not working hard is still a problem because it means the heat exchanger is likely being overheated since not a lot of air is carrying the heat out of the exchanger and into your home's air.
It's seems to me that there should be an indicator on the furnace that lights up when the air flow drops below a certain level, ie: when you need to change your filter, if it can cause damage to your furnace.
That's what a manometer is for. Anyone can buy one and install them on their furnace like this guy did. Get a mechanical one -- no batteries, no electrical connection, etc.
That is a great point. We need to invent that and sell it to homeowners. By the time you read this, they probably will already be selling them. I like this idea.
I think there is an indicator on when to change your filter on some thermostats but they are based on hours of operation rather than air flow. I've had problems with my furnace not igniting but was pointed out that the filter was restricting air flow. It was a bit dirty but because it was a merv 11, it didn't take much to restrict air flow and the furnace is extra sensitive to this. Lesson learned and the idea was born.
@@JohnDoe-gv9jv Duh, lots of things are like this. HVAC companies will lose money if they do this, so they don't. Why do you think we say all the time: They don't make them like they used to. World revolves around dollar signs. AC units don't even last as long as they used to, despite improved technology.
Now, there you have it. Take the guess work out of when to replace the filter. No more reliance on a recommended interval (good guess) to protect your furnace. A permanently installed manometer would allow you to select a more protective filter and replace it when necessary, based real time time data. It could be blue tooth capable to alert your smart thermostat to shut down the system when damage is likely due to a dirty filter. Alerts through your smart phone, messages sent to Amazon to automatically order replacement filters, links to local air polution monitors recommending upgrading your filter to protect you from recent air quality threats, ie.local forest fires (Oregon). Dare I mention twiter?
I removed the grills and installed the fiber glass green filters at the intake location and inside the furnace. I used this filter since day one for 15 years and has no issue. If you change out the filter regularly, it will not make the coil inside the furnace dirty. My vent produce 50 degrees or lower temperature. About $3-3.25 for 4 at Walmart is excellent price for the green fiber glass filters. I recommend it highly because other so called premium filters restrict air flow, make the system works harder and caused even more electric bill.
I was wondering about this. I had two capacitors die over 5 years and the last time I was told that the furnce door safety switch had melted and had to be replaced for $150, I went and had a look, found the switch had been bypassed with a solid core piece of insulated wire and the switch had melted into nothing. I ordered a new switch for $15 on amazon. I knew nothing about HVAC but am pretty handy and did a lot of practical electrical stuff as a kid at school in the UK. I can see how both these problems might be caused by using those 1500 alergy filters reducing air flow, heat build up and making more work for the blower hence capacitors dying. Thanks for your video. I only noticed the air seemingly cleaner for a few days after a filter swap with those expensive filters. And they certainly didn't last the full recommended lifecycle. I guess I will be getting the cheaper bulk filters and changing more regularly now too. Thanks for the excellent video.
Great video. I check my filter once a month using a reminder on my calendar. I usually replace once a month it even if it’s little dirty. In rare situations, I’ll go 2 months. Filters never last what they claim on the label. Filter replacement is cheap maintenance.
What about electrostatic filters? We just had a geothermal unit put in that came installed with a pleated filter, but because it was a new install with higher air flow requirements, a lot of the prior dust/debris got pushed to the filter pretty early on and needed replacement within 2 months instead of the "rated" 6 months - to be expected for a new install I guess. But I've since ordered one of the same pleated filters for now, just to monitor initial energy usage with the unit to make sure it's running the way it should, but also got an electrostatic one that, according to the manufacturer, should last a lifetime, or 20+ years. Will put that in once I have an understanding of the power usage.
More pleats mean more surface area. More surface area in the filter media means more space for air to flow through. So it makes sense that the more densely pleated filter has higher flow.
Great video! A plugged filter from the previous owner made my rooftop TRANE HVAC stop working (even after a new filter was installed). I fixed it by going on the roof, taking the covers off and vacuuming it out (in December when all the HVAC companies were busy). I got a pair of washable electrostatic filter now (wash monthly, switch filter to allow long drying time) and it works great! Jay is a great tech and teacher! Thanks!
Hi. I'm posting here on your most recent video to say "Thank You!" ... you see we had been told by a local contractor that out old r22 condenser was shot and our entire system needed to be replaced. I came across your videos while doing my own research, and after watching about four or five of your videos on outside units, I was able to go outside end for about $20 in parts get my old one working again. In my case, I had a bad 5 minute delay board. I much prefer to bypass the board then spend 6500 on a new system. I know it's coming in the future, but I'd like to get as much life out of this old system as I can. Thank you so very much.
Old r22 systems lost efficiency with time. High Electricity Bill.So holding to one is asking for spending money in repairs no matter how many videos you watch. Newer 410 systems are much efficient and better on your light bill. Keep that in consideration.
Nice video, thank you. I have the same furnace branded as a Trane and started out with 1 inch filters, but eventually converted to a 5 inch filter. Just as an FYI, the total static pressure across the entire furnace/AC coil system is specified not exceed .5 inches water column. Most manufactures will spec .5. My furnace came with a nylon mesh screen, but I always used the 1 inch filters from day one. When I started seeing the filters being sucked toward the blower motor as shown in your video, I realized my static pressures were very high just as you demonstrated. So I converted the furnace over to a 5 inch, Merv 16, charcoal impregnated filter (Merv 11 filters were also available in the 5 inch size). I found that I can actually leave the filter in for a full year. Here are the numbers that I recorded: on low heat fan, the brand new filter showed .20 inches, after a year, that rose to .24. On the AC blower speed, which would be higher, I started at .24 inches and rose to .28 inches one year later.
The more pleats the filter has, the less restriction. Thats because there is more filtration area. That applies to old filters as well because the surface area is bigger. If you look at the 1900 vs the 300, there are more pleats on the 1900. So all things being equal the 1900 blocks more particles, but offset the restriction by having more filtration area. That's why they are more expensive, but the lag time for changing them does not require more frequent changes because of more filtration area.
Thank you for this comment, as I replaced and FPR9 filter which was dirty, with and FPR7 and I could tell the A/C was struggling more which made no sense to me. Then I read your comment about the pleats. The FPR9 filter which was Honeywell had 28 visible pleats and the FPR7 filter which was generic brand only 23 pleats. I'm going to get a better brand now. You get what you pay for, lesson learned..
Great video and very helpful information. Thank you! One of the most insightful furnace filter videos I have found so far. I'm surprised that the "candle" filters were more clogged than the "pet" filter.
The white dust on your filter can be caused by an "ultrasonic" humidifier, it's most likely minerals(calcium) in your water. You may try moving the humidifier further from a return, or try using distilled water. Informative video. Thanks
Love the video with real world information on why you should change your filter regularly. Like putting oil in your car! You can be lazy on a lot of preventive maintenance. Your filter should not be one of them.
"furnace whistling" is from all the dirty air bypassing the filter... so a plitted 300 filter actually filter more because it keeps the bypass minimal yet still filter well unlike the see through green fibers.
So this is confusing. The more expensive filters are supposed to be too restrictive. But, the filterite 600 had worse airflow than the expensive one. Yet, fiberglass let in too much debris. I’m very confused on what to buy.
Same 😂 I feel like the answer is like most things, which is to find something right in the middle in terms of filtration and restriction, so that there’s both solid air flow but also blocking the air pollutants 🤷🏻♂️
have been using the 1200 to 1500 filter changed every about every 2 months and have not been having any issues also wanted to note that have not been sick as much either and have pets as well so need that extra protection
Thank you! Ive been looking for this exact information for a long time! My tech had me set a google calendar reminder to change my filter every 2 weeks in the hottest part of summer and coldest part of winter to keep the house the most comfortable and the furnace happy. I also use the 3M 300 Basic, or equivalent. All the manufacturers should put their pressure drop numbers right on the packaging! New and used, like dump 1 cup of flour in front of it to simulate use.
I’d like to point out that the unit motor does not over-work as you mentioned with a dirty filter in fact the more the filter is clogged the less the motor works. This can be easily checked by amperage draw of motor which is another way of checking for a dirty filter that has to be replaced. I do like your videos 👍
I smacked a failing gas valve once and as far as I know, the thing is still working. The pressure switch is also a great component to "snack into operation". I explained the reasoning for the Fonzorelli treatment and told them I smacked it in a way that would make it last a while longer. They opted to leave the same valve in and pay my hourly rate. They needed heat and I gave it to them instantly without warranty. Most people have me go ahead and order them a new replacement, but if it's someone just trying to sell a house....
The smacking treatment does prove very effective at times! :) I've had it work many times for me before. A stuck fan relay on a control board can be fixed that way too heh. Thank you for sharing!
I use the $1 merv filter and change out every month and clean my A frame every year. My 25 year old Trane blows strong and still has the original parts. Engineers designed my unit with a merv 1. I’ve been quoted $5,700+ to replace my A/C but as long as it does it’s job I’m fine. I’m hoping to get 30 years from my A/C.
Thanks for your video. I believe you meant to say a dirty filter will lower the amps on a standard centrifugal PSC blower motor as it actually is working less hard. Now electronic ECM motors and their kind may work harder. However as you stated the system suffers due to less air moving across heat exchanger or coil causing high temps or icing.
1:13 The 1500 filter you tested is 16X24X1. The rest are 16X25X1. So you could have had leaks on that one filter. Haven't checked the rest of the comments to see if anyone else noticed that...
Filtrete makes a 2800 filter. When using higher rated filters, they have to be changed more frequently. Using PuraClean filter spray can enhance a filters' ability to capture dust as it apparently is a tacifier and imparts a static charge.
Project Farm did a similar video. His results suggested that higher mpr/merv filters static pressure was higher initially but did not increase as much for a given load of dirt. The reason being that more pleats means more surface area which means less debris were square inch. Someone needs to do more definitive testing testing. In the meantime, it seems clear furnace filters are like engine oil.... change them frequently...dont wait 60-90 days!
I agree 100% I have a house full of allergy sufferers, including myself so I can live with the little restriction, much cleaner air. Dust is not welcomed in my house, I change them every month like you mentioned.
I use to buy the expensive filers and found out most were awful because of restriction and the Flanders EZ Flow will catch dust very efficiently and gets better as it catches more dust
I switched to the green filters years ago. The house cools faster and I save on electricity. I like your videos. You’re helping me maintain my own a/c, because you can get ripped off real bad down here in Florida...
I am curious what you think about the washable stuff out there. K and N now has a home air filter that they state is MERV 11 and is washable. They make not mention of the static drop but do brag about the flow rate. Great video as usual!
AWSOME video. Did you know K&N Car Air Filter maker made a washable HVAC MERV 11 filter too? I just found out. I was wondering if you could do a comparison test as brand new vs. after 3 months of use & after it has been washed. To see if the air flow has dramatically changed. What do you think?👍
I keep coming back to this video since getting a pressure meter. I started weekly measurements to get a graph going on how often it reaches my set threshold before changing it.
This was such an informative video on understanding filters. I have struggled with finding the best filters to keep the efficiency high but our air "cleaner" since we also have 2 cats... we can also fit the wider filters in our system which are supposed to have better airflow so I would love to see how 4" vs 1" compare right off the bat but also just how long they last since the cost is significantly higher and after seeing this I feel like those should still be switched every 2-3 months, not the 6+ like they may advertise. I also just replaced a filter that I thought was clean but in fact looked like your dirty white one when I compared it to a fresh filter. At least I know that means these are in fact filtering out particles.
I enjoy all your videos - very informative. As a side note, I have used a fiberglass filter (the same one) for 45 years in Texas. I usually wash it twice per season. Never had ‘A’ coil checked. When first turn on a/c in spring, aim infra-red thermometer at vent to check if temperature same as previous year. Most recent A/C at least 6 yrs old. Knock on wood :-)
The 3m 1900 rating starts out at the Lowest static drop at its highest rated CFM than their lower or higher rate MPR models. And since it will have a high dirt capture rate , the static drop will increase fast depending on the interior condition such as carpet, pets, etc. As I tell my customers in Northern California area, they have a choice, if they want better cleaning of their circulated air, use the higher MPR (Merv) rated filters, but do understand that it will need to be changed about once a month, and in many cases the blower motor will be running slightly harder and may draw slightly more power. The plus is that the insides of the furnace will stay cleaner or not get as dirty as fast as using the basic fiberglass filter. I left out a lot of details , but my home system return air supply is oversized so that it can use the 2800 or higher 3 M Filtrete filter mainly to keep the furnace and supply ducting as clean as possible for as long as possible so me being as lazy as I am don't have to work so hard cleaning the ducting and furnace especially the blower wheel because the furnace is in the attic and I am not as slim as I was in my younger days. With all the recent California fires, nearly all my customers have requested the highest rate MPR models that are available for their systems, the feedback has been that they do notice an inside air improvement, albeit subjective of course.
I was very interested to see results, however right up front I noticed you placed the static pressure tubes incorrectly. Look like you have them pointed down. That puts the holes in the tube normal to the flow which means you're reading total pressure not static pressure. For static pressure you should place the probes parallel to flow. The difference will be that the total pressure includes the velocity pressure component which will vary depending on pressure drop. That throws off your results. Otherwise it would have been a great test. Hope you try it again sometime with the correct orientation of the tubes.
I have a very similar furnace in my house and I do run the high end. I think it was 1800 filtrate model and I do have to change my filters about every 4 to 6 weeks. They start off white and they come out to Grey. I have a dog. If you start to see your filter, bow change it you’re hurting your compressor or your fan blower. Great way to cause a coolant leak and if you have an old filter like mine are R22 is rare and expensive. Just ask my neighbor, who forgot to change her filter for two years her bill all I have to say ouch.
Thanks for this video. Perfect timing. I've been using the premium filters until this past cold spell of 2019. My furnace was constantly running but eventually the fan was just going with no heat coming out of the vents. Turns out the filter was caved in. I've replace with a more middle of the road filter and will see how it works out.
@@thegr8rambino I've switched to just the basic blue filters, similar to the green ones shown in the video. I noticed that even with the middle of the road filters, they still clogged in a pretty short time. When I changed them, they were caved in just like his. The only difference now is that I change the cheaper ones much more often considering they are pretty cheap. I did not change the others ones as often because they were more expensive and they were "supposed" to last longer without getting clogged. That wasn't the case for me.
Great job providing readings on various filters!!! BUT.. There is absolutely no way a dirty filter is worse than plywood. It amazes me the wild false clams that are made by UA-camrs.
Nice video. I'm thinking the pressure drop is a function of both the MPR rating and the filter surface area. Since the filters increase in pleats as they increase in MPR, it could explain the lower pressure drop with the 1200 and 1900. That said, it seems like a filter having both an MPR of 300 and a lot of pleats would really be good.
This is interesting .. I just had new furnace installed a few days ago, it was expensive so I want to let it breathe and at same time protect it as best I can.
I put a GeneralAire G99 air filter gage on my unit and it gives a visual indication of the air pressure difference so you can know when to change the filter. This saves having to open up and visually check the filter. Although not as cool as the manometer used in the video, it is cheap.
I use a honeywell F50 HV air cleaner it has a SP of .1 at 1500 CFM 3 ton and never gets worse then that even when cells need to be cleaned in dishwasher. If you don't use that type get a filter housing for a 4 inch pleated. High static pressure will cost you money big time especially on AC.
Hi J Thumbs up for your video content. When using inexpensive filters as I do spray intake side of filter with hair spray it increases the amount of dust particles , dander and crap the filter catches. You’re videos rock
Increasing pleats both increases airflow *and* filtration (because face velocity is lower the shaper the angle of the pleat). This is why the high rating filters sometimes rate better than the next step down. Some manufacturers just use more restrictive material though. It's very important to use one by a legit manufacturer like 3M or Honeywell. Also, a clogged filter of any rating will eventually get to 1+. More pleats will last longer, but they filter smaller particles so for the same filter media the higher filtration one should last longer (i.e 600 last longer than 300, 1900 longer than 1500)
Thanks. I have pretty severe allergies so I needed something with a high rating, but was worry about airflow. I will give 1900 a try. 3M said they can last 3 months but I am not sure if it can last that long.
it's getting coldrer in CA, so checking out the filter thing. This is my first year to take care my 1 year old furnace. so glad that I bought the right cheap filter, and I will change them often if I use it everyday.
Here's a cheat that really works...have done this for many years...I use cheap fiberglass hardware store filters, the kind in a 3 pack for $5.....I lightly spray them with WD-40 then lay them out in the sun to let the solvent evaporate and odor to dissipate. They collect much more dust so I change them frequently but the furnace fan, motor and aircon evaporator coil remain spotless.
I used to work on a crew that cut rumble strips. The asphalt dust would plug up the radiators of all the equipment in about a month. So used polyester pillow fill to cover the radiators and spray them with aerosol spray starch. Worked great. You could even reverse the matting to use both sides. Spray starch is preferred because any that got on the radiator would cook off and not build up. WD-40 is a good idea!
Great video! I guess it's a trade-off, how much dust you can tolerate in your house vs how much strain you want put on your furnace and A/C systems. Newer systems should be ok with a higher MERV filter but older systems may need a lower MERV especially if you're trying to nurse it along for a few more years. Also a thicker filter like a 5 inch has more total surface area and hence could have a higher number of pleats and MERV rating without restricting the airflow as much as a thinner 1 inch filter if it will fit in your filter slot.
Interesting! Just saw this on the YT “reading list”. The installers push those “ thick” filters when they try to upsell. I said fine, but show me that you can keep below the max static pressure spec for the furnace and for how long. That shut them up. I use the Filtrete 1085 s, or equivalents, and change them out every six weeks. My A coil is clean after 8 years. The filter manufacturers don’t make it easy to compare efficiency though. Everybody has a different system and , I suspect , different processes to cost the pleats.
We use the 3M 2200 filters from Costco, usually pick up a 3 pack or 2 when they go on sale so they end up costing around 12 bucks each. The pleats are very dense, so they shouldn't be that restrictive when they're new similar to that 1900 filter. Just change them out when I hear them start to whistle, roughly 1-3 months depending on how much the HVAC system is being used. One benefit of use a high MERV filter is that the evaporator fins of the AC system stay cleaner and require cleaning less often. Though I am thinking of transitioning to a less restrictive filter for the HVAC and using a secondary filter system that runs 24/7 to keep the air in the house cleaner. Probably something like a Corsi Rosenthal box because I'm a bit of a cheapskate.
I've use Filtrete 1500 for 26 years, my electric furnace is working just fine, but I check and if necessary change the filter monthly. I hold the filter up to sunlight. If light streams through, so will air. Also if the filter is starting to bulge towards the furnace, it's time to change.
I am need of some advice here. I bought my house 4 yrs. ago w/ knowledge that the HVAC system that includes an oil furnace needs replacing. There was duct tape all around where to coolant pipes go in the front of the panel in the basement utility room. 1st summer the A/C was comfy. It turned on and off and kept the house 73F. That winter the heat pump didn't heat so it defaulted to the auxiliary mode i.e.furnace burning heating oil. I am outside Montreal and went through about 3/4 tank of oil and was happy. The following summer my a/c worked but froze up inside the utility room and then when it stopped water would run as ice melted along the back wall, I'm guessing it has froze up inside the unit. I put down a few of those super absorbest rags and squeezed them out a lot. A lot of stuff happened to me here and I am about to sell my house. I turned on the a/c and it's blows warm air. I washed the heat pump last fall. It runs and blows air out the top and sucks air in all around it. I just checked. I don't want to spend a lot and at the same time it's 83F inside. I cleaned all the air vents. Also last year my a/c would reduce the humidity and I could see the condensation dripping into the ground drain inside the utility room. I am about to call a technicians but am worried about being taken to the cleaners. I just need to have some coolness until Sept. Any advice would be VERY much appreciated. I used to live in Montreal in a 103 year old Victorian and had thick walls and hot water heaters. This house is modern but very hot. BTW my furnace takes the prefurnace and post furnace Honeywell filters. The post one are green 16 x 12. (2) The hot air blew so easily when the furnace was running so why is there only warm air running. Coolant leak? Thanks and keep posting your great videos. I am learning a lot. I don't trust the local techs. I saw how the local roofers took the old man next door to the cleaners twice and his roof is missing flashing on my side. Nice WORK! I'll have to get someone in from Montreal. Damn crooks here. Thanks!
We have to have a combination of free flowing and still have effective cleaning, seems to be a balance of the two that is needed. The better the cleaning, the more restrictive the filter. I use a Merv 3 pleated and it seems ok, in my dusty climate. I may try a fiberglass next time, I didn't know that they were so much less restrictive. I really enjoyed the test.
The MPR 1900 he tested here has a MERV 13 rating according the manufacturer, 3M/Filtrete, and there's no need for a higher MERV rating as that's already basically HEPA quality.
@@themikeroberts Well considering a HEPA filter has a minimum MERV 17 rating I would have to disagree on all points. There is always a reason to use a specific rated filter but that also comes with other issues which is why I made my original comment.
I just installed a new F/A system and all new ducting/flex, etc ... and ran it a few seconds a few times without a filter to make sure my intake/output was balanced .... having 2 big hairy dogs I installed Merv2 (green glass) at the returns to catch the big stuff (sprayed with filter charger) and then a Merv 6 at the furnace ... it worked well, good flow/balance .... (and I'm a fanatic about changing filters once a month to keep unit from working too hard, buy in bulk from amazon, cheap insurance in my book as an experienced builder) ..... I accidentally ordered 6 Merv 11's mid heating season ... and noticed immediately the air flow was restricted, and really restricted in a short time 2 weeks or so .... so it's always a balancing act ..... too bad manufactures don't test and put the new filter differential number on their products .... although I do have a Manometer and probes to test as you did here .... anyway, very informative, i always learn, or relearn things when I watch one of your video's ... good info without loosing the DYI person by getting to mysterious or technical .... I have another tip if you buy in bulk packages, besides using a spray on charger (available on amazon) store your filters in a warm/dry place ... I'm in eastern PA right on the Delaware in a 150 year old house .... dampness and mold are always a problem here .... bulk filters without plastic wrap in a cardboard box got moldy quickly ... so I store upstairs in a big contractors box to keep them clean and mold free .... late Aug, and I tossed the last few Merv 11's so need to reorder some Merv 6's on amazon when I get off here .... thanks for the vid, I've been subbed for a while
A+ video ! Just caught this which triggered a question - howz bout the 'electronic' filter setups ... just how do they compare in all aspects ??? I run 2 furnaces here - both 92 efficiency types - one setup with a nice April-aire deal which do require changing the filters out (pleat-style) - the other being a quite the more expensive electronic deal that only requires cleaning of the contained twin elements & their 2 respective screens. SO just how they compare as for restrictions, dust, dander, etc. - seems to b quite an interesting topic thou I havent scrolled comments nor all over Utuber for similar vids at this time.
If you have matching filters I would suggest weight them both in seeing what the difference is. If you only have 1 lb difference or less and it becomes very restrictive versus a 5-in pleated with 1 lb and it's less restrictive than we know that the 5-in is the better value, and won't make your motor work as hard
I'm sure that piece of plywood created a very poor seal with the furnace frame and allowed a huge amount of bypass. That explains why it appeared to be better with regard to flow rate compared to actual filters. To be honest, observing how easily some of the filters slid into the furnace indicates that a good number of them established a poor seal with the furnace frame and make the results of your experiment somewhat suspect.
People don't realize when they get an expensive filter, you don't get as much air coming out of your vents and it makes it harder for the air to get to the second floor. I have had it happen where people complain the second floor is cold and just getting a less restrictive filter solved that problem.
Between the 600 and 1200 filters, you are witnessing filter construction coming to bear. The pleats on the 600 are allowed to flop over, in other words, they are not braced like the 1200 filters. ( notice the difference in filter construction). The 1200 is supported and held in place more rigidly. This creates a noticeable difference in airflow..
Yeah.. Sorry, I didn't have an example of a very dirty premium filter. I wish I would have kept some of those extreme examples from previous jobs. It would have been interesting to see how big or small the pressure difference would have really been.
Another great video! I hope you're loving Hawaii, just saw your latest update. I just replaced my blower motor and serviced my AC system using your channel! Thanks a ton.
I have owned my current house for 11 years, and a good-quality Trane air conditioner was put in two years before I moved in. I have almost always used the Filtrete 1900, except for a few years after Home Depot stopped carrying them and switched to Honeywell, of which I used the MERV 13 Premium version, that were not any cheaper than the Filtrete 1900. I don't know if they were as effective, but they had much wider pleats and were much flimsier, and would bow inwards under the negative pressure of the air conditioning unit, although the frame still provided a seal. When I discovered the Filtrete were being sold on Amazon I resumed using the 1900 version in 2017. At first in this house, I would change them after a month, as recommended by the air conditioning service people, but then I went to a month and a half, then two months, and for the last year or two have been leaving them in for three months. After three months they do get a light gray color (I accidentally left one in for close to six months one time when I was having eye problems). I can't tell if it is putting a strain on the air conditioning unit or not, but I never had to service the motor, and never had to clean the coils and this air conditioner was unit was installed in 2007. When I moved in I had the air ducts enlaged, especially to the front bedroom/office and had another vent put in that room near the original one, as it wasn't getting as cool as the other rooms. (This current air conditioner is also a larger size unit than it replaced, before I moved in, I believe). But I don't burn candles or even grill things in the kitchen--I had a cat in the house for the first six years but that didn't seem to affect the filters much--I don't have rugs. I noticed that dust does still accumulate in the living and dining room areas and the kitchen and actual bedroom, but hardly at all, comparatively, in two other rooms, the front bedroom set up as an office but not used much, and the small middle bedroom, which is used as a library, where the door is kept shut for the library and almost shut except for about 2 inches, for the front bedroom/office which is at the end of a short hallway. So unless the extra dust comes in during the brief times the front and back doors are open I'm not sure why it is dustier in the living areas, with just one person in the house, unless it comes from a couch or more leaking of air from of the windows or sliding glass doors in those areas. PS I just reordered six of the Filtrete 1900 filters from Amazon, but I didn't discover until they were delivered in a day or two, but somehow the item was switched in my cart when I placed the order to the wrong size, so I have to return them for refund, and the correct size says it will ship in 1 to 2 months. Looking at the 3M website it says no distributor available at this time. I wonder if they are short supply because they had to repurpose the 1900 spec material for respirators a year ago.
I just saw the no distributor available at this time on their website but the 1900 is available at Lowes. Currently, if you buy 4+, they are $14.38 each. Glad to hear that you've had a good experience with them.
@@chevelleflorida Oh, I thought you meant it was not available on Amazon, you meant the Home Depot. Although I have four filters left and one in use with a couple months remaining, I ordered six more from Amazon in case they becomes scarce. The dimensions of mine are probably not as common as some other sizes. They are something like $116 for 6, $110 if you subscribe for delivery, on Amazon. I looked on the Lowe's website and they do not have the 1900 or anything about 1500 MERV in my size filter.
I am using a MERV13 16x24x1" during and I started getting air filtration warnings (Rheem EcoNet smart thermostat on an HVAC system, installed in May, 2020 with duct clean). I expected the first few to be dirty during the summer cooling. When heating started, the MERV13 was a little too restrictive so I went to a MERV8 after Xmas. 1st filter warning warning was Jan 20 EcoNet warns if filtration is blocking and issues a variety of warnings based on filtration restrictions. Replaced MERV8 filter. How often is perhaps how long we stay home. During Covid19, we were always home daily. Feb 8 through 15 was a week of sub zero temps so the furnace ran almost continuiously. Feb 20, warnings popped up on EcoNet thermostat. Changed filter, warnings calmed down. I think that once we get back to "normal", filter change may be less.
As other people have commented, why don't furnace manufacturers monitor this, even with a built-in manometer, or simply just monitor the current draw for the blower, I would expect the current draw to increase if the air flow is restricted. Or, maybe, if the blower fan speeds up because of less air it may use less current. More research required!
Glad you liked it, thank you! About the sizing.. Thank you for the video suggestion but I have never been an installer, I only do service. So I don't think I would be a good candidate to make a video like that.
Thanks for the great video as always! Question about thickness of the filter: is a 5-inch filter better option than a 1-inch filter? Replacing the system and have a choice now.
@@roksonak The reasons are mainly practical. They cost less and they do about as good of a job as the 4 inch ones. 1 inch filters are easier to find in any store as well. If you really want to improve air quality then an electronic air filter would be a better option.
We’re in the process of getting a new heat pump system, and they recommend an AprilAire filter system. Are they really better of should we just go with the cheap ones that you change every 30 days?
I would just go with the cheap ones that you change every month or two. Less headaches and expenses. Buy a box of filters and you're good to go for a year or two.
NaturalAire is a good brand from American Air Filters (AAF Flanders) for pleated. This is the same manufacturer who makes the EZ Flow Fiberglass one in this video.
As I understand the furnace filter is only designed to keep dust away from the motor ductwork?? That said, Now I use a double filter regular inexpensive Merv 8 filter and a permanent washable filter on top. Am I getting better filtration?
One thing pointed out - These filters are produced to protect your furnace equipment - not your Family Member’s breathing conditions. Purchase a couple of portable HEPA filter (air filtering )machines (AirDoctor) & place them in the living room & bedroom. Don’t rely on a furnace filter to aid in your family’s breathing health.
Awesome video! Love all the info. I guess expensive isn't always better. IDK what the FPM rating is but the only one home depot sells in my size Rheam cheap pleated filter 3 for $10 seams to be the way to go!
WOOD 5000!!!! HILARIOUS brother 🤣 😂 😆
Lol glad you liked it man! 😄😄
@@WordofAdviceTV ya where do I buy the wood 5000 at 16x25x1? my high limit switch needs some exercise - wouldn't want it to get fat.
@@WordofAdviceTV People buy at Costco with confidence. Since Costco has just the 3M Filtrete 2200 as well as their own Kirkland Signature 2200 equivalent, lots of people are using filters more restrictive than your Filtrete 300 or 600 filters. Maybe one day, you could include an updated furnace filter demonstration of the Filtrete 2200 and Kirkland 2200.
You could even create a new video where you used all of your leftover filters until your manometer reading reached the point where you considered it was unacceptable such as 0.301 inches of water since you said normal filters should be within 0.10 to 0.30 inches of water. With the restrictive filters, it might be only a week before you decided the Kirkland 2200 filter was too plugged up! Who knew that Costco sold a filter that only lasts one week (per good restrictive air flow practice). Or you could test the filter longevity until it reached 0.50 inches of water in order to fit within equipment manufacturers' typical guidelines for pressure across the filter.
For anyone wanting to skip to specific filters.
4:15 Finally Untangles his leads for the meter
6:05 Slightly Used 300 Amazon Filter
6:54 New Fresh 300 Amazon Filter
9:00 Poly Glass Fiber Filter (if you can even call it a "filter")
11:00 600 Filtrete
12:00 1200 Filtrete
13:10 1500 Filtrete
15:00 1900 Filtrete
18:00 Demonstrating dirty filters from home with pets, high contaminant environment
Thank you
Not all hero's wear a cape 👍
Engineers designed their units to use a merv 1 filter. I used a merv 1 filter for my 25 year old Trane A/C and never replaced any parts on it. I clean my A frame every year and to replace my unit I’m getting quotes of $5,700+ dollars. Is it cheaper to use a high merv filter and replace my A/C every 10 years.
The 3M 1900 at 14:50 is the superstar filter. The key design feature is the number of pleats. It allows you to add MERV 13 filtration to your old HVAC without restricting airflow like most MERV 13 filters do. All allergy sufferers should be buying that filter. Just make sure you inspect it ever 4 weeks and plan to replace it every 8-12 weeks. Chances are the first time you run it in an old home, you will need to replace it after 2-4 weeks. After it has cleaned up your air by catching all the gunk in the first filter, the subsequent filters should last considerably longer.
thank you for sharing that! I have an old condo and the dust was crazzyyyy..i forgot to change the air filter..seems i need to do it once a month...didnt know it had to be cucled out...great tip!
Your results show that the Filtrete 1900 is the least restrictive, which is what Filtrete shows on their packaging (which is now required thanks to California law).
Here's Filtrete's Data:
MPR 600: 0.24" pressure drop.
MPR 1000: 0.23"
MPR 1200: 0.26"
MPR 1500: 0.22"
MPR 1900: 0.19"
MPR 2200: 0.21"
Your demonstration is the best one I've seen. Excellent clarity and easy to follow. Great demonstration explaining the static air pressures and restrictive issues with higher rating filters.
MERV rating is only half of it. The other half is surface area/pleats of the filter. The 1900 has way more pleats, which explains the low pressure drop.
Liked your thorough run down!
I wanted to correct one misconception. It's this! The less filter restriction the MORE load the motor experiences. Not the common misconception that more restriction causes the motor to work harder. This is because the actual work a motor does consists of moving the 'mass' of air. The MORE air a blower moves the harder it works. Hence, restricting the air flow unloads the motor. This can very easily be shown by using a watt meter to monitor the power the motor uses with various filter restrictions.
It can also be seen in the HVAC world by blowers having minimum flow ratings on their information plates. That's a rating that states that a minimum restriction is required. This is because less restriction than that would result in the blower motor being overloaded.
As an additional example of this most people when using a vacuum cleaner and blocking the nozzle hear the vacuum get louder and speeding up. This leads to the almost universal belief that the vacuum motor is being 'worked harder'. In reality it's completely the opposite occurring. The vacuum motor is completely unloaded (not moving any mass) when the nozzle is blocked and the result is the completely unloaded motor simply speeding up.
Your furnace motor not working hard is still a problem because it means the heat exchanger is likely being overheated since not a lot of air is carrying the heat out of the exchanger and into your home's air.
Thanks for this explanation.
It's seems to me that there should be an indicator on the furnace that lights up when the air flow drops below a certain level, ie: when you need to change your filter, if it can cause damage to your furnace.
That's what a manometer is for. Anyone can buy one and install them on their furnace like this guy did. Get a mechanical one -- no batteries, no electrical connection, etc.
That is a great point. We need to invent that and sell it to homeowners. By the time you read this, they probably will already be selling them. I like this idea.
I think there is an indicator on when to change your filter on some thermostats but they are based on hours of operation rather than air flow.
I've had problems with my furnace not igniting but was pointed out that the filter was restricting air flow. It was a bit dirty but because it was a merv 11, it didn't take much to restrict air flow and the furnace is extra sensitive to this. Lesson learned and the idea was born.
@@JohnDoe-gv9jv Duh, lots of things are like this. HVAC companies will lose money if they do this, so they don't. Why do you think we say all the time: They don't make them like they used to. World revolves around dollar signs. AC units don't even last as long as they used to, despite improved technology.
Now, there you have it. Take the guess work out of when to replace the filter. No more reliance on a recommended interval (good guess) to protect your furnace. A permanently installed manometer would allow you to select a more protective filter and replace it when necessary, based real time time data. It could be blue tooth capable to alert your smart thermostat to shut down the system when damage is likely due to a dirty filter. Alerts through your smart phone, messages sent to Amazon to automatically order replacement filters, links to local air polution monitors recommending upgrading your filter to protect you from recent air quality threats, ie.local forest fires (Oregon). Dare I mention twiter?
I removed the grills and installed the fiber glass green filters at the intake location and inside the furnace. I used this filter since day one for 15 years and has no issue. If you change out the filter regularly, it will not make the coil inside the furnace dirty. My vent produce 50 degrees or lower temperature. About $3-3.25 for 4 at Walmart is excellent price for the green fiber glass filters. I recommend it highly because other so called premium filters restrict air flow, make the system works harder and caused even more electric bill.
I was wondering about this. I had two capacitors die over 5 years and the last time I was told that the furnce door safety switch had melted and had to be replaced for $150, I went and had a look, found the switch had been bypassed with a solid core piece of insulated wire and the switch had melted into nothing. I ordered a new switch for $15 on amazon.
I knew nothing about HVAC but am pretty handy and did a lot of practical electrical stuff as a kid at school in the UK. I can see how both these problems might be caused by using those 1500 alergy filters reducing air flow, heat build up and making more work for the blower hence capacitors dying.
Thanks for your video. I only noticed the air seemingly cleaner for a few days after a filter swap with those expensive filters. And they certainly didn't last the full recommended lifecycle. I guess I will be getting the cheaper bulk filters and changing more regularly now too.
Thanks for the excellent video.
Great video. I check my filter once a month using a reminder on my calendar. I usually replace once a month it even if it’s little dirty. In rare situations, I’ll go 2 months. Filters never last what they claim on the label. Filter replacement is cheap maintenance.
What about electrostatic filters? We just had a geothermal unit put in that came installed with a pleated filter, but because it was a new install with higher air flow requirements, a lot of the prior dust/debris got pushed to the filter pretty early on and needed replacement within 2 months instead of the "rated" 6 months - to be expected for a new install I guess.
But I've since ordered one of the same pleated filters for now, just to monitor initial energy usage with the unit to make sure it's running the way it should, but also got an electrostatic one that, according to the manufacturer, should last a lifetime, or 20+ years. Will put that in once I have an understanding of the power usage.
More pleats mean more surface area. More surface area in the filter media means more space for air to flow through. So it makes sense that the more densely pleated filter has higher flow.
Uh, no. The cross section area of air flow is the size of the filter.
Great video! A plugged filter from the previous owner made my rooftop TRANE HVAC stop working (even after a new filter was installed). I fixed it by going on the roof, taking the covers off and vacuuming it out (in December when all the HVAC companies were busy). I got a pair of washable electrostatic filter now (wash monthly, switch filter to allow long drying time) and it works great! Jay is a great tech and teacher! Thanks!
Hi. I'm posting here on your most recent video to say "Thank You!" ... you see we had been told by a local contractor that out old r22 condenser was shot and our entire system needed to be replaced. I came across your videos while doing my own research, and after watching about four or five of your videos on outside units, I was able to go outside end for about $20 in parts get my old one working again. In my case, I had a bad 5 minute delay board. I much prefer to bypass the board then spend 6500 on a new system. I know it's coming in the future, but I'd like to get as much life out of this old system as I can. Thank you so very much.
Old r22 systems lost efficiency with time. High Electricity Bill.So holding to one is asking for spending money in repairs no matter how many videos you watch. Newer 410 systems are much efficient and better on your light bill. Keep that in consideration.
Star saving, is coming soon
Nice video, thank you. I have the same furnace branded as a Trane and started out with 1 inch filters, but eventually converted to a 5 inch filter. Just as an FYI, the total static pressure across the entire furnace/AC coil system is specified not exceed .5 inches water column. Most manufactures will spec .5. My furnace came with a nylon mesh screen, but I always used the 1 inch filters from day one. When I started seeing the filters being sucked toward the blower motor as shown in your video, I realized my static pressures were very high just as you demonstrated. So I converted the furnace over to a 5 inch, Merv 16, charcoal impregnated filter (Merv 11 filters were also available in the 5 inch size). I found that I can actually leave the filter in for a full year. Here are the numbers that I recorded: on low heat fan, the brand new filter showed .20 inches, after a year, that rose to .24. On the AC blower speed, which would be higher, I started at .24 inches and rose to .28 inches one year later.
The more pleats the filter has, the less restriction. Thats because there is more filtration area. That applies to old filters as well because the surface area is bigger. If you look at the 1900 vs the 300, there are more pleats on the 1900. So all things being equal the 1900 blocks more particles, but offset the restriction by having more filtration area. That's why they are more expensive, but the lag time for changing them does not require more frequent changes because of more filtration area.
Thank you for this comment, as I replaced and FPR9 filter which was dirty, with and FPR7 and I could tell the A/C was struggling more which made no sense to me. Then I read your comment about the pleats. The FPR9 filter which was Honeywell had 28 visible pleats and the FPR7 filter which was generic brand only 23 pleats. I'm going to get a better brand now. You get what you pay for, lesson learned..
The plywood in the return blew my mind. Thanks for the video! Awesome demo.
Great video and very helpful information. Thank you! One of the most insightful furnace filter videos I have found so far. I'm surprised that the "candle" filters were more clogged than the "pet" filter.
The white dust on your filter can be caused by an "ultrasonic" humidifier, it's most likely minerals(calcium) in your water. You may try moving the humidifier further from a return, or try using distilled water. Informative video. Thanks
This is the best, and the most scientific, review on the internet
Love the video with real world information on why you should change your filter regularly.
Like putting oil in your car!
You can be lazy on a lot of preventive maintenance. Your filter should not be one of them.
"furnace whistling" is from all the dirty air bypassing the filter... so a plitted 300 filter actually filter more because it keeps the bypass minimal yet still filter well unlike the see through green fibers.
So this is confusing. The more expensive filters are supposed to be too restrictive. But, the filterite 600 had worse airflow than the expensive one. Yet, fiberglass let in too much debris. I’m very confused on what to buy.
On the back of Filtrete filter it has flow rates. Merv 8 had less flow than all the other higher Merv filters.
@@ZomBeatBrainZ if they made a merv 8 with more pleats it would have better airflow
Same 😂 I feel like the answer is like most things, which is to find something right in the middle in terms of filtration and restriction, so that there’s both solid air flow but also blocking the air pollutants 🤷🏻♂️
@@Nick-Salv3m 1900 is the best, more airflow and filtrates more. Best of both worlds, you just need to be on top of changing them out more often
Gad! THE reason for the pleats is to increase the effective filter area. That's why an effective filter doesn't necessarily have a hugh pressure drop.
have been using the 1200 to 1500 filter changed every about every 2 months and have not been having any issues also wanted to note that have not been sick as much either and have pets as well so need that extra protection
Thank you! Ive been looking for this exact information for a long time! My tech had me set a google calendar reminder to change my filter every 2 weeks in the hottest part of summer and coldest part of winter to keep the house the most comfortable and the furnace happy. I also use the 3M 300 Basic, or equivalent. All the manufacturers should put their pressure drop numbers right on the packaging! New and used, like dump 1 cup of flour in front of it to simulate use.
I’d like to point out that the unit motor does not over-work as you mentioned with a dirty filter in fact the more the filter is clogged the less the motor works. This can be easily checked by amperage draw of motor which is another way of checking for a dirty filter that has to be replaced. I do like your videos 👍
Do you check the blower motor with the door closed or open? If open then off course it will run lower.
I smacked a failing gas valve once and as far as I know, the thing is still working. The pressure switch is also a great component to "snack into operation". I explained the reasoning for the Fonzorelli treatment and told them I smacked it in a way that would make it last a while longer. They opted to leave the same valve in and pay my hourly rate. They needed heat and I gave it to them instantly without warranty. Most people have me go ahead and order them a new replacement, but if it's someone just trying to sell a house....
The smacking treatment does prove very effective at times! :) I've had it work many times for me before. A stuck fan relay on a control board can be fixed that way too heh. Thank you for sharing!
Very helpful video. Nice to see someone quantitatively evaluate filters instead of just relying on manufacturers' claims and homeowner filter-lore.
I use the $1 merv filter and change out every month and clean my A frame every year. My 25 year old Trane blows strong and still has the original parts. Engineers designed my unit with a merv 1. I’ve been quoted $5,700+ to replace my A/C but as long as it does it’s job I’m fine. I’m hoping to get 30 years from my A/C.
Thanks for your video. I believe you meant to say a dirty filter will lower the amps on a standard centrifugal PSC blower motor as it actually is working less hard. Now electronic ECM motors and their kind may work harder. However as you stated the system suffers due to less air moving across heat exchanger or coil causing high temps or icing.
1:13 The 1500 filter you tested is 16X24X1. The rest are 16X25X1. So you could have had leaks on that one filter. Haven't checked the rest of the comments to see if anyone else noticed that...
You drilled holes into your unit for us. That's dedication
Filtrete makes a 2800 filter. When using higher rated filters, they have to be changed more frequently. Using PuraClean filter spray can enhance a filters' ability to capture dust as it apparently is a tacifier and imparts a static charge.
Was having heating issues, followed your recommendation, removed the filter and...problem solved! Using a less restrictive filter...Thank you!
Project Farm did a similar video. His results suggested that higher mpr/merv filters static pressure was higher initially but did not increase as much for a given load of dirt. The reason being that more pleats means more surface area which means less debris were square inch. Someone needs to do more definitive testing testing. In the meantime, it seems clear furnace filters are like engine oil.... change them frequently...dont wait 60-90 days!
I agree 100% I have a house full of allergy sufferers, including myself so I can live with the little restriction, much cleaner air. Dust is not welcomed in my house, I change them every month like you mentioned.
I use to buy the expensive filers and found out most were awful because of restriction and the Flanders EZ Flow will catch dust very efficiently and gets better as it catches more dust
I switched to the green filters years ago. The house cools faster and I save on electricity. I like your videos. You’re helping me maintain my own a/c, because you can get ripped off real bad
down here in Florida...
Glad I could help! Stay cool! :) Looks like you went through quite a few of my videos. Thanks for watching! ;)
classic287 Please explain green filters? Do you mean the fiberglass ones like the one he demonstrated? Thank you.
I am curious what you think about the washable stuff out there. K and N now has a home air filter that they state is MERV 11 and is washable. They make not mention of the static drop but do brag about the flow rate. Great video as usual!
AWSOME video. Did you know K&N Car Air Filter maker made a washable HVAC MERV 11 filter too? I just found out. I was wondering if you could do a comparison test as brand new vs. after 3 months of use & after it has been washed. To see if the air flow has dramatically changed. What do you think?👍
I keep coming back to this video since getting a pressure meter. I started weekly measurements to get a graph going on how often it reaches my set threshold before changing it.
Which one did you get?
This was such an informative video on understanding filters. I have struggled with finding the best filters to keep the efficiency high but our air "cleaner" since we also have 2 cats... we can also fit the wider filters in our system which are supposed to have better airflow so I would love to see how 4" vs 1" compare right off the bat but also just how long they last since the cost is significantly higher and after seeing this I feel like those should still be switched every 2-3 months, not the 6+ like they may advertise. I also just replaced a filter that I thought was clean but in fact looked like your dirty white one when I compared it to a fresh filter. At least I know that means these are in fact filtering out particles.
I enjoy all your videos - very informative. As a side note, I have used a fiberglass filter (the same one) for 45 years in Texas. I usually wash it twice per season. Never had ‘A’ coil checked. When first turn on a/c in spring, aim infra-red thermometer at vent to check if temperature same as previous year. Most recent A/C at least 6 yrs old. Knock on wood :-)
The 3m 1900 rating starts out at the Lowest static drop at its highest rated CFM than their lower or higher rate MPR models. And since it will have a high dirt capture rate , the static drop will increase fast depending on the interior condition such as carpet, pets, etc. As I tell my customers in Northern California area, they have a choice, if they want better cleaning of their circulated air, use the higher MPR (Merv) rated filters, but do understand that it will need to be changed about once a month, and in many cases the blower motor will be running slightly harder and may draw slightly more power. The plus is that the insides of the furnace will stay cleaner or not get as dirty as fast as using the basic fiberglass filter. I left out a lot of details , but my home system return air supply is oversized so that it can use the 2800 or higher 3 M Filtrete filter mainly to keep the furnace and supply ducting as clean as possible for as long as possible so me being as lazy as I am don't have to work so hard cleaning the ducting and furnace especially the blower wheel because the furnace is in the attic and I am not as slim as I was in my younger days. With all the recent California fires, nearly all my customers have requested the highest rate MPR models that are available for their systems, the feedback has been that they do notice an inside air improvement, albeit subjective of course.
having a clean house helps...also no candles, smoking, and keep your filthy animals in the barn.
I was very interested to see results, however right up front I noticed you placed the static pressure tubes incorrectly. Look like you have them pointed down. That puts the holes in the tube normal to the flow which means you're reading total pressure not static pressure. For static pressure you should place the probes parallel to flow. The difference will be that the total pressure includes the velocity pressure component which will vary depending on pressure drop. That throws off your results. Otherwise it would have been a great test. Hope you try it again sometime with the correct orientation of the tubes.
In this case it probably doesn't make much difference since he is measuring where there are turns and the air is not laminar.
Great video probably best to change the filter more frequently. What do you do with the holes you drilled plug them? Thank You
Either plug them or put some aluminum tape over them.
I have a very similar furnace in my house and I do run the high end. I think it was 1800 filtrate model and I do have to change my filters about every 4 to 6 weeks. They start off white and they come out to Grey. I have a dog. If you start to see your filter, bow change it you’re hurting your compressor or your fan blower. Great way to cause a coolant leak and if you have an old filter like mine are R22 is rare and expensive.
Just ask my neighbor, who forgot to change her filter for two years her bill all I have to say ouch.
Thanks for this video. Perfect timing. I've been using the premium filters until this past cold spell of 2019. My furnace was constantly running but eventually the fan was just going with no heat coming out of the vents. Turns out the filter was caved in. I've replace with a more middle of the road filter and will see how it works out.
How’d it work out bro?
@@thegr8rambino I've switched to just the basic blue filters, similar to the green ones shown in the video. I noticed that even with the middle of the road filters, they still clogged in a pretty short time. When I changed them, they were caved in just like his. The only difference now is that I change the cheaper ones much more often considering they are pretty cheap. I did not change the others ones as often because they were more expensive and they were "supposed" to last longer without getting clogged. That wasn't the case for me.
I just changed my furnace filter. Thanks for the reminder.
Great job providing readings on various filters!!! BUT.. There is absolutely no way a dirty filter is worse than plywood. It amazes me the wild false clams that are made by UA-camrs.
I always told homeowners to shut off the system when vacuuming. Also used 3M spray adhesive on the cheap fiberglass filters...👍👍💚
did you look to see what was in the 3M adhesive - one is a carcinogen.
@@stellaherrick7462 no, I didn't realize that. Thanks for the information 👍👍
Good vacuums have hepa filters and should create very little dust. Also, let the furnace clean what does arise vs letting it settle in the rooms.
Nice video. I'm thinking the pressure drop is a function of both the MPR rating and the filter surface area. Since the filters increase in pleats as they increase in MPR, it could explain the lower pressure drop with the 1200 and 1900. That said, it seems like a filter having both an MPR of 300 and a lot of pleats would really be good.
This is interesting .. I just had new furnace installed a few days ago, it was expensive so I want to let it breathe and at same time protect it as best I can.
I put a GeneralAire G99 air filter gage on my unit and it gives a visual indication of the air pressure difference so you can know when to change the filter. This saves having to open up and visually check the filter. Although not as cool as the manometer used in the video, it is cheap.
I use a honeywell F50 HV air cleaner it has a SP of .1 at 1500 CFM 3 ton and never gets worse then that even when cells need to be cleaned in dishwasher. If you don't use that type get a filter housing for a 4 inch pleated. High static pressure will cost you money big time especially on AC.
Hi J
Thumbs up for your video content. When using inexpensive filters as I do spray intake side of filter with hair spray it increases the amount of dust particles , dander and crap the filter catches.
You’re videos rock
Thank you for the great suggestion Fred! Glad to hear you like the videos!
Increasing pleats both increases airflow *and* filtration (because face velocity is lower the shaper the angle of the pleat). This is why the high rating filters sometimes rate better than the next step down.
Some manufacturers just use more restrictive material though. It's very important to use one by a legit manufacturer like 3M or Honeywell.
Also, a clogged filter of any rating will eventually get to 1+. More pleats will last longer, but they filter smaller particles so for the same filter media the higher filtration one should last longer (i.e
600 last longer than 300, 1900 longer than 1500)
Two thumbs up as always. You are the most helpful on you tube for HVAC. Thank you!
Thanks. I have pretty severe allergies so I needed something with a high rating, but was worry about airflow. I will give 1900 a try.
3M said they can last 3 months but I am not sure if it can last that long.
it's getting coldrer in CA, so checking out the filter thing. This is my first year to take care my 1 year old furnace. so glad that I bought the right cheap filter, and I will change them often if I use it everyday.
Thank you for sharing great information so which one would you use?
Here's a cheat that really works...have done this for many years...I use cheap fiberglass hardware store filters, the kind in a 3 pack for $5.....I lightly spray them with WD-40 then lay them out in the sun to let the solvent evaporate and odor to dissipate. They collect much more dust so I change them frequently but the furnace fan, motor and aircon evaporator coil remain spotless.
What does the wd40 actually do, if you don't mind me asking
@@Drew-bv9rc The WD40 remains slightly sticky and captures more dust..I change the filters monthly...
@@Drew-bv9rc it’s the same idea of oiling a filter on a motorcycle or lawnmower
I used to work on a crew that cut rumble strips. The asphalt dust would plug up the radiators of all the equipment in about a month. So used polyester pillow fill to cover the radiators and spray them with aerosol spray starch. Worked great. You could even reverse the matting to use both sides. Spray starch is preferred because any that got on the radiator would cook off and not build up.
WD-40 is a good idea!
Great video! I guess it's a trade-off, how much dust you can tolerate in your house vs how much strain you want put on your furnace and A/C systems. Newer systems should be ok with a higher MERV filter but older systems may need a lower MERV especially if you're trying to nurse it along for a few more years. Also a thicker filter like a 5 inch has more total surface area and hence could have a higher number of pleats and MERV rating without restricting the airflow as much as a thinner 1 inch filter if it will fit in your filter slot.
Interesting! Just saw this on the YT “reading list”. The installers push those “ thick” filters when they try to upsell. I said fine, but show me that you can keep below the max static pressure spec for the furnace and for how long. That shut them up. I use the Filtrete 1085 s, or equivalents, and change them out every six weeks. My A coil is clean after 8 years. The filter manufacturers don’t make it easy to compare efficiency though. Everybody has a different system and , I suspect , different processes to cost the pleats.
Best air filter video i ever seen.good job.
this was such an informational video man.... do keep up the good work
We use the 3M 2200 filters from Costco, usually pick up a 3 pack or 2 when they go on sale so they end up costing around 12 bucks each. The pleats are very dense, so they shouldn't be that restrictive when they're new similar to that 1900 filter. Just change them out when I hear them start to whistle, roughly 1-3 months depending on how much the HVAC system is being used.
One benefit of use a high MERV filter is that the evaporator fins of the AC system stay cleaner and require cleaning less often. Though I am thinking of transitioning to a less restrictive filter for the HVAC and using a secondary filter system that runs 24/7 to keep the air in the house cleaner. Probably something like a Corsi Rosenthal box because I'm a bit of a cheapskate.
I've use Filtrete 1500 for 26 years, my electric furnace is working just fine, but I check and if necessary change the filter monthly. I hold the filter up to sunlight. If light streams through, so will air. Also if the filter is starting to bulge towards the furnace, it's time to change.
I am need of some advice here. I bought my house 4 yrs. ago w/ knowledge that the HVAC system that includes an oil furnace needs replacing. There was duct tape all around where to coolant pipes go in the front of the panel in the basement utility room. 1st summer the A/C was comfy. It turned on and off and kept the house 73F. That winter the heat pump didn't heat so it defaulted to the auxiliary mode i.e.furnace burning heating oil. I am outside Montreal and went through about 3/4 tank of oil and was happy. The following summer my a/c worked but froze up inside the utility room and then when it stopped water would run as ice melted along the back wall, I'm guessing it has froze up inside the unit. I put down a few of those super absorbest rags and squeezed them out a lot. A lot of stuff happened to me here and I am about to sell my house. I turned on the a/c and it's blows warm air. I washed the heat pump last fall. It runs and blows air out the top and sucks air in all around it. I just checked. I don't want to spend a lot and at the same time it's 83F inside. I cleaned all the air vents. Also last year my a/c would reduce the humidity and I could see the condensation dripping into the ground drain inside the utility room. I am about to call a technicians but am worried about being taken to the cleaners. I just need to have some coolness until Sept. Any advice would be VERY much appreciated. I used to live in Montreal in a 103 year old Victorian and had thick walls and hot water heaters. This house is modern but very hot. BTW my furnace takes the prefurnace and post furnace Honeywell filters. The post one are green 16 x 12. (2) The hot air blew so easily when the furnace was running so why is there only warm air running. Coolant leak? Thanks and keep posting your great videos. I am learning a lot. I don't trust the local techs. I saw how the local roofers took the old man next door to the cleaners twice and his roof is missing flashing on my side. Nice WORK! I'll have to get someone in from Montreal. Damn crooks here. Thanks!
We have to have a combination of free flowing and still have effective cleaning, seems to be a balance of the two that is needed. The better the cleaning, the more restrictive the filter. I use a Merv 3 pleated and it seems ok, in my dusty climate. I may try a fiberglass next time, I didn't know that they were so much less restrictive. I really enjoyed the test.
Thank you for the great info!! Please do testing on higher MERV rating filters. MERV 12-16 would be amazing!
The MPR 1900 he tested here has a MERV 13 rating according the manufacturer, 3M/Filtrete, and there's no need for a higher MERV rating as that's already basically HEPA quality.
@@themikeroberts Well considering a HEPA filter has a minimum MERV 17 rating I would have to disagree on all points. There is always a reason to use a specific rated filter but that also comes with other issues which is why I made my original comment.
I just installed a new F/A system and all new ducting/flex, etc ... and ran it a few seconds a few times without a filter to make sure my intake/output was balanced .... having 2 big hairy dogs I installed Merv2 (green glass) at the returns to catch the big stuff (sprayed with filter charger) and then a Merv 6 at the furnace ... it worked well, good flow/balance .... (and I'm a fanatic about changing filters once a month to keep unit from working too hard, buy in bulk from amazon, cheap insurance in my book as an experienced builder) ..... I accidentally ordered 6 Merv 11's mid heating season ... and noticed immediately the air flow was restricted, and really restricted in a short time 2 weeks or so .... so it's always a balancing act ..... too bad manufactures don't test and put the new filter differential number on their products .... although I do have a Manometer and probes to test as you did here .... anyway, very informative, i always learn, or relearn things when I watch one of your video's ... good info without loosing the DYI person by getting to mysterious or technical .... I have another tip if you buy in bulk packages, besides using a spray on charger (available on amazon) store your filters in a warm/dry place ... I'm in eastern PA right on the Delaware in a 150 year old house .... dampness and mold are always a problem here .... bulk filters without plastic wrap in a cardboard box got moldy quickly ... so I store upstairs in a big contractors box to keep them clean and mold free .... late Aug, and I tossed the last few Merv 11's so need to reorder some Merv 6's on amazon when I get off here .... thanks for the vid, I've been subbed for a while
Thanks for this info. So how often should you change your filter if you are using one of the premium ones to avoid damage to your hvac?
If you are running your furnace every day, then changing it once a month would be best.
@@WordofAdviceTVThank you
On your manometer The readinf should be "INWC" not "INWG". Unless UEI and Fieldpiece are labeled differently
So I have a question why do they sell these if they will cause overheating for furance???
A+ video !
Just caught this which triggered a question - howz bout the 'electronic' filter setups ... just how do they compare in all aspects ??? I run 2 furnaces here - both 92 efficiency types - one setup with a nice April-aire deal which do require changing the filters out (pleat-style) - the other being a quite the more expensive electronic deal that only requires cleaning of the contained twin elements & their 2 respective screens. SO just how they compare as for restrictions, dust, dander, etc. - seems to b quite an interesting topic thou I havent scrolled comments nor all over Utuber for similar vids at this time.
If you have matching filters I would suggest weight them both in seeing what the difference is.
If you only have 1 lb difference or less and it becomes very restrictive versus a 5-in pleated with 1 lb and it's less restrictive than we know that the 5-in is the better value, and won't make your motor work as hard
I'm sure that piece of plywood created a very poor seal with the furnace frame and allowed a huge amount of bypass. That explains why it appeared to be better with regard to flow rate compared to actual filters. To be honest, observing how easily some of the filters slid into the furnace indicates that a good number of them established a poor seal with the furnace frame and make the results of your experiment somewhat suspect.
People don't realize when they get an expensive filter, you don't get as much air coming out of your vents and it makes it harder for the air to get to the second floor. I have had it happen where people complain the second floor is cold and just getting a less restrictive filter solved that problem.
I just use the cheap fiberglass ones. They do just fine imo.
Between the 600 and 1200 filters, you are witnessing filter construction coming to bear. The pleats on the 600 are allowed to flop over, in other words, they are not braced like the 1200 filters. ( notice the difference in filter construction). The 1200 is supported and held in place more rigidly. This creates a noticeable difference in airflow..
It would be interesting to see a vid that proves your theory that a clogged high efficiency filter restricts more than a low efficiency one.
Yeah.. Sorry, I didn't have an example of a very dirty premium filter. I wish I would have kept some of those extreme examples from previous jobs. It would have been interesting to see how big or small the pressure difference would have really been.
So basically, 300 in summer for better AC flow, and 1500 in winter since heating a home acts faster than cooling even with more restricted flow
Another great video! I hope you're loving Hawaii, just saw your latest update. I just replaced my blower motor and serviced my AC system using your channel! Thanks a ton.
this is the way that science should be done. great job. the drama is in the numbers.
Thank you! Glad you liked the video :)
I have owned my current house for 11 years, and a good-quality Trane air conditioner was put in two years before I moved in. I have almost always used the Filtrete 1900, except for a few years after Home Depot stopped carrying them and switched to Honeywell, of which I used the MERV 13 Premium version, that were not any cheaper than the Filtrete 1900. I don't know if they were as effective, but they had much wider pleats and were much flimsier, and would bow inwards under the negative pressure of the air conditioning unit, although the frame still provided a seal. When I discovered the Filtrete were being sold on Amazon I resumed using the 1900 version in 2017. At first in this house, I would change them after a month, as recommended by the air conditioning service people, but then I went to a month and a half, then two months, and for the last year or two have been leaving them in for three months. After three months they do get a light gray color (I accidentally left one in for close to six months one time when I was having eye problems). I can't tell if it is putting a strain on the air conditioning unit or not, but I never had to service the motor, and never had to clean the coils and this air conditioner was unit was installed in 2007. When I moved in I had the air ducts enlaged, especially to the front bedroom/office and had another vent put in that room near the original one, as it wasn't getting as cool as the other rooms. (This current air conditioner is also a larger size unit than it replaced, before I moved in, I believe). But I don't burn candles or even grill things in the kitchen--I had a cat in the house for the first six years but that didn't seem to affect the filters much--I don't have rugs. I noticed that dust does still accumulate in the living and dining room areas and the kitchen and actual bedroom, but hardly at all, comparatively, in two other rooms, the front bedroom set up as an office but not used much, and the small middle bedroom, which is used as a library, where the door is kept shut for the library and almost shut except for about 2 inches, for the front bedroom/office which is at the end of a short hallway. So unless the extra dust comes in during the brief times the front and back doors are open I'm not sure why it is dustier in the living areas, with just one person in the house, unless it comes from a couch or more leaking of air from of the windows or sliding glass doors in those areas.
PS I just reordered six of the Filtrete 1900 filters from Amazon, but I didn't discover until they were delivered in a day or two, but somehow the item was switched in my cart when I placed the order to the wrong size, so I have to return them for refund, and the correct size says it will ship in 1 to 2 months. Looking at the 3M website it says no distributor available at this time. I wonder if they are short supply because they had to repurpose the 1900 spec material for respirators a year ago.
I just saw the no distributor available at this time on their website but the 1900 is available at Lowes. Currently, if you buy 4+, they are $14.38 each. Glad to hear that you've had a good experience with them.
@@chevelleflorida Oh, I thought you meant it was not available on Amazon, you meant the Home Depot. Although I have four filters left and one in use with a couple months remaining, I ordered six more from Amazon in case they becomes scarce. The dimensions of mine are probably not as common as some other sizes. They are something like $116 for 6, $110 if you subscribe for delivery, on Amazon. I looked on the Lowe's website and they do not have the 1900 or anything about 1500 MERV in my size filter.
I am using a MERV13 16x24x1" during and I started getting air filtration warnings (Rheem EcoNet smart thermostat on an HVAC system, installed in May, 2020 with duct clean). I expected the first few to be dirty during the summer cooling. When heating started, the MERV13 was a little too restrictive so I went to a MERV8 after Xmas. 1st filter warning warning was Jan 20 EcoNet warns if filtration is blocking and issues a variety of warnings based on filtration restrictions. Replaced MERV8 filter. How often is perhaps how long we stay home. During Covid19, we were always home daily.
Feb 8 through 15 was a week of sub zero temps so the furnace ran almost continuiously. Feb 20, warnings popped up on EcoNet thermostat. Changed filter, warnings calmed down. I think that once we get back to "normal", filter change may be less.
Hey what are your thoughts on electronic air cleaners? Thanks in advance i love your videos
Great video! Learned alot. Have you ever tested reusable ones such as AirThreds? And how do they rank?
As other people have commented, why don't furnace manufacturers monitor this, even with a built-in manometer, or simply just monitor the current draw for the blower, I would expect the current draw to increase if the air flow is restricted. Or, maybe, if the blower fan speeds up because of less air it may use less current. More research required!
Love the plywood fliter, sending this video to friends in the field. Will you do a video on how to size a furnace or an A.C.!
Glad you liked it, thank you! About the sizing.. Thank you for the video suggestion but I have never been an installer, I only do service. So I don't think I would be a good candidate to make a video like that.
Thanks for the great video as always! Question about thickness of the filter: is a 5-inch filter better option than a 1-inch filter? Replacing the system and have a choice now.
The big ones are supposedly better but from my experience I would recommend sticking to the 1 inch filters.
@@WordofAdviceTV Thank you. Why do you recommend the 1 inch ones?
@@roksonak The reasons are mainly practical. They cost less and they do about as good of a job as the 4 inch ones. 1 inch filters are easier to find in any store as well. If you really want to improve air quality then an electronic air filter would be a better option.
I’m glad I bought the MPR 1900
We’re in the process of getting a new heat pump system, and they recommend an AprilAire filter system. Are they really better of should we just go with the cheap ones that you change every 30 days?
I would just go with the cheap ones that you change every month or two. Less headaches and expenses. Buy a box of filters and you're good to go for a year or two.
NaturalAire is a good brand from American Air Filters (AAF Flanders) for pleated. This is the same manufacturer who makes the EZ Flow Fiberglass one in this video.
I would like to see how one of those k&n home air filter do, see how restricted those are.
Thank you for the video Jay! Question, by choosing the 300 cheaper filter, do I save any money in the electric bill?
As I understand the furnace filter is only designed to keep dust away from the motor ductwork?? That said, Now I use a double filter regular inexpensive Merv 8 filter and a permanent washable filter on top. Am I getting better filtration?
One thing pointed out - These filters are produced to protect your furnace equipment - not your Family Member’s breathing conditions.
Purchase a couple of portable HEPA filter (air filtering )machines (AirDoctor) & place them in the living room & bedroom.
Don’t rely on a furnace filter to aid in your family’s breathing health.
Do you recommend using K&N washable filter
They make one for a HVAC?
Awesome video! Love all the info. I guess expensive isn't always better. IDK what the FPM rating is but the only one home depot sells in my size Rheam cheap pleated filter 3 for $10 seams to be the way to go!