Looks fantastic like all your work! Keeping your upper newell corner posts (which terminate flat-stair) close to the edge of the loft,will help tremendously on stair railings. If the newels are too far back from the edge,the top stair rail will connect at a higher level then the flat will. Code calls for 34 inches to top of top rail ,plumbed up from front tip of tread . Often you see an upper newel (turned corner post), and another post which gets the the stair rail connection. Typically the posts were mounted inboard too far,which requires a second post. The GRK's were definitely the right call!
You put more effort and care into those spindles than 99% of finish carpenters on new homes put into their items. AMAZING work. It isn't perfect, but it is better than most things I see in a freaking house, and some of those houses I've looked through were 7 figure homes...and they don't have finish touches as good as yours.
Plug your pocket holes. Kreg even makes plugs for that. It'll make the holes less noticable even if the grain of the plug isn't close to matching the rail. The exposed holes are going to look black from the lower floor. Also pound your finished lumber in place with a dead blow or rubber mallet and a folded up towel. The 'sharp' cut edge of the block can sometimes mess up your finish or even in some cases leave small dents in the finish product. I even yelled 'NO!!' at my phone right before you did that Haha. I look forward to your videos every week. Always like seeing how other carpenters do things. Never stop learning tricks for the arsenal.
How beautiful the house and how good that they left the panels of the walls with natural wood, it looks really beautiful and the very nice railings, it is appreciated that you can share your work, thanks cordial greetings from San Felipe Chile
Quality over quantity any day is best! And you sir make the quality matter! Awesome work and very good suggestions in your video! I like how you said while making your jig for the rail poles to use a straight edge instead of your speed square for your center line!
Kyle Kreg makes a plug cutter for the pocket hole; so that you use the same wood to make your plugs. Question the are spacing less then 4" between the baluster. Keep up the good work.
It is a very good book for beginners as well as for those that are already into ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt A very good basic ebook to keep as a reference too. I like it and the way the subject matter is presented. It has humor and that helps with the reading.
What’s up Kyle I’m new to the Channel and I’m glad I found it, I’m actually currently Serving in the Air Force Reserves but I am really focusing on getting my GC License! I’ve already taken so much valuable information from your channel! Thanks for the Videos Brother. Please keep them coming! 💪🏻
Awesome! Way easier system than I did a couple years ago. They were black aluminum but didn't sit on pedestals,set in a drilled hole. Had about 300 lin feet to do 😑
I would have had to use a drill press or make sure the template's mating surface was the side I marked. I find that when drilling any reasonable thickness I drift as I go through the material.
Actually if you watch the history & story the Kreg screws are met to be structural for that ! However there R specific connectors for what your doing your aware of them. But that GRK is faster and easier no routing! Perfectly fine!, great job and good thinking!
i do these railings all the time .i find that i needed to put a filler block mid span under the lower rail.i had kids stand on them and the spindles almost came lose.
You are right about "being wrong" If there is such a thing as reincarnation, I want to come back as either an economist or weatherman. I can't think of 2 occupations where you can be so wrong so often and still remain gainfully employed. And they don't seem to learn form their mistakes. I will go for economist. The lead weatherman always do the 11:00pm news casts. 😂
Dude i bet ive put together 500 of those hanrail sections. Its nice to have someone lower down one end while you eaze the picket in. Dont push the post out of plumb
What did you think of those balusters? I’ve used them on deck railings, and some of them seemed to be a little longer or shorter then others (maybe 1/32 to as much as 1/8). Also, the stair railing holder bracket things, are at a preset angle, so depending what your custom built stair angle is (depending on the rise and run), this brackets could have some gap between the bracket and the pole… it wasn’t horrible, but I did notice it.
I installed that system on my deck. What a pain in the a$$ it was getting all the spindles on those plastic balls lined up. The stairs I had to cut on a parallel angle and that was even harder
@RRbuilding where are you sourcing those endcaps for the balusters? I'm doing a horizontal baluster rail setup on a customer's job and have been looking for just such things.
Kyle, maybe too late this time, but when you are done using the template to set those little caps, you can open the holes into slots to help align the spindles rather than fiddling them into the top rail one at a time.
If you did each top tail individually rather than putting them all on at once, you could’ve done a 10” lag in the one end of each post like you did the first one for added strength
Just a thought but you could have drilled a 3/4 inch hole all the way through each post and used a wood or pipe Dowling rod though and sticking out about two to three inches out. Then drill each rail to receive the dowl. Then you could hold the outward force a little better. Just an idea
Yesterday we were installing built ins and mantle. And its amazing we still unload just about every tool off the trailers just to put in 8 cabinets and a mantle
I'm a huge fan and its been great seeing you do all of this finish work to the quality that you are known for. With that said, and all due respect, those railings just don't seem safe to me. They look great, but the spindles actually flex when Kyle just grabbed hold of them. The plugs screwed into the rails are definitely another weak point - are they plastic? I'm no engineer, but the Kreg jig you used is meant for certain thickness woods - and these posts/rails are much thicker than the small portable jig is meant for. For something that thickness I think the angle, depth and diameter should have all been different.
I’m really curious on how much you charged for materials and labor for those railings?? Iknow it’s obviously included in the whole build but do you have a rough number for just those rails?
I'm curious as to which size Kreg screws you used for this installation? ( After listening further, it sounds like you're using regular 2 1/2" Kreg screws. I would recommend that in the future, you use Kreg HD screws as they are a structural and beefy screw)
Hey how's it going doing the same setup on a job I definitely use GRK two and a half inch for the inch and a half two buys works great definitely recommended more stronger
@@RRBuildings I bought a couple of 6" long torx bits just for this purpose. I noticed when using a shorter bit, the edge of the pocket hole can get a bit mangled.
Very nice. I like the jig for accurate and repeatable work. I really like it that you continue share your successes with us.
Looks fantastic like all your work!
Keeping your upper newell corner posts (which terminate flat-stair) close to the edge of the loft,will help tremendously on stair railings.
If the newels are too far back from the edge,the top stair rail will connect at a higher level then the flat will.
Code calls for 34 inches to top of top rail ,plumbed up from front tip of tread .
Often you see an upper newel (turned corner post), and another post which gets the the stair rail connection.
Typically the posts were mounted inboard too far,which requires a second post.
The GRK's were definitely the right call!
You put more effort and care into those spindles than 99% of finish carpenters on new homes put into their items. AMAZING work. It isn't perfect, but it is better than most things I see in a freaking house, and some of those houses I've looked through were 7 figure homes...and they don't have finish touches as good as yours.
Plug your pocket holes. Kreg even makes plugs for that. It'll make the holes less noticable even if the grain of the plug isn't close to matching the rail. The exposed holes are going to look black from the lower floor. Also pound your finished lumber in place with a dead blow or rubber mallet and a folded up towel. The 'sharp' cut edge of the block can sometimes mess up your finish or even in some cases leave small dents in the finish product. I even yelled 'NO!!' at my phone right before you did that Haha. I look forward to your videos every week. Always like seeing how other carpenters do things. Never stop learning tricks for the arsenal.
If it were my railing I'd have zero complaints. Well done and looks great.
How beautiful the house and how good that they left the panels of the walls with natural wood, it looks really beautiful and the very nice railings, it is appreciated that you can share your work, thanks cordial greetings from San Felipe Chile
Great job, guys. Kregg makes plug cutters so you can plug the holes with the same material. They also sell the plugs pre-cut.
Quality over quantity any day is best! And you sir make the quality matter! Awesome work and very good suggestions in your video! I like how you said while making your jig for the rail poles to use a straight edge instead of your speed square for your center line!
Looking great!
You guys have mad skills.
God bless.
The black balusters look good. Great choice.
Quality like always. Your techniques never fail to impress...
Kyle Kreg makes a plug cutter for the pocket hole; so that you use the same wood to make your plugs. Question the are spacing less then 4" between the baluster. Keep up the good work.
Really looking good. Love this series.
Came out awesome
'Done' after final walk-through and punch list. 👍
Rail looks awesome.. I gotta build a post frame like this one day
It is a very good book for beginners as well as for those that are already into ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt A very good basic ebook to keep as a reference too. I like it and the way the subject matter is presented. It has humor and that helps with the reading.
What’s up Kyle I’m new to the Channel and I’m glad I found it, I’m actually currently Serving in the Air Force Reserves but I am really focusing on getting my GC License! I’ve already taken so much valuable information from your channel! Thanks for the Videos Brother. Please keep them coming! 💪🏻
Excellent workmanship 👍
Looks really good.
Handrail looks great like the rest on the building.
mind-blowing wood Design
I love that look!
good call on the GRKs
Great video, nice job guys
Nice work. Looks great.
Beautiful job 💪
Looking great.....I would loved to have d black posts which would match the windows....just a personal opinion.
Great job.
Love the look
A black cap on top os each post would look great.
that is a really good idea
One of those pyramid shaped ones at the same pitch as the ceiling.
Outstanding MAN !
Man, that was beautiful!
Looks great nice work guys
Awesome! Way easier system than I did a couple years ago. They were black aluminum but didn't sit on pedestals,set in a drilled hole. Had about 300 lin feet to do 😑
I would have had to use a drill press or make sure the template's mating surface was the side I marked. I find that when drilling any reasonable thickness I drift as I go through the material.
Just use it layout side down
Good afternoon from St John Parish, Louisiana 7 Feb 21.
Looks great nice job
С лета смотрю как парни строят огромную сауну)))
Kyle, That template was a great idea.
I'm surprised you didn't use the Kreg plugs to conceal the holes. I've used them on my cedar built deck and liked them.
So wish I could learn from them in person
Actually if you watch the history & story the Kreg screws are met to be structural for that ! However there R specific connectors for what your doing your aware of them. But that GRK is faster and easier no routing! Perfectly fine!, great job and good thinking!
Enjoyed the show
Beautiful
"Dead nutz". Don't ever change guys.
looks very nice
Should be mortise & tenon jointed really!
I don’t trust the Kreg jig screws for that so you done the right thing, wonder could u use a little washer a over the grk screw maybe 🤷♂️
That railing looks awesome! Well done Kyle! 👍😁
Like how inspired you are in your work. It motivates me!
You keep showing that installation driver from milwaukee and giving me the new tool jitters.
i do these railings all the time .i find that i needed to put a filler block mid span under the lower rail.i had kids stand on them and the spindles almost came lose.
Such a good vid
От нас лайк и удачи! 👍
A great job!!!
Итс со факинг гуд)) 😉
You are right about "being wrong" If there is such a thing as reincarnation, I want to come back as either an economist or weatherman. I can't think of 2 occupations where you can be so wrong so often and still remain gainfully employed. And they don't seem to learn form their mistakes. I will go for economist. The lead weatherman always do the 11:00pm news casts. 😂
Yes it's outstanding 👍
Kreg also makes plugs for the holes
Looks real good. Would love to have seen maybe glass
Any worry about the railings swelling/warping in the summer? Looks great btw!
They make the spindle plugs that spin at a rake so you can do the stairs. Straight rails and stair rails. Universal
Dude i bet ive put together 500 of those hanrail sections. Its nice to have someone lower down one end while you eaze the picket in. Dont push the post out of plumb
Very nice railings as I did work in a fab shop long long time ago and I did railings and stairs all in metal even twisted my own pickets great job
I’m a huge fan of smarter not harder. Great videos man.
thats a beautiful place
What did you think of those balusters? I’ve used them on deck railings, and some of them seemed to be a little longer or shorter then others (maybe 1/32 to as much as 1/8). Also, the stair railing holder bracket things, are at a preset angle, so depending what your custom built stair angle is (depending on the rise and run), this brackets could have some gap between the bracket and the pole… it wasn’t horrible, but I did notice it.
I installed that system on my deck. What a pain in the a$$ it was getting all the spindles on those plastic balls lined up. The stairs I had to cut on a parallel angle and that was even harder
The wife: why are you listening to drilling sounds after working with drills all day? 😂😂
Looks good.
How did you attached Newell post to floor ? Did you screw in to framing or just to plywood floor ?
Thanks
Молодцы мужики.
Looking great, all coming together, hope you give us a guided tour once it's finished...
@RRbuilding where are you sourcing those endcaps for the balusters? I'm doing a horizontal baluster rail setup on a customer's job and have been looking for just such things.
In future installs you might consider mortise and tenon joints. No screws needed.
Kyle, maybe too late this time, but when you are done using the template to set those little caps, you can open the holes into slots to help align the spindles rather than fiddling them into the top rail one at a time.
great idea...
GRK all day baby!!!
Did you put in the 10 GRK screws to each end of the bannister railing? Didn't see that part in the video .. great work guys!
If you did each top tail individually rather than putting them all on at once, you could’ve done a 10” lag in the one end of each post like you did the first one for added strength
Is that a “BIG ASS FAN” in that great room?
Just a thought but you could have drilled a 3/4 inch hole all the way through each post and used a wood or pipe Dowling rod though and sticking out about two to three inches out. Then drill each rail to receive the dowl. Then you could hold the outward force a little better. Just an idea
Black channel/trim steel against the white ceiling would have been sharp with the other black accents.
Yesterday we were installing built ins and mantle. And its amazing we still unload just about every tool off the trailers just to put in 8 cabinets and a mantle
I'm a huge fan and its been great seeing you do all of this finish work to the quality that you are known for. With that said, and all due respect, those railings just don't seem safe to me. They look great, but the spindles actually flex when Kyle just grabbed hold of them. The plugs screwed into the rails are definitely another weak point - are they plastic? I'm no engineer, but the Kreg jig you used is meant for certain thickness woods - and these posts/rails are much thicker than the small portable jig is meant for. For something that thickness I think the angle, depth and diameter should have all been different.
I’m really curious on how much you charged for materials and labor for those railings?? Iknow it’s obviously included in the whole build but do you have a rough number for just those rails?
I'm curious as to which size Kreg screws you used for this installation? ( After listening further, it sounds like you're using regular 2 1/2" Kreg screws. I would recommend that in the future, you use Kreg HD screws as they are a structural and beefy screw)
Are those posts just wrapped? How did you set them? Thanks
I'd have put some allthread all the way through the posts into the rails and screwed the rails onto the posts.
Doesn't code require a maximum of 4" spacing between spindles on railings and stairs?
What’s the code require for gaps on the spindles of your guard rails? It’s 4 inches down here in Florida
Kreg has an HD jig and screw that is a #14.
Just a question...where are the bedrooms?
Hey Kyle, which laser device are you using to measure the gap? I assume that’s the one you would also recommend?
bit.ly/250LDM
I sure wish you would have cut those aluminum ballasters about 6 inches to bring your lower rail up for better security.
That's some chunky hand and base rails.💪 Great job on the template as well. 😎 Cheers
Wow a cabin for a family of 20!
Love it.
Help me out. You always have these super comfortable looking pants to work in. What are they?
What forstner bit set is that? I need one!
Hey how's it going doing the same setup on a job I definitely use GRK two and a half inch for the inch and a half two buys works great definitely recommended more stronger
I use GRKs in pocket holes all the time.
I will now forever I think
@@RRBuildings I bought a couple of 6" long torx bits just for this purpose. I noticed when using a shorter bit, the edge of the pocket hole can get a bit mangled.