Thank you so much for this. Honest to God, and I am not hating on Rickenbacker, but at some point someone within corporate is going to have to make the decision to build these basses with one truss rod and preferably graphite reinforcement rods.
Old Friend, you are very welcome and thank you for watching I really appreciate your positive comment. Yeah I agree Rickenbacker needs to do something about the present truss rod system. They changed the bridge and tailpiece a couple of years ago so there may still be hope for a better truss rod system.
I picked up a 2019 4003S/5w recently and had to adjust the truss rod, unfortunately there were still 2 truss rods. However, loosening them was a breeze and only took a couple of 1/4 turns to get where I needed. Happy that I didn't have to go through a war like so many others have seemed to do
Hey Nick, great videos. Are these tutorials for the modern 4003? I have a 2022 4003 that has developed some resonance issues I believe can be fixed with a truss rod adjustment.
Caleb Day, thank you so much for watching and for the kind comment. With the newer 4003 basses you can simply adjust the truss rods by loosening or tightening the nuts. I'm assuming the 2022 still has two truss rods. You don't need to manually adjust the neck and then tighten the truss rod nuts. Do you have the updated bridge and tailpiece on your 2022 Rickenbacker 4003? How is it? Let me know if you're able to sort out the resonance issue.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Appreciate the reply! I was able to mitigate the resonance with a truss rod adjustment (still has 2) and adjusting pickup height. Can still hear it a little bit, but it's undetectable when playing with a band. Yes, I do have the updated bridge and tailpiece. I haven't had any issues with it and seems easy enough to set up. Mine's the only rick I've played, so I can't comment on how it compares to the old style. Apologies if this is a dumb question, but would there ever be reason for me to adjust the truss rods down by the neck pickup? Keep up the cool content man!
@@Legotian , Hey Caleb, how are ya? It sounds like you've got a nice Rick and great to hear you were able to get it adjusted. As far as I know you shouldn't have access to the truss rods down by the neck pickup so you can't adjust the truss rods down by the neck pickup. Caleb, you mentioned that you adjusted the truss rods and the pick up height but you're still having a bit of resonance. After you adjusted the truss rods did you check the action height and then adjust the bridge? Did you check the height of the nut slots? Both of those could also be causing the resonance.
Going thru this issue right now with my 4003s. I had no clue these were single action rods until today. I loosened mine the other day to relieve a little forward bow and nothing happened except the nuts backed off. It left me totally confused. Now I realize that the rod doesn't work when you loosen it, only when you tighten it. Question. Is it really important to have both truss rods at the same exact tension? And if so, how does one accurately measure this tension? Thanks for making this video. I appreciate it as a resource.
You're welcome and thank you for the kind comment, I appreciate that. First let me say, I just took a quick look at your channel and it looks fascinating as I enjoy true crime. Also, I noticed your videos on David Berkowitz and it immediately took me back to when I was a young teenager in New York at the time of his shooting spree and I so vividly remember the fear of going out at night or sitting in a parked car, that fear still lives with me. I'm gonna take a look at your videos soon. As far as the 4003 truss rod, since there are two truss rods you need to check the relief on both sides of the neck; (bass side E string and treble side G string) and then set the proper relief on each side. I set the bass side truss rod between .010 to .012 or 10 to 12 thousandths of and inch and then I set the treble side at the about same between 10 to 12 thousandths of an inch. I only play in my living room so I can get away with .010 on both sides. To measure the relief you put a capo at the first fret, hold down the E string with your finger at the last fret and then use a .012 feeler gauge to measure the relief at the 7th fret. The feeler gauge should just fit snugly under the string and over the 7th fret. Repeat this on the G string. If there's too much space you have to tighten the truss rod and if there's not enough space you have to loosen the truss rod. So, to answer your question, I would say think of it as the measurement needs to be similar on both sides of the neck but not necessarily exact. You can start with .012 relief and then adjust the action at around 5/64. Check up and down the neck for any buzzing or choking out and if it sounds good and feels good then you're set. If you hear anything odd you can always go back and tweak the truss rod on either the bass or treble side depending on where you might be getting buzzing or choking. Sorry for the long winded explanation but I hope it helps. If you have any questions please ask. Now I'm gonna go back to your channel and watch some Son of Sam!
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Wow! Thanks a lot Nick. Hugely helpful. I gotta buy that neck edge before I do anything. Then I will use this comment as my guide. I really appreciate it. As far as Son of Sam, yeah, we had a fun 1.5 year run investigating all the claims about cult involvement. We found out that Berkowitz indeed worked alone. No one ever did a deeper dive than we did on this case. Enjoy it!
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Do you suggest upgrading to a new bridge as well? I really want to start doing my own setups on this thing. I think I got the neck relief thing figured out from your helpful comment, but would love opinions about the bridge as well. Thanks so much!!!
@@mannygrossman , you are very welcome and keep me posted on the 4003. That is absolutely fascinating about Berkowitz, I've always believed he was alone but of course had no idea.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 I will my friend. Thanks for being so cool. Yeah, the SOS world for a long time believed Berkie had accomplices. But we proved he didn't.
Does anyone know if Rickenbacker ever used just 1 truss rod? I saw a picture of an early 70’s 4001 (for sale) with the truss rod cover off and there was only 1 truss rod.
db Vetter, that is an interesting question and I did a quick search. All I could come up with is this kinda vague information: hazeguitars.com/blog/rickenbacker-truss-rod-adjustment
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 they started this when higher tension roundwound strings became popular because they thought one truss rod wasn't enough. I like the idea of 2, but decades ago they should have made it easier to do and have better workmanship in the tightening pocket. Why did it take 4 decades to get rid of that useless bridge?
@@carpediemarts705 , Thank for the info on the Rickenbacker truss rod. It really did take a long time to redesign the bridge, the new seems to work a lot better.
I thought you were supposed to loosen the truss rod nuts, put neck into position, then snug the nuts up... with the strings up to tension, or tuned... and not just Rics.
Timothy Dukeman, thanks for watching. Yes, you can do it with tension on the strings and use the strings as a guide to check the straightness of the neck. I do it without string tension for a few reasons; 1). If the strings are at full tension I don't have good access to the truss rod nuts nor am I able to turn the socket wrench with the particular truss rod wrench that I'm using. 2). I get the strings out of my way so I can actually grab around the neck/fingerboard and nut as I push down to make the adjustment, I don't want anything popping off. 3). Instead of using the tensioned strings as a guide I use my eye and estimate how far the neck needs to be adjusted and then tighten the truss rod nuts always being careful not to overdue it and snap the neck in half. I hope that helps.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 More than one way to skin a 'Ric'. I'm in the process of adjusting mine... just put on some Rotosound RS66LDN's, and they must have slightly more tension than the D'Angelicos that were on previously. I've adjusted the truss rods a couple of times, but it looks like the neck is returning to the same relief... I don't think either rod is broke, rather stuck in place. May have to pull them to see if there's a chance of trying to repair them. Thanks, Nick!
@@timothydukeman7619 , you're welcome. Just a thought about the relief problem with your Rickenbacker, you might want to try loosening the truss rod nuts, clamping the neck into a back bow and then tightening the truss rod nuts again. Leave it clamped for a day or two and then release the clamp. I have a similar problem with the neck on my Geddy Lee Jazz bass and this technique seems to work for me. When I do this I make sure it's clamped straight and nothing is twisting and I keep and eye on fingerboard, neck, nut and binding to make sure nothing is splitting or cracking. Good luck with the adjustment and keep me posted, I'd like to know if you're able to figure out the problem.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 And yes I have done what you suggested... it takes about 5-6 lbs of consistent downward pressure (with strings tensioned anyways) to bottom the strings out on the middle of the fretboard... the spacer block doesn't seem to move, even when the nuts are loose... again, like it's frozen in time, immovable. If I can't budge it, well it's not going to put any pressure on the rods, themselves... hence, holding the rods in position, no matter what I do. That's a good starting point, right there.
Thank you so much for this. Honest to God, and I am not hating on Rickenbacker, but at some point someone within corporate is going to have to make the decision to build these basses with one truss rod and preferably graphite reinforcement rods.
Old Friend, you are very welcome and thank you for watching I really appreciate your positive comment. Yeah I agree Rickenbacker needs to do something about the present truss rod system. They changed the bridge and tailpiece a couple of years ago so there may still be hope for a better truss rod system.
I picked up a 2019 4003S/5w recently and had to adjust the truss rod, unfortunately there were still 2 truss rods. However, loosening them was a breeze and only took a couple of 1/4 turns to get where I needed. Happy that I didn't have to go through a war like so many others have seemed to do
That is great to hear, I'm glad you were able to adjust the truss rods easily. I think the walnut Rickenbacker basses are beautiful.
truss rod adjustments - what a pain but we all know how good the rick sounds
It’s always a nightmare when a simple truss rod adjustment turns into a WWE Wrestling match.
Hey Nick, great videos. Are these tutorials for the modern 4003? I have a 2022 4003 that has developed some resonance issues I believe can be fixed with a truss rod adjustment.
Caleb Day, thank you so much for watching and for the kind comment. With the newer 4003 basses you can simply adjust the truss rods by loosening or tightening the nuts. I'm assuming the 2022 still has two truss rods.
You don't need to manually adjust the neck and then tighten the truss rod nuts.
Do you have the updated bridge and tailpiece on your 2022 Rickenbacker 4003? How is it? Let me know if you're able to sort out the resonance issue.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Appreciate the reply! I was able to mitigate the resonance with a truss rod adjustment (still has 2) and adjusting pickup height. Can still hear it a little bit, but it's undetectable when playing with a band. Yes, I do have the updated bridge and tailpiece. I haven't had any issues with it and seems easy enough to set up. Mine's the only rick I've played, so I can't comment on how it compares to the old style. Apologies if this is a dumb question, but would there ever be reason for me to adjust the truss rods down by the neck pickup? Keep up the cool content man!
@@Legotian , Hey Caleb, how are ya? It sounds like you've got a nice Rick and great to hear you were able to get it adjusted. As far as I know you shouldn't have access to the truss rods down by the neck pickup so you can't adjust the truss rods down by the neck pickup. Caleb, you mentioned that you adjusted the truss rods and the pick up height but you're still having a bit of resonance. After you adjusted the truss rods did you check the action height and then adjust the bridge? Did you check the height of the nut slots? Both of those could also be causing the resonance.
Going thru this issue right now with my 4003s. I had no clue these were single action rods until today. I loosened mine the other day to relieve a little forward bow and nothing happened except the nuts backed off. It left me totally confused. Now I realize that the rod doesn't work when you loosen it, only when you tighten it.
Question. Is it really important to have both truss rods at the same exact tension? And if so, how does one accurately measure this tension?
Thanks for making this video. I appreciate it as a resource.
You're welcome and thank you for the kind comment, I appreciate that. First let me say, I just took a quick look at your channel and it looks fascinating as I enjoy true crime. Also, I noticed your videos on David Berkowitz and it immediately took me back to when I was a young teenager in New York at the time of his shooting spree and I so vividly remember the fear of going out at night or sitting in a parked car, that fear still lives with me. I'm gonna take a look at your videos soon. As far as the 4003 truss rod, since there are two truss rods you need to check the relief on both sides of the neck; (bass side E string and treble side G string) and then set the proper relief on each side. I set the bass side truss rod between .010 to .012 or 10 to 12 thousandths of and inch and then I set the treble side at the about same between 10 to 12 thousandths of an inch. I only play in my living room so I can get away with .010 on both sides. To measure the relief you put a capo at the first fret, hold down the E string with your finger at the last fret and then use a .012 feeler gauge to measure the relief at the 7th fret. The feeler gauge should just fit snugly under the string and over the 7th fret. Repeat this on the G string. If there's too much space you have to tighten the truss rod and if there's not enough space you have to loosen the truss rod.
So, to answer your question, I would say think of it as the measurement needs to be similar on both sides of the neck but not necessarily exact. You can start with .012 relief and then adjust the action at around 5/64. Check up and down the neck for any buzzing or choking out and if it sounds good and feels good then you're set. If you hear anything odd you can always go back and tweak the truss rod on either the bass or treble side depending on where you might be getting buzzing or choking. Sorry for the long winded explanation but I hope it helps. If you have any questions please ask. Now I'm gonna go back to your channel and watch some Son of Sam!
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Wow! Thanks a lot Nick. Hugely helpful. I gotta buy that neck edge before I do anything. Then I will use this comment as my guide. I really appreciate it.
As far as Son of Sam, yeah, we had a fun 1.5 year run investigating all the claims about cult involvement. We found out that Berkowitz indeed worked alone. No one ever did a deeper dive than we did on this case. Enjoy it!
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Do you suggest upgrading to a new bridge as well? I really want to start doing my own setups on this thing. I think I got the neck relief thing figured out from your helpful comment, but would love opinions about the bridge as well. Thanks so much!!!
@@mannygrossman , you are very welcome and keep me posted on the 4003. That is absolutely fascinating about Berkowitz, I've always believed he was alone but of course had no idea.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 I will my friend. Thanks for being so cool. Yeah, the SOS world for a long time believed Berkie had accomplices. But we proved he didn't.
Does anyone know if Rickenbacker ever used just 1 truss rod? I saw a picture of an early 70’s 4001 (for sale) with the truss rod cover off and there was only 1 truss rod.
db Vetter, that is an interesting question and I did a quick search. All I could come up with is this kinda vague information:
hazeguitars.com/blog/rickenbacker-truss-rod-adjustment
I just got a 2022 mapleglo 4003, and it has only 1 truss rod. I think it will be the new standard
@@xxxbernumxxx Same here. One truss rod
I didn’t even know they had two!
Poo Ninja, I'm really not sure why Rickenbacker does that.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 stability I guess 🤘🏽
Poo Ninja, that is probably the reason why.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 they started this when higher tension roundwound strings became popular because they thought one truss rod wasn't enough.
I like the idea of 2, but decades ago they should have made it easier to do and have better workmanship in the tightening pocket.
Why did it take 4 decades to get rid of that useless bridge?
@@carpediemarts705 , Thank for the info on the Rickenbacker truss rod. It really did take a long time to redesign the bridge, the new seems to work a lot better.
I thought the 4001 was radically different. And had this weird flexable tension thing that wasnt even a rod.
Thanks for watching. The 4001 is a bit different but pretty straight forward.
Mow looks very worried about what is going on here.
Sean J, thanks for watching, I appreciate your concern. I'm always open to advice and suggestions.
I thought you were supposed to loosen the truss rod nuts, put neck into position, then snug the nuts up... with the strings up to tension, or tuned... and not just Rics.
Timothy Dukeman, thanks for watching. Yes, you can do it with tension on the strings and use the strings as a guide to check the straightness of the neck. I do it without string tension for a few reasons; 1). If the strings are at full tension I don't have good access to the truss rod nuts nor am I able to turn the socket wrench with the particular truss rod wrench that I'm using. 2). I get the strings out of my way so I can actually grab around the neck/fingerboard and nut as I push down to make the adjustment, I don't want anything popping off. 3). Instead of using the tensioned strings as a guide I use my eye and estimate how far the neck needs to be adjusted and then tighten the truss rod nuts always being careful not to overdue it and snap the neck in half. I hope that helps.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 More than one way to skin a 'Ric'. I'm in the process of adjusting mine... just put on some Rotosound RS66LDN's, and they must have slightly more tension than the D'Angelicos that were on previously. I've adjusted the truss rods a couple of times, but it looks like the neck is returning to the same relief... I don't think either rod is broke, rather stuck in place. May have to pull them to see if there's a chance of trying to repair them.
Thanks, Nick!
@@timothydukeman7619 , you're welcome. Just a thought about the relief problem with your Rickenbacker, you might want to try loosening the truss rod nuts, clamping the neck into a back bow and then tightening the truss rod nuts again. Leave it clamped for a day or two and then release the clamp. I have a similar problem with the neck on my Geddy Lee Jazz bass and this technique seems to work for me. When I do this I make sure it's clamped straight and nothing is twisting and I keep and eye on fingerboard, neck, nut and binding to make sure nothing is splitting or cracking. Good luck with the adjustment and keep me posted, I'd like to know if you're able to figure out the problem.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 Will do, Nick! Funny you should mention the Geddy... same deal. It's the one bass needing an adjustment, almost annually.
@@bass-hiroshimanick2534 And yes I have done what you suggested... it takes about 5-6 lbs of consistent downward pressure (with strings tensioned anyways) to bottom the strings out on the middle of the fretboard... the spacer block doesn't seem to move, even when the nuts are loose... again, like it's frozen in time, immovable. If I can't budge it, well it's not going to put any pressure on the rods, themselves... hence, holding the rods in position, no matter what I do. That's a good starting point, right there.