We set our time to go averaging period to 0. We found that there wasn't enough switches on the boat, or loads that turn on and off enough to worry about averaging. It was skewing our "how much time left" numbers. By setting it to 0, it's instant. If we're headed to sleep, we shut off everything we don't need and the "time left" number changes immediately to show us that we have at least 10 hours remaining.
You mention at the 4:07 mark that the bilge pump doesn't draw any power unless taking on water. That is not the case, at least with our 2020 R-23. The bilge pumps are electronic and will cycle on every minute or so to check for water. While the draw might be rather small, it will drain the battery over the course of a few months if, for example, one does not disconnect the batteries during the winter storage months.
Correct. If you are not connected to shore power or solar for long periods of time, it will kill your batteries. I should have said it doesn’t draw any power except during the brief spin up every few minutes to check for water.
I know it’s been 2 yrs and u prob have the answer but my Resmed bi pap machine requires 3.75 amp DC @24 VDC (90 watts). At home I run it with the supplied AC to DC power brick. You can buy a DC to DC converter cord for it. So for the boat I was thinking it would be more efficient to run this way at 7.5 amp @ 12 V from the cigarette lighter socket which I believe is 10A max. Still battery cost is about 60 Ah for 8 hrs of decent sleep. 😴
The shunt appears to be pretty robust. The monitor gauge is not sealed on the back and I’m not sure if the internal components have a conformal coating or not. I would not put the rear of the gauge in a wet environment.
VERY helpful, Dave - thank you! We plan this to be our first owner mod with a 2022 C248. Question: I installed this system in our trailer and, with a LOT of effort, mounted the display so it could easily be seen. Then I later installed a Victron solar controller (no display) and solar panel, which forced me to use my phone via BT. That left me wishing I would have simply mounted the display where it was easy and use my phone for everything! In retrospect, especially given your 712 display's location down in the 'cave', what would you be losing if not mounting the display where you can access it visually? Any thoughts about where the display might be mounted that's easier than where you did? And that's a very clever idea to mount a spare phone adjacent to the helm. Exactly where I would put the 712 except it would be hard to locate there.
I can honestly say the only time I’ve ever touched the display gauge was when I tie-wrapped it temporarily during the initial install and when I permanently mounted it in on the electrical panel. I don’t think I’ve ever pushed a button on it. The phone at the helm comes in handy for the Victron app, Garmin ActiveCaptain, and navigation apps. We also used it for the Nebo app before we installed NeboLink.
@@CruisingElvinRay Yup, what I suspected. Assuming it is located out of the 'wet', I'm inclined to put the monitor where it's easy to mount. I was very impressed with the Victron app. Thanks for these replies, Dave.
There is a thing called DC Current Transducers that can be used instead of Shunt to monitors Current it look similar to Dc Current Transformer. I.e no open contracts.
Hey! Great vids and channel. 👍🏼😎 How do you guys make hot water during one of your extended stays out away from shore power. Do you run the water heater off the inverter while underway with engine alternator helping to recharge? Or is using a portable gen the only way?
@@brrrett1Thanks. Yes, that prop turns vid is a good one. 👍👍 One thing I found out is that on my boat R25OB the parallel switch connects to engine battery to the thruster not the house battery. Also, the house batteries on my R25 are charged by the engine aux charging wire and not via an ACR from the engine battery , so no need to trick the ACR while using big water heater load.
@@brrrett1 Yes, apparently it’s the R27 and R23, The R25 is different in that it has 4 battery switches together on panel instead of 3 with the parallel between the engine and thruster. But, like I said the important point which makes the parallel moot on an R25 is that the engine and house batteries (My boat has 3 house batts) are charged directly from the alternator via the normal and aux charging leads. So, no need to trick/bypass an ACR to charge the house battery while using high watt load underway. Why R25 is different I don’t know???
We set our time to go averaging period to 0. We found that there wasn't enough switches on the boat, or loads that turn on and off enough to worry about averaging. It was skewing our "how much time left" numbers. By setting it to 0, it's instant. If we're headed to sleep, we shut off everything we don't need and the "time left" number changes immediately to show us that we have at least 10 hours remaining.
I’ll definitely give that a try.
yes BMV 712 is great, but I would move the bilge pump behind it, shunts don't fail.
You mention at the 4:07 mark that the bilge pump doesn't draw any power unless taking on water. That is not the case, at least with our 2020 R-23. The bilge pumps are electronic and will cycle on every minute or so to check for water. While the draw might be rather small, it will drain the battery over the course of a few months if, for example, one does not disconnect the batteries during the winter storage months.
Correct. If you are not connected to shore power or solar for long periods of time, it will kill your batteries. I should have said it doesn’t draw any power except during the brief spin up every few minutes to check for water.
What's the wattage draw on the BMV for a CPAP machine? Also, does the CPAP run on AC power requiring the inverter, or does it also plug in via 12v DC?
I will check and let you know. We have travel CPAPs in the boat, but they are AC powered.
I know it’s been 2 yrs and u prob have the answer but my Resmed bi pap machine requires 3.75 amp DC @24 VDC (90 watts). At home I run it with the supplied AC to DC power brick. You can buy a DC to DC converter cord for it. So for the boat I was thinking it would be more efficient to run this way at 7.5 amp @ 12 V from the cigarette lighter socket which I believe is 10A max. Still battery cost is about 60 Ah for 8 hrs of decent sleep. 😴
Hey there. Is the back of the monitor sealed and if not, is there a concern about getting moisture in the ports?
The shunt appears to be pretty robust. The monitor gauge is not sealed on the back and I’m not sure if the internal components have a conformal coating or not. I would not put the rear of the gauge in a wet environment.
VERY helpful, Dave - thank you! We plan this to be our first owner mod with a 2022 C248. Question: I installed this system in our trailer and, with a LOT of effort, mounted the display so it could easily be seen. Then I later installed a Victron solar controller (no display) and solar panel, which forced me to use my phone via BT. That left me wishing I would have simply mounted the display where it was easy and use my phone for everything! In retrospect, especially given your 712 display's location down in the 'cave', what would you be losing if not mounting the display where you can access it visually? Any thoughts about where the display might be mounted that's easier than where you did? And that's a very clever idea to mount a spare phone adjacent to the helm. Exactly where I would put the 712 except it would be hard to locate there.
I can honestly say the only time I’ve ever touched the display gauge was when I tie-wrapped it temporarily during the initial install and when I permanently mounted it in on the electrical panel. I don’t think I’ve ever pushed a button on it.
The phone at the helm comes in handy for the Victron app, Garmin ActiveCaptain, and navigation apps. We also used it for the Nebo app before we installed NeboLink.
@@CruisingElvinRay Yup, what I suspected. Assuming it is located out of the 'wet', I'm inclined to put the monitor where it's easy to mount. I was very impressed with the Victron app. Thanks for these replies, Dave.
There is a thing called DC Current Transducers that can be used instead of Shunt to monitors Current it look similar to Dc Current Transformer. I.e no open contracts.
Hey! Great vids and channel. 👍🏼😎 How do you guys make hot water during one of your extended stays out away from shore power. Do you run the water heater off the inverter while underway with engine alternator helping to recharge? Or is using a portable gen the only way?
Check the Ranger Tugs "As the Prop Turns" on power management. Andrew Custis describes how to use your inverter to heat water underway.
@@brrrett1Thanks. Yes, that prop turns vid is a good one. 👍👍 One thing I found out is that on my boat R25OB the parallel switch connects to engine battery to the thruster not the house battery. Also, the house batteries on my R25 are charged by the engine aux charging wire and not via an ACR from the engine battery , so no need to trick the ACR while using big water heater load.
@@UrjunkMygold Thanks for the charging clarification. The video says the starter and house are paralleled by the switch. That must be r27 specific.
@@brrrett1 Yes, apparently it’s the R27 and R23, The R25 is different in that it has 4 battery switches together on panel instead of 3 with the parallel between the engine and thruster. But, like I said the important point which makes the parallel moot on an R25 is that the engine and house batteries (My boat has 3 house batts) are charged directly from the alternator via the normal and aux charging leads. So, no need to trick/bypass an ACR to charge the house battery while using high watt load underway. Why R25 is different I don’t know???
How many Amps is your busbar?
250 Amps
@@CruisingElvinRay Got a link to the bus bar that you used?