So confusing to base the installation location based on the center of studs and working from the top down. Installation went well when I figured out the screw hole in the center of the bottom center track is on center with the top bar. That enabled me to work from the bottom up, putting the bottom track in first on the shower pan curb and then transferring the dimensions up to the door track using the template. If I had followed the 2.5" back spacing, my inner door would have hung inside my shower. Not sure studs are really necessary with substantial walls such as tile with backing boards.
it doesn't make sense that BOTH times the holes of the door need to be on the same side as the shower head... the outside panel should be on the opposite site
This install is not "easier than you think"- had I not been a pipefitter for 2 years I would have not been able to figure out how to install this. You can't just go off the center of the stud unless the house was built with this shower door in mind-which is never the case. I did not have a stud in line with my tub sill- the video and the manual is very clear that in my situation THE DOOR CANNOT BE INSTALLED. This is a sad lie. I'm not sure if Delta created this lie because installing in a way the door was not designed for is a legal liability- or if the engineers simply don't know it can be built better and stronger without a stud. I created a line 2.5 inches in from the outer edge of the sill- ignoring the implications of the radiused edge. I used a rule against the outer edge of the tub and bumped a tape against it and marked 2.5 inches. I used this line on both ends of the tub to line up the template. The template is absolute garbage. You have to be very careful with it to make sure it's straight. I used a 4 foot level as a straight edge to keep the template straight and quadruple checked it before drilling. These holes are "critical" they dictate how the entire thing is going to look in the end. Because I did not have a stud (and I'm glad I didn't because the included mounting hardware designed to screw into the stud is undersized and I wouldn't have trusted it) I used toggle bolts rated for 238lbs. Since the doors together weigh a little over 100 lbs- these are perfect. I had to drill half inch holes in the tile walls to accommodate the toggles. Once the toggles were in they took a 1/4-20 bolt. This bolt is too big for the holes on the mounting brackets. So I used a milling machine to increase the size of the holes to fit the 1/4 inch bolts. I used a cobalt drill bit. If you do this make sure to use a lot of silicon to cover the bolts because I think the brackets are made of duplex stainless at best or a galvanized steel at worst. Drilling may take off the outer coating which causes the potential for rust. So protect these areas with silicon after the bolts are in the wall. After I got the brackets up, stronger than designed, the rest was basically smooth sailing. All in all- take this video and the install manual with a grain of salt. The little guy narrating the video isn't gonna be there to bail you out when your doors don't line up with the tub sill and it's too late to fix it because you already drilled the holes. I took hours to think about my hole layout before drilling. I have an irregular shaped tub sill that gets dangerously narrow in one spot. Because of this I wasn't just gonna blindly hang the doors off the center of the stud (which I didn't even have). If I could redo this build I would start by placing the dam strip on first. I would also include the plastic triple U channel in my layout. I would center these pieces on the sill as best as possible. Then I would back figure with the dimensions included in the manual to find the location to drill the hanger holes. That way I could have the peace of mind of knowing 100% my doors are going to fall on the sill exactly where I want them. I was lucky everything worked out for me. Actually, it wasn't luck it was skill. But it only worked because I ignored the instructions. The worst thing that can happen is the optimal hanger hole location is right on the edge of a stud. This happened to me and I had to use a chisel though the 1/2in hole to break the stud corner up so I could fit the toggle. If you or someone you love finds themselves inside the nightmare that is installing this shower door- reply to my comment and if I see it I'll respond. I probably won't see it though. I do a lot of trolling in UA-cam comments so your reply might be lost in a sea of self righteous people replying to my comments. Honestly Delta should hire me. 27M with a bachelor's degree and real world construction experience...but I'm sure I don't fit their DEI requirements 😮
thank you😀
So confusing to base the installation location based on the center of studs and working from the top down. Installation went well when I figured out the screw hole in the center of the bottom center track is on center with the top bar. That enabled me to work from the bottom up, putting the bottom track in first on the shower pan curb and then transferring the dimensions up to the door track using the template. If I had followed the 2.5" back spacing, my inner door would have hung inside my shower. Not sure studs are really necessary with substantial walls such as tile with backing boards.
You still out there. Buddy? Could you answer a question
it doesn't make sense that BOTH times the holes of the door need to be on the same side as the shower head... the outside panel should be on the opposite site
That was an error in the video. That bothered me too.
This install is not "easier than you think"- had I not been a pipefitter for 2 years I would have not been able to figure out how to install this. You can't just go off the center of the stud unless the house was built with this shower door in mind-which is never the case.
I did not have a stud in line with my tub sill- the video and the manual is very clear that in my situation THE DOOR CANNOT BE INSTALLED. This is a sad lie. I'm not sure if Delta created this lie because installing in a way the door was not designed for is a legal liability- or if the engineers simply don't know it can be built better and stronger without a stud.
I created a line 2.5 inches in from the outer edge of the sill- ignoring the implications of the radiused edge. I used a rule against the outer edge of the tub and bumped a tape against it and marked 2.5 inches. I used this line on both ends of the tub to line up the template. The template is absolute garbage. You have to be very careful with it to make sure it's straight. I used a 4 foot level as a straight edge to keep the template straight and quadruple checked it before drilling. These holes are "critical" they dictate how the entire thing is going to look in the end.
Because I did not have a stud (and I'm glad I didn't because the included mounting hardware designed to screw into the stud is undersized and I wouldn't have trusted it) I used toggle bolts rated for 238lbs. Since the doors together weigh a little over 100 lbs- these are perfect. I had to drill half inch holes in the tile walls to accommodate the toggles. Once the toggles were in they took a 1/4-20 bolt. This bolt is too big for the holes on the mounting brackets. So I used a milling machine to increase the size of the holes to fit the 1/4 inch bolts. I used a cobalt drill bit. If you do this make sure to use a lot of silicon to cover the bolts because I think the brackets are made of duplex stainless at best or a galvanized steel at worst. Drilling may take off the outer coating which causes the potential for rust. So protect these areas with silicon after the bolts are in the wall. After I got the brackets up, stronger than designed, the rest was basically smooth sailing.
All in all- take this video and the install manual with a grain of salt. The little guy narrating the video isn't gonna be there to bail you out when your doors don't line up with the tub sill and it's too late to fix it because you already drilled the holes. I took hours to think about my hole layout before drilling. I have an irregular shaped tub sill that gets dangerously narrow in one spot. Because of this I wasn't just gonna blindly hang the doors off the center of the stud (which I didn't even have). If I could redo this build I would start by placing the dam strip on first. I would also include the plastic triple U channel in my layout. I would center these pieces on the sill as best as possible. Then I would back figure with the dimensions included in the manual to find the location to drill the hanger holes. That way I could have the peace of mind of knowing 100% my doors are going to fall on the sill exactly where I want them. I was lucky everything worked out for me. Actually, it wasn't luck it was skill. But it only worked because I ignored the instructions. The worst thing that can happen is the optimal hanger hole location is right on the edge of a stud. This happened to me and I had to use a chisel though the 1/2in hole to break the stud corner up so I could fit the toggle.
If you or someone you love finds themselves inside the nightmare that is installing this shower door- reply to my comment and if I see it I'll respond. I probably won't see it though. I do a lot of trolling in UA-cam comments so your reply might be lost in a sea of self righteous people replying to my comments. Honestly Delta should hire me. 27M with a bachelor's degree and real world construction experience...but I'm sure I don't fit their DEI requirements 😮
What a horrible design