Hi, I started myself building the 2.4 i august, but then the switchwire came out and I felt in love. So, although I have the 2.4 frame already I'll postpone it to next year because I can't handle both the xmas season and the 2.4 :)
It looked like you were heading to doing a complete switchwire conversion on your CR-10, with the last thing to do swapping out the leadscrews for the x\z belt system. Instead you opted to do a completely new switchwire build. I haven't watched that video yet to find your reasoning, but I suspect it may be the same I'm currently contemplating, so I'll check it out next to get some inspiration. Great work Ivan, I really like your content! New subscriber. 👍
Hi John, I dont know how you deducted I was planning a CR-10 Switchwire mod, I think I never shared this idea :) I started such project then I abandoned it, because I think the print volume is too big and it will require much longer belts for xz than in the original SW or the Ender mod. Longer belts would decrease the print quality in my opinion, because of more woble/elasticity. I thought 9mm belt would be a solution, but I needed 2nd printer and decided to build a SW instead of modding the CR10. Now I've built also the Voron 2.4 and my CR-10 slowly goes to oblivion... I ended up using it only when I have to print many parts and I share the load between the 3 machines. It is great printer though and I have planned to make a last video for all mods I implemented during its 6 years of service. The original SW is great machine, very simple, reliable and easy to use. I love the Voron 2.4 performance, but I think the SW has better cost/performance ratio. Thanks for subscribing.
Hello Ivan... Always learning something from your videos and enjoy watching them. I couldn't help but notice the interface that was running on what I think is a Pi Screen. Can you tell me exactly what that setup is. I like you run Klipper and now I use Mainsail with a pi screen in kiosk mode. I like your display though. Any help is appreciated. I just saw below that you are using Octodash. Still love your vids.
Hi, thinking of using 2 ssd relays is cool but the issue with that is if one fails, you would never know, and then there will remain only one, and it would be same situation as if there was one ssd relay. So, in fact you are relying on shutoff through software rather than the fuse - which I think should be fine anyways.
I like the video Ivan. I just got a 1300w heated bed for my cr10 S5. It came with a tiny heated bed. No longer waiting 30 min plus for the bed to heat up. I noticed in your video some different types of bed surfaces. I’m curious what you are using. I’m always fighting warping with certain geometry’s at large sizes.
Octodash - it is a monitoring and control software for Octoprint and can do everything you would do from the printer display + it supports some octoprint plugins.
Nice video Ivan, hello from Australia!
I have a Voron 2.4, good to see you're part of the Voron family!
Hi, I started myself building the 2.4 i august, but then the switchwire came out and I felt in love. So, although I have the 2.4 frame already I'll postpone it to next year because I can't handle both the xmas season and the 2.4 :)
Just popped a Keenovo heater on my Voron 2.4 build yesterday 👍
Awesome video! I’ll definitely be referring to this in the future when I upgrade my CR-10S bed.
It looked like you were heading to doing a complete switchwire conversion on your CR-10, with the last thing to do swapping out the leadscrews for the x\z belt system. Instead you opted to do a completely new switchwire build. I haven't watched that video yet to find your reasoning, but I suspect it may be the same I'm currently contemplating, so I'll check it out next to get some inspiration. Great work Ivan, I really like your content! New subscriber. 👍
Hi John, I dont know how you deducted I was planning a CR-10 Switchwire mod, I think I never shared this idea :) I started such project then I abandoned it, because I think the print volume is too big and it will require much longer belts for xz than in the original SW or the Ender mod. Longer belts would decrease the print quality in my opinion, because of more woble/elasticity. I thought 9mm belt would be a solution, but I needed 2nd printer and decided to build a SW instead of modding the CR10. Now I've built also the Voron 2.4 and my CR-10 slowly goes to oblivion... I ended up using it only when I have to print many parts and I share the load between the 3 machines. It is great printer though and I have planned to make a last video for all mods I implemented during its 6 years of service.
The original SW is great machine, very simple, reliable and easy to use. I love the Voron 2.4 performance, but I think the SW has better cost/performance ratio.
Thanks for subscribing.
Hello Ivan... Always learning something from your videos and enjoy watching them. I couldn't help but notice the interface that was running on what I think is a Pi Screen. Can you tell me exactly what that setup is. I like you run Klipper and now I use Mainsail with a pi screen in kiosk mode. I like your display though. Any help is appreciated. I just saw below that you are using Octodash. Still love your vids.
wait why did you get relays? how are we supposed to know how to hook those up? Which way does the electricity run through them and where does it stop?
Hi, thinking of using 2 ssd relays is cool but the issue with that is if one fails, you would never know, and then there will remain only one, and it would be same situation as if there was one ssd relay. So, in fact you are relying on shutoff through software rather than the fuse - which I think should be fine anyways.
can i make ahole or resize my 40*40 silicone heated bed to 40*30 ?
I like the video Ivan. I just got a 1300w heated bed for my cr10 S5. It came with a tiny heated bed. No longer waiting 30 min plus for the bed to heat up.
I noticed in your video some different types of bed surfaces. I’m curious what you are using. I’m always fighting warping with certain geometry’s at large sizes.
What software are you using on the touch screen?
Octodash - it is a monitoring and control software for Octoprint and can do everything you would do from the printer display + it supports some octoprint plugins.