Thanks. When I used slurry on my shower area of my bathroom, I didn't make it wet enough and it was a nighmare. I can now see where I went wrong. Also the mixing of it, I followed the tub instructions, but will now follow yours for my next project
A lot of mixed opinions on this one I see. If the wall was damp behind the plaster, then penetrating damp is likely the cause. If the wall is dry behind the plaster, then it's likely condensation. I've been researching about insulating old British bond houses and there's a lot of bad publicity due to the walls never heating up to get rid of the water vapour, so unless the room is air tight, moisture will condense on the tanking.. Time will tell I guess. Nice video 👍
I moved into my brand new house & garage 12 months ago all was well until late Autumn when wind driven rain started hammering the single skin garage. It didn’t take long for the water to penetrate through the brickwork, the builder considered this acceptable (joke) on some days the water was leeching straight through and into the garage forming large pools of water. I had to move my motorbikes to a dry storage area and move everything else out of this useless damp space. The builders agreed to apply an external treatment called Storm Seal which I’m told will repel moisture for a 12 year period 🙄🤣🤣🤣, whilst I’m sure it will help I want to tank the interior walls and hopefully seal off the space so it remains dry for a good length of time. Then I’m going to add some kind of insulation boarding overhead, walls, and the up and over door, plus the screeded floor. The intention is to heat the space and keep the temperature above the dew point to prevent condensation forming and rotting away my bikes, your video has been a great help and I’m confident I can improve things using this tanking process. The brickwork is in good shape (12 months old) so it shouldn’t require too much prep - thanks for the upload some great tips👍
I have similar brick type walls in my basement. And brick floor! I can cement the floors to seal that. I'll look into your tanking products here in the U.S. That's seems ideal. I had good luck with Drylock latex water sealer paint in my newer basement which had the standard concrete blocks. I just need a 2 week preventative where the water table gets higher than the floor in our wet Spring season. Thank you.
It's perfectly fine and like you say water soluble... So the slurry when it drys bonds really good... And as it's a glue it difficult to be driven out by moisture.. perfect for the job.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating I've learned a lot from your channel but have to say I disagree with you on this. I'm a plasterer with a lot of experience in damp proofing
SBR, or Styrene Butadiene Rubber, is a water resistant bonding and sealing agent, and shares many similar characteristics with PVA. One key difference is that, whereas PVA remains water soluble after drying, once dry SBR is not. I don't want the surface waterproof before I apply the slurry.. I want the slurry to soak in.. and not just sit on the surface . PVA allows this thanks .
If using this tanking slurry how does it fair if you put skirting or drilling into wall. Does this comprise the effectiveness, as it will have a route for the damp. Just curious?
If you didn’t source the penetrating damp all you have done is trap water in the brickwork maki g the bricks rot check out Peter wards videos on damp and old houses he’s someone that knows what he’s on about
cant you just put the slurry onto the cleaned brick surface to fill and cracks/holes in the pointing? as it sets like cement i thought this would of worked better
Hi. You’re videos are very informative. I’ve just moved into a new build. What would your advice be on how to paint the interior walls of a garage. Would you put an undercoat on before painting?
Why would you tank a room like that unless it's a cellar with water behind it under pressure, find the cause of the damp and let the walls breath , which they won't do with tanking slurry.
If that's a solid wall, then sand & cement / tanking is the wrong thing to use. That wall needs to breathe with lime materials. Your solution will look good for a while until the damp returns and the wall will retain water.
It's not a complete solid wall and no damp is coming through tanking solution.. this can be used in underground with positive pressure.. the exterior render is getting fixed also.. so no need for lime materials at all... Thanks
As far as I'm aware this product does let the wall breath .it's actually water proof not vapour proof that's why it tells you that if you paint on it then it has to be a paint which is used on lime plaster .
If we went back to hot lime pointing and lime plaster - there would be no need for any of this
Thanks. When I used slurry on my shower area of my bathroom, I didn't make it wet enough and it was a nighmare. I can now see where I went wrong. Also the mixing of it, I followed the tub instructions, but will now follow yours for my next project
A lot of mixed opinions on this one I see. If the wall was damp behind the plaster, then penetrating damp is likely the cause. If the wall is dry behind the plaster, then it's likely condensation. I've been researching about insulating old British bond houses and there's a lot of bad publicity due to the walls never heating up to get rid of the water vapour, so unless the room is air tight, moisture will condense on the tanking..
Time will tell I guess.
Nice video 👍
Well informed video and very professional approach
I moved into my brand new house & garage 12 months ago all was well until late Autumn when wind driven rain started hammering the single skin garage. It didn’t take long for the water to penetrate through the brickwork, the builder considered this acceptable (joke) on some days the water was leeching straight through and into the garage forming large pools of water. I had to move my motorbikes to a dry storage area and move everything else out of this useless damp space.
The builders agreed to apply an external treatment called Storm Seal which I’m told will repel moisture for a 12 year period 🙄🤣🤣🤣, whilst I’m sure it will help I want to tank the interior walls and hopefully seal off the space so it remains dry for a good length of time.
Then I’m going to add some kind of insulation boarding overhead, walls, and the up and over door, plus the screeded floor. The intention is to heat the space and keep the temperature above the dew point to prevent condensation forming and rotting away my bikes, your video has been a great help and I’m confident I can improve things using this tanking process. The brickwork is in good shape (12 months old) so it shouldn’t require too much prep - thanks for the upload some great tips👍
Would this technique work on a detached brick garage?
Great video. Love the way you work.
Thank you .
Looking forward to seeing more of this project 😊
I have similar brick type walls in my basement. And brick floor! I can cement the floors to seal that. I'll look into your tanking products here in the U.S. That's seems ideal. I had good luck with Drylock latex water sealer paint in my newer basement which had the standard concrete blocks.
I just need a 2 week preventative where the water table gets higher than the floor in our wet Spring season.
Thank you.
Never pva before tanking always SBR because pva is water soluble
It's perfectly fine and like you say water soluble... So the slurry when it drys bonds really good... And as it's a glue it difficult to be driven out by moisture.. perfect for the job.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating I've learned a lot from your channel but have to say I disagree with you on this. I'm a plasterer with a lot of experience in damp proofing
@@benfowler9611 PVA is used a lot in wall coatings.. to help promote adhesion.. it will cause no problems.
@@PaintingandDecorating agree to disagree
SBR, or Styrene Butadiene Rubber, is a water resistant bonding and sealing agent, and shares many similar characteristics with PVA. One key difference is that, whereas PVA remains water soluble after drying, once dry SBR is not. I don't want the surface waterproof before I apply the slurry.. I want the slurry to soak in.. and not just sit on the surface . PVA allows this thanks .
If using this tanking slurry how does it fair if you put skirting or drilling into wall. Does this comprise the effectiveness, as it will have a route for the damp. Just curious?
Yes, better to drill all fixings first then apply. Or use liquid no nails to fix trim. Thanks
I tanked out an interior wall which was single skin in an attic room suffering from penetrating damp it dried it up
If you didn’t source the penetrating damp all you have done is trap water in the brickwork maki g the bricks rot check out Peter wards videos on damp and old houses he’s someone that knows what he’s on about
Would this work in a deep cellar below a house where water is seeping in from somewhere? Cellar is about 7 feet deep, big enough to stand up in.
It does say above and below ground.. and resistant to positive water pressure.. thanks
Thank you , your videos are a great source of info ,lost count of how many I've watched 🙂
it says so on the bag
cant you just put the slurry onto the cleaned brick surface to fill and cracks/holes in the pointing? as it sets like cement i thought this would of worked better
👍👍👍
Thank you.
Surely it would be better to solve the issue of the damp coming through the wall? Tackle from outside or roof?
It's all getting done but the customer wanted to make sure if it does ever leak again, that it won't come into the bedroom.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Makes sense, who would want to redecorate a room only to see the plaster fall off within a few years due to a water leak!
Agree. Also, mixing older properties and modern products like tanking, plastic anything (paint, spray foam) doesn't seem a good idea.
👍👍
Tank you.
Where can I find a brush like that? Do you know the make please?
Hi. You’re videos are very informative. I’ve just moved into a new build. What would your advice be on how to paint the interior walls of a garage. Would you put an undercoat on before painting?
Thank you.. I would use exterior emulsion.. you can do a mist coat or use diluted PVA to seal the brick or block..
Why would you tank a room like that unless it's a cellar with water behind it under pressure, find the cause of the damp and let the walls breath , which they won't do with tanking slurry.
After endless averts first 6 min I left this video,,, advert overkill don`t like people who do this
It's not me that controls the number of adverts.
T
Use SBR
If that's a solid wall, then sand & cement / tanking is the wrong thing to use. That wall needs to breathe with lime materials. Your solution will look good for a while until the damp returns and the wall will retain water.
It's not a complete solid wall and no damp is coming through tanking solution.. this can be used in underground with positive pressure.. the exterior render is getting fixed also.. so no need for lime materials at all... Thanks
As far as I'm aware this product does let the wall breath .it's actually water proof not vapour proof that's why it tells you that if you paint on it then it has to be a paint which is used on lime plaster .