Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 21 Adaptive Meshing and Purging
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 21 Adaptive Meshing and Purging
This is the twenty first video of several videos where I will build a Voron 2.4 350 and show step by step. In this step I add adaptive meshing and purging.
Let me know what I'm doing right and wrong please. I want to get better at this.
My mailing address if you want to send me something cool:
Scott Corn
5411 State Route 261 #622
Newburgh, IN. 47629
KAMP Github
github.com/kyl...
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A Link to all Voron information:
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www.vorondesign...
I use Polymaker ASA for most of my prints. Affiliate link.
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us.polymaker.com?aff=345
Video hardware I use with affiliate links. Helps me out costs you nothing.
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PreSonus Eris E3.5-3.5" Near Field Studio Monitors amzn.to/3EAWKp6 (great budget studio monitors)
beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro Studio Headphones amzn.to/3ydbMhf (I can’t say enough about these studio headphones! I can hear again! lol)
Blackmagic Design Speed Editor Bundle with Davinci Resolve amzn.to/3YbkEOY
PreSonus AudioBox iTwo amzn.to/3IX6DQz (Mac friendly audio interface, sound out to everything)
PreSonus HP4 Headphone Amp amzn.to/3EGeShj
Cable Creation ¼” Balanced TRS Cable amzn.to/3Z3TrPo (To speakers)
Hosa HSS-001.5 1/4" Balanced TRS Patch Cable amzn.to/41v0Eta (from audio interface to amp)
Elgato Wave:3 Microphone amzn.to/3ZptDgu
Elgato Pop Filter amzn.to/3KFaDWV
Elgato Wave Mic Arm amzn.to/3Y3KhRq (better than even high priced booms)
Plugable 7 Port USB Hub amzn.to/3lZmxk6 (to power external camera on printer)
Arducam Raspberry Pi HQ Camera amzn.to/3kAiGcT (printer external 4K camera)
Arducam C-Mount Lens amzn.to/3ZjpPxH (external camera lens)
Tools I use with affiliate links. Helps me out costs you nothing.
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3D Printer Nozzle Cleaner Brush amzn.to/3COSelZ
Amazon Commercial Heavy Duty Infrared Thermometer amzn.to/3X3inVH
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Bondhus Balldriver and Hex T-handles amzn.to/3XgQEkK
Excel Soft Grip Hobby Knife amzn.to/3WWKvK2
Hakko Wire Stripper 20-10 Gauge amzn.to/3Ck5wGW
Hakko Wire Stripper 30-20 Gauge amzn.to/3Il5bY4
Hakko FX951-66 Soldering Station amzn.to/3GELPw1
Hakko FX888D Soldering Station amzn.to/3D38gJ7 (Works with heat-set tips)
Heat-Set Insert Tips amzn.to/3G5A3sY
iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 150mm amzn.to/3Z4f4iw (cheap but great)
IWISS SN-28B Dupont Terminal Ratchet Crimper amzn.to/3iaQAnv
IWISS IWS-3220M Micro Connector Pin Crimper 32-20AWG amzn.to/3Z5wo77
IWISS Non-Insulated Terminal Crimping Tool 22-6 Gauge amzn.to/3WIhMcl
Kinex Solid Machinist Square 6 x 4 Inches amzn.to/3QffMpG
Klein Tools Twisted Pair Radial Stripper amzn.to/3jOYyD4
Klein Tools Crimping Tool Pass-Thru RJ45 Connectors amzn.to/3jDJ8l4
KNIPEX Pliers Wrench amzn.to/3CPM84w
MOLEX Extraction Tool amzn.to/3WJsX4i
Shinwa 150mm Rigid Metric Machinist Rule amzn.to/3QaRrB0
Shinwa 1000mm Rigid Metric Machinist Rule amzn.to/3VCVYxf
Silicon Mat for Soldering amzn.to/3iUsePg (This is a very inexpensive kitchen mat that works great)
Starrett Pin Vise (Holds drill bits and reamers) amzn.to/3GEa1Pa
Starrett Starrett Steel Pocket Scriber amzn.to/3HiX6T7
Super Lube 31110 Aerosol amzn.to/3WKdCk3
Tekpower Desktop DC Power Supply amzn.to/3Qdz8LJ
Uxcell Chucking Reamer Set (Cheap for plastic only) amzn.to/3WJrOK2
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WEN 3" bench vise amzn.to/3H8dPrR (Cheap but good hobby vise)
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Hey Scott, I miss your videos, hope everything is fine and you’re just taking time off. Cheers
Trying to find what went wrong for days and that M117 Gcode at 6:44 saved my life! Much love and thanks!
No problem. There is something off in Klipper right now and you have to ignore the last error message at start. They say they are going to fix it sometime.
Been following your build series and it's very useful even as I have modded mine like crazy since completing it. One suggestion for your videos, break up the timeline in sections and add the time codes in your descriptions. Makes for quick reference! Keep up the great work, Scott!
Thank you! You are correct of course. I've just been too lazy to do it so far. lol
I just finished a Voron 2.4r2 350 build - or should I say you built it though me as I followed your work from start to end and it was invaluable. I can't thank you enough. Despite the hardships (this is not my Carbon X1) I am getting some of the finest prints ever and it's huge in print size.
Thank you
philly
You are welcome!
Mine has done some very good prints also. I'm at around 700 hours of printing on it now and I think it's time to check screws for tightness and gantry for square again. It's still good, but I'm seeing a little bit of degrigration in the prints. Nothing bad, just not quite as clean.
Спасибо за ваши видео. Прошло полгода с момента последнего видео... Хотелось бы увидеть работу над Voron Tap и CAN bus...) Работы впереди еще полно, жду продолжения!
Thanks for the M117 tip. I had noticed my adaptive mesh wasn't firing but I haven't had the time to track down what was going on. I'll give M117 a try with my next print!
No problem. Should work for you. I think it is fairly common on Vorons at least.
Great video. Great new toy to add to the Voron. Thanks Sir! I count on videos like this to keep me up to date with the latest and greatest upgrades for the worlds best printer. I just don't have the time to stay current on discord.
Thank you!
Thanks for the video, it got me set up nicely.
I'm glad. You are welcome.
Big Thx Scott
Your videos have been a huge help to get my build done.
Also the original doc is quite good, you helped me very much to understand the missing/in-doubt-how-to-understand parts.
Great job and I too love your voice overs.
I added Pi-TFT50 and camera. The klipperscreen is a huge improvement.
Camera with bullseye is still a pain in the b... Will come.
All based on Manta mp8 and a cm4.
Please keep on with your superb videos.
Mike
Great to hear! I have a klipper screen and have even printed out the parts. Sometimes needing to video everything keeps me from getting stuff done. lol
I never bothered with bed mesh but this adaptive mesh looks really cool so I just added it to my print start. Great video as always Scott, looking forward to the next one.
Awesome! Thank you!
I’ve been following all your videos Scott. I have yet to do a bed mesh and I had to leave it uncommented in klicky_probe.cfg to avoid an error. I’m at the part where you added BED_MESH_CALIBRATE and BED_MESH_CLEAR to printer.cfg macros now I have an error:
‘BED_MESH_CALIBRATE’ not found in gcode_macro rename.
I assume this is because I’m missing something because I’ve never done a bed mesh before?
Ok I just added some example bed mesh.cfg and included it in printer.cfg. The adaptive mesh worked as expected but I can’t uncomment the bed_mesh.cfg. I have to leave it uncommented along with adaptive mesh with the rest of my include’s near the top of my printer.cfg.
I hope I make sense lol
Sorry I’m slow to get back with you. Work has me away. I hope to be back in my shop tomorrow. I’ll see what I can find then.
@@scottcorn No worries Scott ima way past that now lol. I just got the nozzle scrubber set up today thanks again to one of your videos
Nice, il probably get a voron this year and your videos are great for when il build mine
Cool, thanks!
Very Nicely paced , informative, and to the point . Good closeups of the screen and printer . What a relief to see how you fixed an Error message , this is what we all experience at some time or other but you rarely see this addressed by other utubers . I followed your video. And it all works . I run TAP on a Trident . I'm not intending to change direction by building a Voron 2.4 but I'm going to watch your series , I'm sure to learn something. Subscribed.
Many thanks! I'm working towards TAP. I'll update to 2.4r2 in the gantry first. I decided finally to upgrade to CAN bus also.
Thank you or such a great video series. Great video shots, scripting, commentary, and humour. I was on the fence about building a 2.4, now I'm gung ho! Have you considered going CANBUS? It would make another great video or 2.
Great video! You have a good way of explaining the process and showing all the steps in detail and at a good pace.
One tip though: you don't have to do 'save & restart' after a file if you need to do one more edit in another file. Just do the restart after the last file, that's enough. Otherwise you have to wait for Klipper to restart everytime, which is not necessary because you're not finished yet.
Thanks for the tip!
Its been a while Scott. Hope all is well!
Thanks for the great content. Absolutely my go to for building my 2.4
Thank you!
Audio sounding good my friend..
Love your videos thank you!!
Hi, and thanks for the great videos you are making. I appreciate that you do the speaking now, it makes it easier to get the details. I have seen on some of your videos that you have an excellent printing quality on some parts. It would have been nice if you could show us some tips and tricks to get those printing results.
Thank you. I was just thinking about running through Andrew Ellis’ print tuning guide. Everything is good on my prints except my overhangs are less than great. I know part of it is the old print head I'm running, but I think it should be better. Running a third print of a small V0.2 part right now trying to get an overhang to look better.
Hello Sir , I watched all your videos and I would like to thank you very much for such an informative and extremely detailed work. Why is there no part 22?
that m117 got me, thank you. !!!
🍻
Thanks for the video! In the next chapter "The Canbus Upgrade & High Speed updates" :P
I'll do it at some point. lol I just don't want to tear down the 2.4 that far until I've got another printer that can print ABS.
Yeah j mean seriously why make the voron logo when purging? You just get 3 small thin pieces to pick up rather than one larger one that's easier to pick up. It's really useless.
I think you should go down the Nozzle cam route, and if you are really brave you could do CANBUS or maybe even Nozzle cam through the CANBUS 🙄😉 But whatever you decide i will watch it, your Videos are great and for that Have a SUB and keep up the fantastic work.
I have the parts for CANBUS, work has been keeping me away from my printers lately though. :(
You should change the first (from the bottom to the gantry) drag chain ends between them. It will stay better.
Scott its time join the TAP crowd.
Yes, I have the parts for it, but I'm pre R2 so the whole gantry and printhead has to be replaced before going to TAP. I want a second printer that can print ABS before I tear this one down that far. My fear is something breaks and I don't have a way to print another part. lol After I get my V0.2 built I'll go to it.
Great video and series! Both have helped me with my Voron journey! Any thought on publishing your config files on GitHub as a reference?
Do a Voron Tap Build. I know there are Shortages of the Optical sensor but I have had a lot of success with the D2HW-C203MR switch. I went ahead and ordered 3 extra just in case they wear out easily.
I have most of the parts, but it will be a little bit before I do this. I'm pre R2 so most of the gantry has to be redone. Right now I'm fighting with Klipper all of a sudden. Not sure what changed after 700 hours of printing. lol
Excellent Thank you!
You are welcome!
I’ve went back thru all your videos. Does any of them cover bed_mesh ?? Or am I missing something.
I hadn't really noticed, but I didn't have anything on the mesh before this video.
@@scottcorn After I have entered the commands BED_MESH_CLEAR and
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE, in printer.cfg Klipper reports: Existing command 'BED_MESH_CALIBRATE' not found in gcode_macro rename. Did I miss something?
@@MarCel-zj1lk Had the same issue. The [bed_mesh] information is missing, so it triggers this error. In the video check out at 5:42 Line: 556. There you will find the data required which should make it work.
Great video!!!
You should upgrade to stealthburner, and maybe cw2.
I have the parts for everything ready, but life is too demanding right now. Hopefully one of these days.
Can you make a specific video tutorial on how to install and use Auto Z?
Yes!!!
I needed to do it for myself. I kept forgetting to run a mesh. lol Several had contacted me also asking for it because of the Klipper change.
I'll need to go back to the V0.2 build after this.
Do a upgrade video to the 2.4r2
I put together almost all my makeup following your advice, excellent videos, but right now I have this error, can you help me? Existing command 'BED_MESH_CALIBRATE' not found in gcode_macro rename
I've got the same issue
managed to solve? I have the same problem.
The adaptive meshing file you refer to doesn't look like the file you use. The adaptive meshing file doesn't have variable probe dock line. That line is in the KAMP settings.cfg. So Iam totally confused.
Also why didn't you ssh in and do KAMP setup through Moonraker so if any updates that come up it can be updated?
Hi there, does the adaptive mesh replace the whole klicky macro?
perfect timing
Thank you. I figured it was needed because of the Klipper change removing the default mesh file. You can turn that back on, but it is better IMHO to mesh each time.
@@scottcorn Yes super great! I hope there will be more mods coming for the 2.4!
I ve got "Extrude below minimum temp" error because extruder is start heating after start procedures. what should i change?
Make sure you slicer has:
print_start EXTRUDER=[first_layer_temperature[initial_tool]] BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature]
in the start g code as the last line. Right above that line should be the command:
M117.
Also make sure you have:
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
in your printer.cfg file. Some sites say start_print when they show examples. The name called in the slicer just has to match the name in printer.cfg.
print_start is what slicers have by default though.
If you have this and it still doesn't work there is/are typos in ether the slicer print_start line or in the macro in printer.cfg.
Hello, I have just tested the new version but for the moment (with bltouch therefore) it takes up my entire tray even for small parts and purges it to 0, I am trying to see what the problem is but it is hard to find x)
Is there nothing else to do?
I have the purge which is done next to the room in addition, I don't understand xD
what is the use of purging? to purge filament from last print if the filament is changed? seems like a waste and that a skirt around the print does the same w less
You are correct that you can do the same with a skirt. At the moment I have both, but I need to just use one.
Just wondering. you are running the Adadaptive Bed mesh but you are not loading the bed mesh once you have ran it. As you mentioned at the beginning of the video, you need to load the bed mesh in the START_PRINT macro
once you have ran it.
A bed mesh each time allows for slight changes in the surface over time and temperature to be picked up. The real important thing is the adaptive part. By only doing the area needed by the print you can do a more detailed (tighter) mesh. This part really does result in a more consistent first layer. This in combination with extrusion backers has made a big difference in the consistency of my first layer over a day of printing.
I know you like the klicky, but maybe TAP would be better
You are right, I'm sure that it would be better. I have the parts for tap but I'm going to wait until I have my V0.2 done before upgrading. I'm pre R2 so I have to replace most of the gantry and the print head to go to TAP. Until I started doing videos I didn't realize how important it is to have more than one printer. lol
I could update the configuration since it changed kam
can you share all the files in your Printer and Macros section? Thank you very much
I don't know if it's been done before, but I'm curious how you did the timelaps
It was a cobbled together thing in the past. Now it is pretty easy.
github.com/mainsail-crew/moonraker-timelapse
will do it with USB cameras now. If there is interest I can show the camera setup I'm using. There is also link in the description of this video of the hardware I use.
@@scottcorn thx dude. U doing good job :)
Maybe stealthburner
I have the parts. I just need to find the time now.
can you send me the configuration files
What about adding stealthburner? Worth it?
It is worth it. I have the parts to upgrade but because my V2 is pre R2 I'll need to upgrade the whole gantry. Going to do it. I'm just not sure when.
Unfortunately at the moment it looks like my MCU (Octopus 1.1) is failing.
Him how about auto z calibration 😊
I started to do that a couple of months ago and found it confusing. I think the documentation has gotten better since then. I may look into that.
@@scottcorn i have try it 2 times and i give up and waiting for good guide
Pain to setup for Klicky but once Scott's V0.2 is up and running, he should upgrade his v2 to r2 specs and definitely go Tap! Tap gets first level spot on for me at least, 99.5% of the time. The other .5% is me being impatient and not letting things warm up long enough.
@@jordanstoev1574 I'll see if I can figure it out. I didn't try too hard last time I tried.
@@Invaderjason123 I'm starting back up on the V0.2 this week. I'm spending today cleaning and rearranging my shop. It had become very cluttered. I spend most of my awake hours in it. lol
I can't make the adaptive mesh work... independent of the object to be printed, it covers the total... now in the macro configuration if I disable [include ./klicky-bed-mesh-calibrate.cfg] it doesn't work for me
please your help
Error evaluating 'gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'extras.gcode_macro.GetStatusWrapper object' has no attribute 'gcode_macro _KAMP_Settings'
i am currently followng all your videos. i stumbled on this . maybe you can help me. TIA.
Error evaluating 'gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'extras.gcode_macro.GetStatusWrapper object' has no attribute 'gcode_macro _KAMP_Settings'
did you fix this? i am having the same issue
@@ShaGGYUK I did. This video is outdated. There are other newer videos on UA-cam