Black Oxide first try....gonna have to try again.
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I tried a black oxide finish on some parts for a desk and it didn't come out as expected. Maybe someone can shed light on how I could do it differently.
In the end, the desk looks good, just not with the oxidized coating I wanted. There are completed pictures of the desk at the end of the video.
Presto Black - www.sculptnouve...
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Good For You by THBD / thbdsultan Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.... Music promoted by Audio Library • Good For You - THBD (N...
We often black oxide stuff at work,
To do it properly it's a 6 part process. 1. Degrease the part. 2 clean in water. 3. Submearse in blacking solution 15mins atleast. 4. Clean in water again. 5. Submearse in dewatering oil for about 15mins. 6. Wipe/blow oil off. And admire your part. For bigger stuff like that I'm not sure.
Damn..that was a fast reply....thanks. So, I did #1. Didn't see a need for 2, given the blasting. Obviously I modified 3 big time. I did 4 (not in video). Don't know what 5 is....
I just found while hunting for a link to presto black, two bits I didn't know. 1- They make a gel that would have made this easier and 2-They say to dilute in distilled water. I didn't do that. I wonder if the iron in my well water was some of the problem? Thanks for the ideas. ~P
sbirdranch we use tap water as well no problem, we also use the gel if we need to modify a part and don't want to reblack the whole part. The stuff we use you have to dilute 3:1 Water : solution, You could get away with brushing it I think if applying a very liberal coating, also some materials/alloys just do not black well I have found also. Hope any of it can help
You can heat the part up to convert Fe2O3 to Fe3O4 but it will probably still be loose black oxide. Acid etched the metal and it rusted rapidly in air. Most "cold" blackening solutions do not actually produce magnetite, but rather deposit copper selenium layer on the metal for decorative black. For real black oxide you need hot salts bath or repeated air rusting followed by boiling in water to convert red rust to black magnetite.
You touched it with ungloved hands. The oil needs to be applied immediately after the oxide. Nice dog by the way.
Maybe distilled water? I think if you do some research and experimentation you'll get it dialed in. Those are some really nice legs.
You must use some kind of oil for stop oxidation when you got black color
Jimmy DiResta uses Jax Black with seemingly good success. He just brushes it on.
I will keep that in mind. I used most of the other, so I will try Jax next time. ~P
Give this video fromweldingtipsandtricks a watch: ua-cam.com/video/3Bxw8U9MNuU/v-deo.html
Thanks. I had seen that video and it was part of my inspiration to try it. I did however forget that they had warmed the part....hmmm Might have been a contributor. It was room temp, but it was not warm by any means. ~P
Really like the look of those legs, totally understand wanting to keep the raw metal look w/o paint. I admire that you didn't scrap the video just because of a failed attempt. It just seems like you needed a gel type solution like Gary! mentioned. Correct me if I'm wrong, i think the water evaporated too quickly for the dye to set-in before oxygen got to it . It's funny, while I've been waiting for some of my cnc parts to be fabricated, been tossing around the idea of setting up a little anodizing operation. Look forward to seeing what you've been up to!
I think my next try will be with a gel solution. I have some parts for my CNC Plasma table made that would be fun in anodized color but I really want to finish the machine. I have a powder coating setup that I will use just for fun instead. ~P