Excellent production! Clear video and audio, paced at just the right speed. Very good attention to detail. (Thanks for the note about the flat spot on the side pins. I would have driven myself crazy figuring it out.) Thanks for putting together such a great video. I wish all automotive videos were this good. I am subscribing right now!
One of the better brake job videos that I have seen. This job went pretty smoothly, but there were still a couple of good tips with respect to cleaning and lubricating while assembling. Nicely done!
Great tutorial!!! Best visual aids and excellent explanation. Every weekend warrior should watch this video. I’ve been researching replacing wheel bearing assemblies and brake rotor/pads replacement and this is by far the best video.
If you brush a little bit of antiseize on the hub and in the hat of the new rotor, it keeps it from seizing should you need to remove rotor or wheel. Avoid getting antiseize on lugnut threads. Don't want those lugs coming off
When you press pistons back in, always open bleeder screw , so not to press old fluid back up in abs actuator and system,, Before doing so but small drain pan under caliper to catch fluid.
If you live in the rust belt you need to look under your stainless brake hardware for excessive rust on the steel bracket. The brake pads won’t slide properly if you don’t file off the rust on the bracket.
Do i need to pump the brakes when im done with one side and then do it again on the second brakes or can I do it when I'm done with all of them? Because I did one side now is too hard to do the second one.
Do you have to bleed the brakes afterwards? I have heard you only bleed the brakes if replacing the brake lines or calipers and I've heard yes even for brake pads and rotors.
+Myles Moroz Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/brake-kit-nakamoto-cd1169a%2c-25853001/i/1abfs01878?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&CaSa5lCyI8
5:12 new brake pads SHOULD come with new stainless steel brake caliper hardware. ( 2 for each caliper. ) 6:51 Some caliper manufacturers COAT the rotor with COSMOLINE ( a type of waxy grease ) to keep them from rusting while being stored for long periods of time in a warehouse. You MUST COMPLETELY remove ALL of the cosmoline from, not only BOTH sides of the rotor, but from EVERY SURFACE OF THE ENTIRE ROTOR. The manufacturer DIPS the rotor in cosmoline so...it gets EVERYWHERE...in between the vanes of the rotor, on all flat surfaces of the rotor... it's just EVERYWHERE. You HAVE to remove ALL of it OTHERWISE it will melt from the heat of brake friction and run everywhere like water - saturating your new brake pads - which will render them useless. Remove all of the cosmoline by using spray can brake cleaner, a rag to wipe up the larger amounts of cosmoline and a compressed air nozzle to blow it out of the rotor vanes. Clean it ALL out. ALL OF IT. Did I say clean it all out ? Yeah, I believe I did.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
😮😮😮typically only 😮r😮5😊t
Excellent production! Clear video and audio, paced at just the right speed. Very good attention to detail. (Thanks for the note about the flat spot on the side pins. I would have driven myself crazy figuring it out.) Thanks for putting together such a great video. I wish all automotive videos were this good. I am subscribing right now!
Agreed on the side pin point......first video I’ve seen that points it out...
About the best brake video I have seen. Technical enough yet simple to understand.
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Andris Niedra
Great video. I'm a huge fan of your tutorials . I also order all my parts from 1A Auto and have had no problems whatsoever. Thanks.
One of the better brake job videos that I have seen. This job went pretty smoothly, but there were still a couple of good tips with respect to cleaning and lubricating while assembling. Nicely done!
Great tutorial!!!
Best visual aids and excellent explanation. Every weekend warrior should watch this video. I’ve been researching replacing wheel bearing assemblies and brake rotor/pads replacement and this is by far the best video.
I'm waiting for my rotors to arrive and then I'm going to attempt my first brake job. This is going to be an extreme help
Was easy to follow when you got all the right tools. Thank you for the video.
+Abel Gonzales Thank you for your positive feedback! We are happy we could help.
Terrific video. Just what I needed to get the job done right. Well done 1A!
Great Video ! Thank you for taking the time to teach others.
4:02 was money! Thank you. I had this exact issue and it was solved immediately. 👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽
+RealFaithLife Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
For years I kick the tires off or hit with deadblow and wheel attacks me, put the lugs on a few twists, great tip! Thank you!
+Lincoln Microphone LLC Thanks for checking us out! Glad we could help. 1aauto.com
Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful and I come back to you because I know that I can trust you. 😊
If you brush a little bit of antiseize on the hub and in the hat of the new rotor, it keeps it from seizing should you need to remove rotor or wheel. Avoid getting antiseize on lugnut threads. Don't want those lugs coming off
When you press pistons back in, always open bleeder screw , so not to press old fluid back up in abs actuator and system,, Before doing so but small drain pan under caliper to catch fluid.
Absolutely, most of the yucky stuff settles in to the calipers.
If you live in the rust belt you need to look under your stainless brake hardware for excessive rust on the steel bracket. The brake pads won’t slide properly if you don’t file off the rust on the bracket.
Do i need to pump the brakes when im done with one side and then do it again on the second brakes or can I do it when I'm done with all of them? Because I did one side now is too hard to do the second one.
Torque Specs:
Wheel Fastener/Lug Nuts 140 pound feet
Bracet to Knuckle 129
Caliper to Bracket 47
Good job. That was simple
+Kelly Butler Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for the detailed information
Do you have to bleed the brakes afterwards? I have heard you only bleed the brakes if replacing the brake lines or calipers and I've heard yes even for brake pads and rotors.
Hello changing the brakes
is that same that the same way on 2014 traverse
+Kelly Butler Yes, the 2009-2017 Chevrolet Traverse will all have the same brakes and application.
Do we have to purge the brakes after replacing them
Very informative, I replaced my rotors and pads yesterday
+Myles Moroz Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/brake-kit-nakamoto-cd1169a%2c-25853001/i/1abfs01878?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&CaSa5lCyI8
Great video. Easy to follow when you got all the right tools. Thank you for the video.
+Abel Gonzales Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Would it be only 64.5 foot pounds for a two inch torque bar?
Will it damage the caliper if you only compressed one piston at a time? That’s what I did and I think It’s bad!
Anybody have the torque specs for the brake bracket and caliper for a 2017 traverse?
It was on the video
Are the back brakes installed the same way?
+@robertdeanda1961 We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video. Ty.
5:12 new brake pads SHOULD come with new stainless steel brake caliper hardware. ( 2 for each caliper. )
6:51 Some caliper manufacturers COAT the rotor with COSMOLINE ( a type of waxy grease ) to keep them from rusting while being stored for long periods of time in a warehouse. You MUST COMPLETELY remove ALL of the cosmoline from, not only BOTH sides of the rotor, but from EVERY SURFACE OF THE ENTIRE ROTOR. The manufacturer DIPS the rotor in cosmoline so...it gets EVERYWHERE...in between the vanes of the rotor, on all flat surfaces of the rotor... it's just EVERYWHERE. You HAVE to remove ALL of it OTHERWISE it will melt from the heat of brake friction and run everywhere like water - saturating your new brake pads - which will render them useless. Remove all of the cosmoline by using spray can brake cleaner, a rag to wipe up the larger amounts of cosmoline and a compressed air nozzle to blow it out of the rotor vanes. Clean it ALL out. ALL OF IT. Did I say clean it all out ? Yeah, I believe I did.
thank you
My advice is to remove the screw that holds the rotor to the hub BEFORE you remove the part that holds the brake pads.
forgot 21mm socket in tool list.
You just saved me a 2nd trip, thanks!
129 ft lbs made my bolt snap. :|
T30 bit just sheared
Get impact rated one.