I'm now spoiled with my home built rotisserie and surface conditioning tool. I am thankful to have the space to do it and the tools to make it easier. I had to do those methods as well. I have seen several colors and shades under old Fords. A friend of mine has a collection you would be jealous of but he will never het around to building them... They have every color imaginable. Also FYI rustoleum by the gallon can be mixed with acrylic enamel hardener and there are also some very good acrylic maintenance enamels that a few larger farm stores carry that works very well for the price. There is a satin black that has an excellent look for underbody areas. On the chip brushes hit them with the air hose and fluff up the bristles to knock most of the loose ones out. Yes I buy them by the case too.
I've been using's one of those pressure washer media blasting attachments recently and found it really good at gently cleaning rusted panels. Though when it comes to coating POR15 has always been my go-to . However, I do like lanolin based coatings for the exterior floor etc. though they do need redoing every so often. But I also drive my cars all year round so they do have to deal with heavily slated roads.
Good stuff Jeff!! Things are definitely moving along with the Galaxie! I totally agree with you about Rustoleum paint, it is just phenomenal stuff! Happy Thanksgiving to all and be safe! 🙏🏻🏁
@AutoRestoMod Great ideas... I really appreciate your tips in this floor pans work. I got to try to find some good prep cleaner it looks like it works good too. I hope you & your family the best Thanksgiving too ✌😇🦃
First point: 67 Mustang Coupe... the undercarriage was a reddish brown with a slight metallic look. As to the floor pans, I guess I did this sort of backwards. Since I'm not a welder, I had the front and rear pans replaced by someone that was a welder. Then, with the car on a good safe set of jackstands, I wire wheeled and scraped the entire undercarriage and wheel wells and followed that with thoroughly cleaning the same areas with a pre-paint cleaner. The next step was to seam seal everything underneath, paying special attention to the floor pan welds and then coated it all in Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator Undercoating. On the interior, it received a good heavy coat of Eastwood Platinum Rust Encapsulator (after the same cleaning procedure as done underneath). I am hoping that all this will mean I don't have to address rust in these areas for a very long time. And Jeff is correct in that it is a VERY nasty job. I put large sheets of cardboard under neath to help protect the garage floor and vacuumed often.
Home Dep. Sells a spray paint which is Rust-Oleum a no name only in black or white. This info was from person in the paint section. & It's about 3.00$ a can. Works GREAT USE IT ON MY FRAME.
I thing I use and can recommend over the Rust Oleum spray paint cans, which are now stupid expensive (over $12 plus tax in my area) and don't cover much area, is to use the Rust Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel in the gallon size with a simple brush. In my experience the professional paints stick much better than the spray on stuff, and are less susceptible to parts that are not super clean, and it will not scratch off or chip as easily as the spray on stuff. One gallon is like $45 but it will cover waaaay more than the equivalent 3-4 cans of spray paint. I have a gallon that I have used in 3 different cars and I still have 75% left. For stuff like floors, wheelhouses, chassis, k members, stuff that you cannot see and which does not need to be nice and flat, the brush on stuff is the bomb. Plus you can paint without having to cover or disassemble stuff that you do not want to have overspray hit it, as there is no overspray.
Normally I keep all the doors open. We just had them closed for filming. When we were done shooting scenes we would open the doors up and run the fans. But that isn't excellent point.
Getting Por-15 off of your skin has to be done immediately. I usually just spray a little brake clean on a rag and wipe it off. On canned spray paint. Over the past 10 ish years I have been using ACE hardwares house brand spray paints and primers. I’m not sure who makes it for them, but I have been very pleased with it.
Great approach to a driver that you don't care to have as a show car.
Thank you
What a goof! Love the content
Thanks for the kind words.
I use Rustoleum Rust Reformer to stop the rust and create a printable surface, then use whatever color as the color coat.
Good tip!
Thanks!
You're welcome
I'm now spoiled with my home built rotisserie and surface conditioning tool. I am thankful to have the space to do it and the tools to make it easier. I had to do those methods as well. I have seen several colors and shades under old Fords. A friend of mine has a collection you would be jealous of but he will never het around to building them... They have every color imaginable.
Also FYI rustoleum by the gallon can be mixed with acrylic enamel hardener and there are also some very good acrylic maintenance enamels that a few larger farm stores carry that works very well for the price. There is a satin black that has an excellent look for underbody areas.
On the chip brushes hit them with the air hose and fluff up the bristles to knock most of the loose ones out. Yes I buy them by the case too.
Great stuff! Thanks!
I've been using's one of those pressure washer media blasting attachments recently and found it really good at gently cleaning rusted panels. Though when it comes to coating POR15 has always been my go-to . However, I do like lanolin based coatings for the exterior floor etc. though they do need redoing every so often. But I also drive my cars all year round so they do have to deal with heavily slated roads.
Interesting.
Good stuff Jeff!! Things are definitely moving along with the Galaxie! I totally agree with you about Rustoleum paint, it is just phenomenal stuff!
Happy Thanksgiving to all and be safe! 🙏🏻🏁
Happy Thanksgiving to you too Paul.
@AutoRestoMod Great ideas... I really appreciate your tips in this floor pans work. I got to try to find some good prep cleaner it looks like it works good too. I hope you & your family the best Thanksgiving too ✌😇🦃
Thank you for the kind words, and a happy Thanksgiving to you and yours as well!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you, you too.
First point: 67 Mustang Coupe... the undercarriage was a reddish brown with a slight metallic look. As to the floor pans, I guess I did this sort of backwards. Since I'm not a welder, I had the front and rear pans replaced by someone that was a welder. Then, with the car on a good safe set of jackstands, I wire wheeled and scraped the entire undercarriage and wheel wells and followed that with thoroughly cleaning the same areas with a pre-paint cleaner. The next step was to seam seal everything underneath, paying special attention to the floor pan welds and then coated it all in Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator Undercoating. On the interior, it received a good heavy coat of Eastwood Platinum Rust Encapsulator (after the same cleaning procedure as done underneath). I am hoping that all this will mean I don't have to address rust in these areas for a very long time. And Jeff is correct in that it is a VERY nasty job. I put large sheets of cardboard under neath to help protect the garage floor and vacuumed often.
Sounds to me like you did just fine Jimmy!
Bob Ross once told me, "A mistake is a happy accident"😁
It's not a problem, it's a project. Bob and me are kindred spirts. Only I am far more loud...
Home Dep. Sells a spray paint which is Rust-Oleum a no name only in black or white. This info was from person in the paint section. & It's about 3.00$ a can. Works GREAT USE IT ON MY FRAME.
Is interesting!
Jeff, what would I do without you. ..
Be bored, I was hoping he would wear a Bob Ross wig for the entire episode
You'd manage. But it would be a sadder place right?🤣
Just remember open flames and Bob Ross wigs don't mix.
I thing I use and can recommend over the Rust Oleum spray paint cans, which are now stupid expensive (over $12 plus tax in my area) and don't cover much area, is to use the Rust Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel in the gallon size with a simple brush. In my experience the professional paints stick much better than the spray on stuff, and are less susceptible to parts that are not super clean, and it will not scratch off or chip as easily as the spray on stuff. One gallon is like $45 but it will cover waaaay more than the equivalent 3-4 cans of spray paint. I have a gallon that I have used in 3 different cars and I still have 75% left. For stuff like floors, wheelhouses, chassis, k members, stuff that you cannot see and which does not need to be nice and flat, the brush on stuff is the bomb. Plus you can paint without having to cover or disassemble stuff that you do not want to have overspray hit it, as there is no overspray.
That's an excellent point! I like it.
@@AutoRestoMod Give it a try 🙂
Please do this in a well ventilated area. Holy smokes!
Normally I keep all the doors open. We just had them closed for filming. When we were done shooting scenes we would open the doors up and run the fans. But that isn't excellent point.
Getting Por-15 off of your skin has to be done immediately. I usually just spray a little brake clean on a rag and wipe it off. On canned spray paint. Over the past 10 ish years I have been using ACE hardwares house brand spray paints and primers. I’m not sure who makes it for them, but I have been very pleased with it.
Our nearest ACE is Augusta. Good tip on the POR15. My problem is I tend to find the stuff hours later and mumble "how'd that get there."
@@AutoRestoMod oh for sure, it’s almost always on the back of my elbow or forearm and has completely cured by the time I notice it. 🤦♂️
I hear ya…. It’s 48 degrees in Texas and it’s cold 🥶
Yup. Wet cold sucks.
Eastwood rust converter is excellent. Last time I bought some I think it was $80/gallon. Yikes.
Yeah I've used that before it is really good.
Keep up the great work! Become an online boss > Promo'SM!!