Great video. You explained everything very well. I do my adjustments a little different but still get the same results. Example. I measure free play standing outside the truck with tape measuring off the floor.
As JAMdiversified pointed out, the clarification should have been made that the adjuster bolt is ONLY to establish the proper 1/2" throw out bearing-to-brake disc clearance which is the 1st step in the process. Measure gap, depress clutch, turn bolt, release clutch and recheck clearance. Repeat as needed. Next is external linkage adjustment (if needed) to establish the 1/8" yoke fingers-to-throw out bearing wear pad clearance. Once set, brake disc crush should be correct with the depressed peddle still off the floor. NOW check peddle free travel and if insufficient adjust peddle stop bolt to yield spec dimension (typically 1-1/2" to 2" as you stated) or determine what portion of the external linkage is worn or the cause of improper travel. Once everything is adjusted correctly and to spec, readjustment should be performed when free travel is half that of original.
Cannot count how many times I've had to undo. Other clutch adjustments. I always tell them.1/2"gap first. Then the linkage. It seems certain mechanic's adjust linkage only (apparently it's the easy way)but it's totally wrong.ass backwards. Kinda glad hydraulic clutch is in more.. so now.them mechanics cant adjust the linkage anymore . Now it seems every hydraulic clutch needs adjusting. Free play hard to tell. I tell them. If the clutch brake dosen't work(on hydraulic). Adjust clutch.
As a mechanic I can tell you how many times I have gotten called out to replace a clutch after a shop told a driver that the clutch is shot and will cost $3,000+- to fix. Only to find it's just out of adjustment. Even a guy that owned a small fleet that had been in the business 30+ years didn't know the difference between a wore out clutch and one out of adjustment. As a young mechanic I worked on log trucks for a logging company. Their drivers averaged 20+ years driving there. Yes they paid drivers well. Clutches were replaced when transmission failure or motor replacement happen just a matter of routine . But if a driver actually wore out a clutch he was fired. Guess what I never needed to replace a worn out clutch. I think there are many Dishonest mechanics out there.
@@bstinson3475 , I always shift without using clutch once I'm out of 1st gear ofcourse. Got 500k miles on original clutch and 13speed. Shifts like a dream. In my opinion you actually save the clutch if you know what you doing.
The only time I use the clutch is reverse or on first gear and believe me I have ever had a problem with any clutch and I have been driving for 21 years,I think when you take care of the equipment that you operate when you do it right it would last long time and also I agree that there are some bad mechanics out there that there just want to charge just to charge.
Thanks 👍 but I have a 3208 cat to a 13 speed fuller eton tranm never had problem with anything it's a1984 Ford 8000 I am 67 years Old I will be doing it alone and will try to get it done with out dropping tram don't know if it is possible 😢
Change the name of this video to how to something like, "how to check clutch specs or how to measure clutch specs" because all you did was point to where to go to adjust it. What if they go underneath and don't see that adjustment bolt? Hiw they get it to the bottom and other important things
What about if your clutch is just on or off no slipping is hard to take off on a hill loaded I have a inch of free play pedal 1/8 gap for throw out bearing and a 1/2 gap?
Why do I loose my clutch brake when I adjust clutch. If I go 6 clicks I won't go into gear. If I back it off 3 clicks it works again but I hardly have any free travel in pedal. It will hardly shut off engine brake if u touch pedal, thats how short free travel is
Ok. Knuckle head.... internal specs, 1/8 inch between the fork, and the through out bearing where they pivot.... not on the sides of the fork, and bearing. 5/16 to 3/8 between the clutch brake and the throw out bearing. I’ve never heard or seen a feeler gauge between a clutch brake and bearing... if there’s a gap, then clutch brake is not doing its job. Alway remember internal adjustments before any external
Jarod corrected his mistake and proper bearing to brake disc dimension is 1/2" as he states. This can be confirmed by the clutch adjustment instructions that come with a new clutch. Special tools like his and similar are in fact 1/2" for the bearing-to-brake and 1/8" yoke finger-to-wear pad clearances. Those same instructions will include the feeler gauge check but experienced mechanics can see the disc compress or not and don't need one to see the brake is going to do its job.
@@jrod3286 That would be a good idea as although the original is informative and mostly correct you can make it better. I'd incorporate an actual adjustment for demonstration purposes as already suggested. Good job.
You were correct up until you advised to make any adjustments to get it into spec with the quik adjust bolt. Once the initial 1/2” gap is set ALL OTHER ADJUSTMENTS ARE EXTERNAL. IE adjust the linkage NOT the clutch quick adjust mechanism to obtain clutch brake squeeze and freeplay.
Your completely wrong. This is for a 2 stage truck clutch, not a clutch in a car or tractor or pickup . You never change the external linkage on a big truck
Yo pensaba que los mecánicos gringos eran más cuidadosos con la limpieza este mecánico gringo se sube al asiento con su overol mugroso QUE ALGUIEN ME EXPLIQUE?
My truck is shaking at 1000 rpm and vibrating a lot ... then it phases out by 1500 rpm ... struggles to go up hill even without hauling any load on board
@@lild630 you are exactly right ... i got all injectors changed ... 2 were bad ... now its running good ... but now out of business cuz insurance premium went up...
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Once 14mm RB to Clutch brake the feeler gauge should be held 25mm off the floor if not don’t touch the quick adjust it is only used to set clutch opening travel CB crush is all mechanical throw
I got Eaton Fuller 13 speed. I replaced my clutch three months ago and now trying sometimes not to change the gear when increases the speed. And the clutch pedal play is none at all since they gave me the truck. Now passed the three months warranty. What do you think the hesitant on the clutch? please give me your advise if I can fix easily with no much cost maybe adjustment? Thank you!
Get in there with a die grinder in a long burning tool and cut the old clutch brake out of there. Then there are several options for ones that can be snapped on there after the fact
Jarod Johnson I Meant The Measurement Taken Should Be (1/8") Between The Yolk Tips & The Bearing Wear Pads. In This Video It Looks Like You'Re Measuring The Distance From The Clutch To The Bearing.
It was a recent video but I wish you could have been more informative you know about things by you talking about what this is and that is there is a lot of people that don't know the terminology or what parts are called example of the release bearing a lot of people don't know that and we never seen you turn or just nothing because it was already everything was correct it would be nice if you do a video on one that is out of adjustment and that needs adjusting because I really didn't learn nothing off your video I'm sorry thank you maybe another video would be great
Great video. You explained everything very well. I do my adjustments a little different but still get the same results. Example. I measure free play standing outside the truck with tape measuring off the floor.
As JAMdiversified pointed out, the clarification should have been made that the adjuster bolt is ONLY to establish the proper 1/2" throw out bearing-to-brake disc clearance which is the 1st step in the process. Measure gap, depress clutch, turn bolt, release clutch and recheck clearance. Repeat as needed.
Next is external linkage adjustment (if needed) to establish the 1/8" yoke fingers-to-throw out bearing wear pad clearance. Once set, brake disc crush should be correct with the depressed peddle still off the floor.
NOW check peddle free travel and if insufficient adjust peddle stop bolt to yield spec dimension (typically 1-1/2" to 2" as you stated) or determine what portion of the external linkage is worn or the cause of improper travel.
Once everything is adjusted correctly and to spec, readjustment should be performed when free travel is half that of original.
Cannot count how many times I've had to undo. Other clutch adjustments.
I always tell them.1/2"gap first. Then the linkage.
It seems certain mechanic's adjust linkage only (apparently it's the easy way)but it's totally wrong.ass backwards.
Kinda glad hydraulic clutch is in more.. so now.them mechanics cant adjust the linkage anymore .
Now it seems every hydraulic clutch needs adjusting. Free play hard to tell.
I tell them. If the clutch brake dosen't work(on hydraulic). Adjust clutch.
I need a good mechanic. Can you share your contact info with me please. I have several repairs i need done to my 2017 International ProStar.
That creeping on the creeper was creepy 🤣
As a mechanic I can tell you how many times I have gotten called out to replace a clutch after a shop told a driver that the clutch is shot and will cost $3,000+- to fix. Only to find it's just out of adjustment. Even a guy that owned a small fleet that had been in the business 30+ years didn't know the difference between a wore out clutch and one out of adjustment.
As a young mechanic I worked on log trucks for a logging company. Their drivers averaged 20+ years driving there. Yes they paid drivers well.
Clutches were replaced when transmission failure or motor replacement happen just a matter of routine . But if a driver actually wore out a clutch he was fired. Guess what I never needed to replace a worn out clutch. I think there are many Dishonest mechanics out there.
Tim Erickson a lot of people like to shift without the clutch.. Very bad in my opinion.
So true Tim. Makes one wonder how many truck owners got charged $3K for a "new clutch" when the shop took 10-15 minutes to do an adjustment.
@@bstinson3475 , I always shift without using clutch once I'm out of 1st gear ofcourse. Got 500k miles on original clutch and 13speed. Shifts like a dream. In my opinion you actually save the clutch if you know what you doing.
The only time I use the clutch is reverse or on first gear and believe me I have ever had a problem with any clutch and I have been driving for 21 years,I think when you take care of the equipment that you operate when you do it right it would last long time and also I agree that there are some bad mechanics out there that there just want to charge just to charge.
@@bstinson3475 floating gears is easier on the truck
Thanks 👍 but I have a 3208 cat to a 13 speed fuller eton tranm never had problem with anything it's a1984 Ford 8000 I am 67 years Old I will be doing it alone and will try to get it done with out dropping tram don't know if it is possible 😢
Change the name of this video to how to something like, "how to check clutch specs or how to measure clutch specs" because all you did was point to where to go to adjust it.
What if they go underneath and don't see that adjustment bolt? Hiw they get it to the bottom and other important things
Great video, studying for T3 test and makes sense how you explain it. 👍 subbed
What about if your clutch is just on or off no slipping is hard to take off on a hill loaded I have a inch of free play pedal 1/8 gap for throw out bearing and a 1/2 gap?
What? Are you serious?? That 1/8 bar goes sideways between the fork and bearing! Hence an 1/8 gap!
Why do I loose my clutch brake when I adjust clutch. If I go 6 clicks I won't go into gear. If I back it off 3 clicks it works again but I hardly have any free travel in pedal. It will hardly shut off engine brake if u touch pedal, thats how short free travel is
All the ball ends are good on clutch linkage.
Ok. Knuckle head.... internal specs, 1/8 inch between the fork, and the through out bearing where they pivot.... not on the sides of the fork, and bearing.
5/16 to 3/8 between the clutch brake and the throw out bearing. I’ve never heard or seen a feeler gauge between a clutch brake and bearing... if there’s a gap, then clutch brake is not doing its job. Alway remember internal adjustments before any external
Bill Robison Sorry man I literally learned this shit while I was filming this video for school. I suppose I should re-shoot with the correct info.
clutch brake squeeze test uses feeler guage, as per eaton road ranger manual
Jarod corrected his mistake and proper bearing to brake disc dimension is 1/2" as he states. This can be confirmed by the clutch adjustment instructions that come with a new clutch. Special tools like his and similar are in fact 1/2" for the bearing-to-brake and 1/8" yoke finger-to-wear pad clearances. Those same instructions will include the feeler gauge check but experienced mechanics can see the disc compress or not and don't need one to see the brake is going to do its job.
@@jrod3286 That would be a good idea as although the original is informative and mostly correct you can make it better. I'd incorporate an actual adjustment for demonstration purposes as already suggested. Good job.
Thank you for the video 👍
thank u good job !
If the gears are grinding when I move from a complete stop, do I need to adjust the clutch ? Or there’s a bigger problem?
Clutch is wearing u can add a clutch brake spacer for about 10bucs should last about a year
Get a mechanic to take a look at your clutch break
in order to do a good job sometimes you just need to adjust the pedal.
The 1/8 inch should be between fork and release bearing pads
yes thats what i was taught.
Same here he definitely did not do the 1/8th measurement correctly
been teaching diesel for 23 years. yes
1/8" is between fork and release bearing pad.
The forks are called a yoke.
At least there wasn't so much background noise.
Hi thank you so much for the information
I need a good mechanic. Can you share your contact info with me please. I have several repairs i need done to my 2017 International ProStar.
Why would you make this video on a truck that doesn’t need an adjustment? 🤔
Thanks for the info on the 3 check points.
Amigo se ve que tú vídeo es muy bueno pero podrías subir uno donde las explicaciones se hagan en español te lo agradecería infinitamente
ua-cam.com/video/deGYQ5Z4-Xc/v-deo.html
Español
Fuck it's America. Speak the language
Cruncking/ grinding noise when l am in high gears ,high speed or in neutral high speed . .. Is it Drive shaft or clutch ?
I'm guessing that was a brand new clutch um mine is a steady rain of dirt grease clutch dust
You were correct up until you advised to make any adjustments to get it into spec with the quik adjust bolt. Once the initial 1/2” gap is set ALL OTHER ADJUSTMENTS ARE EXTERNAL. IE adjust the linkage NOT the clutch quick adjust mechanism to obtain clutch brake squeeze and freeplay.
Your completely wrong. This is for a 2 stage truck clutch, not a clutch in a car or tractor or pickup . You never change the external linkage on a big truck
RJ 1999 no you are wrong read the instructions once 1/2 “
RJ 1999 inch gap is obtained all adjustments for more squeeze or free play are external
Excellent video
Lost me at the 5 hour long intro
Maybe put a seat cover on the seat.
this is diesel school, they practice on these trucks
29 year Eaton Rep. Good job…
Thank you Mike
Yo pensaba que los mecánicos gringos eran más cuidadosos con la limpieza este mecánico gringo se sube al asiento con su overol mugroso QUE ALGUIEN ME EXPLIQUE?
Wow..Poor driver seat..his dirty coveralls
My truck is shaking at 1000 rpm and vibrating a lot ... then it phases out by 1500 rpm ... struggles to go up hill even without hauling any load on board
Might be an injector or injector O-ring
@@lild630 you are exactly right ... i got all injectors changed ... 2 were bad ... now its running good ... but now out of business cuz insurance premium went up...
@@rizwantarar4208 sorry to hear that. My truck's getting an injector replaced now and it was doing the same thing.
How long does it take to adjust??
Thank you!!! I apreciate it , its was very educative and useful inf . I'm having trouble with my clutch .
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Once 14mm RB to Clutch brake the feeler gauge should be held 25mm off the floor if not don’t touch the quick adjust it is only used to set clutch opening travel CB crush is all mechanical throw
👍🏿
Thank you!!!
What’s the length of the tool you built there. Not much help without the info on that
What year of truck was this
Yup thanks
Hi Is that clutch self adjustment or no
That's The Correct 1/8" Measurement? 🤔
Lizzy V can you be more specific? are you asking if the measurement was taken correctly or if the bar stock is actually 1/8"
Lizzy V yes you are right i didn't even realize i did that until i watched the video again. my apologises
@@jrod3286 what's going on here? And how did you make that tool?
EN CARRETERA NO ES IGUAL NO ES LA ORESISION DE SU DETALLE ESO SE SABE EN DESPEGUE
I got Eaton Fuller 13 speed. I replaced my clutch three months ago and now trying sometimes not to change the gear when increases the speed. And the clutch pedal play is none at all since they gave me the truck. Now passed the three months warranty. What do you think the hesitant on the clutch? please give me your advise if I can fix easily with no much cost maybe adjustment? Thank you!
A new clutch will seat itself after a bit of use and you may lose your freeplay, this is normal. It just needs to be adjusted.
Do you have to pull the transmission to replace the clutch brake?
Get in there with a die grinder in a long burning tool and cut the old clutch brake out of there. Then there are several options for ones that can be snapped on there after the fact
Good presentation, Thanks William
Great job. Thank you.
Is it necessary to have a cover plate on that?
90 percent of the trucks I see they’re long gone. But if it had one I put it back.
Great work brother 👍👍
Good Video 👍
All 3 are adjusted with one bolt?
Greenhorn duh
Wow is all I have to say lol
Jarod Johnson I Meant The Measurement Taken Should Be (1/8") Between The Yolk Tips & The Bearing Wear Pads. In This Video It Looks Like You'Re Measuring The Distance From The Clutch To The Bearing.
ok
exactly what I thought he's not measuring the right thing at all with his 1/8th he even said its to chek the ''freeplay'' as we call it
Lizzy V Exactly. By the way this guy placed his filler gage thats exactly how it looks. Good catch.
Legal420 now! 🎅
very good video.
It was a recent video but I wish you could have been more informative you know about things by you talking about what this is and that is there is a lot of people that don't know the terminology or what parts are called example of the release bearing a lot of people don't know that and we never seen you turn or just nothing because it was already everything was correct it would be nice if you do a video on one that is out of adjustment and that needs adjusting because I really didn't learn nothing off your video I'm sorry thank you maybe another video would be great
Potro ser en español?😀
esta perron saver eso atoda madre
wow this is a little overboard!
Too long of intro
IF YOURSELF TRUCK HAS A HYDRAULIC CLUTCH THERE IS NO ADJUSTMENT. LOOK AROUND FIREWALL FOR A MASTER CYLINDER...