Thanks for watching! As always, if you have any questions, drop them down below. Be sure to LIKE & SUBSCRIBE for more great content. Update! Here are the results after 1 month: ua-cam.com/users/shorts8JDrn0yW95E?si=s9ImiKX2R7kTMJRT
Man your lawn looks great! Too bad about the washout. Irrigreen is an amazing invention but I guess nothing is perfect. I did a partial lawn renovation this year. Doesn’t look half as good as yours.
I’m about ready to do the same, used the 5 iron acouple mouths ago here in Oregon , looks decent but that heat wave wasn’t good . Just got my soil test back and adjusting and will over seed end of month
@@TheLawngineer definitely not , but I am surprised that it’s hanging in there . Im excited to start the new journey of overseed . This is my first lawn and followed your videos on it
I just did our yard using a gas-powered Dethatcher and slice seeder. First, I sprayed the yard with Roundup for Lawns to kill the weeds. Waited for the weeds to die and then dethatched and slice seeded using Scotts Turf Builder Sun & Shade mix. I was also going to do peat moss, but after some additional investigation, I found some recommendations for not using peat moss because it does not decompose well, and we have a high water table here. Well, we had mixed results. The grass that came up is far too spotty for the amount of grass seed I put down, and we had two perfect weeks of weather and watered enough each day to keep everything moist. Fount out the Scotts seed I used, which has 50% seed and 50% fertilizer, and the Scotts Rapid Seed Sun & Shade, which is 70% grass seed and 30% fertilizer. Hum is thinking 50% of the seed might be the issue. I went over the areas twice using the slice seeder, crisscrossing on high settings. I used four 16lb bags of seed on an existing lawn that is about 15,000 square feet. Scotts said not to add fertilizer as it is with the grass seed and to wait to apply Step 4 a bit later after the seed has been taken. Now I have to go over it again with the Rapid Seed!
It wouldn't hurt to also spray a fungicide and PGR while spraying the tenacity. There will be a lot of watering going on so fungus could still be a problem. Also you won't be mowing for 3 -6 weeks, depending on the grass type, so the PGR helps. I wait till the seed germinates to put down any starter to prevent growth of existing turf, although that is optional.
I would suggest not applying PGR and fungicide at the same time. Fungicide can stunt grass a little bit anyway, so applying both at the same time can really stunt your old grass. I did an application in my front yard which is Tall fescue and KBG. The PGR ( half rate) and fungicide knocked back the KBG like crazy and I was fighting most of the summer to get it back to the level of the tall fescue so it could compete. I have heard that propiconazole can help with establishment after the grass has germinated and reached about an inch or so check the label for details, but that's why I think applying it with PGR is probably not great as its like a double dose of PGR. I imagine it prevents root rot but also slows down the top growth getting the new seed to form roots and begin to tiller. I'd recommend applying the PGR at seeding time with the tenacity then waiting a few weeks and once the germination has started moving and things are filling in, then hit it with Propiconazole. I tried Prop earlier this year on a small section once the seed was an inch or two tall and it really began to fill out nicely
Just curious what became of your Poa problem. Looks like I see some brighter green patches. Trying myself to tackel Poa Triv with Velocity. Did you manage to eradicate it before overseeding?
Thx for the tips. I’LL be overseeding in Oct when it’s in the 70’s. Questions: can I use the scarify/Sun joe instead of renting a core aerator? do I use half the amt of seeds then what I did last year a full renovation? And after the fertilizer I want apply humic acid - can I add the tenacity with the humic acid in my hose end sprayer?
@@sethi100 core aerating is much different than scarifying. Pulling deep cores will help reduce compaction (I failed to mention that in this video). If you can stick a screwdriver in the ground with ease, then you probably don’t need to core aerate. The scarifying might be a good alternative in that case. Humic acid is great! Go for it… but tenacity should not be applied in a hose end sprayer.
Last weekend I scalped mine as low as I could, basically tried to kill off my existing grass as much as possible. Seeded Fireball and Hat Trick and I rolled it with a 250 lb roller.
How can anybody plant new grass seed, and don't water it daily? If the grass seed doesn't get any water, it's not going to germinate. The seeds are going to dry up and die, if the birds don't eat them first.
@@slimdude2011 🤷♂️ water is essential. So many people miss that part. A lot of folks I talk to rely on the weather to provide the water. Some get lucky, but most are unsuccessful.
After doing this, I was struggling with a flock of birds that wouldn’t leave the lawn alone. Finally had to buy some crop cover and lay it down. Nothing else was effective.
Dethatching is important only in cases where thatch is an issue. If, after cutting the lawn to a low height, you can see the ground, you don’t need to dethatch.
If you have dead grass, like his dead spots then it is necessary. Also helps to expose dirt throughout. It doesn't mean there is a t hatch problem, but need bare dirt.
Thanks for watching! As always, if you have any questions, drop them down below. Be sure to LIKE & SUBSCRIBE for more great content. Update! Here are the results after 1 month: ua-cam.com/users/shorts8JDrn0yW95E?si=s9ImiKX2R7kTMJRT
Short, simple & straight to the point! Love it!
Pretty house and yard. Great tips! Hope we get a before and after of the lawn after all that hard work. Thanks for the info. 👍
@@twilson377 will definitely give an update
Man your lawn looks great! Too bad about the washout. Irrigreen is an amazing invention but I guess nothing is perfect. I did a partial lawn renovation this year. Doesn’t look half as good as yours.
Thanks! I should have done a better job with keeping the seed down and protected. Gonna work on that this weekend.
I’m about ready to do the same, used the 5 iron acouple mouths ago here in Oregon , looks decent but that heat wave wasn’t good . Just got my soil test back and adjusting and will over seed end of month
@@Issac_G same here… it does not like the heat.
@@TheLawngineer definitely not , but I am surprised that it’s hanging in there . Im excited to start the new journey of overseed . This is my first lawn and followed your videos on it
I just did our yard using a gas-powered Dethatcher and slice seeder. First, I sprayed the yard with Roundup for Lawns to kill the weeds. Waited for the weeds to die and then dethatched and slice seeded using Scotts Turf Builder Sun & Shade mix. I was also going to do peat moss, but after some additional investigation, I found some recommendations for not using peat moss because it does not decompose well, and we have a high water table here. Well, we had mixed results. The grass that came up is far too spotty for the amount of grass seed I put down, and we had two perfect weeks of weather and watered enough each day to keep everything moist. Fount out the Scotts seed I used, which has 50% seed and 50% fertilizer, and the Scotts Rapid Seed Sun & Shade, which is 70% grass seed and 30% fertilizer. Hum is thinking 50% of the seed might be the issue. I went over the areas twice using the slice seeder, crisscrossing on high settings. I used four 16lb bags of seed on an existing lawn that is about 15,000 square feet. Scotts said not to add fertilizer as it is with the grass seed and to wait to apply Step 4 a bit later after the seed has been taken. Now I have to go over it again with the Rapid Seed!
Hope this works out for you. The slice seeder is a good way to get great seed to soil contact. Keep it watered and it should come out great!
looks like you put rye over fescue am I correct? how did it work?
The front yard is 100% perennial rye. I haven’t done a renovation in the back, but have overseeded with fescue ever since moving in.
It wouldn't hurt to also spray a fungicide and PGR while spraying the tenacity. There will be a lot of watering going on so fungus could still be a problem. Also you won't be mowing for 3 -6 weeks, depending on the grass type, so the PGR helps. I wait till the seed germinates to put down any starter to prevent growth of existing turf, although that is optional.
Good idea. Thanks for sharing! I have some propiconazole in the garage… gonna put some down.
I would suggest not applying PGR and fungicide at the same time. Fungicide can stunt grass a little bit anyway, so applying both at the same time can really stunt your old grass. I did an application in my front yard which is Tall fescue and KBG. The PGR ( half rate) and fungicide knocked back the KBG like crazy and I was fighting most of the summer to get it back to the level of the tall fescue so it could compete.
I have heard that propiconazole can help with establishment after the grass has germinated and reached about an inch or so check the label for details, but that's why I think applying it with PGR is probably not great as its like a double dose of PGR. I imagine it prevents root rot but also slows down the top growth getting the new seed to form roots and begin to tiller. I'd recommend applying the PGR at seeding time with the tenacity then waiting a few weeks and once the germination has started moving and things are filling in, then hit it with Propiconazole. I tried Prop earlier this year on a small section once the seed was an inch or two tall and it really began to fill out nicely
Sharing with my buddy - thanks! Any difference for a newly established lawn (established two summers ago).
Overseeding is an annual thing for us.
Just curious what became of your Poa problem. Looks like I see some brighter green patches. Trying myself to tackel Poa Triv with Velocity. Did you manage to eradicate it before overseeding?
@@gregoryutter3750 I don’t think I did. I talked a little bit more about it here:
ua-cam.com/users/shortssbIOin8xTbw?feature=share
Thx for the tips. I’LL be overseeding in Oct when it’s in the 70’s. Questions: can I use the scarify/Sun joe instead of renting a core aerator? do I use half the amt of seeds then what I did last year a full renovation? And after the fertilizer I want apply humic acid - can I add the tenacity with the humic acid in my hose end sprayer?
@@sethi100 core aerating is much different than scarifying. Pulling deep cores will help reduce compaction (I failed to mention that in this video). If you can stick a screwdriver in the ground with ease, then you probably don’t need to core aerate. The scarifying might be a good alternative in that case.
Humic acid is great! Go for it… but tenacity should not be applied in a hose end sprayer.
@@TheLawngineer thx. Just tried the screw driver test. Goes in like butter. LOL.
What do you do with the cores? Do you leave them on the ground?
Leave them. They will break down in about a week or so.
@@TheLawngineer Got it. Thank you
Last weekend I scalped mine as low as I could, basically tried to kill off my existing grass as much as possible. Seeded Fireball and Hat Trick and I rolled it with a 250 lb roller.
@@matthodel946 it’s gonna look amazing!
@@TheLawngineer you're looks amazing already. This is a fun hobby! Subscribed
@@matthodel946 thanks and welcome to the channel! Any questions, let me know.
What height setting did you use on the sun Joe?
@@rickjames1246 all the way bottomed out. As low as it would go. We used an earthwise dethatcher, but I would assume the settings are similar.
Did the Tenacity herbicide bleach out your entire lawn after 10 days?
It’s getting there. We are one week in since seeding.
How can anybody plant new grass seed, and don't water it daily? If the grass seed doesn't get any water, it's not going to germinate. The seeds are going to dry up and die, if the birds don't eat them first.
@@slimdude2011 🤷♂️ water is essential. So many people miss that part. A lot of folks I talk to rely on the weather to provide the water. Some get lucky, but most are unsuccessful.
After doing this, I was struggling with a flock of birds that wouldn’t leave the lawn alone. Finally had to buy some crop cover and lay it down. Nothing else was effective.
@@patrickkeschl596 what kind of cover did you buy?
@@TheLawngineer It was suggested by TurfMechanic
Having the same thing, only squirrels are my problem. Wrecking my whole top dressing/ leveling project 😠
@@J.A.B..E we have the same thing happening… they are burying their nuts for winter. Not much we can do about it.
Dethatching is important only in cases where thatch is an issue. If, after cutting the lawn to a low height, you can see the ground, you don’t need to dethatch.
@@dalewiley9208 agreed
If you have dead grass, like his dead spots then it is necessary. Also helps to expose dirt throughout. It doesn't mean there is a t hatch problem, but need bare dirt.
@@jasonfournierThis guy renovates