Why Did Men Stop Wearing Cuffed Pants (Trousers)?
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2024
- The reason behind the decline of cuffed pants/trousers in classic menswear: gentl.mn/men-stop-wearing-cuf...
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00:00 Cuffed Pants/Trousers: Introduction
To cuff or not to cuff, that’s been the question men have been asking for over a century now when it comes to their trousers. In recent history, however, the current trend has been to opt for a straight hem. This wasn’t always the case. In fact, most men during the Golden Age of Menswear would opt for a cuff, which was also known as turn-ups, for most of their trousers.
01:23 History of Cuffs & Turnups
The idea of adding cuffs to the bottom half of your outfit has been something popularized since the medieval era. However, we didn’t start regularly seeing this on pants until around the 1890s.
Cuffs on trousers soon became the preferred fashion for most men going into the early 20th century. Despite their popularity in the 20s and 30s, trouser cuffs were one of the victims of cloth rationing during WW2, where men became used to having trousers without them to support the war efforts.
05:45 Why Men Stopped: 1. Dated Appearance
07:16 2. Perceived Proportionality
08:30 3. Styling Confusion
09:53 4. Confusing Formality
11:59 5. Bulkier Silhouette
12:33 6. Cost
Like with so many other items within classic menswear, just because cuffs are currently not in mainstream fashion, it doesn’t mean they can’t work for you. In fact, many of us at the Gentleman’s Gazette prefer this style of pants, and couldn’t imagine not at least owning one pair of pants with a cuff.
15:28 Outfit Rundown
#cuffs #trousers #notsponsored - Навчання та стиль
Every time I get something tailored and I say I want cuffs on suits/pants, the tailor is always surprised. And then when I say I want medium break/as close to no break it’s even more surprising and usually leads to a discussion. I never realized how much history was behind cuffs, or how so many people stopped getting them. Aside from the really slim/skinny suits, not having cuffs on a suit looks really strange to me.
Yes, finding a good tailor who wants to do things a certain way is a challenge now, too.
I had the EXACT same sequence of events with a pair of trousers I just got tailored, down to the surprise with the break amount.
Ok boomer.
My tailor was 75 years old and during my university days I always used to get cuffs and he just loved that , I got many blazers and pants tailored by him he absolutely loved stitching for me , he was also an antique collector, great guy RIP
@@timyboy86my tailor was surprised that a young chap like me insisted in getting cuffs.
Detectives in novels and crime films often found traces such as sand or sawdust in those cuffs
that's a very good reason not to wear them cuffs on yer pants methinks. 😏
The stylish swing that a cuffed trousers has when walking can't be beaten.
Love these trousers. I made a pair for myself back in the 80's when I was in costume class for theatre. The teacher thought I was nuts because plaid is difficult, wool is difficult, but I managed to match the pattern into the pocket so it all lined up perfectly. They had pleats, a slight taper in the leg, cuffs, and a very similar pattern to yours. Unfortunately, i grew out of them and they did not fit anymore. I gave them to a friend.
Thats awesome. Not many people are that daring.
I love cuffs on my dress pants, especially on heavier fabric, even though nowadays I just buy rtw. I don't know, where and when I was growing up, cuffs were associated with more formal pants. Nowadays, I agree that it's rare to find cuffs. I brought some new dress pants I had to a clothes altering company to get them cut and cuffed, and none of their young seamstresses knew what a cuff was lol. I had do show them what it looked like in Google. Nevertheless, in the end they got it right :).
Isn’t it odd to see dress slacks without cuffs? It just feels…. idk….. wrong. Lol
Whether or not I have cuffs is based on the pants, and on which shoes I will wear them with. For example, cuffs do not look good with chelsea boots, in my opinion. But I am with you in the general appreciation for how cuffs help the pants drape.
I agree. It depends on the physique of the man, the footwear choice, and the look you want to achieve.
Yeah, cuff is more a boot thing usually for me too
@@Ali_Saracen I don't care for cuffs when wearing boots.
I love cuffs on my pants! I'm a tall guy so I can afford to shorten the leg line a bit. Sam with pleats, I have large thighs and bum for my waist, so the extra fabric really helps the fit work for me. Plus its fun to be a bit different from the mainstream.
Haha😂you said bum!
It depends on the suit. Some suits I have cuffs some I leave as a plain break, I do love the cuff look though, I usually get good comments on my suits that have the cuffs or people are surprised that I have my pants cuffed. I go up to a 2" cuff which suits me better. Thanks for sharing the history of the suit cuffs! Your videos are always a great source of information! 😁
Having been watching a lot of your videos, seeing thing from 5, 7 or 8 years ago, seeing this pop up with a 5 months ago tag is wild. I love that you have been able to spread all this great knowledge through the years. Even seeing how some things have changed slightly, such as how there is a confusion with cuffs, when really old videos said they were thought of a formal, now its changing back to formal since people dont' see them in sweatpants and so on!
I put myself through school working at a suit store and I still wear suits or dress pants and a jacket at least 3-4 days a week. Because of that absolutely wonderful experience in the tailor shop and selling suits, etc to this day, I don’t feel comfortable in a suit without cuffs, let alone pants without at least one or two pleats lol. Wonderful video. Subscribed.
I enjoy your videos but would like to see one on braces/suspenders.
It's on the list!
I had a dream last night I was wearing cuffed trousers again!😂😂 Then you release this video hours later!😊
I thought I recognized that tie, I wore that exact tie today! I wore it with a light blue dress shirt and a navy sweater
Sounds like a great ensemble!
There wasn't a did-you-know video where Raphael was talking himself for a long time, finally!
Video on cuffs as the cuffing season is approaching. Nice!
Yesssss another one great vidéo pf sartorial tutoriels , thank u Raphaël
Vielen Dank, Raphael und an Alle die daran mitgearbeitet haben.
Das Video ist viel länger, als ich erwartet hätte. Da ich nicht sehr groß bin, jedoch überwiegend Hosen mit Umschlag-Saum trage, fand ich den Tipp mit den Proportionen des Umschlag-Saums sehr hilfreich.
Vielen Dank auch an die geschichtliche Exkursion - ist bestimmt sehr zeitaufwändig.
I have always had slacks, suit pants, and khakis that were pleated and cuffed. For some reason a straight pant leg doesn’t look dressy to me. I was disappointed that LL Bean stopped offering a cuffed khaki as their pleated wrinkle free khakis are my favorite.
Meanwhile the Military uses a ‘Boot Band’, a kind of elastic anklet that keeps their BDU pants ‘bloused’ (cuffed tight) to the top to keep the sand out of their combat boots 🥾
I appreciate that, GG! just perfect.
As some one who wore extremely baggy pants with the bottoms cuffed most of my life I can say that the most annoying part is coming in from the snow and having to get the snow out.
Not to mention fluff!
Love to see Rafael presenting one of the vids again, brings back the channel's beginnings vibe. ❤️🔥👍
All of our hosts film an equal amount! 🙂
I used to wear turned up jeans in my rocker days, but of course that's not the same as cuffs on dressier slacks. Thanks to GG, I've been opting for cuffs on my pants instead of a clean hem for years now, even though I am on the shorter side. I just like the drape so much. No tugging on the leg when standing up after sitting a while, at most a nonchalant, little shake of the foot to get the pant leg back down again. Also, I like the more "classic" optics of it.
On a sidenote, it must feel great to be dressed literally from neck to toe in items from your own line of classic men's wear.
I was thinking during this video I'd never heard 'turnups' until I read this. The old folks always called our jeans turned-up. Haha, thanks for the memory!
I also think cuffs are coming back as more men want to show off their footwear these days.
Great history lesson...need a new video on pleated and reverse pleated pants next! (PS love your Eaton shirt, tie and blue blazer choice today!)
Recently my tailor in Kyiv was also surprised that I wanted cuffs. He used the excuse that there was not enough material in the leg to create turn-ups, I was not convinced 😂 love pleats
I had my trousers done yesterday. 2 inch cuff no break. I've loved cuffs since I was a child. It separates you from the rest,and it looks better
Great show, the angled cut is often called a West Point cut, popular in the military. I use cuff on all suits and slacks that I wear with a dress shirt. Style and manners are not ‘old school’ it the mark of gentleman. Keep up the great show!
I think cuffs are genuinely making a comeback. I buy a lot of what's referred to as RTW "greyman techwear" pants. I.e. more technical pants that offer great durability, water resistance, and flexibility; while still maintaining the look of more classic "smart trousers". In a lot of adverts and look-books, you see the models wearing their their "greyman" pants cuffed over a wide variety of footwear, often with a full break or half break. I'm not a tall guy (5'9" or 175cm) so when I buy trousers (usually high-rise) that only come in one inseam length, I wear a 2.5" cuff, half break pretty much universally, and I think it looks quite flattering. However, that's in thanks to the fabric and cut of the trousers "working" with my body type quite well to begin with.
I love tech wear grey man pants for allowing me to both enjoy cycling and the formality of a dress pant or chino like pant. My only issue with them is that they do not wash as a well, as sediments sit tightly within the synthetic weave thus forcing multiple washes. But they are so easy to re-wear and be active. They are super easy to either have cuffed or my preference is just fold over for the appearance of cuffs or pinwheel cuff for a more modern and youthful aesthetic.
Glad you added "trousers" in your title. As an Englishman "pants" means underwear to me.
And I'm a cuffs/turnup fan, but trousers today aren't sold with them unfortunately.
That's funny because currently my pants are cuffed. Same with the jeans I wore on Saturday although I did finally hem them so I don't have to roll them up anymore
I find it hard to find pants with pleats and cuffs, both of which I prefer. ❤ Especially on my khakis.
Love the good old turnups
Great subject Sven,
1-1/2" is what I go with.
Suits with no cuffs. Chinos, cords and jeans no cuffs. Full cut, high waisted, pleated wool trousers get cuffs just landing on the shoe laces.. Always worn with braces. No clip on suspenders please.
Perfect answer, cuff is the most underrate element in menswear. Especially for people who are indecisive about the length, it would be a safer option not to overcut the length.
At Spier & Mackay, as I'm sure other sites do, they offer to finish the hem in a cuff (for an extra fee of course) on top of their hemming service.
Love this…Also was always told it was a French cuff…looks so sharp
I love cuffs. I’m a boys size 14 so it’s really difficult to find good suits, let alone ones that have/will take cuffs. Someday when I’m big enough to fit into a mens suit, I’ll get one with cuffs because I love the look. I also dress 1910s and ‘20s style, so it really fits the look.
When you gonna allow comments on your vids? Why don't you now?
You could buy your pants a bit longer and take them to a seamstress. Adding cuffs is not very difficult - you could even look for instructions on UA-cam and try it yourself (on an old pair first): altering your own clothes is a very handy skill!
A lot of folks start a fine hobby of sewing or altering their own clothing because they are of non-standard sizes or shapes and have low budgets. There are great instructional videos on UA-cam, with lovely communities that are encouraging if that appeals to you
I heard stories of high school students wearing jeans with generously sized cuffs that tgey coukd hide some tin foil in and sneakily use as an ash tray. I don’t know if it was a wide spread thing, but it's a story my dad told of the time, and the talk of cuffs sparked tge memory
Its really nice to see Raphael hosting a video
i recently got a 2 piece db suit from a charity shop and got it altered. the trousers have a full break, perhaps a bit much. i definitely want cuffs adding now! :)
Those new cordouroy trousers are stunning, can't wait to get a pair for Christmas! 😉
Glad to hear you like them! Which color are you thinking of getting?
@@gentlemansgazette there's too many to choose from but probably something versatile like midnight blue or khaki and then a really stand outish colour likegarnet red or sage! Leaning more.towardw red for Christmas though!
My friend told me her great grandfather worked at mccormick's spice in baltimore.
All the workers turn their coughs up extra high
They would collect the spice throughout the day
With the abundance of the chesapeake baby right there they used it for their dinner
They would trade it amongst themselves as to what each other had acquired
And that's how old Bay and JO were invented
people used to have their own blends from the cuffs!
Interesting points re: the history section. I know this is going to be specific to the US but here in the UK I don't think turnups ever really stopped being popular in the 60s & 70s, but I suppose it was more specific to jeans as formal trousers became more often plain hemmed. People here even wore turnups on their flares! There were even trends involving huge turnups on wide legged jeans & my mother used to hem both her own & later my father's jeans with turnups (the added centre crease on the jeans was even more 70s)
Wow, I never had or saw flares with cuffs when I was a kid in the 70s ... or maybe I just plain forgot, we were usually in a hazy, dazed and confused state after all in those days.
@@gritsteel4559 There's some amazing photographs from about 1975-6 with kids - boys & girls, wearing flares with turnups. I think a lot of those pictures I've seen were from the North of England & smaller towns & cities. I'm pretty sure I've seen a picture of Roger Daltrey wearing flares with turnups & a pair of white Kickers... but the turnups are probably because he's about 5ft 5
I loved this❤️
I love to have 2 pleats along with 2.5 inch cuff on the pants . Majority of my wardrobe are filwith these. I just like the way they look when we are walking. Only thing is i m not daring to eat suspenders just because of the fear that I may look out of place as people almost forgeot that there exists some thing like that.
Even though I know that I can’t wear those , I keep installing braces buttons for all of my pants😂😂😂😂
Should have referenced the no cuffs scene with Fred Astaire in Swing Time (1936)
I remember growing up in the 80’s my taylor always recommended cuffs and throughout the 90’s. It was in the early 2000’s the recommended me to stop wear cuffs. I remember my manager freaked out when I stopped wearing my pants with cuffs. 😅
For me it depends on how long the trouser leg is on me when I buy them. When I used to wear uniforms for work, I would cuff them (unless the company had a rule on it).
The other thing too you should mention is most people don't have a sewing machine anymore. Preferring to use this like fabric tape to glue the excess material inside the leg.
I was a chubby kid so the pants in my size where usually too long for me. My mom would hem them but she would also cuff them to keep some of the fabric around just in case. When my proportions changed, I just continued on habit.
I just purchased 3 Hart Schaffner Marx suits, pleats & cuffs always for me since 1985. I appreciate the extra ball room!
For me its more practical... one leg is a little shorter than the other and i have the tendancy to walk on the border of the pants so cuffing it up protects my pants from dirtying and breaking ... plus its stylish elegance
The dated appearance is exactly why I like them.
Indeed, and I just bought some bell-bottom pants (called cut-bray these days), but I won't have cuffs for them :)
@@gritsteel4559got something _a-comin'_ for Saturday night 🤒? 😏
What about the inside seam. Won’t you see that with a cuff. It’ll look weird ?
@Fush1234 it's why tailored pants aren't finished at the bottom hem,it's not a rolled hem as such more of pleat that is then finished on the inside of the pants
I still wear cuffed trousers. I work in the legal profession in the USA, (not a lawyer, deposition videographer), and I’ve always observed what lawyers wear. I dress old school because most lawyers and other professionals do. I try to blend in at a classy office and stand out in a casual office. Pinpoint cotton button down shirts, black wingtips or brown loafers, well shined. I keep it simple but still professional.
*I JUST MADE A PAIR OF OXFORD BAGGS WIHT CUFFS* literally last week, the first pair of trousers I have made with cuffs in 4 years...
I don’t really understand the post or the comments. Dress pants are sold without hem, you are supposed to choose the type of hem you like. It has been my experience that some stores don’t allow cuff with slim pants. Jeans are different the store will always preserve the finishing I do not recommend to alter jeans with a Taylor.
A big fan of turn-ups, and make sure to get cuffed/clean hemmed trouser options whenever I get a new sports jacket or blazer. Peak career, I would follow a style that is best represented by Daniel Craig’s Tom Ford suits in Quantum of Solace and Skyfall. Boggled the mind of tailors 😁. Had the good fortune to go from the foster care system to a family that dressed me at Brooks Brothers. When I could afford good clothing on my own, I paid for quality, and got a copy of Dressing the Man 🤙
As a woman- I love watching your videos. I am PRO CUFF, if it matters!
I love having cuffed pants, particularly on a nice pair of cords. That said, I would really like to see a review of the best/most durable men’s trouser manufactures. I purchased 3 pairs of Berle tailored trousers in the spring, and while they fit great, the fabric failed after only about 30 wearings.
The last cuffed trousers I had 🇬🇧 was in 1969: a pair of cuffed “hipsters” paired with a “mini jumper”. That changed to patched levis and dyed grandad vests. Shock horror!
I am 61 years old and I love wearing 2” cuffs on everything but my suit pants.
I've been selling Men Clothing for over 40 years in the last 5 years with the popularity of slim fit suits about 70% of my customers wear plain hems and it's mostly my older clientele who like cuffs ...most of pants we carry are unhemed and I have a in-house tailor to accommodate all tastes 👍
Slim fit anything is an abomination to me.
It was kind of funny to hear you talk about the extra weight of cuffs. I've been thinking that through the whole video, and then you brought it up.
I would say my style is very similar to Rafael's. I have cuffs on all of my trousers and suits pants (as well as pleats and a high rise). The cuff size ranges from 1.5 - 2 inches. I have come to favor two inches lately, but I really enjoy a 1.75 inch cuff. I think it stands out in a positive way. It is a large cuff, but not too large. It carries a substantial look. @Gentleman's Gazette - Can I ask why the prototype pants Rafael has on have a single pleat vs. 2 pleats? I am curious, because I remember Rafael mentioning in a prior video that he favors the two pleat style. Congratulations on another excellent video!
We want to test every possibility when making prototypes so we can offer you the best result - for examples, our corduroy pants are flat fronted because pleats look too bulky, and the pants in the video we tried with a single pleat over double pleats. Feedback is always helpful!
@@gentlemansgazette Thank you for responding! I was simply curious. I personally do prefer two pleats!
I always have my tailored suit trousers cuffed....ever since the late 1980s when a college internship had a strict dress code.. Got a new suit for a job interview 3 years ago and requested the cuffs...no problem at all. Just feels more like a finished look for me.
3:09
3:23 if only you had said that the trend didn't hold up haha that would have been the pun Preston might have written
Pleats and cuffs seem to be linked in that pleats generally, but not always means a full trouser opening which tends to then look better with cuffs. I would think cuffs on either a tapered or narrow leg looks wrong but on a wider or at least more parallel leg opening, they look better.
We cuffed our jeans in high school in the early and mid 90s. Ordinary cuff and this wrap around style for a tight fit cuff.
Reading "GQ&A" crystallized my style and all my dress pants have cuffs whether they're in fashion or not.
Those are my favorite!
I've been considering going back to the cuffs for a few years now
I greet you respected sir. I love what you and your team put out there. In my office I am the only one who wears trousers with cuffs. I tailor mine in a way my socks won't show. I have learnt a lot from your team. Do you consider yourself to be a Sapeur?
Always hem my trousers with 2 inch cuffs ever since I got into the classic style. I just think it looks better than trousers legs flying around with no weights. Besides, the fact no one else does it makes it easy to stand out just by having them.
All of my suit pants, and most of my chinos have cuffs (1.5 inches). And pleats. Love 'em.
All of us in the fine menswear industry wear pleats and cuffs again. They're amazing.
I really love cuffed trousers. I would say, that about half of my trousers have cuffs. Here in Vienna they are sometimes called "Stulpe", but not many people know what that means (besides my tailor), so usually I use the official name "Krempe", when people ask.
I like to have 1.5" cuffs with high-raise pleated trousers. They seem to work best together
I’ve taken to sewing a leather piece on the heal side of the trouser, as it’s a place of wear, on longer pants, and in canada 🇨🇦 longer is better, it does look nice too. Sort of a back half cuff.
Cuffs/turn-ups and pleats whenever possible, but they do not work on slim-fitting pants/trousers. l suspect cost is a factor in their demise as more fabric means a higher price. Good tailoring is no longer a common feature in mens clothing.
10:35 Rafael actually looks great in that outfit. I don't think he has ever looked more german 😂
Interesting enough, the cuffed pants are the most common in where in (but also the square toe dress shoes so…)
I would love to see Raphael in Berlin, can you make a video about a shopping/thrift-shopping tour in Berlin?
We've got something you'll be interested in coming up soon - stay tuned!
I still do!
Love it
On the prototype pants, from my own experience I don't like having a hook instead of a button at the edge as it always feels unstable and pulls at an angle, might want to think about that.
I still use them. It depends on The material. If its a Nonheavy material as linen I use cuffs. It gives more gravity to The trousers.
I still have some cuffed pants. I prefer cuffed pants and I always thought of them as more formal, I guess I was wrong. On my last suit I got my pants with pleats, but uncuffed.
I haven't; still have pleats in my trousers, too.
Sometimes I opt for cuffs and sometimes I dont
I'm wearing cuffed pants now have been for years. Bought them in Boscov's off the rack.
Yes I wear cuffs ( 1 & 3/4 inch ) on most trousers.
I must be a Dinosaur ! I still have my suit pants and slacks tailored with a 1 inch cuff.
I only wear custom made suits and everyone has cuffs and 1 pleat…and some of these were made in the last 3 years. I like the style and get complimented on my wardrobe all the time. Wear what you like, especially with in reason.
Love your videos but I have a question: I'm about to purchase my first double-breasted black tuxedo suit. Is cuffed pants appropriate? All of my dress pants/suits have cuff's, I do like the classic look. As an additional follow-up question: The first use is a Christmas event at a formal event (hence the blacktie event). Since it is the holidays (serious question), would a holiday themed bowtie (red santa, or similar style) be appropriate? Thanks again for your videos.
Love them. They give gravitas and just make the trousers look better.
I love cuffs. The industry just stopped making them. I think it's just cheaper to avoid it or let the customer do it themselves to their leg length.
I never cared for cuffs. They dont look good on me and they're a pain to maintain. Cary Grant, even though he wore a lot of cuffed pants in his films, said he didn't prefer them as they catch a bit of dust and get caught on things.
I prefer slanted plain hems as they are timeless and clean looking, and they would have little weights sewn into the hems to make them drape better. As for pleats, I prefer double forward pleats or flat fronted depending on what works best.
Thanks for the trouser acknowledgement 😂
Cuffing selvedge jeans inside out to show off the striped seam inside is an interesting new development.
I have always been a huge fan of pleats and cuffs. The mid 2000's was a bleak era in men's pants. Not a pleat to be found and I had to get every pair of dress pants both too big and long and then tailored. Thankfully, they are coming back. I prefer a clean break at the top off the shoe. For years everyone but me looked like they ran out of money when buying material for their clothes. However, I am cycling back into fashion acceptability.
Cuffs are not something I am looking for in pants but if they have it anyway I will wear them.
Cuffs were popular back in late 80s when in high school
Cuffs on men's trousers are, to me, just neat and tidy. Cuffs look much better than a straight pant leg. Loved this video. From the Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers film, "Swing Time"1936 "What..? No cuffs..?" In the film, Fred's "pals" were sore because he was leaving their dancing troupe to get married. They sabotaged his wedding, making him extremely late. One of the diversions was drawing cuffs on a wedding suit in a latest men's fashion magazine. They were all in on it and convinced poor Fred that cuffs on that particular dress were "in". But of course, Fred's name in the film is, "Lucky" and boy is he ever! I won't spoil...😁
Cuffed trousers should have a slight break over the shoe. Cuffed trousers without a break or even worse at ankle length look ridiculous.
@@waltersickinger1499 Whatever. Suit yourself. I LOVE cuffs at the ankle, oh well, to each his own!😉