Very good work, I have been hanging drywall for many years and I would hire someone to come and tape and mud, but I said " I want to learn how to do it and save myself time and money, Watching other professionals do it helps me very much, I have to say that this video is a good explanation to doing it the rite way, I have been having some issues with doing the corners and getting them just rite and this helped out allot, thank you
GREAT DIY VIDEO! This is by far the BEST corner and ceiling drywall video I have ever watched. I really appreciate how you took the time to explain everything in detail. It was so helpful that I could see, here and understand everything that was being done. Your video helped me out so much! Thank you Stan!
Thank you Stan! Corners were driving me crazy. I was trying to tool into the corners on both walls, needless to say the results were frustrating and NOT good. Now I'm actually looking forward to getting back at the bathroom. :)
Due to my house settling, some of an inside corner on one of my walls needs to be repaired. Should I pull off the existing tape and replace, or can I just tape over the existing tape? The whole inside corner does not need to be repaired. Thanks... Enjoyed your video, very informative.
Awesome!!! After the third time, I got it! I see what you mean. On the 3rd coat, get into the corner that you omitted on the second coat! You use the word, "tool," but I didn't understand what you meant and it was hard to see that on the third pass, the knife wasn't riding against the corner. That was why I was confused! Excellent video.
Thanks Stan. Hopefully this will be much less painful this afternoon after watching. Appreciate it. Also, great quality video session. Voice-over and camera work well done. Bob
This is an excellent how to video. Thanks for the clear and focused commentary as well as the insightful general philosophy towards the end about developing the characteristic of caring about beautiful results! You did a great job of touching on the key details.
The tape is a long rolled up strip of thick paper. the prosses is apply joint compound to the area that you are going to tape. apply the tape to that area then use a drywall knife to smooth off the tape and compound, then let it dry. it must be dry for the next 2 coats. Thank you for watching.
i been taping drywall for 30 yrs you dont try n finish both sides same time you do 1 side then when its dry you do the other stagger it from wall to ceiling the corner is called a 3 way that way they get 2 coats in the corners this is the hard way good luck
Even if you coat one side at a time you need to clean up the other side. I find that there is more than one way to do anything, use the way that works best for you. If you take a good look at the video you will see that we have more in common that you think. Thanks for watching.
I'm 71 years old, tried several times to seam drywall over my years. Not often enough to properly train myself. I watched the pros, thought I knew how, ended up knowing nothing. What a mess, and lots of sanding. I watched this video along with others, and tried a very small 4 foot by 4 foot area inset in my kitchen ceiling. I'm on my third step, and, yep, what a mess. I have a lot of wet sanding in my future. I can paint rooms, cut in without painters tape, and I can create intricate woodworking skills, but seaming drywall? Nope, I'm drywall seaming challenged.
Thank you for posting this. But the very reason for my watching it was addressed in this video but I cannot understand what you mean. I want to know on the third coast how to avoid the mess of finishing off the inside part of the corner and to me, it is not made clear in this video - I do not understand.
The first coat or tape coat is applying the joint compound or mud to both sides of the corner, applying the tape then smoothing it down or cleaning of all the excess, getting it as clean as you can. The make sure the tape is dry or it will bubble when you apply the next coat, 2n'd coat apply mud to both sides of the corner then using the drywall knife wipe or blade down one side of the corner. If you take a good look at the knife it has the 4" or 6" working edge then a short 90 degree corner before it tapers back to the handle, use that small edge to make your corner on the first pass, then on the second pass don't wipe into the corner just wipe off the portion that is uneven, smoothing it out, and let that dry. on the 3rd coat you start the same way but this time you wipe down or make the corner on the opposite corner using that small 90 degree angle to make the corner then on the opposite side use the knife to clean off the excess without going all the way into the corner. So you're working one side in the second coat and the other side on the third coat then touching up and sanding as needed. You're trying to hide the tape edge and have a nice clean corner when you're finished. The challenge is holding the handle of the knife at a consistent distance from the wall when you're making the corner. It takes a little practice, just remember one side then the other. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching. Stan
it's really all about patience. Thanks for taking the time to put together this video it was really nice to see someone put passion into their work, well done.
Thank you for your comment. yes it all takes time. In my remodeling business I always tried to do it so I would enjoy living in that space, and feel good about it. Making videos take time and when you finally get one done and posted I see all of the other mistakes I made. Again thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
when sanding,should i focus on the edges of the area i want to smooth out or the middle?last time i sanded it looked smooth but after painting it i could see bumps and tape allover.how can i prevent it from happening?whats the trick?
+yari16215 If edges and tape are showing, you haven't covered with drywall compound enough. If you are seeing bubbles in the paper tape, start dipping the paper tape in water, completely wet it. Then apply the compound to surface, place the wet tape on, cover over the tape on wall with compound. Be sure compound completely covers both front and back of tape. Use your trowel to smooth it out, holding the tape in place with the other hand. Always trowel along the whole length of any wet joint (slowly as needed), don't swipe small sections. Beginners should expect to work the joint at least four times (letting it completely die between each working). If you remember to work any joint slowly, wet the tape and always pull the trowel the whole length (and not too much compound), you'll catch on fast.
Stan, what do you do when you have some ceiling tape that is a little frayed after removing popcorn ceiling? Can you simply mud over it, or should you retape over it, or do you have to remove the old tape and lay down new tape? I sure hope it's not the last one.
if the outside of the tape is frayed you can work some mud into it and smooth it out, then recoat it when it's dry. if the inside corners is brocken or torn you will need to retape it. good luck and thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.
Thanks for the reply. The inside corner was intact, so I didn't need to retape it. What was frayed was the ceiling face and a bit of the outside edge. I was able to mud over it like you said, with good results! Thanks for the advice!
Stan you are the man! thanks for this video. can you elaborate on the consistency of the drywall compound please. I'm in the UK and I use easi fill. Do you make the compound slightly thinner than usual? thanks.
Thank you for your comment, I like to have my mud a little thinner than what it comes in the bucket. Consistency is a personal thing. Some like straight from the bucket others like it thinner, you have to play with it to see what works well for you. A old trick that some drywall finishers have done is to add a little dish soap to the compound to make it slicker. I mix up the compound really well using a half inch drill motor and a drywall compound mixer, then add a little dish soap and a little water, I want it to flow well but not be runny. The industry says that your not to thin it at all but I find that thinning compound a little makes the work flow a little faster. Good luck, thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
This was great. But you post a video on how to do this around a shower. I're got trouble figuring out how to stabilize the side of the crease that touches top of shower. I can get the wall side perfect but the shower side has nothing to attach to?
I'm sorry, I don't think I understand your question. is the shower walls all tiled, The corners should be taped and finished before the shower surround or tile goes up. Are you taping around tile ore something else. Please repeat the question.
I'm taping around top and sides of shower. It looks like when they put the sheet rock up they cut too wide so there is a about a one inch gap all the way around the tub / shower unit. (one piece kind they put in new construction.. then build the bathroom around it. It got wet and gummy so I started digging it out thinking I would have to fix a small hole. ended up pulling all the tape off and having to redo it. So when I tape I am putting the tape on the bottom of the sheet rock and letting half of the tape hang over that gap. And trying to mud it so I guess it gets stiff enough to paint and look like the wall is touching the top and sides of the tub/shower unit like it is supposed to. so when I try to mud it the bottom part of the tape has nothing to adhere to. It dips in and bubbles.
2011JFoster I'm sorry that the drywallers left you a 1 inch gap, They know better. They should have kept in within 1/4 inch, Oh well. Here's the salutation or here's how you fix the problem. Remove the tape that you have taped around the shower and clean up the debris. Next go to a lumber yard that sells drywall supplies and pick up some 20 minute speed set drywall compound. It normally comes in a white bag and is in powder form. Poor some powder in a small bucket, add water and mix to the consistency of cookie dough, maybe a little thinner, add water until it works well for you. the more water you add will only make it runnier. you want to be able to press it into the gap and smooth it down with a 4 or 6 " knife or drywall knife. Let it set up until firm and then tape that. Then let the whole thing dry before adding any more coats. You can also pick up some mesh tape, cut and place it over the set - speed set drywall compound. Mix up some additional speed set in a different bucket and mud over the mesh tape. When that dry's or set you can apply additional coats to smooth out the area and finish around the shower stall. Below is a link to my video on patching drywall, it will help in understanding 20 minute set joint compound. I hope this helps let me know how it works for you. Thank you for watching. Stan ua-cam.com/video/ZD2Rikmohf0/v-deo.html Also ua-cam.com/video/qbVzolMjQ9Y/v-deo.html
YES!!!! That is exactly what I needed. THANKYOU! The bathroom came our great except the corners. I couldn't get those good even with the corner trowl. You mus be psych though. I moved on to painting the hallway/stairwell and I wanted to CRY after I got the first coat on. My house is 8 years old and I really want to go do bodily harm to the builders! You should see the wall, I seriously wish I could send you pictures, you would probably run them out of the trade. Not just nail pops galore but there is a HUGE seem between the sheet rock right where the second flood meets the first floor going up the stairs :-( We couldn't see them when the wall was still white but I've gone darker beige and it's HORRENDOUS. So next question. Your ail pop tutorial is great but what do I do if they actually used nails not screws. Also what do i do about that bulging seam !! can it be fixed at this late date.
2011JFoster Sorry to say there has always been crappy builders and it has gotten worse over the last 40 years. the problem is many fold and I won't go into it now. When a nail pops it's do to not getting nailed into the heart of the wood but on the side were it seams to be set but will work out in time, it's a common problem with even the best builders. The solution - take a drywall nail and set it into the drywall right along side of the old nail head, then carefully nail it down below the surface of the drywall so it can be patched the head of the new nail will hold the old nail below the surface as long as you get the new nail into the stud. now the seams sometimes lumber shrinks and it causes the seams to bulge, sometimes this can be fixed buy additional seam coats to flush it out smooth. Sometimes you have to carefully cut out the bulge, then tape and float it back to a smooth surface. I hope your walls a flat it makes it a lot easyer. Good luck & Thank you for watching. Stan
I saw the video and followed direction. But its my first time and it didn't come out like i wanted it to. Even after 3 coats i can still see a bit of the tape. I guess i took off too muchmud? Or didn't put on enough mud? Any suggestions?
You have to wait until you don't damage the 2nd coat when applying the 3rd coat and that depends on the drying conditions. there is no set time. it could be a few hours, it could be a day. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
it depends on what you are doing. if you are taping a room I would use paper tape. If you are doing a quick patch I would use mesh and there are different types of mesh. Good luck and thank you for watching.
Took off a room full of wallpaper. Noticed previous owners never plastered joints, or any corners. After they put the wallpaper they stomped the ceiling. I guess my question is how to go about taping a ceiling when the ceiling is stomped
Sometimes all you can do is mask the ceiling then flat tape up to it, sand and then caulk any small gap you might have. good luck. thank you for watching!
At the very beginning, before he has done anything, there is a small gap where the wall meets the ceiling. My basement wall (which bubbled out and needs re-sealing) has a similar gap, but it seemed like there was some kind of product 'piped' into the gap -- it pulls out in a long, rubbery string. Does anyone know what this is? Is it necessary to join that opening together, or can I just use the tape and the technique here? Thanks for anyone who takes the time to respond! I'm trying to teach myself how to do this since it's primarily cosmetic and a small job (but by no means easy I"m sure)
If you have a small gape it's okay just fill it with joint compound, tape it and let it dry completely. If you have a large gap around a 1/2" or larger, it's best to fill it with some 20 minute speed set joint compound and get it as smooth as you can. let that set up. Then tape and finish it like you would a normal corner. If the gap is to large its best to flat tape the gap and let that set, them tape and finish the corner. I hope this helps. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
Thanks for your reply! It's a small opening, maybe 1/4" max. I've never worked with mud or tape before but I'm pretty handy so I'll give it a shot -- your tutorial doesn't make it look *easy* but I think with some practice I could do it. And as my house gets older, the tape is bubbling all over so it would be nice to be able to do this myself. cheers!
Lightly sanding a painted surface is helpful. Clean any debris from the corner so you don't get any lumps that would cause problems. Thank you for watching!
How big of an area are you needing to finish. Secured the frame to the ceiling, then flat taped the drywall to the ceiling to fill the gap, (don't get joint compound on the ceiling, you may need to mask it.) caulk the joint with some Acrylic latex caulking. It's really hard to match textures that are on plastered ceilings, good luck, thank you for watching.
I'll try again. .... had a tough morning doing my bathroom. .. it takes time to get a technique going an a small bathroom isn't easy.. by the time I'll finish I'll just be getting IT...LOL
is it a big crack or a hairline crack? If it's a hairline crack you can caulk it with all purpose acrylic latex caulk plus silicone, it it's a big crack you may need to retape it but first find out why it's cracking and fix that problem. Good luck. Thank you for watching.
If you ar talking about an arch, you tape it in small lengths. Then finish it the same way as a straight corner. do it in different segments and you will get the hang of it Thank you for watching!
Buy a curved corner piece. They come in 8 and 10 foot lengths. They are about 2 bucks for an 8 foot corner and are well worth the cost in labor savings. Finished product is consistent and perfect.
I must be missing something. I see you tape the seams but you don't really discuss the corner. If you tape both sides to the corner, you end up with tape overlapping on the ceiling. I was on here looking at what people do there.
My husband and I bought a new house about 25 years ago, and in the last ten years the taping is just separating from the wall. It looks like they never put enough sparkle or mud as you demonstrated. My husband became sick and cannot redo the wall, it is a great big space. The room is 18 x 20, but I knew something wasn't right with that taping. Not enough sparkle. It looks like they installed the tape and did not cover it. Thanks for the demonstration.
Yes but what are they caulking? When it comes to drywall and the gaps that happen when it's installed it's best to tape with paper tape and finish with joint compound, Thank you for watching.
Wow this is terrible. You never bang the knife agaist the tape. one because you can rip the tape and two because if the opening is on that side the tape wil sink in and when you apply the compund it as it drys its going to leave a gap on the side where it sunk in. Im a contractor i have been doing this for 15 years. I specialy in plater/taping.
Very good work, I have been hanging drywall for many years and I would hire someone to come and tape and mud, but I said " I want to learn how to do it and save myself time and money, Watching other professionals do it helps me very much, I have to say that this video is a good explanation to doing it the rite way, I have been having some issues with doing the corners and getting them just rite and this helped out allot, thank you
GREAT DIY VIDEO! This is by far the BEST corner and ceiling drywall video I have ever watched. I really appreciate how you took the time to explain everything in detail. It was so helpful that I could see, here and understand everything that was being done. Your video helped me out so much! Thank you Stan!
Thank you for your comment, I'm happy that I could help. Have a great day and thank you for watching.
It looks so easy but is really hard to do it....
Thanks for share your knowledge.
Thank you Stan! Corners were driving me crazy. I was trying to tool into the corners on both walls, needless to say the results were frustrating and NOT good. Now I'm actually looking forward to getting back at the bathroom. :)
+lerch25 Your very welcome, I'm glad I could help. Thank you for watching.
Due to my house settling, some of an inside corner on one of my walls needs to be repaired. Should I pull off the existing tape and replace, or can I just tape over the existing tape? The whole inside corner does not need to be repaired. Thanks... Enjoyed your video, very informative.
Very clear explanation, good camera work. Wish all DIY help vids were this good.
Thank you, and thank you for watching
Awesome!!!
After the third time, I got it! I see what you mean. On the 3rd coat, get into the corner that you omitted on the second coat! You use the word, "tool," but I didn't understand what you meant and it was hard to see that on the third pass, the knife wasn't riding against the corner. That was why I was confused!
Excellent video.
Thanks Stan. Hopefully this will be much less painful this afternoon after watching. Appreciate it. Also, great quality video session. Voice-over and camera work well done. Bob
Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
This is an excellent how to video. Thanks for the clear and focused commentary as well as the insightful general philosophy towards the end about developing the characteristic of caring about beautiful results! You did a great job of touching on the key details.
Thank you for your comment, and thank you for watching!
Great demo! Concise instructions and super helpful! Excellent teacher!
Thanks Stan- I can't wait for the weekend so that I can tackle this in my small bathroom renovation.
Thanks for your tutorial, mister. I"m getting ready to do the corners in a section of wall I had to replace above the fridge.
One more quick question Stan. The tape: is it regular adhesive tape. If so, which side should the sticky side be facing.
The tape is a long rolled up strip of thick paper. the prosses is apply joint compound to the area that you are going to tape. apply the tape to that area then use a drywall knife to smooth off the tape and compound, then let it dry. it must be dry for the next 2 coats. Thank you for watching.
kind, warm, informative and enjoyable; thank you
you are an excellent teacher!
Thank you! Thank you for watching.
I like the instruction, you are very clear and precise
Well I messed up bad today. Gonna have to rip it off tomorrow and do it the right way. Thank you
Not only do i care but I feel like I know a bit better about how to do... Thanks for your help. Hope u have a great day as well.
Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
Ah, wish I had seen this before I started my ceiling. It would have bee so helpful!
2LazyLeslie I have found UA-cam to be a great place to find how to's on almost everything. I just want to say, Than You for Watching. Stan
me too
i been taping drywall for 30 yrs you dont try n finish both sides same time you do 1 side then when its dry you do the other stagger it from wall to ceiling the corner is called a 3 way that way they get 2 coats in the corners this is the hard way good luck
Even if you coat one side at a time you need to clean up the other side. I find that there is more than one way to do anything, use the way that works best for you. If you take a good look at the video you will see that we have more in common that you think. Thanks for watching.
I'm 71 years old, tried several times to seam drywall over my years. Not often enough to properly train myself. I watched the pros, thought I knew how, ended up knowing nothing. What a mess, and lots of sanding. I watched this video along with others, and tried a very small 4 foot by 4 foot area inset in my kitchen ceiling. I'm on my third step, and, yep, what a mess. I have a lot of wet sanding in my future. I can paint rooms, cut in without painters tape, and I can create intricate woodworking skills, but seaming drywall? Nope, I'm drywall seaming challenged.
I just want to add, I respect all the people who drywall for a living. You don't get paid enough. I truly believe you are artists.
Same here. I can pick up on everything I do rather quickly but mudding inside corners and getting smooth finishes drives me nuts. I just cant get it.
Thank you for posting this. But the very reason for my watching it was addressed in this video but I cannot understand what you mean. I want to know on the third coast how to avoid the mess of finishing off the inside part of the corner and to me, it is not made clear in this video - I do not understand.
The first coat or tape coat is applying the joint compound or mud to both sides of the corner, applying the tape then smoothing it down or cleaning of all the excess, getting it as clean as you can. The make sure the tape is dry or it will bubble when you apply the next coat, 2n'd coat apply mud to both sides of the corner then using the drywall knife wipe or blade down one side of the corner. If you take a good look at the knife it has the 4" or 6" working edge then a short 90 degree corner before it tapers back to the handle, use that small edge to make your corner on the first pass, then on the second pass don't wipe into the corner just wipe off the portion that is uneven, smoothing it out, and let that dry. on the 3rd coat you start the same way but this time you wipe down or make the corner on the opposite corner using that small 90 degree angle to make the corner then on the opposite side use the knife to clean off the excess without going all the way into the corner. So you're working one side in the second coat and the other side on the third coat then touching up and sanding as needed. You're trying to hide the tape edge and have a nice clean corner when you're finished. The challenge is holding the handle of the knife at a consistent distance from the wall when you're making the corner. It takes a little practice, just remember one side then the other. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching. Stan
Do I need to sand in between each coat??? Thanks.
No. Unless it's to rough to recoat. The smoother the coat, the less sanding. Thank you for watching.
@@StanStallings aw thanks Stan. Top man!!
Thanks! This is the best inside corner vid ever, imho.
your very welcome, thank you for watching.
it's really all about patience. Thanks for taking the time to put together this video it was really nice to see someone put passion into their work, well done.
Thank you for your comment. yes it all takes time. In my remodeling business I always tried to do it so I would enjoy living in that space, and feel good about it. Making videos take time and when you finally get one done and posted I see all of the other mistakes I made. Again thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
when sanding,should i focus on the edges of the area i want to smooth out or the middle?last time i sanded it looked smooth but after painting it i could see bumps and tape allover.how can i prevent it from happening?whats the trick?
+yari16215
If edges and tape are showing, you haven't covered with drywall compound enough. If you are seeing bubbles in the paper tape, start dipping the paper tape in water, completely wet it. Then apply the compound to surface, place the wet tape on, cover over the tape on wall with compound. Be sure compound completely covers both front and back of tape. Use your trowel to smooth it out, holding the tape in place with the other hand. Always trowel along the whole length of any wet joint (slowly as needed), don't swipe small sections. Beginners should expect to work the joint at least four times (letting it completely die between each working). If you remember to work any joint slowly, wet the tape and always pull the trowel the whole length (and not too much compound), you'll catch on fast.
Stan, what do you do when you have some ceiling tape that is a little frayed after removing popcorn ceiling? Can you simply mud over it, or should you retape over it, or do you have to remove the old tape and lay down new tape? I sure hope it's not the last one.
if the outside of the tape is frayed you can work some mud into it and smooth it out, then recoat it when it's dry. if the inside corners is brocken or torn you will need to retape it. good luck and thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.
Thanks for the reply. The inside corner was intact, so I didn't need to retape it. What was frayed was the ceiling face and a bit of the outside edge. I was able to mud over it like you said, with good results! Thanks for the advice!
Your very welcome, I'm glad I could help. and thank you for your comments and Thank you for watching!
Stan you are the man! thanks for this video. can you elaborate on the consistency of the drywall compound please. I'm in the UK and I use easi fill. Do you make the compound slightly thinner than usual? thanks.
Thank you for your comment, I like to have my mud a little thinner than what it comes in the bucket. Consistency is a personal thing. Some like straight from the bucket others like it thinner, you have to play with it to see what works well for you. A old trick that some drywall finishers have done is to add a little dish soap to the compound to make it slicker. I mix up the compound really well using a half inch drill motor and a drywall compound mixer, then add a little dish soap and a little water, I want it to flow well but not be runny. The industry says that your not to thin it at all but I find that thinning compound a little makes the work flow a little faster. Good luck, thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
This was great. But you post a video on how to do this around a shower. I're got trouble figuring out how to stabilize the side of the crease that touches top of shower. I can get the wall side perfect but the shower side has nothing to attach to?
I'm sorry, I don't think I understand your question. is the shower walls all tiled, The corners should be taped and finished before the shower surround or tile goes up. Are you taping around tile ore something else. Please repeat the question.
I'm taping around top and sides of shower. It looks like when they put the sheet rock up they cut too wide so there is a about a one inch gap all the way around the tub / shower unit. (one piece kind they put in new construction.. then build the bathroom around it. It got wet and gummy so I started digging it out thinking I would have to fix a small hole. ended up pulling all the tape off and having to redo it. So when I tape I am putting the tape on the bottom of the sheet rock and letting half of the tape hang over that gap. And trying to mud it so I guess it gets stiff enough to paint and look like the wall is touching the top and sides of the tub/shower unit like it is supposed to. so when I try to mud it the bottom part of the tape has nothing to adhere to. It dips in and bubbles.
2011JFoster I'm sorry that the drywallers left you a 1 inch gap, They know better. They should have kept in within 1/4 inch, Oh well. Here's the salutation or here's how you fix the problem. Remove the tape that you have taped around the shower and clean up the debris. Next go to a lumber yard that sells drywall supplies and pick up some 20 minute speed set drywall compound. It normally comes in a white bag and is in powder form. Poor some powder in a small bucket, add water and mix to the consistency of cookie dough, maybe a little thinner, add water until it works well for you. the more water you add will only make it runnier. you want to be able to press it into the gap and smooth it down with a 4 or 6 " knife or drywall knife. Let it set up until firm and then tape that. Then let the whole thing dry before adding any more coats. You can also pick up some mesh tape, cut and place it over the set - speed set drywall compound. Mix up some additional speed set in a different bucket and mud over the mesh tape. When that dry's or set you can apply additional coats to smooth out the area and finish around the shower stall. Below is a link to my video on patching drywall, it will help in understanding 20 minute set joint compound. I hope this helps let me know how it works for you. Thank you for watching. Stan
ua-cam.com/video/ZD2Rikmohf0/v-deo.html
Also
ua-cam.com/video/qbVzolMjQ9Y/v-deo.html
YES!!!! That is exactly what I needed. THANKYOU! The bathroom came our great except the corners. I couldn't get those good even with the corner trowl. You mus be psych though. I moved on to painting the hallway/stairwell and I wanted to CRY after I got the first coat on. My house is 8 years old and I really want to go do bodily harm to the builders! You should see the wall, I seriously wish I could send you pictures, you would probably run them out of the trade. Not just nail pops galore but there is a HUGE seem between the sheet rock right where the second flood meets the first floor going up the stairs :-( We couldn't see them when the wall was still white but I've gone darker beige and it's HORRENDOUS. So next question. Your ail pop tutorial is great but what do I do if they actually used nails not screws. Also what do i do about that bulging seam !! can it be fixed at this late date.
2011JFoster Sorry to say there has always been crappy builders and it has gotten worse over the last 40 years. the problem is many fold and I won't go into it now. When a nail pops it's do to not getting nailed into the heart of the wood but on the side were it seams to be set but will work out in time, it's a common problem with even the best builders. The solution - take a drywall nail and set it into the drywall right along side of the old nail head, then carefully nail it down below the surface of the drywall so it can be patched the head of the new nail will hold the old nail below the surface as long as you get the new nail into the stud. now the seams sometimes lumber shrinks and it causes the seams to bulge, sometimes this can be fixed buy additional seam coats to flush it out smooth. Sometimes you have to carefully cut out the bulge, then tape and float it back to a smooth surface. I hope your walls a flat it makes it a lot easyer. Good luck & Thank you for watching. Stan
Great artistic, yet precise way of doing inside corners!
Nice one mate, I will try that tomorrow.
Great use of camera angle to show your work and how-to. Great video. Thanks!
Thank you for your comment. and Thank you for watching.
I saw the video and followed direction. But its my first time and it didn't come out like i wanted it to. Even after 3 coats i can still see a bit of the tape. I guess i took off too muchmud? Or didn't put on enough mud? Any suggestions?
Also see a closer look here is the link ua-cam.com/video/OQH6nzxsIoA/v-deo.html
Thank you much. A very helpful video.
Oh yeah, and 1 like and 1 share. :)
+Keith “FatherMischief” Umsted Thank you for your comment, I'm glad I can help. Thank you for watching, liking and sharing.
How long do you wait after the 2nd coat to apply the 3rd coat? Do you let it completely dry, like after the 1st coat?
You have to wait until you don't damage the 2nd coat when applying the 3rd coat and that depends on the drying conditions. there is no set time. it could be a few hours, it could be a day. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
Is using mesh tape ok?
it depends on what you are doing. if you are taping a room I would use paper tape. If you are doing a quick patch I would use mesh and there are different types of mesh. Good luck and thank you for watching.
Thank You, good home project to do. Gonna try it for sure.
Great job! Thanks! Starting tomorrow!
Your very welcome, did you see ua-cam.com/video/OQH6nzxsIoA/v-deo.html it's a closer look. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
Hi Stan. Do you ever moisten the paper tape first?
No, The tape is moistened by the joint compound, no need to premoisten. premoisten is that a word? Thank you for watching.
Cool tips, very professional
Took off a room full of wallpaper. Noticed previous owners never plastered joints, or any corners. After they put the wallpaper they stomped the ceiling. I guess my question is how to go about taping a ceiling when the ceiling is stomped
Sometimes all you can do is mask the ceiling then flat tape up to it, sand and then caulk any small gap you might have. good luck. thank you for watching!
Looks Good!
At the very beginning, before he has done anything, there is a small gap where the wall meets the ceiling. My basement wall (which bubbled out and needs re-sealing) has a similar gap, but it seemed like there was some kind of product 'piped' into the gap -- it pulls out in a long, rubbery string. Does anyone know what this is? Is it necessary to join that opening together, or can I just use the tape and the technique here?
Thanks for anyone who takes the time to respond! I'm trying to teach myself how to do this since it's primarily cosmetic and a small job (but by no means easy I"m sure)
If you have a small gape it's okay just fill it with joint compound, tape it and let it dry completely. If you have a large gap around a 1/2" or larger, it's best to fill it with some 20 minute speed set joint compound and get it as smooth as you can. let that set up. Then tape and finish it like you would a normal corner. If the gap is to large its best to flat tape the gap and let that set, them tape and finish the corner. I hope this helps. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
Thanks for your reply! It's a small opening, maybe 1/4" max. I've never worked with mud or tape before but I'm pretty handy so I'll give it a shot -- your tutorial doesn't make it look *easy* but I think with some practice I could do it. And as my house gets older, the tape is bubbling all over so it would be nice to be able to do this myself. cheers!
So we need to just use the six inch knife? You still use the four inch in the video. Clarification, please.
I guess the 6-inch knife comment was edited in, right Stan?
I watched it again. I get it. Thank you!!!!
Very good. I didn't realize how many coats were actually needed and the importance of really letting it dry fully.
Do you have to pre sand surrounding painted surfaces before fixing a crack, or can you just put joint compound right over a painted surface?
Lightly sanding a painted surface is helpful. Clean any debris from the corner so you don't get any lumps that would cause problems. Thank you for watching!
What do you do if ceiling is say finished plaster? Thanks in advance
How big of an area are you needing to finish. Secured the frame to the ceiling, then flat taped the drywall to the ceiling to fill the gap, (don't get joint compound on the ceiling, you may need to mask it.) caulk the joint with some Acrylic latex caulking. It's really hard to match textures that are on plastered ceilings, good luck, thank you for watching.
Thanks this video helped alot.
Very helpful!! Thank you!!
Fantastic Instructional Video. Great Job, Well Done! FR
very good explanation
Thank you for your comments and thank you for watching.
Good video. Thank you.
+Tony Palermo Thank you for your comment and Thank You for Watching.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Big LIKE! Who is the people who clicked "unlike"?
I'll try again. .... had a tough morning doing my bathroom. .. it takes time to get a technique going an a small bathroom isn't easy.. by the time I'll finish I'll just be getting IT...LOL
Hi
how can I fix a crack?
is it a big crack or a hairline crack? If it's a hairline crack you can caulk it with all purpose acrylic latex caulk plus silicone, it it's a big crack you may need to retape it but first find out why it's cracking and fix that problem. Good luck. Thank you for watching.
en que pais es eso
great tutorial! that's exactly what i do
Thank you for your comment. and Thank you for watching.
Thanks Stan!
I appreciate this Video. IT REALLY HELPED! : )
+Cheryl Lewis Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
how do you drywall and mud a curved corner from the ceiling to the wall
If you ar talking about an arch, you tape it in small lengths. Then finish it the same way as a straight corner. do it in different segments and you will get the hang of it Thank you for watching!
Buy a curved corner piece. They come in 8 and 10 foot lengths. They are about 2 bucks for an 8 foot corner and are well worth the cost in labor savings. Finished product is consistent and perfect.
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정말 감사합니다. 시청해 주셔서 감사합니다.
This was very beautiful
I must be missing something. I see you tape the seams but you don't really discuss the corner. If you tape both sides to the corner, you end up with tape overlapping on the ceiling. I was on here looking at what people do there.
sooo good.
My husband and I bought a new house about 25 years ago, and in the last ten years the taping is just separating from the wall. It looks like they never put enough sparkle or mud as you demonstrated. My husband became sick and cannot redo the wall, it is a great big space. The room is 18 x 20, but I knew something wasn't right with that taping. Not enough sparkle. It looks like they installed the tape and did not cover it. Thanks for the demonstration.
your very welcome, glad I could help. Thank you for watching!
What if you don't even use the drywall tape in the corner? I've heard of some European countries using caulking to do their inside corners
Yes but what are they caulking? When it comes to drywall and the gaps that happen when it's installed it's best to tape with paper tape and finish with joint compound, Thank you for watching.
We use scrim tape, paper tape shouldn't be used, give it 10 years and there will be cracks everywhere
I was hoping to find a shortcut or faster way than having to do two or three coats ... but apparently not. I hate drywalling!
Sorry, but now you know that you olny have to do a tape coat and 2 coats, Thank you for watching
I knee to know how if i put new ceiling in how to tie it to a finished wall
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THANK YOU SIR
You'll never have a nice straight inside edge by randomly shoving the tape in the corner like that.
Thank you for sharing!!!
Nice no more winging and wasting time
I wish you could do my bathroom lol
La forma que pone la espátula no es la correcta ya que así como le ase ese señor le tendrías que dar muchas pasadas 20 años de teping me respaldan
Just do one side at a time.!
Even then you have cleanup on the opposit side. so why not save time and get it done as fast as possible. Thank you for watching.
Wow this is terrible. You never bang the knife agaist the tape. one because you can rip the tape and two because if the opening is on that side the tape wil sink in and when you apply the compund it as it drys its going to leave a gap on the side where it sunk in. Im a contractor i have been doing this for 15 years. I specialy in plater/taping.
Wow, I guess I have to take my 45 year hat off to your 15. Thank's for watching!
you'll never get a straight edge. plus a third coat. wrong
But it doesnt dscribe i enough detail. Tapering? How much water for different coats. Not helpful
mmmmm neta
Sorry, but your corner is crooked as shit. 2:32? Do we blame the carpenter?