As mentioned by John Doe, you DON'T have to drill out the rivets to remove the motor, however if you have the cable type regulator (most likely), you also want to change the regulator. That thing fails often and begins to drag as it ages. If you window goes up slower than going down (or visa versa), the regulator is probably the cause. I replaced my rivets with stainless steel screws and nylon lock nuts.
The big connector in the door that goes to nothing would be the connector for the door mounted power seat controls. To save money, Ford uses the same harness for all Crown Vic's, so even if you don't have the seats it'll just plug into a blank plug. The same goes for the small connector, which in civilian models is for a lockable trunk release button.
Yeah, I addressed that they put in the wiring for the higher trim models in a previous video. I just didn't know what the big one was, but that makes sense because I do recall seeing seat controls on the door panel of someone's Crown Vic. I do question whether it is really less expensive to add unused wires and connectors throughout the car, but they must have decided that it is.
Hey Gary, please don't listen to the haters and keep making videos I really appreciate it. That being said , would there be any reason that you can think of that would cause the two front windows not to roll down? Used known good switches, I just have a hard time believing both motors died at once. Thanks again for everything you do on UA-cam.
hook up a multimeter to the window motor and hit the switch. Do you have power at the motor? If not check at the switch. If you have power at the switch output and not at the motor, there is a break somewhere between. If power at the switch input but not output you have a bad switch. If power at the motor, probably have a bad motor. I agree that 2 motors both going bad at the same time is unlikely.
My problem is: Different windows stop and start working at random. For a couple of days my front driver side stopped then when it started the front passenger side stopped. Question: do these run though a computer? I wouldn't think so.
A little late on your question but no just get a new window regulator and a new window switch, Switches are pretty cheap on ebay this way you can take the guess work out of it FYI I have a P71 09 myself been there done that hope this helps somebody out there,
My windows would not operate on an auction CVPI. Went through the fuses and relays and circuit breakers. Headlights would oddly come on with the ignition on. Guess what? The guys who stripped the cop stuff off the car at the city yard decided to remove a factory grounding lug at the passenger kick panel. I stumbled into it by accident and both problems were solved. I almost sprained my shoulder while patting myself on the back.
Okay. On my 2011 p71, my window just doesn't go up or down, yet when I press the button to open & close, I can clearly hear the motor and movement of the mechanism inside the door. Is it possible the window is just out of alignment or something just connecting any more? Because I can hear the motor operate when I press it. The window even rattles a tad each time. ?
I have a pesky driver window , goes down fine , but it’s the divinci code to get it to power up . Using two hands and just the right angle on button . And it’ll work with a couple try’s
you should be able to hook up 12v from the car and it should only pull the amps that it needs. To be extra safe you ought to run it from fused power rather than direct to the battery though
please help! 3 of my windows went out in my 2010 P7B all at the same time, lock switches work on the drivers module as well as passenger. only one rear windows from drivers switch goes up and down other windows dont work at all doubt its the motor or regulator on all windows.. what would be the likely problem
How are you I’m having a few problems. On my 2000 crown Vic lx my windows only work with the driver door controls but the passenger unlock and lock still work fine. My keyless entry code on door won’t work; one of the numbers on the panel won’t light up but all other do. And I just recently bought an after market key fob to unlock doors but it won’t program to car an advice would help thanks
always start with simple and work from there. Make sure you don't have the window "lockout" switch activated on your driver door panel. Beyond that it sounds like an electrical problem and that could be easy or crazy difficult to track down depending on what is going on. My guess based on the issues you are having is damage tio wires inside the door. Good luck!
If you only have to change the motor you do not have to drill out the rivets. Just remove the screws and the motor comes right out. I have a video up showing how I did it on my grand marquis.
You should amend this video so that there aren't a bunch of poor bastards drilling rivets for no reason - if nothing else, maybe put a little PSA at the top of the video description...with that said, props for the truly "shade-tree" nature of your video, I felt your pain when it started to rain, haha - that took me back 20-years to a parking lot and replacing the starter on my '92 explorer!
if it were me, while I had everything apart, I'd go ahead and replace, because sooner or later all the components will fail, may as well do the job once.
All my connections are connected in the pillar and in the door. Both back doors and the passenger door panels will not go down at the specific door control. Driver door controls everything. Help? There is also a purple and yellow connector in the drivers door?
Possible option on police Interceptor version - I have one (2007) & recall an enable switch for rear windows (& rear door locks from driver switch only)
you're saying no power at the source or no power after the switch? Check your fuse panel and make sure there is power to it... anything is possible with these cars. I've seen some outrageous downfitting where they just cut wire after wire for no reason
It's a Delaware state trooper car. I followed the wires from the pillar to the front by the dash and unwrapped the electrical tape to it. All fuses are working because I can control the windows from the driver's door only. I'm at a loss?
All wires have been intact (inside the doors, pillars, and to the front..up to the dashboard. I was hoping it was simple the the door pillar connector or a fuse. Are you aware of any other possibilities?
if your talking about that little rectangular plug it IS for a trumk button on drivers door, & problE wired through trunk button on dash... if you ever lock keys in trunk, all’s ya gotta du is connect the 2 Yrz & pop scadap🤚
you should leave the video making to the people with the know how. Mickey mousing the repairs like you do in all your videos is just the sure way to end up having to redo them shortly after. Leave the video making to the people with the actual know how.
As mentioned by John Doe, you DON'T have to drill out the rivets to remove the motor, however if you have the cable type regulator (most likely), you also want to change the regulator. That thing fails often and begins to drag as it ages. If you window goes up slower than going down (or visa versa), the regulator is probably the cause. I replaced my rivets with stainless steel screws and nylon lock nuts.
The big connector in the door that goes to nothing would be the connector for the door mounted power seat controls. To save money, Ford uses the same harness for all Crown Vic's, so even if you don't have the seats it'll just plug into a blank plug. The same goes for the small connector, which in civilian models is for a lockable trunk release button.
Yeah, I addressed that they put in the wiring for the higher trim models in a previous video. I just didn't know what the big one was, but that makes sense because I do recall seeing seat controls on the door panel of someone's Crown Vic. I do question whether it is really less expensive to add unused wires and connectors throughout the car, but they must have decided that it is.
For others to ensure it is bad regulator motor: connect regulator motor to battery to test it to be sure it does not work
Hey Gary, please don't listen to the haters and keep making videos I really appreciate it. That being said , would there be any reason that you can think of that would cause the two front windows not to roll down? Used known good switches, I just have a hard time believing both motors died at once. Thanks again for everything you do on UA-cam.
hook up a multimeter to the window motor and hit the switch. Do you have power at the motor? If not check at the switch. If you have power at the switch output and not at the motor, there is a break somewhere between. If power at the switch input but not output you have a bad switch. If power at the motor, probably have a bad motor. I agree that 2 motors both going bad at the same time is unlikely.
My problem is: Different windows stop and start working at random. For a couple of days my front driver side stopped then when it started the front passenger side stopped. Question: do these run though a computer? I wouldn't think so.
A little late on your question but no just get a new window regulator and a new window switch, Switches are pretty cheap on ebay this way you can take the guess work out of it FYI I have a P71 09 myself been there done that hope this helps somebody out there,
Drill out the rivets and use 10mm bolts .
My windows would not operate on an auction CVPI. Went through the fuses and relays and circuit breakers. Headlights would oddly come on with the ignition on. Guess what? The guys who stripped the cop stuff off the car at the city yard decided to remove a factory grounding lug at the passenger kick panel. I stumbled into it by accident and both problems were solved. I almost sprained my shoulder while patting myself on the back.
great find and fix! it's unfortunate that there isn't a more standardized downfitting/decommissioning process.
Okay. On my 2011 p71, my window just doesn't go up or down, yet when I press the button to open & close, I can clearly hear the motor and movement of the mechanism inside the door. Is it possible the window is just out of alignment or something just connecting any more? Because I can hear the motor operate when I press it. The window even rattles a tad each time. ?
I have a pesky driver window , goes down fine , but it’s the divinci code to get it to power up . Using two hands and just the right angle on button . And it’ll work with a couple try’s
my guess is the switch is bad - might just need to clean the contacts on the "up" side
@@WJHandyDad thanks for the help, definitely worth trying . If not I’ll replace it and be a satisfying mini project 😂
Since it’s plug n play , I can’t fail 😂
if i wanted to override the motor at the main plug just to get the window up how much power do i use for the motor?
you should be able to hook up 12v from the car and it should only pull the amps that it needs. To be extra safe you ought to run it from fused power rather than direct to the battery though
@@WJHandyDad ok so an ash tray plug split the wire and put a 10 amp fuse in it?
that should work
please help! 3 of my windows went out in my 2010 P7B all at the same time, lock switches work on the drivers module as well as passenger. only one rear windows from drivers switch goes up and down other windows dont work at all doubt its the motor or regulator on all windows.. what would be the likely problem
if 3 all went out at once that sounds like a wire or switch problem. It's highly unlikely that 3 motors would all go out simultaneously
How are you I’m having a few problems. On my 2000 crown Vic lx my windows only work with the driver door controls but the passenger unlock and lock still work fine. My keyless entry code on door won’t work; one of the numbers on the panel won’t light up but all other do. And I just recently bought an after market key fob to unlock doors but it won’t program to car an advice would help thanks
always start with simple and work from there. Make sure you don't have the window "lockout" switch activated on your driver door panel. Beyond that it sounds like an electrical problem and that could be easy or crazy difficult to track down depending on what is going on. My guess based on the issues you are having is damage tio wires inside the door. Good luck!
If you only have to change the motor you do not have to drill out the rivets. Just remove the screws and the motor comes right out. I have a video up showing how I did it on my grand marquis.
Too late for me, but thank you for sharing that.
You should amend this video so that there aren't a bunch of poor bastards drilling rivets for no reason - if nothing else, maybe put a little PSA at the top of the video description...with that said, props for the truly "shade-tree" nature of your video, I felt your pain when it started to rain, haha - that took me back 20-years to a parking lot and replacing the starter on my '92 explorer!
Yeah but then the gear and cable fall apart. Then you have to deal with that.
Did you not have a DDM Door Device Module on drivers door at bottom near hinge?
Hay thanks for the video man ,
The switch worked well enough to drop the window. Does that mean there is a better chance the regulator is ok ?
if it were me, while I had everything apart, I'd go ahead and replace, because sooner or later all the components will fail, may as well do the job once.
Hey did u ever figure out what that wire group goes too, I hav one too in my p71??
Probably power driver seat.. My last 2 cars had it, and now my current doesn't.
Yes it’s for the power driver seat switch
What setting is the multimeter on?
I'm not looking at the video, but if my memory is correct, it's DC volts because if I remember we were looking to see when we got 12v
So what setting is the multimeter on?
What if all windows wont go down?
that sounds more like a blown fuse/cut wire problem - you need to check with a multimeter and see if you have any power there and go from there.
All my connections are connected in the pillar and in the door. Both back doors and the passenger door panels will not go down at the specific door control. Driver door controls everything. Help? There is also a purple and yellow connector in the drivers door?
did they cut wires somewhere between the pillar and the door?
Have same exact situation. How did you fix it, brother
Possible option on police Interceptor version - I have one (2007) & recall an enable switch for rear windows (& rear door locks from driver switch only)
I am trying to figure out why is my window not rolling down.
Power seat
Good demonstration but it's hard to hear what you're saying
audio problems will hopefully be a thing of the past - I've gotten much better microphones since this video was filmed
I traced both wires to the front dash and gave up. No power to the plus. Fuses are in also
you're saying no power at the source or no power after the switch? Check your fuse panel and make sure there is power to it... anything is possible with these cars. I've seen some outrageous downfitting where they just cut wire after wire for no reason
It's a Delaware state trooper car. I followed the wires from the pillar to the front by the dash and unwrapped the electrical tape to it. All fuses are working because I can control the windows from the driver's door only. I'm at a loss?
All wires have been intact (inside the doors, pillars, and to the front..up to the dashboard. I was hoping it was simple the the door pillar connector or a fuse. Are you aware of any other possibilities?
if your talking about that little rectangular plug it IS for a trumk button on drivers door, & problE wired through trunk button on dash... if you ever lock keys in trunk, all’s ya gotta du is connect the 2 Yrz & pop scadap🤚
Dude what about when all the windows don’t go down
you can still use this method to check them. If they all went out simultaneously that sounds like a fuse though
IT HAS TO BE ECLETRICALLY ALL DONW WORK DOES HAVE A RELAY WHERE
I need help with this, anyone's nearby? 09 crown vic. Thankx🎉
are you asking for mechanic recommendations or hoping on of my viewers is local to you? What part of the country are you in?
@@WJHandyDadsorry I just want to fix the thing myself and not screw something up, I'm pretty smart. 🎉
Ma boy sounds depressed as f***
you should leave the video making to the people with the know how. Mickey mousing the repairs like you do in all your videos is just the sure way to end up having to redo them shortly after. Leave the video making to the people with the actual know how.
what repairs do you think I've done wrong? I haven't had to re-repair hardly anything
You're an idiot