Wyatt, you cram more information, all clearly explained and easy to understand, into virtually ever car-related video on the web better than anyone else. I really look forward to every new video Team O'Neil posts. GREAT content, always!
I still love our Evo-X with programmable center differential. :D No changing diffs, just a good engineer and a laptop and "A bit more loose on braking, a little more stable mid-corner and keep the same on acceleration" suddenly is a 5 minute job. Requires a bit of a different approach as the driver but since I've learned it I'm loving the flexibility of it!
I would love to hear one of Wyatt's no nonsense reviews around more things like the Focus RS's awd system (I know he talked about it, but more specific examples would be great), or the Ford Raptor's 4A mode in its transfer case. They seem like electronically controlled systems with performance in mind, but it's hard to know how well they really work under the marketing fluff
If I remember right they tried the Focus RS and found that under heavy driving conditions the rear drive unit tended to overheat and shutdown, not sure if they ended up fixing it with modifications.
Yes, Ford had issues with the AWD system, not to mention the head gasket issues with them. So did Subaru though, which I must say feels superior, let my bias be known. Last year I test drove the 2019 Ford RS, drove to the dealer in my rusty 99 Subaru RS and overall I wasn't impressed. Would trust my life to the Subaru AWD any day of the week over the Ford AWD. Love what Ford did and their RS, it is the sexiest car on the road with some serious power, but after the test drive, and specifically my full throttle pulls onto the highway, I found I did not trust, nor like, the ford AWD. It was twitchy, unpredictable, and did not feel like I was "on rails" like a good car should. It feels slightly reminiscent of my 07 Volvo S60R, which was terrible AWD (torque vectoring). If I drove the Ford in the snow I'd have much more to say.
I really don't have a clue about what he is talking about but I love the way he is doing it... Great great teacher and evangelist!!!! I could stand here for hours and watch Wyatt teaching even cooking ...
Awesome video! Could you possibly please do one on a service stop? Which blue tarp, what tools, what spares to carry? Thanks so much- love the channel and all the info you all post!
We've got an R1T reservation in to add to our Focus RS; also been hoping to visit Team O'neil some day for proper instruction. Maybe the stars will align. Keep up the great work!
got me a 96 A4 Quattro V6 and the drivetrain makes it feel like a 4x4 truck in 4-low, but it really does feel glued to the road especially in the rain which I used to hate driving in with my previous fwd cars. Viscous coupled permanent all wheel drive, it has a sticker under the hood to remind me before putting it on a dynomometer which I thought was cool to see
Very well done, this is THE video that you're AWD videos were missing. FWIW Borg-Warner bought Haldex so they're basically the same tech. Mine(Chrysler 300) is electronic, and I may be able to turn off ABS/ESC and keep AWD. I have a gizmo(Tazer) that turns it off in the computer. However I lose all the brake differential control so I haven't done much with it. It has a "partial off" setting though that removes the ability for the system to pull power and increases all the yaw and skid thresholds, I very much like that setting.
Put it simply. A full time AWD(probably a 4WD in high 4 as well). Point the wheels and gun it. A part time 2WD with 4WD on demand will push you into the gutter. My experience with On Demand is that the FWD slips and the On'D RWD pushes into gutter at low speeds, 40kph on slight sandy/dusty roads. Not going back.
To what cars could you add a front LSD? I would want a BMW 335xi with it(front and rear), but I don’t know if it would drive because of all the electronics. By the way, what car would u recommend? To add the front and rear LSD?
You mentioned a Tesla video in the description, but i don't see it there. I was curious if y'all planned to do some Tesla AWD will it rally video I found a popular mechanics video, but I thought you said wired?
Great video, thanks! One thing I've been wondering about for a while, and maybe you can give your thoughts: a mechanical diff, even an open one, should give you more overall traction than most electronic systems. Just because the typical electronic ones are only going to react after you've already exceeded available traction on the front wheels; whereas even open mechanical diffs give a more even torque split all the time, avoiding the slip in the first place (for the same torque input). In my head, oversimplified, and ignoring weight transfer: it's double the amount of torque to the ground before losing traction on any wheel. Probably more applicable to somewhere you don't expect slip in normal circumstances -- like wet pavement, I guess.
Ya might think so but no, in particular with open diffs. If all 3 diffs are open the moment one tire spins all the rest lose all their torque. This kinda makes it a 1 wheel drive where all the power is always going to the one of all 4 wheels with the least traction. With even the worst electronic they're basically 2wd when doing nothing, and if there's both an open diff with the brakes doing nothing then yeah it's 1 wheel drive as well but the power is going to the 1 of the 2 driven wheels with the least traction. So with 3 open diffs if the back left tire is on ice that's it, that's where all the power is going. With a FWD based electronic if the back left tire is on ice the fronts still pull.
Owning a 2018 focus Rs and many earlier model Subaru sti’s and wrx’s I would totally agree the Subaru is way more easier to drive to its peak. My RS only really shines when you have plenty experience at the wheel and can understand how the car will react when pushing it. Overall it comes down to wheel time in any system.
Wyatt, what is your Daily Driver? I can't see you driving a modern car. I always feel way more safe in a car I can control, ABS I can usually deal with but traction control is a killer for drivers with any reactive driving skills.
It's a semi-intelligent active system interfering with the car's dynamics... which is also what's between the seat and the steering wheel. So now there are TWO active systems messing with the car's dynamics and most of the time under rally conditions they interfere with each other.
Thank you for all the videos. Fantastic info.. Right now im looking at the Yaris GR 4, that is comming up soon. Any thoughts on the that one? Its possible to get with with Torsen limited-slip differential rear and front and 3 different interchangeable modes 60:40, 70:30 and 50:50. 261Hp is surely to much power for me, but would be fun and fast right? Is this car possible to test for you?
In BMW 3 series (g2x) you can disable traction control and keep 4wd also in x1. I have driven those on track and it can be learned how to car will react. Actually the x1 is most fun in sport mode. You can slide drift or be fast as you wish. Regarding robustness of these pieces I also have doubts if you heavy use them.
Most if not all AWD systems will still work if you press the traction control button. But in a lot of cars to actually disable the traction control you need to remove the abs fuse which disables AWD
HI wyatt, What is the possibility of converting a front wheel drive car to all wheel drive for rally application. Currently if it is running on a 1.6 l NA engine with 1.0 LSD setting. I know its far beyond comprehension to do something like that.. But just out of curiosity.. What would be the inexpensive and easiest way to do it , just to use the car for rallying.. In case if there is a possibility.. Great and informative video by the way..
It really depends on the car... Anything is possible but it would be much less costly to just find the awd car your looking for. Some fwd cars that come with awd as an option will have the same chassis that fits an awd system but again you'd be spending a lot of time and money for something that's just getting it to the level of a stock awd car.
Unless there was a factory 4wd version or at least a version on the same platform it is probably not worth it. You would need to put in a completely new rear axle, probably strengthen the rear attachment points, find a place to put in the central drive shaft and the transfer case or central differential. Most small FWD Cars have transverse engines, which makes all this even more complicated, because there is no room between gearbox and differential to take the power from and turn it by 90 degrees, unless built into the original transmission.
Only if the car in question also was made in awd from factory. In that case it ussually means changing transmission and rear wheel hubs/whole suspension, also installing driveshaft, rear differential and halfaxles.
@@raycar1165 HI, Thanks for the information. The car that i am using for small events is a 2004 model Suzuki Baleno/(Cultis esteem in international market). I am from India, and did try my best to find an AWD version of this car here. Its simply not available> But a version of the same is available in Norway, but importing a scrap car for the same is simply too expensive than the car itself.
Old evos, old audis, even old Renault/Peugeot awd stuff from the 80s and early 90s. If you can get your hands on a celica gt-four or an rs200 or something I doubt you’d be asking this question. Unless you’re talkin Nissan stuff if it’s before the mid 90s it’s gonna be mechanical. There’s not a lot out there, at least in America Audi and subie are really your options for things that aren’t super rare homologation cars that people can’t afford to actually drive. If you’re doing tarmac Nissan and Mitsubishi have entered the chat, but both of those get very electronic very quickly :/ I guess there’s a reason Wyatt didn’t cover many brands in the video
I have a first hand experience with burnt out viscous coupling. It really is as he says, car get completely rubbish on slippery surfaces. Power skips from front to rear, and back all the time and it's unpredictable. Funny thing is that you can't really notice it on dry pavement, even on race track. It only becomes really noticeable in ice and snow. One way how it can be tested is - if you can drive around icy course with pulled handbrake with no noticeable problems (no power losses), you have a busted center diff. Luckily they can be rebuilt, and it's not unreasonably expensive :) ua-cam.com/video/3FGTJH9d9sE/v-deo.html
Assuming no metal to metal contact, viscous couplings rely on the properties of a fluid to stay the same as it ages. It won't. It should be replaced regularly to maintain performance.
So just to be clear if I ever buy an abused impreza, If it's got a worn out viscose coupling can you you fix it by just replacing the fluid? Also another question, will using the handbrake (without any fancy diff dissenenging stuff) quickly wear out the viscous coupling? Thanks
@@kieranmz4614 Two problems - you've got wear on the fluid itself which is a product of heat and age, and the subsequent mechanical wear that occurs as a result of that fluid being out of spec. Among other things, you want a certain minimum amount of lubricity, a specified range of viscosity and good resistance to cavitation in your fluid. As it ages all these properties diminish, resulting in diminished performance of the viscous coupling, but not much damage. As you overheat the fluid it literally bakes and creates abrasive sludge. That, along with cavitation, can drastically increase mechanical wear. Even if there is no sludge, a cavitating fluid literally takes chunks out of metal surfaces. Those bits of metal dust are then suspended in the fluid and act as abrasives - further wearing down the components. So I guess the short answer is probably not. If it's a well maintained rally car, then none of this matters, fluids get dumped at the end of each run. But if it wasn't looked after well enough, then it's possible that the coupling is fucked and a fluid change alone is unlikely to unfuck it. Just like an engine, a regular LSD or an auto gearbox - changing the oil regularly is what prevents damage, it won't fix it if it's already there 😞
@@kieranmz4614 As for the handbrake - I wouldn't. The viscous coupler uses a non-Newtonian fluid (ever seen people walking on custard? I won't bore you with the maths) which, when exposed to shear (like in a slipping viscous coupling), increases in viscosity presumably until it goes solid (like custard). At that point, if the rear wheels are locked, but the front wheels are spinning, something in that chain has got to give. It's just not worth the risk.
@@233kosta thanks for the replies! So for buying an impreza road car for doing some light duty rally stuff, change the diff fluid immediately and treat it like a race car in terms of maintainence as it's probably been abused in past? And hope that itll freshen the front to back power delivery up
@@kieranmz4614 These things have specified service intervals, I'd start there. If it's not making any grinding noises or anything like that, then you might get away with an oil change, but I'd strip and inspect it just in case - then you know exactly what you have. If push comes to shove, you can always replace it and make sure you look after it better
Need some advice. When driving my daughter to ski lessons, and there is some ice and snow, which is safer? A nissan frontier 4x4 truck, or a Subaru forrester awd? Thanks!
To be "safe", just get snow tires for whatever vehicle you already have. I know people buy aspirational vehicles, but them's some expensive ski lessons if you have to pay $30-50k for a vehicle to get to the lesson. The main difference between the two is probably just down to style/ image...
@@shadow6pt533 if you want a family car with offroad capabilities then the subaru forester is prob the best option, only go for the nissan if you actually need a truck
Absolutely the Forester, the Nissan with it's ability to lock 4WD might do a bit better at getting through the parking lot without getting stuck. But pickups are too tall, and too light in the rear to be stable at speed making the Forester a much safer choice.
not much thats more distracting than having the stability control engage abs outta no where when it detects your in a slide. Takes my concentration away from the task at hand for a brief second as I try figure out why my abs is on (Im not on the brakes, and if I am, its ever so light pressure for weight ballance)
But seriously though who is old or classic enough to remember when you were in the mountains or just needed AWD/4WD drive in general and you would have to get out of your car go to your wheels and then spend this hub 😂
The recent videos really demonstrate why Subarus dominate the AWD rally scene in North America. I love evos, and I think they are better cars in many ways, but I'll never be able to justify owning one because as they age and become harder to find parts for. Subarus are ubiquitous.
That's basically it in a nutshell. The EVO is awesome, we just didn't get enough of them imported to the US. I don't have solid numbers, but there are probably 50 WRXs and STIs to every 1 EVO in the US.
Wyatt, you cram more information, all clearly explained and easy to understand, into virtually ever car-related video on the web better than anyone else. I really look forward to every new video Team O'Neil posts. GREAT content, always!
This is a great explanation and I haven't found any other place to get this kinda of car and driving information! Thanks again!
They had answered a question about these distinctions about 3 weeks ago. I also am glad they made a video about the subject. Thank you Team O'Neil!
I still love our Evo-X with programmable center differential. :D
No changing diffs, just a good engineer and a laptop and "A bit more loose on braking, a little more stable mid-corner and keep the same on acceleration" suddenly is a 5 minute job. Requires a bit of a different approach as the driver but since I've learned it I'm loving the flexibility of it!
Who did your tuning I'm curious.
I would love to hear one of Wyatt's no nonsense reviews around more things like the Focus RS's awd system (I know he talked about it, but more specific examples would be great), or the Ford Raptor's 4A mode in its transfer case. They seem like electronically controlled systems with performance in mind, but it's hard to know how well they really work under the marketing fluff
If I remember right they tried the Focus RS and found that under heavy driving conditions the rear drive unit tended to overheat and shutdown, not sure if they ended up fixing it with modifications.
Yes, Ford had issues with the AWD system, not to mention the head gasket issues with them. So did Subaru though, which I must say feels superior, let my bias be known. Last year I test drove the 2019 Ford RS, drove to the dealer in my rusty 99 Subaru RS and overall I wasn't impressed. Would trust my life to the Subaru AWD any day of the week over the Ford AWD. Love what Ford did and their RS, it is the sexiest car on the road with some serious power, but after the test drive, and specifically my full throttle pulls onto the highway, I found I did not trust, nor like, the ford AWD. It was twitchy, unpredictable, and did not feel like I was "on rails" like a good car should. It feels slightly reminiscent of my 07 Volvo S60R, which was terrible AWD (torque vectoring). If I drove the Ford in the snow I'd have much more to say.
I really don't have a clue about what he is talking about but I love the way he is doing it... Great great teacher and evangelist!!!! I could stand here for hours and watch Wyatt teaching even cooking ...
The best way to explain these. Bravo.
You and your channel are like the Paul Harrel of cars. Cheers
Awesome video! Could you possibly please do one on a service stop? Which blue tarp, what tools, what spares to carry? Thanks so much- love the channel and all the info you all post!
I love this channel, you're like the Attenborough of driving knowledge
We've got an R1T reservation in to add to our Focus RS; also been hoping to visit Team O'neil some day for proper instruction. Maybe the stars will align. Keep up the great work!
Great job on the video, next time you guys weld a diff in the shop bring us along.
You're a true gentleman Wyatt, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experince with us.
got me a 96 A4 Quattro V6 and the drivetrain makes it feel like a 4x4 truck in 4-low, but it really does feel glued to the road especially in the rain which I used to hate driving in with my previous fwd cars. Viscous coupled permanent all wheel drive, it has a sticker under the hood to remind me before putting it on a dynomometer which I thought was cool to see
Always on point!!!greetings from Roumania!
omu' e blana..si pasionat...as da un rinichi sa ajung la cursurile lui.. 😅😅
Very well done, this is THE video that you're AWD videos were missing. FWIW Borg-Warner bought Haldex so they're basically the same tech.
Mine(Chrysler 300) is electronic, and I may be able to turn off ABS/ESC and keep AWD. I have a gizmo(Tazer) that turns it off in the computer. However I lose all the brake differential control so I haven't done much with it. It has a "partial off" setting though that removes the ability for the system to pull power and increases all the yaw and skid thresholds, I very much like that setting.
7:53 totally agree. I changed A4 B5 quattro for Skoda Octavia 3 4x4 (Haldex), and now slippery surfaces ≠ fun :(
Well done. Very informative.
Thanks Mark!
Information packed video, thanks.
These videos are super informational and great for people to learn! Great job! Keep up the killer content!
REQUEST: Please make a follow-up video on 1-way, 1.5-way, 2-way LSD as well as a more in-depth comparisons on open/torsen/viscous/clutch/etc diffs!
Wyatt looks like a really smart guy would love to meet him one day😀
Brilliant video! Thank you very much!
I love the research!
how do you test a viscous coupling on a subaru in the snow?
Captivating.
Hey, can the stock AWD 2nd gen CR-V system be good for rally? If not what modification will it require?
really good video! Pity you always skip Suzukis... Yes: I own one, a 4wd swift, and I'd really like to know what you think of it ^^"
yeah likewise seeing a Nissan Pulsar GTiR (50/50 Split Mechanical AWD) in the hands of Wyatt would be fun...
Very informative, thanks
Seems like if a modern car was to be used for performance/rally and it wasn’t a Subaru the best alternative would be a 2wd with a LSD...
Put it simply. A full time AWD(probably a 4WD in high 4 as well). Point the wheels and gun it. A part time 2WD with 4WD on demand will push you into the gutter. My experience with On Demand is that the FWD slips and the On'D RWD pushes into gutter at low speeds, 40kph on slight sandy/dusty roads. Not going back.
To what cars could you add a front LSD? I would want a BMW 335xi with it(front and rear), but I don’t know if it would drive because of all the electronics.
By the way, what car would u recommend? To add the front and rear LSD?
You mentioned a Tesla video in the description, but i don't see it there. I was curious if y'all planned to do some Tesla AWD will it rally video
I found a popular mechanics video, but I thought you said wired?
Crap you're right! It was Popular Mechanics, and I forgot to add to description. Good catch, added now.
peeped the skx
How does Nissan's ATTESA fit into this paradigm?
Great video, thanks! One thing I've been wondering about for a while, and maybe you can give your thoughts: a mechanical diff, even an open one, should give you more overall traction than most electronic systems.
Just because the typical electronic ones are only going to react after you've already exceeded available traction on the front wheels; whereas even open mechanical diffs give a more even torque split all the time, avoiding the slip in the first place (for the same torque input). In my head, oversimplified, and ignoring weight transfer: it's double the amount of torque to the ground before losing traction on any wheel. Probably more applicable to somewhere you don't expect slip in normal circumstances -- like wet pavement, I guess.
Ya might think so but no, in particular with open diffs. If all 3 diffs are open the moment one tire spins all the rest lose all their torque. This kinda makes it a 1 wheel drive where all the power is always going to the one of all 4 wheels with the least traction. With even the worst electronic they're basically 2wd when doing nothing, and if there's both an open diff with the brakes doing nothing then yeah it's 1 wheel drive as well but the power is going to the 1 of the 2 driven wheels with the least traction. So with 3 open diffs if the back left tire is on ice that's it, that's where all the power is going. With a FWD based electronic if the back left tire is on ice the fronts still pull.
@@snek9353 also worth to mention that electronically controlled 4wd will bring power to "undriven" axle before driven ones spin. (At least in xdrive )
Owning a 2018 focus Rs and many earlier model Subaru sti’s and wrx’s I would totally agree the Subaru is way more easier to drive to its peak. My RS only really shines when you have plenty experience at the wheel and can understand how the car will react when pushing it. Overall it comes down to wheel time in any system.
couldn't find link on ur test with tesla...
Wyatt, what is your Daily Driver? I can't see you driving a modern car. I always feel way more safe in a car I can control, ABS I can usually deal with but traction control is a killer for drivers with any reactive driving skills.
It's a semi-intelligent active system interfering with the car's dynamics... which is also what's between the seat and the steering wheel. So now there are TWO active systems messing with the car's dynamics and most of the time under rally conditions they interfere with each other.
Awesome info!
Thank you for all the videos. Fantastic info.. Right now im looking at the Yaris GR 4, that is comming up soon. Any thoughts on the that one? Its possible to get with with Torsen limited-slip differential rear and front and 3 different interchangeable modes 60:40, 70:30 and 50:50. 261Hp is surely to much power for me, but would be fun and fast right? Is this car possible to test for you?
wheres the link to the Tesla video? i would love to see how that handles on a rally course
www.popularmechanics.com/cars/hybrid-electric/a26445757/tesla-model-3-winter-driving-rally-car/
In BMW 3 series (g2x) you can disable traction control and keep 4wd also in x1. I have driven those on track and it can be learned how to car will react. Actually the x1 is most fun in sport mode. You can slide drift or be fast as you wish. Regarding robustness of these pieces I also have doubts if you heavy use them.
Most if not all AWD systems will still work if you press the traction control button. But in a lot of cars to actually disable the traction control you need to remove the abs fuse which disables AWD
You forgot Subaru's ATS systems. The ones that advertise a 60/40 torque split. They are completely controlled by a electronic clutch pack.
HI wyatt,
What is the possibility of converting a front wheel drive car to all wheel drive for rally application. Currently if it is running on a 1.6 l NA engine with 1.0 LSD setting. I know its far beyond comprehension to do something like that.. But just out of curiosity.. What would be the inexpensive and easiest way to do it , just to use the car for rallying.. In case if there is a possibility..
Great and informative video by the way..
It really depends on the car... Anything is possible but it would be much less costly to just find the awd car your looking for.
Some fwd cars that come with awd as an option will have the same chassis that fits an awd system but again you'd be spending a lot of time and money for something that's just getting it to the level of a stock awd car.
The inexpensive way would be to find the car you want wrecked and swap all the parts.
Unless there was a factory 4wd version or at least a version on the same platform it is probably not worth it.
You would need to put in a completely new rear axle, probably strengthen the rear attachment points, find a place to put in the central drive shaft and the transfer case or central differential.
Most small FWD Cars have transverse engines, which makes all this even more complicated, because there is no room between gearbox and differential to take the power from and turn it by 90 degrees, unless built into the original transmission.
Only if the car in question also was made in awd from factory. In that case it ussually means changing transmission and rear wheel hubs/whole suspension, also installing driveshaft, rear differential and halfaxles.
@@raycar1165 HI, Thanks for the information. The car that i am using for small events is a 2004 model Suzuki Baleno/(Cultis esteem in international market). I am from India, and did try my best to find an AWD version of this car here. Its simply not available> But a version of the same is available in Norway, but importing a scrap car for the same is simply too expensive than the car itself.
Basically, Subaru is the way to go, but if you have the money and like to party, Audi with Torsen Quattro is another option.
So WICH Car has a good mechanical awd system, except old subarus…??
pre 2010 audis
True early audi quattro
@@LNFFTW16 so,... a4 and bigger?
Old evos, old audis, even old Renault/Peugeot awd stuff from the 80s and early 90s. If you can get your hands on a celica gt-four or an rs200 or something I doubt you’d be asking this question. Unless you’re talkin Nissan stuff if it’s before the mid 90s it’s gonna be mechanical. There’s not a lot out there, at least in America Audi and subie are really your options for things that aren’t super rare homologation cars that people can’t afford to actually drive. If you’re doing tarmac Nissan and Mitsubishi have entered the chat, but both of those get very electronic very quickly :/ I guess there’s a reason Wyatt didn’t cover many brands in the video
The '06-08' Charger, Magnum, and 300 had a mechanical AWD system.
I have a first hand experience with burnt out viscous coupling. It really is as he says, car get completely rubbish on slippery surfaces. Power skips from front to rear, and back all the time and it's unpredictable.
Funny thing is that you can't really notice it on dry pavement, even on race track. It only becomes really noticeable in ice and snow. One way how it can be tested is - if you can drive around icy course with pulled handbrake with no noticeable problems (no power losses), you have a busted center diff.
Luckily they can be rebuilt, and it's not unreasonably expensive :)
ua-cam.com/video/3FGTJH9d9sE/v-deo.html
Assuming no metal to metal contact, viscous couplings rely on the properties of a fluid to stay the same as it ages. It won't. It should be replaced regularly to maintain performance.
So just to be clear if I ever buy an abused impreza, If it's got a worn out viscose coupling can you you fix it by just replacing the fluid? Also another question, will using the handbrake (without any fancy diff dissenenging stuff) quickly wear out the viscous coupling? Thanks
@@kieranmz4614 Two problems - you've got wear on the fluid itself which is a product of heat and age, and the subsequent mechanical wear that occurs as a result of that fluid being out of spec.
Among other things, you want a certain minimum amount of lubricity, a specified range of viscosity and good resistance to cavitation in your fluid. As it ages all these properties diminish, resulting in diminished performance of the viscous coupling, but not much damage. As you overheat the fluid it literally bakes and creates abrasive sludge. That, along with cavitation, can drastically increase mechanical wear. Even if there is no sludge, a cavitating fluid literally takes chunks out of metal surfaces. Those bits of metal dust are then suspended in the fluid and act as abrasives - further wearing down the components.
So I guess the short answer is probably not. If it's a well maintained rally car, then none of this matters, fluids get dumped at the end of each run. But if it wasn't looked after well enough, then it's possible that the coupling is fucked and a fluid change alone is unlikely to unfuck it.
Just like an engine, a regular LSD or an auto gearbox - changing the oil regularly is what prevents damage, it won't fix it if it's already there 😞
@@kieranmz4614 As for the handbrake - I wouldn't. The viscous coupler uses a non-Newtonian fluid (ever seen people walking on custard? I won't bore you with the maths) which, when exposed to shear (like in a slipping viscous coupling), increases in viscosity presumably until it goes solid (like custard). At that point, if the rear wheels are locked, but the front wheels are spinning, something in that chain has got to give.
It's just not worth the risk.
@@233kosta thanks for the replies! So for buying an impreza road car for doing some light duty rally stuff, change the diff fluid immediately and treat it like a race car in terms of maintainence as it's probably been abused in past? And hope that itll freshen the front to back power delivery up
@@kieranmz4614 These things have specified service intervals, I'd start there. If it's not making any grinding noises or anything like that, then you might get away with an oil change, but I'd strip and inspect it just in case - then you know exactly what you have. If push comes to shove, you can always replace it and make sure you look after it better
Need some advice. When driving my daughter to ski lessons, and there is some ice and snow, which is safer? A nissan frontier 4x4 truck, or a Subaru forrester awd? Thanks!
To be "safe", just get snow tires for whatever vehicle you already have. I know people buy aspirational vehicles, but them's some expensive ski lessons if you have to pay $30-50k for a vehicle to get to the lesson. The main difference between the two is probably just down to style/ image...
@@fredygump5578 yeah, I'll have snow tires on for sure either way. Just trying to learn if one is better than the other.
@@shadow6pt533 if you want a family car with offroad capabilities then the subaru forester is prob the best option, only go for the nissan if you actually need a truck
Absolutely the Forester, the Nissan with it's ability to lock 4WD might do a bit better at getting through the parking lot without getting stuck. But pickups are too tall, and too light in the rear to be stable at speed making the Forester a much safer choice.
Don't mislead people, only open diff has 50:50 torque distribution.
It would be great if you guys would use text overlays. You then do not have to use "cheats sheets" and not have to read them one by one.
not much thats more distracting than having the stability control engage abs outta no where when it detects your in a slide. Takes my concentration away from the task at hand for a brief second as I try figure out why my abs is on (Im not on the brakes, and if I am, its ever so light pressure for weight ballance)
An you jumped the fuses to fake out the computer
where does the STi DCCD fit in all of this?
oh wait nvm u talk about it in the video
Wyatt's knowledge pushed all his hair off his head because there was no more room in there
But seriously though who is old or classic enough to remember when you were in the mountains or just needed AWD/4WD drive in general and you would have to get out of your car go to your wheels and then spend this hub 😂
Blackfly season eh?
#TeamTorSen
B8.5 Audi A4
So Subaru STI is answer
Best awd iv driven is ......... subaru
Better than bmw, audi, Acura, lexus. Period
Mitsubishi!?!!!!????
The recent videos really demonstrate why Subarus dominate the AWD rally scene in North America.
I love evos, and I think they are better cars in many ways, but I'll never be able to justify owning one because as they age and become harder to find parts for. Subarus are ubiquitous.
That's basically it in a nutshell. The EVO is awesome, we just didn't get enough of them imported to the US. I don't have solid numbers, but there are probably 50 WRXs and STIs to every 1 EVO in the US.
So my b6 audi a4 is better than I thought it was
So basically buy an STI? 😆
Less coffee?