Making a Concrete Fire Pit the Right Way || Ultimate Fire Pit Build
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- I’m Making a Concrete Fire Pit the Right Way. Check out the Ultimate Fire Pit Build. The first 1000 people to use this link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: [skl.sh/bourbon...
Merchandise & Plans: www.bourbonmot...
Patreon Page: / bourbonmothwoodworking
Cameo: www.cameo.com/b...
Instagram: / bourbonmoth
Links below to tools and supplies:
3M Cubitron Sandpaper: lddy.no/1hset
Fire Bricks: amzn.to/3ccHiRx
Metal Fire Ring: amzn.to/3uTjLLX
Eye Protection: amzn.to/2LmqOMA
Square: amzn.to/2tiTPQr
Drill & Driver amzn.to/2xyJPEo
Festool Dust Extractor: amzn.to/32hgBpo
Festool Chop Saw: amzn.to/31fbsx0
ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection (10% off code- BOURBONMOTH10) bit.ly/Bourbon...
Bits & Bits Precision Cutting Tools (10% off code- BOURBONBITS)
bitsbits.com/r...
RZ Mask (15% off code: BOURBONMOTH15)
www.awin1.com/c...
Total Boat Epoxy: (10% coupon code TOTALMOTH) www.totalboat.com
Nicks Handmade Boots: bit.ly/3vZ8uMR
Firm Grip Work Gloves: thd.co/3LEO5TE
PowerPro Fasteners: amzn.to/3u3Mgtj
Pony Jorgensen Clamps: bit.ly/3knr9fZ
Spec Ops Hammer: amzn.to/3fMjAOd
Spec Ops Tape Measure: amzn.to/3w1M788
Spec Ops Pry Bar: amzn.to/2Ro3iC2
Spec Ops Chisels: amzn.to/3ga8kKv
Spec Ops Screw Drivers: amzn.to/3ciV8ls
Spec ops utility Knife: amzn.to/3g5ysWZ
Grizzly Tools:
Table Saw: amzn.to/2FBGs3q
Jointer: amzn.to/3aFYSM2
Planer: amzn.to/31cZAxa
Dust Collector: amzn.to/3l4rJOQ
Air Filtration: amzn.to/32pHx6r
Band Saw: amzn.to/32dEdea
Drill Press: amzn.to/31hzFEF
Lathe: amzn.to/2EiNolB
Man made his geometry teacher proud.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Former concrete guy here. I did residential construction in Florida and we'd spray our forms with oil to get them to release easier from the slabs. The other little trick is that you can fill screw holes or nail holes with petroleum jelly for exposed surfaces that you don't want to see fasteners. You can also cover seams with clear packing tape and get a smooth finish.
Wonder if its still there.
Great tips. For the inner circle, it doesn't matter what you would coat it with because the direction to pull to release the forms is a reverse circle and geometrically doesn't allow it to release. Sort of like the Chinese finger traps.
What was the company? I am in orlando and would love to hire someone to do this
@@garrettsanford5683 Carpenter Contractors of America.
I was a roadway worker on the I-4 project and then worked on the runways at OIA. You're exactly right. Using form oil, even on wood, will make them fall right off after the concrete dries enough.
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
damn, when he put the premade fire ring insert in, it went straight from a 6 to a 10.
i agree. pretty interesting to see a little detail make a big difference.
Ohh mogawty
I guess the algorithm brought the Genshin players here?? I have no manuel skills what so ever and won't ever make something like that but it was great to watch lol
I’m so glad you researched this. My concrete friend (contractor....he wasn’t made of concrete) made one that was solid concrete on the bottom and it exploded shooting big chunks of concrete 40’ in the air like a cannon. He had his daughters Girl Scout sleep over that night. They called the kids inside for pizza and a few minutes later it blew the bottom out. Some large pieces went over the house and landed out front. Someone was watching over them that night that’s for sure!
I call bullshit.
This happened to me as well. nobody got burned but a few chairs had holes put in them.
Why do you call bullshit Nathan? You do know concrete explodes when extreme heat is consistently applied right? Try google buddy. There’s even videos on YT of it happening.
@@nathansmith22 Of course you do, cause you have no idea what your talking about. Your just talking. Concrete always has water in cavities within the concrete if left outside. It soaks in. That makes steam. What does steam do when it can't get out? Basic science there scooter. You just had to say something though.
Yes all concrete has air in it exterior concrete has at least 2 to 3 times more air into the mix so when it heats up it will explode
The interior part, I would not have bothered removing.... just light a fire in it and let it burn 😂
I was thinking the same thing
Exactly what I was thinking
I think he just said, “Dooooooooh!”
Thats what we did. Worked like a charm
Same !!!
As this was a DiY project, a follow up on how it's holding up in a few years would be great.
He just did an update video
I’m just jealous of the grass
How did the grass look so good during the complete build. ????????
That's due to all the rain in the Pacific Northwest. Grass grows like crazy here but you can't always find a dry day to cut (mow) the lawn between rainy days. It's always a crapshoot till after the 4th of July!
@@BigHeinen That sir is a true story. The last couple months have been fair to great for a mow in between sun and rain lol
@@BigHeinen And then it all turns brown until it starts raining again
Unless it’s Astro ?
It'll be interesting to know later if the concrete form cracks after the first fire. I had a firepit built out of stone with mortar and it cracked not only the mortar joints but the limestone two piece top. My firepit builder used a steel ring insert tight up against the stone and the heat caused the ring to expand, thus cracking the mortar and a couple of stones. My fix was to buy a steel insert that was smaller than the pit diameter by 1.5" all around. I also filled that void with mineral pour insulation to reduce thermal shock. My insert has a large enough lip to cover the void. I think your insert should be at least 1" smaller then your form to prevent contact between the steel insert and the inside of your form to prevent steel expansion from pushing out your form.
This right here is a great point - should be voted up
@@gabrielh.2506 Or do what I did by not allowing a flush steel ring up against the stone to expand as it gets hot by replacing with a full depth steel insert with a smaller diameter packed with pour mineral insulation in between the insert and stone. Much easier than lining with firebrick after the pit was built. That has worked now for many years.
@@JJ-fd2ob The calculation for a 48" steel ring (my pit) is an expansion of almost 1/2" when the temp rises by 1000F. A 3" ring will expand by 1/3". If a ring is mortared to the brick, stone or concrete, the pit will crack.
@@bobbray9666 what about using a fire rated mortar instead of concrete. Like what they'd use for chimneys?
@@driver902 If you use a steel ring, which I suppose the purpose of it is to protect the concrete from flaking away, you'd still have expansion of the steel under heat up against concrete whether it be refractory cement or not. The expanded steel will either push out and crack to concrete or just warp if the concrete doesn't give way. Better to insert a slightly small diameter steel ring to allow for the expansion when hot.
@6:13 Jason: “I bought $2M worth of 2x4s”
Scrap 2x4s in the corner: “Do we mean nothing to you?”
Would have only been $1M worth in 2019...
He broke my heart pulling that stunt..and he call himself a wood worker lol
A single 2x4x8 is $8.50 at my local Lowe's right now
@@johnettipio 10.97 up here in canada.
I'm glad that I'm not the only person to see that. So I came to the comments to check, and here we are.
Your cleaning operation was impeccable throughout the entire project. Clean as you go, makes the job site so much easier. Beautiful work good sir, I might do this myself. I'll save a double of Woodford for you after I finish mine
"im not renting a concrete mixer" said by everyone... once! lol
Until you mix concrete by hand, everyone says that!
@@multidinero I had to use a shovel and wheelbarrow for the whole time I was doing fences and decks lol .
@@ramsaybolton9151 as a Finish Carpenter, I watch those guys from inside and ask the age old question.....
“Where’s that guy’s mixer?”
@@multidinero You should ask " Who's the mixer " instead lmao
@@ramsaybolton9151 Same. I am both cheap and a glutton for punishment.
Always remember, when using wood for forms, always spray with diesel or form oil. This helps the wood release from cured concrete...in all reality, you did very well. I do this all the time and can say you did better than most. Another hint, is, when it is curing, if it is hot outside, keep everything sprayed down and wet. This gets a better cure that is less likely to "dry out" and crack. Concrete does NOT dry. It cures. The end project is pretty amazing. As for your inside form, you should have burned it out...after all, this is a fire pit...
Came to the comments to see if I was the only one thinking he should have just burned it out. Lol
Never spray with diesel
Use any oil. Even vegetable.
@MACizera it breaks down concrete compound so the layer touching the Crete will degrade much faster.
But the real issue is why not use canola oil. (Form oil works) and not hurt the environment?
@MACizera form oil is mineral oil.
You can just buy that it's best.
@@thenarrator1984 Totally agree.
When making inner circles for that make one little piece shaped as a V with the V point to the concrete, then you will easily pull it and have some room to pull the rest
It's even easier than that. The one little piece doesn't even need to be v-shaped. He could have done the 3 pieces as he did (or even only 2) but between two of them he could have put in a piece of 2 by 4 (or something similar with two parallel sides) which you can knock out first towards the inside. Then you have some wiggle room to loosen and take out the other pieces. Could even have worked with the whole circle as one piece cut open in one place plus a 2 by 4 or 4 by 4 inserted.
@@TheBackdrafter80 well you just crushed my two years of overthinking and overdoing simple stuff :D
@@samuelsilva8364 you're welcome. 😀
Bro... Your commentary was on point. You could narrate other people's videos and I would binge watch it.
Great job. Just wanted to mention, when looking for filler material for concrete, a good option is gravel. One or two shuvels per bag. Mix together, works great. Diesel is used the most often for keeping the concrete off the forms. Concrete work is unique in the way we have to consider wrecking the forms conveniently. City water drains is a good example.
Great build, been working with forms 25 years, yours was excellent. For future reference there is a product, wiggle board that is made for forming curves.
He could have just used hardboard also, cheap and comes in 4 x 8' sheets.
I’ve done this same concept before and I can confirm it defiantly explodes
Gotta be the right mix brother
Wouldn't be an explosion of if it was meek. It has to be defiant.
I have a small charcoal fired forge. It’s a used helium tank with the top cut out, a piece of 1/2” iron pipe in the side to blow so air and sackrete I bought from Lowe’s. It did not explode and it hasn’t really even pitted with probably 100 hours of use at temps high enough not only to forge but to actually melt steel
That's really dangerous, the concrete explodes. Doing this is not safe at all.
@@marciaccalas5799 it's actually more like a vigorous cracking you might lose an eye under the exact wrong circumstances but it isn't the end of the world.
when you pulled the forms off and smiled back at the camera I let out the biggest smile man. I was so happy for you for all the work put in. We just bought a new house and property this last year and Im anxious to build a firepit area. Getting ideas and found your channel. Subbed!
You said you did not know anything about building a Boat and you rocked that out, so I'm going to bet this will rock too. (Let's watch and find out )
The foreman is adorable bud, you are doing it right. Teaching the youngins skills is what will keep this world going around.
....it’ll start to crack after not many fires and need replaced. The youngins aren’t being taught right with this and no foresight.
When doing a inside form, I cut angles 45-Degrees so the inside round form can spiral right out. But you did a good job!
I loved these forms. He did such a stellar job, especially on the first try, and you can't stop concrete from shrinking but your idea is awesome.
For a guy that dont know what he's doing with concrete, you sure made it look good. Would I have done it differently? Parts of it, Yes, but it turned out really nice. Overall, I'd give it a 9.5. Well done.
Do you work with concrete regularly? If so, what would you have done differently?
would have added sand and small pebbles to the concrete mix for starters.. makes it a lot more durable and less brittle..
“Like the moron I am, I just persevered” A statement I can sadly relate to.
Great job Jason, and your foreman did a good job also! The metal ring turned it into an elegant project instead of just acceptably good.
Honestly, this was really well done. Couple things I would have done differently.
1. If you had mitered the edges of your interior forms you'd have much less pressure pushing them together, and would have been able to remove the forms intact.
2. I would have poured a pad first. The weight of that ring will likely have it settling into the dirt over time, especially after rain. The pad would also have made interior form removal easier.
Going to implement this in my yard though, great idea 👍
I bought some column tubes from a specialty hardware store, they laughed when I said I needed two feet of the different diameters! I was like, it's for a fire pit, and they were like, that's genius. The tubes are typically used for pouring freeway bridges or something.
How did that end up working?
They actually sold short Pieces?
This is the correct way to pour a firepit! no need to trace a circle
Watching this just confirmed that yanking that old wringer washer tub out of the metal dump and setting it up as my fire pit was the right decision! 😂
I used an old tractor rim and cut the center hub out...
Its so wide that i can throw 3 entire wood pallets in it!
😆 🤣 😂
@@garyhaber333 hell yeah!!!! I love me some good ole southern ingenuity/engineering
DUDE SAFETY!! Concrete can detonate when exposed to fire. My sister lost her eye and had three teeth smashed out when the fire that was on a concrete base detonated. It's the trapped water turning to steam, then expanding. Stay safe - do your research on concrete / fire explosive failure, great skills in the video man tho.
Thats why he put in the fire brick on the interior part of the concrete
Dude... You didn't watch the video did you?
@@averystrawn9819 You've never seen concrete explode before, it Doesn't explode by direct contact from fire it explodes from water trapped inside air pockets evaporating causing pressure build up Doesn't have to be direct heat lmao.
Concrete can be safe as long as you allow allotted time for it to cure . Me personally would have lined the firebrick the proper way around the inside.
It May last 100 years it may cure and then get rained on trapping water and frag, Id rather be safe If I'm investing that much money into a fire pit.
Do your research bud concrete takes 42 days to fully cure that means all moisture is gone green concrete is the few hours before it dries to the normal white color and by vibrating your separate cream from aggregate every thing he did ensured proper safety the only thing he could’ve done better would’ve been to mix in fiber
@@jake_god_of_sleep6564 Concrete is most effective and stronger when it still got moister in it, Once it's dried out over time and age it will crack and get rained on if its an outdoor concrete.
Concrete even fully cured can soak up more water retaining it. Concrete poured directly on the ground without a barrier can still absorb moisture through the ground.
The more you know lmao
As I stated before it could last 100 years with a fire or 10 days depends on his climate humidity and so forth. as I myself don't need to do research I come from a family of brick layers and concrete drivers who own a concrete business in VA. I am well versed in the what and what nots of concrete.
I have never built a fire pit. But I have poured some manhole collars. On the internal ring we placed wooded wedges Knock the wedges out the internal ring comes right out..
You have been given a "bloke in his shed " award. It hold's a lot of value in Britain, kudos to you and for going for it.
I worked in concrete, asphalt, sand & gravel for my career (the college engineering diploma sits in a box in the closet) and I have to say that was a very nice looking job when finished. The only thing I would have suggested was making the foreman do more work 🤣
Damn, that lawn looks like a tank rolled over it.
😂😂😂😂😂
So are we all just gonna ignore his supernatural ability to raise the garage door without touching it? Dude.
This is the advanced version of opening the grocery store door by waving your hand at it
From someone who's done concrete for over 30 years, you did pretty well. The only thing I might've done differently would've been the inside form. I would have angled them so they slid right out.
or just light a fire and burn it for a few years!!
Nah just burn it. I agree though . :)
@@SVW1976 burn fresh concrete? It hasn't set yet. It takes at least 3 weeks but the thickness of this will take a lot longer. Burning the forms out can damage the concrete.
When you said, "I didn't know what I was doing", I thought that was pretty obvious earlier when you said, "I didn't want to rent a mixer.
"I don't feel like renting a concrete mixer"
A hard lesson is gonna be learned today!
I bought a used concrete mixer so I never have to mix concrete by hand ever again.
I bought a used one to do a project with the idea I could sell it when I was done, getting back most if not all the cost.
Perfect timing. I literally have to build a fire pit this weekend.
Probably cheaper to get his old form mailed to ya than buying all the materials lol
Look into the type of concrete you actually want. Regular concrete cracks and breaks down in heat.
Phew! What preparation! The effort and the energy seemed so much more than the value of the fireplace could ever be. The workshop is a marvel.
20:15 Pam. The cooking spray. Works on River tables too!
We're a pretty large company but its always fun to watch these DIYs that anyone can do without a large scale crew or heavy equipment !
That's Big.
That's big.
I’m a certified cement mason, and I gotta say. You did a good job. A tip to separate the wood from the cement, you can use diesel gas. Works fine.
Can confirm diesel works beautifully and would use plastic form boards for bending its way easier
I was just going to form oil or diesel
Not an expert....but, built a very hot fire in a cement box. Turns out, the cement exploded. Finished cement contains water...expands and explodes. Just sharing.
@@patandsandytrierweiler2440 I've heard that before too! Scary.
@@patandsandytrierweiler2440
Watch at 20:21
Spray some oil (used) on the inside of the forms that meets the concrete prior to pour.
It’ll make removing the forms a lot easier.
Doesn’t effect outcome - as oil and water does not mix 👍🏻
If you incorporate 1” spacers between the internal ring joints, you could remove them when its time to take the internal form out, squeeze the now gapped spaced joints together with clamps and remove the internal ring pieces without destroying them. Just an after thought. This is a great video and I will be building my fire pit in the same manner. Thanks for your work.
Wish I had read the comments before completing this project. SMH.
Can't wait to see it burning for the first time. Hope the supervisor lets you sit and enjoy it with a Bourbon !! Keep up the great content
"Im not gong to rent a concrete mixer" Nobody has ever said twice......
All facts 👀
I'm wrecked I'll clean the concrete mixer tomorrow. Is also one.
Honestly, if you've got a steel barrel with a lid which can be attacked and detached, you can dump the concrete in, the water in, the pigments used (if you use; even dirt or ash or crayons can work) put the lid on, place the barrel on a side, and roll it for a while, and you mixed the cement without a "professional" cement mixer. It works better if you add some wood or metal things on the inside, like how a washing machine has (a cement mixer usually has curved ones), to help with the mixing (and adding a few uneven parts to each of those "ribs", to help even more with the mixing), but it works even without that, especially if you add a few rocks (to tumble about and move unevenly, to lead to a more even mixture with less moving). It might need more effort to get the barrel standing upright again, or to place it on the ground without it breaking, but it works better than mixing in a wheelbarrow/cart. By the way, did you know there are folding wheelbarrows (sometimes called portable wheelbarrows) out there? I didn't know, but it makes having spare wheelbarrows *A LOT* easier! Where would you even put the 3rd or 4th wheelbarrow, if it couldn't fold neatly out of the way?
Lol my dad had me out two days in a row mixing and pouring from a wheel barrow. Said he wasn't going to rent a mixer.
He said I was taking too long and helped on the third day. Day 4 he bought a mixer.
Bastard.
Also, he could have mixed the cement right next to his pit for a bit more efficiency
He's such a big kid. I love your video because it was funny and informative. This is the kind of video I like watching
Me at 1:06: Who the heck is “Jason?” oh well, let’s just keep watching and see what Bourbon is doing in this video
This has to be the most complicated concreted tire fire-pit i have ever witnessed being constructed
The exact same thing I was thinking, but I watched the whole video. Lol
And maybe the most expensive lol
My first thought was, keep it simple, make it square. I placed 4x8x16 solid concrete blocks (most of which I had leftover from a previous project) on end in a square and covered with surface bond cement from Quikcrete.
@@wtfdan817 Oh, good idea with the concrete blocks. I was thinking 200 empty aluminum soda cans would eat up some volume nicely ...if ya have 'em laying around.
In order for the interior form to be pulled out easily, you'd need to angle the seams away from each other, and also use a cross brace to bridge the gap screwed in to keep them positioned. This way, you could pull them away from one another to the inside of the radius without locking themselves into place.
what? angle the seams away from eachother what does that even mean?
In order to pull out the interior mould it should have been taperd: basically a truncated cone instead of a cylinder.
@@prevalle i guess its just hard to visualize. Can one of you guys upload an example? Or a link?
@@boppernostopper8598 Just cut a paper circle like he did, you can't pull it inwards. Only outwards. And in this case it was blocked by cement.
@@boppernostopper8598 You need hard 45's at every seam where the three sides meet- leaving no inner material to butt up on when you try to pull it inward.
Dude, hilarious video...and masterful work. Instant subscribe. I love that you're clearly a professional in carpentry/wood-working, but you don't take yourself too seriously.
lol, thought the same
Surprised you deconstructed the inner form instead of just lighting a fire in the pit! Turned out great!
I was thinking the same thing when I was watching it will all eventually burn away.
Biggest smile on my face when “The Foreman” showed up lol 😂
Me too lol
Whose kid is that?
@@INT_MAX Jason's adopted son ...also featured in the lawnmower-tank vid, the office millwork vid, etc.
Now that was something. It may have even proven to be empowering, on a positive note.
I loved the ''once again the foreman made me do all the heavy lifting"
When making the inner form, use three pieces (as you did) and use wedges of at least 60 degrees in the joints. That way, when you pull out the wedges (from the inside), the three pieces will easily pull straight out from the concrete and can be lifted out. And, they will be re-usable! 🤓👍
Thought the same thing. Would have saved a lot of pain and aggravation.
Or coulda started the bon fire early
Should just burn the inner Ring
I work as a technical designer at a factory in Denmark (Ambercon, Genner) that makes precast concrete elements (columns, beams, stairs, interior walls, etc.).
When we were building a new administration building a couple of years ago, the walls for the main hall were cast with wood grain texture using real boards as a bottom in the forms. All other walls are painted white, but these walls are raw and untreated. It looks real purty. :)
I have that very same Bosch reciprocating saw myself by the way (GSA 18 V-Li)...
Use high density foam cut to size of your inner diameter, glue and stack them to height. Pour the concrete and use a multi tool to take the high density foam out after its cured. It's not reusable, but works excellent
I was thinking the same.
Or burn the foam?
@@BaDiLi2L as long as you don’t burn the pvc pipe it’ll be over quick
@@MrRockitt3 😂
“If you like it you better put a ring on it.” - that’s funny. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
That was nice. Dad always sprayed diesel fuel on wood when we made forms, the oil in the diesel prevented the concrete from sticking. There might be a better alternative but we always had diesel on the farm along with pump up sprayers.
8
😮😮😮
Still use diesel on commercial precast plants, though they are moving to water based release agents
@@alisdairherd9501 I've never given it a lot of thought but I bet Thompson's water seal would work also just not as economical.
We use diesel fuel professionally also, in a big metal sprayer
When I saw you make that inner form, and even cut it in three, thinking you would just split them apart like the outer form, I smiled. Gave me more reason to watch the rest of the video...
I was really unsure about that wood texture, but seeing it now, it really looks awesome. Nice job!
Love the pebbles you used. When you were creating a mini-gabion wall inside the concrete structure I was hoping you'd make a fire pit that was ONLY gabion wall. That would have looked really cool!
6:20 watching you cut up new 2x4s into small blocks talking about cost, wondering why the scrap barrel in the corner wasn’t raided for them…
EXACTLY what I was thinking HAHAHAH!
I'm pretty sure it was cause it needed to accommodate that ring he inserted in the end, but I like the way you think.
I'd have just used the barrel for the fire pit
Thank you “skill share”!
Worked for a forming and shoring company WAY back in the day. We used a mix of Diesel Fuel and Automatic Transmission Fluid sprayed on concrete forms as a release agent.
After it cures you can stain it a wood color to make it look like actual wood. That would trip some humans out.
"humans"
Was thinking the same thing, it'd look awesome stained.
That would trip the termites out!
2 Sheets of plywood? That's a $1,400 fire pit..
I subscribed for the skillfully executed projects. I watch for the soothing, dulcet narrations.
You forgot the epic opening scenes lol
@@lechatbotte. Well of course, he performs his own stunts.
@@bradleypayne2495 I know very impressive too!
I absolutely love your interactions with your foreman. He's a cute kid. And you seems like a pretty cool dad.
Jack be nimble, jack be quick, Jack jumped over the fire pit.
that is the most over-engineered concrete mold I have ever seen 😂😂
I was looking for this comment 😂
YUPZ
Me 3! Lol! Could done 20 fire pits or so with sono-tubes for the price of the lumber alone. 10in thick?!
Yeah couldve threw some sonotubes down and been done
Yep, SONO TUBE would’ve saved about $2k in lumber😂😂
I tried using a concrete firepit and it ended up spliting and falling apart. Metal or fire bricks are much better for high heat. A washing machine that has a steel basket with holes works great!
Juat add three legs and the washing machine drum is ready. We have two of those. Really efective btw since it gets air fairly well from the holes.
As a former Industrial waterproofer, There's only four things you need to know about concrete, Its big, its hard, its expensive, and no one will steal it. Good job on the screed. if you want a smooth surface use painters plastic to line the form, it also helps with release.
I strongly recommend oiling the formboards to make them easier to remove afterwards. Also, DO NOT use regular cement for a project like this due to trapped moisture and risk of explosion. Use only refractory cement, which is designed for high temperature use.
You can recommend it all you want, but odds are no one will do that, as refractory cement is expensive. Unless of course you have two grand to spend on twenty bags of refractory cement. He did it the most economical way, and as a concrete guy myself, using wax is perfectly fine. I personally use diesel simply because I can spray it on with a pump up sprayer. But the objective is to get a clean separation, and to protect your forms, so what ever you use is acceptable.
@@thebeardedone1225 expensive but will break if you don't use.
You should also never use diesel to spray.
Not a risk. It will happen.
@@thenarrator1984 I've used diesel on my forms for fifty years. It works just fine, and preserve my forms quite nicely. I only use refractory cement in fireplaces. For outside pits, that requires a large volume, I substitute two shovel of sand with two shovel of fire clay. I've never had one crack. And I can't count how many I've poured that way.
@@thebeardedone1225 I'm sure you've used it.
Just because you have doesbnot mean it's fine.
It's disgusting for.the environment and it makes the cement compound not harden right so the outer layer willl degrade.
Seriously. I can't stand people who say 'done it fifty years'
So you threw diesel into the gutter for fifty years and it didn't hurt anything. Right.
God damn no wonder were in the place we are today with idiots like youm
This looks awesome. Only recommendation I'd make is to put some bricks at the bottom with a layer of expanded metal over that to really allow the air to flow through those holes you made with PVC.
Concrete absorbs moisture like a sponge unless its over 5000 PSI. Concrete gets saturated, fire turns water into steam, concrete explodes. Got a friend missing an eye due to this. And I've seen concrete explode due to water turning to steam and expanding. A very bad idea.
One look at this video and you can tell this guy isnt a "thinker", he may be a doer, but he def isnt a thinker.
Even stones can explode when used to line a fire pit; they may be OK for years until you get a really hot fire going and then there'a big surprise. Some stones tend to have dry interiors and some do not.
@thatguy 00 😂😂
Good comment safety first always the fire brick and steel ring should be adequate to stop the whole thing from cracking/exploding but overtime it will definitely crack.
He used fire bricks
20 Years I poured concrete and as Im watching his Im thinking damn this is really over engineered. Boy was I wrong. Well worth the effort. Nice Job!
All the real credit for this goes to the foreman, what a guy, kept that lazy beardy dude on track, brilliant. :]
Thanks for the video! I followed your lead but connected to gas instead. I’m really happy how it turned out thanks for this content!
I would burn the internal form away :)
That’s exactly what I was thinking 👍
That's what I was thinking ... but then , concrete needs to cure for a month. Why ruin all that hard work.
@@F-J. light the fire a month later and have steaks ready.
@@F-J. Good thinking. The result was super. I like the wood pattern on the concrete. :)
Thinking the same light that inside form up
I knew the moment I saw you slide into the frame of the camera on the grass that I liked you hahaha.
"only one things to do"
Me: Light the internal form on fire? it is wood and that is a fireplace.
I thought the same thing😂
Came into the comments to look for this.
Exactly
Biggest issue there is that the concrete hadn't finished curing yet. If he had lit a fire, the concrete would have cracked and degraded reallllly bad.
If you made the joins for the inner form at an angle of 45 degrees instead of 90 degrees they should pop out easier.
Very nicely done! Looks great! A little safety suggestion for you. I suggest wearing a dust mask when mixing bagged concrete. I’ve mixed a good bit of it over the years on projects, and actually got a respiratory infection once from breathing in the fine dust. You’re a lot of fun to watch and I’ve used a lot of your expertise on some of my projects. Thanks for that. Blessings!!
you breath that shit in it's never leaving your lungs.
That was an amazing watch! You're so much fun and so talented.
Kudos to you for thinking to vibrate. A lot of people don't and they end up with cracks because air bubbles were left in and they negatively affected the structural integrity.
The outer mold looks like they would make great benches to go around the fire pit.
Great design! Lets all admit though....we're all really here for the commentary lol.
You spent a lot of time digging that internal form out of there. I probably would have just lit a fire.
Should have sprayed old motor oil on it before pouring.
@@erlycuyler wouldn't have made a difference, with the screws being proud of the melamine the only way it could have ever even had a chance of coming apart would be to slide a piece toward the center and because of how he cut the 3 pieces that was impossible, if he cut one piece "keyed" the opposite direction it might have worked, I knew (from experience) he had no chance of getting the inner ring out due to the cut angle he chose.
@@erlycuyler tra lhy
@@DanielRichards644 You doubt the power of a properly employed mini sledge lol
@@JamesGrim08 a sledge isn't getting it out and having it reusable.
I agree with @DriveCarToBar
Union carpenter here. We use diesel and oil mixed in a backpack weed killer sprayer on forms before the pour. Just use Masonite next time for curves. You actually could have built this with just the Masonite and rebar stakes. We’ve done curvy pools at fancy resorts in a similar way. Exposed concrete is finished by masons and sanded. Looks great after.
Then Mrs. Moth says "It's too close to the house - I want it 3 feet closer to the fence."
Turned out great. I have a solo stove and wanted to make a square table with a cement table top that the stove would fit inside and this helped me figure out a good way to approach the circle in the middle of my square form!
I'm sure you've considered it, but remembered that ample airflow is the whole point of a solo stove
Concrete can and will blow up with fire don't do it ...
the rebar you put in extended into the ground. over time moisture will climb that bar and rust it out. always make sure your rebar is completely encased in the concrete.
The internal should have put like a 3/4" piece of wood between the three connectors, with the melamine overhanging 1/2 the width of the separator board so no space on the ring touching the concrete. Then when done you take the connector screws out and slide the 3/4" wood pieces out. That leaves a little space so you can pull the inner ring piece toward the center and then can take them out.
Very cool. That’s a good lookin fire pit. The only thing I’d do different is chamfer the outer edge, just for a little extra insurance on tequila Friday’s.
Great looking project! And, you have $2 million worth of destroyed lumber to burn in it!
Love the way you and the shop foreman do projects.... He’s the star of the channel...
You could run an edge around the top to soften the edge. Also the outer form could be removed when it's firm to smoothen out any seams
Very intrigued by this and am wondering how it has held up. Would love an update to see if it ended up exploding or not 😂
Me too, I'm pretty sure those were river rocks. They hold air bubbles, tha'ts why you never use them for fire pits next to the river..they explode :)
@@maxvapors6737 the rocks on the inside sadly take away a lot of the strength of the structure as it seperates the inner from the outer part. given it's also open to the ground on the underside that wasn't a very smart trick to save some concrete.
@@moos5221 it's not holding up any weight but itself. It's plenty strong.
@@vwnotch yeah, the own weight, added stress from heat expansion, especially if water seeps into the little gap he created with thos added rocks and if it every freezes in the area he lives in, the water that creeped into the little gaps will make it burst. it may be fine, but he certainly added a weak spot completely unnecessarily.
@@maxvapors6737 they’re behind the refractory bricks, I doubt they’ll get hot enough to explode
Looks pretty good for a non-concrete guy 🙂 Only thing I, as a concrete guy, would have suggested you do differently is to reinforce the concrete with rebar. This will sadly be susceptible to cracking which the rebar would (help) prevent. You could also just have put a ring of polystyrene in the middle, to take up some of the space, in place of the river rocks.
The metal expanding and contracting wouldn't cause an issue?
@@anonymoususer2634 the concrete is still going to expand as well, adding rebar or some mesh would probably help keep it tight. Not a concrete expert but another idea would be to cut some joints in that, which could also work into some design aspect, they would hide those cracks over time.
@@anonymoususer2634 concrete and iron expand at the same rate, that is what makes them a killer combo
@@tamasdukan1495 Exactly. One issue might be moisture in the concrete vaporizing due to heat and causing flaking of the cover layer, but I'd think the bricks would prevent that, mostly.
First thought I had is the wood probably cost more than anything else.
Same here.
Looks good..... they look like river rocks. River rocks explode and crack when reaching a certain temp.