I love watching you giving the "why" of what you're doing. The tips you give and just the general construction methods teach me something new everytime I watch.
A laser and scaffolding were the two best purchases I made in preparation to finishing the inside of my pole building. The laser helped me overcome the less than perfect structure and working on the scaffolding is much quicker and safer than a ladder. Great craftsmanship as always.
I completely agree about the blown in insulation. I had it done in my house in 2013, 18" is down to 12" now, but also a point you didn't mention. I have had to go into that attic to service different things throughout the house and move the blown in to the side and then try to brush it all back the way it was. I would love to try Rockwool the next time I insulate thanks for informing as usual!
I agree with you. Live on Calif coast south of San Francisco natural air conditioning home built for Boomers returning from war. Not into insulation more Quake stuff. . prior owner 18 inch blown in cellulose now 12 inch. Same situation as you. Heat wave now uncomfortable. Put large Anderson windows in really cut down heat gonna redo insulation seriously considering rockwool. Gas heaters made after ww2 are giant. Utility company said not made anymore Tanks do5 replaceadvised do not replace
I've watched every video, I think it's time to discuss cost. If people are to build better, which I'm a huge fan of, we should be able to understand the cost to do this. Maybe even a Sq foot price, which I hate, but it's something. It's tough to gage with all the sponsorship. If this comes off as a knock it's not, your hardworking attitude has paid off massively for you! Great build!
People always want to know the cost, but what they don't understand is that cost varies WIDELY from region to region, so it's really kind of pointless and even misleading to discuss cost specifics of a particular project because it's not going to be the same half way across the country, or even in the next state.
@D LG I agree to an extent. But I see that siga stuff is crazy high. That mat was like 400 a roll. I just don't understand the concept of it if the panels are air tight on the outside. I use Kyle's ideas and techniques to help to improve my work. I just think cost and making it make sense is just as important
It's pretty simple, pick a square footage for a building and get prices for the various products and do the calculations. There is NO REASON to to bring up sponsors as it is not relevant to the project or you
@@daveklein2826 It is relevant when you want transparency. Kyle is trying to sell us Rockwool for the entire video knowing damn well that it cost a lot more than any other product and don't have any advantage in a ceiling.
Super professional skilled tradesman here- it’s therapeutic watching you work and build with a degree of perfectionism I can relate to. Great to see you be so attentive to detail, the world is full of hacks who take no pride in their work, and are only out to deliver the lowest quality for the fastest rip off.
Surfing around on those types of Bakers/Scaffolds makes things go a lot faster. Pretty fun too grabbing onto a joist and just launching yourself across the room.
I have searched the desert of madness and misinformation of UA-cam far and wide to find this oasis and fountain of truth of information and reason great job on the vid concise and validity thank you for your knowledge and experience
Recently insulated the walls of my garage with rock wool and can say it was absolutely worth every penny. I’ll be doing the same to my basement when the time comes to finish it.
Retiree serious DYI moved to 12 acre home hot summer cold winter. Insulation old blown in. I want to do Is rock wool., seems cleaner is r rating just as good as fiberglass.. I noticed foil on sheathing. Can I retro the foil. And install rock wool on ceiling. Signed dumb Military retiree. PS WIFE SAID CALL IN ARMY CORE OF ENGINEERS…..😊😂
One tip for the insulation in the attic; run the second layer of Rockwool at 90-degrees to the first one and make sure it's long enough to cover the ceiling joists. This will further cut down on the thermal bridging of the existing joists. Great content! Looking forward to more!
@randomrazr Actually No. Blown In Insulation Settles Over Time, Loosing Around A Third Of It's Thickness, As Well As Becoming Compressed, Both Of Which Drop It's R Value Drastically. It's Also. Much More Difficult To Deal With When Accessing An Attic Crawlspace To Work On Electrical Lighting Etc, Due To Having To Maneuver Loose Piles Out The Way To Run Wires, Install Light And Ceiling Fan Boxes Etc. Trying To Put Those Loose Piles Back, And Hopefully Achieve The Same R Value Is A Nightmare As Well!!! Rock Wool Is Both Dimensionally, And Thermally Stable, As Well As It's Ability To Hold Up Better To Rodents, Moisture, Mold, And Microbes. It's All Around A Much More Superior Product, As Well As User Friendly. I Hope This Helps Answer Your Question.
I remember the first time I used rock wool to insulate pipes on a roof in Eastern Washington. I had no idea what it was made of but the next day felt like I had swallowed a bunch of broken tortilla chips. My throat was raw and couldn't stop coughing. I would highly suggest wearing a mask. It's made of basalt rock and a recycled steel-making byproduct known as slag. Not something you really want to be breathing in. I'm not a huge safety guy on the job site, but a mask with rock wool will always be a must for me in the future.
I'll be curious to see a blower door test done on this house when complete. I'm also curious to see the utility bills of the previous house you did to put into perspective the actual cost of heating/cooling a structure. If I remember correctly it had a very low blower door score.
I am using Rockwool for the first time right now. It does cost more than fiberglass, but without a doubt, it is all I will use from now on. As a plus, for some reason, I find it very satisfying to work with. (?) Can't ever remember ever making that assessment when working with fiberglass.
@@ecuadordave8076My preference is spray foam under the house in a crawl space, ROCKWOOL in the walls and blow in for the attic. Putting some ROCKWOOL in next week. Still enjoy working with it.
@@ecuadordave8076 Closed-cell spray foam can either be fantastic in certain applications, and somewhat problematic in others. Open -cell spray foam can be either quite good or a total nightmare if it isn't installed with consideration for proper ventilation or drying potential for the sheeting it's attached to. Either type can and have destroyed houses by rot due to trapped moisture when installed incorrectly. I'd suggest that you do a deep-dive into Joe Lstubrick's and Matt Risinger's various Building Science UA-cam videos to determine how either should be installed. I'm not entirely up to date, but I suspect that you'll find that Closed cell is still one of the best insulation choices for certain scenarios, and that Open Cell is slowly being overshadowed by better insulation options even in those situations where it has worked ok in the past. Regardless, it mostly comes down to the science of water vapor control and the movement of such vapor into, through and back out of the insulation, sheathing , framing and cladding systems. Fire-proofing considerations also must not overlooked when choosing either or a combination of several types.
Your videos are such a breath of fresh air because of their sincerity and authenticity. I really appreciate this. I'm motivated by it to complete my basement renovation.
It's pretty amazing when one of your hobbies also becomes your job and you're so good at it. You put together some great videos this is a great series and really shows the steps that you need to take to produce a structure of this quality. Thanks always for the great content
Been wanting to have rockwool installed in my attic but for some strange reason almost all contractors in my area won’t do it or don’t know how. Looks like I’ll do it myself. Thanks for this video!
We live in an old home 150+ years and I used Rockwool for the fire rating in the hallway and stairwell along with 5/8 inch fire rated drywall as an added insurance in case of a fire, I hope I never have to cash in that “Policy!” Great product.
Fantastic work guys! Your client should appreciate how much you care about not leaving air gaps, how you use proper 4-inch screws that will prevent those 2x4s from getting loose over time, how you thoughtfully overlap the insulation, how you put in the OSB to prevent air flow between the wall assembly and the unconditioned attic, etc. I like the idea of using the 2x4s to create a service cavity so you don't have penetrations. All the work is done thoughtfully with great attention to details!
We use that exact same scaffold, it saves so much time by removing the need to go up and down on a ladder. I can load it with material and tools and just roll around the job with no break in workflow.
Kyle, it was good to see you purchased a scaffold. I was going to suggest this purchase after seeing how you 'walked' your ladder early in the video. Thanks for putting these video's together, and by your subscriber count, others seem to like them too.
I used Rockwool on my post frame. Used comfortboard horizontally between the stringers and vertical between the posts. After watching 3 friends lose their shops due to fire and spray foam I am super happy with the Rockwool.
@@istvanmeissler2238 Stringers, girts, girders. The horizontal boards connecting the posts that the metal attaches to. 1-1/2” thick Rockwool comfortboard horizontal between those right against the metal is what I did. So I have over 8” of it insulation my walls. And it’s fire proof!
@@SnappyWasHere ok now I understand exactly what you were saying. Thanks for the clarification. Just to help you in future; girts are the horizontal boards, though some builders will wrongly call them purlins. Purlins refer to the boards used as nailers which tie the rafters or trusses together. Stringers are for stairs and girders, as you know, are weight bearing beams. It sounds to me as though you made a very wise decision in the manner in which you insulated your pole barn. Though I have been aware of rock wool type insulation for 30 years, I never really took the time to learn about it's features and benefits. Now that I understand, I plan to use it myself much as you have. It seems to me to be the best solution for insulation, fire resistance, and possibly rodents as well. Best wishes.
I can't hammer a nail straight to save me. But watching your videos is so great. Kind of got the itch again to build my own house, I mean have it built. But using the ideas I've learned from your build videos.
pro tip - install the insulation batts with the logo/R value facing out so the inspector/boss can see it is the correct material. And insulating with the rockwool is so much better than the pink fiberglass. no itchy, no mask needed and cuts easier.
Nice. 10’ wall I had used 2 layers of 4” Kraft fiberglass tucking in behind two upper battens and one lower this kept the 24” wide insulation from falling, and insulated behind posts. Still was able to run shielded wire behind 3/4 sanded finish plywood. Electric boxes could float a little to work them thru cutouts
Great video! This is exactly what I want to do in our garage (unfinished) and possibly up in our attic space. Our house still has the original blown-in insulation that is about 24-yrs old. I'm sure it needs to be cleaned out and replaced entirely. We have already used mineral wool in finished parts of our basement, and this winter very comfortable down there.
I feel like you could turn a bathroom exhaust fan on and lower the atmospheric pressure in the house to the point water boils quicker with how well you've sealed that structure. I was impressed with the last one you tested- I hope you do the same thermal inspection on this one too!
Been using rockwol insulation since the late 90’s when it came out main thing I believe in is it doesn’t sag in a studded wall like the fiberglass does over time
for strapping i use a jig out of some scraps. it sits on the backside of the material to space it out. in this instance you could tack screw it on the face of the board and lock your other piece in. I work alone a lot so have come up and researched many ways to help me.
I'm buying property this year, then doing an ICF build. Full basement and first floor in an R30 ICF. In floor heat, entire wall envelope goes up with structural and insulation all in 1 shot.
I'm a big fan of mineral wool. I'm building a stick built house in a couple months in a Zone 5 area, planning on doing 2" spray foam for air tightness, then filling the rest of the stud bay with R15 mineral wool, and then to kill thermal bridging, doing 2" of the comfortboard80 on the exterior for what should end up being about a R36 (code is R22 I think). It's so easy to work with even my framer recommended I do it myself and not pay him to do it (was planning on that anyway)
Man I really wish I had you doing my insulation!! I really like the rock wool product and wish builders here in California used it. Everything here is blown in fiberglass which makes it hard to really get a nicely insulated cap!! Nice work and thank you for sharing your expertise!!
Well stated comment. Kyle takes the time to explain and train what he and Greg are doing for those that want to do it right and NOT cut corners or do shotty work.
The MetalTech climb-N-Go scaffold battery powered drive system sure is interesting. $1,500 is a chunk of change but being able to drive it around would from the top of the platform would be pretty sweet. Definitely a lot cheaper than a Genie man lift or similar.
I put 2 inch rigid foam on the inside of the girts sealed to the post and taped at the seams. Then I put up r23 mineral wool Infront of that then I built a 2x4 wall 1.5 inch's in from the post. That is filled with r15. So essentially I've got r33 behind my stud wall and r15 in it. Attic is blown in cellulose r70 with a raised heal truss
Please tell me your going to do a blower door test on this house! Can't wait to see the score you get compared to the last one! Great work guys keep it up
First time I’ve watched you video . Excellent work ! I used to install Rock Wool insulation in Ontario Canada . We also blew in Rock Wool insulation in open attics and yes I agree with you about settlement issue . It can be minimal i IF contractor use proper amount of bags and minimize “ Fluffing” . We also used batting R12 or 20 and this blew in additional on top to bring up to total R-value,6
I retrofitted rockwool into an existing old house attic, double layered to R38 (R23+R15 Bats). House is toasty! Can't imagine how efficient this home will be! Only problem is house wasn't airtight and some 'dust' eventually makes it into the house. you must plug every hole/orifice for this to be clean.
On Rockwool, spend the extra $ for the namebrand stuff. I just did a remodel adding a room and I bought OwensCorning. I've never had any kind of reaction to any kind of insulation; fiberglass, rockwool, even foam. I had hives on both arms and was wheezing till I put on a mask. Crazy. Plus it kept falling apart and splitting into the little sheets. I used about 5 bags so I doubt it was a fluke or manufacturing error.
I'm curious on the materials + labor cost comparison of all Rockwool as you have done for this build (unconditioned attic space) vs all spray foam similar to your last build (fully conditioned attic space). I suspect finding a Rockwool insulation contractor to put in the dedication towards proper installation as you have would be very difficult and the labor cost would put Rockwool and spray foam on par with each other.
Very interesting method you used. You’d benefit from researching the Ontario Building Code Supplementary Bulletin CB-12. It provides builders with a recipe to achieve value engineered energy conserving building envelopes while using conventional framing methods. You used Batt insulation which is friction fit between studs normally. Risk of falling out during construction however. The electrical chase in horizontal 2x4 is really smart, and I’ve done that a couple of times. One easy way of eliminating frost buildup on wood sheathing applied externally is to eliminate wood sheathing altogether and go to breathable moisture barriers like Typar double layered together with metal cross bracing let into studs. The advantage of wood sheathing as an anti racking membrane is that it does not need thought about engineering cross bracing. There are apps for that however. Nice work. Majrex product worth checking out.
Some of the older buildings here in Denmark they used chickenwire to hold rockwool in place. I´ve seen papir in Sweden. -like the sort you put on the floor when you paint walls inside.
This book is a great source of inspiration for anyone who wants to build high-quality tiny homes. Instead of settling for ordinary materials and designs, you can learn how to create structures that are durable and aesthetically pleasing. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxLum--iPp9YKZ09j1BMdHaBMLkrGfIbcm The book does not provide detailed engineering drawings, but it offers plenty of photos that illustrate the concepts and designs. The book assumes that you have some basic building skills, but it also provides a range of ideas that can suit different preferences and needs. I found this book very useful and informative, and I appreciate it greatly. Thank you for providing such a valuable content in these Shed Plans. It is remarkable! For long-term service, it seems like it is worth investing a bit more money. Ryan, you are very generous to share such extensive information with us at a very affordable price.
Очень удивлен, смотрю видеоролик в своём городе, Выборге, в Ленинградской области , где работает завод rock wool, настолько привык к нему, что не ожидал увидеть этот материал у Вас, где всегда что-то новое.
Awesome video as always I just wanted to share with you Kyle last year I bought a RR Truwerk shirt unfortunately it didn’t fit. Fast forward to today a week after weight loss surgery and I tried it on today fits like a glove.
love your videos. it is so nice to see rockwool being installed for projects. This is my preferred insulation and always argue with other contractors about fiberglass and it's numerous inferior characteristics to rockwool. Rockwool has great sound blocking/absorption, fire resistance, and water just beads up on it as it is water resistant and won't absorb the moisture. This stuff is the real deal but unfortunately majority of builders out there use crap quality standard fiberglass, which is extremely drafty (not form fitting like rockwool), harbors moisture and causes mold/mildew growth if wet, sags over time, etc. Although pricey it's well worth the investment to me.
@@gregd018 agreed. argued with another youtuber that is pretty popular they claim fiberglass is just as good of a sound absorbing product as rockwool. They are 100% inaccurate on that and it's been proven/tested. I experienced severe mold/mildew issues on rim joists in my current home as a result of drafty fiberglass install as it simply doesn't separate the hot/cold air properly. another reason why fiberglass is junk.
A great way to put that screen on the soffit as you were talking towards the end of the video is to use your lexel run a bead around, lay the screen and use your tape squeegee to adhear it. And the bugs can't get between the staples!
I am currently working both 3000+ square feet with rock and rock. The fastest way to cut your rock move that knife from Hamilton beach. I tried the black and decker and it won’t cut it. I’ll have to occasionally sharpened your serrated late. It makes a job so much easier leader, and faster. I don’t know about anyone else, but this stuff makes my face itch and turn red like I have a sunburn.
I was super hesitant to get that stapler for 140, but I had to hang some tyvek and recover 8 dining chairs, so I picked one up. I'm actually shocked by how many things I have used it for since then.
I think the ideal way would be to spray 1 inch of close cell on the walls then put the rock wool up that would assure a thermal break and be great insect protection. I’m thinking you could also spray 1 inch over the rock wool in the attic, and that would assure no air gets through any of the cracks.
Between moving the ladder & new scaffold, Kyle has invented a new core fitness fad. Maybe not OSHA-approved, but it really works your abs, back & legs . . . plus you don't have to keep climbing up and down all day.
in Sweden, the most common type of insulation for attics is at least 20 inches with blow-in insulation. I don't miss the last time I put board insulation in an attic 😅
Nice video, good attention to insulating detail. I hv noticed that a wall is a lot warmer when the insulation is tight against the interior wall. At first I thought the air gap would warm up, prob does some , but I think convection currents develop in the space and cool he wall. It is just a lot better to fill the wall between the wind-wash barrier and the interior wall.
I low how you are doing it, that's nice work, you are taking care and thinking how you can do it best as possible, I would hire you if I was living nearby!
Love your videos. Can you tell us how the cost compares to spray foam. Don't need to know actual dollar amounts just whether it costs more or less...percentage if possible.
I'm not sure that other trades will do what you think they will in the attic space, as I am well aware you are doing premium building. Also, I think that as an individual that built a home with blown in cellulose in the early 80's and went into the attic in the early 2000's there overall was little settling. I ofcourse had high R sheathing nailed to the inside of the exterior walls and all joints taped with aluminum tape. Calculated ceiling was an R-41 and my Walls were R-27. We literally had such a sealed home that when I built a sun room, our furnace was only running in the beginning of the day and if we had a party with several couples, we had to open the skylights to let heat out.
Great video, definitely the plan for our own house and workshop/garage. One thing I would like to know, how do you prevent mice from using that service space (gap between drywall and the siga wrap) as a highway? We are planning a build on a hobby farm and will have rodents to deal with.
Do you ever do conditioned attic spaces? We are looking at building now and would be nice to have a conditioned space for duct work/ storage. Maybe in past video I missed?
I live in a home built in the 50s and I installed Rockwool when I remolded and my electric bill doesn't get over $150 in the summer and I live in the south.
I love watching you giving the "why" of what you're doing. The tips you give and just the general construction methods teach me something new everytime I watch.
The honesty and realness in your videos is such a breath of fresh air. Thanks so much for this. It's inspiring me to finish my basement remodel.
It’s nice to see people using non-faced insulation and Rockwool is great stuff!
A laser and scaffolding were the two best purchases I made in preparation to finishing the inside of my pole building. The laser helped me overcome the less than perfect structure and working on the scaffolding is much quicker and safer than a ladder. Great craftsmanship as always.
I completely agree about the blown in insulation. I had it done in my house in 2013, 18" is down to 12" now, but also a point you didn't mention. I have had to go into that attic to service different things throughout the house and move the blown in to the side and then try to brush it all back the way it was. I would love to try Rockwool the next time I insulate thanks for informing as usual!
I agree with you. Live on Calif coast south of San Francisco natural air conditioning home built for Boomers returning from war. Not into insulation more Quake stuff. . prior owner 18 inch blown in cellulose now 12 inch. Same situation as you. Heat wave now uncomfortable. Put large Anderson windows in really cut down heat gonna redo insulation seriously considering rockwool. Gas heaters made after ww2 are giant. Utility company said not made anymore Tanks do5 replaceadvised do not replace
Excellent air sealing and insulating details! Great job Kyle and Greg!
I've watched every video, I think it's time to discuss cost. If people are to build better, which I'm a huge fan of, we should be able to understand the cost to do this. Maybe even a Sq foot price, which I hate, but it's something. It's tough to gage with all the sponsorship. If this comes off as a knock it's not, your hardworking attitude has paid off massively for you! Great build!
People always want to know the cost, but what they don't understand is that cost varies WIDELY from region to region, so it's really kind of pointless and even misleading to discuss cost specifics of a particular project because it's not going to be the same half way across the country, or even in the next state.
@D LG I agree to an extent. But I see that siga stuff is crazy high. That mat was like 400 a roll. I just don't understand the concept of it if the panels are air tight on the outside. I use Kyle's ideas and techniques to help to improve my work. I just think cost and making it make sense is just as important
It's pretty simple, pick a square footage for a building and get prices for the various products and do the calculations. There is NO REASON to to bring up sponsors as it is not relevant to the project or you
@@daveklein2826 It is relevant when you want transparency. Kyle is trying to sell us Rockwool for the entire video knowing damn well that it cost a lot more than any other product and don't have any advantage in a ceiling.
@Dave Klein he said it was a very affordable home for most people. That's why I asked, he brought up the topic. Nothing major
Super professional skilled tradesman here- it’s therapeutic watching you work and build with a degree of perfectionism I can relate to.
Great to see you be so attentive to detail, the world is full of hacks who take no pride in their work, and are only out to deliver the lowest quality for the fastest rip off.
Surfing around on those types of Bakers/Scaffolds makes things go a lot faster. Pretty fun too grabbing onto a joist and just launching yourself across the room.
I have searched the desert of madness and misinformation of UA-cam far and wide to find this oasis and fountain of truth of information and reason great job on the vid concise and validity thank you for your knowledge and experience
Recently insulated the walls of my garage with rock wool and can say it was absolutely worth every penny. I’ll be doing the same to my basement when the time comes to finish it.
Retiree serious DYI moved to 12 acre home hot summer cold winter. Insulation old blown in. I want to do Is rock wool., seems cleaner is r rating just as good as fiberglass.. I noticed foil on sheathing. Can I retro the foil. And install rock wool on ceiling. Signed dumb Military retiree. PS WIFE SAID CALL IN ARMY CORE OF ENGINEERS…..😊😂
One tip for the insulation in the attic; run the second layer of Rockwool at 90-degrees to the first one and make sure it's long enough to cover the ceiling joists. This will further cut down on the thermal bridging of the existing joists. Great content! Looking forward to more!
wouldnt blow in insulation be better
For the second layer do you do R38 or R13 as we see in the video?
no@@marinamassievckaia3934
@randomrazr Actually No. Blown In Insulation Settles Over Time, Loosing Around A Third Of It's Thickness, As Well As Becoming Compressed, Both Of Which Drop It's R Value Drastically. It's Also. Much More Difficult To Deal With When Accessing An Attic Crawlspace To Work On Electrical Lighting Etc, Due To Having To Maneuver Loose Piles Out The Way To Run Wires, Install Light And Ceiling Fan Boxes Etc. Trying To Put Those Loose Piles Back, And Hopefully Achieve The Same R Value Is A Nightmare As Well!!! Rock Wool Is Both Dimensionally, And Thermally Stable, As Well As It's Ability To Hold Up Better To Rodents, Moisture, Mold, And Microbes. It's All Around A Much More Superior Product, As Well As User Friendly. I Hope This Helps Answer Your Question.
either one still better then spray foam . both dont off gas and can be easily moved away@@crazyericstewartofcanton9999
I remember the first time I used rock wool to insulate pipes on a roof in Eastern Washington. I had no idea what it was made of but the next day felt like I had swallowed a bunch of broken tortilla chips. My throat was raw and couldn't stop coughing. I would highly suggest wearing a mask. It's made of basalt rock and a recycled steel-making byproduct known as slag. Not something you really want to be breathing in. I'm not a huge safety guy on the job site, but a mask with rock wool will always be a must for me in the future.
I'll be curious to see a blower door test done on this house when complete. I'm also curious to see the utility bills of the previous house you did to put into perspective the actual cost of heating/cooling a structure. If I remember correctly it had a very low blower door score.
You do not want airtight bubs
38 Minutes of FUN! YEAH! Thanks Kyle!
I am using Rockwool for the first time right now. It does cost more than fiberglass, but without a doubt, it is all I will use from now on.
As a plus, for some reason, I find it very satisfying to work with. (?) Can't ever remember ever making that assessment when working with fiberglass.
I know the feeling George
I was sold on spray foanm. this is causing me to rethink. Your thoughts?
@@ecuadordave8076My preference is spray foam under the house in a crawl space, ROCKWOOL in the walls and blow in for the attic. Putting some ROCKWOOL in next week. Still enjoy working with it.
@@ecuadordave8076 Closed-cell spray foam can either be fantastic in certain applications, and somewhat problematic in others.
Open -cell spray foam can be either quite good or a total nightmare if it isn't installed with consideration for proper ventilation or drying potential for the sheeting it's attached to.
Either type can and have destroyed houses by rot due to trapped moisture when installed incorrectly.
I'd suggest that you do a deep-dive into Joe Lstubrick's and Matt Risinger's various Building Science UA-cam videos to determine how either should be installed.
I'm not entirely up to date, but I suspect that you'll find that Closed cell is still one of the best insulation choices for certain scenarios, and that Open Cell is slowly being overshadowed by better insulation options even in those situations where it has worked ok in the past.
Regardless, it mostly comes down to the science of water vapor control and the movement of such vapor into, through and back out of the insulation, sheathing , framing and cladding systems.
Fire-proofing considerations also must not overlooked when choosing either or a combination of several types.
Your videos are such a breath of fresh air because of their sincerity and authenticity. I really appreciate this. I'm motivated by it to complete my basement renovation.
I'm in IT, and I have to participate in 45 minutes of CE every other year in Ladder Safety for insurance purposes... Awesome skills on that ladder!
27:20 "You got that roller?" *fumbles it* "... and then we're just gonna use a squeegee"
You crack me up Kyle. 😆
It's pretty amazing when one of your hobbies also becomes your job and you're so good at it. You put together some great videos this is a great series and really shows the steps that you need to take to produce a structure of this quality. Thanks always for the great content
Been wanting to have rockwool installed in my attic but for some strange reason almost all contractors in my area won’t do it or don’t know how. Looks like I’ll do it myself. Thanks for this video!
We live in an old home 150+ years and I used Rockwool for the fire rating in the hallway and stairwell along with 5/8 inch fire rated drywall as an added insurance in case of a fire, I hope I never have to cash in that “Policy!” Great product.
Fantastic work guys! Your client should appreciate how much you care about not leaving air gaps, how you use proper 4-inch screws that will prevent those 2x4s from getting loose over time, how you thoughtfully overlap the insulation, how you put in the OSB to prevent air flow between the wall assembly and the unconditioned attic, etc. I like the idea of using the 2x4s to create a service cavity so you don't have penetrations. All the work is done thoughtfully with great attention to details!
Karra and Donna will be helping me with airflow....their counsel i will keep.
We use that exact same scaffold, it saves so much time by removing the need to go up and down on a ladder. I can load it with material and tools and just roll around the job with no break in workflow.
Kyle, it was good to see you purchased a scaffold. I was going to suggest this purchase after seeing how you 'walked' your ladder early in the video. Thanks for putting these video's together, and by your subscriber count, others seem to like them too.
Not aloud in Norway, there all ways one safety person watching you’re choice off tools.
@@jacobusjohannescaspers4476 What are you talking about? Scaffolds? Those are allowed.
I was talking about the stilts, they are not aloud at the building sites. Greetings from Norway
I agree.
I used Rockwool on my post frame. Used comfortboard horizontally between the stringers and vertical between the posts. After watching 3 friends lose their shops due to fire and spray foam I am super happy with the Rockwool.
What do you mean by "stringers"? Usually stringers refer to stairs.
@@istvanmeissler2238 Stringers, girts, girders. The horizontal boards connecting the posts that the metal attaches to. 1-1/2” thick Rockwool comfortboard horizontal between those right against the metal is what I did. So I have over 8” of it insulation my walls. And it’s fire proof!
@@SnappyWasHere very nice
@@SnappyWasHere ok now I understand exactly what you were saying. Thanks for the clarification. Just to help you in future; girts are the horizontal boards, though some builders will wrongly call them purlins. Purlins refer to the boards used as nailers which tie the rafters or trusses together. Stringers are for stairs and girders, as you know, are weight bearing beams. It sounds to me as though you made a very wise decision in the manner in which you insulated your pole barn. Though I have been aware of rock wool type insulation for 30 years, I never really took the time to learn about it's features and benefits. Now that I understand, I plan to use it myself much as you have. It seems to me to be the best solution for insulation, fire resistance, and possibly rodents as well. Best wishes.
I think I am gonna install this on my shop. I didn’t insulate the wall when built. I think this would work great! Thanks for all you do Kyle!!!🎉
Go for it!
I can't hammer a nail straight to save me. But watching your videos is so great. Kind of got the itch again to build my own house, I mean have it built. But using the ideas I've learned from your build videos.
I miss my drywall stilts. After a hip replacement doctor said to sell them. Love your attention to details that make the job better for the customer.
pro tip - install the insulation batts with the logo/R value facing out so the inspector/boss can see it is the correct material. And insulating with the rockwool is so much better than the pink fiberglass. no itchy, no mask needed and cuts easier.
Still should wear a mask, eyes, and gloves.
mask very much needed.
wow what a amazing skills you have enjoy so much watching your learning video thanks for sharing greetings from the netherlands
Nice. 10’ wall I had used 2 layers of 4” Kraft fiberglass tucking in behind two upper battens and one lower this kept the 24” wide insulation from falling, and insulated behind posts. Still was able to run shielded wire behind 3/4 sanded finish plywood. Electric boxes could float a little to work them thru cutouts
Great video! This is exactly what I want to do in our garage (unfinished) and possibly up in our attic space. Our house still has the original blown-in insulation that is about 24-yrs old. I'm sure it needs to be cleaned out and replaced entirely. We have already used mineral wool in finished parts of our basement, and this winter very comfortable down there.
I feel like you could turn a bathroom exhaust fan on and lower the atmospheric pressure in the house to the point water boils quicker with how well you've sealed that structure. I was impressed with the last one you tested- I hope you do the same thermal inspection on this one too!
Karra and Donna will be helping me with airflow....their counsel i will keep.
Rockwool is the best insulator ever! It's sound insulator, heat insulator AND fire proof!!! Thanks for filming Kyle! 👍😁
no its not...
Been using rockwol insulation since the late 90’s when it came out main thing I believe in is it doesn’t sag in a studded wall like the fiberglass does over time
Also if a pipe bursts you can just dry it out and re-use unlike fiberglass which turns to mush
Looks great and love the insulation but what’s the plan for keeping the rough wiring 1 1/2” back from the drywall to meet nec?
I love that scaffolding, best part is you can stack them to get more height. I think if you run the outriggers you can go three kits high
for strapping i use a jig out of some scraps. it sits on the backside of the material to space it out. in this instance you could tack screw it on the face of the board and lock your other piece in. I work alone a lot so have come up and researched many ways to help me.
I'm buying property this year, then doing an ICF build.
Full basement and first floor in an R30 ICF. In floor heat, entire wall envelope goes up with structural and insulation all in 1 shot.
0:00 having just priced insulating a barn with Rockwool I hear this as “we have been walking around and working around piles of MONEY!”
I've always used the great stuff spray foam behind the columns, before I insulate the walls. That way there isn't those voids to let cold air in
34:15 That looks like a yellowjacket paradise
Kyle
Great show. Good to see this insulation with rockwool in ceiling. I am sold on rockwool and use it on all my remodel jobs for walls.
I instantly liked your acrobatic method of locomotion; your videos are fun and informative! Thanks, a new subscriber. 👍
This was my plan in redoing my attic. Thanks for the tips.
I did the taping on a ceiling like that many yeas ago. All the 2x4s sag, it made it nearly impossible to make perfectly flat.
I'm a big fan of mineral wool. I'm building a stick built house in a couple months in a Zone 5 area, planning on doing 2" spray foam for air tightness, then filling the rest of the stud bay with R15 mineral wool, and then to kill thermal bridging, doing 2" of the comfortboard80 on the exterior for what should end up being about a R36 (code is R22 I think). It's so easy to work with even my framer recommended I do it myself and not pay him to do it (was planning on that anyway)
I'm so glad I watched this video. Learned a lot. Thanks!
Man I really wish I had you doing my insulation!! I really like the rock wool product and wish builders here in California used it. Everything here is blown in fiberglass which makes it hard to really get a nicely insulated cap!! Nice work and thank you for sharing your expertise!!
Beautiful! Some great info with an excellent demo. Thank you! Will come in handy this spring.
Another great video. I really appreciate the amount of detail you shared. Well done sir.
Well stated comment. Kyle takes the time to explain and train what he and Greg are doing for those that want to do it right and NOT cut corners or do shotty work.
rockwool is easy to cut and more solid , used alot in europe more so for sound .
The MetalTech climb-N-Go scaffold battery powered drive system sure is interesting. $1,500 is a chunk of change but being able to drive it around would from the top of the platform would be pretty sweet. Definitely a lot cheaper than a Genie man lift or similar.
I put 2 inch rigid foam on the inside of the girts sealed to the post and taped at the seams. Then I put up r23 mineral wool Infront of that then I built a 2x4 wall 1.5 inch's in from the post. That is filled with r15. So essentially I've got r33 behind my stud wall and r15 in it. Attic is blown in cellulose r70 with a raised heal truss
Awesome
I just got the same scaffold! Makes it really easy to finish drywall on a 9' ceiling!
Did you put an actual floor in the attic for all the additional storage space ? And did you end up also insulating the roof ?
Please tell me your going to do a blower door test on this house! Can't wait to see the score you get compared to the last one! Great work guys keep it up
First time I’ve watched you video . Excellent work !
I used to install Rock Wool insulation in Ontario Canada .
We also blew in Rock Wool insulation in open attics and yes I agree with you about settlement issue . It can be minimal i IF contractor use proper amount of bags and minimize “ Fluffing” .
We also used batting R12 or 20 and this blew in additional on top to bring up to total R-value,6
It's obvious that you guys are delivering high good work
I retrofitted rockwool into an existing old house attic, double layered to R38 (R23+R15 Bats). House is toasty! Can't imagine how efficient this home will be! Only problem is house wasn't airtight and some 'dust' eventually makes it into the house. you must plug every hole/orifice for this to be clean.
On Rockwool, spend the extra $ for the namebrand stuff. I just did a remodel adding a room and I bought OwensCorning. I've never had any kind of reaction to any kind of insulation; fiberglass, rockwool, even foam. I had hives on both arms and was wheezing till I put on a mask. Crazy. Plus it kept falling apart and splitting into the little sheets. I used about 5 bags so I doubt it was a fluke or manufacturing error.
Roxul is amazing. After using it on a few projects including at my own house, I'll never go back to anything else.
Rockwool is the way to go. Nice job.
I'm curious on the materials + labor cost comparison of all Rockwool as you have done for this build (unconditioned attic space) vs all spray foam similar to your last build (fully conditioned attic space). I suspect finding a Rockwool insulation contractor to put in the dedication towards proper installation as you have would be very difficult and the labor cost would put Rockwool and spray foam on par with each other.
Any dumbass can install Rockwool. It’s easier than fiberglass. Shit, pick up a Jose and Pablo at the corner of Home Depot. They’ll get er done
I did my whole basement in Rockwool. GREAT stuff. Best thing is it's considered a firebreak of sorts. Check your local ordinances.
Amazing Craftsmanship!
Well done!
Rockwool is great to work with. Especially for future servicing behind the walls and ceiling. But the cost!
12:55 have you ever thought of adding "air filled" swivel wheels to your scaffolding to make it easier to roll over obstacles?
Bonus of that scaffold, it makes putting up Christmas lights much easier and safer.
Very interesting method you used. You’d benefit from researching the Ontario Building Code Supplementary Bulletin CB-12. It provides builders with a recipe to achieve value engineered energy conserving building envelopes while using conventional framing methods. You used Batt insulation which is friction fit between studs normally. Risk of falling out during construction however. The electrical chase in horizontal 2x4 is really smart, and I’ve done that a couple of times. One easy way of eliminating frost buildup on wood sheathing applied externally is to eliminate wood sheathing altogether and go to breathable moisture barriers like Typar double layered together with metal cross bracing let into studs. The advantage of wood sheathing as an anti racking membrane is that it does not need thought about engineering cross bracing. There are apps for that however. Nice work. Majrex product worth checking out.
33:52 did all those roof screws miss the beam, or are they something else?
Some of the older buildings here in Denmark they used chickenwire to hold rockwool in place.
I´ve seen papir in Sweden. -like the sort you put on the floor when you paint walls inside.
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Очень удивлен, смотрю видеоролик в своём городе, Выборге, в Ленинградской области , где работает завод rock wool, настолько привык к нему, что не ожидал увидеть этот материал у Вас, где всегда что-то новое.
When you were explaining about the soffit, I noticed a lot of nails coming through the roof, perhaps missed the purlin, is that a no big deal?
Awesome video as always I just wanted to share with you Kyle last year I bought a RR Truwerk shirt unfortunately it didn’t fit. Fast forward to today a week after weight loss surgery and I tried it on today fits like a glove.
Wow Rick good for you brother
love your videos. it is so nice to see rockwool being installed for projects. This is my preferred insulation and always argue with other contractors about fiberglass and it's numerous inferior characteristics to rockwool. Rockwool has great sound blocking/absorption, fire resistance, and water just beads up on it as it is water resistant and won't absorb the moisture. This stuff is the real deal but unfortunately majority of builders out there use crap quality standard fiberglass, which is extremely drafty (not form fitting like rockwool), harbors moisture and causes mold/mildew growth if wet, sags over time, etc. Although pricey it's well worth the investment to me.
@@gregd018 agreed. argued with another youtuber that is pretty popular they claim fiberglass is just as good of a sound absorbing product as rockwool. They are 100% inaccurate on that and it's been proven/tested. I experienced severe mold/mildew issues on rim joists in my current home as a result of drafty fiberglass install as it simply doesn't separate the hot/cold air properly. another reason why fiberglass is junk.
A great way to put that screen on the soffit as you were talking towards the end of the video is to use your lexel run a bead around, lay the screen and use your tape squeegee to adhear it. And the bugs can't get between the staples!
Put the insulation on the out side. Love learning about post frame frame you guys.
That was a nice plug for your discount code. Smooth as Greg's calves.
I am currently working both 3000+ square feet with rock and rock. The fastest way to cut your rock move that knife from Hamilton beach. I tried the black and decker and it won’t cut it. I’ll have to occasionally sharpened your serrated late. It makes a job so much easier leader, and faster. I don’t know about anyone else, but this stuff makes my face itch and turn red like I have a sunburn.
Nice tag team action nailing those brackets!👍
Excellent insulating job.
Absolutely love your videos. Great coverage!!
What do you have to do for fireblocking? Was the OSB installed about 13:22 for fireblocking or separate attic from wall insulation?
I was super hesitant to get that stapler for 140, but I had to hang some tyvek and recover 8 dining chairs, so I picked one up. I'm actually shocked by how many things I have used it for since then.
I think the ideal way would be to spray 1 inch of close cell on the walls then put the rock wool up that would assure a thermal break and be great insect protection. I’m thinking you could also spray 1 inch over the rock wool in the attic, and that would assure no air gets through any of the cracks.
Between moving the ladder & new scaffold, Kyle has invented a new core fitness fad. Maybe not OSHA-approved, but it really works your abs, back & legs . . . plus you don't have to keep climbing up and down all day.
in Sweden, the most common type of insulation for attics is at least 20 inches with blow-in insulation. I don't miss the last time I put board insulation in an attic 😅
Nice video, good attention to insulating detail. I hv noticed that a wall is a lot warmer when the insulation is tight against the interior wall. At first I thought the air gap would warm up, prob does some , but I think convection currents develop in the space and cool he wall. It is just a lot better to fill the wall between the wind-wash barrier and the interior wall.
I low how you are doing it, that's nice work, you are taking care and thinking how you can do it best as possible, I would hire you if I was living nearby!
So you dont foam /insulate the dead inside stud corner air spaces before insulating. Would that not fail building inspection
Love your videos. Can you tell us how the cost compares to spray foam. Don't need to know actual dollar amounts just whether it costs more or less...percentage if possible.
Anyone who has to work in that attic later thanks you for using bat insulation over blown.
Exactly!!
I'm not sure that other trades will do what you think they will in the attic space, as I am well aware you are doing premium building. Also, I think that as an individual that built a home with blown in cellulose in the early 80's and went into the attic in the early 2000's there overall was little settling. I ofcourse had high R sheathing nailed to the inside of the exterior walls and all joints taped with aluminum tape. Calculated ceiling was an R-41 and my Walls were R-27. We literally had such a sealed home that when I built a sun room, our furnace was only running in the beginning of the day and if we had a party with several couples, we had to open the skylights to let heat out.
Great video, definitely the plan for our own house and workshop/garage. One thing I would like to know, how do you prevent mice from using that service space (gap between drywall and the siga wrap) as a highway? We are planning a build on a hobby farm and will have rodents to deal with.
Which is better spray, foam, insulation or what you’re doing there with the Rockwell installation
We’re in Michigan & probably should’ve put osb before spray foaming insulation.
Do you ever do conditioned attic spaces? We are looking at building now and would be nice to have a conditioned space for duct work/ storage. Maybe in past video I missed?
I live in a home built in the 50s and I installed Rockwool when I remolded and my electric bill doesn't get over $150 in the summer and I live in the south.