I noticed in one of your more recent videos a brief snapshot of the more popular traditional long cylindrical tool. Do you now have both? Which do you reach for first, now? I got one of the knock off cheaper ones shown in this video, mainly because I'll rarely need it and it is probably OK for DIY use. But a pro might feel differently, even if it only reduces his job time by a couple of minutes. I'm guessing this one might not be quite as good for those that are really stuck.... What do you think?
Yes i have both now. I always reach for this tool in the video now when doing inner tie rods. Ever since i got this tool i dont think ive used tthe cylindrical one at all . this tool is a major time saver over using the tube style.
Mate, I had to come back and say thanks. I ordered one of these tools, heated the inner rod end after grinding off the outer rod and OMG, it came off far easier than I thought it would. Thanks!
As i'm so cheap I made my own removal tool. It has 4 nuts welded around the end of a tube with bolts that screw down onto the tie rod flats. The other end has a large 1/2 inch socket bolted in for the breaker bar/ torque wrench to slot into. That new tool looks pretty nifty, might be tempted.
Saw another guys where he took a pipe wrench and cut off the handle. Where the handle would be he welded a socket or square hole. Then you can use a extension and ratchet on it.
I have that same AEM I need tie rod took plus, a $5. Or $10. Dollar tie rod tool that looks like a exhaust clamp shape, it's cheap & works good but, the Aem dominates inner tie rods but, only if the outer tie rod is removed 1st. My green AEM tie rod tool came with 12-15 different size inserts.
Interesting idea! Basically a pipe wrench with a half inch square socket near the teeth, allowing one to stand at the side and exert more torque. A pipe wrench wouldn't work as well because there is not enough room without a lift. The best thing about this is how small it is. Big specialty tools are a pain to store.
I have a stuck inner with red lock tight. I used a 3/4 breaker with 1/2 inch adapter and the oem tool but the tool fails. The c- ring slips and spins around the flats on tierod and the ring on the tool come off. Tie rod will not budge. Think this new tool will work for me? Thinking the rack needs to come out or I need to cut the rod and devise something that I can weld into a 3/4 deep well socket.
Wow, this heather you using, am actually seeing it for the first time, very portable and handy, is is using gas or something, can I get it on ebay. And this tie rod tools is plastic, will this one last? I am happy to watch your tutorial right here, God bless you bruh!
The other tool you reviewed that looks like a muffler clamp, works better. The bite around the inner tie rod is spread out much more. There is no cam to wear out. You don't have to remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. It is less expensive. And can be used for many other applications besides inner tie rod removal. I've used it successfully on several types of cars.
I agreed and also may be use for other application; however, the clamp one seems to be using 3/8 extension compare this one using 1/2/ which is much stronger.
Hi how has this tool held up over the years just curious as I’m looking to see which is the best style of inner tie rod remover for a mk5 golf platform
Hi, I only need to use this two times (left and right side) and I don't need fancy OEM tools comes with so many adaptors and also so expensive. Which you would you pick to repair tie rod for a old corolla. I read some comments down below on the clamps is better because it opened and can adjust to many application (ie faucet, pipes etc.) but the one you show on video seems more solid build and it use 1/2 extension (more power). Which one you will pick? Thank you so much for sharing this video. You going to save me lot of $ on inner tie rod replacement. 👍
Will this tool work on a honda civic inner tie rod, where 32mm wrench fits on the tie rod head? (the head is like a cube and the 32 mm wrech fits on the cube)?? Thank you for your answer!
now i wonder if this tool or the other one in your video which is better, they other one takes longer to setup be ause you have to tighten 2 nuts buy this tool you have to take all them parts off just to get it in. 🤔
The tool in this video is by far the best one. Usually if you're removing a inner you're also replacing the outer tie rod so it's no big deal to removing the outer tie rod. I've gotten cars with bent tie rods due to an accident and it prevents me from removing the outer. That's when the other tool shines. The tool in this video is my go to.👍
Mine came in today took the inter tie rod off was like a hot knife through butter love the choice I made. It did break a loose like it didn't work, but it work well without heat.
@@themechanic6117 only issue I have with using this to install tie rods is if the factory manual specifies a torque value you should tighten the inner tie rod to. With the tube you can just apply the correct amount of torque, whereas if you use this tool you need to do a little bit of math to work out how much torque you need to apply, unless you manage to angle the torque wrench to be exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the direction of rotation
I've read that it is recommended to remove the rack before torquing on the inner tie rods (not to damage or break seals on that rack), but I see many films where Inner TRs are replaced without that complicated procedure. Is it for some models, or it is extra precaution? I changed those Inner TRs on one car (2001 Saturn SL2) and decided to do same thing on 2003 Chevy Cavalier. But there was a white plastic sleeve on the Inner TR of the Chevy, I started to do some research and came across this statement about the seals on the rack. Now thinking that maybe it is a reason, why for both cars Haynes Manual doesn't describe Inner TR replacement. Very confused and would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the good film.
The white plastic is basically a stopper. It limits how much the rack can move to not damage anything. As far as removing a rack to tighten inner tie rods...nobody does that. Simply put it would be crazy. Thats like pulling your whole engine out of your car to change the air filter.
@@themechanic6117Thank you for the replay. I think I expressed myself not exactly: that plastic is not a stopper, it is kind of a soft shell covering the hemisphere of the Inner TR. In one film another person asked same question, bcs he found same plastic (or whatever material is) cover on the head of the Inner TR, but his was yellow color. That smooth shell is tiny, like 2 mm. That person got the answer in the style to remove the rack, to drop the rear subframe and everything of that kind. I agree all that is crazy. he said that the shell should be slided off the The TR head. Maybe in that part he was correct, I'll try to do it tomorrow, but doubt in the success. Maybe it will slide off and after a new TR is installed, it can be put on a new TR head.
@@themechanic6117 I tried to find now, but could not find that film, but I found the link on Impala Forum, where I ended up, that is where he (Doug) gives that recommendations. www.impalaforums.com/threads/inner-tie-rod-plastic-cover.867554/ www.impalaforums.com/threads/inner-tie-rod-plastic-cover.867554/ Maybe that Impala is particularly sensitive, but I think it is a good question to investigate, what can happen and when. And as you said very correctly, there is no single film, which recommend to do it that way (very complicated indeed). And also I found about that plastic cover: it is the plastic shock dampener. In one film he had exactly same thing, so I'll do it that way. It is @4:30 ua-cam.com/video/BrAf5_FA5eE/v-deo.html Now I'm curious was it supposed to be that dampener on the Saturn I did before, or it is just Chevy, which has it? Maybe mechanic who did the Saturn Inner TRs before me just didn't put them on? Maybe that part is not so crucial, since no one put that plastic dampener on a new TR, besides like in that film above. Thank you for the attention to my question.
I see what you're talking about. I typically slide off the shell to change the inner TR then slide it over the new inner TR just how it was. Sometimes they go missing over the years. Someone forgets to put it back on. Its not really important seeing that most cars dont have them but if a car comes with one i always put it back on.
I have another question on torque specifications for 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier. For some reason many torques are very confusing on this car. I need just 2 of them: 1. For the Jam Nut on the Inner-Outer rods connection. What I found on forums (31-55 Ft-lbs), e-manual (nothing) and Haynes book (nothing), I think it is obvious mistake) varies a lot. Maybe it is not that big deal, bcs I'll go for alignment to a dealer anyway, but it would be good to know at least approximately. 2. For Outer TR End Nut. What I found on forums (33-50 Ft-lbs), e-manual (nothing for 2003, 31Ft-lbs for 1995, 44 Ft-lbs for 1997-1999) and Haynes book (84 in-lbs (7 Ft-lbs), I think it is obvious mistake) varies a lot. Thanks God I found in e-manual for Axle Nut 147 Ft-Lbs for 2003 Chevy Cavalier (and not like they give in Haynes 185 Ft-lbs, that was true for earlier models). I was about to apply 185 Ft-lbs and even bought a torque ranch in that range of torques. I even don't know what would happen if I would apply 36 more than needed, maybe nothing, it would be just hard to remove that Axle Nut next time. I think it so confusing for this car bcs there are a lot of variations on torques for models of different years. I would appreciate any opinion on those two torques, mentioned above. Thank you for the film again. For the Inner TR I'll be using that green OEM tool you have.
The inner tie rods have slits in it where u can use a wrench and just keep bumping it it inner tie rods don’t have much torque to them unless whoever put it on did it wrong
I tried two tube style kits on a Honda Pilot and neither fit. One tube would fit but no but that would fit and the other kit wouldn’t fit over the ball on the inner tie rod so I had to take one tube out of one kit then a nut out of the other to make something work. I’d rather try a different style like this.
They need to invent an inner tie rod tool that clamps around the inner rod when you cannot get the outer tie rod off. If you know of one let me know. Thanks
it will not work on all inner tie rods try it on a 94-97 honda accord and any tie rod that has a ball joint where it screws into the rack and pinion it will just turn the tie rod around the ball joint
Took 30 seconds on ebay to find www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Inner-Tie-Rod-End-Tool-33-42mm-Steering-Rod-Rack-Pinion-Removal-Wrench-US-/402326991835?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I've been using this tool for every tie rod job I get and it's my new favorite tool. I don't even bother with my other tools anymore 👍
I noticed in one of your more recent videos a brief snapshot of the more popular traditional long cylindrical tool. Do you now have both? Which do you reach for first, now? I got one of the knock off cheaper ones shown in this video, mainly because I'll rarely need it and it is probably OK for DIY use. But a pro might feel differently, even if it only reduces his job time by a couple of minutes. I'm guessing this one might not be quite as good for those that are really stuck.... What do you think?
Yes i have both now. I always reach for this tool in the video now when doing inner tie rods. Ever since i got this tool i dont think ive used tthe cylindrical one at all . this tool is a major time saver over using the tube style.
@@themechanic6117 so you like this one better than the other one that looks like a muffler clamp?
Does this one here install the tie rods as well?
@@mrbreezeet1 yes this one is better and yes it can install new tie rods
@@themechanic6117
Thank you I already ordered the other style the one that looks like a muffler clamp I hope it will work for me.
Mate, I had to come back and say thanks. I ordered one of these tools, heated the inner rod end after grinding off the outer rod and OMG, it came off far easier than I thought it would. Thanks!
This tool works great ! I use it all the time. Glad it worked for you 👍💪
Thanks to your video, I went and bought this tool. with little no effot, the tie rod came loose. This is my go to tool now.
Ever since i got it , it's the onky tool i use now
Nice demonstration & explanation on a worthy specialty tool.
*_TRUST !!_*
Thanks for the demonstration of this simple, yet effective tool.
Its the first tool i grab for tie rods
I've had the "tube" one for years ... gonna get this one too. thumbs up
Its the only tool i use now. Haven't used the tube in a while since i got this tool
Thanks!!!! I bought this tool based on your video and would have totally overlooked this little guy. It worked like a champ! I owe you one! 👍😁👍
It works great. I use it all the time 👍
Big help. I'm gonna buy this one. It seems it's really useful when we do inner tie-rod jobs of FF cars.
As i'm so cheap I made my own removal tool.
It has 4 nuts welded around the end of a tube with bolts that screw down onto the tie rod flats.
The other end has a large 1/2 inch socket bolted in for the breaker bar/ torque wrench to slot into.
That new tool looks pretty nifty, might be tempted.
Lol sometimes homemade tools are the Best! 👍💪. I used it again today and I got the job done in record time! Can't believe I didn't get it sooner!
Saw another guys where he took a pipe wrench and cut off the handle. Where the handle would be he welded a socket or square hole. Then you can use a extension and ratchet on it.
I appreciate the depth of how you explain the approach of using tools and doing the job
Thank you. Thanks for watching
@@themechanic6117, the link for the tool is not working.
Sorry ebay links are not reliable .
@@themechanic6117 , I see the link now. Thanks. I had to surf on it.
Great
I like how you explain away your mix ups. ☺️ #entertaining #mechanic #winning
I have that same AEM I need tie rod took plus, a $5. Or $10. Dollar tie rod tool that looks like a exhaust clamp shape, it's cheap & works good but, the Aem dominates inner tie rods but, only if the outer tie rod is removed 1st. My green AEM tie rod tool came with 12-15 different size inserts.
I have both of those other two designs of tools. They each have they're place
Would this tool have enough bite to grip a round tie rod without the notch?
Yes I use it all the time on those
@@themechanic6117 thanks!
Thank you for making this
Interesting idea! Basically a pipe wrench with a half inch square socket near the teeth, allowing one to stand at the side and exert more torque. A pipe wrench wouldn't work as well because there is not enough room without a lift. The best thing about this is how small it is. Big specialty tools are a pain to store.
I have a stuck inner with red lock tight. I used a 3/4 breaker with 1/2 inch adapter and the oem tool but the tool fails. The c- ring slips and spins around the flats on tierod and the ring on the tool come off. Tie rod will not budge. Think this new tool will work for me? Thinking the rack needs to come out or I need to cut the rod and devise something that I can weld into a 3/4 deep well socket.
This tools works very well and has never failed me. Id use propane or map gas to heat up the area where the locktite is and then use this tool
I use big pliers or adjustable wrench and a hammer and it always always works
I look forward to you posting a video of that. LOL.
Sweet little tool for the price, I think I will pick one up too. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, this heather you using, am actually seeing it for the first time, very portable and handy, is is using gas or something, can I get it on ebay. And this tie rod tools is plastic, will this one last? I am happy to watch your tutorial right here, God bless you bruh!
The tie rod tool is metal . The torch runs off of propane
Can I use that tool for installation of inner tie rod ?
Yes you can
The other tool you reviewed that looks like a muffler clamp, works better. The bite around the inner tie rod is spread out much more. There is no cam to wear out. You don't have to remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. It is less expensive. And can be used for many other applications besides inner tie rod removal. I've used it successfully on several types of cars.
Its a great tool , definitely a good tool to have
I agreed and also may be use for other application; however, the clamp one seems to be using 3/8 extension compare this one using 1/2/ which is much stronger.
After using both for many years I prefer the one that's in this video
@@themechanic6117 Thank you so much for your suggestion. 👍
I have two vehicles that need new front suspension so im giving this a try👍 Sad that you can buy tools/parts do it yourself and still save money👍
Its a great tool. Works every time
Hi how has this tool held up over the years just curious as I’m looking to see which is the best style of inner tie rod remover for a mk5 golf platform
I'm still using it till this day. No problems at all with it.
Hi, I only need to use this two times (left and right side) and I don't need fancy OEM tools comes with so many adaptors and also so expensive. Which you would you pick to repair tie rod for a old corolla. I read some comments down below on the clamps is better because it opened and can adjust to many application (ie faucet, pipes etc.) but the one you show on video seems more solid build and it use 1/2 extension (more power). Which one you will pick? Thank you so much for sharing this video. You going to save me lot of $ on inner tie rod replacement. 👍
What's the link to the tool?
Link to other video please that uses the other tie-rod clamp tool
ua-cam.com/video/_glvdjMO9Ug/v-deo.html
Legitimately pretty dope
Love the angles and love seeing everything
Besides setting up this should be straightforward on a 14 tiguan
It's my go to tool for inner tie rods
Great video and thank you for it! Would this tool work on a 2011 Honda Pilot?
It should. I been using it for years and it works for 95% of cars I work on.
If the inner track rod is on a ball joint how can you rotate it off?? Bought this tool but my track rod just spins??
Excuse me, left my brain on the shelf that day.
Do we need this tool to install the new inner tie rod ?
Yes
Great vid does it fit a sprinter w906 2012 thanks
I can't say but it's worked for every car I've tried it on so far
How do you tighten it back up?
You can use the same tool to tighten it
Will this tool work on a honda civic inner tie rod, where 32mm wrench fits on the tie rod head? (the head is like a cube and the 32 mm wrech fits on the cube)?? Thank you for your answer!
I haven't found a inner tie rod that this tool doesn't work for. You should be ok with this tool
I was distracted by your head touch. I do luv a good head touch 2 giv u the best advantage u can !
Can this tools be use for installation also?
Yes it can
@@themechanic6117 thank you so much for your reply, I am buying it soon.
@@phsantosh4588 you're welcome
Great video. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Hi,
Can some body help me with the link for the tie rod kit, Otherwise the proper name for this tool
Thank you
amzn.to/39hFA2W
oh Man!, this is great! Nice vid!
I still use it. It works great!
What about cutting the tie rod with an angle grinder to fit it in ?
If you're replacing the inner and outer tie rod I've cut them before
@@themechanic6117 that's right thank you 👌
can you re-install and tighten the rod using that tool?
Yes you can
@@themechanic6117 thanks a lot man.
How this tool hold up since this vid?
Like the vids you do, some humor thrown in with them😁👍🏼👌🏼
It's still going strong. I've used it dozens of times and no issues with it. 💪👍
now i wonder if this tool or the other one in your video which is better, they other one takes longer to setup be ause you have to tighten 2 nuts buy this tool you have to take all them parts off just to get it in. 🤔
The tool in this video is by far the best one. Usually if you're removing a inner you're also replacing the outer tie rod so it's no big deal to removing the outer tie rod. I've gotten cars with bent tie rods due to an accident and it prevents me from removing the outer. That's when the other tool shines. The tool in this video is my go to.👍
@@themechanic6117 thanks great video by the way helps everyone out 👍
Thanks for watching
Mine came in today took the inter tie rod off was like a hot knife through butter love the choice I made. It did break a loose like it didn't work, but it work well without heat.
It's a great tool! It's the first tool I grab for inner tie rods
Your review held true thanks for the great info!
CAN I USE THIS TOOL IN TIE ROD OF NISSAN PATHFINTHER 2000
Don't know.. almost every car I come across this tool is able to get the job done
Did you use this tool to install the new inner tie rod? Or is this just a removal tool. Thanks
I want to know the same thing!
I've been looking at them
Great video
Hi there! awesome video! question can you use this tool for tightening as well? or it's only for loosening? Thanks! liked and subscribed!
It works for tightening also
@@themechanic6117 Awesome thanks!
Nice tool 👍thanks
Its my go to for inner tie rods now
Hi, great review on this tool, thanks 👍🏻
But I’m wondering, can this tool be used for the installation of the inner tie-rod?
Thanks in advance
Yes it can, i use it all the time to remove/install inner tie rods
The mech a nic Ok thanks for the reply, I appreciate it 👍🏻
@@themechanic6117 only issue I have with using this to install tie rods is if the factory manual specifies a torque value you should tighten the inner tie rod to. With the tube you can just apply the correct amount of torque, whereas if you use this tool you need to do a little bit of math to work out how much torque you need to apply, unless you manage to angle the torque wrench to be exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the direction of rotation
Finally getting around to trying this tool- update coming👍
What is the name or model number of the tool?
amzn.to/3zCl9by
Does it work on a 04 Dodge ram 1500 4 wheel drive truck?
I cant confirm that. It works on most cars but i have come across some cars that it doesn't work on...
I've read that it is recommended to remove the rack before torquing on the inner tie rods (not to damage or break seals on that rack), but I see many films where Inner TRs are replaced without that complicated
procedure. Is it for some models, or it is extra precaution? I changed those Inner TRs on one car (2001 Saturn SL2) and decided to do same thing on 2003 Chevy Cavalier. But there was a white plastic sleeve on the Inner TR of the Chevy, I started to do some research and came across this statement about the seals on the rack. Now thinking that maybe it is a reason, why for both cars Haynes Manual doesn't describe Inner TR
replacement. Very confused and would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the good film.
The white plastic is basically a stopper. It limits how much the rack can move to not damage anything. As far as removing a rack to tighten inner tie rods...nobody does that. Simply put it would be crazy. Thats like pulling your whole engine out of your car to change the air filter.
@@themechanic6117Thank you for the replay. I think I expressed myself not exactly: that plastic is not a stopper, it is kind of a soft shell covering the hemisphere of the Inner TR. In one film another person asked same question, bcs he found same plastic (or whatever material is) cover on the head of the Inner TR, but his was yellow color. That smooth shell is tiny, like 2 mm. That person got the answer in the style to remove the rack, to drop the rear subframe and everything of that kind. I agree all that is crazy. he said that the shell should be slided off the The TR head. Maybe in that part he was correct, I'll try to do it tomorrow, but doubt in the success. Maybe it will slide off and after a new TR is installed, it can be put on a new TR head.
Do you have a link to that video you're talking about?
@@themechanic6117 I tried to find now, but could not find that film, but I found the link on Impala Forum, where I ended up, that is where he (Doug) gives that recommendations.
www.impalaforums.com/threads/inner-tie-rod-plastic-cover.867554/
www.impalaforums.com/threads/inner-tie-rod-plastic-cover.867554/
Maybe that Impala is particularly sensitive, but I think it is a good question to investigate, what can happen and when. And as you said very correctly, there is no single film, which recommend to do it that way (very complicated indeed).
And also I found about that plastic cover: it is the plastic shock dampener. In one film he had exactly same thing, so I'll do it that way. It is @4:30
ua-cam.com/video/BrAf5_FA5eE/v-deo.html
Now I'm curious was it supposed to be that dampener on the Saturn I did before, or it is just Chevy, which has it? Maybe mechanic who did the Saturn Inner TRs before me just didn't put them on? Maybe that part is not so crucial, since no one put that plastic dampener on a new TR, besides like in that film above.
Thank you for the attention to my question.
I see what you're talking about. I typically slide off the shell to change the inner TR then slide it over the new inner TR just how it was. Sometimes they go missing over the years. Someone forgets to put it back on. Its not really important seeing that most cars dont have them but if a car comes with one i always put it back on.
That Phillips screw looks like it will be the fail point on this tool but I don’t know for sure since I don’t have one.
As long as you don't lose the screw its all good
I'v never done an inner but I will get one of these
It's the first tool I grab when doing inner tie rods 👍
Great review!
Thanks, just trying to share this neat tool to make people's lives easier lol
I have a stud remover that looks / works similarly... for a minute, I thought I had been using it for the wrong purpose! LOL
Maybe you have been 😂👍
LOL
I have another question on torque specifications for 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier. For some reason many torques are very confusing on this car. I need just 2 of them:
1. For the Jam Nut on the Inner-Outer rods connection. What I found on forums (31-55 Ft-lbs), e-manual (nothing) and Haynes book (nothing), I think it is obvious mistake) varies a lot. Maybe it is not that big deal, bcs I'll go for alignment to a dealer anyway, but it would be good to know at least approximately.
2. For Outer TR End Nut. What I found on forums (33-50 Ft-lbs), e-manual (nothing for 2003, 31Ft-lbs for 1995, 44 Ft-lbs for 1997-1999) and Haynes book (84 in-lbs (7 Ft-lbs), I think it is obvious mistake) varies a lot.
Thanks God I found in e-manual for Axle Nut 147 Ft-Lbs for 2003 Chevy Cavalier (and not like they give in Haynes 185 Ft-lbs, that was true for earlier models). I was about to apply 185 Ft-lbs and even bought a torque ranch in that range of torques. I even don't know what would happen if I would apply 36 more than needed, maybe nothing, it would be just hard to remove that Axle Nut next time. I think it so confusing for this car bcs there are a lot of variations on torques for models of different years.
I would appreciate any opinion on those two torques, mentioned above. Thank you for the film again. For the Inner TR I'll be using that green OEM tool you have.
Lol! Hilarious great vid.!!!
The inner tie rods have slits in it where u can use a wrench and just keep bumping it it inner tie rods don’t have much torque to them unless whoever put it on did it wrong
This was so funny, thanks
😂👍
Good job
Thanks💪
I tried two tube style kits on a Honda Pilot and neither fit. One tube would fit but no but that would fit and the other kit wouldn’t fit over the ball on the inner tie rod so I had to take one tube out of one kit then a nut out of the other to make something work. I’d rather try a different style like this.
Ever since i got this tool Its all i use. I cant remember the last time i used the pipe style
Mayhew Pro 29910 Speedy Universal Inner Tie Rod Tool, the best tool so far
@Angel F Dude that shit is over $100 compared to $20 and does the job ..it's a no brainer🙄
The tool i show here works great every single time
@@themechanic6117 hey broski cuz of ur video I bought the same one and works beautiful 😎👍🏼..replaced both front inner tie rods on a Honda pilot
Great! I've been using this tool since i got it and it hasnt failed once. Glad it helped you to get the job done. 👍💪
What's the name of the tool?
Inner tie rod tool... You can find them on amazon and ebay .
Can u tight with that tool too?
Yes you can
That's an awesome tool for the price! Not sure I'm game to do tie rods though haha I don't have enough grunt 😂
Don't doubt yourself. Just get a longer pipe for leverage and off it comes ! 💪👍
@@themechanic6117 no risk of bending the steering rack?
You can you a pipe within reason. If you feel like you're applying too much force you should stop. Try a little bit of heat
how to name this tool
Inner tie rod tool...
Just like an old stud extractor A little larger
Thats exactly what its like. Works great
i think the angle of rotation is wrong that is why it is hard to remove
They need to invent an inner tie rod tool that clamps around the inner rod when you cannot get the outer tie rod off. If you know of one let me know. Thanks
Thomas EXOVCDS
That or the cutoff tool that applies 8 tons of cutting power to snap the rod in the middle. 👍
The other tool I mentioned. You can use it without removing the outer tie rod.
Johnson Ruth Garcia Steven Williams James
it will not work on all inner tie rods try it on a 94-97 honda accord and any tie rod that has a ball joint where it screws into the rack and pinion it will just turn the tie rod around the ball joint
Yes ive found other cars it doesnt work on but it works for most cars
Won't fit over 2006 Toyota Tundra inter tie rod to small.
Niiiiiiiiiice! (Fab voice)
💪
Simple machines. Relies exclusively on physics, not theory.
Used it again today, and in record time I got tie rods done 👍I'm loving it
Link to tool? Links for everything else smh
Took 30 seconds on ebay to find
www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Inner-Tie-Rod-End-Tool-33-42mm-Steering-Rod-Rack-Pinion-Removal-Wrench-US-/402326991835?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
is there a chipmunk dying in the background??
I fast forward some of the video because neighbors are playing music and they video would be much longer
It is hard because you are in the wrong angle.
Exelkent
With every extension you add you lose more leverage
I thought it was the other way around? Like the more you add the more leverage you get. Or I’m thinking of the longer breaker bar
It is not that tight
Cars suck
Great video thanks
Thank you