I’m happy to see you using flat boxes. I’ve used them for years and would never do more than a few boards by hand anymore. Its faster to apply, easier to sand and cleaner. Couple tips for you: 1. you don’t have to prime the pump. 2. Play with the consistency of the mud. I like thin mud for the ceiling and thicker for the wall ( I know guys who like it the opposite, find what works for you). 3. Learn how to set the dial for how much mud. You should run a test strip if using a 10” box use a 12” knife and check your fill. It will save you time on sanding. Happy Boxing to you. I’m sure you’ll love it.
With a band new pump you will have to prime it, and in fact any time you clean it fully instead of just pumping and spraying it clean you will likely need to prime it again, especially if you prefer to run thicker mud
@Vancouver Carpenter: How to fix The Mess™ on your box: Two things, First, you're pushing too hard on the handle too soon before your box has made full contact with the wall, before you're ready to make your run. You're coming in with the box held at too steep of an angle to the wall. Consequently, mud gets forced down the length of the box as you roll the wheels forward to make contact with the wall. Incidentally, this is also why you're getting your "Christmas trees" at the start of each run; there's too much mud forming under the box, forcing it away from the wall. The wiper blades are literally floating (think hydroplaning, only instead you're mudplaning). A little bit of mud forming at the mouth of the box is a normal part of how the tool functions, but you've got to much happening in this case. To fix this, when placing the box on the wall, keep the box as flat to the wall as possible as you approach, and ease back on the handle pressure until you have made solid, positive contact with the wall; try not to close the plunger door until the wheels have made contact with the wall, and only then apply pressure. The only time I allow air space between my box and the wall is if I'm running a flat with a near empty box. The thing is, mud pools at the bottom of the box (which ever side you're holding it on) when running the horizontals, which can lead to improperly filled runs near the top until there's enough pressure to force mud all the way up and out of the mouth, if that makes any sense. To fix that, I'll listen for escaping air until I hear mud reaching the top of the mouth of the box, at which point I'll lay the box flat and start my run, but that takes practice and familiarity with the tool. Second, in similar vein, your take off at the end of the run needs to be done a single, fluid motion: apply the break, rock the wheels off the wall ever so slightly while continuing to move the box forward, and smoothly pull away from the wall, all at once, but don't drag the blade or you'll cut into the fill. If you rock the wheels back too far while doing this, you run into the same problem as above, where too much mud is being forced out of the mouth of the box and under the plate, which will cause Christmas trees on your next run. Happy boxing!
I personally run tools myself and do a lot of commercial work.typically I average 12 buckets of mud in 8 hr day boxing and push 11/2 cases of tape with bazoka so yes they 300 times faster than hand finishing
The "mess" on the box is a function of mud thinness, pressure and speed. Basically the same thing you get if you push too hard on the towel for the speed you are moving, it spills over the side
All right I’ve been a finisher for almost 40 years, I’ve used boxes the majority of my time the boxes will get easier to run ,the more you run them because the knives and the blades will smooth out, right now they’re dragging a lot because they are brand new ,once you use the boxes two or three times you will notice the boxes will run a lot easier on the wall and smoother don’t push as hard and slow down towards the end and do a nice pull off I was hoping you got the angle box so you don’t Have to use the tube in the corners ,once you get the angle box ,it’will work better for you .,it will be a lot cleaner and a lot faster than your tube will ever be,just remember relax slow down when you pull off and you can do but joints with us the way you’re doing it now is wrong you need to split a 10 box on each side of the joint of the tape watch some videos on it good luck and you can do it God bless
A lot of talk about weight of things on this Chanel my dad taught m the three rules of the job site it’s not heavy it doesn’t hurt and it’s not cold out…
I think you would really like using the one piece compact handle I’ve been using it for any low joints , also it’s better to split the butt joints then fill the middle on your second coat
Mud is way to thin. Try using very little water on the 1st coat since it shrinks a lot. And yes, take those springs off. And why aren't you using the longer handle to begin with?😄
Thanks big bro for such natural and relative vlogs. You just not show skilled parts but you also show when you mess up like any other person do. And then how you use your brain to solve those tiny mistakes and confusions in a detailed manner.
So you have went to the dark side using a flat box I have always loved the fact that you have been a great teacher for hand finishing thanks for all your GREAT tips I love your videos you are the best!!!!
Our favorite drywall finisher (subcontractor) just started using boxes and the amount of time spent on the fill/finish coats lessened significantly. Thanks for the upload-
Great job Ben I was wondering when you were going to give your shoulder a break ... I was hand taping for years and i just went and bought all the boxes as well much easier on the body !!
Congrats on the new stuff . Awesome purchase.. great job using the tools . keep making your great videos. Make sure you add the angle box and nail spotter to your collections
Love the channel Ben, super helpful. Often I have to match an existing texture, like different skip trowels and such, on a job. You should do an episode on different textures and applications. Keep up the good work!
And I want to add that you are awesome for running tools you are not familiar with so people can see the learning curve. Very important. Will you pleas6make feather your edge hoodies.. I dont want to do my own and feel like I'm stealing it.
One thing I have noticed is that I love using an 8" box for 1st coat over tape, easier than a 10". I also prefer it because I don't have to be as fussy on sanding as well because the 12" is quite wider
I love that you give an honest review of products! You are just a normal person giving an honest opinion about what you think of the products, and it’s very helpful!
I'm glad to see you jumped on the boxes. They make the job so much quicker and easier. They are probably dragging because just like a drywall knife, they need broke in. It's just with every tool. But after I'd say 3-5 times of using them you'll see how much easier they get to use. A couple pointers I have for you is when doing the butt joints on the walls that go to the ceiling, you can just extend your handle to reach all the way up. And here's a little trick of the trade so you don't break your back filling them up. Set your pump mud bucket on top of another so you can set your handle against the ground and you can stand up and pump it into your box so you don't have to bend over as much. I'm happy to see you got them and I they help you out and save you time in the future
I appreciate you showing your first time using them , they show using them after years of working with them and make it look easy so I see that it does take a little bit of work to get comfortable with them thanks great video.
Great video as always. Maybe a comment or a video on the proper way to clean semi-automatic taping tools. I always see tapers with cans of wd40 to lubricate any hinge points but have never seen a box or tube being cleaned properly
It seems like from cheap plastic knives and pan all the way to fully auto tools, you never get away from crusties in your mud. The bane of alot of drywallers. 😃
Very impressive tbh, you picked em up really well Boxes are a life saver Sometimes I’ll use em to coat some light box detailing Keep practicing and you’ll reap the rewards! Happy taping!
Do they have "machine mud" out on the left coast? It's a bit more "runny" right out of the cardboard box to start with, and needs less mixing to get to the right consistency to use.
Only take one spring off if you decide to do that! Easier to use and that remaining spring will help the pressure plate open back up when the box is emptied!
You are quite talented to be working in the field and also making high quality videos at the same time. You have a good attitude about work and learning.
I usually run my flats on 3 and split my butt joints wide open but I also use the power assist boxes and keep my mud a bit thicker. I also use my boxes to coat my corner bead.
OK, Im barely into the video and spot a classic rookie mistake! However, I'm sure you have a legit excuse as to why you are finishing drywall while wearing a black shirt.....? For the video's sake. It looks better with black on white. Im watching because Im thinking about buying a set. Im not a finisher by trade. Yet I do finish my own work and I;m tired of hand finishing, [Patches, bathrooms, and kitchens] arent so bad, but I lose my profits on basements or bigger jobs, w/30+ sheets. As a union carpenter, I like to watch the finishers on commercial jobs to learn new tips/tricks/&/techniques. Although I'm always disappointed and even though they make the tools look easy, I'm convinced that most finishers these days, don't have to hand-finish during their apprenticeship, (besides applying miles of fire tape) they spend most of their time, being the wipe-down man, and cleaning all of the tools. (side note) I had a finisher down south (JAX FLA) that used hot mud (90 min) Even in his bazooka. I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it! We had just released 400 sheets to him and had him on other jobs as well. He had to hire new help, and as we all know Florida is a right-to-work state, and it is not uncommon for peeps to buy used tools at a flea-market then claim they are a Journeyman. The pay is so low ($16 p/h) that it's a flat rate across the board unless they're still wet behind their ears. Back to my story. I heard the finisher asking this guy several times if he was ok to run it in the bazooka. The kid reassured him every time that he knew and he was the man. etc, etc. Meanwhile and after the morning break as they were tooling up,, guess what? YES! He went to break and the 90min took off on him. Just like a MonoTube packed with concrete! He has a short day. I'm not sure what became of the bazooka. I'm sure he got it cleaned out eventually. Just not that day! Fun Facts; *In FLA or at least in NE Florida, the finishers use mesh tape on the seams, with 90min on the 1st ("BED") coat on the seams and on the corner bead. NOT IN STL, MO. Unless it's a small patch the finishers here avoid it like the plague! FLA**They call it TAPE~BED~SKIM. (Carpenter=Mechanic>@ $16 per hour, no difference in residential vs commercial. STL**They call it TAPE~FILL~SKIM (Carpenter=Journeyman>@??Cubs make?? per hour on residential Vs Commercial scale is $43.56. The finishers don't make as much as carpenters.
A lot, and you have to be thorough or there's hell to pay the next time you pull them out. That's why you don't see them that often on residential jobs.
The machine tapers I worked with whose sole occupation was jointing 40 plus hours a week would give the blade of the box and the moving parts a once over with a soft brush and leave it in a bucket of water over night and would wrap the pump in a air tight bag after pumping water through. When eventually they wished to clean the whole kit properly, all boxes, taping gun and pump then it was maybe an hour from start to finish.
Awesome that you they sent these to you. Think most ppl don’t get to use brand spanking new tools very often, and gotta say; as new tools are very nice and shiny…..the downside is, not broken in; so, after that’s done and go thru the learning curve… You’ll be flying thru all of this. Far as the “mess” on the box, like others have said, gotta “play” around with consistency for horizontals; as not might not always be the same as Verts or ceilings. You’ll get the hang of it though, and the once nice thing about these, imo, the learning curve doesn’t takes months or years to “figure out” and become EXCELLENT w/ them. Think how long it took ya to get that good with hawk/trowel or knife…… After a few jobs and “playing” around w/ mud constancy etc….you’ll be great, as will you automatically use the break to save your knuckles😉; also don’t forget to extend the pole when able; or grab the longer one, as you’ll get better results and for me, 100% easier using a longer handle then using a short one and be on a ladder (unless on scaffolding, than it’s so/so for me…but that’s my preference. As everyone has [their] method of madness😉). Also, can use a back brace/harness to help if doing a LOT of over head work, not just with these, and helps take the strain of neck/shoulder/back…again my preference, but I’m also not young anymore😄 Congrats on getting these, and happy muddying/taping✌🏻
Keep the blade clean to avoid leaving Christmas trees. Hook your fingers in the back of the box and the handle between your thumb and fingers use the box without the brake. I only use the brake when I can’t reach the walls or on the ceilings.
Few things I'd like to say. We like to coat around our plugs before we run our boxes. Makes for a nicer finish in my opinion. Also we like to patch our lift offs with a 6 inch knife before we sand and run the twleve (we will patch the 12 lift offs too). Just ensures you won't see them after paint. Great for bigger jobs!
I realize this vid is the years old. Start at the edge of the angle for the first pass. Second pass, go in farther. Any flags tend to stop where your started your first pass. With practice you can pretty much eliminate them
The reason that they do such a good job is because it has the profile of a curved drywall trowel. You know.....the trowels that you never learned to use from your learning to finish from UA-cam.
Hahaha, to some degree yes, crown is a part of it, but in my opinion a flat trowel is a more utilitarian taping tool you can have a curved but still need a flat, you can have a flat and not need a curved, the real reason they do such a good job is it makes a 5 step process and one step process
I've worked with some brilliant machine tapers in my 34 years installing drywall in every system invented. The boxes come in 8" 10" and 12" sizes. Most just use the 10 and 12 boxes after filling out the joints. Remember NEVER to use a fast set in a box. They are only for the air drying jointing compound.
With the exception of the QUICKBOX QSX Finishing Box. They are specifically made for quick set join compound. But only come in 6.5" and 8" I use the 6.5" with quick set join compound to cover tape. ;-)
@@Hp2G1Very true. I've looked at those quick set boxes and always been quite tempted. Does it feather the edges well or does it leave quite a bit to feather in by hand after please ?
@@MM22333 Hi Martin. The blade of the QUICKBOX QSX is made of some sort of plastic with no adjustment and a fix crown, so it doesn't feather the edges as well as the other boxes. But it does a good enough job that there are usually no sanding required. Cheers.
I use 90 min in my 10" box quite often. I just set a timer for 70 mins to give me time to rinse it and my pump out before it sets up. Then by the time I've cleaned them out it's ready for my 12" box and light weight for a tight skim
Checked the Level 5 company's flat boxes. The combos (2 boxes and pump) cost almost a grand. These seem like great professional tools but for a homeowner DIY guy that won't be taping every day, these are just too expensive.
You are incredible at everything you do. You are a Master of All Trades imo. Also I'm going off topic here but you remind me so much of Barry Allen aka The Flash aka Grant Gustin. Your definitely a superhero of your trade!!
Best to go thick mud 1st coat maybe 1 cup of water. Then run on 2 or 3 sometimes 1 if it's a really hollow joint. I go just slightly softer mud on Final coat and run on 3 or 4. Can usally get pretty solid flats with no bevels showing on this set up. Touch up any bad ones at the end.
Brian from drywall nation the Yoda of drywall tools, damn he makes it look easy. I’ve got my tools recently when you get it right it’s amazing but it took a while before I could stop cutting my thumb with the box…
I even use on small jobs. Fill with tube so I don't need to clean pump. I prefer the new Northstar multi one boxes and the fastar carbon handle. They are also local to British Columbia lower mainland
When I first started I had to wrap a towel around my waist to wipe all the mud on while boxing. It just comes with experience. Now I use thicker mud and dont really drop much at all anymore.
Great video, thanks! I just bought a Columbia set like you have, and it's great to see someone work through the learning curve. I'm glad I know what to expect 🙂👍
The box filler attachment is the best man .I bought the same set last year . When I got the box filler head for the tube my pump got put back in the box haven't used it since. Get the tape tech box filler rack csr building supply. So much better and no clean up really
I’m happy to see you using flat boxes. I’ve used them for years and would never do more than a few boards by hand anymore. Its faster to apply, easier to sand and cleaner. Couple tips for you: 1. you don’t have to prime the pump. 2. Play with the consistency of the mud. I like thin mud for the ceiling and thicker for the wall ( I know guys who like it the opposite, find what works for you). 3. Learn how to set the dial for how much mud. You should run a test strip if using a 10” box use a 12” knife and check your fill. It will save you time on sanding.
Happy Boxing to you. I’m sure you’ll love it.
I agree 👍, which boxes do you own?
I own a set of level 5 boxes. I’ve used several brands over the years and have not found much of a difference between them.
With a band new pump you will have to prime it, and in fact any time you clean it fully instead of just pumping and spraying it clean you will likely need to prime it again, especially if you prefer to run thicker mud
@Vancouver Carpenter: How to fix The Mess™ on your box:
Two things,
First, you're pushing too hard on the handle too soon before your box has made full contact with the wall, before you're ready to make your run. You're coming in with the box held at too steep of an angle to the wall. Consequently, mud gets forced down the length of the box as you roll the wheels forward to make contact with the wall. Incidentally, this is also why you're getting your "Christmas trees" at the start of each run; there's too much mud forming under the box, forcing it away from the wall. The wiper blades are literally floating (think hydroplaning, only instead you're mudplaning). A little bit of mud forming at the mouth of the box is a normal part of how the tool functions, but you've got to much happening in this case.
To fix this, when placing the box on the wall, keep the box as flat to the wall as possible as you approach, and ease back on the handle pressure until you have made solid, positive contact with the wall; try not to close the plunger door until the wheels have made contact with the wall, and only then apply pressure.
The only time I allow air space between my box and the wall is if I'm running a flat with a near empty box. The thing is, mud pools at the bottom of the box (which ever side you're holding it on) when running the horizontals, which can lead to improperly filled runs near the top until there's enough pressure to force mud all the way up and out of the mouth, if that makes any sense. To fix that, I'll listen for escaping air until I hear mud reaching the top of the mouth of the box, at which point I'll lay the box flat and start my run, but that takes practice and familiarity with the tool.
Second, in similar vein, your take off at the end of the run needs to be done a single, fluid motion: apply the break, rock the wheels off the wall ever so slightly while continuing to move the box forward, and smoothly pull away from the wall, all at once, but don't drag the blade or you'll cut into the fill. If you rock the wheels back too far while doing this, you run into the same problem as above, where too much mud is being forced out of the mouth of the box and under the plate, which will cause Christmas trees on your next run.
Happy boxing!
These are some great tips, thanks. I just starting to use the box (tapetech) i definitely gonna use your tips...
An awesome reply, thank you for taking the time to write this up as it will help me too
Couldnt hold myself but laugh when you kept dropping the head of the box on your hand 🤣 happens to me all the time
I've been taught that wing nuts are the designer's way of saying "finger tight." Pliers help discover how brittle the little wings are.
Excellent point
Columbia recommends/insists on giving the wingnuts a tighten with pliers. Check out Columbia's own UA-cam videos.
@@dmica07 Well, that's definitive. I stand corrected.
That’s definitely the way to go if you wanna go faster the boxes are really good and fast once you know how to use them properly. Good job
You are now my favoritee youtuber forever because your not using crappy level 5 tools, columbia 4 ever!
as a machine taper of 6 years, measure your water with a sponge, not your pan. 1 sponge for double, 2 sponges for taping
I personally run tools myself and do a lot of commercial work.typically I average 12 buckets of mud in 8 hr day boxing and push 11/2 cases of tape with bazoka so yes they 300 times faster than hand finishing
Every successful carpentry project requires a blood sacrifice. There's at least one drop of blood on everything I've ever built :)
The most important and most often used tool in my toolbox is the first aid kit
@@eyeTelevision You mean spit, a cutoff piece of a dirty rag, and electrical tape to hold it on right?
😂
@@maxgilbert18 you don’t even need the dirty rag part
@@mikek3951 Jesus
The "mess" on the box is a function of mud thinness, pressure and speed.
Basically the same thing you get if you push too hard on the towel for the speed you are moving, it spills over the side
Love watching your (documentary) videos. I really learn a lot.
All right I’ve been a finisher for almost 40 years, I’ve used boxes the majority of my time the boxes will get easier to run ,the more you run them because the knives and the blades will smooth out, right now they’re dragging a lot because they are brand new ,once you use the boxes two or three times you will notice the boxes will run a lot easier on the wall and smoother don’t push as hard and slow down towards the end and do a nice pull off I was hoping you got the angle box so you don’t Have to use the tube in the corners ,once you get the angle box ,it’will work better for you .,it will be a lot cleaner and a lot faster than your tube will ever be,just remember relax slow down when you pull off and you can do but joints with us the way you’re doing it now is wrong you need to split a 10 box on each side of the joint of the tape watch some videos on it good luck and you can do it God bless
Please learn to use punctuation.
@@tylercousins7779 I was doing speak and spell I trued to fix it for u lol
Very good info
He's right
I take side jobs and tape by hand still (but I have a corner flusher). The speed of these boxes makes me jealous
Seems like another tool thats great for larger jobs.
A lot of talk about weight of things on this Chanel my dad taught m the three rules of the job site it’s not heavy it doesn’t hurt and it’s not cold out…
I think you would really like using the one piece compact handle I’ve been using it for any low joints , also it’s better to split the butt joints then fill the middle on your second coat
Mud is way to thin.
Try using very little water on the 1st coat since it shrinks a lot.
And yes, take those springs off.
And why aren't you using the longer handle to begin with?😄
Thanks big bro for such natural and relative vlogs. You just not show skilled parts but you also show when you mess up like any other person do. And then how you use your brain to solve those tiny mistakes and confusions in a detailed manner.
So you have went to the dark side using a flat box I have always loved the fact that you have been a great teacher for hand finishing thanks for all your GREAT tips I love your videos you are the best!!!!
Love this channel. I always learn something, which has greatly improved my taping/spackling
Good job Ben. It's a little fun to see you struggling.😂
Our favorite drywall finisher (subcontractor) just started using boxes and the amount of time spent on the fill/finish coats lessened significantly. Thanks for the upload-
more money for you !!! all you care about
Great job Ben I was wondering when you were going to give your shoulder a break ... I was hand taping for years and i just went and bought all the boxes as well much easier on the body !!
Congrats on the new stuff . Awesome purchase.. great job using the tools . keep making your great videos. Make sure you add the angle box and nail spotter to your collections
Love the channel Ben, super helpful. Often I have to match an existing texture, like different skip trowels and such, on a job. You should do an episode on different textures and applications. Keep up the good work!
And I want to add that you are awesome for running tools you are not familiar with so people can see the learning curve. Very important.
Will you pleas6make feather your edge hoodies..
I dont want to do my own and feel like I'm stealing it.
One thing I have noticed is that I love using an 8" box for 1st coat over tape, easier than a 10". I also prefer it because I don't have to be as fussy on sanding as well because the 12" is quite wider
That what I learned Maxkil 8" then go wider.
Sometimes i use the 7" box
You will learn to love those taping tools
Been around since the 70's for a reason
I love that you give an honest review of products! You are just a normal person giving an honest opinion about what you think of the products, and it’s very helpful!
Thank you so much!!
I'm glad to see you jumped on the boxes. They make the job so much quicker and easier. They are probably dragging because just like a drywall knife, they need broke in. It's just with every tool. But after I'd say 3-5 times of using them you'll see how much easier they get to use. A couple pointers I have for you is when doing the butt joints on the walls that go to the ceiling, you can just extend your handle to reach all the way up. And here's a little trick of the trade so you don't break your back filling them up. Set your pump mud bucket on top of another so you can set your handle against the ground and you can stand up and pump it into your box so you don't have to bend over as much. I'm happy to see you got them and I they help you out and save you time in the future
The drywaller I higher for my large projects uses flat boxes. Comes out perfect. And very quick
I was just learning boxes when I left my apprenticeship. About to buy my own from Columbia. They are way better then doing it by hand.
I appreciate you showing your first time using them , they show using them after years of working with them and make it look easy so I see that it does take a little bit of work to get comfortable with them thanks great video.
Cool tools with a stingy price tag. But if your doing it daily on large jobs it's worth buying.
Take of the springs on the box works way better without them
Less pressure
Absolutely!!!
Great video as always. Maybe a comment or a video on the proper way to clean semi-automatic taping tools. I always see tapers with cans of wd40 to lubricate any hinge points but have never seen a box or tube being cleaned properly
It seems like from cheap plastic knives and pan all the way to fully auto tools, you never get away from crusties in your mud. The bane of alot of drywallers. 😃
What's up with the steel corners?
You don't stop making a mess.just mix right and go bro.ill box a 3000:sq. House in an hour.go go go man.
Very impressive tbh, you picked em up really well
Boxes are a life saver
Sometimes I’ll use em to coat some light box detailing
Keep practicing and you’ll reap the rewards!
Happy taping!
Do they have "machine mud" out on the left coast? It's a bit more "runny" right out of the cardboard box to start with, and needs less mixing to get to the right consistency to use.
Do you need the pump to fill the flat box with mud? Or can you do it in a different way?
Only take one spring off if you decide to do that! Easier to use and that remaining spring will help the pressure plate open back up when the box is emptied!
You are quite talented to be working in the field and also making high quality videos at the same time. You have a good attitude about work and learning.
I usually run my flats on 3 and split my butt joints wide open but I also use the power assist boxes and keep my mud a bit thicker. I also use my boxes to coat my corner bead.
Agreed.
Running a 10" on 1 and finish coat 12" on 2 is far too much filler for a normal setup. If it looks good, his boxes are not tuned properly
OK, Im barely into the video and spot a classic rookie mistake!
However, I'm sure you have a legit excuse as to why you are finishing drywall while wearing a black shirt.....?
For the video's sake. It looks better with black on white.
Im watching because Im thinking about buying a set. Im not a finisher by trade. Yet I do finish my own work and I;m tired of hand finishing, [Patches, bathrooms, and kitchens] arent so bad, but I lose my profits on basements or bigger jobs, w/30+ sheets.
As a union carpenter, I like to watch the finishers on commercial jobs to learn new tips/tricks/&/techniques. Although I'm always disappointed and even though they make the tools look easy, I'm convinced that most finishers these days, don't have to hand-finish during their apprenticeship, (besides applying miles of fire tape) they spend most of their time, being the wipe-down man, and cleaning all of the tools.
(side note) I had a finisher down south (JAX FLA) that used hot mud (90 min) Even in his bazooka. I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it! We had just released 400 sheets to him and had him on other jobs as well. He had to hire new help, and as we all know Florida is a right-to-work state, and it is not uncommon for peeps to buy used tools at a flea-market then claim they are a Journeyman. The pay is so low ($16 p/h) that it's a flat rate across the board unless they're still wet behind their ears.
Back to my story. I heard the finisher asking this guy several times if he was ok to run it in the bazooka. The kid reassured him every time that he knew and he was the man. etc, etc.
Meanwhile and after the morning break as they were tooling up,, guess what? YES! He went to break and the 90min took off on him. Just like a MonoTube packed with concrete! He has a short day. I'm not sure what became of the bazooka. I'm sure he got it cleaned out eventually. Just not that day!
Fun Facts;
*In FLA or at least in NE Florida, the finishers use mesh tape on the seams, with 90min on the 1st ("BED") coat on the seams and on the corner bead. NOT IN STL, MO. Unless it's a small patch the finishers here avoid it like the plague!
FLA**They call it TAPE~BED~SKIM. (Carpenter=Mechanic>@ $16 per hour, no difference in residential vs commercial.
STL**They call it TAPE~FILL~SKIM (Carpenter=Journeyman>@??Cubs make?? per hour on residential Vs Commercial scale is $43.56. The finishers don't make as much as carpenters.
I would have like to see what it takes to clean the flatbox after use.
A lot, and you have to be thorough or there's hell to pay the next time you pull them out. That's why you don't see them that often on residential jobs.
The machine tapers I worked with whose sole occupation was jointing 40 plus hours a week would give the blade of the box and the moving parts a once over with a soft brush and leave it in a bucket of water over night and would wrap the pump in a air tight bag after pumping water through. When eventually they wished to clean the whole kit properly, all boxes, taping gun and pump then it was maybe an hour from start to finish.
Awesome that you they sent these to you. Think most ppl don’t get to use brand spanking new tools very often, and gotta say; as new tools are very nice and shiny…..the downside is, not broken in; so, after that’s done and go thru the learning curve…
You’ll be flying thru all of this. Far as the “mess” on the box, like others have said, gotta “play” around with consistency for horizontals; as not might not always be the same as Verts or ceilings. You’ll get the hang of it though, and the once nice thing about these, imo, the learning curve doesn’t takes months or years to “figure out” and become EXCELLENT w/ them. Think how long it took ya to get that good with hawk/trowel or knife…… After a few jobs and “playing” around w/ mud constancy etc….you’ll be great, as will you automatically use the break to save your knuckles😉; also don’t forget to extend the pole when able; or grab the longer one, as you’ll get better results and for me, 100% easier using a longer handle then using a short one and be on a ladder (unless on scaffolding, than it’s so/so for me…but that’s my preference. As everyone has [their] method of madness😉). Also, can use a back brace/harness to help if doing a LOT of over head work, not just with these, and helps take the strain of neck/shoulder/back…again my preference, but I’m also not young anymore😄
Congrats on getting these, and happy muddying/taping✌🏻
Run it L-R than R-L to get a consistent fill....so much faster than hand taping
Leave switches and plugs out of boxes til after taping, lol........
Got a lot of failing drywall tape on my den ceiling. Need to remove and re-tape, any videos on that?
Keep the blade clean to avoid leaving Christmas trees. Hook your fingers in the back of the box and the handle between your thumb and fingers use the box without the brake. I only use the brake when I can’t reach the walls or on the ceilings.
Hey Ben, thanks for the tips and tricks! How do you dispose of the nasty water at the end of the day/job?
I always dump mine in the drive, after it is driven over a few times it goes away
Maybe you should try removing your springs, so your not pushing so hard. I guess it all depends on who’s running it. Good job my friend.
The only flat boxes sold around me are $400! It's another $300 for the handle. I think I'll just do it by hand...
If your a drywall taper as main profession would be impossible to make money without automatic tools....so much faster and cleaner
That drill wire near the bucket of water.....no bueno:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Few things I'd like to say. We like to coat around our plugs before we run our boxes. Makes for a nicer finish in my opinion.
Also we like to patch our lift offs with a 6 inch knife before we sand and run the twleve (we will patch the 12 lift offs too). Just ensures you won't see them after paint.
Great for bigger jobs!
Good tip I'm gonna try that out we patch our liftoffs as well never coated around plugs first it does make sense thanks
I realize this vid is the years old.
Start at the edge of the angle for the first pass. Second pass, go in farther. Any flags tend to stop where your started your first pass. With practice you can pretty much eliminate them
I've been doing life all wrong... I need to get me some UA-cam money and sponsors so I can get some cool shit to make my life easier...
Christmas trees happen when your mud is too thin
not gonna lie that happen to me as well and as well brand new columbia 10” 12” mud box but when i used the 12” i remember how to use one 😂😂
Keep practicing and you will never want to hand finish again I promise you this
Better have a good power sander, and vacuum no light sanding these things put on heavy coats, do great but sanding is the finish
Faster thicker press harder. now you have the tools we will get more videos well done Ben :)
Fkn hell man you look like aged 10 years since ur last video r u alright...
I haven't heard about that tool since I was 25 *Year's* old!
Curious, how long have these been around, never heard of these?
These boxes seem to be a pretty good workout for the arms! 💪🏻💪🏻 😉
Maxkil say there not good for but joints.
FYI, the Colombia link is not working.
The reason that they do such a good job is because it has the profile of a curved drywall trowel. You know.....the trowels that you never learned to use from your learning to finish from UA-cam.
Hahaha, to some degree yes, crown is a part of it, but in my opinion a flat trowel is a more utilitarian taping tool you can have a curved but still need a flat, you can have a flat and not need a curved, the real reason they do such a good job is it makes a 5 step process and one step process
Thanks Ben FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE
PRÁCTICE AND PATIENCE WILL MAKE YOU AN EXPERT ….
THAT HELPED ME
GOOD VIDEO 👍
Bulky heavy tools and expensive….
Can you do skim coating with these boxes?
Hey ben thought u didnt like metal corner bead😊
So you make a video with no training on the box? 😂
I've worked with some brilliant machine tapers in my 34 years installing drywall in every system invented. The boxes come in 8" 10" and 12" sizes. Most just use the 10 and 12 boxes after filling out the joints. Remember NEVER to use a fast set in a box. They are only for the air drying jointing compound.
With the exception of the QUICKBOX QSX Finishing Box. They are specifically made for quick set join compound. But only come in 6.5" and 8" I use the 6.5" with quick set join compound to cover tape. ;-)
@@Hp2G1Very true. I've looked at those quick set boxes and always been quite tempted. Does it feather the edges well or does it leave quite a bit to feather in by hand after please ?
@@MM22333 Hi Martin. The blade of the QUICKBOX QSX is made of some sort of plastic with no adjustment and a fix crown, so it doesn't feather the edges as well as the other boxes. But it does a good enough job that there are usually no sanding required. Cheers.
@@Hp2G1 thanks for that. I'm a pretty neat hand taper but I like the really straight lines a box leaves and of course it's about 4 times quicker.
I use 90 min in my 10" box quite often. I just set a timer for 70 mins to give me time to rinse it and my pump out before it sets up. Then by the time I've cleaned them out it's ready for my 12" box and light weight for a tight skim
Hopefully my comments help you good luck
Checked the Level 5 company's flat boxes. The combos (2 boxes and pump) cost almost a grand. These seem like great professional tools but for a homeowner DIY guy that won't be taping every day, these are just too expensive.
You are incredible at everything you do. You are a Master of All Trades imo. Also I'm going off topic here but you remind me so much of Barry Allen aka The Flash aka Grant Gustin. Your definitely a superhero of your trade!!
My finisher used flats for butt joints to. Just pulled the finish coats by hand
Best to go thick mud 1st coat maybe 1 cup of water. Then run on 2 or 3 sometimes 1 if it's a really hollow joint. I go just slightly softer mud on Final coat and run on 3 or 4. Can usally get pretty solid flats with no bevels showing on this set up. Touch up any bad ones at the end.
Vancouver Carpenter, type-O in your title, fix it before your English teacher cries/
"First time using Drywall Flatboxes in Year's!!!"
Brian from drywall nation the Yoda of drywall tools, damn he makes it look easy. I’ve got my tools recently when you get it right it’s amazing but it took a while before I could stop cutting my thumb with the box…
I even use on small jobs. Fill with tube so I don't need to clean pump. I prefer the new Northstar multi one boxes and the fastar carbon handle. They are also local to British Columbia lower mainland
You have experienced the pinch of finger I have experienced when first time using it.....after a few time..you will get better...lolz
When I first started I had to wrap a towel around my waist to wipe all the mud on while boxing. It just comes with experience. Now I use thicker mud and dont really drop much at all anymore.
U know u don’t haft to move the flat box side to side to fill it up just hold it in the middle and pump fast it will spread out by itself
Are these for diy’ers with just occasional drywall needs? Cost seems super high, making them for drywallers only. Is that right?
Stop using lightweight joint compound use mid weight joint compound it’s more durable and won’t leave scratches when you sand
I'm 56 yr old drywall finisher . I started hand finishing at 16 yrs old, I think I'm going to buy me some of these box tools.
I only use columbia material, you will not be disappointed, however be sure to adjust the stops of your finishing boxes;)
Wipe down behind your boxing if your using 10’box use 12’knife and if your using 12’box use 14’knife
I don't know what it is, but I just can't stop having a smile on my face while watching your videos! I like you a lot!
Stop using screws on your Corner bead screws rust after time and will bleed through the paint instead use a galvanized drywall nail
Great video, thanks! I just bought a Columbia set like you have, and it's great to see someone work through the learning curve. I'm glad I know what to expect 🙂👍
Is this available to rent in Vancouver BC? Keep up the good work, thanks.
Your being too break happy and lifting off the wall while your still running your joints. thats why it's pouring out
The box filler attachment is the best man .I bought the same set last year . When I got the box filler head for the tube my pump got put back in the box haven't used it since. Get the tape tech box filler rack csr building supply. So much better and no clean up really
They are like over 300 dollars, are there other tools like that one, but less expensive? For DIY ppl?
I just bought a set but it only has an 8 and 10, do I need a 12 you think?
bought used by the way otherwise I would have done 10 and 12