Great video. Here are the torque specs if anyone wants them. Front Caliper Bracket Mount 79.6 lbf-ft. Front Caliper (Body) Bolts 35 lbf-ft. Bleed Screw 6.5 lbf-ft. Banjo Bolt 25 lbf-ft
For those needing the torque settings: These specifications come from an actual 2011 Acura TSX Service Manual. Caliper Mounting bracket bolts: 80 lbf*ft or 108 N*m Caliper Body mount bolts: 37lbf*ft or 50 N*m
Terrific video. Just purchased my very first Honda, '10 TSX base. I've already changed the engine oil, transmission oil, spark plugs and air filters. This is the only job I need to do. Will be using this as a guide thanks man. Well other than the Brake bleed and transmission oil filter.
Hi Michael - thank you for this video, very well made and concise. It is going to come in handy for me next weekend! One small thing I noticed though. At 4:50 you mentioned that the back tires still have tread while the front tires are worn down because someone wasn't properly rotating the tires. I had a hard time believing this myself, but recent studies have shown that you will have better traction by placing the 2 tires with the most tread life left on the rear axle, even on a FWD car! This is because having more traction in the back of the car prevents fishtailing and loss of control of the back end of the car. It sounds totally counterintuitive and I thought a mechanic was trying to pull a fast one on me, but they provided me with some videos to watch and I was shocked that what they were telling me was totally factual.
Great job on this video! I am going to give this a try this afternoon but you did a great job walking through the process. I will let you know how it goes.
+Guns&Grub Brake job was completed and it was great. Of course, my 2010 TSX was exactly like yours and I completed the job in about 90 minutes start to finish. Thanks for your video.
Great video with accurately described steps. Replaced pads and rotors on my 2011 TL following these steps. The only thing I would suggest is that you secure the caliper with a bungee cord. During install I ran into problems with my rotor being rusted to the hub had to pound it with a hammer and that didn't even do the trick. Ended up putting bolts through the caliper mounting bracket to act as a jack pushing the rotor off. Being in New England I'm sure the weather and road salts used up here really rusted the rotors.
Thanks for the awesome video upload, Michael! This was super helpful, for sure. I’m in the process of re-doing front and rear brakes on my 2013 TSX and even though it’s not a tough job, it is not free of frustration. The 17mm bolts on the back of the calipers are for lack of a better word, a major bitch to get off. Going to try and obtain a breaker bar to bust them free this afternoon. Thanks!
Take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir before pushing back the pistons. Check fluid level after pushing back each piston. And it's a good idea to bleed the brakes after pushing the pistons back into the calipers. Clean the face of the hub to remove any rust or crud. Once clean, apply some rust inhibitor (Fluid Film, high temp grease, anti seize compound). Next time you have to remove the rotor it will be less likely to have seized onto the hub. After removing the hardware from the caliper bracket, thoroughly clean all the surface where the hardware sits. Then apply some high temperature grease to the surface points where the hardware touches. This will prevent rust buildup under the hardware; if rust builds up there it will push out on the hardware and they put pressure on the pads and cause then to bind. You don't need to apply grease to the hardware where the pad tabs slide in. They pads should slide freely on the hardware without lubrication, and lube can collect crud. Instead of applying grease to the back of the pads, apply grease to the face of the caliper piston and the ears of the caliper as you only need to apply grease to the areas that make contact. When finished, then again clean the rotors with brake clean. Oh, and that glaze is likely from the pads. It's possible to scuff it off of the old rotors with some emery cloth or light sandpaper.
I'm not very hands on so I don't know if I have the courage to do this myself, but your video is awesome and surely does make it seem very easy. I might give it a shot. But either way, thanks for posting this!
excellent video! very informative.. I really wish I had the tools to do it myself.. but this gives a clear idea as to how much time and effort it requires to do the job... Thx
Great video, those rotors sound like they are good for spirited driving. They look good to, I will give them a try. The only thing I would have done differently was painted those calipers.
I am surprised that you didn't take those caliper clips out and cleaned them. Many times they are the reason for break noise. But nicely done. Thank you for sharing.
I did, I went high speed through that. Cleaned and greased. I didn't want the video to be too long. I must have cut out the part where I talk about it, my bad.
+Michael Borquez First off, I've never done anything with a car other than replacing a battery and changing a few flats but with this awesome video I was able to change both front rotors and pads and it seems to be working great, thanks... Having said that I just saw this comment and was wondering what the caliper clips are and if maybe I screwed up and missed something. Also I really wasn't sure if my rotors needed replacing, there is a shaking noise (actually was) but a few months ago a mechanic told me I could resurface them but it didnt really need to be it was just an annoyance, I replaced them anyway though, but was wondering how you know when they need to be, My rear pads are low and I was about to do them next week but I'm not sure if I should worry about the rotors on the back.
One note on the rotor screws. They serve no other purpose except to keep the rotor from falling off during assembly. What you stated is untrue, the tire will keep the rotor in place. It is best to leave the sdcrews off or get new ones and put antiseize on them .
Those screws serve no purpose when you get them out you do not have to replace them. Most of the time if they won't budge or get mutilated you can simply drill them out the wheel and the caliper bracket will hold the roter in place
Just completed my 2010 TSX based on your great video. Thanks. By the way the pads in your video that you replaced looked pretty thick. You said they were shiny but didn't explain why this happens. My were pretty thinned out.
Typically they get shiny when the rotor overheats due to over use of dragging. A lot of people forget to fully disengage the parking brake which can really damage the rotors. Thanks for watching. I’m hoping to get more videos up soon, it’s just been tough with work lately.
@@Sunshone7311 Having done the job there are 2 things that I would add to make the job easier. First turn the wheels facing outside to have access to the calibers. Second as a very important tip saver that I learned from another video is that you don't need to remove all 4 caliber bolts. Just take the bottom ones off and tilt the caliber upwards exposing the pads. There is a hose bracket that has to be loosened but it real easy. It was a piece of cake job !
awesome video mate! I have an 09 tsx and have warped front rotors, I am wanting to change them myself and am wondering if the procedures would all be the same for the 10 and 09 tsx?
Thx for the video. I'm looking at doing my front brakes to on my tsx. Could you please provide comments as to checking for rotor run out? Is it necessary?
The general rule of thumb is that if you feel vibration in your steering wheel when braking then there is too much deflection in your rotors. You can have them cut or just replace them. The cost to replace with higher quality rotors (with a warranty) is low enough that it is not worth the hassle of having them cut anymore. Besides that, it is hard to find a shop that will do a good job cutting them nowadays. You should always replace or have your front rotors turned when servicing your front brakes. Another tip too not go through car washes that automatically sprays tire gloss on your tires. I've been finding that there is a tendency for that gloss to get on the rotors and it has been the cause of a lot of ruined rotors due too glazing.
question for you ... i just did my brakes on my 04 tsx .. everything went fine although i did not clean and greese the slides ... so i put everything together and when i go and test drive it there is a thump noise when i brake .. like 4 thumps from the moment i start to break to the moment i come to a complete stop .. i reopened it up and i did not see anything wrong ... im thinking it may be the caliper but it wasnt doing this prior to me changing the brakes .. oh and the passenger brakes did finish alot more than the driver side brakes which are the ones that are thumping ... i did bleed my breaks just to make sure that everything was ok and my back brakes were not working at all ... a ton of air and rusty brake fluid came out of one side .. which is not good ... i bleed them and ive been driving like this and the thumping seems to have gone down a little but i can still hear it and feel it on the steering wheel when i brake .. it does seem to go away alot after driving for a while
+iinthecutt brush Did you clean the rotors? If any grease gets on them it can cause the brakes slip and grab, sort of like a thud. Spray everything down really well with brake cleaner and see if that helps. Also make sure you tightened the bolts holding the caliper assembly, the bolts that allow access to the rotors.
Hi thanks for this nice vdo. my rotor is stuck, i took out both screws but the rotor wouldn't come off .. what should I do? (2006 tsx, but looks and assembly exactly the same as this)
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Do you typically flush the brake fluid when you do a brake job? Do you happen to have a video on that for the Acura TSX?
Do you have to grease the new brake pads before putting it on? I watched your video as a refresher to changing my own brakes since it's been a couple of years since I changed them (with the guidance of a knowledgeable friend) and I do not recall greasing the pads.
+Trang Lickliter You don't have to grease the backs, but you should grease the ends that will have friction. I grease the backs because it helps with squealing.
It is a lot easier if you take off both calipers, that way when you force the one open to get it to fit on the new pads, all the pressure will go to the other side.
I stripped the screw to the rotor….. the screw head is total jacked up. how can i get it removed? Im stressed out over not being able to change out my rotor.
+Michael Borquez Awesome! I have a 2010 acura tsx 4 cylinder that I need to do the rear brakes on next week. Can you recommend a good place online to get reliable parts?
there's nothing like finding a WELL made video of the exact job you need to do on your exact same car and year model. Thanks!
Exactly my thoughts
My thoughts as well.
Exactly. This video is on point!
Thank you sir , helped me out with my car 9 years later
Great video. Here are the torque specs if anyone wants them. Front Caliper Bracket Mount 79.6 lbf-ft. Front Caliper (Body) Bolts 35 lbf-ft. Bleed Screw 6.5 lbf-ft. Banjo Bolt 25 lbf-ft
Miguel Chavez where do you get all these torque for the whole car ?
For those needing the torque settings: These specifications come from an actual 2011 Acura TSX Service Manual.
Caliper Mounting bracket bolts: 80 lbf*ft or 108 N*m
Caliper Body mount bolts: 37lbf*ft or 50 N*m
Thanks a whole bunch
Thank you. This info is so hard to find
Great video! I have a 2011 TSX. This is how I wish all UA-cam car videos were.
Thanks for posting the video. It helped me repair my TSX. People can move to minute 6 to get to the real meat of the job however
Terrific video. Just purchased my very first Honda, '10 TSX base. I've already changed the engine oil, transmission oil, spark plugs and air filters. This is the only job I need to do. Will be using this as a guide thanks man. Well other than the Brake bleed and transmission oil filter.
Great video with a lot of detail. Thank you for taking the time to create it.
Hi Michael - thank you for this video, very well made and concise. It is going to come in handy for me next weekend!
One small thing I noticed though. At 4:50 you mentioned that the back tires still have tread while the front tires are worn down because someone wasn't properly rotating the tires. I had a hard time believing this myself, but recent studies have shown that you will have better traction by placing the 2 tires with the most tread life left on the rear axle, even on a FWD car! This is because having more traction in the back of the car prevents fishtailing and loss of control of the back end of the car. It sounds totally counterintuitive and I thought a mechanic was trying to pull a fast one on me, but they provided me with some videos to watch and I was shocked that what they were telling me was totally factual.
Great visual explanation straight to the point
Great job on this video! I am going to give this a try this afternoon but you did a great job walking through the process. I will let you know how it goes.
+Guns&Grub Brake job was completed and it was great. Of course, my 2010 TSX was exactly like yours and I completed the job in about 90 minutes start to finish. Thanks for your video.
Great video with accurately described steps. Replaced pads and rotors on my 2011 TL following these steps. The only thing I would suggest is that you secure the caliper with a bungee cord. During install I ran into problems with my rotor being rusted to the hub had to pound it with a hammer and that didn't even do the trick. Ended up putting bolts through the caliper mounting bracket to act as a jack pushing the rotor off. Being in New England I'm sure the weather and road salts used up here really rusted the rotors.
Thanks for the awesome video upload, Michael! This was super helpful, for sure. I’m in the process of re-doing front and rear brakes on my 2013 TSX and even though it’s not a tough job, it is not free of frustration. The 17mm bolts on the back of the calipers are for lack of a better word, a major bitch to get off. Going to try and obtain a breaker bar to bust them free this afternoon. Thanks!
Take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir before pushing back the pistons. Check fluid level after pushing back each piston. And it's a good idea to bleed the brakes after pushing the pistons back into the calipers.
Clean the face of the hub to remove any rust or crud. Once clean, apply some rust inhibitor (Fluid Film, high temp grease, anti seize compound). Next time you have to remove the rotor it will be less likely to have seized onto the hub.
After removing the hardware from the caliper bracket, thoroughly clean all the surface where the hardware sits. Then apply some high temperature grease to the surface points where the hardware touches. This will prevent rust buildup under the hardware; if rust builds up there it will push out on the hardware and they put pressure on the pads and cause then to bind.
You don't need to apply grease to the hardware where the pad tabs slide in. They pads should slide freely on the hardware without lubrication, and lube can collect crud.
Instead of applying grease to the back of the pads, apply grease to the face of the caliper piston and the ears of the caliper as you only need to apply grease to the areas that make contact.
When finished, then again clean the rotors with brake clean.
Oh, and that glaze is likely from the pads. It's possible to scuff it off of the old rotors with some emery cloth or light sandpaper.
I'm not very hands on so I don't know if I have the courage to do this myself, but your video is awesome and surely does make it seem very easy. I might give it a shot. But either way, thanks for posting this!
Just the video I needed! Thank you so much for posting it!
Nice video, I appreciate your time and effort.
Thanks for the video! Great walk-through.
excellent video! very informative.. I really wish I had the tools to do it myself.. but this gives a clear idea as to how much time and effort it requires to do the job... Thx
Great video, those rotors sound like they are good for spirited driving. They look good to, I will give them a try. The only thing I would have done differently was painted those calipers.
I am surprised that you didn't take those caliper clips out and cleaned them. Many times they are the reason for break noise. But nicely done. Thank you for sharing.
I did, I went high speed through that. Cleaned and greased. I didn't want the video to be too long. I must have cut out the part where I talk about it, my bad.
+Michael Borquez First off, I've never done anything with a car other than replacing a battery and changing a few flats but with this awesome video I was able to change both front rotors and pads and it seems to be working great, thanks...
Having said that I just saw this comment and was wondering what the caliper clips are and if maybe I screwed up and missed something. Also I really wasn't sure if my rotors needed replacing, there is a shaking noise (actually was) but a few months ago a mechanic told me I could resurface them but it didnt really need to be it was just an annoyance, I replaced them anyway though, but was wondering how you know when they need to be, My rear pads are low and I was about to do them next week but I'm not sure if I should worry about the rotors on the back.
One note on the rotor screws. They serve no other purpose except to keep the rotor from falling off during assembly. What you stated is untrue, the tire will keep the rotor in place. It is best to leave the sdcrews off or get new ones and put antiseize on them .
Correction during assembly at the factory
I had to drill those screws out the first time I did my brakes because they would not budge, even with an impact screwdriver.
Those screws serve no purpose when you get them out you do not have to replace them. Most of the time if they won't budge or get mutilated you can simply drill them out the wheel and the caliper bracket will hold the roter in place
excellent video mate!
Just completed my 2010 TSX based on your great video. Thanks. By the way the pads in your video that you replaced looked pretty thick. You said they were shiny but didn't explain why this happens. My were pretty thinned out.
Typically they get shiny when the rotor overheats due to over use of dragging. A lot of people forget to fully disengage the parking brake which can really damage the rotors. Thanks for watching. I’m hoping to get more videos up soon, it’s just been tough with work lately.
@@Sunshone7311 Having done the job there are 2 things that I would add to make the job easier. First turn the wheels facing outside to have access to the calibers. Second as a very important tip saver that I learned from another video is that you don't need to remove all 4 caliber bolts. Just take the bottom ones off and tilt the caliber upwards exposing the pads. There is a hose bracket that has to be loosened but it real easy. It was a piece of cake job !
awesome video mate! I have an 09 tsx and have warped front rotors, I am wanting to change them myself and am wondering if the procedures would all be the same for the 10 and 09 tsx?
You helped me so much! Thanks
can you do the back breaks ? on the same model
+Josue Quintanilla ua-cam.com/video/3mb-E5YsGdg/v-deo.html
Thank you Michael!
Did you remove the cap of brake fluid under the hood and also when did you pump the brakes? After each side or only at the end?
Would you recommend (or not) using PB Blaster on those bolts first?
Rod Salcido Only if looks like they need it.
@@Sunshone7311 okay thanks!
Hi , may i know how much is the brakes and rotors cost to complete the job
What’s the lever called to get the car up? What’s the thing that holds the car up that looks like a pyramid?
Thank you good video!
Thx for the video. I'm looking at doing my front brakes to on my tsx. Could you please provide comments as to checking for rotor run out? Is it necessary?
The general rule of thumb is that if you feel vibration in your steering wheel when braking then there is too much deflection in your rotors. You can have them cut or just replace them. The cost to replace with higher quality rotors (with a warranty) is low enough that it is not worth the hassle of having them cut anymore. Besides that, it is hard to find a shop that will do a good job cutting them nowadays. You should always replace or have your front rotors turned when servicing your front brakes. Another tip too not go through car washes that automatically sprays tire gloss on your tires. I've been finding that there is a tendency for that gloss to get on the rotors and it has been the cause of a lot of ruined rotors due too glazing.
question for you ... i just did my brakes on my 04 tsx .. everything went fine although i did not clean and greese the slides ... so i put everything together and when i go and test drive it there is a thump noise when i brake .. like 4 thumps from the moment i start to break to the moment i come to a complete stop .. i reopened it up and i did not see anything wrong ... im thinking it may be the caliper but it wasnt doing this prior to me changing the brakes .. oh and the passenger brakes did finish alot more than the driver side brakes which are the ones that are thumping ... i did bleed my breaks just to make sure that everything was ok and my back brakes were not working at all ... a ton of air and rusty brake fluid came out of one side .. which is not good ... i bleed them and ive been driving like this and the thumping seems to have gone down a little but i can still hear it and feel it on the steering wheel when i brake .. it does seem to go away alot after driving for a while
+iinthecutt brush Did you clean the rotors? If any grease gets on them it can cause the brakes slip and grab, sort of like a thud. Spray everything down really well with brake cleaner and see if that helps. Also make sure you tightened the bolts holding the caliper assembly, the bolts that allow access to the rotors.
If i strip the bolt that hold the rotor in place what should I do?
To loosen calipers is it up on both sides
Great video. Thanks
Hi thanks for this nice vdo. my rotor is stuck, i took out both screws but the rotor wouldn't come off .. what should I do? (2006 tsx, but looks and assembly exactly the same as this)
Mohammed Rahman use a rubber mallet and tap the back of the rotor while rotating the rotor, it should break loose.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Do you typically flush the brake fluid when you do a brake job? Do you happen to have a video on that for the Acura TSX?
Do you have to grease the new brake pads before putting it on? I watched your video as a refresher to changing my own brakes since it's been a couple of years since I changed them (with the guidance of a knowledgeable friend) and I do not recall greasing the pads.
+Trang Lickliter You don't have to grease the backs, but you should grease the ends that will have friction. I grease the backs because it helps with squealing.
thanks Mike!
If you turn the wheel, everything works in your favor
Nice video
When pushing the piston back did you have to remove the cap from the break fluid reservoir?
Yes make sure you do that
It is a lot easier if you take off both calipers, that way when you force the one open to get it to fit on the new pads, all the pressure will go to the other side.
You do not want to do that, you can blow out one of your calipers.
what spray did you use to clean off the rotary and calipers?
+Nik Chorn Plain old CRC brake cleaner.
i had the hand break on so the caliper wouldn't release. thanks for the help
does my 2005 tsx have the same "floating brake" assembly? So If I follow the video it will be the same?
+David Karren Yes
I stripped the screw to the rotor….. the screw head is total jacked up. how can i get it removed? Im stressed out over not being able to change out my rotor.
@@redesignedlife777 you can buy a screw extractor or drill it out.
@@redesignedlife777 It’s not a big deal, there should be videos on UA-cam on how to if needed.
What website is recommended to purchase the rotors and brakes from?
Tryna find out too
Thanks so much for this video! What brand of rotors did you use in this video?
Auto Zone - Duralast Gold
thanks!
What did you spray the rotors with at the end of the video?
Brake Cleaner to get any loose grease.
What grease do you use?
I use regular old synthetic grease
What’s the name of your impact wrench?
Ridgid 1/2" 18v Impact
Nice thanks bro
Nice video man 👍🔥
where did you get the rotors from.
Auto Zone
Is the process the same on the rear? thanks in advance :)
+89gtconvertible No, much different. I'm hoping to have a video up on the rear brakes by tomorrow 11/01.
+Michael Borquez Awesome! I have a 2010 acura tsx 4 cylinder that I need to do the rear brakes on next week. Can you recommend a good place online to get reliable parts?
+JesseJulina DeMooy Rock auto if you want aftermarket. There are lots of oem Honda parts stores online, haven't used them though.
+Michael Borquez Did you end up getting the rear brakes done?
+JesseJulina DeMooy I have the video finished, I'm just having issues uploading it. I hope to have it soon.
Got to the part where i gotta break the bolt loose on the rotors, couldnt get it to turn even with impact driver. I gave up after 4th try.
1phone1gamer try Pena testing oil and leave it overnight.
Penetrating oil, jeez auto correct
I had the same issue as you but use PB Blaster. Walmart approx. $3. Worked like a charm only had it on for 30 seconds and it worked!