This Could MAKE OR BREAK the Look Of Our Kit Boat (MJ Sailing - Ep 280)
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- It's time for us to begin filling all of those seams which pieced our kit boat together.
We're finally back to good 'ol boatwork this week, and it has nothing to do with fairing!! Now that it's getting warm enough to work with products outside of the boat, it's time for us to begin working with gelcoat on the exterior of our catamaran.
The first step is to remove the existing gelcoat on each side of the seams, which we thought was going to be a huge mess and leave gelcoat dust EVERYWHERE! But with the help of a belt sander from Colby, Matt was able to easily strip that back and keep a clean work space.
Even though the pieces were bonded together with our methacrylate, we still want to fill in any gaps, and go about doing that with our Total Boat polyester structural putty, which is full of milled fibers for extra strength.
A single layer of our 12 oz double bias fiberglass goes on and sits overnight to dry. After getting sanded down, Matt wants to go right into adding gelcoat instead of fairing compound. Was this a wise choice? Or will it all have to come off to be done again?
Tune in to our latest episode for all the fun!
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Videos made by Jessica, featuring Matt and Georgie.
Music:
Blue Texas - Rockin' For Decades
Mimicking Your Breathing - Harper Rey
More Than You Can Chew - Rockin' For Decades
Rain Checking - OTE
Pandemonium (Tribute Version) - The Mondays
Camera equipment used:
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Previous Boats: 1983 Trisalu 37 - custom aluminum, built in Quebec (Elements of Life) Where we've been: 2.5 year refit in Indiantown,
Florida; Abacos, Bahamas; St. Barth's; St. Maarten; Antigua; Saba; Azores; Ireland; Scotland; Norway; England 1989
Sabre 34 Targa (Serendipity)
Where We Sailed Her: U.S. - Bahamas - Jamaica - Cuba - Cayman Islands - Honduras - Guatemala - Belize - Mexico - Bermuda - Azores - Madeira - Canary Islands - Sint Maarten - BVI's - USVI's
Editing software: Adobe Premier Pro
Website: www.mjsailing.com
Facebook: / mattandjessicasailing
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Lots of negativity in the comments, you two are crushing it! I am in awe of the progress!
You guys are awesome! You are going to have the best cat in the world when you’re done. I can’t praise you enough for not taking shortcuts and doing everything top notch. Just think of how much more work the build would be if you had bought the kit at IKEA !
Have you considered using a roller and gelcoat formulated for "brush on"? its thicker and you'll waste less material in over spray. you're sanding it back anyway so roller and brush marks won't matter.
Great work, Matt, as usual! One thing that might help going forward is that there is an attachment made (or you might be able to make your own) that is basically a depth control for the oscillating tool. It’s hard enough to control from side to side as you’re removing material, if the depth control is keeping the tool from going too deep it might make it a little less exhausting. Hope this helps!
Y’all are making so much positive progress. You work ethic is inspiring. The work is so tedious but you continue with your original vision of quality. I don’t know how much seam work is left at time of this post, but a die grinder bit in a router is an idea to create a uniform groove along the seams. It may help bond the section seams better and prevent cracks from developing when in challenging seas.
Matt and Jess, If you're working on seams like shown @ 10:38 that are getting gelcoat over top, you can increase the bonding strength by increasing it's area (50% or more) with a scribed scraper or notched scraper... it can give the bond a much larger area like the "tooth" effect you get from sanding surfaces for painting. The scraper's edge can be dragged over a coarse grade of sandpaper a few times for a similar effect to create a scratched, uniformly notched edge that acts as a scribed scraper does, leaving tiny linear ridges. When you apply the glass on top of this the resin will have a smooth base with tiny micro channels for resin penetration for increased bond strength.
Those resin and gelcoat can lids you're struggling with are a mess ! Save the old and new lids for re-use by cutting 2 pour holes in a new clean one, one near the edge or rim (not all the way) in a "T" shape that can be bent outward for pouring, and the second small perforation for venting to control pour speed/volume. The old unmodified can lids can still seal up stuff for longer term storage, just wipe out old material as much as possible to avoid cross contamination. The modified lids can be sealed for day to day use with duct tape or better, metal reinforced duct tape which can also be formed into a spout for pouring from can more neatly.. at end of day, when done, squeeze "tape spout" closed to seal, replace for next pour.
Matt your feelings are correct on fairing, follow the "rule of 3"... ie, a 1/16th gap needs 3 times the same area minimum to be faired in and a 1" area needs more than 3" area to be faired in smoothly and blended. This leaves an area around original hole or gap with a shallow transition angle between old and new layers of gelcoat or resin which are less likely to pop or crack in flexing than one that is straight through like a drilled hole.
Your perseverance is amazing! 😊
Spatula-hat for Matt - spectacular multitasking contortionist. Take that show on the road!
Like the old saying, "Practice makes perfect!!" You are doing great work and the end result will show it. Keep at it!!
Hey Matt, you're doing a damn good job. And fixing the seams with a glass over shows you are a professional. Keep it up you will have a boat you two can be proud of. Keep it up and we will soon see you guys back out on the water. Sail on my friends
HI there you guys. Heroic effort there. Wow. So as I check in with you from time to time I think about my 'drifts' of aluminum "saw dust" from some "drilling" (60 mm) hole that I do through 1/4 aluminum plate for a dock co. So "Just Saying" I"ve used this aluminum dust to replace the silica thickener with the (half part) hardener slow cure from Total Boat to make that "peanut butter" filler. The result is (like) an aluminum weld. Crazy strong. ~ Just saying ~. Keep ;the faith there ~.♥~ (New Hampshire)
I've found that when I spray paint, I get a better finish and less spitting if I spray continuously (rather than starting and stopping) and over spray past the edges so my starts/stops end off the piece I'm trying to spray. That may be less applicable for the huge bottom seam, but it might help with the other areas.
I'll give it a shot. Thanks
God Bless you two! The amount of work, care and time you are putting in is incredible! You are going to having an amazing floating home once she is done.
I watch other sailing channels and see them do glass work (I do a lot of glass work) and think OMG! NO!, but you two are doing it right. Here are many virtual pats on the back.
awsome video this week.....thanks so much for getting back to the boat stuff
Matt, that looks like great craic 👍👍🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
that makita 9031 has been one of the most valuable tool on my refit, the detail and precision combined with the speed at what you want remove material its truly impressive. when it comes to remove stuff only a grinder with a flap disk tops it but at the expense of bigger mistakes done VERY quickly
Getting it right is getting it strong enough, getting the surface smooth is more about resale, good to see you are doing both, nice little video sequence
I might have said this before: Joins can be covered up with a manufactured trim piece, makes it easier and looks more precise in lines/finish. In this case perhaps future kits could include trim pieces that bond to the surface via a guide(channel, mounting holes/grooves). In the case of the underside lights/cameras/sensors could also be added to the trim piece. Perhaps also on the top sides... Would be nice to be able to remove the trim pieces as well to service/replace them. They could be color accents as well...
So exciting to see gel coat go on
I love your attention to detail...if it doesn't work back you go till its right........thats the only way EH! Awesome work as usual.........it will be well worth going the extra mile......
Hey Matt... welcome to the club! My wife sneaks up on me all the time. Great job building your home! Best, Webhead USA
Great Video !
I can’t wait to see your next boat build after this one….Wahoo!
Pro tip-use the half and quarter part of your trigger (limits material) to blend start stops and blending areas. Keep the tip of the gun at the same spot as best you can without breaking your wrist. It won’t allways matter but then one day it will help you with a fine finish or keep you from messing lol. Doing good man just keep up the steady pace and you’ll be having cocktails in the tropics before you know it!!
Thanks. Yes. Definitely a learning opportunity here before we really need skill elsewhere
Probably a bit late but I use a swivel elbow joint thing on my pneumatic nail guns air line- takes a huge amount of load off the wrist and removes some frustration.
I’m not sure what problem you’re having with the DeWalt sanders, but under heavy use the orbital bearing is always what fails on mine. It takes about five minutes to remove and Grainger will have one for you the next day for about ten bucks. A real easy fix if you don’t want to deal with the downtime of a warranty repair the next time one goes out.
I have found that making a mock up and testing a method, helps to find the flaws in my plan, before I screw up the end product. It may help you work out which different techniques will work best.
Amazing challenger you undertook and are conquering
You learn more as you go and adjust like you have been doing from the start every week more is completed just keep pressing ahead.
Looks beautiful !
Your attention to detail is amazing. Stay Safe & Fair Winds!!
Great video you two, your smashing it.
Saw a video from only a few months ago a massive difference to where you are now
Keep up the fantastic work, Saturdays wouldn’t be Saturday without seeing your new video.
Cheers, best wishes
Thank you so much Jamie!
Stay safe and we'll see you next week.
If you are going to use polyester resin with the fiber glass tape, it is not necessary to grind away the gel coat in the cracks. Gel coat is polyester based, so polyester laminate will stick very well to it.
The best way to spray gel coat is to do the correct thickness all in one go. The proper thickness of gel coat is about 0.7 mm. Gel coat does not fully cure on top if it isn’t covered by something. And there will always be some styren gas tunnels in the gelcoat.
The designer wanted a stronger base to help alleviate cracks in the new gelcoat than the old gelcoat in the provided. The thickened resin with milled fiberglass in it was better for the structure of the crack.
Keep at it people, you’re killing it!. Have you considered using a router with a guide for making your channels for glass?. I’ve used one for the same thing with a big assed cutter and it worked a treat.
Haven't checked in for awhile impressed with the progess guys going to be a great looking cat when u r all done! 😊
Like I have said before check out life on the hauls ,Ross has been doing fibreglass most of his life and he shows how to fare glass on the cat he’s building.🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Another lesson learned. You guys are amazing. Such dedication to building a beautiful boat.
It is all in the finishing Matty, Great job, but definitely fair all surfaces before your gel and flow coat layers. I have just sprayed the underside of my hard top in this way and it did not go so well and will need to be redone. Cheers Ross.
As always Ross, thanks for the encouragement.
@MJ Sailing a little tip.I add a layer of surf board weight cloth as the final layer over you db which enables a peel ply like finish on your final layer.This reduces amount of fairing and a smaller weave to fill,negigible weight addition, sand more easily and you can laminate over the edge of your sanded gap.Saves so much time and wasted fairing compound.Fair after that really makes a massive difference.
Very good tip Ross. Thanks
I imagine Matts arms are dead after working with his arms above him like that for several days. And yours too because I would imagine you were doing more than just filming obviously. Looking good yall per usual!
nice progress. i can really see the size of your sailboat in this video, amazing!
Great job guys. Watching your progress is inspiring 😊
I really like the attention to detail you guys put into your work/projects . Coming out the Maryland eastern shore👍👍🔥🔥🔥👍👍👍👍
tools that would have made the "digging" faster. Diamond ball end 1/4-3/8th diam and diamond straight with 1/4"+ end and .5-1" straight shank with diamond grit. Used on a die grinder or an electric straight die grinder. You would have a hard time keeping up with it if done right. Very fast tool with little effort. As to filling the void area with gel coat. I've said it before I'll say it again. Use brush able gel coat. add about 10-20 % cabosil to thicken the gel. Pre-mask the edges of the ground glass/gelcoat. When ready catalyze the slightly thickened gel and brush into place. You do not want to put gelcoat on right after doing a fiberglass coat. Your chances of allegation are very high. Its better to let it cure for 2 hours before applying the gel. When applying the GEL that has been lightly thickened follow behind it with a straight edge to make it level. I would suggest NO wax is the gel, and wipe it with acetone to remove the oxide layer, lightly sand all surfaces with 120 grit and prep for spraying gelcoat for the final layer.
Trust me on this. The fish are not going to complain.
I guess there is another 2 to 3 years left befor ya'll hit the water.
So until next time, Aloha from the Big Island of Hawaii!
Hope to seeing ya'll sail her someday. Who knows, Maybe to the Big Island.
I saw a vid of a guy and his wife who bought a Schioning Cat that was built up completely but nothing done about fairing , engines , plumbing or electrical! When they finished it was a perfect show boat! Fairing and sanding alone took four years!!!! Matt is doing a good job! It,s daunting! Ignore the peanut gallery in the comments! They sit on their couches eating chips!
Great stuff!
I once had a catalyst guy from Norac explain chemically why you should never spray gel coat in thin layers and let it flash off and set up between layers. Chemically this can mean there is not enough styrene left in the gel layer to allow the polyester to fully cross link, and hence why many areas repaired like this end up with yellow stripes. Gel coat need s20-25 thou in one application… I think if you calulate it mathmatically it’s actually 15 thou but with inconsistencies that is why gelcoat manufacturers will say 20 thou. It is worse with white gel coats because of the high titanium content.
Not sure if it’s still available but we used a lot of Hawkeye Duratec to get a better sprayed finish, but colour vairiation was then an issue.
After 20+ years making and selling gelcoat I came to the conclusion that if you can’t avoid sanded joins by good design then give up early and plan to paint with a good urethane paint. Gelcoat is not paint.
Consider a straight sander used for auto bodies. They're longer so it's a lot better to avoid wavy uneven finishes. I only see them pneumatic though.
14:35 it's like a plastic murder room! Dexter would be proud.
Great Job love the videos !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another amazing episode. Wondering if a jigged router may work on these seams? Your spraying technique is a tad sporadic, possibly if you laid flat on a moving dolly or knell while spraying? As with everything unknown, practice makes perfect. Besides, your both inspirational to the first time builders and these vlogs are perfect in cinematography and editing. Thanks so much for sharing! Great job.
It was on this day it became a boat. 👍👍
Super lucky 🍀 can’t wait to get my boat looking for a big aluminum boat to redo and resell to get closed to a cat
So much work and such an incredible job. When do you expect launch day?
Donate for a Dream
Try a die grinder to clean out grooves
On both sides👍
I didn’t see you using a peel-ply layer. For those that don’t know the term. Peel-ply (a 100% Dacron Fabric) is a final cloth that you apply to a layup. Once it cures/drys you rip the peel-ply cloth off. It does two things. 1. As you pull it off the resin boundary between the peel-ply and the underlying glass layer fractures (the resin)creating a ideal surface for additional cloth layups or a fairing compound with very minimal sanding. 2. Because peel-ply is a very fine weave it hides the course weave of the underlying glass.
You loose the chemical bond when peel ply is used on polyester. For this application, the chemical bond was best.
I wish that I could find a way to buy you some Mirka Abranet which will work on any sander, lasts far longer than any paper, cuts faster, works much better with any vacuum system. How can I get some to you?
So many ET contaminate moments in this video
So this is all lessons learned, ready for the next boat that you build from scratch.
I have a feeling after this build, there will not be any more boat builds in their future. Appears like kind of a once in a lifetime experience.
@@jiminauburn5073 you never know they might get a dog or something, and then the boat is too small and they have to build another boat just one meter longer.
Painstaking work, alot of it above your head, heat building & using heavy sanders. I hope you have your post build work rountines mapped out! The careful choices of materials and techniques will pay off.
That's the hard way.
you need a power board sander.
We do have an air sander, but the compressor we have isn't quite powerful enough for it.
Simple things complex minds.
A seam refers to a line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of fabric together, while a joint refers to a point where two or more pieces of fabric are joined together without stitching.
I know. You don’t care about vocabulary or using correct jargon. Just git er done.
Sorry. Love the work you’re doing and always watching the next step in the build.
Definition of seam:. 2
: the space between adjacent planks or strakes of a ship
@@MJSailing haha. Ok. a strake is a longitudinal course of planking or plating which runs from the boat's stempost (at the bows) to the sternpost or transom (at the rear). The garboard strakes are the two immediately adjacent to the keel on each side. I suppose it might need to be changed to include fiberglass boats. Planks are likely of wood.
I love what you’re doing and am fully excited to see you finish your project and I know while it’s a fun project you already have plenty of stress on your plate. Don’t take me seriously. I’m now living my dreams through your, and many of the other UA-camrs you know who do what you do, eyes. I want to be a sailor but it’s difficult for me. I’m really happy you responded to me. At second glance that came off more harsh than intended. Yeah. My bad. Sorry.
I heard you like sanding, I have a counter top that needs sanding, any chance? (I am just joking) haha
12:15 why not pull the tape BEFORE the resin hardens?
I thought hulls were made as one piece molds, so I'm surprised that these seams would not crack under stress. Does the epoxy fiberglass resin "weld" the pieces together?
Very seldom are they one piece... It would be a difficult mold to produce. So, they are fiberglassed together at certain points - on catamarans, typically where the centerline of each hull. But the designer wanted a continuous seamless underwater profile, so put the joints here.
@@MJSailing Thanks so much for your reply. I learned something new!
The bulkheads tie it all together.
Ones made in the factory may be 1 piece but MJ's was stuffed into a 40ft container.
how does one access your Amazon wishlist?
It's in the description box of each video. 🙂
👍
😮
It's to small stripp of a bite, minimum 5"
It's not trying to hold anything together. This is just to help prevent the new gelcoat from cracking. The flanges and inner glass do all the work.
😎💙👍
Yowsers, you should've watched a youtube howto on spraying :-|. Nevertheless, function over form. That's a great gig you guys've worked out with the manufacturer... to be in there getting your hands dirty, fantastic
Get a router Matt
I've never been able to control a router freehand well. These would end up taking way too much material off in the end
@@MJSailing use a suction cup guide and use the right size bit. It Will cut down time.
There are things I need for my projects! I pay for my own stuff not begging! You chose to build your boat now get a job and pay for it out of your pocket
No one will ever see the bottom. Ten years from now when you are out there sailing this will be a non issue. It looks good to me.
Next time watch Matt shave his head…
Wwow mr bill. I am sorry to say you are boring. Your wife is amazing. Let her do the talking.
Why aren’t you using peel ply on those seams😊
I wanted to try and get a chemical bond with the polyester and gelcoat. Peel ply is like adding wax and fully cures the resin making chemical bond not happen.
@@MJSailing makes sense if your going from filler to glass to fairing , but odds are your still going to have to apply a final coat to sand and polish . So there will not have that “ chemical bond “. So why not use the peal ply and have better surface to gel coat …. Better but more labor that’s the price ,,, I’ve done it both ways best to go with what you can live with.
Don't want to be a Debbie downer, but a single layer of glass on those seams is not nearly enough. To give appropriate structure you need several layers, inside and out
you obviously haven't seen how the boat was designed and has been assembled
The fiberglass isn't for strength. It's to help prevent the gelcoat cracking. The structure is the flanges and the internal glass work
Would a Dremel tool work well to grind out the groves?