Excellent. I’m 70 and insulating a shop. Good tips and really like the one about the cardboard up on the top plate. Have a ways to go yet so all very helpful. I have the pleasure as well of shifting everything from one side to the middle as I go to make room. Subscriber.
Your patience shows in the quality of the finished product. Working with acoustic sealant is a bit of a hateful process... very sticky! You did a great job. Thx for the video.
Straightforward and no B.S.! I thought I knew enough already to do this but this step by step instruction in 16 or so minutes gave me number of good tips, Great Video! Keep it coming!🔨🥾
Hi, this is really a great video of how you properly create a vapor barrier! This was very helpful.Thank you. As the other gentleman said, you took your time and covered all steps.
Great Video J! currently I am an insulator apprentice, I would like to learn the trade, my boss don´t want to teach me how to do the vapour barrier yet, cause I´m a newbe hehe, keep uploading more videos of how to put up more vapour barriers on diferent walls, Thank you so much for your video!
Thanks, this was really helpful. A lot of content creators gloss over the smaller steps and just focus on highlights. Glad you left everything in, gives a more complete idea of what this project will need for my situation. If i may pick your brain, assuming you're still active and have free time: I have a OLD one car garage, completely unfinished... Has some old siding (potentially asbestos), and newer siding over that. No vapor barrier on the exterior or interior and no insulation of course. My question is should i focus on wrapping the exterior first to avoid the insulation becoming saturated with moisture? Or would the insulation be able to handle the outdoors humidity spikes, etc? Kind of polishing a turd, so i need to make it as cost effective as possible. Only looking for this garage to last another 5-10 years, and i'd be okay with redoing insulation every 3-5 if needed. No intention of 'finishing' my garage with drywall as it is more a shop than a garage, and the drywall would get obliterated in short order. Thinking OSB or plywood to block off the exposed insulation/barrier and perhaps caulking the seams to make it more 'sealed' and to avoid sawdust making it's way into the studs/insulation... I have access to commercial grade sealants at cost, as i am a glazier and that's one of the few things that carries over. Can you give me your feedback and or ideas when you get a chance @J Of all Trades?
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm glad the details are helpful as well. I renovated a 100 year old house and left a similar finish to your garage on the outside. Potential asbestos based siding covered over with old vinyl. The structure exchanged air 14x per hour. I ended up leaving the outside knowing that the house "breathed" and focused on the inside. Roxul, or Rock wool insulation (which is more water/mold & fire resistant) is what I used on the inside with a 6mil vapor barrier and the same acoustical sealant around the perimeter of each wall. I had the house tested again for air exchange and with new drywall on the inside it went from 14x / hr to 6x per hour. I was comfortable with that and thought that it still moved enough air to not let moisture stick around. I'd give that a try, with an OSB sheet on the inside. Plywood would be good too, better for humid areas for sure. It would depend on the price of the sheet for me. Hope that gives you an option to consider! J
Search for vapor barrier single gang. Home Depot carries them. You could alternatively just cut out a square of poly and use that but these premade boxes work pretty well.
So you stapled before unfolding! Then unfolded did you pull through the staples? If not how do you avoid having an overlapping crease area? Hopefully you understand what I am trying to ask.
Intially yes, just to determine the length of material was needed and to help hold it up when doing this step alone. I felt this worked better then taking a measurement and cutting first (since I wrapped it around the corner). Once unfolded, the poly was pulled off those initial staples to ensure there was no crease. The small holes left were tuck taped.
How would you install it if the walls were higher than the width of the vapour barrier? Would you install the top first and then overlap a piece along the bottom? Or the opposite?
Either would work, it may be easier to handle the small section at the bottom instead of up on a ladder. You just have to make sure you overlap the horizontal seam about 6" and tape with a tuck tape or vapor barrier tape to seal.
The kraft paper faced insulation does a similar job. I don't believe it is quite as good at a total seal. VB would not be needed with faced. If you did apply, you would have 100% thermal break.
You can certainly tape the staples, especially if drywall will not be put on the wall. We did not since we will be going over with drywall. With the drywall tight to the studs the air loss would be minimal. I did tape the top corner staples where I used multiple in one spot with the cardboard to start the install.
A vapor barrier doesn’t create a thermal break. A thermal break would be exterior insulation or a double stud wall where the studs don’t touch each other. It’s actually never a good idea to put something like plastic on the wall over the insulation. You should be using something vapor open so the wall can dry out when moisture makes its way into the wall around your outlets, your window…. I use Siga Majrex but there are a number of good options on the market to use other than plastic.
A gc on a job I was at recently doing. Had me put galvanized steel in a chicken coop. It's heated with propane, and I told him that we should put a vapor barrier on the inside of the wall before steel siding. Because of the heat they were using. He told me the tyvekk outside and the barrier on the inside would cause a moisture issue, and everything in between would rot out. What's your take on this issue? I look these forums up all the time, and it can get pretty messy with personal opinions getting thrown around. I live in MI and the exterior is oak thermal treated wood siding
For the life of me, I never understand why people are putting so many staples in the vapour barrier. For that entire wall I would have stapled top and bottom corners and couple in the middle. That's it. It isn't going anywhere. You put your drywall on and it is forever there.
"Adding a vapour barrier to the wall we insulated on a previous video" ... where is a link to that video? EDIT: Nevermind, I found it ... ua-cam.com/video/KHefF1rcEcw/v-deo.html
Excellent. I’m 70 and insulating a shop. Good tips and really like the one about the cardboard up on the top plate. Have a ways to go yet so all very helpful. I have the pleasure as well of shifting everything from one side to the middle as I go to make room. Subscriber.
Your patience shows in the quality of the finished product. Working with acoustic sealant is a bit of a hateful process... very sticky! You did a great job. Thx for the video.
Thank you for the tip with the cardboard reinforcement to help hold the material. Great!
Straightforward and no B.S.! I thought I knew enough already to do this but this step by step instruction in 16 or so minutes gave me number of good tips, Great Video! Keep it coming!🔨🥾
Hi, this is really a great video of how you properly create a vapor barrier! This was very helpful.Thank you. As the other gentleman said, you took your time and covered all steps.
Much appreciated, I'm glad you found it useful.
Thanks you are a great teacher at 72 I feel like i can do it my garage is not as big as yours.
thanks for the comment, I appreciate it. You can do it!
When I use acoustical sealant, I also do a bead of it around the windows and any outlet boxes.
Great Video J! currently I am an insulator apprentice, I would like to learn the trade, my boss don´t want to teach me how to do the vapour barrier yet, cause I´m a newbe hehe, keep uploading more videos of how to put up more vapour barriers on diferent walls, Thank you so much for your video!
Nice job on the content! Your attention to deal was appreciated.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate that!
Thank-you so much this is really helpful!
Very helpful, thanks for posting.
Great walk through. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Great to hear, Thank you!
Thanks, this was really helpful. A lot of content creators gloss over the smaller steps and just focus on highlights. Glad you left everything in, gives a more complete idea of what this project will need for my situation.
If i may pick your brain, assuming you're still active and have free time:
I have a OLD one car garage, completely unfinished... Has some old siding (potentially asbestos), and newer siding over that. No vapor barrier on the exterior or interior and no insulation of course.
My question is should i focus on wrapping the exterior first to avoid the insulation becoming saturated with moisture? Or would the insulation be able to handle the outdoors humidity spikes, etc? Kind of polishing a turd, so i need to make it as cost effective as possible. Only looking for this garage to last another 5-10 years, and i'd be okay with redoing insulation every 3-5 if needed. No intention of 'finishing' my garage with drywall as it is more a shop than a garage, and the drywall would get obliterated in short order. Thinking OSB or plywood to block off the exposed insulation/barrier and perhaps caulking the seams to make it more 'sealed' and to avoid sawdust making it's way into the studs/insulation...
I have access to commercial grade sealants at cost, as i am a glazier and that's one of the few things that carries over.
Can you give me your feedback and or ideas when you get a chance @J Of all Trades?
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm glad the details are helpful as well.
I renovated a 100 year old house and left a similar finish to your garage on the outside. Potential asbestos based siding covered over with old vinyl. The structure exchanged air 14x per hour. I ended up leaving the outside knowing that the house "breathed" and focused on the inside. Roxul, or Rock wool insulation (which is more water/mold & fire resistant) is what I used on the inside with a 6mil vapor barrier and the same acoustical sealant around the perimeter of each wall. I had the house tested again for air exchange and with new drywall on the inside it went from 14x / hr to 6x per hour. I was comfortable with that and thought that it still moved enough air to not let moisture stick around.
I'd give that a try, with an OSB sheet on the inside. Plywood would be good too, better for humid areas for sure. It would depend on the price of the sheet for me.
Hope that gives you an option to consider!
J
I Vape the wall then just behind the plasterboard 0 condensate and penetration
I vape twice no issues yet in 20 years
What did you put over the plastic drywall or wood??
Great video! Where do you get those plastic covers on your outlets? What are they called? FYI hot always goes to cold. Cold doesn't come in.
Search for vapor barrier single gang. Home Depot carries them. You could alternatively just cut out a square of poly and use that but these premade boxes work pretty well.
So you stapled before unfolding! Then unfolded did you pull through the staples? If not how do you avoid having an overlapping crease area? Hopefully you understand what I am trying to ask.
Intially yes, just to determine the length of material was needed and to help hold it up when doing this step alone. I felt this worked better then taking a measurement and cutting first (since I wrapped it around the corner). Once unfolded, the poly was pulled off those initial staples to ensure there was no crease. The small holes left were tuck taped.
How would you install it if the walls were higher than the width of the vapour barrier? Would you install the top first and then overlap a piece along the bottom? Or the opposite?
Either would work, it may be easier to handle the small section at the bottom instead of up on a ladder. You just have to make sure you overlap the horizontal seam about 6" and tape with a tuck tape or vapor barrier tape to seal.
Is the vapor barrier needed with faced insulation?
The kraft paper faced insulation does a similar job. I don't believe it is quite as good at a total seal. VB would not be needed with faced. If you did apply, you would have 100% thermal break.
Do you have to tape over the staples you put to hold it in place?
You can certainly tape the staples, especially if drywall will not be put on the wall. We did not since we will be going over with drywall. With the drywall tight to the studs the air loss would be minimal. I did tape the top corner staples where I used multiple in one spot with the cardboard to start the install.
A vapor barrier doesn’t create a thermal break. A thermal break would be exterior insulation or a double stud wall where the studs don’t touch each other. It’s actually never a good idea to put something like plastic on the wall over the insulation. You should be using something vapor open so the wall can dry out when moisture makes its way into the wall around your outlets, your window…. I use Siga Majrex but there are a number of good options on the market to use other than plastic.
Keeps mentioning thermal break, that's not what the vapor barrier does, the clue is in the name, vapor. The insulation deals with thermal.
Is there tyvekk on the exterior wall?
Yes, there would be with Stucco over top
A gc on a job I was at recently doing. Had me put galvanized steel in a chicken coop.
It's heated with propane, and I told him that we should put a vapor barrier on the inside of the wall before steel siding.
Because of the heat they were using.
He told me the tyvekk outside and the barrier on the inside would cause a moisture issue, and everything in between would rot out.
What's your take on this issue?
I look these forums up all the time, and it can get pretty messy with personal opinions getting thrown around.
I live in MI and the exterior is oak thermal treated wood siding
What is the plastic thing around the outlet called/How is it spelled?
It is called a Vapor barrier boot, or outlet box single gang boot.
For the life of me, I never understand why people are putting so many staples in the vapour barrier. For that entire wall I would have stapled top and bottom corners and couple in the middle. That's it. It isn't going anywhere. You put your drywall on and it is forever there.
"Adding a vapour barrier to the wall we insulated on a previous video" ... where is a link to that video?
EDIT: Nevermind, I found it ... ua-cam.com/video/KHefF1rcEcw/v-deo.html