Great video Mr.Sessa.What I use for deburring and reaming PVC pipe are deburring and reaming bits that I use for lock work and the deburring and reaming bits work fantastic because the deburring and reaming bits that I own and use are meant for metal so they work beautifully on PVC pipe.I have a dedicated deburring and reaming tool for copper pipe as well because there is nothing more important than using the right tools for a job.God bless you and yours Mr.Sessa,thank you for another great video.
Bob, Great video. I know I am late to the party, but I just saw this today for the first time. I love the grooving the pipe trick. Here is a trick for all to try. To mark a square line around any cylinder, wrap a piece of paper with a straight edge around the cylinder so that the edge is straight as it goes all around the cylinder. Mark the edge with your Sharpie. You can use paper, the blade of a steel tape or plumbers' hanger strip.
DEB4 is excellent along with a pencil reamer, however you should use the Reed tube cutter, the Milwaukee pvc shear tends to cut at a bit of an angle nothing is as squared off like a tube cutter.
When you're roughing a whole house, nobody sits there and deburrs every single cut they make. It's just not practical and wastes too much time. We kinda just run our hands around the cut with gloves to get rid of the chips and burrs, occasionally maybe whip out the knife for a particularly bad cut or something. It doesn't have to be perfect. That's the thing with PVC, it's extremely forgiving. As long as you prime and glue it good, it's going to hold just as good as if you sat there for 20-30 seconds and deburred each pipe and do it 'properly'. And a sawzall works beautifully to cut PVC pipe. A quality sawzall, a straight blade, and decently skilled operator will give you straight cuts every time. And again, it doesn't have to be perfect because PVC is forgiving. I've never seen somebody whip out a hand saw to cut PVC and mark it that way all around the pipe. It takes far too long, you'd get laughed off jobs by other plumbers if it takes you 3 minutes to cut and deburr one pipe. This is the DIY way maybe, but no professionals do it this way. Time is money.
Thanks for the time and cost for this experiment - well worth your time to share with the planet. From my own experience just doing a dozen or so joints (I hate it when it seems that l need to do more than planned) i have found that a pair of scissors works a treat. If you open the scissors out and use the inside of the blades, you can debur both the inside and outside of the plastic pipe. It’s a fallacy to assume that it is necessary to chamfer entirely the outside diameter, even with push fit (0 ring) fittings. I’m sure the “professionals” won’t be bothered by that, if at all deburring!! Of course, l used a silicone spray on my push fit joints, but a drop of washing up liquid is apparently acceptable.
Use a pipe wrap to make a perfect mark around the pipe we use these on boiler tubes that have to be beveled before welding much faster than connecting your dots a pipe wrap can be as simple as gasket material kept rolled up with a rubber band so that it wants to wrap around the pipe on its own
I use a Sawzall but I use the same method on bigger pipe, mark it on 2 sides and use a breeze clamp to guide a marker around, then remove clamp and spin the pipe while I follow the mark around the pipe
Enjoy watching your videos I tell all the new young guys that start working with us to watch you videos to get some references on the trade deb4 is my way to go
Man just alittle late I just ordered the last 2 to replace some old drains with pvc. I was looking at the hand cone thankfully I didn't order that one but I did order the deb4 and the drill powered cone so its nice to know go at it slow not full speed.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos yes thank you I saw that. Im glad you made this video as i never heard of beveling pvc pipe before and just recently learned of it and always want to do a better job.
Bob, back in the 80’s when I started my apprenticeship we used a 14” chop saw with a wood blade (plywood) to cut PCV doing new SF, duplex, townhomes they also had a 14” chop saw with an abrasion blade to do bevel cut manual by pushing the pipe as close to a 15 bevel than a utility knife inside debit. I still have a chop saw and still use a hacksaw or pvc saw for small jobs and a utility knife. I agree the db4 much easier. While I was watching you use the hand cone one I was thinking they make one for copper and was wondering if it’s a pain in the ass to use on copper as well?
Thanks for the great tip about sawing a grove before cutting through with a hack saw; I never had the presence of mind to do that before. This is slightly off topic but since you are talking about tools, I'd love to see a video about the tools and methods for removing PVC pipe from PVC fittings; for example removing a nipple from a PVC shower drain. Thanks
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Lets say for some reason The PVC Nipple -which is usually short -that connects the PVC shower drain fitting to the PVC trap is leaking, and you don"t want to to brake up the shower floor and take out the shower drain and replace the membrane, drain fitting and trap and tile. while I realize you can usually patch a PVC leak I am interested in the tools used to remove PVC pipe from fittings and how well they work if for some reason a patch wouldn't work. Thanks bob.
@@588158 most supply houses will have whats called a socket saver. They have an inner guide that is the size of ID of the PVC. It goes on your drill and you basically drill out the pipe from the socket. Fitting can become a little loose but I usually double up the primer application and put glue on the fitting and pipe twice before inserting.
I bought the milwaukee pvc cutter . Well that was cash in the trash . Lasted a whole 2 days . Then I bought a stupid ryobi pvc cutter . Wow it’s has lasted 2 years and still working and a whole lot cheaper .
Jim is this why when dry fitting pieces you can't get them fully seated? I was afraid even with priming and glue it might not fully go all the way in and would alter my measurement. I am cutting a section of PVC out and putting in a union for my air conditioner condensate drain line so I will have access if it plugs in the future near the trap.
@@Charles-in3zt Yes, the interference fit will prevent you from fully seating fittings during a dry fit. If you prime and glue correctly you will have no problem seating, but you may need to push hard and hold for a bit. If you don't hold the fitting in its seated position, the joint will unseat by itself. 15-30 seconds is generally enough time for the joint to hold.
@@jimcervantes5659 Thanks very much Jim. I forgot to hold it in place and I know I turned it probably a full turn before it seated. I have a lot to learn. I was nervous knowing you have to work fast. So far it is not leaking, I will hope for the best.
@@Charles-in3zt Always glue as you go and never dry fit more than 1 or 2 joints at a time with PVC. Pipe always goes in a little further once you glue it so if you dry fit too many at once, when you go to glue it all your measurements end up being off by a little bit. It seems like dry fitting would be the right thing to do if you've never done it before and you don't have the confidence yet but it's a beginner's trap.
If you have the room to rotate a P.V.C. cutter, that would be my first choice. Otherwise I would use a reciprocating saw with the finest blade I could find. Or Hack Saw, 24 0r 18 teeth per inch. Get it as close to "square" as possible.
Another great video. I searched your channel but couldn't find a video about changing old galvanized water pipes to copper or pex. I want to install a new shut off valve on my main line, but I don't know how to deal with these old supply lines we have here in NYC. Any advice, or better yet maybe you have a video hidden somewhere? Thanks for all the great info you share!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I was thinking of still keeping the old valve and installing a new one down stream from it. It still works but it is very old. I'm worried one day I'll go to shut off the water and it will fail. That's why I'm thinking about doing this. I know how to work with copper and pex, but don't know the first thing about working with galvanized water lines. Any info you could provide would be very helpful because I'm having a hard time finding anything online.
@@thaitichi You still have old galvanized pipe in your home? Tricky, you sometimes go to remove a fitting and the galvanized threads will snapp off. Then it becomes somewhat of a job. If you can unscrew it i would convert to a brass fitting first then to copper. Copper and galvanized do not go well togather, it's causes corrosion. P.E.X is an option but it's not legal to use for domestic water in N.Y.C. If you want to forward a few pictures of the job with a detailed description of what you want to do, i'll take a look. Send them to info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos The cuts are not square because near the end of the pipe the cutter's squeezing force flattens the pipe significantly during the cut (and it varies during the cut to boot). Dry fit a bushing in the end of the pipe, just make sure you don't jam it in hard (it can be very difficult to get it out). All you need is for the bushing to be squarely inserted and pushed in a little bit to hold it in place for the cut. This will yield perfectly square cuts. Works as well with manual ratcheting cutters. And as Analog Smog said you have to brace the none blade side of the jaws squarely against the pipe until the cut is underway.
Okay I have a basement and I have no water outage or drain on the floor this house is old and I'm repairing it any suggestions I brought PVCs to to do my house but I want to take the cast iron out or do what you was telling me to put the cast iron with PVC what do you suggest
Great video Mr.Sessa.What I use for deburring and reaming PVC pipe are deburring and reaming bits that I use for lock work and the deburring and reaming bits work fantastic because the deburring and reaming bits that I own and use are meant for metal so they work beautifully on PVC pipe.I have a dedicated deburring and reaming tool for copper pipe as well because there is nothing more important than using the right tools for a job.God bless you and yours Mr.Sessa,thank you for another great video.
Bob, Great video. I know I am late to the party, but I just saw this today for the first time. I love the grooving the pipe trick.
Here is a trick for all to try. To mark a square line around any cylinder, wrap a piece of paper with a straight edge around the cylinder so that the edge is straight as it goes all around the cylinder. Mark the edge with your Sharpie. You can use paper, the blade of a steel tape or plumbers' hanger strip.
Your honestly is one of the many reasons your videos are worthwhile. Keep up the good work.
I appreciate that!
DEB 4, a pencil reamer and a Ridgid tubing cutter for pvc are my goto tools!! Better quality glue joints for sure!!
DEB 4, the winner hands down.
Agreed
DEB4 is excellent along with a pencil reamer, however you should use the Reed tube cutter, the Milwaukee pvc shear tends to cut at a bit of an angle nothing is as squared off like a tube cutter.
Agreed for sure!
When you're roughing a whole house, nobody sits there and deburrs every single cut they make. It's just not practical and wastes too much time. We kinda just run our hands around the cut with gloves to get rid of the chips and burrs, occasionally maybe whip out the knife for a particularly bad cut or something. It doesn't have to be perfect. That's the thing with PVC, it's extremely forgiving. As long as you prime and glue it good, it's going to hold just as good as if you sat there for 20-30 seconds and deburred each pipe and do it 'properly'.
And a sawzall works beautifully to cut PVC pipe. A quality sawzall, a straight blade, and decently skilled operator will give you straight cuts every time. And again, it doesn't have to be perfect because PVC is forgiving. I've never seen somebody whip out a hand saw to cut PVC and mark it that way all around the pipe. It takes far too long, you'd get laughed off jobs by other plumbers if it takes you 3 minutes to cut and deburr one pipe. This is the DIY way maybe, but no professionals do it this way. Time is money.
Thanks for the time and cost for this experiment - well worth your time to share with the planet. From my own experience just doing a dozen or so joints (I hate it when it seems that l need to do more than planned) i have found that a pair of scissors works a treat.
If you open the scissors out and use the inside of the blades, you can debur both the inside and outside of the plastic pipe. It’s a fallacy to assume that it is necessary to chamfer entirely the outside diameter, even with push fit (0 ring) fittings. I’m sure the “professionals” won’t be bothered by that, if at all deburring!! Of course, l used a silicone spray on my push fit joints, but a drop of washing up liquid is apparently acceptable.
Use a pipe wrap to make a perfect mark around the pipe we use these on boiler tubes that have to be beveled before welding much faster than connecting your dots a pipe wrap can be as simple as gasket material kept rolled up with a rubber band so that it wants to wrap around the pipe on its own
I use a Sawzall but I use the same method on bigger pipe, mark it on 2 sides and use a breeze clamp to guide a marker around, then remove clamp and spin the pipe while I follow the mark around the pipe
What is a Breeze clamp? Thanks for checking out the video!
Enjoy watching your videos I tell all the new young guys that start working with us to watch you videos to get some references on the trade deb4 is my way to go
Awesome thank you!
Man just alittle late I just ordered the last 2 to replace some old drains with pvc. I was looking at the hand cone thankfully I didn't order that one but I did order the deb4 and the drill powered cone so its nice to know go at it slow not full speed.
Slow and steady, you’ll be good to go!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos yes thank you I saw that. Im glad you made this video as i never heard of beveling pvc pipe before and just recently learned of it and always want to do a better job.
Bob, back in the 80’s when I started my apprenticeship we used a 14” chop saw with a wood blade (plywood) to cut PCV doing new SF, duplex, townhomes they also had a 14” chop saw with an abrasion blade to do bevel cut manual by pushing the pipe as close to a 15 bevel than a utility knife inside debit. I still have a chop saw and still use a hacksaw or pvc saw for small jobs and a utility knife. I agree the db4 much easier. While I was watching you use the hand cone one I was thinking they make one for copper and was wondering if it’s a pain in the ass to use on copper as well?
For copper I use two Ridgid models A.amzn.to/3tYDVUl and B.amzn.to/3we5XwU. Regards, and thanks for checking out the video! Bob.
Thanks for the great tip about sawing a grove before cutting through with a hack saw; I never had the presence of mind to do that before. This is slightly off topic but since you are talking about tools, I'd love to see a video about the tools and methods for removing PVC pipe from PVC fittings; for example removing a nipple from a PVC shower drain. Thanks
When you say nipple are you talking about galvanized steel , p.v.c. or cast iron?
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Lets say for some reason The PVC Nipple -which is usually short -that connects the PVC shower drain fitting to the PVC trap is leaking, and you don"t want to to brake up the shower floor and take out the shower drain and replace the membrane, drain fitting and trap and tile. while I realize you can usually patch a PVC leak I am interested in the tools used to remove PVC pipe from fittings and how well they work if for some reason a patch wouldn't work. Thanks bob.
@@588158 most supply houses will have whats called a socket saver. They have an inner guide that is the size of ID of the PVC. It goes on your drill and you basically drill out the pipe from the socket. Fitting can become a little loose but I usually double up the primer application and put glue on the fitting and pipe twice before inserting.
ua-cam.com/video/5HMuuVadcZ4/v-deo.html
I love your channel, so many gold nuggets
Easy straightening of edge after cut: attach a hose clamp. Use a sandpaper holder with sandpaper to flush it square.
I’ve used my knife and a round file to always demurred pvc pipe
I bought the milwaukee pvc cutter . Well that was cash in the trash . Lasted a whole 2 days . Then I bought a stupid ryobi pvc cutter . Wow it’s has lasted 2 years and still working and a whole lot cheaper .
DEB4 is the best. Run the PDEB250 in reverse and it works better on a drill.
I use reed pb 2 < pb3 and pb4 and I love the chamfer it leaves
Great video though. Very informative. Looking at that reed deb4 closely. I have the rigid cone and have been looking to upgrade.
love this guy !
PVC employs an interference fit. You should not be able to push the joint all the way together before cementing.
Interesting. If so, why do the straight 90 and standard 90 joints fully fit?
After this demo, I suspect I didn't chamfer enough.
Jim is this why when dry fitting pieces you can't get them fully seated?
I was afraid even with priming and glue it might not fully go all the way in and would alter my measurement. I am cutting a section of PVC out and putting in a union for my air conditioner condensate drain line so I will have access if it plugs in the future near the trap.
@@Charles-in3zt Yes, the interference fit will prevent you from fully seating fittings during a dry fit. If you prime and glue correctly you will have no problem seating, but you may need to push hard and hold for a bit. If you don't hold the fitting in its seated position, the joint will unseat by itself. 15-30 seconds is generally enough time for the joint to hold.
@@jimcervantes5659 Thanks very much Jim. I forgot to hold it in place and I know I turned it probably a full turn before it seated. I have a lot to learn. I was nervous knowing you have to work fast. So far it is not leaking, I will hope for the best.
@@Charles-in3zt Always glue as you go and never dry fit more than 1 or 2 joints at a time with PVC. Pipe always goes in a little further once you glue it so if you dry fit too many at once, when you go to glue it all your measurements end up being off by a little bit. It seems like dry fitting would be the right thing to do if you've never done it before and you don't have the confidence yet but it's a beginner's trap.
If you are cutting pvc pipe that is already in place you cannot rotate it with your method. How would you cut it in that situation?
If you have the room to rotate a P.V.C. cutter, that would be my first choice. Otherwise I would use a reciprocating saw with the finest blade I could find. Or Hack Saw, 24 0r 18 teeth per inch. Get it as close to "square" as possible.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks.
Another great video.
I searched your channel but couldn't find a video about changing old galvanized water pipes to copper or pex. I want to install a new shut off valve on my main line, but I don't know how to deal with these old supply lines we have here in NYC. Any advice, or better yet maybe you have a video hidden somewhere?
Thanks for all the great info you share!
You going to install the new valve ahead of an existing valve? How do you plan on shutting down the water to do the install?
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I was thinking of still keeping the old valve and installing a new one down stream from it. It still works but it is very old. I'm worried one day I'll go to shut off the water and it will fail. That's why I'm thinking about doing this. I know how to work with copper and pex, but don't know the first thing about working with galvanized water lines.
Any info you could provide would be very helpful because I'm having a hard time finding anything online.
@@thaitichi You still have old galvanized pipe in your home? Tricky, you sometimes go to remove a fitting and the galvanized threads will snapp off. Then it becomes somewhat of a job.
If you can unscrew it i would convert to a brass fitting first then to copper. Copper and galvanized do not go well togather, it's causes corrosion. P.E.X is an option but it's not legal to use for domestic water in N.Y.C.
If you want to forward a few pictures of the job with a detailed description of what you want to do, i'll take a look. Send them to info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos This seems above my pay grade. I think I'll forward you the pictures. Thanks so much Bob!
DEB4, without a doubt.
The bottom piece of the Milwaukee needs to be resting on the pipe to make a square cut.
I’ve done that and still had a few short pieces crack on me.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos awesome video. Keep em coming!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos The cuts are not square because near the end of the pipe the cutter's squeezing force flattens the pipe significantly during the cut (and it varies during the cut to boot). Dry fit a bushing in the end of the pipe, just make sure you don't jam it in hard (it can be very difficult to get it out). All you need is for the bushing to be squarely inserted and pushed in a little bit to hold it in place for the cut. This will yield perfectly square cuts. Works as well with manual ratcheting cutters. And as Analog Smog said you have to brace the none blade side of the jaws squarely against the pipe until the cut is underway.
Okay I have a basement and I have no water outage or drain on the floor this house is old and I'm repairing it any suggestions I brought PVCs to to do my house but I want to take the cast iron out or do what you was telling me to put the cast iron with PVC what do you suggest
Not sure I'm understanding the question? You want to convert cast iron to P.V.C ?
power miter saw cuts pvc nice
I couldn’t get the deb4 to work well on 4” abs... not sure if I’m doing something wrong. Any suggestions for tips?
Can u hook it up to a drill?
I’m sure you carry that huge vise on you’re truck .
Not a vise, Mr John. Take another look.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos the point was do you carry that everywhere you go ?
Just watch the reed deb4 product videos.
Holy crap, that is the slowest way possible to cut and glue pipe. It's not rocket science.
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