***USEFUL 3D PRINTING INFO*** Guide to Resin Printing doc.mango3d.io/doc/j3d-tech-s-guide-to-resin-printing/ Validation Matix - aka useful printing test thingy www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289 USEFUL CHANNELS Once In A Six Side - www.youtube.com/@OnceinaSixSide/videos For Supports and Islands info: Vogman - ua-cam.com/video/MU0Cq_bjhy4/v-deo.htmlsi=XiXbz2lAuxomjwFh For Easy beginner tips: Edward Peake - ua-cam.com/video/6HeBpAnBPc8/v-deo.htmlsi=FWF9ihjk8DSkOdfn ***ELEGOO LINKS*** ELEGOO Mars 4 Ultra on Amazon: (US)www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5JLSZ3M?maas=maas_adg_EEF80243E913E43EED0EA9548ED08773_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas (UK)www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CCS37H5Q?maas=maas_adg_E9E8279C4A54F925954FC74CF3E1A028_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas (CA)www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C5WYK11J?maas=maas_adg_A4B454B7B7DAB877ADC4D70B35B1E477_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas ELEGOO Mercury wash/cure Station: (US)www.amazon.com/dp/B08626WF87?maas=maas_adg_D8CBED2181A5ABFC9B92ED2ABBB93B77_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas (UK)www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09B3JNGQ5?maas=maas_adg_F75074DB2084C6F24121CBBA231CEA41_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas (CA)www.amazon.ca/dp/B08CMLBK44?maas=maas_adg_4CEFFA9483145EBF849C9A3AAB79C30E_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas ELEGOO Standard Resin: (US)www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z986566?maas=maas_adg_C47185F3446638A5809C4C34F8C6D4D5_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas (UK)www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z97WW9W?maas=maas_adg_061BB63CB28D669AB2C4EB853DD5BAAA_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas (CA)www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Z9MFS8C?maas=maas_adg_6868F89155A0B26EDA7A2548FBFBD571_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
I would love to see a follow up version with Rob's guidance. This sort of honest newcomer approach is so useful, but a second video of a vet going 'well heres where you went wrong' would be sooooo cool.
Peach says he'd like to do a second one covering some of the things he's learnt and he'll definitely be printing out those Brunswickers he's so passionate about! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I'd recommend Once in A Six Side's youtube channel for 3D printing info. He has a very down to earth approach, and has a very good "all you need to know" video that starts from setting up the printer through to cleaning up the finished models. I found it very helpful
A good use for the support material is to chuck it in a £10 Tesco herb grinder and blend it up for basing material, less likely to come off than sand, lighter and takes paint better.
For cleaning your fep after a failed print.. Place old supports in a corner of the Vat.. now you can easily remove the cured resin sheet by pulling the supports up.
Once in a six side is where you want to head to on UA-cam. My top tip: just because a creator says its pre-supported - is in no way the same as them saying "hey, i manually pre-supported this and printed it to tested it". Lots of great 3d artists out there, and far too many are just clicking "auto support" and hoping for the best. Back to once in a six side, he has a very good, maybe 40 min video, showing how to support miniatures properly. Night and day difference between a properly supported one and those that are under / over supported.
i'd recommend getting something like this for your washing station. It helps avoid little bits of resin/supports fall to the bottom - Rectangle Colander Basket Stainless Steel Wire Basket Fine Mesh. i did exactly same as you and pierced the film. was a learning lesson for sure. you've done the best way possible by learning by doing!
Curing is a lot easier than it seems. One of the biggest things I see new users misunderstand is thinking that it needs to cure inside the model, so it needs longer. (I'm ignoring hollowed models for now). Your printer's job is to cure resin, so everything that has been printed, inside to out, is already cured. The only thing your curing station/process needs to do is cure any leftover resin so it's safe to handle. If your wash game was perfect (it never is) then all excess resin would be washed off by the isopropyl alcohol and you wouldn't need to cure at all. That in mind, a big monster should only really need the same as a 28mm mini to cure. The lights in a curing station are designed to work effectively to the full height of the unit. The only thing you might need to do with a bigger figure is rotate it halfway through to ensure light gets to all the nooks and crannies. Hope that helps! Edited to add: when you removed the rook from the plate, you had the plate on its back. With time or frustration, that will knock your levelling screws out and you'll have to relevel or suffer misprints. Try placing the longer edge down onto the table and scrape down. That shouldn't affect it as much.
Hello! I've been printing for a few years now, and never cure the models with the supports on. Uncured supports peel off pretty easily as they aren't brittle, and you get the UV across the model more evenly. I pop the plate with the prints into the wash station, wash it all up, let it dry, and then peel the models off of the supports before curing. I've also gone to a heap of effort to use the lightest supports I can and still get a clean print. That, or I find suppliers whose supports are nicely done, which can be hit and miss.
Great video, just keep safety in mind when it comes to resin as the fumes are pretty toxic and the filter that the printer comes with only helps with the smell
I'v been printing for about a year and a half now and my fep broke for the first time yesterday. Wasnt looking forward to changing it but if Peachy can change it it that easily then i'm less worried now 😅 Before i bought a printer i watched a good few of the popular 3d printing youtuber channels. One of the common things that came up was get a bigger print bed rather than say an 18u printer so i bought a Mars 4 Max. This advice is 100% true and i'm glad i bought the bigger printer. The other thing i found is i personally much prefer Lychee. You can have different profiles for the same printer so i have a 50u setting without anti aliasing for printing say terrain or vehicles and something like a 34u setting using anti aliasing for troops and much more detailed prints.
@PeachyTips I love that I now have a backlog of your videos to go through. Keep it up! But also, don't feel like you need to edit until 3 am. Take care of yourself
I've been meaning to make an absolute beginners guide to resin printing video because as you said on Juggz a lot of people assume the viewers have some knowledge. In regards to the bit about Chitubox and not slicing all of the miniatures, you do not need to select them all to slice it. When Chitubox slices your files it takes a screenshot of itself and only one was blue because that's all you had selected BUT it would still slice the whole plate regardless of how many miniatures are selected or not. I hope that makes sense and apologies if someone else has already said this
This makes perfect sense, and thank you for clarifying that, as I’m still super new and very naive to this new tech world, having someone with more experiance doing a beginners guide for dummies (I’m definitely a dummy lol) would be super helpful.
My tips would be: Please please please use well ventilated area with a decent respirator 🤞 gently warm the resin with a heat gun or hairdryer before printing (25-30’c, laser thermometer helps) also water washable doesn’t mean wash in the sink and off it goes down the plug hole. Water washable is still highly toxic. And water should either be taken to a recycling plant or allowed to evaporate before disposal of the left over cured resin sludge. Great video look forward to seeing more 🙏🙌❤
I love the angle you've taken with your video, Peachy. I've been printing for a while, but my initial experience mirrored your own, trying to figure it out as I go with both successes and failures. Hell, I keep forgetting to set home when I'm leveling my plate. I think showing mistakes is important for newbies and is endearing for those of us who have experienced the same stumbling blocks.
Thanks Peachy for making this video 👍 - it was great to see things from a novices perspective as that is what I would be 🤓 It looks a lot less scarier now but I have to admit I think I would go down the FDM printer route instead which doesn't need all that cleaning, curing etc 😬
Don't let Peach put you off, in fairness, he struggles to figure out how the washing machine works so although it was a steep learning curve the machine itself was pretty straight forward to use 😀 Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Another tip, when you're doing the vat clean (I only run one when I get misprints, rather than every time), keep one of the bigger support trees that have just printed and hold it down in a corner while it does the vat exposure. Then, you can use that as a handle to peel up the layer rather than using any spatula at all.
I’ve had 3 printers so far. It wasn’t at all *easy* until I got the Saturn 4 Ultra. Now with all the quality of life upgrades, it’s as close to plug and play as I’ve ever seen. HUGE jump in ease of use.
Great video, Peachy! I LOVE this approach of "watch all my mistakes" because it shows it from a really down to earth, more approachable angle! Getting your settings dialed in on a printer is the most important part, and once you know what you're doing it's quite straight forward, but there is a bit of knowledge you need to be able to look at the test file prints and understand what they mean. The big three common problems I see from new folks; - My models didn't print but the rafts (the shapes all the supports come out of) are stuck to the FEP film or the print bed. This probably means your *bottom exposure* settings are off. The first few layers of a print are exposed to light for longer than the rest of the print, so getting that setting "wrong" can cause weird adhesion problems. - The supports all printed by the model didn't. This probably means your exposure isn't high enough for the supports you are using. You either need a longer exposure time, or thicker/more robust supports depending on the result you're looking for. - Some models printed but others didn't. 9 times out of 10 this is because the bed needs to be relevelled. As a general rule of thumb, any time you have a problem of any sort with a resin printer, relevel the bed because so often that will just fix the issue, even if it's one of the above issues. In terms of channels to learn from, 3D Printing Pro is my favourite as its really focused on printing minis a lot of the time.
Many thanks Anto for sharing this super useful information with the community, we're sure folks will find it really helpful (I know Mr Peach has)! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I haven't got a resin printer (yet), as I've not got anywhere I can use it, such as a workshop or shed. Though I've had an FDM printer for a while and use that for printing busts...which I can then paint, and your painting tips come in really helpful.
Thanks for this honest video- every video I’ve seen is so obviously knee-deep in the hobby and the gloss over things that seem super complicated. I would like to get into it one day but space is too much of an issue, not to mention that I already have enough of a grey pile of shame enough as it is!!!
We're super glad you enjoyed the video! Peach always prefers to share the honest journey so that others can learn from his mistakes and hopefully get some helpful tips along the way! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I wish I could offer advice to you... I picked up a Saturn 4 Ultra a few months back and I've had one print fail. The prints are smooth and exceptionally detailed, and while I started very nervous and anxiety-wracked I feel pretty fearless now. Things used to break if I was being a bit rough removing the support trees, but a second rinse in some hot water fixed this. I can get the thinnest structures free with almost no force... so give your prints a nice bath! Good luck on your printing adventure, dude.
This is why I love your videos. Totally honest including when you make mistakes and let's be honest how many of us actually ever read all the instructions!
Thanks Peachy. I've ordered my Elegoo just this afternoon after waiting for many months. Having watched you with yours it's made me a little less apprehensive
Awesome! It’s the settings that’s been the head scratcher for me, but that seems quite normal, and the channel Once in a Six side has been recommended loads for that
Cure your supports before disposal but keep some of them. When doing a tank clean, stand one of the supports in the corner of the tank first. This will basically give you a tab/handle to pull the cured layer out. 3D Printing Pro has very good tips for doing supports.
i think i have very similar issues as you with getting started with 3d printing and it all seeming a bit too much to deal with. ive watched plenty of videos on getting started with it, but this is the first video ive seen that actually makes me feel like i COULD do it
Hey Peach, Chitubox has a section where you can input what resin you're using and I believe, if memory serves, it auto does optimal settings based on the resin. I use Phrozen's 8k Resin and I've never had an issue, never had to change or fiddle with settings.
Got myself an Elegoo Saturn 2 last year, got it all set up inside an enclosure and exhaust fan rigged up out the window. Best investment I've made as far as the miniature hobby goes. Just printed myself an incredible Death Guard predator annihilator last night. Finally pulled the trigger and bought a second printer, fdm this time
Super pleased you like this-Peach likes to take the 'warts n all' approach to his videos, to show that mistakes are okay, we're all human and then showing how he overcomes them. In all honesty, he struggles to operate the washing machine so he was very anxious about trying out a 3D printer (they definitely are fickle beasts 😆)! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I've purchased an Elegoo printer and curing station but have yet to print for fear of mucking up. Thanks for this video, it's making me feel better about starting.
One tip for the tank cleaning: Removing the sheet of resin can be a pain, as you noticed. You can stick a bit of support back into the vat so that the sheet will be fused with the support. This gives you something to grab onto to remove the sheet, ideally not having to touch the film with any tools at all. Replacing the film is always a miserable faff.
From someone who is considering getting into 3D printing, may I thank you for going first. Your video has given me loads to think about and research. I have dyslexia, so manuals are not my favourite way to learn how to use something. Picking up tips from videos such as yours is my preferred method. I feel I would have run into most of the problems you encountered and more. Thanks Peachy.
There’s still tons for me to learn, certainly if the comments section is anything to go by 😂 but like you I’m dyslexic too….and as such I bloody hate manuals lol. But I was surprised on how well everything was explained and diagramed etc Love ya bud 🫶🫶🫶 Peachy
Congrats on your new hobby! Try the "table test" - push the model off the table edge onto a hardwood floor to see if it breaks. Elegoo ABS-like resin is all I use anymore. Same detail as far as I can tell, and way more durable. I tried the ABS-like V3.0 because it's cheaper and the print quality was fine but I left it in the vat for a few days and it gelled up. The regular ABS-like and V2.0 don't do that, so worth the extra expense IMO.
I wondered where you were going with pushing things off the table for a minute 😆! This is super useful advice, many thanks for sharing Cam Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
One page rules have free stl files (minis) that are presupported, with top tier suports. You can get them from my mini factory and they are great to use as test prints for when you"ve got your settings dailed in, because you can get failers due to bad supports. This way you can check to see if its your settings or the mini your trying to print thats causing you issues
Peach, welcome to the club! There are two videos that were extremely helpful in my learning journey. One you already watched with was Edward Peak’s video. The other is Nerdtronics’s “Why resin 3D prints fail.” There is so much misinformation and misunderstanding on guides online, which is understandable because it’s a complex topic, but the Nerdtronic video (plus tons of learning from my mistakes) helped me understand why people recommend certain things and, more importantly, understand when those recommendations no longer applied. Like you don’t need to tilt everything by 30/45/60 degrees. There is nothing magical about those numbers (sorta). You tilt to reduce stress on the model while being pulled up and down. Etc etc… Love the videos, peach!
Oh I forgot to explain. The nerdtronic video explains physically what is happening when some prints fail and why supports are needed. As you print, you will get some WEIRD print failures, like random holes/divots or pieces shifting/breaking off. But it can usually be traced to me not accounting for the stresses/strains on the model while being printed. Anyway, this video would have saved me hours of frustration had I only found it earlier.
Love you peachy, glad you have taken the leap hope you continue having fun. I am nearly up to 2 years with a Mars 2 printer and have made so many mistakes but not killed the printer yet (You get more confidence with replacing film etc after the first few) and made a lot of prints I am happy with. One thing it took me too long to really appreciate is how temperature of the resin really affects the settings, getting a small thermostat controlled heater makes things much more stable (Elegoo are releasing their own to go with the Mars so may be a good bet).
Great timing! I picked up my Elegoo this morning and I am looking forward to getting it up and running. A sound piece of advice I received is that 3D Printing is a hobby, not a tool. Expect a long learning curve and a lot of mistakes!
People harp on about this too much. You can go as deep into it as a hobby as you like, there is a lot to learn to become an expert but you can effectively upskill your knowledge sufficiently to use it as a tool within a few weeks. I’m personally of the view that what makes it a hobby and not a tool is people’s impatience. They don’t want to do the research until something goes wrong. I was guilty of that and made some stupid mistakes. If the resources that were available now were around when I started 3D printing I wonder if doing the research would have seemed less daunting. If you want free models that require creating and optimising supports then yeah, you’re going to have a steeper learning curve. If you stick to pre-supported paid files from the better creators then you have less work to do. These printers are getting closer to “tool” status every year. Resin printing will always have a post process.The only thing that keeps it out of the tool status in my opinion is the lack of a Bambu labs type resin printer where you don’t need to do the calibrations and replacement consumable parts are easily swapped out. My advice to keep things simple is find 1 resin that works - I recommend sunlus abs like resin for miniature prints. Dial that in on your printer and just forget that other types of resin exist. Stop “trying new resins” just print.
@ thank you sir, great advice. Being only really into minis myself (and DIY bits etc) I will probably be settling on a grey resin I like and sticking to it, thanks for the recommendation.
I have had 3 total failed prints. I spent half a KG just on calibration. My first recommendation is to ditch that crappy USB stick, it’s not a matter of if, but when it fails. Temperature plays a huge factor, resin likes 25c. Then google cones of calibration and use that to get really dialed in! Once in a six side is usually where I go for 3d printing advice and tutorials! I always lead on the side of over exposure and use a good quality resin. I like ABS like.
Hopefully you'll take a glance at my comments for this video as you already have a ton of comments: I started with a high-end 3D printer and felt overwhelmed as it was over engineered for me. Sent it back, did some research and found an introductory on from FlashForge...been rocking the printer for the past 4 years, and very happy with the results from an FDM one. A year ago, I dipped into the resin printer and thought about a few things, like disposal of the alcohol waste...BIG problem. I opted for something a bit easier, and cheaper to use to wash the figures...water! I started using water-base resin. I would look into water based resin as I've had great results from the printer. Oh...BIG tip...get a magnetic base plat to add to the build plate. I simply pop off the magnetic build plate and then the models pop off of that...haven't used a scrapper since. Looking forward to more videos. Take care.
Well these are great tips, I’m still learning loads so I suspect I’ll eventually improve it even move onto other resins etc, the magnetic plate sounds Intriguing too. And yep I read your message 😂👍
@@PeachyTips Good luck on your 3D printing adventure. Remember, this should a tool in your tool box and not another hobby...thank you for the response back.
Hey there Peachy, some tipes for you. 1. The resin that you use can make your minatures more flexible or more brittle I think most people perfer ABS like resins for tabletop gaming as it makes them tough enough to survive a fall or two (I like sunlu abs like). 2. For your layers you should set your layer height to be 30um, that should make the layer lines less visible, you can also turn on anti aliasing to make stuff smoother. Also you mentioned grainy/soft details in your prints. That is probably from the type of plastic sheet you are using on your printer. You mentioned acf film and it does look like you have that in your vat. Acf is great for printing fast because it is easier to peel each layer; but it does diffuse the light hitting your model a bit so you can end up with that grainy finish. I would switch to PFA or NFEP on your vat and that should help with that. Just note that you will probably have to slow down the lifting speeds of your printer in the slicer if you start seeing a bunch of failures after you make the switch. 3. Lychee slicer comes with a community resin settings tab that lets you search for the resin you are using and it can give you a rough starting point for good settings. Just note that temperature will affect things like the exposure time of your prints, so your results will be different to someone else if you print say in a garage vs a climate controlled room where the resin is the same temperature all the time. Hope this helps you and anyone else new to printing watching this video. P.s. You could always speak to Ross from Fauxhammer/the painting phase, and I'm sure he'd have a bunch of useful tips too
I have the same wash and cure. For washing I use a 3 to 4 min cycle. For curing I use 1.5 minutes then flip the model and do another minute to make sure I get all sides and crevices. For Blood Bowl Miniatures this seems to work perfectly for me using Sunla ABS Like Resin.
The first time I damaged the FEP in my printer, I remember having that same "Oh SHITE!" response and being very intimidated by the whole replacement process. After you've done it a time or two, though, it's really just more tedious than problematic on account of all the screws.
Many thanks for sharing your experience too! I know Peach felt super anxious about changing anything on the machine and it's reassuring knowing others have the same feelings but with experience that confidence builds! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I have had a resin printer for several years now and I got some tips for you Peachy: I've used Lychee slicer with my own Elegoo Saturn S, I find that this slicer and it's ability to auto adjust the angle along with putting supports in really helpful. Also, you really should get the room well ventilated, sitting in your set where you do a lot of your filming with a 3d printer going isn't healthy. I've sacrificed a spare room of my house, have several fans blowing next to the printer blowing all the air outside. It gets chilly in the winter, but that's better than sniffing those fumes. Another tip I can give you, if you don't have one already is getting a painters mask with filters. The little cloth mask you get with the printers is not enough to protect you from the alcohol and resin fumes that you're breathing in during the clean up process. As for the cleaning process, I bathe my resin prints for about 15 minutes in the alcohol bath ( I have the previous version of the one you showed it seems) and depending on the size of the print, I go for a minimum of two and a half minutes of curing. Depending on the size of the print of course, having done some erm..."forgeworld" titans the curing takes much longer
i found out that the times for curing are not set in stone. some people i know use 1 minute, i use 5 ; i know some1 who uses 10mins. Also i never cure with supports still on the mini, makes it more likely to break something off IMO. Good luck
Another great video of what has become a hobby within a hobby. I think I would have the same learning curve you did. How have you found the fumes with this setup, do you need to keep the place ventilated?
Great video Mr Peach, I may never buy a 3d printer in my life but this is informative and entertaining nonetheless. Bless the algorithm and its data. Praise the coming and going of Him.
Great video. It is easy to take things for granted after you've been doing something for awhile. And the technology has come super far over the past 5 years.
I also just got a elegoo, lessons i learned over the last 2 months. GW style models react well to elegoo ABS like resin 3.0. wash for 3 mins, dry with paper towel, cure for 3 mins. FEB is so easy to pierce, done it 3 times (a Derby thing i guess) how you position your models in the slicer software is more imported than anything.
You want to get the latest cones of calibration and some rerf files, dial it in and you'll end up with some really crispy files. Loads of good videos out there to learn from, miniac did a good video, midwinter minis also has a really good series getting started with 3D printing.
I’m really sorry to hear that, my videos can certainly wait, I can only imagine how tough that must be, so just put yourself and family first, that’s all that’s important.
Thanks for a really interesting video. I’m in the same boat as you, just starting with 3D printing and I’ll be following your progress and have subscribed.👍
Use 100% IPA spray on what is stuck and Gently push from underneath to release stuff stuck too the FEP, only use the plastic tool as a last resort. Also Just use Lychee Slicer its much better.
Your times are really just from experience. The more you print with a particular resin the more you’ll get familiar with how it behaves . And don’t forget the rites for the omnissiah or your printer will misbehave !
@@PeachyTipsmy mars was a proper little workhorse, my Saturn and however do NOT get on 😝 you might try a calibration tool like cones of calibration to,dial in your resin settings deal with that grainy finish you’re worried about
I’m tempted….but almost terrified at paying out for one and then it just sits there because it’s intimidating to use. This video has helped….but…..still on the fence. I love Bolt Action, and I know it will really help, but as I said it’s still a bit of a dark art to me….subbed and following your printing journey. Going to have a look at your Patreon now 😉🙂🤙
Thankyou for commenting, Peach was super anxious about trying out 3D printing too (he struggles to use the washing machine so anything technical like this is totally out of his comfort zone)! He found just taking his time to read the instructions (a first for him 😉) and with a bit of trial and error he managed to get some good prints. It really is a hobby in itself (as a lot of folks have said in the comments as well as in the real world) but if you've the time and money to invest in it, it can produce some awesome additions to your armies and terrain! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Welcome to the club! Definitely lots to learn! Uncle Jessy and 3dprintingpro have been great resources for tips and trouble shooting. A magnetic flex plate is a great upgrade and you rarely have to scrape anything. One of the biggest things I learned the hard way is keeping the resin at a decent room temp. The room mine is in gets pretty chilly in the winter and I started getting lots of failures. I haven't bought the kit to fix that yet. Anyway best of luck, I can't wait to see what you print! Side note Corvis Terrain makes amazing terrain stls for Legion, old west modern etc 😊
Nice explaination, thanks! One thing that holds me off from SLA 3D Printing is the toxic stuff (all the fumes and particles from printing). I don't have a place where I could do that safely. Maybe FDM printing (however there you have particles too), but as far as I know you couldn't really print miniatures with that in a proper quality.
Elegoo saturn 4 ultra is a work horse I use it for printing statues and minitures and it's fast with great detail a ten hour print job takes 5 hours on this printer with no lost of quality 😀
Great video so far Peachy! I might be able to help with the settings part. It was always a bit of a head scratcher for me and then I started using Siraya Tech resin and have had zero failures since. Their website has a directory of settings profiles based on the resin and printer you’re using and for me, they’ve been perfect every time. It’s a bit more expensive but the quality is also great. For washing and curing, I wash for about 3 minutes, dip the models in hot water (makes the supports come off easier), scrub with an old toothbrush in warm soapy water and then wash again for another three minutes. Curing varies. Typically, if something has a spear or similar weapon I cure it for about 2-3 minutes to keep flexibility and reduce breakages. Otherwise 3-4 minutes. Then store everything away from sunlight until it’s primed so it doesn’t get over cured. I hope this helps!
Yep, I also started using their fast ABS like resin. Got a good deal on Amazon. Found the settings for it dead easy online. It's better stuff than the wife bought me, just don't tell her 🤣
One thing to keep in mind with exposure settings is that temperature also has an effect. I have my printer in an unheated attic. Last winter I noticed definite changes in the required exposure times during winter. This year I bought one of Elegoo's heaters and I hope this will alleviate the effect. Of course if you have your printer in a heated space this isn't an issue, but with the fumes and general nastiness I would definitely recommend using a shed or attic for 3D printing, if you can.
Two things Peachy I don’t recommend running these bad boys in your home, the resin and alcohol is nasty stuff. Garage or shed with a heater to keep the resin at optimum temperatures and the ability to vent or air out the fumes. The other thing to do with a vat clean is to cut a strip of paper, bend it into a L shape and lower it into your resin so one leg of the L is flat against the fep, then run the vat clean. The paper gets caught in the cured resin and you get a little handy tab sticking up to peel the resin out. No danger of piercing your fep 😊
I own a Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra ; other than its (at the time) unique technology, its so newbie friendly as it takes away a large chunk of the background settings from Chitubox (and other slicers i expect) due to the moving vat... so much easier than static vats with complex slicer settings !
Great video! I've been 3d printing with an Elegoo Mars 3 pro for a couple of years now. great little printer! when I upgrade I'll find it hard to move away from Elegoo I think. I've only ever used the Elegoo water washable resin, couldn't do with the smell of the alcohol. Not had to change the fap on it yet, but i do have 3 separate tanks for 3 different colours. I just swap them round when needed. I find I haven't had to remove the resin from the tanks though, i just keep them covered and flat until needed. Good mix is needed though before using if it's been a while. 1 thing I keep doing (which I want to stop) is over curing my prints! I know the resin plays a part in this so now about to try using the water washable ABS like resin. Fingers crossed it will be more robust. Haven't had to replace a fap yet but glad (not in a horrible way ;-)) that I have got to watch you do it, makes me feel better about having to do it once the need comes along. Somrthing I did find easier to do is just use your finger nail in one of the corners when taking out a tank clean after a print mucks up & gets stuck on the fab, lifts nice & easy. As long as you do it slowly it won't push the resin over the tank edge and then you can leave of the ret of the resin in the tank. I hope you keep up with your printing journey, I soon understood when someone said it's a hobby all on it own! lol :-).
Can’t wait to get into 3D printing but moving house next year so gonna wait and set up its own little space for it. Gray Scalp has a great video called ‘what to buy’ but it’s got some great info in it and tips like getting a ‘plant growing tent to keep everything in, printer, wash station and cuter as well as stuff like having your machines on silicone mats so it’s super easy to clean. Great video for you to do. The universe awaits! It’s be interesting to see if/how much historical has gotten into the printing scene in comparison to fantasy and sci fi. It also means you can have 3D printed ‘peachytips’ mugs, custom minis like a little peachy tank. For my money it should look like a tank from metal slug. You’d find a sculptor who could crush that on my mini factory.
Great video Peachy. It's nice to see someone being very honest about the anxiety of jumping into 3d printing considering all the slightly gate keeping opinions out there about it "being a hobby in itself" etc. I have been really interested in 3d printing for a few years now but have been hesitant to take the plunge due to the startup cost (around £400 ish) for something that might be a massive time sink for me when I'm already trying to steal time to get my minis painted. Would be really interested to know roughly how long it took you from opening the box to getting a usable and paintable printed mini? Are we talking a weekend or a couple of weeks?
Well from opening the box, shifting cameras and equipment etc, with the test chess piece that was I reckon it was around an hour, and the others were staggered periods after, depending on the printing time etc, but try weren’t successful very grainy lol
Great vid, I'm so glad you did this without having an experienced helper or expert to hand. This is an honest experience with mistakes, downsides and upsides being considered. I've been umming and arring for years about getting a printer. Every time I get close to buying one, I remind myself that even if I got it working perfectly, I would just be printing more stuff to sit unpainted so what's the point 😂 I doubt I will even finish the leviathan set before the next edition of 40k comes around. For someone else more productive, I can see the benefits, but for me and my use case... Maybe the tech needs another iteration or two yet. It has improved hugely though in recent years.
I mean that’s a valid point, why get one if it’s just going to add to your pile of shame lol. I do see myself printing other random things out too though, like props, things for display etc, but I totally see your very valid point 😍👍
@PeachyTips oh it's totally about use case and personal circumstances 👍 and I wouldn't want to come across as making generalisations about such a fantastic tool. You in particular will definitely get tons of use out of a printer setup like this. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of your journey and where you end up with the settings 😊
Chituboxes auto supports work for me 95% of the time, with me only occasionally adding a few extra ones to things like very long pole arms or pointed tips. My cheap elago printer is black magic and I love it. Not sure why your prints aren’t coming out high res, mine worked great from the very beginning.
@ there must be some obvious setting that you either changed on accident, or was set to something crazy by default. In chitubox, look for something with the layer size. There’s a layer time setting (probably around 2-4 seconds) it might be near there. I’m not at my PC so I can’t look it up. Your rook came out great so I don’t think it’s a physical problem with the printer, just when you’re setting up your file in chitubox. Good luck!
I found the ACF film that came with the Mars 4 ultra resulted in blurred details. When I swapped out to FEP without changing any settings and printing the same models the details were much crisper.
What great timing! I just got this very printer and wash station. Waiting on the vat warmer and a few other things. This video is reassuring, thank you.
I was the same way when I started. Lots of anxiety on the times to cure and wash. I switched to water washable resin. A lot of folks said oh the water washable is to brittle which is not really true. I tested both and it is not brittle. As to washing I use soap and warm water and a chip brush. No problems. Curing depends on who you talk too. I have accidently left my figures to cure under UV over night and it was not brittle at all. Also you will hear to let your prints dry before curing. Well not sure if that is really true. You will hear people say that they submerge there prints in water and cure it that way because the water will spread the UV light more evenly. Well when you do that the print is not dry.... I have printed many figures the way I described and had not had any issues at all.. Good Luck!!
Thankyou for the advice, it's sounds very much like 3D printing involves a lot of trial and error and it's fantastic hearing about all the different approaches other folks have used too! Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
This may just be a result of seeing it not in person, but FEP films often have two protective layers to remove before installing. The replacement that was installed looked kind of cloudy from this side of the screen. Could be nothing, but just wanted to say something. Much love ❤
A lot of the setting are down to your specific resin and set up. Im currently using any cubic water washable abs like resin around 2 second exposure at 50 microns tend to wash for around 5-10 and cure for 2 mins flip and repeat. Then another 5 if it’s a big model but I usually wing it until it looks fully cured. Something I didn’t see you mention was temperature as print fails can quite often be caused by it being too cold even if everything else is right. There’s so many variables it can be a little annoying at first dialing everything in but once you do it is pretty much just a case of slicing and printing. I think Mars 5 has a pretty interesting calibration function where you can print the same stl at different increments of exposure time to help you find the right one.
I'm so excited to see the Wargames Atlantic Black Brunswicker models on this channel! I've been watching them build this range over the last few months and they look amazing. They seem to have just the right amount of heroic exaggerration I want for Silver Bayonet models!
Great guide Peachy. Only thing i'd add to viewers is please do not have this in your living area and wear a respirator (which I assume you have done off camera as you are wearing gloves, safety glasses etc). A separate ventilated space, be it your Garage or a spare room (one where you don't eat, sleep or work in) you can leave the window wide as recycling air into the space is vital due to volatile air compounds (VOC) produced. You'll want to have some way of measuring air as well for this space - any air quality monitor should do. TVOC is the measurement of gas per classification and the sum of all gasses in a space. isopropyl alcohol is also pretty brutal on the lungs. Safe levels - : .03-0.5 mg/m3 Potentially Dangerous Levels: 0.5-1.0 mg/m3 Highly Dangerous Levels: 1.0-3.0 mg/m3 I know this comment is boring and a bit of a killjoy. The video is fantastic as an introduction, it's just as a fellow parent these devices give me the fear. I have a 3D printer and love using it. Just have a separate space the same you would if you were resin casting with moulds (which I also love doing but do in a separate space and I take similar precautions for that as well). Great video Peach and apologies for being that guy.
Not a boring comment and very helpful thank you, I did have a respirator, but tbh the googled is something I’ve not seen or heard anyone mention I mean it’s obvious no that you point it out, so that’s being fixed now thanks Great advice cheers Peachy
As someone easily as prone to making silly mistakes when trying stuff like this (my poor airbrush), thank you Peachy for sharing this. I would love a 3D printer but am intimidated by all the tech. This video will help me when I finally do take the plunge! 🍑
Really interesting approach to it. When I started I joined a printing discord which is still up and is a huge asset. For timings etc, I wash for ~3 mins, remove supports then cure for 5. Over curing isn't possible, don't be concerned about that
@PeachyTips I'm always open to learning but I've cured for ~5 mins then left on a windowsill for days and yet to see any ill effects. If you have any more questions just shout, gladly help if I can ^_^
I actually decided against getting a resin printer due to the difficulty working with resin, also I don’t have a good place in my home that I can isolate from kids/pets. I’m currently experimenting with fdm printed miniatures
I haven't printed much in the last 2 years so maybe my workflow is a bit out of date. I use Prusa slicer and its got a really good auto orientate and auto support function. Might be worth a look
My Mrs bought me the same printer for my birthday in July. Very much the novice. Designed a tonne of stuff on Eldrich Foundry and Hero Forge. Your journey is pretty much like mine. I managed to damage the film early on too. 😂 I swapped to Lychee Slicer. I like it's auto supports. I set up the WiFi on it as mine is in the garage. It's getting cold here in the North East of England and you need to try and keep the resin over 20°C. Wife got me a heat tent thingy (not the correct term, I don't know it's bloody name lol). I have a home brewing heat belt wrapped around my printer. Keeps it about 20 - 22°C. Does look like I'm keeping the poor printer captive though 🤣 Keep at it bud. You're doing great. Can't wait to see some of the stuff you do 👍
Thanks for the video! I’d like to 3d print but personally I’m worried about the possible health effects of the resin fumes and resin dust. Did you do anything specific to lower the health risks, or is there anything that you found to lower anxiety about this? Cheers!
The best advice I've ever heard was: "Don't get a 3d printer if you don't want a 3d printer hobby." If your *only* interest is in having more toys to paint and play with, and you think a 3D printer is a cheap way of doing that, you might be setting yourself up for disappointment. Even with the most "plug and play" printer, there is still an amount of 3D printing screwing around that goes along with it. I don't particularly enjoy it and I'm happy to accept that I get "good enough" instead of "perfect" quality prints by doing the bare minum of faffing about with the printer. But I also don't hate or get frustrated by the faffing. For a lot of people it's just not going to be worth the effort. A 3D printer has saved you no money if it's just sitting around unused because you can't bare to deal with it!
I've heard a lot of folks say just this, 3D printing does involve the investment of both money and time to get right, however, if you're determined enough to learn, 3D printing can provide the hobbyist with a wealth of 'miniature' opportunities, offering a lot of potential for customisation and convenience once you've learnt how to utilise it Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
***USEFUL 3D PRINTING INFO***
Guide to Resin Printing
doc.mango3d.io/doc/j3d-tech-s-guide-to-resin-printing/
Validation Matix - aka useful printing test thingy
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289
USEFUL CHANNELS
Once In A Six Side - www.youtube.com/@OnceinaSixSide/videos
For Supports and Islands info:
Vogman - ua-cam.com/video/MU0Cq_bjhy4/v-deo.htmlsi=XiXbz2lAuxomjwFh
For Easy beginner tips:
Edward Peake - ua-cam.com/video/6HeBpAnBPc8/v-deo.htmlsi=FWF9ihjk8DSkOdfn
***ELEGOO LINKS***
ELEGOO Mars 4 Ultra on Amazon:
(US)www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5JLSZ3M?maas=maas_adg_EEF80243E913E43EED0EA9548ED08773_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
(UK)www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CCS37H5Q?maas=maas_adg_E9E8279C4A54F925954FC74CF3E1A028_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
(CA)www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C5WYK11J?maas=maas_adg_A4B454B7B7DAB877ADC4D70B35B1E477_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
ELEGOO Mercury wash/cure Station:
(US)www.amazon.com/dp/B08626WF87?maas=maas_adg_D8CBED2181A5ABFC9B92ED2ABBB93B77_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
(UK)www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09B3JNGQ5?maas=maas_adg_F75074DB2084C6F24121CBBA231CEA41_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
(CA)www.amazon.ca/dp/B08CMLBK44?maas=maas_adg_4CEFFA9483145EBF849C9A3AAB79C30E_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
ELEGOO Standard Resin:
(US)www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z986566?maas=maas_adg_C47185F3446638A5809C4C34F8C6D4D5_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
(UK)www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z97WW9W?maas=maas_adg_061BB63CB28D669AB2C4EB853DD5BAAA_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
(CA)www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Z9MFS8C?maas=maas_adg_6868F89155A0B26EDA7A2548FBFBD571_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
I would love to see a follow up version with Rob's guidance. This sort of honest newcomer approach is so useful, but a second video of a vet going 'well heres where you went wrong' would be sooooo cool.
Peach says he'd like to do a second one covering some of the things he's learnt and he'll definitely be printing out those Brunswickers he's so passionate about!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I'd recommend Once in A Six Side's youtube channel for 3D printing info. He has a very down to earth approach, and has a very good "all you need to know" video that starts from setting up the printer through to cleaning up the finished models. I found it very helpful
A good use for the support material is to chuck it in a £10 Tesco herb grinder and blend it up for basing material, less likely to come off than sand, lighter and takes paint better.
Oh now this is a smart hobby hack indeed! Thanks for sharing
GENIUS!
I never thought to try this, good shout
Love this, nice one.
For cleaning your fep after a failed print..
Place old supports in a corner of the Vat.. now you can easily remove the cured resin sheet by pulling the supports up.
😍😍😍 brilliant advice thank you 🙌
Once in a six side is where you want to head to on UA-cam. My top tip: just because a creator says its pre-supported - is in no way the same as them saying "hey, i manually pre-supported this and printed it to tested it". Lots of great 3d artists out there, and far too many are just clicking "auto support" and hoping for the best. Back to once in a six side, he has a very good, maybe 40 min video, showing how to support miniatures properly. Night and day difference between a properly supported one and those that are under / over supported.
Yes .. good bloke that is really good and damned informative 😃
Brilliant thank you for this, and that’s very illuminating too
Thanks Peachy. Great intro, although I've been tempted I think I'll stay away from 3D printing for a while yet.
I don't have the space personally! Maybe in the future when I have somewhere safer to store it...
i'd recommend getting something like this for your washing station. It helps avoid little bits of resin/supports fall to the bottom - Rectangle Colander Basket Stainless Steel Wire Basket Fine Mesh. i did exactly same as you and pierced the film. was a learning lesson for sure. you've done the best way possible by learning by doing!
Super tip, thanks Tom!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Curing is a lot easier than it seems. One of the biggest things I see new users misunderstand is thinking that it needs to cure inside the model, so it needs longer. (I'm ignoring hollowed models for now). Your printer's job is to cure resin, so everything that has been printed, inside to out, is already cured. The only thing your curing station/process needs to do is cure any leftover resin so it's safe to handle. If your wash game was perfect (it never is) then all excess resin would be washed off by the isopropyl alcohol and you wouldn't need to cure at all.
That in mind, a big monster should only really need the same as a 28mm mini to cure. The lights in a curing station are designed to work effectively to the full height of the unit. The only thing you might need to do with a bigger figure is rotate it halfway through to ensure light gets to all the nooks and crannies.
Hope that helps!
Edited to add: when you removed the rook from the plate, you had the plate on its back. With time or frustration, that will knock your levelling screws out and you'll have to relevel or suffer misprints. Try placing the longer edge down onto the table and scrape down. That shouldn't affect it as much.
This is really useful info thank you 😍🙏😍
Hello! I've been printing for a few years now, and never cure the models with the supports on. Uncured supports peel off pretty easily as they aren't brittle, and you get the UV across the model more evenly. I pop the plate with the prints into the wash station, wash it all up, let it dry, and then peel the models off of the supports before curing.
I've also gone to a heap of effort to use the lightest supports I can and still get a clean print. That, or I find suppliers whose supports are nicely done, which can be hit and miss.
Awesome, thanks for the advice!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Great video, just keep safety in mind when it comes to resin as the fumes are pretty toxic and the filter that the printer comes with only helps with the smell
Good advice 👍
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
And gloves of course
I'v been printing for about a year and a half now and my fep broke for the first time yesterday. Wasnt looking forward to changing it but if Peachy can change it it that easily then i'm less worried now 😅
Before i bought a printer i watched a good few of the popular 3d printing youtuber channels. One of the common things that came up was get a bigger print bed rather than say an 18u printer so i bought a Mars 4 Max. This advice is 100% true and i'm glad i bought the bigger printer.
The other thing i found is i personally much prefer Lychee. You can have different profiles for the same printer so i have a 50u setting without anti aliasing for printing say terrain or vehicles and something like a 34u setting using anti aliasing for troops and much more detailed prints.
These are awesome tips, thankyou! We're also glad Peach's made you less worried about changing the fep 😆
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Hey, it's that Peachy Juggs guy. He's good on Juggs and I need more content. He's got a channel! Yay, Subscribed!
🫶🫶🫶
@PeachyTips I love that I now have a backlog of your videos to go through. Keep it up! But also, don't feel like you need to edit until 3 am. Take care of yourself
@@bunionsandcabbage6764😍🙏😍
I've been meaning to make an absolute beginners guide to resin printing video because as you said on Juggz a lot of people assume the viewers have some knowledge. In regards to the bit about Chitubox and not slicing all of the miniatures, you do not need to select them all to slice it. When Chitubox slices your files it takes a screenshot of itself and only one was blue because that's all you had selected BUT it would still slice the whole plate regardless of how many miniatures are selected or not. I hope that makes sense and apologies if someone else has already said this
This makes perfect sense, and thank you for clarifying that, as I’m still super new and very naive to this new tech world, having someone with more experiance doing a beginners guide for dummies (I’m definitely a dummy lol) would be super helpful.
Please continue to do follow ups as your learn more. Really appreciate this approach
I sit certainly will, next is to get the settings right and print some stuff, then I’ll get another video out for when that’s happened
Great to watch a UA-cam video for once where I have a shared skill level with the presenter😅 Thank you for sharing some reality Peachy.
Glad you enjoyed the honesty of the video (aka watching Peach break a 3D printer 😅)!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
My tips would be: Please please please use well ventilated area with a decent respirator 🤞 gently warm the resin with a heat gun or hairdryer before printing (25-30’c, laser thermometer helps) also water washable doesn’t mean wash in the sink and off it goes down the plug hole. Water washable is still highly toxic. And water should either be taken to a recycling plant or allowed to evaporate before disposal of the left over cured resin sludge. Great video look forward to seeing more 🙏🙌❤
Brilliant tips, thankyou!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I love the angle you've taken with your video, Peachy. I've been printing for a while, but my initial experience mirrored your own, trying to figure it out as I go with both successes and failures. Hell, I keep forgetting to set home when I'm leveling my plate. I think showing mistakes is important for newbies and is endearing for those of us who have experienced the same stumbling blocks.
Well I’m glad I’m not alone in these rookie errors then, most of the time I just put it down to me being a bit dumb 😂😂😂
Thanks Peachy for making this video 👍 - it was great to see things from a novices perspective as that is what I would be 🤓
It looks a lot less scarier now but I have to admit I think I would go down the FDM printer route instead which doesn't need all that cleaning, curing etc 😬
Glad it was helpful! And I’d like to look into FDM machines when I have space for another lol
Peachy, great to see you joining the 3d printing community!
Thanks Neil, we've a lot to learn! 🤗
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
ok, i have no any desire anymore to get into 3d printing, thank you Peachy!
Don't let Peach put you off, in fairness, he struggles to figure out how the washing machine works so although it was a steep learning curve the machine itself was pretty straight forward to use 😀
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Try a Bambu Labs A1/ A1 mini FDM printer, gets rid of the whole chemical weapons factory resin printing issues
for help with dialing in your settings check out the cones of calibration they work great for me.
Another tip, when you're doing the vat clean (I only run one when I get misprints, rather than every time), keep one of the bigger support trees that have just printed and hold it down in a corner while it does the vat exposure. Then, you can use that as a handle to peel up the layer rather than using any spatula at all.
Brilliant, many thanks for posting this tip!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I’ve had 3 printers so far. It wasn’t at all *easy* until I got the Saturn 4 Ultra. Now with all the quality of life upgrades, it’s as close to plug and play as I’ve ever seen. HUGE jump in ease of use.
Great video, Peachy! I LOVE this approach of "watch all my mistakes" because it shows it from a really down to earth, more approachable angle!
Getting your settings dialed in on a printer is the most important part, and once you know what you're doing it's quite straight forward, but there is a bit of knowledge you need to be able to look at the test file prints and understand what they mean.
The big three common problems I see from new folks;
- My models didn't print but the rafts (the shapes all the supports come out of) are stuck to the FEP film or the print bed. This probably means your *bottom exposure* settings are off. The first few layers of a print are exposed to light for longer than the rest of the print, so getting that setting "wrong" can cause weird adhesion problems.
- The supports all printed by the model didn't. This probably means your exposure isn't high enough for the supports you are using. You either need a longer exposure time, or thicker/more robust supports depending on the result you're looking for.
- Some models printed but others didn't. 9 times out of 10 this is because the bed needs to be relevelled. As a general rule of thumb, any time you have a problem of any sort with a resin printer, relevel the bed because so often that will just fix the issue, even if it's one of the above issues.
In terms of channels to learn from, 3D Printing Pro is my favourite as its really focused on printing minis a lot of the time.
Many thanks Anto for sharing this super useful information with the community, we're sure folks will find it really helpful (I know Mr Peach has)!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Also I’ve just subscribed to you channel
Thank you 🫶
@@PeachyTips Absolutely, happy to help! 💕
I haven't got a resin printer (yet), as I've not got anywhere I can use it, such as a workshop or shed. Though I've had an FDM printer for a while and use that for printing busts...which I can then paint, and your painting tips come in really helpful.
Super glad you're finding Peach's videos helpful and thankyou for commenting 😊
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Thanks for this honest video- every video I’ve seen is so obviously knee-deep in the hobby and the gloss over things that seem super complicated. I would like to get into it one day but space is too much of an issue, not to mention that I already have enough of a grey pile of shame enough as it is!!!
We're super glad you enjoyed the video! Peach always prefers to share the honest journey so that others can learn from his mistakes and hopefully get some helpful tips along the way!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I wish I could offer advice to you... I picked up a Saturn 4 Ultra a few months back and I've had one print fail. The prints are smooth and exceptionally detailed, and while I started very nervous and anxiety-wracked I feel pretty fearless now. Things used to break if I was being a bit rough removing the support trees, but a second rinse in some hot water fixed this. I can get the thinnest structures free with almost no force... so give your prints a nice bath!
Good luck on your printing adventure, dude.
This is why I love your videos. Totally honest including when you make mistakes and let's be honest how many of us actually ever read all the instructions!
Thanks Peachy. I've ordered my Elegoo just this afternoon after waiting for many months. Having watched you with yours it's made me a little less apprehensive
Awesome! It’s the settings that’s been the head scratcher for me, but that seems quite normal, and the channel Once in a Six side has been recommended loads for that
Cure your supports before disposal but keep some of them. When doing a tank clean, stand one of the supports in the corner of the tank first. This will basically give you a tab/handle to pull the cured layer out.
3D Printing Pro has very good tips for doing supports.
Super useful thankyou Richard!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
i think i have very similar issues as you with getting started with 3d printing and it all seeming a bit too much to deal with. ive watched plenty of videos on getting started with it, but this is the first video ive seen that actually makes me feel like i COULD do it
We're super glad Peach's video has given you more confidence to dip your toes in the world of 3D printing!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Been 3D printing for about a year as a casual hobby- still make tons of mistakes. It really is its own hobby/expertise. Thanks for sharing!
Love the honesty
Hey Peach, Chitubox has a section where you can input what resin you're using and I believe, if memory serves, it auto does optimal settings based on the resin. I use Phrozen's 8k Resin and I've never had an issue, never had to change or fiddle with settings.
Got myself an Elegoo Saturn 2 last year, got it all set up inside an enclosure and exhaust fan rigged up out the window. Best investment I've made as far as the miniature hobby goes. Just printed myself an incredible Death Guard predator annihilator last night. Finally pulled the trigger and bought a second printer, fdm this time
Thank you for making a 3d printing video that isnt all magical army production and sugar coating the process. Printers are fickle little beasts.
Super pleased you like this-Peach likes to take the 'warts n all' approach to his videos, to show that mistakes are okay, we're all human and then showing how he overcomes them. In all honesty, he struggles to operate the washing machine so he was very anxious about trying out a 3D printer (they definitely are fickle beasts 😆)!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I've purchased an Elegoo printer and curing station but have yet to print for fear of mucking up. Thanks for this video, it's making me feel better about starting.
Totally appreciate the fear and apprehension, but seeing as I’m a dumb motherf****r I reckon you’ll be grand getting it sorted 😂
One tip for the tank cleaning: Removing the sheet of resin can be a pain, as you noticed. You can stick a bit of support back into the vat so that the sheet will be fused with the support. This gives you something to grab onto to remove the sheet, ideally not having to touch the film with any tools at all. Replacing the film is always a miserable faff.
Great tip that, thanks
From someone who is considering getting into 3D printing, may I thank you for going first. Your video has given me loads to think about and research. I have dyslexia, so manuals are not my favourite way to learn how to use something. Picking up tips from videos such as yours is my preferred method. I feel I would have run into most of the problems you encountered and more. Thanks Peachy.
There’s still tons for me to learn, certainly if the comments section is anything to go by 😂 but like you I’m dyslexic too….and as such I bloody hate manuals lol.
But I was surprised on how well everything was explained and diagramed etc
Love ya bud 🫶🫶🫶
Peachy
Congrats on your new hobby! Try the "table test" - push the model off the table edge onto a hardwood floor to see if it breaks. Elegoo ABS-like resin is all I use anymore. Same detail as far as I can tell, and way more durable. I tried the ABS-like V3.0 because it's cheaper and the print quality was fine but I left it in the vat for a few days and it gelled up. The regular ABS-like and V2.0 don't do that, so worth the extra expense IMO.
I wondered where you were going with pushing things off the table for a minute 😆! This is super useful advice, many thanks for sharing Cam
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
One page rules have free stl files (minis) that are presupported, with top tier suports. You can get them from my mini factory and they are great to use as test prints for when you"ve got your settings dailed in, because you can get failers due to bad supports. This way you can check to see if its your settings or the mini your trying to print thats causing you issues
Brilliant tip thankyou!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Peach, welcome to the club! There are two videos that were extremely helpful in my learning journey. One you already watched with was Edward Peak’s video. The other is Nerdtronics’s “Why resin 3D prints fail.”
There is so much misinformation and misunderstanding on guides online, which is understandable because it’s a complex topic, but the Nerdtronic video (plus tons of learning from my mistakes) helped me understand why people recommend certain things and, more importantly, understand when those recommendations no longer applied. Like you don’t need to tilt everything by 30/45/60 degrees. There is nothing magical about those numbers (sorta). You tilt to reduce stress on the model while being pulled up and down. Etc etc…
Love the videos, peach!
Oh I forgot to explain. The nerdtronic video explains physically what is happening when some prints fail and why supports are needed. As you print, you will get some WEIRD print failures, like random holes/divots or pieces shifting/breaking off. But it can usually be traced to me not accounting for the stresses/strains on the model while being printed. Anyway, this video would have saved me hours of frustration had I only found it earlier.
😍🙌😍 thank you for this
This is so helpful, cheers again
Love you peachy, glad you have taken the leap hope you continue having fun. I am nearly up to 2 years with a Mars 2 printer and have made so many mistakes but not killed the printer yet (You get more confidence with replacing film etc after the first few) and made a lot of prints I am happy with. One thing it took me too long to really appreciate is how temperature of the resin really affects the settings, getting a small thermostat controlled heater makes things much more stable (Elegoo are releasing their own to go with the Mars so may be a good bet).
Fantastic! I’m thinking maybe the room isn’t as warm as it should be, so I’ll be looking at that next too
Thank you for this 😍👍
Great timing! I picked up my Elegoo this morning and I am looking forward to getting it up and running.
A sound piece of advice I received is that 3D Printing is a hobby, not a tool. Expect a long learning curve and a lot of mistakes!
People harp on about this too much. You can go as deep into it as a hobby as you like, there is a lot to learn to become an expert but you can effectively upskill your knowledge sufficiently to use it as a tool within a few weeks. I’m personally of the view that what makes it a hobby and not a tool is people’s impatience. They don’t want to do the research until something goes wrong. I was guilty of that and made some stupid mistakes. If the resources that were available now were around when I started 3D printing I wonder if doing the research would have seemed less daunting.
If you want free models that require creating and optimising supports then yeah, you’re going to have a steeper learning curve. If you stick to pre-supported paid files from the better creators then you have less work to do.
These printers are getting closer to “tool” status every year. Resin printing will always have a post process.The only thing that keeps it out of the tool status in my opinion is the lack of a Bambu labs type resin printer where you don’t need to do the calibrations and replacement consumable parts are easily swapped out.
My advice to keep things simple is find 1 resin that works - I recommend sunlus abs like resin for miniature prints. Dial that in on your printer and just forget that other types of resin exist. Stop “trying new resins” just print.
@ thank you sir, great advice.
Being only really into minis myself (and DIY bits etc) I will probably be settling on a grey resin I like and sticking to it, thanks for the recommendation.
Just the video I've been waiting for - thank you. Eagerly awaiting the next in this very helpful series
I have had 3 total failed prints. I spent half a KG just on calibration. My first recommendation is to ditch that crappy USB stick, it’s not a matter of if, but when it fails. Temperature plays a huge factor, resin likes 25c. Then google cones of calibration and use that to get really dialed in! Once in a six side is usually where I go for 3d printing advice and tutorials! I always lead on the side of over exposure and use a good quality resin. I like ABS like.
Sounds exactly like my first experiences when learning how to do it
Always such great content. Best hobby tuber out there. Thanks!
😍🙏😍 you’re too kind
Hopefully you'll take a glance at my comments for this video as you already have a ton of comments: I started with a high-end 3D printer and felt overwhelmed as it was over engineered for me. Sent it back, did some research and found an introductory on from FlashForge...been rocking the printer for the past 4 years, and very happy with the results from an FDM one. A year ago, I dipped into the resin printer and thought about a few things, like disposal of the alcohol waste...BIG problem. I opted for something a bit easier, and cheaper to use to wash the figures...water! I started using water-base resin. I would look into water based resin as I've had great results from the printer. Oh...BIG tip...get a magnetic base plat to add to the build plate. I simply pop off the magnetic build plate and then the models pop off of that...haven't used a scrapper since. Looking forward to more videos. Take care.
Well these are great tips, I’m still learning loads so I suspect I’ll eventually improve it even move onto other resins etc, the magnetic plate sounds Intriguing too.
And yep I read your message 😂👍
@@PeachyTips Good luck on your 3D printing adventure. Remember, this should a tool in your tool box and not another hobby...thank you for the response back.
Hey there Peachy, some tipes for you.
1. The resin that you use can make your minatures more flexible or more brittle I think most people perfer ABS like resins for tabletop gaming as it makes them tough enough to survive a fall or two (I like sunlu abs like).
2. For your layers you should set your layer height to be 30um, that should make the layer lines less visible, you can also turn on anti aliasing to make stuff smoother.
Also you mentioned grainy/soft details in your prints. That is probably from the type of plastic sheet you are using on your printer. You mentioned acf film and it does look like you have that in your vat. Acf is great for printing fast because it is easier to peel each layer; but it does diffuse the light hitting your model a bit so you can end up with that grainy finish. I would switch to PFA or NFEP on your vat and that should help with that. Just note that you will probably have to slow down the lifting speeds of your printer in the slicer if you start seeing a bunch of failures after you make the switch.
3. Lychee slicer comes with a community resin settings tab that lets you search for the resin you are using and it can give you a rough starting point for good settings. Just note that temperature will affect things like the exposure time of your prints, so your results will be different to someone else if you print say in a garage vs a climate controlled room where the resin is the same temperature all the time.
Hope this helps you and anyone else new to printing watching this video.
P.s. You could always speak to Ross from Fauxhammer/the painting phase, and I'm sure he'd have a bunch of useful tips too
Thanks for the tips Larry 😀
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I've got a elegoo. It's great. Best money I've spent in a while
I have the same wash and cure. For washing I use a 3 to 4 min cycle. For curing I use 1.5 minutes then flip the model and do another minute to make sure I get all sides and crevices. For Blood Bowl Miniatures this seems to work perfectly for me using Sunla ABS Like Resin.
This is good and helpful info thank you
The first time I damaged the FEP in my printer, I remember having that same "Oh SHITE!" response and being very intimidated by the whole replacement process. After you've done it a time or two, though, it's really just more tedious than problematic on account of all the screws.
Many thanks for sharing your experience too! I know Peach felt super anxious about changing anything on the machine and it's reassuring knowing others have the same feelings but with experience that confidence builds!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I have had a resin printer for several years now and I got some tips for you Peachy:
I've used Lychee slicer with my own Elegoo Saturn S, I find that this slicer and it's ability to auto adjust the angle along with putting supports in really helpful.
Also, you really should get the room well ventilated, sitting in your set where you do a lot of your filming with a 3d printer going isn't healthy.
I've sacrificed a spare room of my house, have several fans blowing next to the printer blowing all the air outside. It gets chilly in the winter, but that's better than sniffing those fumes.
Another tip I can give you, if you don't have one already is getting a painters mask with filters. The little cloth mask you get with the printers is not enough to protect you from the alcohol and resin fumes that you're breathing in during the clean up process.
As for the cleaning process, I bathe my resin prints for about 15 minutes in the alcohol bath ( I have the previous version of the one you showed it seems) and depending on the size of the print, I go for a minimum of two and a half minutes of curing. Depending on the size of the print of course, having done some erm..."forgeworld" titans the curing takes much longer
Many thanks for sharing these tips!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
i found out that the times for curing are not set in stone. some people i know use 1 minute, i use 5 ; i know some1 who uses 10mins. Also i never cure with supports still on the mini, makes it more likely to break something off IMO. Good luck
Another great video of what has become a hobby within a hobby. I think I would have the same learning curve you did. How have you found the fumes with this setup, do you need to keep the place ventilated?
I have a office that’s mostly seperate from the house, with the door closed and windows opened it’s pretty well ventilated
Great video Mr Peach, I may never buy a 3d printer in my life but this is informative and entertaining nonetheless.
Bless the algorithm and its data. Praise the coming and going of Him.
Great video. It is easy to take things for granted after you've been doing something for awhile. And the technology has come super far over the past 5 years.
I also just got a elegoo, lessons i learned over the last 2 months.
GW style models react well to elegoo ABS like resin 3.0.
wash for 3 mins, dry with paper towel, cure for 3 mins.
FEB is so easy to pierce, done it 3 times (a Derby thing i guess)
how you position your models in the slicer software is more imported than anything.
😂😂😂 and also thanks for the useful info
You want to get the latest cones of calibration and some rerf files, dial it in and you'll end up with some really crispy files. Loads of good videos out there to learn from, miniac did a good video, midwinter minis also has a really good series getting started with 3D printing.
I need to catch up on all your videos, my dad passed away about 3 weeks ago as you can imagine It’s been pretty tough.
I’m really sorry to hear that, my videos can certainly wait, I can only imagine how tough that must be, so just put yourself and family first, that’s all that’s important.
@ Thanks Peachy 👍🏻
Thank you Mr. Peach. I've been worried about getting into the 3d printer game but this video makes it look manageable.
Thanks for a really interesting video. I’m in the same boat as you, just starting with 3D printing and I’ll be following your progress and have subscribed.👍
Well I’m hoping to do a part 2 where I’ve learned from all my errors and am actually making decent prints to play and paint
Use 100% IPA spray on what is stuck and Gently push from underneath to release stuff stuck too the FEP, only use the plastic tool as a last resort. Also Just use Lychee Slicer its much better.
Your times are really just from experience. The more you print with a particular resin the more you’ll get familiar with how it behaves . And don’t forget the rites for the omnissiah or your printer will misbehave !
Aha! I was forgetting to apply my sacred unguents 😂😂😂
@@PeachyTipsmy mars was a proper little workhorse, my Saturn and however do NOT get on 😝 you might try a calibration tool like cones of calibration to,dial in your resin settings deal with that grainy finish you’re worried about
I’m tempted….but almost terrified at paying out for one and then it just sits there because it’s intimidating to use. This video has helped….but…..still on the fence. I love Bolt Action, and I know it will really help, but as I said it’s still a bit of a dark art to me….subbed and following your printing journey. Going to have a look at your Patreon now 😉🙂🤙
Thankyou for commenting, Peach was super anxious about trying out 3D printing too (he struggles to use the washing machine so anything technical like this is totally out of his comfort zone)! He found just taking his time to read the instructions (a first for him 😉) and with a bit of trial and error he managed to get some good prints. It really is a hobby in itself (as a lot of folks have said in the comments as well as in the real world) but if you've the time and money to invest in it, it can produce some awesome additions to your armies and terrain!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Welcome to the club! Definitely lots to learn! Uncle Jessy and 3dprintingpro have been great resources for tips and trouble shooting. A magnetic flex plate is a great upgrade and you rarely have to scrape anything. One of the biggest things I learned the hard way is keeping the resin at a decent room temp. The room mine is in gets pretty chilly in the winter and I started getting lots of failures. I haven't bought the kit to fix that yet. Anyway best of luck, I can't wait to see what you print! Side note Corvis Terrain makes amazing terrain stls for Legion, old west modern etc 😊
Thanks for the tips Robbie!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Nice explaination, thanks! One thing that holds me off from SLA 3D Printing is the toxic stuff (all the fumes and particles from printing). I don't have a place where I could do that safely. Maybe FDM printing (however there you have particles too), but as far as I know you couldn't really print miniatures with that in a proper quality.
Could you make this video for airbrushing??? Ty!
Elegoo saturn 4 ultra is a work horse I use it for printing statues and minitures and it's fast with great detail a ten hour print job takes 5 hours on this printer with no lost of quality 😀
Great video so far Peachy! I might be able to help with the settings part.
It was always a bit of a head scratcher for me and then I started using Siraya Tech resin and have had zero failures since. Their website has a directory of settings profiles based on the resin and printer you’re using and for me, they’ve been perfect every time. It’s a bit more expensive but the quality is also great.
For washing and curing, I wash for about 3 minutes, dip the models in hot water (makes the supports come off easier), scrub with an old toothbrush in warm soapy water and then wash again for another three minutes.
Curing varies. Typically, if something has a spear or similar weapon I cure it for about 2-3 minutes to keep flexibility and reduce breakages. Otherwise 3-4 minutes. Then store everything away from sunlight until it’s primed so it doesn’t get over cured. I hope this helps!
Yep, I also started using their fast ABS like resin. Got a good deal on Amazon. Found the settings for it dead easy online. It's better stuff than the wife bought me, just don't tell her 🤣
I’ll certainly look at getting this then, thanks folks 👍👍👍
One thing to keep in mind with exposure settings is that temperature also has an effect. I have my printer in an unheated attic. Last winter I noticed definite changes in the required exposure times during winter. This year I bought one of Elegoo's heaters and I hope this will alleviate the effect.
Of course if you have your printer in a heated space this isn't an issue, but with the fumes and general nastiness I would definitely recommend using a shed or attic for 3D printing, if you can.
Two things Peachy I don’t recommend running these bad boys in your home, the resin and alcohol is nasty stuff. Garage or shed with a heater to keep the resin at optimum temperatures and the ability to vent or air out the fumes.
The other thing to do with a vat clean is to cut a strip of paper, bend it into a L shape and lower it into your resin so one leg of the L is flat against the fep, then run the vat clean. The paper gets caught in the cured resin and you get a little handy tab sticking up to peel the resin out. No danger of piercing your fep 😊
🙌🙌🙌 Awesome tips thank you
I own a Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra ; other than its (at the time) unique technology, its so newbie friendly as it takes away a large chunk of the background settings from Chitubox (and other slicers i expect) due to the moving vat... so much easier than static vats with complex slicer settings !
Great video! I've been 3d printing with an Elegoo Mars 3 pro for a couple of years now. great little printer! when I upgrade I'll find it hard to move away from Elegoo I think. I've only ever used the Elegoo water washable resin, couldn't do with the smell of the alcohol.
Not had to change the fap on it yet, but i do have 3 separate tanks for 3 different colours. I just swap them round when needed. I find I haven't had to remove the resin from the tanks though, i just keep them covered and flat until needed. Good mix is needed though before using if it's been a while.
1 thing I keep doing (which I want to stop) is over curing my prints! I know the resin plays a part in this so now about to try using the water washable ABS like resin. Fingers crossed it will be more robust.
Haven't had to replace a fap yet but glad (not in a horrible way ;-)) that I have got to watch you do it, makes me feel better about having to do it once the need comes along.
Somrthing I did find easier to do is just use your finger nail in one of the corners when taking out a tank clean after a print mucks up & gets stuck on the fab, lifts nice & easy. As long as you do it slowly it won't push the resin over the tank edge and then you can leave of the ret of the resin in the tank.
I hope you keep up with your printing journey, I soon understood when someone said it's a hobby all on it own! lol :-).
Super tips, many thanks for sharing them 😀
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Can’t wait to get into 3D printing but moving house next year so gonna wait and set up its own little space for it.
Gray Scalp has a great video called ‘what to buy’ but it’s got some great info in it and tips like getting a ‘plant growing tent to keep everything in, printer, wash station and cuter as well as stuff like having your machines on silicone mats so it’s super easy to clean. Great video for you to do. The universe awaits! It’s be interesting to see if/how much historical has gotten into the printing scene in comparison to fantasy and sci fi.
It also means you can have 3D printed ‘peachytips’ mugs, custom minis like a little peachy tank. For my money it should look like a tank from metal slug. You’d find a sculptor who could crush that on my mini factory.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Great video Peachy. It's nice to see someone being very honest about the anxiety of jumping into 3d printing considering all the slightly gate keeping opinions out there about it "being a hobby in itself" etc. I have been really interested in 3d printing for a few years now but have been hesitant to take the plunge due to the startup cost (around £400 ish) for something that might be a massive time sink for me when I'm already trying to steal time to get my minis painted. Would be really interested to know roughly how long it took you from opening the box to getting a usable and paintable printed mini? Are we talking a weekend or a couple of weeks?
Well from opening the box, shifting cameras and equipment etc, with the test chess piece that was I reckon it was around an hour, and the others were staggered periods after, depending on the printing time etc, but try weren’t successful very grainy lol
@@PeachyTips thanks that's really helpful
Great vid, I'm so glad you did this without having an experienced helper or expert to hand. This is an honest experience with mistakes, downsides and upsides being considered. I've been umming and arring for years about getting a printer. Every time I get close to buying one, I remind myself that even if I got it working perfectly, I would just be printing more stuff to sit unpainted so what's the point 😂 I doubt I will even finish the leviathan set before the next edition of 40k comes around. For someone else more productive, I can see the benefits, but for me and my use case... Maybe the tech needs another iteration or two yet. It has improved hugely though in recent years.
I mean that’s a valid point, why get one if it’s just going to add to your pile of shame lol. I do see myself printing other random things out too though, like props, things for display etc, but I totally see your very valid point 😍👍
@PeachyTips oh it's totally about use case and personal circumstances 👍 and I wouldn't want to come across as making generalisations about such a fantastic tool. You in particular will definitely get tons of use out of a printer setup like this. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of your journey and where you end up with the settings 😊
Chituboxes auto supports work for me 95% of the time, with me only occasionally adding a few extra ones to things like very long pole arms or pointed tips. My cheap elago printer is black magic and I love it. Not sure why your prints aren’t coming out high res, mine worked great from the very beginning.
I imagine I’m doing something very dumb tbh lol
@ there must be some obvious setting that you either changed on accident, or was set to something crazy by default. In chitubox, look for something with the layer size. There’s a layer time setting (probably around 2-4 seconds) it might be near there. I’m not at my PC so I can’t look it up. Your rook came out great so I don’t think it’s a physical problem with the printer, just when you’re setting up your file in chitubox. Good luck!
I found the ACF film that came with the Mars 4 ultra resulted in blurred details. When I swapped out to FEP without changing any settings and printing the same models the details were much crisper.
What great timing! I just got this very printer and wash station. Waiting on the vat warmer and a few other things. This video is reassuring, thank you.
Super glad the video's helped reassure you, enjoy your new printer!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
I love my 3d printer, its like xmas every morning I wake up.
I was the same way when I started. Lots of anxiety on the times to cure and wash. I switched to water washable resin. A lot of folks said oh the water washable is to brittle which is not really true. I tested both and it is not brittle. As to washing I use soap and warm water and a chip brush. No problems. Curing depends on who you talk too. I have accidently left my figures to cure under UV over night and it was not brittle at all. Also you will hear to let your prints dry before curing. Well not sure if that is really true. You will hear people say that they submerge there prints in water and cure it that way because the water will spread the UV light more evenly. Well when you do that the print is not dry.... I have printed many figures the way I described and had not had any issues at all.. Good Luck!!
Thankyou for the advice, it's sounds very much like 3D printing involves a lot of trial and error and it's fantastic hearing about all the different approaches other folks have used too!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
This may just be a result of seeing it not in person, but FEP films often have two protective layers to remove before installing. The replacement that was installed looked kind of cloudy from this side of the screen. Could be nothing, but just wanted to say something. Much love ❤
Oh I hope not lol…..well if it is I’ll get good at taking that thing apart 😂🤣
@@PeachyTipsif it’s acf that is slightly cloudy
A lot of the setting are down to your specific resin and set up.
Im currently using any cubic water washable abs like resin around 2 second exposure at 50 microns
tend to wash for around 5-10 and cure for 2 mins flip and repeat. Then another 5 if it’s a big model but I usually wing it until it looks fully cured.
Something I didn’t see you mention was temperature as print fails can quite often be caused by it being too cold even if everything else is right.
There’s so many variables it can be a little annoying at first dialing everything in but once you do it is pretty much just a case of slicing and printing.
I think Mars 5 has a pretty interesting calibration function where you can print the same stl at different increments of exposure time to help you find the right one.
Awesome thankyou, there are a lot of useful tips here, thankyou for sharing them!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
@ no probs, happy to be of some help :)
I'm so excited to see the Wargames Atlantic Black Brunswicker models on this channel! I've been watching them build this range over the last few months and they look amazing. They seem to have just the right amount of heroic exaggerration I want for Silver Bayonet models!
They’re really nice models, tbh all their digital and plastics are
Great guide Peachy. Only thing i'd add to viewers is please do not have this in your living area and wear a respirator (which I assume you have done off camera as you are wearing gloves, safety glasses etc). A separate ventilated space, be it your Garage or a spare room (one where you don't eat, sleep or work in) you can leave the window wide as recycling air into the space is vital due to volatile air compounds (VOC) produced. You'll want to have some way of measuring air as well for this space - any air quality monitor should do. TVOC is the measurement of gas per classification and the sum of all gasses in a space. isopropyl alcohol is also pretty brutal on the lungs.
Safe levels - : .03-0.5 mg/m3
Potentially Dangerous Levels: 0.5-1.0 mg/m3
Highly Dangerous Levels: 1.0-3.0 mg/m3
I know this comment is boring and a bit of a killjoy. The video is fantastic as an introduction, it's just as a fellow parent these devices give me the fear. I have a 3D printer and love using it. Just have a separate space the same you would if you were resin casting with moulds (which I also love doing but do in a separate space and I take similar precautions for that as well). Great video Peach and apologies for being that guy.
Not a boring comment and very helpful thank you, I did have a respirator, but tbh the googled is something I’ve not seen or heard anyone mention I mean it’s obvious no that you point it out, so that’s being fixed now thanks
Great advice cheers
Peachy
Once in a Six Sided is the best channel for 3D printing. He lives for settings and supports and anything else printing.
Thank you! He’s definitely been mentioned a few times now 😍🙏😍
Thank you very much for this. It’s appreciated.
As someone easily as prone to making silly mistakes when trying stuff like this (my poor airbrush), thank you Peachy for sharing this.
I would love a 3D printer but am intimidated by all the tech. This video will help me when I finally do take the plunge! 🍑
Really interesting approach to it. When I started I joined a printing discord which is still up and is a huge asset.
For timings etc, I wash for ~3 mins, remove supports then cure for 5. Over curing isn't possible, don't be concerned about that
Ooh this is super useful, yeah I heard from a few channels over curing can make the prints super brittle, so that’s really helpful.
😍🙏😍
@PeachyTips I'm always open to learning but I've cured for ~5 mins then left on a windowsill for days and yet to see any ill effects. If you have any more questions just shout, gladly help if I can ^_^
@@jod3000cheers bud, super appreciate it 🙏
I actually decided against getting a resin printer due to the difficulty working with resin, also I don’t have a good place in my home that I can isolate from kids/pets. I’m currently experimenting with fdm printed miniatures
I haven't printed much in the last 2 years so maybe my workflow is a bit out of date. I use Prusa slicer and its got a really good auto orientate and auto support function. Might be worth a look
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Gaming Geek does a lot of great videos on different resins and printers
Great work Peachy!
My Mrs bought me the same printer for my birthday in July. Very much the novice.
Designed a tonne of stuff on Eldrich Foundry and Hero Forge.
Your journey is pretty much like mine. I managed to damage the film early on too. 😂
I swapped to Lychee Slicer. I like it's auto supports.
I set up the WiFi on it as mine is in the garage. It's getting cold here in the North East of England and you need to try and keep the resin over 20°C. Wife got me a heat tent thingy (not the correct term, I don't know it's bloody name lol). I have a home brewing heat belt wrapped around my printer. Keeps it about 20 - 22°C. Does look like I'm keeping the poor printer captive though 🤣
Keep at it bud. You're doing great.
Can't wait to see some of the stuff you do 👍
Many thanks for the advice and recommendations- if he's a good boy I might buy Peach one of those heaters for Xmas 😉
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑
Peachy! Were there any strong odours from the printing?
The only strong odour I got was from the isopropanol alcohol
I've been thinking about 3D printers, this is so well timed! Cheers Peachy
Also
Cannot wait for your next battle report video!!
Thanks for the video! I’d like to 3d print but personally I’m worried about the possible health effects of the resin fumes and resin dust. Did you do anything specific to lower the health risks, or is there anything that you found to lower anxiety about this?
Cheers!
Peachy, what kind of ventilation did you use? How was the odor in your hobby space?
The best advice I've ever heard was: "Don't get a 3d printer if you don't want a 3d printer hobby." If your *only* interest is in having more toys to paint and play with, and you think a 3D printer is a cheap way of doing that, you might be setting yourself up for disappointment.
Even with the most "plug and play" printer, there is still an amount of 3D printing screwing around that goes along with it. I don't particularly enjoy it and I'm happy to accept that I get "good enough" instead of "perfect" quality prints by doing the bare minum of faffing about with the printer. But I also don't hate or get frustrated by the faffing. For a lot of people it's just not going to be worth the effort.
A 3D printer has saved you no money if it's just sitting around unused because you can't bare to deal with it!
I've heard a lot of folks say just this, 3D printing does involve the investment of both money and time to get right, however, if you're determined enough to learn, 3D printing can provide the hobbyist with a wealth of 'miniature' opportunities, offering a lot of potential for customisation and convenience once you've learnt how to utilise it
Luv Mrs Peach 🍑