Making a 15th Century Princess Gown Part 1 || Historical Reconstruction
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 чер 2018
- Loads More Information Below!
Note re: marking with ink: I wasn’t sure if I could reproduce the images here, but if you’re looking for some evidence see Janet Arnold’s ‘Patterns of Fashion’ Volume 3 (p. 48, fig. 56C) and Volume 4 (p. 46, fig. 327).
MATERIAL SOURCES:
-Wool: A&K Fabrics, NYC. 9 yards
-Linen thread: Burnley & Trowbridge [www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...]
-Turkey pointers for quills: Dersh Feather, NYC
USEFUL SOURCES
-Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 3 www.panmacmillan.com/authors/...
-Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 4 www.panmacmillan.com/authors/...
-Crowfoot, Elisabeth; Pritchard, Frances; Staniland, Kay. Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450. Museum of London. museumoflondonshop.co.uk/coll...
-Egan, Geoff and Pritchard, Frances. Dress Accessories 1150 - 1450. Museum of London. museumoflondonshop.co.uk/coll...
-Nørlund, Poul. Buried Norsemen at Herjolsfnes: an Archaeological and Historical Study. www.press.uchicago.edu/ucp/boo...
IMAGE CREDIT
-“Saint George Slaying the Dragon” by Jost Haller. Unterlinden Museum. Digital image from Wikimedia Commons. commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
-“Le Livre des faiz monseigneur saint Loys, composé à la requête du « cardinal de Bourbon et de la duchesse de Bourbonnois”. Detail from a manuscript, c. 1401-1500. BnF Gallica. gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv...
-“Alabaster effigies (circa 1471) of John Harington, 4th Baron Harington (died 1418) and his wife Elizabeth Courtenay (died 1471) in St Dubricius' parish church, Porlock, Somerset”. Digital image from Wikimedia Commons. commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
-Detail from “Devonshire Hunting Tapestries”. V&A Museum (T.205-1957). Made cc. 1440 - 1450. collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O94...
-“Portrait of a Female Donor” by Petrus Christus. C. 1455. Samuel H. Kress Collection (1961.9.11) National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C. images.nga.gov/en/search/do_q...
Additional cinematography by Danny Banner.
‘Herjolfsnes’ pronunciation advice from Bettina Forsberg; apologies for my butchery of it. ;)
MUSIC
Intro: Crunk Knight by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Background: Folk Round by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/
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she sounds like a young immortal who's excited about all the stuff she missed before she was born and now wants to catch up on it
I'm like 75% sure that's exactly what she is
Exactly what she is
Emma Kjaersgaard how specific
Ella Becerra Hmm 🤔
yes
I-of course-had to come rewatch this after the roasting video. 😋
Lindsey Carter SAAAAAAAAAME
Lindsey Carter literally same lol
Hahah ditto.
Lindsey Carter jop same
What roasting video
Now I respects Cinderella's effort in making her own dress for a ball.......realistically or not.
I'm also quite impressed by the mice and birds getting it done. Especially seeing as how they had no opposable thumbs.
@@nadjaannabel1 Yeah, in my Cinderella story book when I was growing up there were illustrations of birds and mice making her dress, indeed with no thumbs.
I have no idea what lifestyle you lived to achieve such a lovely way of articulating, but I am deeply envious. Your enunciation and accent is just beautiful to listen to, and you have a beautiful, efficient way with words. If you ever decided to narrate a book, I think you'd be received very well.
I agree. 🥺
Agreed.
I have a feeling it has something to do with reading aloud for someone else. My mother speaks a bit like this, and she credits it to reading to her kids when we were young.
@@lillianmcnabb1428 That could be true for pitch, tone, and inflection. (Especially the inflection. But when it comes to the phenoms themselves, they're usually influenced by culture and the dialect said culture uses.
She lived in England for a time.
I’m going to be honest, I know nothing about this type of stuff, and wouldn’t usually care, but I find your videos so relaxing and interesting, I can’t help but want to explore this subject a bit more
Indeed, it is fascinating and very educational.
Same though. I’m sick and have just been watching her videos most of the day.
I knw a little something but more on how ancient chinese and japanese people dressed enof to tell the difference and some names
Mainly started cuz of anime but i found out i just really love all kinds of ancient or old style clothing!!
Japan, england, america, china, egypt, russia etc and more! Now i am no where NEAR this amazing person buuuuut i do love them and god i love her videos.
I want to eventually do videosi make old style clothing, to the best of my ability. And then in my own personal view edit them for more street wear and to suit some clothing issues i have (like tight long sleeves for example i personally dislike)
Or make them diff lengths. Or try to imagine it in colors or styles id love. Just to put my own spin on it nd to be able to wear a version outside all the time. Like a cosplay of diff era or country or style every day. (Id prolly save the ones more historically looking for special events)
I also just love videos abt the lifestyle or clothing of ppl from a long time ago or even few decades ago! I follow several ppl who talk about nd do things like thia Nd im def subscribing to this woman! Shes amazing!
Ps im only a few mins in and love it
Yeah same
Same
New years resolution for 2020: be more like Bernadette.
Bernadette: “pro tip: don’t be like me”
😟
Annika Lachhammer me: *dying my hair the exact same shade as hers* I DO WHAT I WANT!
Secret life tech: everyone with any real sense thinks they're doing it wrong. I'd punch a bear in the face to be living her life.
Bernadette: *gives actual, concise instructions*
Me, an avid Micarah Tewers stan: *King George III voice* I wasn't aware that was something a person could do
6:22 "Subway Seamstress" is a good name for a clothing shop... or a band.
I will forever admire your attention to the most minute of details in making the garment and editing the video alike! 💖
7:02, you played thread chicken and won. that's the biggest victory in this entire project.
I've always loved medieval music. Thank you for putting in there. The combination of sewing and music and the commentary is really soothing, I must say... this video made my anxiety melt away. Thank you.
2:10 this is not necessarily the case, although St. George is the patron saint of England he himself was a Roman soldier of Greek origin, which is obviously not being reflected in the dress of the figures in the painting.
As the artist of this painting, Jost Holler, was French it is more likely that the clothes the figures are wearing are a reflection of the contemporary French fashion, as it was common in this period for artists depict historical figures in contemporary dress and setting.
Thats really cool to know! So that would be like an Texas artist drawing Sherlock Holmes in boots and a wide brimmed hat?
He was born in Cappadocia, modern day Turkey, and never actually visited England. The dragon story was added several centuries after his death, supposedly taking place in what is now Libya.
Correct!
St. George born in Kappadokía to Hellene🇬🇷 parents with the name Γεώργιος / Geòrgios.
How he ended being the patron Saint of England… I don’t know!
Also, the red Cross on the white background 🏴 was used the Patriarchate at the Holy tomb of Christ in Jerusalem.
The red Cross was used in the Orthodox iconography to symbolise the win of Christ over Death.
Your videos made me want to learn how to sew
My mom (a professional) was so happy to hear this! She's actually really interested in your videos so you'll get her as a subscriber soon😂💕💕
I would adore a podcast of you explaining various historical dress styles and patterns.
Sign *me* up for that, too! 👍🏻
I love the way you speak! It's so cultured and elegant
Not to mention your work is superb!
If you made and sold your patterns -you would slowly have all my money! 😆
Keep up the great work, I’m off to watch part two now 😃
That's funny!
I've gotta thank youtube algorithm for putting your videos in front of me, this is fascinating
Omg when you were finishing off that seam with JUST the perfect amount of thread - more satisfying than slime videos or asmr imo 😂👏🏼😘
very nice
just a little bit of an hint
the draping in the painting can be achieved without the waist seam, but you have to "extend" (in a square horizontal line) a few centimeters the flaring of the skirt, and then work each "redundancy" as a box pleat, to sew in place with hidden stitches on the inside of the bodice
I hope I manage to be clear, I'm a tailor (I mostly do stage costumes and garments for historical reenactment, renaissance mainly), but english is not my mother tongue, so I may have been a bit approximate with technical terms
^__^
oh, and I would have start the flaring of the panels just a little higher, again for the sake of the pleated effect on the waist: wearing the belt right on top of the point where the flares starts will cinch the gown and enhance that fuller look, but is really a minor detail :)
question: how do you treat the seam allowances? just leave them that way will end up in a frayed mess and unstable seams after wearing it a few times, imho...
Nimerya Spawnbrød she says near the end of the video that these aren’t finished seams, as she is still in the fitting process she has left them since “it is easier to unpick some back stitching than flat felled seams”
I am a historian and just love your sewing projects. My mother used to make her own clothes and often created entire garments by hand. Her stitches were so tiny and patient.
Your dress is beautiful. It helps that you are so very pretty and small. I can't wait to see it finished.
It's so gratifying to see someone else's fabric frays when they work with it! It always seems in these construction videos that everyone has some sort of magical secret to non-fraying fabric.
She’s a princess it’s official, so elegant
Coming back here after so many years, its amazing to see how much Bernadette has improved her videos - and how some of the core aspects have stayed the same!
Ohmygoodness! Your patience and precision with hand stitching is outstanding! I really enjoyed hearing the reasoning behind your interpretation. Are you familiar with the British mini-series 'A Stitch in Time'? or seen Janet Stephens' channel? She has an abundance of videos analysing and recreating historical hairdressing. It's funny how convenient some of those historical techniques be :)
Also, may I just say your editing and footage are exceptional. I can't wait to see what you upload next!
Forgotten Trinkets A stitch in time, reminds me of a couple of books by Una Stubbs ( Aunt Sally from Worzel Gummage, she used to do her embroidery whilst waiting to go on set :-D) They were published in the 80's I think.
I have to agree with you Bernadette's editing is really great, lighting is good which really counts for this kind of work. The music is also a great choice. This is a lovely channel ladies, really great to find other like minds :-) xx
A Stitch in Time is a fantastic show!
I have no proof it was done this way, "...but sometimes it's nice to experiment with a bit of logic".
Yes! Experimental anthropology at its heart, and an excellent philosophy for life. Period.
I cannot tell you how much I enjoy listening to you. Not only is the subject matter of interest to me, but your voice is so pleasant.
Great information about the backstitch, I usually just use running stitch for most seams but will now start to add a small backstitch every few inches for security. I usually use backstitch on the bodice sideseams and sleeves for added strength. I find hand sewing can often be as fast as using the machine but much quieter and therefore more popular with other family members.
hand stitching a whole dress amazes me. would take forever but love the authenticity
3:14 - “Eleven Panels (and one gore) later...”
For those of us who can’t always translate loopy handwriting.
The best part is how happy she sounds. Usually people like this sound tired but she sounds so genuinely happy to be doing this and it makes me smile.
6:56 👏👏👏👏 deserves a standing ovation for that maneuver😂
I love that you choose what I would consider to be time appropriate music. ( at least from my historical movie soundtrack experience) And oh the joy of making it to the end of a stitch line before your thread runs out!!!!
I never thought to push the end of the needle backwards into the last loop. I always try to shove the needle through at the end. I feel so stupid. Lol It seems so obvious to do now. Lol
Anyways.... love your videos!
My mother-in-law has such a unique patience and skill with creating clothing and garments, I never thought I'd see her level of attention to detail until I found you! It's amazing to see someone else with such a great talent.
Also, I'm amazed at the way you talk and articulate. So elegant and sophisticated!
Her name is Princess Sabra of Cappadocia or Libya, depending on who you ask.
St George, a Roman soldier, rode to Cappadocia or Libya, we’ll say Cappadocia, as that was the original story, and he came across an old hermit. The hermit told him that the whole town was in panic, as there was a dragon. He said they made a deal with the dragon to give him one person a month so long as he doesn’t harm the others. The king decided that all the citizen of Cappadocia should carve their names into a piece of pottery and put it in a bin, and every month, a name would be picked out.
One month, the king went to pick a name, and the name he pulled out was none other than Princess Sabra. According to his own law, he had to give her to the dragon.
George stayed with the hermit over night and the next day, he went to slay the dragon. He made it to where the dragon slept, and made out the shape of a woman. He stabbed the dragon, and the dragon went to attack him as it woke up. He coaxed Princess Sabra into taking off her belt and throwing it at the dragon, and like magic, it wrapped around the dragons neck. He took the opportunity to chop the dragons head off. Later, he and Princess Sabra married.
The carving of names into pieces of pottery for the purpose of random selection dates back to classical Greece. Origin of word ostracism.
I love the way you speak!
This was the inspiration for my final piece in my high school textiles, although I went with something similar as the dress had to be made within 1 week. Still thank you for the ideas..!
Just imagine you're on the train and you just see Bernadette sewing-
I'm just intrigued you did this by hand, I'm just making a dress in school and I'm not even done yet ._. (Maybe because I only have one lesson every week)
In the 15th century, the ladies wore a kind of clogs with very high soles. To emphasize the silhouette.
Chopines, as they were called, also helped keep the hems of ladies' gowns out of the muck.
That was the 16th century.
Chopines of the platform type, are found in Italy earlier than elsewhere.
Just found your channel. I’m amazed. The fact that you hand-stitch these garments is 😮
5:03 this is the most relatable thing I’ve ever heard Bernadette say
I just learned the most handy knot trick for short threads around the 7 minute mark. Thanks so much for that simple trick!
Hi Bernadette!! I'm not sure if you'll see this but I just wanted to tell you something truly coincidental that just happened to me. I have always loved your videos on making this dress specifically and always thought the dress itself was beautiful, including the painting! Apparently the princess depicted in the painting is Princess Marjorie Bruce, daughter of King Robert the Bruce. I just found out yesterday that not only is Robert the Bruce my 21st great grandfather, but Princess Marjorie is my 20th great-grandmother. Super weird but interesting coincidence I guess
Oh my gawd.... that is so much work!!!! I'm a seamstress as well, and I cant imagine making everything by hand! Although I've never had the problems I've had with machines with hand stitching. This is amazing!
Beautiful stuff! I am watching every video on 0.75 speed. It feels quite natural and that way I am able to grasp all the information. Being no native speaker of English and new to sewing, this helps a lot to expand my knowledge of sewing techniques.. and English vocabulary.
I am SO glad I found your channel! You're simply amazing!
I could watch and listen to your narratives for hours if not days. You have a lovely voice
If the original wearer had been wearing pattens (to save shoes and skirt hems from outdoors mud/dirt/etc.), that would have given her a couple extra inches of height, so the skirt wouldn't have puddled quite as much. (Although you'd think she would have at least hitched it up enough to clear the ground . . .)
This costume of yours is incredible! I understand why you wouldn't make it for others. I studied history in college, so fashion has been an interest of mine, in particular the medieval period. Stunning work!
I can highly recommend the book she used as her main source. I construct and maintain medieval clothing as part of my job and this has been one of my main references as well. I will say that I believe the style of gown is accurate without the waist seam. Most long gowns like that wouldn't have had a waist seem. The gathering is often caused by the belt. Especially as the one in the painting is a narrow yet sturdy leather and right at the waist it would cause a gathering effect below depending on how much the skirt is designed to flare out as a way of showing off. The large skirts and draping sleeves are popular for nobles of the later centuries as a way of displaying wealth and marking them as nobility.
Bcs of you I started sewing in hand rather than a machine, seeing you sew by hand makes me relax that's why I consider sewing by hand 💕
I just found your channel and I Love everything about this! 😍
People always ask why I love sewing so much, (by hand or machine). Therapy! Sooo relaxing.
Thank you Miss Bernadette for putting the links for the tools and materials in the description.
Beautiful beginning, love all those gores, and I loved your choice of music. Thank you!!
When walking, a lady would use skirt lifters.
Additionally, fine ladies had others do the running. 😉 This is NOT to say ladies didn't have quite enough to do!
Reading that book, which I still have in hardback, always makes me want a new loom & ability to weave, once more. It's a marvelous book.
Definitely planning on using this video as a reference when I make my wedding dress.
Oh my gawd even the marking of fabric is done medieval style
nice attention to detail and very professional. Also you are very pleasing to the eye. I very much enjoyed the hand stitching.
6:30 I was so focused on the sewing with the light music but then you had to put trade into the video which teleported me back into reality. :D
This is so amazing!! I LOVE watching you make these amazing clothes!!
This woman is a fashion time machine.
I've never been interested in sewing, what so ever, but your videos really inspire me. Thank you!
The power that the shot of her sewing on the subway has
I love hearing your reasoning behind why you pick certain types, lengths and fabrics for stitches. I didn't realize they were that important to the construction of clothes. I'll definitely pay attention to them next time I buy clothing.
Wow. Just wow. Love your channel, love your work!❤️
AWESOME!!! I am amazed! What a joy your videos are to watch.
That book immediately went on my wishlist. I am so happy I found your channel.
Literally so similar
In my opinion, a dress without a waist seam, but instead just several continuing panels, creates a much leaner and elegant silhouette, so I personally actually like this outcome much more!!
I'm not a seamstress, but I definitely knit on the train.
Studying 15th century history at the moment and trying to imagine what life was like at court during the time of the Wars of the Roses and before. Thanks for this video!
I love how dedicated you are to historical research and methods. Your videos always inspire me to sew and work on my own projects. My senior project is to hand make 15 dolls of book characters. Watching you put all this effort into hand stitching makes it seem like less of an impossible task. So, thank you for that.
P.S. I love both your voice and how you do your hair. So classy!
I am every time very impressed by how straight you can cut the seam allowance without marking!
I have always wanted to sew my own clothing, but your videos are inspiring me so much more. I have neither the space nor time to dedicate to doing it atm.
love your videos! i've been using them as some motivational background while i work on my own (first) little sewing project (it's a yoda doll for my friend) and it's so relaxing. your work is incredible and the information you give while making such amazing pieces is so interesting. you're making me want to actually learn how to do some practical sewing for myself!
Literally yesterday was saint George's day (which we call Sant Jordi, here in Catalonia) and we have the most beautiful tradition about it: Selling books and roses all over the streets and celebrating knowledge, but with the quarentene it has been postponed until late June, and of course neither me nor my family and friends where happy about it. I already knew you had made this dress, but now that I know it is historically accurate to this tradition in my country, I appreciate it so much more (if that is even possible) and wanted to thank you for your effort, time and dedication to not just this, but all of your beautiful and meticulous work. You're amazing.
With the cheap price of the stolen garment, makes me wonder what price you'd put on your own with all the hours of labour and cost of fabrics. I'd think well into the thousands ❤️
Yep. At NYC minimum wage of $15 (at that time), just the over 250 hours of hand sewing time would be over $3750. Dress materials (plus materials and sewing time for the smock) would put it at well over $4000. I don't know how long it would take to machine sew it, but even then it would be pricey.
@@bluelagoon1980 not even to mention the hours it took for her to draft the pattern and researching the garments construction
I honestly prefer the dress sans waist seam. There is has a truly elegant line to the dress being uninterrupted.
I love this dress, especially the color, so much!
This is quickly becoming my new favorite channel
I loved the funky medieval music with modern backbeats at the beginning followed by more traditional sounding medieval music later! It felt like starting the video in modern day and going back as the video progressed.
Very interesting! Can’t wait for the next one.
This looks like a fun project! I haven't done much sewing since my cosplay days many years ago, but attempting a historical recreation garment looks like a incredibly fun challenge to jump back into it! I ADORE medieval history; I might try this for a Celtic or Norse outfit!
This is amazing- wow 👏👏👏Good job!!!
I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL! so glad to find you!
i dont sew, nor do i know anything about sewing... but your videos are strangely relaxing
I absolutely love this video! I would definitely be interested to see you recreate this gown with a waist seam just to compare and make it a bit more accurate to the painting. But honestly, I just think this gown is gorgeous
as someone who makes patterns often for school, I see you to have memorized what 1 cm or 1,5 cm seam allowance looks like when cutting. I rarely have to measure it anymore.
I love the gown like this a bit more. It looks a bit like one for less-wealthy people (and also easier to make for a lay person like me). But when I saw the finished product in the roast (which I saw before this video), I loved it too :-)
Wait this is the dress from the roast?? I didn't know when I clicked on this!
I never thought i would be in to Fashion Videos on YT, but this is absolutly amazing to watching🙌
The history in this video is fascinating.
Your voice is quite nice to hear, it has a calm cadence that makes me think of "old times". I also love how you base your work in investigation, deduction and creativity, somehow you remind me of Sherlock Holmes... So cool
You are amazing! I can't even sew a napkin:-( but I still enjoy watching you create such lovely clothes.
Your dictation is so perfectly concise it is elogant! You clearly have a great deal of both intelligence and skill. Thank you for sharing your efforts and thoughts! So pleased to have stumbled upon your channel.
I admire your talent and beauty.
I liked this video a lot. Can't wait to see Part 2!
Great content--informative, concise, well-researched, and eloquently narrated. Well done!
I'm a bus crafter too. My knitting needles or my crochet hook are always with me
Your videos are a delightful find from a foray through UA-cam during a bout of ennui.
The Museum of London book is fascinating. Before I looked at it, I had no idea of the variety of fabrics available in the Middle Ages.
I'm enjoying watching the construction of the dress.