Menards sells the 16' long V shaped protrusions with screws for $21 each and they should easily support the sagging damaged areas of the door. Pretty sure that the welding won't work and you helped me stay away from that option. Thanks
Those V braces will definitely work, but I can't use them due to how close the door is in relation to our vehicle we park in there, which is why I went with flat bar. Good to know Menard's has the braces, though, and thank you for sharing that info.
That door doesn't open completely flat. A standard strut is unlikely be lower than the bottom of that door as it opens now. And only _really_ custom doors open lower than the door opening. Even in the video, comparing the beginning video to the end video, that sag looks lower than what a standard strut would be. I find the reasons given for preferring this over a standard strut to be unconvincing.
Thank you for your insight. The part about the strut taking up space refers to when the door in in the closed position, rather than the height when open.
@@AlsAutoandAppliance Ohhh, ok. I never thought of that. Ya, some garages are a real tight fit. I think, however, as long as the strut was above bumper height, it would work, depending on what other modifications you have on the vehicle. You would be SOL on the bottom joint for sure, tho, without modifying the strut. That's something I forget about because when I house shop the garage is the first place I look. If it's inadequate, don't even bother showing me the rest of the house, lol.
Bought a 1/2”x1/2”x8’ aluminum angle bar with 1/32 thickness at Lowe’s. Cut into two pieces and riveted between each crack. Working so far.
Looks cleaner
Awesome! So far mine is holding up since I posted the video.
Much stronger repair is to run a piece totally across the total garage door. Not flat but Galvanized strut stock.
Menards sells the 16' long V shaped protrusions with screws for $21 each and they should easily support the sagging damaged areas of the door. Pretty sure that the welding won't work and you helped me stay away from that option. Thanks
Those V braces will definitely work, but I can't use them due to how close the door is in relation to our vehicle we park in there, which is why I went with flat bar. Good to know Menard's has the braces, though, and thank you for sharing that info.
About to save me a lot of money. Thank you
Hope it worked out for you. :)
Very helpful I enjoyed watching 😎👍
Awesome post, thanx 🤘
Glad you liked it!
That door doesn't open completely flat. A standard strut is unlikely be lower than the bottom of that door as it opens now. And only _really_ custom doors open lower than the door opening.
Even in the video, comparing the beginning video to the end video, that sag looks lower than what a standard strut would be.
I find the reasons given for preferring this over a standard strut to be unconvincing.
Thank you for your insight. The part about the strut taking up space refers to when the door in in the closed position, rather than the height when open.
@@AlsAutoandAppliance Ohhh, ok. I never thought of that. Ya, some garages are a real tight fit. I think, however, as long as the strut was above bumper height, it would work, depending on what other modifications you have on the vehicle.
You would be SOL on the bottom joint for sure, tho, without modifying the strut.
That's something I forget about because when I house shop the garage is the first place I look. If it's inadequate, don't even bother showing me the rest of the house, lol.
you need an angle to avoid flexion movement.
That is true, but my space is limited so I can't use angle stock which is why I used flat stock.
Greetings. Introduction and trailer for your channel would like to do? The price is ridiculous for you.) KK_vsyh
Not much info for an eleven minute video. C+ at best.
Thank you for your honest insight. Glad you stopped by! 🙂