Brazing is a great alternative to a wire feed welder. With proper surface prep and good flux, filler rod flows readily to fill cracks, holes, and voids. I've been brazing for 32 year's. Your content and quality is excellent Chuck. Jeff Davison. Saginaw, Michigan.
One of these days there maybe be some upgrades that make their way into my shop. Brazing would be way safer. It’s hard not to blow holes in the pipe with this little thing.
Second the brazing on pinholes, I'm a welder by trade but only in the last few years discovered the benefits of brazing or silver soldering, you will never go back to welding pinholes after using brazing
@show-me-the-details Pipe manufactures have used thus method for years for attaching brackets on pipes. Some utilize TIG also. I like the contrast of the Gold colored filler rod on the raw steel pipe. I'm old school I guess.
At first I thought you were over inflating your ability to remove those dents or were "on the pipe"... but I was wrong. You did a exhaustingly GR8T JOB! I've sent the naked virgins to your chambers, so be prepared for some serious 'tool expansion'. Thank you for the video. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd house on the left. (please call before stopping by) p.s. A very sub-worthy video
I've only done a handful of pipes doing almost exactly what you did here, however I've filled the pipe almost fully with water. You then orientate the pipe so the ding is at the highest point and the small amount of air in the pipe is under the ding. The idea is that it's the volume of compressed air that represents any safety risk, so if you only have a small amount of compressed air the pipe is still subjected to the same pressure but if something lets go the energy is dissipated very quickly and you're not creating any schrapnel. The only reason I've left a small air pocket in the pipe is to reduce the amount of cooling around the area that you're heating. Any commercial testing of a pressure vessel is always undertaken with a non compressible liquid (usually water) so that if something does let go it's a minor event, not an explosion.
Thanks for the hammer tip! I’ve been using the eBay tool and it’s probably saved me well over $1000 over the past year alone. Every hard enduro I come back from my pipe needs some love
Wear ear protection, if the plug blows out, it could get loud! Make sure there isn't a build up of raw gas in the pipe. Back in the day, I ran a supercharged car. Took it to the muffler shop to have an X pipe installed. When they cut a hole open with a torch, it lit the fumes and blew a backfire out the pipe. Spit carbon build up all on the shop walls.
Great video. Haven't owned a bike with an expansion pipe but enjoyed the video from a (how'd he do that) perspective. Interested to know how long it took you to get one of those dents out.
Try ditching the schrader valve for an air tool fitting. Then turn your shop airs regulated pressure down to 40psi. Now you can hook up the air line and leave it there while you're doing stuff and the pressure will stay the same leaks or not. I was doing what you're doing while boost leak testing but found it frustrating to pump up, check, pump up... back forth, back forth!
I use 80psi and it climbs to 110 with heat. I don't have a valve in the schrader fitting and just leave the hand pump connected for easy adjustment, it's only exploded once and it just blew the pump off the schrader and deformed the pipe a little.
@ChuckfromTrueTech thank you for your response back . My pipe has a few dents, and I did purchase the block off kit . I didn't know if I needed to get the inside of pipe clean when I do the repair this spring 2025
lol. I can’t justify spending a bunch on it. I’d love to have a TIG and a nicer jig set for this but the reality is I only do it a few times a year. This weld was particularly ugly but it’s the way it goes sometimes.
I've found that PRE-HEATING the surface of the pipe to be welded (to burn off the premix residue inside) makes for a MUCH easier and cleaner weld. I heat it to red hot with a MAP GAS torch, and then weld the pinhole (or crack) shut.. EASY !
Worrying about the effects of heat on an exhaust pipe seems rather silly, the heating and cooling every time you start and stop your bike is probably causing more deterioration than your heating it to get out the dents. It's amazing to watch the dents come out so easily with your method.
Do you have any experience doing this with the thicker guaged FMF Gnarly pipes? I can get normal wall pipes to work but never really the Gnarly. I have never dared over 50 psi cold though.
Oxy I said lanesearch safety pop off vi've seen a guy's pipe explode dude would never do it again but he didn't have any safety equipment and it can be dangerous
Had one done, guy said he uses a "jig" to hold it in shape? I don't know what he did?? but the pipe was bend completely out of shape so badly I couldn't fit it on the bike, had to buy a used one !!
You haven't noticed the difference with MAP(P) gas since the 'real' stuff hasn't existed since 2008 when the one and only place it was made went away. Stuff you get now is just barely glorified propane.
Get the hydro pump dent remover. Much safer for the average goon to use water pressure. Works great on non-stock ktm pipes…which are over priced and nobody is going to buy or have after the first one.
+1 on the Hydroforce. An ER visit is about $2500 an hour in the US😂. Kidding aside great post for dyi repairs Chuck. I use the Hydroforce and it works great but tends to straighten out or open the pipe curves on the cylinder end of the stock pipes. Fixing that I've used a heavy ratchet strap in a loop around the pipe to pull the pipe back in shape. I'd probably use a press if I had one. Is it the little ribs causing this? I hadn't considered that. Thanks Chuck!
I made a hand pump for using water to push dents out over 20 years ago. I was able to get almost 500 psi. The biggest problem was keeping the ends capped, but when they let go, they didn’t go flying.
Been searching for pipe dent repairs all week - really wanted this covered by yourself. Succinct and informative! Thanks
100 points awarded for using the word "succinct" in a comment about "Blowing Out Pipe Dents"
Brazing is a great alternative to a wire feed welder. With proper surface prep and good flux, filler rod flows readily to fill cracks, holes, and voids. I've been brazing for 32 year's.
Your content and quality is excellent Chuck.
Jeff Davison. Saginaw, Michigan.
One of these days there maybe be some upgrades that make their way into my shop. Brazing would be way safer. It’s hard not to blow holes in the pipe with this little thing.
Second the brazing on pinholes, I'm a welder by trade but only in the last few years discovered the benefits of brazing or silver soldering, you will never go back to welding pinholes after using brazing
@show-me-the-details Pipe manufactures have used thus method for years for attaching brackets on pipes. Some utilize TIG also. I like the contrast of the Gold colored filler rod on the raw steel pipe. I'm old school I guess.
At first I thought you were over inflating your ability to remove those dents or were "on the pipe"... but I was wrong. You did a exhaustingly GR8T JOB! I've sent the naked virgins to your chambers, so be prepared for some serious 'tool expansion'. Thank you for the video. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd house on the left. (please call before stopping by) p.s. A very sub-worthy video
I've only done a handful of pipes doing almost exactly what you did here, however I've filled the pipe almost fully with water.
You then orientate the pipe so the ding is at the highest point and the small amount of air in the pipe is under the ding.
The idea is that it's the volume of compressed air that represents any safety risk, so if you only have a small amount of compressed air the pipe is still subjected to the same pressure but if something lets go the energy is dissipated very quickly and you're not creating any schrapnel.
The only reason I've left a small air pocket in the pipe is to reduce the amount of cooling around the area that you're heating.
Any commercial testing of a pressure vessel is always undertaken with a non compressible liquid (usually water) so that if something does let go it's a minor event, not an explosion.
Thanks for the hammer tip! I’ve been using the eBay tool and it’s probably saved me well over $1000 over the past year alone. Every hard enduro I come back from my pipe needs some love
Wear ear protection, if the plug blows out, it could get loud! Make sure there isn't a build up of raw gas in the pipe. Back in the day, I ran a supercharged car. Took it to the muffler shop to have an X pipe installed. When they cut a hole open with a torch, it lit the fumes and blew a backfire out the pipe. Spit carbon build up all on the shop walls.
Great video! Sharing with my riding group.
Loved this video. I'm subscribing.
Great video. Haven't owned a bike with an expansion pipe but enjoyed the video from a (how'd he do that) perspective. Interested to know how long it took you to get one of those dents out.
Only a couple minutes once the pipe is pressurized.
Thank you for taking the time. Appreciated.
Thanks for this video
Try ditching the schrader valve for an air tool fitting. Then turn your shop airs regulated pressure down to 40psi. Now you can hook up the air line and leave it there while you're doing stuff and the pressure will stay the same leaks or not. I was doing what you're doing while boost leak testing but found it frustrating to pump up, check, pump up... back forth, back forth!
I use 80psi and it climbs to 110 with heat. I don't have a valve in the schrader fitting and just leave the hand pump connected for easy adjustment, it's only exploded once and it just blew the pump off the schrader and deformed the pipe a little.
Are you concerned about the oil or carbon inside of the pipe when heating it up with a torch ??
Nope.
@ChuckfromTrueTech thank you for your response back . My pipe has a few dents, and I did purchase the block off kit . I didn't know if I needed to get the inside of pipe clean when I do the repair this spring 2025
I made a jig for this, just like the commercial ones. The kx pipe I did I used 70psi. Came out great.
Thanks for the tips. Ive always heard 10 psig, no wonder it didnt get much in the way of results before.
haha I feel better about my welding setup and technique. Yours looks the same as mine!
lol. I can’t justify spending a bunch on it. I’d love to have a TIG and a nicer jig set for this but the reality is I only do it a few times a year. This weld was particularly ugly but it’s the way it goes sometimes.
I've found that PRE-HEATING the surface of the pipe to be welded (to burn off the premix residue inside) makes for a MUCH easier and cleaner weld.
I heat it to red hot with a MAP GAS torch, and then weld the pinhole (or crack) shut.. EASY !
Thanks Chuck!
Worrying about the effects of heat on an exhaust pipe seems rather silly, the heating and cooling every time you start and stop your bike is probably causing more deterioration than your heating it to get out the dents. It's amazing to watch the dents come out so easily with your method.
Do a 4 stroke header.
Oops 😬 meant hot 🔥🥵
Great job 👍🏻
Do you have any experience doing this with the thicker guaged FMF Gnarly pipes?
I can get normal wall pipes to work but never really the Gnarly. I have never dared over 50 psi cold though.
Yep. Done lots. Crank it up!
Oxy I said lanesearch safety pop off vi've seen a guy's pipe explode dude would never do it again but he didn't have any safety equipment and it can be dangerous
Cool
Would this work on a header pipe (street bike)?
Yep.
Had one done, guy said he uses a "jig" to hold it in shape? I don't know what he did?? but the pipe was bend completely out of shape so badly I couldn't fit it on the bike, had to buy a used one !!
I can sometimes tweak them in the vice but once they’re hard to install you’re on borrowed time.
I very seen a pipe blow up. It is dangerous
2:15 rocket surgery! Nobody catches it when I say that.
You haven't noticed the difference with MAP(P) gas since the 'real' stuff hasn't existed since 2008 when the one and only place it was made went away. Stuff you get now is just barely glorified propane.
Fire
Get the hydro pump dent remover. Much safer for the average goon to use water pressure. Works great on non-stock ktm pipes…which are over priced and nobody is going to buy or have after the first one.
At over $600 the last time I checked, the value proposition shrinks fast.
+1 on the Hydroforce. An ER visit is about $2500 an hour in the US😂. Kidding aside great post for dyi repairs Chuck. I use the Hydroforce and it works great but tends to straighten out or open the pipe curves on the cylinder end of the stock pipes. Fixing that I've used a heavy ratchet strap in a loop around the pipe to pull the pipe back in shape. I'd probably use a press if I had one. Is it the little ribs causing this? I hadn't considered that. Thanks Chuck!
I made a hand pump for using water to push dents out over 20 years ago. I was able to get almost 500 psi. The biggest problem was keeping the ends capped, but when they let go, they didn’t go flying.
A little common sense goes a long way with thus type of stuff.
Water + freezer
Nothing new.
Or use a power washer.
Hydro forming . 👍