I have have great edge retention with this axe. I've been cutting in oak both red and white species, various pines, knotty wood, maple, and some small hop hornbeam.. this winter this and a China head were my primary axes I was using in frozen wood. I have touched it up with a diamond stone very lightly due to some grit in the cut I think, but otherwise I've used it a lot without it complaining much at all.
So gentlemen....the WORK axe is 22.5 degrees? The main grind is 15 with a 22.5 micro? From the factory...you both have the Chinas...just curious about the WORK axe...it looks great and durable. I am thinking about options, time, and money. I can buy a racer cheaper and get it quicker but it looks as though a racer would be brittle due to the thin grind...
I would go with the work axe. China can be awesome. Of your looking to get into competitive chopping, the race axes are great, but they'll get destroyed in knotty wood or trail work type stuff. The China's I have came at 15 deg primary, and I keep. 20 degree chisel grind/flat grind on them and they hold up in oaks and with knots. The work axe I have is currently at 20 degrees and holds up awesome at that. I think it did come at 22.5 deg secondary with a chisel grind. It cut super well at 22.5 but since I had bought it for timbersport training intent, I lowered the angle a bit. But I can still chop frozen wood and oak without any issues. Both work, but you'll have to put some elbow grease into the China before it'll cut well. I'd avoid a dedicated racer unless your gonna compete.
Assuming it is your birthday sir, Happy Bithday, nice chopping...
It was, and thank you on both points!
Happy belated Birthday. I did some chopping on my birthday too earlier this month. Great way to spend a day.
It really is! I didn't get out to the woods, but the backyard is a good substitute in the meantime!
Have you had good luck with edge retention of this axe?
I have have great edge retention with this axe. I've been cutting in oak both red and white species, various pines, knotty wood, maple, and some small hop hornbeam.. this winter this and a China head were my primary axes I was using in frozen wood. I have touched it up with a diamond stone very lightly due to some grit in the cut I think, but otherwise I've used it a lot without it complaining much at all.
So gentlemen....the WORK axe is 22.5 degrees? The main grind is 15 with a 22.5 micro? From the factory...you both have the Chinas...just curious about the WORK axe...it looks great and durable. I am thinking about options, time, and money. I can buy a racer cheaper and get it quicker but it looks as though a racer would be brittle due to the thin grind...
I would go with the work axe. China can be awesome. Of your looking to get into competitive chopping, the race axes are great, but they'll get destroyed in knotty wood or trail work type stuff. The China's I have came at 15 deg primary, and I keep. 20 degree chisel grind/flat grind on them and they hold up in oaks and with knots. The work axe I have is currently at 20 degrees and holds up awesome at that. I think it did come at 22.5 deg secondary with a chisel grind. It cut super well at 22.5 but since I had bought it for timbersport training intent, I lowered the angle a bit. But I can still chop frozen wood and oak without any issues. Both work, but you'll have to put some elbow grease into the China before it'll cut well. I'd avoid a dedicated racer unless your gonna compete.
@Jzelenko27 I was curious how you tuned your Work axe. Thank you sir for this information, just a matter of the desicion itself....thank you sir....