Sir this is the best through video explaining the entire process. You’re a very good instructor/mechanic. Wish you were close to me! Keep up the good work. Enjoyed it!
I am Erik from the Netherlands, few weeks ago my ultraclassic 2003 broke down on our way back home from a trip to superrally in Tsjechië rep., ended up to be a toasted stator. I did make an extra sleeve around the double cables out off the primary for protction, the cables are indeed way to long. I can make miles again with my new stator and rectifier. Nice helpful video...peace on you
Thank you for the great video. I have a 2001 road king I just replaced my stator and voltage regulator. I went back with the oem style stator. I had already ordered it before I seen your video, or I would have went with that upgraded version. Good as new now . Thanks so much I was able to follow along and get it back on the road. Let the good times roll!
The 67868-03 fits years 1994 to 2013. And the 67868-94 fits years 1994 to 2002. Not sure what the difference is because they look the same to me. Hope this helps.
Personally I’ve never had an issue with automatic tensioners on stock parts. If the bike has performance parts then I would recommend manual. Great question. Thanks.
The customer ordered them. I believe from Drag Specialties. If I was going to purchase a replacement I would go with Cycle Electrics. They are made a little better than the OEM
I'm circling back on this. All the parts came in on Thursday (Cycle Electric R/R and stator, new sealed rotor), so I decided to tackle the project. I have nothing to add to the steps here. I'm very mechanical, but the hardest part of all of this is running the R/R wires and getting enough stink on the torque wrench without a cheater. For anyone who needs to do this, stop your search with this video. Start to finish, with plenty of interruptions, took me 2 hours. I will add, buy your parts from Cycle Electric. Do NOT get cheap. If your regulator fails, it could kill your stator, and you'll be out more time and money.
Awesome video man. I have to do this this weekend on my 01 RK. Can you tell me where you got the rotor? I bought a R/R and Stator from Cycle city, but I'm not seeing the rotor. Also, what size is the comp nut and clutch nut?
Thanks for watching. I believe the comp nut is 1 1/2 and the clutch basket nut is 1 3/16. And don’t forget that the clutch basket nut is reverse thread. And I believe I got the upgraded rotor from JP Cycles.
@@butlercustoms Ended up getting the stator on eBaY. I just watched this to the end and saw the cause of the failure. Ironically I found my rectifier wires were both bare. The routing looked good, but I can only assume the were too close to the engine or mounts. My bike is an FLTRI that someone converted to an FLHI and they did a phenomenal job. If this was a second rectifier I'd be shocked. Either way, your video is hands down the BEST one I have seen on this. Very detailed without extra fluff.
@@butlercustoms thank you. I have a 99 RK classic. Ran codes do1clr all the way to 10 and CAL 03. Going to check my volts with a multi meter. It runs strong when i get it going but cold idle wants to shut off and at times when i first take off will shut off
@@butlercustoms when it says CLR after the codes is that something to worry about? I believe the CAL 03 is rectifier or stator. Also removing the bolts on the stator didn’t use a 3/8 impact?
@@RettitT The CLR that displays after the codes means “Clear” if you hold down the button when it displays CLR it will clear that code off. CAL 03 is the calibration code of the speedometer. And never use impacts on internal motor parts due to the possibility of stripping threads or snapping bolts inside the case. Hope this helps! And thanks for reaching out!
Gooday mate.
I very much enjoyed watching your Video you have thought me a lot keep up the good work.
Shaun
Australia
Thank you for watching and for your kind words!
Sir this is the best through video explaining the entire process. You’re a very good instructor/mechanic. Wish you were close to me! Keep up the good work. Enjoyed it!
Wow. Thank you for that kind complement! And thanks for watching!
I am Erik from the Netherlands, few weeks ago my ultraclassic 2003 broke down on our way back home from a trip to superrally in Tsjechië rep., ended up to be a toasted stator. I did make an extra sleeve around the double cables out off the primary for protction, the cables are indeed way to long. I can make miles again with my new stator and rectifier. Nice helpful video...peace on you
Glad I could help. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Excellent video. Love your attention to detail,which is lacking in most mechanics now a days!
@@whizkeyman2022 I really appreciate that. Thanks.
Thank you for the great video. I have a 2001 road king I just replaced my stator and voltage regulator. I went back with the oem style stator. I had already ordered it before I seen your video, or I would have went with that upgraded version. Good as new now . Thanks so much I was able to follow along and get it back on the road. Let the good times roll!
That’s great! Glad I could help! Here’s to a safe riding season!
This is a really great informative video. Love the commentary...😂
Thanks for watching and commenting with those kind words!
Another very informative tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to share and appreciate the heads up on the new Magnetic Rotor upgrade 👍
Thank you for your kind words and for watching!
What are the other wires on the "yellow" side of the the circuit breaker? Thanks.
I can’t remember off hand. The mechanical circuit breaker is for the rectifier in case of overload. So I would assume it runs back to battery.
@@butlercustoms thanks
My pleasure. It should be in the wiring diagram and show it better.
Great video, quick couple of questions... does the 2000 police edition run this same setup and can i get parts info if so?
Yes. All the same except for the bag lids, siren/lights accessory, and clutch safety switch.
Great jobb, glad I found this!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Excellent. Thanks. That primary chain looks tight?
It was not as tight as the video made it out to look. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Any chance you can suggest whether I can use nacelle top trim pieces 67868-03 & 67868-94 interchangeably ?
The 67868-03 fits years 1994 to 2013. And the 67868-94 fits years 1994 to 2002. Not sure what the difference is because they look the same to me. Hope this helps.
@@butlercustoms thank you
@@oleksasirotinin1532 my pleasure.
Just curious, do you prefer manual or automatic chain tensioner in the primary?
Personally I’ve never had an issue with automatic tensioners on stock parts. If the bike has performance parts then I would recommend manual. Great question. Thanks.
Great video, where did you get the stator and rectifier, going to do this to my 99 RK
The customer ordered them. I believe from Drag Specialties. If I was going to purchase a replacement I would go with Cycle Electrics. They are made a little better than the OEM
I'm circling back on this. All the parts came in on Thursday (Cycle Electric R/R and stator, new sealed rotor), so I decided to tackle the project. I have nothing to add to the steps here. I'm very mechanical, but the hardest part of all of this is running the R/R wires and getting enough stink on the torque wrench without a cheater. For anyone who needs to do this, stop your search with this video. Start to finish, with plenty of interruptions, took me 2 hours. I will add, buy your parts from Cycle Electric. Do NOT get cheap. If your regulator fails, it could kill your stator, and you'll be out more time and money.
Glad I was able to help and I’m happy you got your bike fixed! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You could probably add a length of heat shrink as a lume on that stator wire. Just for extra protection.
Great idea. Never hurts to be protected. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great informative video
Thank you!
Awesome video man. I have to do this this weekend on my 01 RK. Can you tell me where you got the rotor? I bought a R/R and Stator from Cycle city, but I'm not seeing the rotor.
Also, what size is the comp nut and clutch nut?
Thanks for watching. I believe the comp nut is 1 1/2 and the clutch basket nut is 1 3/16. And don’t forget that the clutch basket nut is reverse thread. And I believe I got the upgraded rotor from JP Cycles.
@@butlercustoms Ended up getting the stator on eBaY. I just watched this to the end and saw the cause of the failure. Ironically I found my rectifier wires were both bare. The routing looked good, but I can only assume the were too close to the engine or mounts. My bike is an FLTRI that someone converted to an FLHI and they did a phenomenal job. If this was a second rectifier I'd be shocked.
Either way, your video is hands down the BEST one I have seen on this. Very detailed without extra fluff.
@@shawzall404 that’s great you found the issue! Glad I could help. And thank you for your kind words and for watching!
Great video! Any one know what size that compensator nut is??? My biggest socket is a 36mm too small 😮
I believe it’s a 1 1/2 inch socket if I’m not mistaken. And thank you for your kind words.
Awesome thanks 😊
@MrDndguy my pleasure
Can I get the part numbers?
They were aftermarket. Cycle Electric I believe.
What kind of air filter cover is that?
I believe it’s a Kuryakyn Hypercharger Air Filter. About $140
@@butlercustoms thank you. I have a 99 RK classic. Ran codes do1clr all the way to 10 and CAL 03. Going to check my volts with a multi meter. It runs strong when i get it going but cold idle wants to shut off and at times when i first take off will shut off
@RettitT sounds like you’re sniffing in the right areas.
@@butlercustoms when it says CLR after the codes is that something to worry about? I believe the CAL 03 is rectifier or stator. Also removing the bolts on the stator didn’t use a 3/8 impact?
@@RettitT The CLR that displays after the codes means “Clear” if you hold down the button when it displays CLR it will clear that code off. CAL 03 is the calibration code of the speedometer. And never use impacts on internal motor parts due to the possibility of stripping threads or snapping bolts inside the case. Hope this helps! And thanks for reaching out!
I have a twinky not charging lets do this
That’s awesome!
👍😎👍
Thanks ..
My pleasure
👍
All this new garbage is just something to go wrong . Keep it below the Computerized trast . Im a Dummy when it comes to computerize things .
That’s why I love my panhead. Simple and reliable.
Lol bloody spell check.
Same here. Ha