Your channel is a gift man. I even worked in a brewery to try to learn this stuff and barely got taught anything other than cleaning kegs and polishing stuff. What you are teaching is oddly closely guarded secrets to people wanting to get into the industry. I appreciate the detail and safety warnings.
Jasper. Thank you, to you and all the people who put your lives on the line on a daily basis for the love of delicious beer. I salute you! Also, thanks for the training vids. You help me make better beer AND warn me about possible life threatening mistakes. That and possibly losing a good batch of brew.
Great informational video as always. Here's a few additional tips based on my processes. A 4mm hex key will tighten up the screw on that bottom dump valve handle. Also, you keep your diaphragm valve closed when opening the dump valve, but I find if the cone slurry is loose enough it will bubble back into the tank and that's a chance for contamination or oxidation. I always leave it partially open to make sure it's vented to drain and then close down to control flow. Lastly, when you are topping up head head pressure on the tank and it already has pressure just crack the tank valve and connect co2 under flow from both.
Love your vids brother! Heres a tip someone taught me not a few weeks before I had to put it into practice; in the event you undo a clamp such as the bottom dump and beer starts going everywhere keep the valve open while trying to put it back on. It works... or so I hear hahaha ;-) -a fellow probrewer
Yay! Great video! Love hearing the baby here and there! ( I did hear the baby right? ) I’m gunna be a father soon and will be continuing my brewery plans! Your inspirational my dude!
Another fantastic video, Jasper. Thank you! Your videos have been immensely helpful in making the transition from homebrewer to pro. Fantastic detail and friendly delivery - very much appreciated!
I think that the best way to avoid opening the wrong triclamp is to remove it's wing nut and replace it with a normal lock nut. You won't be able to unclamp it without a wrench.
Jasper thank you very much, in my city there are just 4 microbreweries and we are learning from each other, but I truly watch your videos as an internship, I always learn new things thru your words, keep it going, hope you come to Colombia some time!
A High Pressure Bolted Sanitary Clamp on the backside (between the tank & the valve) is cheap insurance; it's easy to commit mistaken T-clamp identity after a 10-12 hour shift.
A "beer bath" is a rite of passage for anyone in the industry; heck of allot better than hot wort in the boot. I enjoy the channel, an excellent resource for new brewers (& "old" brewers coming out of retirement to compare notes).Stay safe, Sláinte.
Hi Jasper, I also took the bottom valve off of a 60bbl fermenter. Managed to get it back on, but still lost close to 5bbl. Soaked from head to toe. Great videos.
Excellent and informative video! A video on dry hopping techniques to avoid the carbonation eruption would be fantastic! Glad to see you back making videos
If you are averse to using the fermcap, the other thing you can do is close the valve for 10-15 min immediately after dry hopping. Even if you are dry hopping during fermentation (+1.010 from projected FG has worked best for us) this technique is still very effective and doesn't stress the yeast enough to cause any issues.
I worked as a printer in another life and we printed lock out tags for equipment that needed a warning such as your fittings. We installed a loop of wire in each tag that the customer twisted onto the part. They also purchased extra wires to reuse the 🏷. Guessing water proof in your case!
I'm so glad you are back Jasper! I've learned a lot from your previous videos two years ago and I can see you're still full of knowledge. I wish I could try your beer, I'm sure is delicious :D Thank you!
i love that tc co2 quick connect part. definitely gonna get one fabricated soon for the cellar asap. great videos man. solid techniques. great safety tips. hope all is well. cheers.
Great to see you back making videos! Your videos have been a great resource as I started my own brewery last year. I modeled my yeast harvesting setup based on your videos and it has been working very well. On the issue of dumping the yeast from the cone, have you noticed any differences between yeast strains? We have 4 strains we use regularly and all others (American Ale, Lager and Scottish Ale strain) drop very easily and don't stick to the walls of the fermenter, but our Belgian ale strain tends to stick to the walls, leading up to punching a hole in the middle even if I try to go as carefully as possible.
Awesome to hear! Different yeast strain definitely have different flocculation genes. Sometimes not every stain works for your process, keep experimenting , cheers
Why not? The fermenter would have to be built to withstand the pressure like a unitank. But from what I understand unitank are expensive. I would imagine if you wanted a natural carb beer you would just bottle condition.
A jacko is right, bottle conditioning is the best way to do it in my opinion. aka Sierra Nevada. Fermenters and Unitanks are a little confusing. They are the exact same thing in microbreweries, but it is how you use the tank that makes it uni. Uni means one tank used for fermentation and packaging. Fermenter or FV is said when you use a bright tank to package. Both are commonly rated to 1 bar or 14.7psi. Full carbonation with active fermentation would require a 2bar or 29.4psi rated tank. These tanks exist but I have yet to see one, and would never encourage brewers to use this psi on a commercial scale. This is why partial natural carbonation 75% then forced to 100% is standard operation in commercial breweries. Hope this helps cheers.
More stories about brewery mistakes and mishaps would be very useful! I do have a question though about what the purpose is for keeping the fermenters under pressure. What's the benefit of that?
Again, wonderful video Jasper! If you could explain when you close the blow off arm during fermentation and put the head pressure at 10 psi for natural carbonation?
I would like also to find out more about this (when to close the blow off arm and pro and cons on fermentation under pressure or at atmospheric pressure. Thanks Jasper again for your effort and helping out the world of beer.
I've just watched this video for the 3rd time. I've also had some incidents by removing the wrong valve in my home brewery. I've been burned and I also had a partial amputation of my left thumb (long story and not related to a valve, but stainless steel is VERY sharp). We'll be using a small piece of red ribbon to mark triclamps that should not be removed on the big boy brewery.
Hey Jasper Thanks for the videos. Very informative. Have you ever used plastic fermenters? If so, a short video as a follow up to this one on how the process is different, would be super helpful.
Hey Jasper amazing work thanks, just a dumb question, if you accidently opened the wrong clamp on the spray ball arm and blew out all the pressure, why would it ruin the batch of beer?
Thanks, no worries, not a dumb question. For me a few reasons it would ruin a batch of beer are; I would lose alot of desirable aroma, head retention would be trashed, I'd have to force carbonate the entire batch rather than last 25% of vols. A good rule of thumb is to treat your beer gently, this volcano would be the exact opposite, cheers.
Great vid! I see that you keep it at 10 psi, I'm sure that it carbonates as you're waiting (especially at 32 degrees). Do you change the psi for beers that you like carbonated more?
Thanks, final vol adjustment is done in the bright tank per brand. Head pressure wouldn't over carb your beer on this scale if your moving your product quickly. Therefore all cellar tanks are kept at 10psi. Other breweries with different proceeses may require it though.
We mostly have fermenters with only one arm for CIP/Blowoff at the brewery I work at. A couple of tanks have the two arm system, I find if the krausen is getting out the blowoff arm it will definitely be settling in the CIP arm too. You can't win either way :D ... Maybe your tank design differs from ours though!
Hi Jasper! Your videos are the best, thanks. What are the male and female parts for keeping 10psi on the tank? The Tri clamp male and quick connect female ones. Legend! Thanks.
Great video as always Jasper. What rate do you drop the hops out at? I still find that the hops stick to the sides of my cone and the level doesn't come down uniformly like I want.
Hey @BreweryLife, what hose are you using for CO2? We've used silbraid highpressure, food grade hosing, but wanted to switch to something that can roll up in a hose reel.
How do you dry hop in an FV tank when it's pressurized? do you release the pressure then add in the hops (but then that would let oxygen in). Or do you feed it through the bottom of the cone? Anyone able to answer this? Thanks!
Rarely do breweries do this, but it is possible to mix hops and wort/beer in brink and then pressure feed it through the raking arm. Releasing pressure would be the way to go.
If dropping the cone with blow off tube directly and without adding pressure to the tank (although my pressure is around 8 psi) can it be that oxygen is introduced in the tank do the punching hole you mentioned? Also, can it be that dropping the cone just with a blow off tube could make a more foamy product to come out?
Reenactor Guy , I believe he cold conditions under pressure. A lot of breweries do ferment under pressure towards the end of fermentation via a spunding valve. This allows recapture of CO2 produced during fermentation so when you go to cold crash it helps partially carbonate the beer. This cuts down on CO2 required to carb the beer in the brite tank and is also useful to better compact solids out of suspension (via head pressure). Cheers 🍻
Thanks again for the awesome vídeo Jasper! One question, I'm having a hard time harvesting yeast on dry hopped beer. It seams all it comes out is Hops and I can't get any clear yeast. Should I harvest BEFORE I dry hopp? I usualy blow some CO2 on the botton of the fermenter to agitated the hops after a couple days of DH.
Do not harvest yeast after dry hopping. Better yeast management would be to harvest before you dry hop. Hops dramatically reduce the yeasts viability and may cause lots of issues for future brews if your re-pitching garbage/tainted yeast.
So question, say you're only doing 1-2bbl batches...If you dont have a way to counterpressure a yeast brink, would it be acceptable to use the diaphragm valve for flow control for yeast collection in half gallon mason jars?
Diaphragm valves can definitly help with flow control but if the pressure difference is huge it might not help. Only way to tell if it was acceptable would be to count your yeast after harvest and make sure its above 90% viability. Cheers
Question... Is it better to use the alcohol solution vs. something like star-san or is that just your personal preference. Cheers and keep up the great work.
In this application, Yes. 70% Iso has a kill time of 10secs. Star san has a kill time of 2mins....70% Iso is cheaper and doesnt require any extra steps of dilution. 100x better in my opinion. BUT DONT SANI YOUR CARBOY WITH IT.
If worried about touching product EtOH should be used because its food grade. So here I call a grey area. I only use EtOH when harvesting yeast or transferring beer not dropping cone or sample valves but maybe I should start.. It is more dangerous to store. Iso is the preferred surface sterilant for medical, pharmaceutical, and microbiology labs. Thanks for the comment man!
Even though the stuff at the bottom of the fermenter will be thick, are you not worried with the diaphragm valve closed that the sludge could potentially displace the air pocket between the tank dump valve and diaphragm valve? Or maybe it's just me and my oxygen paranoia! As long as you're able to throttle flow with the tank valve I don't see the purpose of the additional valve you attach.
Leaving the diaphragm open just a crack is a great thing to do. I found using the diaphragm this way makes dropping far easier. If youre happy with just the butterfly no reason to change. If dropping hops is a pain this helped me. Happy brewing.
Actually, the two valve setup is essential because otherwise the pressure drop across the upstream butterfly valve will usually cause CO2 breakout (foaming) in your sight glass and you won't be able to assess clearly what is flowing out. The idea of the diaphragm (or even a second butterfly valve if you don't have one) downstream of the sight glass is to control the outflow AND take that pressure drop where it doesn't affect your vision of what's in the sight glass. And yes, there is a risk of air backflow if the second valve is completely closed. I crack it slightly to ensure positive flow away from the tank at all times, and then open up the tank butterfly fully so that flow control is then taken by the second valve. (As taught me by my mentor/coach Rockstar Brewing Academy). Cheers!
In this application, Yes. 70% Iso has a kill time of 10secs. Star san has a kill time of 2mins....70% Iso is cheaper and doesnt require any extra steps of dilution. 100x better in my opinion. BUT DONT SANI YOUR CARBOY WITH IT.
Doesnt break down in the bottle and loose effectiveness in 48hrs like PAA. So yes, in my opinion. PAA is my favorite sprayball tank sani though, great stuff!
Yep, 70% iso is the last thing we use where I work on parts & fittings before hooking them up.100% flashes off too quickly. PAA requires longer contact time to sanitise. PAA for sanitation cycle of CIPs at my place.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Your channel is a gift man. I even worked in a brewery to try to learn this stuff and barely got taught anything other than cleaning kegs and polishing stuff. What you are teaching is oddly closely guarded secrets to people wanting to get into the industry. I appreciate the detail and safety warnings.
Jasper. Thank you, to you and all the people who put your lives on the line on a daily basis for the love of delicious beer. I salute you! Also, thanks for the training vids. You help me make better beer AND warn me about possible life threatening mistakes. That and possibly losing a good batch of brew.
The man The myth. The Legend! JASPER! Cheers.
Haha No No...Cheers!
This guy knows his shit!
Great informational video as always. Here's a few additional tips based on my processes. A 4mm hex key will tighten up the screw on that bottom dump valve handle. Also, you keep your diaphragm valve closed when opening the dump valve, but I find if the cone slurry is loose enough it will bubble back into the tank and that's a chance for contamination or oxidation. I always leave it partially open to make sure it's vented to drain and then close down to control flow. Lastly, when you are topping up head head pressure on the tank and it already has pressure just crack the tank valve and connect co2 under flow from both.
Andrew! Thanks for the contribution. These are the kind of comments that change lives. Keep them coming, Cheers!
Thanks for helping all the brewers community! Excellent video! Those videos help me a lot making beer here in Brazil :D
Awesome to hear!
Thanks so much for making these videos Jasper. Glad you're back at it.
Glad you like them!
Perfect time to post this. On the homebrew forums some of us are talking about the correct way to drop the cone.
Sweet, glad it can help, Cheers
Slowly does it!
Love your vids brother! Heres a tip someone taught me not a few weeks before I had to put it into practice; in the event you undo a clamp such as the bottom dump and beer starts going everywhere keep the valve open while trying to put it back on. It works... or so I hear hahaha ;-)
-a fellow probrewer
Nice!
Please do a video on how to best add dry hops without introducing oxygen, or maybe just a video on how to keep your dissolved oxygen levels low
Yay! Great video! Love hearing the baby here and there! ( I did hear the baby right? ) I’m gunna be a father soon and will be continuing my brewery plans! Your inspirational my dude!
You caught me haha, Yes that was the brewery baby. Congrats man it is a wild ride. Cheers
Hi Jasper! Glad to have you back!! 2 suggestions of videos: dry-hopping and bottling
Another fantastic video, Jasper. Thank you! Your videos have been immensely helpful in making the transition from homebrewer to pro. Fantastic detail and friendly delivery - very much appreciated!
Awesome to hear, thanks Ben!
I think that the best way to avoid opening the wrong triclamp is to remove it's wing nut and replace it with a normal lock nut. You won't be able to unclamp it without a wrench.
16:38 on wards is absolute gold. Lvl 60 Full Fenris Mage wisdom right there.
Jasper thank you very much, in my city there are just 4 microbreweries and we are learning from each other, but I truly watch your videos as an internship, I always learn new things thru your words, keep it going, hope you come to Colombia some time!
A High Pressure Bolted Sanitary Clamp on the backside (between the tank & the valve) is cheap insurance; it's easy to commit mistaken T-clamp identity after a 10-12 hour shift.
Good idea, thanks for the comment!
A "beer bath" is a rite of passage for anyone in the industry; heck of allot better than hot wort in the boot. I enjoy the channel, an excellent resource for new brewers (& "old" brewers coming out of retirement to compare notes).Stay safe, Sláinte.
No kidding!
Hi Jasper,
I also took the bottom valve off of a 60bbl fermenter. Managed to get it back on, but still lost close to 5bbl. Soaked from head to toe. Great videos.
Dang man thanks for sharing. It was my biggest fear working with 200bbl tanks. Glad your ok, happy brewing!
Thanks for all these amazing Videos! They really give a glance on how professional work is done! Please keep them coming! Cheers from Costa Rica!
Costa Rica Cheers!
Thanks for a great video! Starting up a microbrewery now, and your videos are so valuable for me. Big thx!
Excellent and informative video! A video on dry hopping techniques to avoid the carbonation eruption would be fantastic! Glad to see you back making videos
One word: fermcap
Dry Hopping video...maybe maybe. Good advise Jeremiah!
If you are averse to using the fermcap, the other thing you can do is close the valve for 10-15 min immediately after dry hopping. Even if you are dry hopping during fermentation (+1.010 from projected FG has worked best for us) this technique is still very effective and doesn't stress the yeast enough to cause any issues.
Thank you for putting this great material out there, cant tell you how much you've helped
Wondering if a red cable tie attached to those inner tri-clamps could serve as a warning?
I worked as a printer in another life and we printed lock out tags for equipment that needed a warning such as your fittings. We installed a loop of wire in each tag that the customer twisted onto the part. They also purchased extra wires to reuse the 🏷. Guessing water proof in your case!
I'm so glad you are back Jasper! I've learned a lot from your previous videos two years ago and I can see you're still full of knowledge. I wish I could try your beer, I'm sure is delicious :D Thank you!
Cheers Hugo, I'm happy most of the time with it. Glad those vids helped.
Thank you so so much for this video! I am definitely checking more of your videos out hope to contribute to your efforts. Greatly appreciated!
i love that tc co2 quick connect part. definitely gonna get one fabricated soon for the cellar asap. great videos man. solid techniques. great safety tips. hope all is well. cheers.
Appreciate the comment man! That part is one of my favorites too. I think GW Kent sells them so no need to fab. Cheers!
Not having luck finding them on gw or anywhere else. Do you know where you got yours? I must have that co2 disconnect!
@@jasonb7197 Glacier Tanks carries them
So happy you're back you legend! cheers from Australia!
Cheers!
Hello my friend! Good to see you back on your channel! Love the content, still studying it!
Cheers!
Great video Jasper! 🇵🇦 👍🏼👍🏼
What an amazing video, really, thank you very much! I love your content, please please keep them coming!!
Great video!! We have a small brewery in Brazil, and now are going to grow! Your videos help us a lot! Thank you!!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching.
Your videos are incredible Jasper! Thank you so much for them and for helping us out in our breweries!!
You're Welcome, Thanks for being a part of the channel, cheers
I've been there when someone took the butterfly off the bottom of the HLT. Thank goodness it wasn't boiling or freezing!
Nice work Jasper......
Thanks
another great video, cheers from colombia, and definitely buying your book.
Cheers Colombia, happy brewing!
Hey where are you from, I'm from Colombia too
Great info! Thanks again... Safety is always a plus Cheers
Thanks Kenny!
Yeeah! and thanks millions for coming back!
You're welcome!
Another good 1 😎 cheers Jasper 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks guys, Cheers!
Great to see you back making videos! Your videos have been a great resource as I started my own brewery last year. I modeled my yeast harvesting setup based on your videos and it has been working very well. On the issue of dumping the yeast from the cone, have you noticed any differences between yeast strains? We have 4 strains we use regularly and all others (American Ale, Lager and Scottish Ale strain) drop very easily and don't stick to the walls of the fermenter, but our Belgian ale strain tends to stick to the walls, leading up to punching a hole in the middle even if I try to go as carefully as possible.
Awesome to hear! Different yeast strain definitely have different flocculation genes. Sometimes not every stain works for your process, keep experimenting , cheers
Great video and safety tips👍
Happy you liked it!
Great video Jasper!!
Thanks Chris!
Thanks for another great video. Cheers
Cheers!
Enjoy the videos. Learn a lot. I would love to see how you add massive dry hops. I keep seeing pictures of beer geyser from not
dry hopping correctly.
Common problem for sure. Cheers
Such a legend. Any chance you can bottle some of that enthusiasm and post it to the UK? Keep up the good work! Fascinating stuff!
That bottle has a short shelf life my man, cheers!
Hey, can you please tell me of you can do a natural carbonation at this level?
Why not? The fermenter would have to be built to withstand the pressure like a unitank. But from what I understand unitank are expensive. I would imagine if you wanted a natural carb beer you would just bottle condition.
A jacko is right, bottle conditioning is the best way to do it in my opinion. aka Sierra Nevada. Fermenters and Unitanks are a little confusing. They are the exact same thing in microbreweries, but it is how you use the tank that makes it uni. Uni means one tank used for fermentation and packaging. Fermenter or FV is said when you use a bright tank to package. Both are commonly rated to 1 bar or 14.7psi. Full carbonation with active fermentation would require a 2bar or 29.4psi rated tank. These tanks exist but I have yet to see one, and would never encourage brewers to use this psi on a commercial scale. This is why partial natural carbonation 75% then forced to 100% is standard operation in commercial breweries. Hope this helps cheers.
Cool video though. Going to watch your other ones! Sláinte from Ireland!
Thanks mate! I'm awaiting a 3.5BBL uni as I write. Your videos are great and very helpful.
Welcome back! Great content
Thanks for watching!
Great information. Thank you!
More stories about brewery mistakes and mishaps would be very useful! I do have a question though about what the purpose is for keeping the fermenters under pressure. What's the benefit of that?
Helps keep oxygen out and carbonation in, cheers!
Also helps to clear up the beer, pushing yeast/hops into the cone
Great video 👍🏽
Appreciate you keeping me on my toes man, Cheers
Great video think you may do a video where you touch on the finer points of passivation of a tank?
Great idea. Give me the chromium.
Again, wonderful video Jasper! If you could explain when you close the blow off arm during fermentation and put the head pressure at 10 psi for natural carbonation?
I would like also to find out more about this (when to close the blow off arm and pro and cons on fermentation under pressure or at atmospheric pressure. Thanks Jasper again for your effort and helping out the world of beer.
Try capping with 0.5P left in Fermentation. Saves on Co2, Prepares tank for cold crash, does change flavor compounds. Cheers
I've just watched this video for the 3rd time. I've also had some incidents by removing the wrong valve in my home brewery. I've been burned and I also had a partial amputation of my left thumb (long story and not related to a valve, but stainless steel is VERY sharp). We'll be using a small piece of red ribbon to mark triclamps that should not be removed on the big boy brewery.
Safety first!
Great info, thanks! Would love to see more vidz!!
Thanks, I have about 35 beer education vids on my playlists. Make sure to check them out for some entertainment, cheers!
Great videos
Cheers!
Protip: Put a clothespin on the tank side butterfly nut. Non-intrusive and you'll know you've f'd up when you grab it.
Hey Jasper
Thanks for the videos. Very informative.
Have you ever used plastic fermenters? If so, a short video as a follow up to this one on how the process is different, would be super helpful.
Thanks for the suggestion. I haven't used plastic before but I know the plastic technology has came along ways. Cheers
Great video!
There should be some kind of padlock on the "dangerous" clamps so that you immediately realize it's the wrong one
Definitely , maybe color code..
Maybe something like in the aiplanes "remove before fight" in this case " do not remove "
Hurrah your back! :) :)
For a bit :)
Can you do a video on changing pump heads and other common hiccups that occur?
Brewer = mechanical janitor
Hey Jasper amazing work thanks, just a dumb question, if you accidently opened the wrong clamp on the spray ball arm and blew out all the pressure, why would it ruin the batch of beer?
Thanks, no worries, not a dumb question. For me a few reasons it would ruin a batch of beer are; I would lose alot of desirable aroma, head retention would be trashed, I'd have to force carbonate the entire batch rather than last 25% of vols. A good rule of thumb is to treat your beer gently, this volcano would be the exact opposite, cheers.
Great vid! I see that you keep it at 10 psi, I'm sure that it carbonates as you're waiting (especially at 32 degrees). Do you change the psi for beers that you like carbonated more?
Thanks, final vol adjustment is done in the bright tank per brand. Head pressure wouldn't over carb your beer on this scale if your moving your product quickly. Therefore all cellar tanks are kept at 10psi. Other breweries with different proceeses may require it though.
We mostly have fermenters with only one arm for CIP/Blowoff at the brewery I work at. A couple of tanks have the two arm system, I find if the krausen is getting out the blowoff arm it will definitely be settling in the CIP arm too. You can't win either way :D ... Maybe your tank design differs from ours though!
Definitely hard to win. Thanks for the comment.
Congrats, nice tips
Hi Jasper! Your videos are the best, thanks. What are the male and female parts for keeping 10psi on the tank? The Tri clamp male and quick connect female ones. Legend! Thanks.
Drunken Master air quick connect male and female like you would find coming off a compressor.
Great video as always Jasper.
What rate do you drop the hops out at? I still find that the hops stick to the sides of my cone and the level doesn't come down uniformly like I want.
Hey @BreweryLife, what hose are you using for CO2? We've used silbraid highpressure, food grade hosing, but wanted to switch to something that can roll up in a hose reel.
D00D, you are awesome!
Cheers man!
If 1.5" triclamp fittings are good for those tanks I have no idea why they put 2" dump ports on homebrew unitanks.
Jasper, On the first drop after fermentation begins are you still pressurizing the tank?
Slightly just for the drop, yes.
Hey man the cellar hose you have there, any idea where to order them? The grey/purple one
Google "Brewers Hose" and there should be plenty of options, cheers.
Is there a specific reason you like to keep the tank pressure at 10 psi? Like the size of the tank, tempertature, etc?
How do you dry hop in an FV tank when it's pressurized? do you release the pressure then add in the hops (but then that would let oxygen in). Or do you feed it through the bottom of the cone? Anyone able to answer this? Thanks!
Rarely do breweries do this, but it is possible to mix hops and wort/beer in brink and then pressure feed it through the raking arm.
Releasing pressure would be the way to go.
On your website, the "link" of Now available on Amazon’s Kindle, The eBook is broken. Thank you for the video!
Fixed, thanks for letting me know cheers!
If dropping the cone with blow off tube directly and without adding pressure to the tank (although my pressure is around 8 psi) can it be that oxygen is introduced in the tank do the punching hole you mentioned? Also, can it be that dropping the cone just with a blow off tube could make a more foamy product to come out?
WOW!!! SO you ferment under pressure? Is that normal in the beer world?
Reenactor Guy , I believe he cold conditions under pressure.
A lot of breweries do ferment under pressure towards the end of fermentation via a spunding valve. This allows recapture of CO2 produced during fermentation so when you go to cold crash it helps partially carbonate the beer. This cuts down on CO2 required to carb the beer in the brite tank and is also useful to better compact solids out of suspension (via head pressure).
Cheers 🍻
Jonathan has a great comment here, thanks for contributing man, cheers
Good job
Why don't you make a video on mashing and filtration of ferment in microbrewery
I think I did, cheers
@@brewerylife3596 please send me the link to view it .you explain well nice keep it up
What is the name of your brewery?
I was curious too and found it. Higherground Brewing Co.
I'm sure if you look hard enough you will find it. I don't do this to advertise my brewery just promote beer education, Cheers
Thanks again for the awesome vídeo Jasper! One question, I'm having a hard time harvesting yeast on dry hopped beer. It seams all it comes out is Hops and I can't get any clear yeast. Should I harvest BEFORE I dry hopp? I usualy blow some CO2 on the botton of the fermenter to agitated the hops after a couple days of DH.
Thanks for watching. Dry hopping and yeast collection is common problem in breweries. Ill try and make a video on it.
Do not harvest yeast after dry hopping. Better yeast management would be to harvest before you dry hop. Hops dramatically reduce the yeasts viability and may cause lots of issues for future brews if your re-pitching garbage/tainted yeast.
Harvest before dry hop.
So question, say you're only doing 1-2bbl batches...If you dont have a way to counterpressure a yeast brink, would it be acceptable to use the diaphragm valve for flow control for yeast collection in half gallon mason jars?
Diaphragm valves can definitly help with flow control but if the pressure difference is huge it might not help. Only way to tell if it was acceptable would be to count your yeast after harvest and make sure its above 90% viability. Cheers
Question... Is it better to use the alcohol solution vs. something like star-san or is that just your personal preference. Cheers and keep up the great work.
alcohol solution...IPA or EtOH
In this application, Yes. 70% Iso has a kill time of 10secs. Star san has a kill time of 2mins....70% Iso is cheaper and doesnt require any extra steps of dilution. 100x better in my opinion. BUT DONT SANI YOUR CARBOY WITH IT.
@@brewerylife3596 wouldn't make more sense to use non denatured EtOH? similar kill properties and cheap too.
If worried about touching product EtOH should be used because its food grade. So here I call a grey area. I only use EtOH when harvesting yeast or transferring beer not dropping cone or sample valves but maybe I should start.. It is more dangerous to store. Iso is the preferred surface sterilant for medical, pharmaceutical, and microbiology labs. Thanks for the comment man!
@@brewerylife3596 awesome thank you!
Even though the stuff at the bottom of the fermenter will be thick, are you not worried with the diaphragm valve closed that the sludge could potentially displace the air pocket between the tank dump valve and diaphragm valve? Or maybe it's just me and my oxygen paranoia!
As long as you're able to throttle flow with the tank valve I don't see the purpose of the additional valve you attach.
Leaving the diaphragm open just a crack is a great thing to do. I found using the diaphragm this way makes dropping far easier. If youre happy with just the butterfly no reason to change. If dropping hops is a pain this helped me. Happy brewing.
@@brewerylife3596 cool man, whatever works for you! Everyone has their different methods for sure!
Actually, the two valve setup is essential because otherwise the pressure drop across the upstream butterfly valve will usually cause CO2 breakout (foaming) in your sight glass and you won't be able to assess clearly what is flowing out. The idea of the diaphragm (or even a second butterfly valve if you don't have one) downstream of the sight glass is to control the outflow AND take that pressure drop where it doesn't affect your vision of what's in the sight glass.
And yes, there is a risk of air backflow if the second valve is completely closed. I crack it slightly to ensure positive flow away from the tank at all times, and then open up the tank butterfly fully so that flow control is then taken by the second valve. (As taught me by my mentor/coach Rockstar Brewing Academy). Cheers!
Great point, thanks for the comment!
why not swap out the ones that will kill you for ones you need a tool to remove?
I know I'm juiced up for some brew vids, instead of buying that diaphragm valve I use a new fangle approach of pinching a silicon hose =)
Hey Jasper. Any plans for more of your great videos?
no plans yet i guess..........hes busy brewing...........
alcohol solution better than starsan?
In this application, Yes. 70% Iso has a kill time of 10secs. Star san has a kill time of 2mins....70% Iso is cheaper and doesnt require any extra steps of dilution. 100x better in my opinion. BUT DONT SANI YOUR CARBOY WITH IT.
@@brewerylife3596 Iso is better than a bottle of peracetic acid?
Doesnt break down in the bottle and loose effectiveness in 48hrs like PAA. So yes, in my opinion. PAA is my favorite sprayball tank sani though, great stuff!
Alcosan or divosan or 70%alcohol is a better sterilant
Yep, 70% iso is the last thing we use where I work on parts & fittings before hooking them up.100% flashes off too quickly. PAA requires longer contact time to sanitise. PAA for sanitation cycle of CIPs at my place.
Is any job for me in brewery
howdy there xd
Perfecto .....podrás ponerle subtitulo en español :)
Cheers
Health and good beer 🍻 😊
TROOB. The word has its origins in the German word trübe (also trüb), which means cloudy. Only Americans rhyme it with dub.
Thanks for the comment!
Not all Americans. Lol. Trooob troooob trooob.
Did you get out of brewing?
Nope, ive been running a brewery for 10yrs now and still grinding away. Cheers
@@brewerylife3596 that's great! I miss your videos.
dropping cone...... blowing cone.......
WHERE'S YOUR HAIR??????
Haha, right. Donated it to kids with cancer. Good cause to cut it.
Lots of gear but no idea
Such overkill. Omg. You need 2 clamps, 2 gaskets, a hose and a co2 connection.
Gasp... it's almost like brewing beer costs money