Great work! Your videos are excellent; concise yet comprehensive with good video of the job at hand. Your relaxed manner with an appropriate amount of clear instructions make the videos very easy to watch and builds confidence, thank you!
Hi, good tutorial ! Is it possible once the wheel is off to spray auto wheels blit hamber on the breaks or any iron removing chemical? Can anyone please advise thank you
Just a few tips, I wouldn't use an engineering brick as used here as they have very sharp edges like razors and can cut the tyre, they also can shatter easily under pressure causing the car to move suddenly. If you are going to support the car metal to metal it's best to use a piece of dense wood between to help prevent jack or stand jumping out. Finally, the copper grease film is there to stop the alloy wheel 'welding' itself to the disc due to reaction of different types of metal. IE, Corrosion, sometimes even tyre fitters can't remove them when this happens, and it will often!
Was gonna ask the same, would be great to have a list/links to all the tools/equipment used and time taken to get the job done…just my 2c, love the videos 🙏😎✌️
I have impact sockets myself and on the odd occasion when I couldn't find the right impact socket I have used the normal 6 point socket and recently trying to remove my wheel nuts that had been done up so tight a breaker bar couldn't budge them I used a normal socket on an impact gun and not even a scratch on the socket and it was also a cheep socket aswell
They are two different things. The jack lifts the car and the axle stand is the fixed bit that looks like a tripod that you put under the axle traditionally
The discs do looked quite worn and lipped actually. In the long term it would be better to renew them and before you fit them spray the non friction bright parts with the ultra high temperature paint to prolong the finish. Use a cardboard template with a circular cut out to mask the friction surface. If you are really keen then you can paint the edges too. On your car with black wheels I would have actually stuck with matt black, but it is a matter of taste.
I wouldn’t call that a worn disc. All brake discs will have wear, that’s how they work. But I’ve worked on lots of cars with high mileage over the years, so maybe I’m used to seeing a lot worse. I don’t see the point of renewing parts that are working fine, especially when they’re £300 for 2. They’re painted from factory, so if you did fit a new pair, you wouldn’t need to re-paint them. The paint in the video is VHT. The factory colour is silver, not black.
My Megane RS brembos had gone proper ginger after i cheaped out not getting coated discs. I used a matt black stove/bbq paint, silver stands out far too much for my liking.
Yeah, I just went for the OEM look, it does go quite well with the white to be honest! Love the Megane RS, went in a liquid yellow r26 once that was mapped to 275 bhp, still one of the fastest things on the road I have ever been in!
It's too late, but just to say: These rotors are toasted. Rear discs for W204 - thickness 26mm, minimal 24mm, so more than 1 mm wear is not acceptable.
I have the same issue with my 2011 Jaguar XJ. I was all ready to do it but wasn't sure how it would play with the calipers etc, but Im glad to see this video to give me a bit of extra confidence. Thanks for taking the time. Great result.
@@47k_dc no im not, except once in a while when wet and/or cold, they groan a little while i'm in the driveway, but as soon as they're dried off they're totally normal. I haven't dont the paint trick on the calipers yet though.
@@CarThought because it is the same reason that you never paint or clear coat parts of a rim where the bolts go. You need to have metal on metal and not metal on paint. Even if you torque down your rim...the paint between the parts can cause the bond to loosen up.
How thick is your paint? The contact area between the back of the rim and the disc surface isn’t bonding anything mechanically or chemically. There are 5 bolts clamping the wheel onto the hub @130Nm. There isn’t any paint on the threads. The disc is sandwiched between the rim and hub.. it’s not a fastening. In the video you’re commenting on, you’ll notice the factory black wheel bolts are also powder coated all over.
@@CarThought you may want to ask around where good guys resurface and repaint rims. They will tell you the same...no paint where proper surface contact is needed.
Ah, it’s second hand information? If you could ask whoever has told you, that would save us some time 😄. I can see why they don’t paint the wheel mating surface due to heat cycles from the disc, and potentially cracking the paint from the back, thus ruining the visible wheel paint surface over time… But from a mechanical point of view it shouldn’t make any difference.
Nice work however not a fan of drilled discs as they as for the work it’s my experience that it will over time chip and flake. Next time cover your paint work all in seeing is over spray and it will have got on your fenders…. Mind you not somthing a bit of petrol won’t remove I painted my mx5 nc rosters a mid of purple and blue but them just replaced my stock discs with black mtec grooved discs
Thanks. Why did garages always want to replace things in pairs. I have one brake disc at drivers side front needing replaced. Two garages have said. We only charge in pairs, so two brake discs required, plus two sets of pads??? Same deal with the rear. Rear passenger side needs a new disc. The garage said, 'We can only do it on pairs, so you need 4 new disks and 4 sets of pads. Seriously?? It's a Jaguar XE, R-Sport, 2016 model. Love from Scotland, ❤ X.
I would be more concerned about why your brake discs and pads are wearing more on one side than the other! But it's always best to replace both sides at the same time to ensure even braking performance, you really don't want one side braking less than the other, this not only can cause your car to pull to one side when you brake, but also puts uneven stress on your suspension components and tyres. Another big reason is - Brake pads and discs almost always come in a pack for each axle (i.e two wheels) which is 4 brake pads, and 2 discs. If you went to an auto parts shop and asked for brake pads for one wheel they'd look at you like you were crazy.
There wasn’t a lot of overspray, but I’d recommend masking off around the wheel arch too!
Great work! Your videos are excellent; concise yet comprehensive with good video of the job at hand. Your relaxed manner with an appropriate amount of clear instructions make the videos very easy to watch and builds confidence, thank you!
Thanks mate! Always found cars very therapeutic to work on.. (as long as there’s a good supply of tea) everyone’s a winner.
Put a plastic bag over the whole thing, cut a hole for the bits you want paint and tape in place,
Definitely liked the simplicity you showed and the instruction. I've got a different car & plan to do this before winter arrives.
Just came here for the start up sound effect - such a beast. Nice tidy up job, and great use of the Sun.
Haha, I heard one with no mufflers on the other day 😲
How does it hold now?are they still silver?
Great result! Put Gyeon Rim on te sprayed surface and it will stay nice for even longer. We always do on our clients cars.
I had exactly the same problem with my SLK. I painted mine with black hammer paint ( by brush) looks great and requires no masking
i have a type of spine disease so cant do this on my own how much to do it for me i have the same car
should have masked off the mounting surface too. Some "metal prep" might help too
any idea on 4x4 disc brake? it wove like that
Did you clean and ceramic coat the wheels when they were off the car?
great work, for the process you did, but the spraying paint overspray made me cringe so much
Thanks. Yeah, it just depends how much time you have. The paint particles just wiped off.
Amazing video, as always!!!!!!!!
What is that drill attachment called
I will do this on my Bmw E60. Thank you.
Looking great mate 👍
You just made us save a lot of money
Another great vid. Love watching the work on the beast!
Hi, good tutorial ! Is it possible once the wheel is off to spray auto wheels blit hamber on the breaks or any iron removing chemical? Can anyone please advise thank you
Just a few tips, I wouldn't use an engineering brick as used here as they have very sharp edges like razors and can cut the tyre, they also can shatter easily under pressure causing the car to move suddenly.
If you are going to support the car metal to metal it's best to use a piece of dense wood between to help prevent jack or stand jumping out.
Finally, the copper grease film is there to stop the alloy wheel 'welding' itself to the disc due to reaction of different types of metal.
IE, Corrosion, sometimes even tyre fitters can't remove them when this happens, and it will often!
I did exactly the same on mine, although I used motip Alu zinc spray, better corrosion protection and same look!
Awesome! How long did it take to do all 4?
Probably about 45 minutes each, including drying with the heat gun!
Was gonna ask the same, would be great to have a list/links to all the tools/equipment used and time taken to get the job done…just my 2c, love the videos 🙏😎✌️
I have impact sockets myself and on the odd occasion when I couldn't find the right impact socket I have used the normal 6 point socket and recently trying to remove my wheel nuts that had been done up so tight a breaker bar couldn't budge them I used a normal socket on an impact gun and not even a scratch on the socket and it was also a cheep socket aswell
3:41 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Beautiful! U just cleared my headache I will be doing this to my car thank you lad
Use hammerite, holds much longer
Nice job. How long did this last?
just a SUPER random thing to ask lol but why do the brits call a jack stand an “axel stand”? ..
They are two different things. The jack lifts the car and the axle stand is the fixed bit that looks like a tripod that you put under the axle traditionally
Ryobi with insane torque. Thats a good one🤣🤣🤣
The discs do looked quite worn and lipped actually. In the long term it would be better to renew them and before you fit them spray the non friction bright parts with the ultra high temperature paint to prolong the finish. Use a cardboard template with a circular cut out to mask the friction surface. If you are really keen then you can paint the edges too. On your car with black wheels I would have actually stuck with matt black, but it is a matter of taste.
I wouldn’t call that a worn disc. All brake discs will have wear, that’s how they work. But I’ve worked on lots of cars with high mileage over the years, so maybe I’m used to seeing a lot worse. I don’t see the point of renewing parts that are working fine, especially when they’re £300 for 2. They’re painted from factory, so if you did fit a new pair, you wouldn’t need to re-paint them. The paint in the video is VHT. The factory colour is silver, not black.
Definately doing this to my BMW
Perfect! Excellent video! Lovely car to 😍
Was machen sie da mit der routierenden Drahtbürsten ?
My Megane RS brembos had gone proper ginger after i cheaped out not getting coated discs. I used a matt black stove/bbq paint, silver stands out far too much for my liking.
Yeah, I just went for the OEM look, it does go quite well with the white to be honest! Love the Megane RS, went in a liquid yellow r26 once that was mapped to 275 bhp, still one of the fastest things on the road I have ever been in!
It's too late, but just to say: These rotors are toasted.
Rear discs for W204 - thickness 26mm, minimal 24mm, so more than 1 mm wear is not acceptable.
Interesting maths there 😄
@@CarThought My point was 1 mm per side. Sorry!
I have the same issue with my 2011 Jaguar XJ. I was all ready to do it but wasn't sure how it would play with the calipers etc, but Im glad to see this video to give me a bit of extra confidence. Thanks for taking the time. Great result.
Are you noticing squeaking with the brakes?
@@47k_dc no im not, except once in a while when wet and/or cold, they groan a little while i'm in the driveway, but as soon as they're dried off they're totally normal. I haven't dont the paint trick on the calipers yet though.
Mmm, nope.
not if you lack the skills
Looks great. Good as new. Good job 👏
Should have gone black
I like this look too
👌👏unbelievable
You never paint the mounting surface!
Would love a logical explanation to back up this statement..
@@CarThought because it is the same reason that you never paint or clear coat parts of a rim where the bolts go. You need to have metal on metal and not metal on paint. Even if you torque down your rim...the paint between the parts can cause the bond to loosen up.
How thick is your paint? The contact area between the back of the rim and the disc surface isn’t bonding anything mechanically or chemically. There are 5 bolts clamping the wheel onto the hub @130Nm. There isn’t any paint on the threads. The disc is sandwiched between the rim and hub.. it’s not a fastening. In the video you’re commenting on, you’ll notice the factory black wheel bolts are also powder coated all over.
@@CarThought you may want to ask around where good guys resurface and repaint rims. They will tell you the same...no paint where proper surface contact is needed.
Ah, it’s second hand information? If you could ask whoever has told you, that would save us some time 😄. I can see why they don’t paint the wheel mating surface due to heat cycles from the disc, and potentially cracking the paint from the back, thus ruining the visible wheel paint surface over time… But from a mechanical point of view it shouldn’t make any difference.
Awesome video, I’ll do on my c63 soon thanks man 👊🏻
That’s a beautiful silver overspray on the car
Thank you ❤️
good video looks great...im gonna go silver too for my slk....
I know they did black on the composite brake discs, but I don’t think these were fitted to the SLK? Silver is nice and OEM!
Great video!!
Great video
Perfecto. Super useful. Thank you.
How much heat-resistant paint needed for all 4 brake rotors?
Great work. Very clean look.
Another great video Dom!
Thanks bud! Glad you liked it!
Lol... Overspray.
incorrect blows away in the air
👍
Excellent, can you do mine?
£100 a corner? 😬
@@CarThought ok thanks. I would like to proceed please
Definitely go with black next time!
Nice work however not a fan of drilled discs as they as for the work it’s my experience that it will over time chip and flake.
Next time cover your paint work all in seeing is over spray and it will have got on your fenders…. Mind you not somthing a bit of petrol won’t remove
I painted my mx5 nc rosters a mid of purple and blue but them just replaced my stock discs with black mtec grooved discs
@megajohntopunishenslave427
Have you had a drink? Your comments make no sense.
@@gasgiant7122 They are typos and they make sense if you don't possess a single digit IQ.
Thanks. Why did garages always want to replace things in pairs. I have one brake disc at drivers side front needing replaced. Two garages have said. We only charge in pairs, so two brake discs required, plus two sets of pads???
Same deal with the rear. Rear passenger side needs a new disc. The garage said, 'We can only do it on pairs, so you need 4 new disks and 4 sets of pads. Seriously?? It's a Jaguar XE, R-Sport, 2016 model. Love from Scotland, ❤ X.
I would be more concerned about why your brake discs and pads are wearing more on one side than the other! But it's always best to replace both sides at the same time to ensure even braking performance, you really don't want one side braking less than the other, this not only can cause your car to pull to one side when you brake, but also puts uneven stress on your suspension components and tyres. Another big reason is - Brake pads and discs almost always come in a pack for each axle (i.e two wheels) which is 4 brake pads, and 2 discs. If you went to an auto parts shop and asked for brake pads for one wheel they'd look at you like you were crazy.