Rickenbacker 4001 Bass truss rod adjustment tutorial
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2015
- I was frustrated by the lack of a step by step how-to on adjusting Rickenbacker's vintage (pre-1984) truss rod system, so I decided to make a video. You work on your instrument AT YOUR OWN RISK. However, many guitar tech shops also do this procedure incorrectly and damage instruments as well. Hopefully, by doing it yourself, you can avoid that heartache.
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Better late than never - just saw this and it was incredibly helpful. I have a 25 year old 4001 re-issue I hadn't played for some time (tend to use my Hofner now in the studio) and finally switched from Medium Round to Light Flat Wounds . . . lowered the action and got everything in tune. Many thanks for the detailed tutorial and also to the contributors below. The process has now been demystified!
Thanks for the in depth detailed explanation. I’m going to try this for the first time to rescue a 4001. Great video!
Actually seeing this in action explains so much. Very well presented guide...thankyou.
Think I might also start doing this for my other non-Rics instead of just adjusting the rod without fixing the body somewhere.
You’d be surprised how much force you can apply to that neck. I actually mounted mine to the table with a block of wood under the neck joint, and bent the neck down SEVERAL inches (unstrung), then tightened the nuts down. I had to do this, as my bass neck had been horribly mishandled by the previous owner. Also, after years of having roundwound strings on it, those truss rods have lost some tensile strength. I store it with the strings detuned now. I recommend this on all 4001’s.
thank you for a very useful and instructive tutorial. too bad often i can't see what you're doing. anyway, i'll take heed of what you pointed out when i set to adjusting the truss rod on my '78 4001 for the first time in about forty years. yep. there was never a need, or it was pointless because of other imperfections, but after i installed a hipshot bridge, the bass sort of ressurected from aging apathy. the neck leans back too much, so i'm giving it some relief to obtain buzzless super low action.
There's just one nut adjustment missing. ME! I almost went nuts thinking I would have to throw my old 1971 4001 away! Now the neck is finally straight after 20 years and she finally plays great!
Setting the intonation on these is a real joy, too.
Whoever designed them was really taking the piss when it comes to maintenance.
Rickenbackers are a Trojan Horse 🤣 the warranty is stupid, the dual truss-rod is stupid, Rickenbacker doesn't publish any numbers, barely any authorized luthiers, the bridge is a nightmare, the pickups are too bright and low output, the ashtray cover gets in the way of playing, the frets are short, tuning heads are puny, body has little to no contouring, stupid ric-o-box and dual output jacks, etc. did I miss anything? "BUT LEMMY USED ONE" because it was the only bass left behind at his Hawkwind audition even Geddy Lee got rid of his for a Fender Jazz bass. if you see a Rickenbacker in the wild.. do the right thing and run away screaming in the opposite direction.
@@JaseWescott Three of those problems have been solved. The pickups are now wound much hotter (11 to 12k) than old 70's examples (7 to 8k), the rear pickup's tone knob is also a push/pull switch that can either add or remove the .0047µF bass-cut capacitor from the circuit, and as of late 2019, the bridge now has individual saddles with intonation screws at the back of the tailpiece that are far easier to adjust (no more having to loosen and re-tighten the strings for every intonation adjustment). Oh, and if you want a contoured body and no stereo output jack, the 4003S model is a thing.
@@JaseWescott The reason Geddy went to fender was Rickenbacker wouldn't give him a deal for advertising their guitars, Fender were happy to.
This should be stickied as a standard for working on old ricks, thank you for the video.
Wow...you did an excellent job! Thanks now i can try this procedure with faith!
The factory uses a jig that pulls the neck back with a constant force when adjusting the rods....You can use your table clamp for the body..with the addition of a rope tied to the headstock and tied down to a floor anchor, adjust and tie off rope to get neck in position for nut adjustment... Also it is important to make sure you use new steel washers under the adjusting nuts with a tiny bit of molly lube or atleast check the washers are not damaged...This is because the nuts can dig into both the washers and aluminum block....if the nuts are hard to get at ....you can grind down the OD of a socket to make it's wall thinner... Rickenbacker's thoughts on why they want you to use their strings is because the uniform string tension which keeps the dual truss rods close to equal torque... Also the Rick strings are slightly smoother/flatter so they wont chew up the frets as quickly as a typical round wound.. There is truth to that...However I still love the magic of Roto 66 Stainless with a Rick.. When the truss rods are torqued differently to handle a non-uniform string tensions...then the bass could suffer from dead spots aka dead notes...this is when the traveling waves in the separate truss rods are not uniform in torque and length , thus creating canceling nodes..
Great video. Thank you for showing this. Like you, I have always heard how to do it, but have never seen it live.
Rickenbacker seems to be particularly proud of their double truss rod system. I personally think it's a pain in the ass every time you want to adjust your neck. Proper tools are not supplied with the new instruments - well, at least not with mine - stupid inch-size crap that is only still in use in the US, while the whole rest of the world is on metric and, indeed, there is no way you can properly place your nut driver around the nut. it just sucks. And conservative as they are in the US, it will probably never change into a better version. "PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA!"
A very thoughtful and helpful tutorial. Thanks : )
Nice video. Would add that you should keep track of exactly what amount of turns
(down to the 1/4 turn) you are adding or subtracting to a truss. So should you need to "go back" to where you were as you repeat, it is easy to do. Also - as a rule of thumb, unless you are changing string type/gauge you should not be doing a whole lot of turning (2 ,3,4 full rotations) If you are, it can be a symptom of a serious issue (failing truss, wood fatigue) Get yourself one of my thumb rests for your Ric !
This was VERY helpful!!! Thank you.
Very useful video, even though my Rickenbacker is a modern one. I was able to correct a mistake I made last time I attempted to adjust the rods.
excellent. I am about to put this knowledge to a 1980 4001 Maple Glo. Thanks a bunch!
PERFECT EXPLANATION... in every sense! Congrats ftom Brazil!
Thanks for this demo video. My '84 Ric has the nuts at the body end instead of the headstock but the same principles should apply.
EXCELLENT video! Very, very useful! Cheers! ...from Brazil.
Thank you very much! Great job!
Perfect video ! Thank you !
The new 4003 Ric's have a standard dual action - anything 23 and later (look on the jack plate). I got rid if my two 4001's because the hairpin truss stopped keeping the necks in place.
Adjustment should be máx.1/4 turno clockwise? Mor more right? Thankyou!
you should have the strings at tuned tension, before you tighten the truss rods. basically you bend the neck to where the strings touch the frets at tuned tension, then fully tighten the truss rods, job done.
...which is exactly what this video showed, genius.
@@gavinvalentino6002 The strings weren't tuned to pitch.
Wanted a video showing how to do with the latest versions... My Rick got as huge relief... and i tried to adjust the truss rods but get no better... Think that i´ve run both of them until the end. They are stucked... And the relief still there...
Hi gr8 vid mate .But doing this will affect the intonation will it not ,or is this purely for the action in that the trussrod changes the bow of the neck
Hello can you use this.method on a newer one to get it nice and straight
I always thought that the 4001 only had ONE truss and that the 4003 models have a dual truss rod system, hence the discernibly thicker /fatter necks on the 4003 models?
Would you do the same on a hollow-body 360-12 String??
Thank you... valuable info.....
I have a 1978 like yours . Would you give me the name of someone that would fix my truss rod problem. They have the tip at the end bent so I can't remove them
Are you using flat wounds on your Ricky? And if so, which ones?
Thanxalot for your video, I made it that way and the Ergebnis is wunderbar! Herzliche Grüße :-)
What year is this bass?
My 2017 4003 manual just says you can adjust the truss rod just like a regular bass, it doesn’t mention to clamp down the body and bend the neck before adjusting the trussrods. I need to tighten mine but not sure how to go about it. Guess I’ll try to find a Rickenbacker Luther.
I still have the original strings (I bought the Rick new in 2017).
I do recommend you to follow the presented method... I have a 1974's one, acquired brand new, and I've uses exactly a procedure presentend herein. Over sll those years I made just two very tiny adustments. Note: Rickenbacker maintenance instruction sheet that time suggested exactly what this guy is explaining.
Goog luck!
Greetings from Brazil.
Great thanks
You can save on clamping it to the table by holding the bass between your knees upright and sideways on (on a carpeted floor so you don’t scuff your strap button or the bottom of the bass).
I think the popping the fretboard thing off must’ve been a combination of a some weakly glued fretboards ending up in the hands of some clueless people.
thanks!
When i first got my Rickenbaker 4001, the neck rattled at certain frequencies. Tightening the truss rod did not solve the problem. I ended up pulling the truss rods out and adding a layer of masking tape around them. They both came out of the neck really easy. The truss rod adjustment was not easy because the adjusting nuts were so tight on the recess, you couldn't get a socket on it.
I love the sound but the quality of build isn't as good as it should be. The bridge is crap and was the first thing I changed which meant filling a routed hollow under the original bridge. Not only can't you adjust each string individual height, but the intonation adjustment is hampered by not being able to get to the screw adjuster for individual strings because the string was in the way. Why do I like this bass? Well no other bass seems to have this sound and it's so thin, its a lot lighter than most other basses. It's worth the effort. Thanks for your informative vid.
On the Headstock Cover where it says "Rickenbacker Made In U.S.A. Model 4001" is it all textured or is it like a print without texture?
On the headstock cover "Rickenbacker" is textured and "Made in the U.S.A" is engraved.
+frankie28web thanks for letting me know! :)
if you guys knew how rickenbacker did it at the factory you would be stunned lol ask some of the old guys that worked in the factory in the 70s
FINALLY!! Thank you. I've been trying to find good info on this for quite sometime. This was very helpful. That's a beautiful bass. What year is it? Check mine out. It's a white 1978 4001.
i guess I'm kind of randomly asking but do anybody know of a good site to watch newly released tv shows online?
@Peyton Sonny Flixportal =)
@Ricardo Braylen thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it !
@Peyton Sonny Happy to help :D
What's The pickup height please ?
+Lucas Vecco got same question
He was doing OK until 5 minutes into the video when he suggested using a Pry tool to try and bend the nuts away from the bottom of the truss rod cavity. On these guitars the fretbaord is glued onto the smallest of real estate only about a 1/4" of wood exists between the edges of the neck, and the truss rod slots and the same between the slots. This is the weakest point on the whole guitar.
Putting any force under the nuts will transfer directly onto the rod, then into the thrust plate and finally to the underside of the fretboard, and if you are VERY lucky the fretbaord won't pop off.
Ever wondered why so many old Rickenbackers have cracks between the fretboard and the neck? This is the reason. If you do need to create space under the nuts , first slacken off the strings ,and use an open ended spanner and release the nuts so the rod is exposed and the washers can be moved back. Then the nut and rod can be pushed into the neck until the nut ,washer and Thrust pad can be removed and the rod pulled out of the neck.
Outside of the guitar is where you straighten the rods, where they can't hurt your guitar. Then slide the rods back in ,refit the thrust pad, and washers folowed by the nuts , nip up the nuts, tune the strings and then adjust . Yes you do need to pre bend the neck by hand on these early models , tighteneing the nuts ONLY to take up the slack. I never clamp the guitar to anything, but rather stand the bass on its body end strap button gripping the body between my feet, resting the back of the neck against the inside of my left knee, (I am right handed) and use my left hand gripped around the neck between the nut and 2nd/3rd fret to apply the bending force and using the correct tool (very much like the one used in the video) to adjust the nuts with my right hand . It is a progressive procedure, one I have done on hundreds of Rickenbackers over the last 40 years both on sound necks and after repairing many with lifted fretboards.
My main concern with this tutorial is the "prying up" on the truss rod nuts with any kind of tool as he did here. Nothing will crack your fingerboard quicker. If you don't have the proper 1/4" truss rod wrench, or if there's not enough room for your nut driver to fit, take it to a professional
Surely the way you're demonstrating adjusting the rods and not consciously noting how many turns you're making on each, risks putting a twist in the neck? Would be much easier to just back the rods off completely slack, then mechanically clamp the neck into a back bow, then tighten the rods evenly to hold the neck in place, as to not risk developing a twist....
Chazz-J Black Dave’s world of fun stuff mentioned that it’s possible to get perfect action on both sides using this method.
Good ol sneaky-nuts..
2 truss rods? What were Rickenbacker thinking?
Ricks are notorious for the necks twisting. With 2 truss rods, you can adjust both ways.
@@justinandsheba Notorious for necks twisting? Jesus, have you seen what they cost?
Nice tutorial. Only constructive criticism - when you are saying 'tighten' i dont know if you are turning clockwise or counterclockwise and it's hard to see.
clockwise
Righty tighty, lefty loosey.
RIGHTY TIGHTY - LEFTY LUCY.
You don't have to pry the truss rod nut. You can get an actual truss rod wrench designed to squeeze under the truss rod nut.
Word. Ric sells them and Stew Mac sells one that works. Thin wall nut driver. If you own a Ric bass you need one.
Back in the 80s I owned a 1974 Rickenbacker 4001 and I learned the single most effective way to make a neck adjustment as well as any/all other repair requirements for a 4001. I took it to a music store and traded it in for a Fender Jazz Bass. Problem solved.
Why doesn't Rickenbacker make their basses with ONE truss rod? Seriously. After decades of suffering, if I was the CEO, this would be completed changed.
and perhaps they could put a decent bridge on it at the same time!
Rickenbacker professional luthier ajustment truss rod only........
what a pain in the ass system.
Lol, it is a pain in the ass, but they're cool basses non-the-less.
+Conky I played one in a band for a few years and sold it. truss rod was just annoying. bought a travis bean...haven't looked back.im sure the newer ones make more sense (4003)
+Nicholas Fanzo Sweet. I could imagine a Travis Bean could run circles around any Ric. Personally, my 4003 is not my favorite bass, my 4080 (double neck bass/guitar) plays better, but is a lot harder to set up.
I own a '75 4001, I did a set up 27 years ago...still 100% straight. Never had to do it since.. my jazz bass need much more love..every 2-3 years I have to set it the neck
.
this guy sounds like Hooper from "jaws"
very helpful nonetheless
sexy
Don't do that. PLEASE! Don't do that!
Use a open-end wrench. You're not going to take wood off the neck, are you? That is never the intention. Otherwise the manufacturer would have done this themselves.
I have been doing custom guitar work for years and I must say that this not how you should adjust truss rods, I don't know who showed you how to do that on a Rickenbacker but that isn't how, I could show you if I were there but please for the sake of others doing damage to their bass remove this post.
Dean McMaster feel free to elaborate as to why you take issue with it, but given that Rickenbacker dual truss rods work quite differently from most instruments, and give that at the time there was NO tutorial anywhere on you tube or otherwise, this is what I came up with. Worked well, and I stand by it. YMMV.
Clearly you don't do much work on Rickenbacker 4001 basses. Apart from his bad idea of using a pry tool
I'd go along with it as its the way we old boys have been doing it since the 70,s.he just uses a clamp instead of his knees.