You need to do this like a drum head ... do not go in a circle, but instead do one, then the diagonally opposite one. Sort of a star pattern. Will be a little weird on the rectangle, but the concept will work. This will ensure equal tension all around.
I live in Australia, instead of gatoraid cap i used a Farmhouse Gold Milk cap, worked well... Thanks for doing this video btw, as i didnt look forward to doing it nor felt i could until i seen it done Thanks Mate
Good video 100% correct the few needs to be looseishas tensions up when fitting back to vat tight even when loose like this! I just took my new mono 2 apart to see how it is new its exactly the same when you unscrew it from the vat! Maybe why people complain so much about the print not sticking to build plate it's pulling off with the fep to tight
thanks for the tutorial , its was very clear how well the Fep get the correct tension when yuo put all thats screws, and the way yuo put them, from the center, well i need to this ...
lol i put cap on plastic spatula that cape with printer to add bit more thickness when was doing it , lasted me about a year can prob do more but see what looks like tiny tear although it doesnt leak but wont hurt changing didnt pull edges, once you start tightening the screws it all evens out
Thanks for the instructions on how to replace the sheets. I just ordered some new sheets for mine, but my sheets have a mate and glossy side. Do you know what side goes up to hold the resin in?
Have you ever thought about the orientation of the knife slit (vertical vs horizontal)? Just thought when pushing the screws into the FEP or nFEP or when tightening the frame would the slit continue / propagate into the vat.
That is a good point. It’s never happened to me, but that isn’t to say that it couldn’t. I like the knife so it doesn’t stretch the fep. it stays right where I put it, but making the cuts purposely horizontal with the frame is a good idea.
How about melting the holes ... like with a soldering iron, or a hot needle/screw? That way your holes won't have stress-risers, but rather a circle of thicker FEP around it. I don't know ... In theory that would be stronger. Right?
I'm having an issue with replacing my FEP. I used both a Gatorade cap and the spacer from thingiverse. Made sure both were clean first with IPA. On both occasions they left a ring mark on the FEP... Not sure what to do about that, any suggestions? No issues otherwise. Prints seem fine but i ended up having to replace the FEP sooner than a factory fresh ones. Thanks for the videos, very helpful!
First, thank you for the detailed video. It's great. Now on to my question. I followed the steps as I was installing the FEP. It stayed flexible until I put the frame back in the tray and screwed it in. Now it's taught again! I'm not sure where I went wrong.
I think you should not tighten the screws in circular order, you will end up with different tensions on the fep, and also you should be more careful how you use your knife to make those slits, try to make them parallel to the frame, that way the slit will not continue to the center of the fep.
Great video! I tried to change the FEP on my Mono X but when I was installing it I lost one of the tiny screws that hold the FEP between the two aluminum frame pieces. Do you know where can I get those?
My mono 2 fep is not straight across its got like a 1mm fold down and right around the surrounding scew in frame its weird its brand new printer so just wondering if the mono 2 will need official replacements for this stamped step down fep instead of like my mono 4k its just a straight across replacement so my mono 2 vat must sit higher than the screen it weird id need to show you a photo of it I've never seen it press stamped before
I was always worried that the X-acto knife would cause a tear, Since it cuts a straight line, so I ordered and use Syringe needles to puncture the FEP. It may make no difference in the end, but it makes me feel better, and for $5, it's worth it to me.
Are there any other variables to look out for when using your printed spacer? Is it as simple as install the fep with the spacer then not have to worry about tension at all or do I still need to carefully tension the fep?
That's smart. I don't want any scratches. I just got mine and am not super pro like you guys yet. Test print etc worked fine, I'm not total tard, but details like that I would miss.
I was using my bottle top that I used for my Photon S FEP change. I noticed on Anycubic's video they stated a bottle top 13mm high. My top is 10mm so I will print a top / disc 13mm high now I know why the height is important. Something you cared to let us know why but Anycubic didn't, Thanks.
Thank you for the video! I'm going to try this out because I think I need to change my fep film. The model I printed keeps sticking to fep film :( I tried adding the support but sometimes it isn't worked out. I also using anycubic photon mono x. Do you have any tips about my problem? I never have that problem with my photon mono :(
Hello friend, excellent video, thanks a lot for this useful content. Please share with us the total height objects that you use to tense FEP film (gatorade cap height more the other things)
It’s fabulous. I got my Mini 4k over a year ago. Put on an NFEP and lubed it whenever I cleaned it and I just now need to replace the fep. I still to check but I probably have 100 prints on it.
Great video I've just bought this machine and I've just started to print the camp off from you I need to replace my fep film but am glad I've watched your videos I only use these machines for my model railway do you know of any sites I can download for free?? Cheers Paul
Hey, I recently decided to change my old FEP in the mono x with a new one, but it turned out not so great. The first prints were as good as expected but than they got messy and the FEP sheet looked like the old one in nearly some days of printing. The old one hold for nearly two months of printing. Anyone might now what I got wrong, as I used the common change "tactics" for FEP changing, or is there something I didnt thought about doing the change or restriction of use?
If you really want to dial it in, determine the required in/lbs and torque it with a torque wrench. If the screws don't bottom out, then the torque wrench would work great. Is all that necessary? Absolutely not. But it would be a fun exercise for those that are super particular about such things.
HIya, thanks for the fab tutorial, this is now the 2nd time ive had to change my FEP in about a month. I was wondering what is the english version of the PTFE Lube you use? Im asking because when i click your link it sends me to lots of alternitives, so im guessing we cant get that brand in the uk. Thanks in advance for your help :)
Sorry for the delay. I would put something under the cap like I do in the video to get a little more elevation. Or if you have another working printer I have the perfect size (IMHO) spacer you can print in the description.
Can you share your Mono X print settings? I tried to print your spacer and just got a blob on the bottom of the vat. I think it might be cause i followed 3dprinting pros settings for the initial burn in layers. Thanks!
I can when I get to my PC. I printed mine on my FDM printer. I would recommend supporting this. Maybe I’ll do a presupported version and upload that too.
I'd like to request this as well. New to 3d printing and got the mono x but I've been having mixed (mostly poor) results. Have tried the Anycubic and Elegoo greys with little success.
Hey Eli, check out this spreadsheet. I printed it out. I use this as a guide. Also check your screen. See if you see any dried resin on it. If so clean and install a new FEP.
I have the Phrozen nFEP too. It measures exactly the same as the EPAX NFEP, 0.125mm. Your installation was perfect except I would have made the slits parallel to the frame. I do disagree with your reason for the film to be loose or have slack. The reason for that, is so that it will fit into the frame of the vat. If it was taught from the beginning, you'd never get it seated within the vat frame. Your application of the PTFE is perfect also. Very good video. 👍 P.S. My Mighty 4K arrived on Monday. It came with FEP not nFEP. I have the aluminum vat for it also.
Looking through the comments to see if anyone had already commented this. I agree. I'm just a newbie to resin printing, but the end result is a tight fep, so the "peel" explanation didn't fit. Functionally a good howto video, just the theory behind that step is a little off.
Good except tightening should be opposite screws going around and the lube has already been evaluated by 3-D printer companies and it does absolutely nothing if anything it contaminates the Resin.
Hello Can you please update the file on thingiverse to a rectangular spacer as you are dealing with a rectangular Perimeter not a circle or bottle cap, kind regards GG.
@@TrueEliteGeek i level it many times. The problem is that the test print already failed. That is without use of any software yet. So the test file on the usb stick are ready to print.
Just for scientific porpouse, how much tension did you get from the fep installed this way? 180 eish? The purpose of tune the fep isn't to have some room to the eventual strech? Ptfe strech like nothing else, without that room to play you cannot take the eventual strech that is going to happen..
The tune on the FEP was 166hz both before I started with the old FEP and the new one after the install. That way the main goal is to get this so if people use the spacer I made they can tighten the FEP down all the way and it will come out perfect. You can’t do that with every vat but fortunately with the mono-X we can. It’s much easier when the instructions just let you tighten it down all the way. This is set so it will stretch perfectly. I have two prints on it since this was recorded and they are great.
@@TrueEliteGeek i'm not questioning your method 😉 but it will strech and can lead to premature replacement . With 13mm gatorade stile cap it was the tune i have and barely pass the lip. Tomorrow i will try to tune to 166 and print something 👍
It’s supposed to stretch. That is how they all come right out of the factory. The is the one thing I don’t care for with the Sovol vat. That one I can’t just tighten down all the way. I have to tune it just right. But the Mono-X and Proxima vats are very well designed so you can tighten them all the way and get the correct tune.
And feel free to question my methods. I just show what works for me. But we are all aways learning so it wouldn’t be the first time I do an update video to make it even better.
@@TrueEliteGeek i notice when removing the original fep that some bolts were barely touching, i havent mess arround with the vat until fep change because i was a littel afraid to overtension. After i saw your video of the screen saver for the mono, i couldn't not arrest until switched the original one :D thanks :D it's a big true, we are always learning 👍👍
A bottle cap is not a unit of measure, they're all different. For those that wonder 10-15mm is a good height for a spacer. The shorter the spacer the lower lift height you can get away with at a cost of increased peel forces.
Why do others on UA-cam recommend that the FEP film be as taught as a drum head? This is confusing. Always tighten the bolts in the same manner one would tighten the bolts on a engine cylinder head... 1,7,2,8,3,9,4,10,5,11,6,12.
...I just screw it all the way down and that's it!... I only have problems with not having proper tension (not screwed all the way) I don't know what you are talking about here...
EPAX NFEP Large: geni.us/EPAX-NFEP-Large Standard FEP for the Mono-X: geni.us/MonoXFEP (You want 0.15mm) Spare Mono-X Build Plate: geni.us/MonoXBuildPlate Spare Mono-X Vat: geni.us/MonoXVat Metric Hex Drivers: geni.us/MetricHexDrivers X-Acto Knifes: geni.us/SuperCheapExactoKnives Microfiber Clothes: geni.us/DisposableMicrofiber PTFE Lube: geni.us/PTFELube Isopropyl Alcohol 99%: geni.us/99PercentIPA My Favorite Resin Rakings: www.elitegeek.net/water-washable-resin-review/ I made this spacer you can print for getting the FEP just right: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741088 This is my current giveaway: geni.us/EliteGeekGiveaway Installing a new FEP in the Anycubic Photon Mono-X is pretty easy. In this video I walk through my process so it works perfectly and doesn’t require any tuning. Using the spacer I designed and EPAX NFEP it will come out perfect. If this was helpful consider buying me a coffee so I can make more videos: www.buymeacoffee.com/TrueEliteGeek Or I will be going behind the scenes on Patreon Soon: www.patreon.com/EliteGeek Just want to support the channel at no cost to you? You can with these links: Anycubic Store: geni.us/AnycubicStore Phrozen Store: geni.us/PhrozenStore Elegoo Store: geni.us/ElegooStore Sovol Store: geni.us/Sovol3DStore Epax3D Store: geni.us/Epax3DStore Banggood: bit.ly/DR101-Banggood Amazon: bit.ly/DR101-Amazon ************************************************** Subscribe and be a EliteGeek! : ua-cam.com/users/TrueEliteGeek Enjoy & remember to like and subscribe! -- Find Elite Geek Online! -- Facebook: facebook.com/EliteGeekMinis Instagram: instagram.com/EliteGeekMinis Patreon: www.patreon.com/TrueEliteGeek Elite Geek is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs, advertising programs designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com and other sites at no addition cost to you. Thank you for supporting Elite Geek by using these links. Testing all this hardware is quite expensive.
You need to do this like a drum head ... do not go in a circle, but instead do one, then the diagonally opposite one. Sort of a star pattern. Will be a little weird on the rectangle, but the concept will work. This will ensure equal tension all around.
I hear it's better to start from a center point rather than a corner as the corners are best left for tensioning at the end. Not diagonals first.
@@Mad_Catter_anycubic tells you to do it at the corners in their video on the subject
I live in Australia, instead of gatoraid cap i used a Farmhouse Gold Milk cap, worked well...
Thanks for doing this video btw, as i didnt look forward to doing it nor felt i could until i seen it done
Thanks Mate
i just replaced my fep and its flawless . Thank you !
For all those asking. The STL's height is 17mm according to Lychee. Would still recommend printing the STL if you can before changing.
Thank you so very much! This worked out great, printed the spacer on my FDM Prusa and put a piece of microfiber cloth on it.
Good video 100% correct the few needs to be looseishas tensions up when fitting back to vat tight even when loose like this! I just took my new mono 2 apart to see how it is new its exactly the same when you unscrew it from the vat! Maybe why people complain so much about the print not sticking to build plate it's pulling off with the fep to tight
Super good instructional vid. I would as a bonus tighten like you do with low torque and step it up slowly, but in a criss cross patteren like 120°
thanks for the tutorial , its was very clear how well the Fep get the correct tension when yuo put all thats screws, and the way yuo put them, from the center, well i need to this ...
The Pickiness is needed for 3d Printers Great Video
Thank you. This made me so happy as I'm about to change my FEP for the first time.
lol i put cap on plastic spatula that cape with printer to add bit more thickness when was doing it , lasted me about a year can prob do more but see what looks like tiny tear although it doesnt leak
but wont hurt changing
didnt pull edges, once you start tightening the screws it all evens out
Thanks for the instructions on how to replace the sheets. I just ordered some new sheets for mine, but my sheets have a mate and glossy side. Do you know what side goes up to hold the resin in?
I would recommend glossy side up as you don't want the object to stick to hard to the Fep
Have you ever thought about the orientation of the knife slit (vertical vs horizontal)? Just thought when pushing the screws into the FEP or nFEP or when tightening the frame would the slit continue / propagate into the vat.
That is a good point. It’s never happened to me, but that isn’t to say that it couldn’t. I like the knife so it doesn’t stretch the fep. it stays right where I put it, but making the cuts purposely horizontal with the frame is a good idea.
How about melting the holes ... like with a soldering iron, or a hot needle/screw?
That way your holes won't have stress-risers, but rather a circle of thicker FEP around it.
I don't know ... In theory that would be stronger. Right?
When i used this method the last screws were hard to install and the fep was really tight, is that bad
I wish they still sold frames with preinstalled FEP for the mono X.
We would all buy em lol
they do! but its expensive, it costs 60 euros, 70 dollars
I'm having an issue with replacing my FEP. I used both a Gatorade cap and the spacer from thingiverse. Made sure both were clean first with IPA. On both occasions they left a ring mark on the FEP... Not sure what to do about that, any suggestions? No issues otherwise. Prints seem fine but i ended up having to replace the FEP sooner than a factory fresh ones.
Thanks for the videos, very helpful!
First, thank you for the detailed video. It's great. Now on to my question. I followed the steps as I was installing the FEP. It stayed flexible until I put the frame back in the tray and screwed it in. Now it's taught again! I'm not sure where I went wrong.
It is supposed to be taught. Using the spacer makes it just right though. Not too tight, not too loose.
Ohhh!!! Got it. Thank you!
I think you should not tighten the screws in circular order, you will end up with different tensions on the fep, and also you should be more careful how you use your knife to make those slits, try to make them parallel to the frame, that way the slit will not continue to the center of the fep.
Great video! I tried to change the FEP on my Mono X but when I was installing it I lost one of the tiny screws that hold the FEP between the two aluminum frame pieces. Do you know where can I get those?
Will the spacer you have on Thingiverse work for the M3 Plus that you know of?
My dude, you are amazing and thank you for the spacer! :)
Thanks for this! Had my Mono X for a few weeks, and need to replace my FEP,!
I just replaced my FEP and this was very helpful! Thank you very much!
My mono 2 fep is not straight across its got like a 1mm fold down and right around the surrounding scew in frame its weird its brand new printer so just wondering if the mono 2 will need official replacements for this stamped step down fep instead of like my mono 4k its just a straight across replacement so my mono 2 vat must sit higher than the screen it weird id need to show you a photo of it I've never seen it press stamped before
Been waiting for this, thanks! :)
Glad to help. Feel free to share anywhere you think it will be helpful. 😁
hi I wanted to ask if you don't mind sharing your slicer settings for the anycubic mono X It will be much appreciated thank you
GREAT VIDEO . THANK. DO YOU HAVE SPACER MODEL FOR THE PHOTON MONO
I was always worried that the X-acto knife would cause a tear, Since it cuts a straight line, so I ordered and use Syringe needles to puncture the FEP. It may make no difference in the end, but it makes me feel better, and for $5, it's worth it to me.
A bradawl works really well too
@@benvaughan4838 I use a toothpick.
A naive question: are the two sides of the film the same? If not, how do we tell which side should face the resin?
Wondering; would this spacer work with the Flashforge Foto 8.9? If not, what mm height would you suggested? Thanks
Are there any other variables to look out for when using your printed spacer? Is it as simple as install the fep with the spacer then not have to worry about tension at all or do I still need to carefully tension the fep?
What is the dimensions in mm of the gatorade cap?
Hey just wondering, what are the dimensions in that cap? I know we don't have Gatorade here and I can't use my printer at the moment lol.
There is a link to a printable stl for it in the description.
Some caps will scratch the FEP - just throw a microfiber cloth over it
That's smart. I don't want any scratches. I just got mine and am not super pro like you guys yet. Test print etc worked fine, I'm not total tard, but details like that I would miss.
I was using my bottle top that I used for my Photon S FEP change. I noticed on Anycubic's video they stated a bottle top 13mm high. My top is 10mm so I will print a top / disc 13mm high now I know why the height is important. Something you cared to let us know why but Anycubic didn't, Thanks.
Thank you for the video! I'm going to try this out because I think I need to change my fep film. The model I printed keeps sticking to fep film :( I tried adding the support but sometimes it isn't worked out. I also using anycubic photon mono x. Do you have any tips about my problem? I never have that problem with my photon mono :(
Hello friend, excellent video, thanks a lot for this useful content. Please share with us the total height objects that you use to tense FEP film (gatorade cap height more the other things)
I can't get to it at the moment. But check the thingiverse link for the spacer I made. That will show you the exact dimensions I use.
I used his spacer to change my FEP and it worked perfectly!
Very useful. Thank you very much.
Nice Video till You use PTFE lube....
How's that oiled FEP working out for ya?
It’s fabulous. I got my Mini 4k over a year ago. Put on an NFEP and lubed it whenever I cleaned it and I just now need to replace the fep. I still to check but I probably have 100 prints on it.
How high do you set your z-lift?
Great video I've just bought this machine and I've just started to print the camp off from you I need to replace my fep film but am glad I've watched your videos I only use these machines for my model railway do you know of any sites I can download for free?? Cheers Paul
Doe's this actually work as that looks like theres far more play..?
Thanks for this man
I can't get 3in1 :/
Great video, a torque wrench may be a good idea
So will the larger cap actually reduce the tightness of the fep?
Hey, I recently decided to change my old FEP in the mono x with a new one, but it turned out not so great. The first prints were as good as expected but than they got messy and the FEP sheet looked like the old one in nearly some days of printing. The old one hold for nearly two months of printing. Anyone might now what I got wrong, as I used the common change "tactics" for FEP changing, or is there something I didnt thought about doing the change or restriction of use?
If you really want to dial it in, determine the required in/lbs and torque it with a torque wrench. If the screws don't bottom out, then the torque wrench would work great. Is all that necessary? Absolutely not. But it would be a fun exercise for those that are super particular about such things.
Thank you so much! it went flawlessly my good nerd sir! :P
Thanks a bunch!
HIya, thanks for the fab tutorial, this is now the 2nd time ive had to change my FEP in about a month. I was wondering what is the english version of the PTFE Lube you use? Im asking because when i click your link it sends me to lots of alternitives, so im guessing we cant get that brand in the uk. Thanks in advance for your help :)
This has worked well for me: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000Y8Q6SI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
what would you recommend in mm the height spacer? Different caps are different heights
There is a link in the description you can print for my exact recommendation
A guy uptstair said 13 mm high (anycubic recomendation)
I'm about to do this today, Can I use a 2 liter bottle cap? ( american 2 liter bottle ) ?
Sorry for the delay. I would put something under the cap like I do in the video to get a little more elevation. Or if you have another working printer I have the perfect size (IMHO) spacer you can print in the description.
@@TrueEliteGeek Thank you I have a Gatorade bottle cap that was perfect
Can you share your Mono X print settings? I tried to print your spacer and just got a blob on the bottom of the vat. I think it might be cause i followed 3dprinting pros settings for the initial burn in layers. Thanks!
I can when I get to my PC. I printed mine on my FDM printer. I would recommend supporting this. Maybe I’ll do a presupported version and upload that too.
Thank! I did print one on my FDM printer. Would still like to know what Mono X settings are?
I'd like to request this as well. New to 3d printing and got the mono x but I've been having mixed (mostly poor) results. Have tried the Anycubic and Elegoo greys with little success.
Hey Eli, check out this spreadsheet. I printed it out. I use this as a guide. Also check your screen. See if you see any dried resin on it. If so clean and install a new FEP.
Search for Mono X printer settings. You should find a google spreadsheet. I tried to post the link but kept getting errors.
I subbed just for the disclaimer song
good job.
I have the Phrozen nFEP too. It measures exactly the same as the EPAX NFEP, 0.125mm.
Your installation was perfect except I would have made the slits parallel to the frame.
I do disagree with your reason for the film to be loose or have slack. The reason for that, is so that it will fit into the frame of the vat. If it was taught from the beginning, you'd never get it seated within the vat frame.
Your application of the PTFE is perfect also. Very good video. 👍
P.S. My Mighty 4K arrived on Monday. It came with FEP not nFEP. I have the aluminum vat for it also.
Looking through the comments to see if anyone had already commented this. I agree. I'm just a newbie to resin printing, but the end result is a tight fep, so the "peel" explanation didn't fit. Functionally a good howto video, just the theory behind that step is a little off.
Question, screw, are not good quality, for the vat. Where can you find them at really having issues finding it. Any help would be great.
I have the same problem. Broke two of the screws and need to find new ones...
Good except tightening should be opposite screws going around and the lube has already been evaluated by 3-D printer companies and it does absolutely nothing if anything it contaminates the Resin.
Hello Can you please update the file on thingiverse to a rectangular spacer as you are dealing with a rectangular Perimeter not a circle or bottle cap, kind regards GG.
All prints are sticking on the fep :(
Try leveling again and increase you base exposure time 25%
@@TrueEliteGeek i level it many times.
The problem is that the test print already failed.
That is without use of any software yet.
So the test file on the usb stick are ready to print.
The test files are usually good. But even those settings can vary depending your resin. I would also check to see if your build plate is flat.
Just for scientific porpouse, how much tension did you get from the fep installed this way? 180 eish? The purpose of tune the fep isn't to have some room to the eventual strech? Ptfe strech like nothing else, without that room to play you cannot take the eventual strech that is going to happen..
The tune on the FEP was 166hz both before I started with the old FEP and the new one after the install. That way the main goal is to get this so if people use the spacer I made they can tighten the FEP down all the way and it will come out perfect. You can’t do that with every vat but fortunately with the mono-X we can. It’s much easier when the instructions just let you tighten it down all the way. This is set so it will stretch perfectly. I have two prints on it since this was recorded and they are great.
@@TrueEliteGeek i'm not questioning your method 😉 but it will strech and can lead to premature replacement . With 13mm gatorade stile cap it was the tune i have and barely pass the lip. Tomorrow i will try to tune to 166 and print something 👍
It’s supposed to stretch. That is how they all come right out of the factory. The is the one thing I don’t care for with the Sovol vat. That one I can’t just tighten down all the way. I have to tune it just right. But the Mono-X and Proxima vats are very well designed so you can tighten them all the way and get the correct tune.
And feel free to question my methods. I just show what works for me. But we are all aways learning so it wouldn’t be the first time I do an update video to make it even better.
@@TrueEliteGeek i notice when removing the original fep that some bolts were barely touching, i havent mess arround with the vat until fep change because i was a littel afraid to overtension. After i saw your video of the screen saver for the mono, i couldn't not arrest until switched the original one :D thanks :D it's a big true, we are always learning 👍👍
A bottle cap is not a unit of measure, they're all different. For those that wonder 10-15mm is a good height for a spacer. The shorter the spacer the lower lift height you can get away with at a cost of increased peel forces.
Why would you not just say high of x
Why do others on UA-cam recommend that the FEP film be as taught as a drum head? This is confusing. Always tighten the bolts in the same manner one would tighten the bolts on a engine cylinder head... 1,7,2,8,3,9,4,10,5,11,6,12.
...I just screw it all the way down and that's it!... I only have problems with not having proper tension (not screwed all the way) I don't know what you are talking about here...
So Im still waiting on the easy part... Looks like it takes about an hour atleast for the first time.
Спасибо! Весьма познавательно!
EPAX NFEP Large: geni.us/EPAX-NFEP-Large
Standard FEP for the Mono-X: geni.us/MonoXFEP (You want 0.15mm)
Spare Mono-X Build Plate: geni.us/MonoXBuildPlate
Spare Mono-X Vat: geni.us/MonoXVat
Metric Hex Drivers: geni.us/MetricHexDrivers
X-Acto Knifes: geni.us/SuperCheapExactoKnives
Microfiber Clothes: geni.us/DisposableMicrofiber
PTFE Lube: geni.us/PTFELube
Isopropyl Alcohol 99%: geni.us/99PercentIPA
My Favorite Resin Rakings: www.elitegeek.net/water-washable-resin-review/
I made this spacer you can print for getting the FEP just right: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741088
This is my current giveaway: geni.us/EliteGeekGiveaway
Installing a new FEP in the Anycubic Photon Mono-X is pretty easy. In this video I walk through my process so it works perfectly and doesn’t require any tuning. Using the spacer I designed and EPAX NFEP it will come out perfect.
If this was helpful consider buying me a coffee so I can make more videos: www.buymeacoffee.com/TrueEliteGeek
Or I will be going behind the scenes on Patreon Soon: www.patreon.com/EliteGeek
Just want to support the channel at no cost to you? You can with these links:
Anycubic Store: geni.us/AnycubicStore
Phrozen Store: geni.us/PhrozenStore
Elegoo Store: geni.us/ElegooStore
Sovol Store: geni.us/Sovol3DStore
Epax3D Store: geni.us/Epax3DStore
Banggood: bit.ly/DR101-Banggood
Amazon: bit.ly/DR101-Amazon
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Ahhh, ptfe snake oil.
Does nothing, but if it makes you feel good🙄
Nice one, thanks