If you live where salt is I highly recommend it we did it to a punch of cars we used grease sure not epa approved but saves people alot of money and really it saves the government money not having to replace a few hundred cars a year.
I bought a series 3 V12 Etype four years ago for $9000. In pretty good shape I thought I could just put $10-$20,000 in it and just drive it around. I put $120,000 in it and now it’s the nicest $70,000 Etype in town. Or it would be if it weren’t leaking oil all over my garage. 😂
Doing burnouts in a old Jaguar is insanity. For the same money you could have a new Corvette with a warranty that would drive circles around this car and it would be safe if it crashed it. I'm baffled by the interest in these old vehicles just not worth the money. But I guess there is the grade of full Theory out there
@@wespotter6985 There was a time when I would have argued with you Wes… That was around $120,000 ago that I have spent in the last three years lol. We drive around 20,000 miles a year in our other 4 newer exotic cars all while this one has sat in the garage. Granted, when it is running there’s nothing cooler to roll through downtown in. It is definitely a classy ride. I’m just not the right person with the right mindset to keep driving an old car. Seriously, the real issue is there’s never any end to it. If I knew that I had spent my last dollar and I could get several years of enjoyment out of it that would be one thing. But when you put over $100,000 in a car and the next year you’re staring at another $25,000, somethings Gotta give
@@wespotter6985 Following your logic, doing burnouts at all is insanity. A Corvette and its warranty doesnt offer anywhere near the amount of pleasure an E type does. With cars being as sterile and insulated as they are nowadays, you wonder why people prefer to have fun with old classics?
I have replaced a few of these recently, HOWEVER IT MAY NOT NEED DOING. A common leak point is the 2 external cam feeds at the back of the cylinder head. Run your fingers over them and see if oil is pouring out. Check the sump has not been overfilled, then it will really blow by the seal. You cannot rely on the dipstick as they get changed. The E- type dipstick is unique to the E-type, check it has "E" stamped near the bottom. Drain the oil and refill with the correct amount of the thick stuff (20W50). If the breather gauze is blocked, the crankcase can be pressurised, undo the e 4 nuts at the front of the engine and check the gauze and breather pipe. If the seal has to be replace their are options, however the cheapest best option is probably a correctly fitted new rope seal. The other options require crank machining. On the face of it, your engine appears excellent, so I wouldn't mess with it. It is not a terrible job to drop the engine and box, however big chunks of the car have to come off. However with Wizards skills and equipment it is quite quick to do. It is all quite simple, however a bit unusual, as the gearbox will not come back far enough to be removed without the engine coming out and the whole assembly will not come out until the suspension springs are disconnected form the reaction plate below the gearbox. Battery off, fluids drained, Seats out, center console and radio console out, undo prop bolts at the gearbox and speedo drive, bonnet off (2 bolts and the balance bars), Remove the whole inlet manifold with a half inch spanner including the carbs attached pull t the side, alternator off,, pull the exhaust-manifolds back and drop the entire exhaust on one piece off the car, unbolt the clutch slave and push to the side. Undo steering ball joints. Split the top ball joints with the lower arm supported on a jack. Drop the lower arm to relieve the tension in the torsion bars. Undo the reaction plate bolts, remove the reaction plate. Support the engine and gearbox from below if you are going to lift the car off, from above if you are going to drop the engine and box onto the ground. The balance point is the rear engine loop. Undo the engine mounts, center gearbox support, rear gearbox support. Carefully lower it to the ground. I would remove the gearbox from the engine, invert the engine, remove. the sump and get to the seal. I would replace the clutch assembly. It would take me a day to take it apart and 2 days to put it all together, not many £parts are needed. They always leak a little bit from the rear main seal, even when you have spent £300 machining the crank and the same on the seal conversion kit.
Apparently it was restored to factory original condition. Most of the problems, the oil leaks in particular, would have been present on a factory fresh example.
drove a 75 xke convert to inspection in 1976 n went on hiway and wondered why everybody was drove so slow and I looked on speedo and i doing 88 mph oh yeah a V 12
@@rsprockets7846 My grandfather raced one on the Autobahn in his Mercedes Benz 450 SLC and the Jaguar failed after about 30 kilometers in a plume of steam when it overheated...
There was always some degree of seepage,, especially for owners who parked the car facing up on a steep slope. I replaced the seal on my XJ6 and it was reasonably OK. On Hoovies car, it is almost as if the seal isn't there ! Excessive crankcase pressure will also push oil out of this seal. I suspect the engine isn't all it is cracked-up to be.
@@frasermitchell9183 Exactly what I was thinking. Given the car was lovingly cared for, the seal is probably there in the sense that it hasn't completely disintegrated, but a decent amount of blow-by would be occurring for a leak this bad.
Hi Tyler commented on the last video. You can get an upgraded seal now days as opposed to the rope one. When we’ve done rear mains on e types or clutches it’s easier to take the whole engine out with the gearbox attached but you can do that in a few hours it’s relatively straightforward, put the car on a 4 post ramp, few ancillaries off that will clash the frames, centre console out, undo the prop, undo engine mounts and lift the car off the engine and box, means you can leave the bonnet on too. The hardest part is the reaction plate which is that thick bar across. The easiest way to do that is crack the upper wishbones off, take the track rods off and rock the lower arm up and down to realise the bolts that are under tension from the torsion bars. Then you take the gearbox off the engine once you’re out, probably do the clutch while it’s out so it’s done. You might get away with just doing the half of the rms in the sump so fingers crossed! It’ll be a doddle for wizard either way. Also the wood on the picture frame is more common than you’d think 😂
Almost if not all of these after market kits require you to cut the lip seal to fit it over the crank, how that is ever going to seal is beyond me. On my first engine rebuild I tried one of these and it leaked as bad or worse than the rope seal. I think that the rope seal properly installed is every bit as good as the after market lip seals that are currently being offered. Now, that being said I have heard rumors that Rob Beere Racing has come up with a seal that will stretch over the end of the crank but the crank still needs to be machined to remove the 'scroll' on the crank.
There's this upgrade kit for the rear main seal, that uses a modern style seal rather than the original rope one, and it's like 400 USD, but "Please note that the crankshaft must be machined at the sealing area before installation and this must be carried out by a qualified machine shop. "
@@phenomanII Ya that's what I thought until mine leaked again 4 months later after replacement. It's no easy task just to replace just to replace rear main seal. Dickinson idea sounds much better. These things leaked in the showroom new...
After years of watching this channel I'll never get over the fact that Hoovie has spent millions of dollars on cars and can't buy a $100 wireless lapel mike so we can hear wtf the wizard is saying.
Same here, It's beyond me why the Wizard continues to be "muted." David is a big part of many of Hoovies adventures and half the time you can barely hear him, thus missing out on some really great dialog.
I've been posting comments about this forever, and FINALLY see another person post something similar. I was beginning to think it was just my devices or my ears! I am constantly adjusting the volume on most of Tyler's videos. Then an ad plays and my eardrums get blown out. 😵💫
You can get a normal oil seal conversion kit for a few hundred quid, takes some fitting, but once its done, its done. Of course, without that oil leak, there`ll be no chassis rust prevention, so I`d recommend drilling a 0.3mm hole at the back of the sump, one on either side.. 😁
I worked for a year or so at an upholstery shop, and we did some work on an E-type, which had been rebuilt completely. The shop owner kept the car at his house about 2 miles away. I got to drive it there late one night on Venice Bl in LA., a wide street with no traffic, and I did what any young man would do and dropped the hammer.... the car was absolutely perfect! I won't ever forget the way it pulled.
Purchased a 69 e type 8 yrs ago with 17000 original miles and no leaks whatever after 12000 miles of driving pleasure. Boy to I feel the gods looking after me. Such a great car to drive. The straight 6 XK engine is a beast!
I've actually replaced those old rope seals (not on a Jag). You're making me feel really old. The styling on E types is absolutely timeless, beautiful cars!
An E Type should never be lifted by the “picture frame “ whether protected by wood or not. This will ruin the alignment of the entire front space frame, suspension, and hood to body junction. I lifted mine with wood blocks under the lower A Arms. One can drive it up on ramps too
@@Anatoli50 Sorry Garth, but that's not correct (Jag Lovers, E Types). If the engine frames are in good condition there is no problem with lifting it from the picture frame (with a wood block I might add). Just don't mistake the radiator support for the picture frame. JM2CW
Do what you want with your car @L. Lynn G. The picture frame was never engineered to support the weight of the car in the middle. I understand that this may be the most expedient method of lifting the front end as it only requires one trolley jack, but many cars have been extensively damaged doing so. On the other hand, the A arms are designed to take huge forces from the wheels encountering potholes, etc. These cars are now very valuable. Why would you risk serious and expensive damage?
Nice to hear you say "An E-Type Jag" NOT an XKE as Jay always says. Looks beautiful in BRG and they do go pretty hard. Looking forward to more episodes on this sweet classic.
@@SteveAnarchistMountainBC True, it was called (and has the emblems to prove it) the XK-E in the USA. I've always presumed it was to make the connection with it's forebears the XK-120/140/150.
Tyler, I owned and daily used a '70 model 4.2 E-type coupe' for 15 years from '78 to '93, oil leaks are common, but driving the Jag will always put that smile on your face. There's a guy on UA-cam from up in Canada, his name is Richard Michael Owen, him and his dad run a British car resto business called Owen automotive, Richard is an "ace" on Jaguars and all aspects of the marque', try a "reach out" to him, he'll know how to properly fix that rear main oil leak most effectively.
Barum engines over here in the UK do a few of the e-type engines and I think on the last one, they found a replacement seal that was a normal seal instead of a rope one. Might be worth hitting them up on youtube.
I’ve always loved the car wizards mannerisms and his amazing humble way of being, The car Wizard is a mechanical genius that is very modest and never acts like the typical auto mechanics that act like they know everything and are never wrong, the car wizard himself has never been like that and instead of him boasting how good of a mechanic he is…. his countless satisfied customers do all the praising for him. The car wizard is like the most gentle and respectful humble intellectual auto mechanic that i have ever seen. I wished more auto mechanics were like him. I wished I lived close to him so he could work on my cars, I myself like to perform most of the maintenance requirements for my vehicles but there’s some maintenance services or repairs that I would rather have a mechanic do and if the car wizard worked my cars then he would provide me with the greatest peace of mind. On another note, the Ninja is definitely another auto mechanic that seems to carry himself with great dignity and respect, I haven’t seen much of him but the few times I have he seemed to be a great humble smart mechanic.
Constant oil renewal program is alive and well, never need to do an oil change, it never has a chance to get old! It's a simple yet effective system that pommy cars still use to this day!
Tyler when you get it sorted please do a comparison video between the Jag and your Corvette. These were natural competitors in the showroom, on the street and racetracks worldwide.
I raced mine against many Corvettes. The Corvettes of the same era mostly had small block V8’s. 283, 327, and later 350’s. While bigger in displacement than the 240 ci/ 3.8 and 256ci/ 4.2 liter Jaguar motors, they weren’t usually faster. The Corvette could be shifted faster in a drag race, but even a 350 hp 350 ci 1969 Corvette wouldn’t go more than 135-40 mph. It was 3300 pounds vs the Jaguar 2850 pounds and better aero. The 3.8 Jaguar would go 115 mph in 3rd gear and 147 in top. It wasn’t until they put the big block in the Corvette in 1966 that they could top 150.
If you go back to your last video, to the point where you first drive it and you have the drone shot as you leave your driveway - you can see the oil puddle as you pull away.
A neighbor of mine looked at one of these when they were new. He noticed an oil spot under the car in the showroom right around the rear main seal. The salesman told him "They all do that, sir". Needless to say, he didn't buy it.
That piece of wood is to put the floor jack under without crushing the core support like so many people did. Other wise you can't lift both wheels at the same time. Edit I typed before you figured it out. The rear main seal is rope, if the car was sitting for a long time without being driven it's gone. There's a conversion kit for a lip seal but it's quite an undertaking to adapt it. There are some "custom" made panels on the side of the engine.
It only took Hoovie & Car Wizard 23 seconds to go from "What the hell's that?" to figuring out what the wood block was for, so I guess you leapt into the comments after, what, 5-10 seconds? :)
If I had to work on and maintain an E-Type I’d likely smoke some weed when I got home at the end of the day just to be able to laugh off the aggravation.
He will be payed well for cleaning Hoovie's Diva-stains off his shopfloor I reckon. Plus: You gotta put out a sign "no vintage English vehicles!" should You have a real problem with a wee bit of oil on the floor - no matter which brand, they all had "fresh-oil lubrication" for parking spots and subframes until BMW and the Piëch family started buying out anything not able to flee out of sight before You counted to "...three!".
From memory I think the rear main seal is actually made of rope on these old Jaguars, my grandma had one from new until the late 80's, my dad taught me to drive in it when I was 15, Rj in Oz
Sneaky Pete, love it! Haven't heard a mechanic use one or the term in ages. A lot of the younger mechanics never even heard of them. When I explain it I tell people they are like they work old Chinese Finger Traps and they still have no clue. I have changed so many rear seals using them. Very old school tool and a life saver and time.
@@LLynnG I thought the same thing when I first saw one of my instructors use one, but in a little less than an hour he had the seal in and was tightening up the bolts on the oil pan. Of course he had done 100s of them and it was on a late 60s Mustang with a small block 289 I think. I have used them so many times maybe close to 100 times all on pre mid 70s cars some of the newer cars might be different and a lot harder. I hope he does it and records it. I am sure people will be amazed at how easy it can be.
Issues like that are why an old friend of mine ended up doing a complete restoration of his E-Type. It started with the need to work on the transmission. To get to it you have to pull the rear end. And then the “while we’re here” started, and didn’t stop until it was completely stripped down to the frame. Good news is that after a multi year restoration he took it to Pebble Beach.
This brings back a lot of memories. In 1975 I owned a 1966 E-Type Coupe. The rear main seal failed just as I was leaving Chicago for San Francisco. It took 12 quarts of oil to make the trip. Every time I came to a stop, clouds of oil came up around the car from the drips on the exhaust. Beautiful cars, but they can be costly to run.
After a day of being bummed chasing oil and transmission leaks in my 1967 RS/SS Camaro convertible, I watch this video and see I'm not alone..I love old cars.
My father past in Jan of this year but one of his favorite topics to talk about was what he saw on your channel and I have watched allot of your videos but haven’t subscribed until now thanks for bringing my father enjoyment all the way to the end Hoovie!
I have done e few of those. its a big job.. bonnet off, front suspension must be dissasembled to remove torsion bars, and engine with transmission have to be removed from the car. Engine can be lifted up, but it easier to leave the engine on a listing table and lift the car of the drivetrain. Would recommend to fit a 5-speed while you are doing that job
Nooooooo......this is a car that needs its originality and kept for one's lifetime!!!!!! Drop the pan...remove rear main cap......thread two piece seal coated with rtv grey.....reverse and done.
When I take the engines out of these I leave the front suspension in and just tilt the engine and box on the way out with a crane, also have to put a jack to hold the back of the box while on the way out as well, still a big job
The Car Wizards has the coolest walk on UA-cam! I'd love to see a continuous loop video of him just waddling around on his stubby little legs with Pantera's WALK as the background music!
6:23 The camera lens really brings out Hoovies nose. :~D Having been born and raised in Kansas, seeing the outdoor shots makes me really miss autumn in Kansas.
Sent the Jag to us we can sort it :) I don't think you can cram that oil seal in-situ, but maybe car wizard can work his magic. I would do a compression check seems like possibly combustion pressure is entering the crankcase? I have a few videos up putting these engines together.
I know I still have a Sneaky Pete in my tool box. I use to use it on early 2.3L Ford engines. They do actually perform quite well from what I remember. It hasn't seen any action since 1990 ? Kinda like myself.
If you are going to pull it apart, convert the rear seal from a rope seal. Check "Rear Crank Seal Conversion ". Done a lot with old cars of different types and especially the Jaguar 6 cylinder engine.
If you want to do the oil seal properly, you have to pull the engine, that means bonnet off, seats out, centre console out....like someone mentioned before its better to leave the engine on a rolling pallet and lift the whole car up, you have to remove the carbs and inlet manifold when you do it that way, but its still better than mentioned in the workshop manual....
Skimmed through a number of comments (all discussing the oil leak). Not going to read all 1700+ comments to see if someone actually mentioned this. The reason for the "note" stating that the car was negative earth/ground was to warn any mechaninc working on the car that the electrical system has been modified. They came from the factory as a positive ground vehicle. A buddy of mine bought a beat up early XKE in the mid 70's when he was in the Air Force. The radio didn't work and he was going to replace it, until he found out that the car was positive ground (and the cost of a replacement radio). Those things sound so sweet who needs a damn radio anyway.
@@G-Mastah-Fash I highly doubt he ultimately cares unless it's valuable as is, or can be easily brought back up to near concourse standard to make it valuable. Since this apparently doesn't fall into either of those categories he's gonna thrash it while the Weeezard band-aids it, and when the content's been milked out of it and he's bored of driving it he's gonna make it someone else's problem. He's not a steward, and he's not a preservation collector - he's a youtuber first and foremost.
And now with the use of low tension piston rings in modern engines to reduce friction and thus improve fuel economy, your advice applies to brand new cars too., Not just used ones.
I would check the oil feed to the rear of the cam boxes, The one-use crush copper washers on the banjo joint can be refitted by mistake and then they leak.
Suggestion: have the Wizard take a good look at the differential pinion and output shaft seals while he is working on your E-type. I had this same IRS rear end with inboard brakes on an early 70's Jag XJ sedan. The output shaft seals were leaking diff fluid all over the brakes making them squeal when applied. British oil seals of that period did not last very long before leaking. Hopefully, yours have been replaced at least once already.
The oil leaks will only cost at most a couple of grand to fix and I really think ; THIS IS THE BEST CAR Hoovie has had so far. And I'm very pleased that he loves the E-type so much! (says a Brit from the automotive midlands; OK, I'm from Solihull, home of Land Rover, not Coventry, home of Jaaaag!) ( My fave car ; Morris Minor!, best car ever made!) Get a Moggie, Hoovie, You'll LOVE it!
pretty much a full engine strip to attend to the rear main oil seal. built dozens of these engines. as said in other comments later lip seal conversion is available but requires machining of the crank and the seal is split to fit.
Hoovie, as the owner of a number of Jaguars including an E Type (1964), THANK YOU for pronouncing The name correctly. The piece of wood on the front Picture Frame is for jacking the car up without damaging the frame. Before you even got under the car I knew where the oil was leaking from. Rear main is an easy job remove the reaction plate then remove engine and gearbox as one lump and if wanted you can upgrade to a modified rear man seal, don't forget to replace the clutch at the same time. Plenty of You Tube videos to show today's mechanic how to work on real cars. While you use the 'pig mats' you clutch is still being covered in oil and WILL fail on you.
Most people don't know that, but the oil leak on old Jags is actually by design. That way if you drive off in the morning, you can instantly tell if there's still oil in it without even having to lift the bonnet.
Just drive it until the clutch starts slipping... And with a leak like that it will. We used to have those pads at work white ones and grey. They are flammable! Even without being soaked with oil.
With the rear main seal being that old, it is going to disintegrate when trying to use the Sneaky Peat. In the long run, it may be just as easy to pull the engine and do a complete reseal.
Not only that, to correctly install the rope seal it should be sized with the correct tool otherwise it will be too loose and leak or too tight and burn up and leak. Short cuts are not the way to go on this.... YMMV
When I got my 95' Buick Roadmaster estate wagon I got a complete set of Factory service manuals and the TSBs' and the revision manual that goes to this body series.(5 books in all.) Immensely helpful in my maintenance of my wagon.
Large oil leaks are just an anti-rust feature. It will also guarantee that the oil is always fresh since you are adding new oil so often. I used to have a truck that would leak about a quart a month so I only had to change the oil & filter twice a year since it was getting fresh oil every month.
Diaper pad seems like a fair idea for my super-slow transmission fluid leak. A few drops per week spreads terribly on the epoxy floor of my parking garage, but isn't worth getting fixed. It leaks so slowly, I haven't ever had to top it up over a dozen years.
I had an old Pontiac that was parked for several years and the rope seal leaked for the first few months (not as bad as that Jag) before it slowed down drastically (no puddles) and went another 100k miles. I would ensure that is the culprit first.
Normally a leaking rear main seal drips engine oil down the front side of the flywheel which slings it around the inside of the bellhousing. Once on the bellhousing it drains toward the inspection cover / hole. You can drive them quite a while before you get enough contamination on the clutch disc causing slippage. Now a leaking front manual transmission seal is another story. They wipe out a clutch pretty quick 😏.
We our selves never owned a Jaguar, but owned a 1974 Triumph TR-6 in the 1980's for my brother to use while in college. Dad enjoyed it to play tennis with a friend as well. We eventually sold it to a German company in Los Angles that buys used European old cars like this and finds buyers in Europe to sell them to and ship them over there, so the car is over there in someone's collection. Regarding E-Types, my mom told me that there was a neighbor across the that was constative Cadillac type person that buys Cadillacs but one day while she working the garden in 1960's when these E-Types were new, she saw him come home in a brand new E-Type and was amazed. The Triumph we had, had its issues no doubt and changing the oil was different then other cars. My brother and our cousin from Germany decided to do an oil change on it one summer and didn't do something correctly with the filter as it wasn't a typical spin on filter and ended up with 6 quarts of oil all over the garage. What a mess it was to clean up.
the rear rope type seal is not the issue, it is readily available from all the classic Jaguar parts suppliers, and through Jaguar heritage must be available in any Jaguar dealership. What is costly is the time to do the replacement. There is a special tool to bed the rope seal in its groove. The chinese fingers are not a great thing. I have used them on early Rover V8 crankshaft rope seals and they are not a guarantee of the end of the leaks. Split oil seal like Rover used on their straight six is a good solution. There is a company that makes split oil seals upon order for any ID/OD you can wish
I had a 64 Etype and did the rear main oil seal myself, without removing the trans. The engine must be jacked up a few inches because there are bolts underneath the crossmember that hold up the aluminum 10 qt oil pan. The job took me about 10 hours. Not long after, I took off the front cover and replaced the timing chain slipper that tensions the timing chain. A truly bad design as the 4.2 is an interference engine and if that slipper wasn't replaced during the rebuild it can pop out and there goes the engine. You are lucky in that the back bottom of the monocoque doesn't look rusty. It's a real rust area that is very difficult to satisfactorily repair if rusted out.
12:25 - Transmission is still coming out with the Sneaky Pete - it's a tool that makes it so you don't have to pull the Crankshaft out of the Block, but the Flywheel still needs to come off, and that means the Gearbox and Clutch first. There should be a replacement rubber seal available to replace the rope seal, there are for most popular engines from the period that had rope seals. Get rid of that diaper thing before the exhaust sets it on fire.
I am shocked oil soaked fabric +exhaust = a fire waiting to happen. Such a wonderful car. Have you researched it does anyone make a mod kit so you fit a modern conventional rear main oil seal?
Leaking oil is a feature of Jags. If you find no oil on the floor then that is the warning that you need to top it up. Hence the warning lights are never hooked up :)
Exactly,, when my old triumph bonnieville quit leaking , i knew the oil level was too low ! Also the headlight switch had 3 positions off ,, flicker and dim .
back in the day the clutch would wear out at about 25k, to replace the clutch the hood came off the front suspension was removed and the engine and tranny were then removed. Two men who knew what thew were doing took two fully days at a minimum and the price would approach 1/2 of the original price of the car (in 69-70 car price out the door was about $6010). You could pick up low mileage E types cheap.
@@STSmithable well that’s certainly debatable, however what’s not debatable is that there are many options in between which involve driving the car with respect for its age and purpose. People race these at the likes of the Goodwood Revival yet you never see their drivers doing burnouts or donuts, for good reason.
@@christianbuczko1481 not sure I see it. One certainty is that he has it parked on his rug in his garage for some time with no leaking during his intro so I stand by my point.
Saddle Brown interior with Brunswick Green exterior is absolutely Stunning & Quaint Essentially British! Great Job picking out this Exquisite car Tyler!!!
2 grand is so much less than I was expecting the job to cost. Not bad at all. Granted that's an estimate and who knows what else the Wizard will find that needs to be addressed during the repair process.
I own one of these (1968) that doesn't leave puddles. Not checking the oil is not too bright. But they hold 8.5 litres. So just over 4 litres left in it Hoovie. Fix it properly, pull the engine/trans, replace the seal and fit a new clutch. May as well do it properly.
Likely the rear main seal is a hand marlinspiked braided rope graphite gasket. Very common on old British engines- including the Rover 3.5l (ex Buick 215 cu in) you can upgrade with a modern XK big end seal or do it the right way- get a modern gasket kit. XK4.2 dual overhead cam, hemi head used in tonnes of UK military vehicles too
That's not an oil leak. That's a self lubricating anti-corrosion system used in many Jaguars.
Also essential to greasing the wheels of commerce in the UK!
If you live where salt is I highly recommend it we did it to a punch of cars we used grease sure not epa approved but saves people alot of money and really it saves the government money not having to replace a few hundred cars a year.
Pass through lubrication, ensures that there's no old oil in the engine.
I had a trailblazer with that option
All British sports cars of that era have this excellent anti rust feature 😊
I bought a series 3 V12 Etype four years ago for $9000. In pretty good shape I thought I could just put $10-$20,000 in it and just drive it around. I put $120,000 in it and now it’s the nicest $70,000 Etype in town. Or it would be if it weren’t leaking oil all over my garage. 😂
Hey if we get another pandemic you might actually get your money back 😄
Beautiful cars and always wanted one but I’ve resisted the temptation. You’ve reassured me that I’ve made the right call.
Doing burnouts in a old Jaguar is insanity. For the same money you could have a new Corvette with a warranty that would drive circles around this car and it would be safe if it crashed it. I'm baffled by the interest in these old vehicles just not worth the money. But I guess there is the grade of full Theory out there
@@wespotter6985 There was a time when I would have argued with you Wes… That was around $120,000 ago that I have spent in the last three years lol. We drive around 20,000 miles a year in our other 4 newer exotic cars all while this one has sat in the garage. Granted, when it is running there’s nothing cooler to roll through downtown in. It is definitely a classy ride. I’m just not the right person with the right mindset to keep driving an old car. Seriously, the real issue is there’s never any end to it. If I knew that I had spent my last dollar and I could get several years of enjoyment out of it that would be one thing. But when you put over $100,000 in a car and the next year you’re staring at another $25,000, somethings Gotta give
@@wespotter6985 Following your logic, doing burnouts at all is insanity. A Corvette and its warranty doesnt offer anywhere near the amount of pleasure an E type does. With cars being as sterile and insulated as they are nowadays, you wonder why people prefer to have fun with old classics?
Asking if an old Jag is leaking is like asking if England has a monarch. Yeah, dude. That's what they do.
If it's not leaking oil there's no oil in it
Relatively speaking its dusty, apart from that rear main obviously.😂
England has no monarch it has a diaperman
All old british cars
*"This Kitty marked its spot!" Pa-pow, and daayum Weezard has come a long way since the teleprompter days.*
I have replaced a few of these recently, HOWEVER IT MAY NOT NEED DOING.
A common leak point is the 2 external cam feeds at the back of the cylinder head. Run your fingers over them and see if oil is pouring out.
Check the sump has not been overfilled, then it will really blow by the seal. You cannot rely on the dipstick as they get changed. The E- type dipstick is unique to the E-type, check it has "E" stamped near the bottom. Drain the oil and refill with the correct amount of the thick stuff (20W50).
If the breather gauze is blocked, the crankcase can be pressurised, undo the e 4 nuts at the front of the engine and check the gauze and breather pipe.
If the seal has to be replace their are options, however the cheapest best option is probably a correctly fitted new rope seal. The other options require crank machining. On the face of it, your engine appears excellent, so I wouldn't mess with it.
It is not a terrible job to drop the engine and box, however big chunks of the car have to come off. However with Wizards skills and equipment it is quite quick to do. It is all quite simple, however a bit unusual, as the gearbox will not come back far enough to be removed without the engine coming out and the whole assembly will not come out until the suspension springs are disconnected form the reaction plate below the gearbox.
Battery off, fluids drained, Seats out, center console and radio console out, undo prop bolts at the gearbox and speedo drive, bonnet off (2 bolts and the balance bars), Remove the whole inlet manifold with a half inch spanner including the carbs attached pull t the side, alternator off,, pull the exhaust-manifolds back and drop the entire exhaust on one piece off the car, unbolt the clutch slave and push to the side.
Undo steering ball joints. Split the top ball joints with the lower arm supported on a jack. Drop the lower arm to relieve the tension in the torsion bars. Undo the reaction plate bolts, remove the reaction plate.
Support the engine and gearbox from below if you are going to lift the car off, from above if you are going to drop the engine and box onto the ground. The balance point is the rear engine loop. Undo the engine mounts, center gearbox support, rear gearbox support.
Carefully lower it to the ground.
I would remove the gearbox from the engine, invert the engine, remove. the sump and get to the seal. I would replace the clutch assembly.
It would take me a day to take it apart and 2 days to put it all together, not many £parts are needed.
They always leak a little bit from the rear main seal, even when you have spent £300 machining the crank and the same on the seal conversion kit.
Bless you
Good info, I hope he see's this
I hope Hoovie reads this comment before shelling out $$$!
Love when people know their craft and can put it into words. Good on you sir.
Please read this hoovie
Apparently it was restored to factory original condition.
Most of the problems, the oil leaks in particular, would have been present on a factory fresh example.
drove a 75 xke convert to inspection in 1976 n went on hiway and wondered why everybody was drove so slow and I looked on speedo and i doing 88 mph oh yeah a V 12
@@rsprockets7846 My grandfather raced one on the Autobahn in his Mercedes Benz 450 SLC and the Jaguar failed after about 30 kilometers in a plume of steam when it overheated...
yep - if a Jaguar isn't leaking oil then it's run out!
There was always some degree of seepage,, especially for owners who parked the car facing up on a steep slope. I replaced the seal on my XJ6 and it was reasonably OK. On Hoovies car, it is almost as if the seal isn't there ! Excessive crankcase pressure will also push oil out of this seal. I suspect the engine isn't all it is cracked-up to be.
@@frasermitchell9183 Exactly what I was thinking. Given the car was lovingly cared for, the seal is probably there in the sense that it hasn't completely disintegrated, but a decent amount of blow-by would be occurring for a leak this bad.
Hi Tyler commented on the last video. You can get an upgraded seal now days as opposed to the rope one. When we’ve done rear mains on e types or clutches it’s easier to take the whole engine out with the gearbox attached but you can do that in a few hours it’s relatively straightforward, put the car on a 4 post ramp, few ancillaries off that will clash the frames, centre console out, undo the prop, undo engine mounts and lift the car off the engine and box, means you can leave the bonnet on too. The hardest part is the reaction plate which is that thick bar across. The easiest way to do that is crack the upper wishbones off, take the track rods off and rock the lower arm up and down to realise the bolts that are under tension from the torsion bars. Then you take the gearbox off the engine once you’re out, probably do the clutch while it’s out so it’s done. You might get away with just doing the half of the rms in the sump so fingers crossed! It’ll be a doddle for wizard either way. Also the wood on the picture frame is more common than you’d think 😂
Almost if not all of these after market kits require you to cut the lip seal to fit it over the crank, how that is ever going to seal is beyond me. On my first engine rebuild I tried one of these and it leaked as bad or worse than the rope seal. I think that the rope seal properly installed is every bit as good as the after market lip seals that are currently being offered. Now, that being said I have heard rumors that Rob Beere Racing has come up with a seal that will stretch over the end of the crank but the crank still needs to be machined to remove the 'scroll' on the crank.
There's this upgrade kit for the rear main seal, that uses a modern style seal rather than the original rope one, and it's like 400 USD, but "Please note that the crankshaft must be machined at the sealing area before installation and this must be carried out by a qualified machine shop. "
Machining the crankshaft seems like a pretty significant reason not to go with that kit, at least while the main bearings don't need to be replaced.
@@phenomanII Ya that's what I thought until mine leaked again 4 months later after replacement. It's no easy task just to replace just to replace rear main seal. Dickinson idea sounds much better. These things leaked in the showroom new...
Yep they're pretty tight in Kansas.
I work in a machine shop in Wichita, I wonder if we could do it haha
Nice
Wizard is probably one of the kindest, nicest people I've seen on any UA-cam video in many, many years.
His vibe and energy are amazing.
After years of watching this channel I'll never get over the fact that Hoovie has spent millions of dollars on cars and can't buy a $100 wireless lapel mike so we can hear wtf the wizard is saying.
Definitely noticeable on this video... kept turning the volume up to hear one and the volume down to listen to the other.
Same here, It's beyond me why the Wizard continues to be "muted." David is a big part of many of Hoovies adventures and half the time you can barely hear him, thus missing out on some really great dialog.
I've been posting comments about this forever, and FINALLY see another person post something similar. I was beginning to think it was just my devices or my ears! I am constantly adjusting the volume on most of Tyler's videos. Then an ad plays and my eardrums get blown out. 😵💫
True that have to use portable speaker
I felt like I was getting old 🤣Hoovie get a wireless mic for the wizard please 🙏
You can get a normal oil seal conversion kit for a few hundred quid, takes some fitting, but once its done, its done. Of course, without that oil leak, there`ll be no chassis rust prevention, so I`d recommend drilling a 0.3mm hole at the back of the sump, one on either side.. 😁
I worked for a year or so at an upholstery shop, and we did some work on an E-type, which had been rebuilt completely. The shop owner kept the car at his house about 2 miles away. I got to drive it there late one night on Venice Bl in LA., a wide street with no traffic, and I did what any young man would do and dropped the hammer.... the car was absolutely perfect! I won't ever forget the way it pulled.
Purchased a 69 e type 8 yrs ago with 17000 original miles and no leaks whatever after 12000 miles of driving pleasure. Boy to I feel the gods looking after me. Such a great car to drive. The straight 6 XK engine is a beast!
I can see it now, Tyler pulls into the full service gas station and tells the attendant, "Fill it up with oil, and check the gas!"
I've actually replaced those old rope seals (not on a Jag). You're making me feel really old. The styling on E types is absolutely timeless, beautiful cars!
The piece of wood at the front of the car is used with a trolley jack, common mod to do to prevent the 'picture frame' from crumpling
The actual dimensions of the piece of wood can be found in the shop manual, I think.
That's exactly what he said lol
An E Type should never be lifted by the “picture frame “ whether protected by wood or not. This will ruin the alignment of the entire front space frame, suspension, and hood to body junction. I lifted mine with wood blocks under the lower A Arms. One can drive it up on ramps too
@@Anatoli50 Sorry Garth, but that's not correct (Jag Lovers, E Types). If the engine frames are in good condition there is no problem with lifting it from the picture frame (with a wood block I might add). Just don't mistake the radiator support for the picture frame. JM2CW
Do what you want with your car @L. Lynn G. The picture frame was never engineered to support the weight of the car in the middle. I understand that this may be the most expedient method of lifting the front end as it only requires one trolley jack, but many cars have been extensively damaged doing so. On the other hand, the A arms are designed to take huge forces from the wheels encountering potholes, etc. These cars are now very valuable. Why would you risk serious and expensive damage?
Nice to hear you say "An E-Type Jag" NOT an XKE as Jay always says.
Looks beautiful in BRG and they do go pretty hard.
Looking forward to more episodes on this sweet classic.
XKE in the USA, E Type rest of the world.
God bless America.
@@SteveAnarchistMountainBC True, it was called (and has the emblems to prove it) the XK-E in the USA. I've always presumed it was to make the connection with it's forebears the XK-120/140/150.
😂The reason Jaguar didn’t make TV’s, is they couldn’t figure out how to make it leak oil!😅
but they did get it to smoke and catch fire as they had Lucas do the electronics.
As a proud Englishman, from very close to where these Jags were manufactured, your comment made me literally laugh out loud 😂
Tyler, I owned and daily used a '70 model 4.2 E-type coupe' for 15 years from '78 to '93, oil leaks are common, but driving the Jag will always put that smile on your face. There's a guy on UA-cam from up in Canada, his name is Richard Michael Owen, him and his dad run a British car resto business called Owen automotive, Richard is an "ace" on Jaguars and all aspects of the marque', try a "reach out" to him, he'll know how to properly fix that rear main oil leak most effectively.
His dad is a genius on these Jags.
Barum engines over here in the UK do a few of the e-type engines and I think on the last one, they found a replacement seal that was a normal seal instead of a rope one. Might be worth hitting them up on youtube.
They also have the best UA-cam channel when it comes to terrible customer stories.
@@twatmunro yeah no kidding. They don't hold back lol
Yes, there are modern replacements for those old rope type seals.
I’ve always loved the car wizards mannerisms and his amazing humble way of being, The car Wizard is a mechanical genius that is very modest and never acts like the typical auto mechanics that act like they know everything and are never wrong, the car wizard himself has never been like that and instead of him boasting how good of a mechanic he is…. his countless satisfied customers do all the praising for him. The car wizard is like the most gentle and respectful humble intellectual auto mechanic that i have ever seen. I wished more auto mechanics were like him. I wished I lived close to him so he could work on my cars, I myself like to perform most of the maintenance requirements for my vehicles but there’s some maintenance services or repairs that I would rather have a mechanic do and if the car wizard worked my cars then he would provide me with the greatest peace of mind. On another note, the Ninja is definitely another auto mechanic that seems to carry himself with great dignity and respect, I haven’t seen much of him but the few times I have he seemed to be a great humble smart mechanic.
Simple advice for Hoovie:
a) Fix everything
2) keep it forever
That won’t support a UA-cam channel, tho’
@@shiftfocus1 Yeah, that's why he's going to sell it to buy three Fieros in 2023.
Constant oil renewal program is alive and well, never need to do an oil change, it never has a chance to get old! It's a simple yet effective system that pommy cars still use to this day!
Tyler when you get it sorted please do a comparison video between the Jag and your Corvette. These were natural competitors in the showroom, on the street and racetracks worldwide.
An E-type is never "sorted". It's just less broken.
“The E-Type and a Corvette were natural competitors” that’s hilarious!!🤣😂🤣
@@helipeek2736 Must be Jan and Dean's "Dead Man Curve"
I raced mine against many Corvettes. The Corvettes of the same era mostly had small block V8’s. 283, 327, and later 350’s. While bigger in displacement than the 240 ci/ 3.8 and 256ci/ 4.2 liter Jaguar motors, they weren’t usually faster. The Corvette could be shifted faster in a drag race, but even a 350 hp 350 ci 1969 Corvette wouldn’t go more than 135-40 mph. It was 3300 pounds vs the Jaguar 2850 pounds and better aero. The 3.8 Jaguar would go 115 mph in 3rd gear and 147 in top. It wasn’t until they put the big block in the Corvette in 1966 that they could top 150.
@@timothykeith1367 "OOOOH OOOOH eeeeee OOOooo"
If you go back to your last video, to the point where you first drive it and you have the drone shot as you leave your driveway - you can see the oil puddle as you pull away.
A neighbor of mine looked at one of these when they were new. He noticed an oil spot under the car in the showroom right around the rear main seal. The salesman told him "They all do that, sir". Needless to say, he didn't buy it.
Well... he wasn't lying.
That piece of wood is to put the floor jack under without crushing the core support like so many people did. Other wise you can't lift both wheels at the same time. Edit I typed before you figured it out. The rear main seal is rope, if the car was sitting for a long time without being driven it's gone. There's a conversion kit for a lip seal but it's quite an undertaking to adapt it. There are some "custom" made panels on the side of the engine.
It only took Hoovie & Car Wizard 23 seconds to go from "What the hell's that?" to figuring out what the wood block was for, so I guess you leapt into the comments after, what, 5-10 seconds? :)
@@dunebasher1971 yes that's why I put the edit. I could have deleted the comment too.
I would be more shocked if this Jag would not be leaking. Watch the wheeler dealers episode on the E-Type jag. Edd did a lot of useful stuff
Ed China, the OG car wizzard
Edd China is an absolute beast of a mechanic
Edd and The Wizard need to get together for a video.
@@romulus_ nah, they wouldn't like each other.
They are both honest mechanics - they would like each other
This is why I love the Wizard… Went the safe direction with the lift. 👍🏽
Most people flip out when they see oil spots on their concrete… Car Wizards reaction was perfect! Car Wizard: Wow, This kitty marks it’s spot ! 😂
Mr.BrightSide He's also thinking Cha Ching Cha Ching.
The wizard enjoys his cannabis products I'm thinking
If I had to work on and maintain an E-Type I’d likely smoke some weed when I got home at the end of the day just to be able to laugh off the aggravation.
He will be payed well for cleaning Hoovie's Diva-stains off his shopfloor I reckon. Plus: You gotta put out a sign "no vintage English vehicles!" should You have a real problem with a wee bit of oil on the floor - no matter which brand, they all had "fresh-oil lubrication" for parking spots and subframes until BMW and the Piëch family started buying out anything not able to flee out of sight before You counted to "...three!".
At 10:25 the way the left rear tire is just barely even on the lift is almost as sketchy as the 2 post lift would have been
From memory I think the rear main seal is actually made of rope on these old Jaguars, my grandma had one from new until the late 80's, my dad taught me to drive in it when I was 15, Rj in Oz
If my memory from 10 minutes ago, Yeah that’s what they said in the video. A rope seal. Good catch. 😂
@@brandonbman5921 Just love people who make comments before watching the entire video.
@@deadon4847 and? his story was still good
Early Series 1 needed / had a Perfect Circle piston ring retrofit to cure excessive oil use.
Sneaky Pete, love it! Haven't heard a mechanic use one or the term in ages. A lot of the younger mechanics never even heard of them. When I explain it I tell people they are like they work old Chinese Finger Traps and they still have no clue. I have changed so many rear seals using them. Very old school tool and a life saver and time.
funny, I knew exactly what he meant when he said it lol (I'm 61)
Lost count how many ford rear main rope seals I've changed... Chevy is trying to catch up to that number with the LS motor..
@@muskokamike127 I'm 63 when I was going to school for auto mechanics that was one of the things they showed us.
Sure hope he video's it when he uses the 'Sneaky Pete', I'm skeptical that it will work
@@LLynnG I thought the same thing when I first saw one of my instructors use one, but in a little less than an hour he had the seal in and was tightening up the bolts on the oil pan. Of course he had done 100s of them and it was on a late 60s Mustang with a small block 289 I think. I have used them so many times maybe close to 100 times all on pre mid 70s cars some of the newer cars might be different and a lot harder. I hope he does it and records it. I am sure people will be amazed at how easy it can be.
Issues like that are why an old friend of mine ended up doing a complete restoration of his E-Type. It started with the need to work on the transmission. To get to it you have to pull the rear end. And then the “while we’re here” started, and didn’t stop until it was completely stripped down to the frame. Good news is that after a multi year restoration he took it to Pebble Beach.
Regarding the wood - I do the same on my old Sprite to protect it from the jack, but it's not permanently attached!
Might be that they just forgot to remove it once they were finished with whatever they were doing?
This brings back a lot of memories. In 1975 I owned a 1966 E-Type Coupe. The rear main seal failed just as I was leaving Chicago for San Francisco. It took 12 quarts of oil to make the trip. Every time I came to a stop, clouds of oil came up around the car from the drips on the exhaust. Beautiful cars, but they can be costly to run.
12 quarts for a cross country trip is not bad. lol, I'm pretty impressed actually.
After a day of being bummed chasing oil and transmission leaks in my 1967 RS/SS Camaro convertible, I watch this video and see I'm not alone..I love old cars.
Oil leaks in 70's Jaguars were preset at the factory.
You have to get you some of those fancy aluminum magnets.
My father past in Jan of this year but one of his favorite topics to talk about was what he saw on your channel and I have watched allot of your videos but haven’t subscribed until now thanks for bringing my father enjoyment all the way to the end Hoovie!
I have done e few of those. its a big job.. bonnet off, front suspension must be dissasembled to remove torsion bars, and engine with transmission have to be removed from the car. Engine can be lifted up, but it easier to leave the engine on a listing table and lift the car of the drivetrain. Would recommend to fit a 5-speed while you are doing that job
Nooooooo......this is a car that needs its originality and kept for one's lifetime!!!!!! Drop the pan...remove rear main cap......thread two piece seal coated with rtv grey.....reverse and done.
When I take the engines out of these I leave the front suspension in and just tilt the engine and box on the way out with a crane, also have to put a jack to hold the back of the box while on the way out as well, still a big job
That car may be the most beautiful piece of rolling art ever crafted. I would stop every 10 miles to top off the oil. Shes a keeper, Hoovie.
He'll ruin her sooner than later with his Corvette-driving style.
The Car Wizards has the coolest walk on UA-cam! I'd love to see a continuous loop video of him just waddling around on his stubby little legs with Pantera's WALK as the background music!
😆
6:23 The camera lens really brings out Hoovies nose. :~D Having been born and raised in Kansas, seeing the outdoor shots makes me really miss autumn in Kansas.
Feeling for the motorcyclist following you in the opening road scene. Hope he made it OK round the next curve 😉
Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing.
Cant beat an oil slick highside into oncoming traffic thanks Hoovie for the $500k medical bills too
@@Phuc_Yhou bye bye countach. 😢
Bye bye motorcycle 🙂
Taking off in a hurry and watching the wind blowing through the Car wizards hair... beard hair. Timeless.
Can't beat an E type with a documented history. That's the cream on an epic car!
13:13 Wizard: "Yeah...I also wanna know why....is this in case the price got too high?" Pure gold! 😂🤣😊👍
Sent the Jag to us we can sort it :) I don't think you can cram that oil seal in-situ, but maybe car wizard can work his magic. I would do a compression check seems like possibly combustion pressure is entering the crankcase? I have a few videos up putting these engines together.
Yours was the quickest subscription I have ever enjoyed. Guys, go there.
I know I still have a Sneaky Pete in my tool box. I use to use it on early 2.3L Ford engines. They do actually perform quite well from what I remember. It hasn't seen any action since 1990 ? Kinda like myself.
Gotta give The Wizard credit, "Kitty marks it spot." is a classic line. Beautiful car.
If you are going to pull it apart, convert the rear seal from a rope seal. Check "Rear Crank Seal Conversion ". Done a lot with old cars of different types and especially the Jaguar 6 cylinder engine.
If you want to do the oil seal properly, you have to pull the engine, that means bonnet off, seats out, centre console out....like someone mentioned before its better to leave the engine on a rolling pallet and lift the whole car up, you have to remove the carbs and inlet manifold when you do it that way, but its still better than mentioned in the workshop manual....
Skimmed through a number of comments (all discussing the oil leak). Not going to read all 1700+ comments to see if someone actually mentioned this.
The reason for the "note" stating that the car was negative earth/ground was to warn any mechaninc working on the car that the electrical system has been modified. They came from the factory as a positive ground vehicle. A buddy of mine bought a beat up early XKE in the mid 70's when he was in the Air Force. The radio didn't work and he was going to replace it, until he found out that the car was positive ground (and the cost of a replacement radio). Those things sound so sweet who needs a damn radio anyway.
Never drive a used car without constantly checking the oil. Get to know your vehicles and find the surprises before they find you
You forget not checking a car before driving it is this channel's brand
@@jd_99 that's fine if your not planning on purchasing. 😂 Lol. Drive it like it's stolen and drop it like it's hawt
@@jd_99 Yeah but with this kind of car you need to check. You wouldn't wanna ruin a piece of history would you?
@@G-Mastah-Fash I highly doubt he ultimately cares unless it's valuable as is, or can be easily brought back up to near concourse standard to make it valuable. Since this apparently doesn't fall into either of those categories he's gonna thrash it while the Weeezard band-aids it, and when the content's been milked out of it and he's bored of driving it he's gonna make it someone else's problem. He's not a steward, and he's not a preservation collector - he's a youtuber first and foremost.
And now with the use of low tension piston rings in modern engines to reduce friction and thus improve fuel economy, your advice applies to brand new cars too., Not just used ones.
I would check the oil feed to the rear of the cam boxes, The one-use crush copper washers on the banjo joint can be refitted by mistake and then they leak.
Suggestion: have the Wizard take a good look at the differential pinion and output shaft seals while he is working on your E-type. I had this same IRS rear end with inboard brakes on an early 70's Jag XJ sedan. The output shaft seals were leaking diff fluid all over the brakes making them squeal when applied. British oil seals of that period did not last very long before leaking. Hopefully, yours have been replaced at least once already.
The oil leaks will only cost at most a couple of grand to fix and I really think ; THIS IS THE BEST CAR Hoovie has had so far. And I'm very pleased that he loves the E-type so much! (says a Brit from the automotive midlands; OK, I'm from Solihull, home of Land Rover, not Coventry, home of Jaaaag!) ( My fave car ; Morris Minor!, best car ever made!) Get a Moggie, Hoovie, You'll LOVE it!
pretty much a full engine strip to attend to the rear main oil seal. built dozens of these engines. as said in other comments later lip seal conversion is available but requires machining of the crank and the seal is split to fit.
Hoovie, as the owner of a number of Jaguars including an E Type (1964), THANK YOU for pronouncing The name correctly.
The piece of wood on the front Picture Frame is for jacking the car up without damaging the frame.
Before you even got under the car I knew where the oil was leaking from.
Rear main is an easy job remove the reaction plate then remove engine and gearbox as one lump and if wanted you can upgrade to a modified rear man seal, don't forget to replace the clutch at the same time.
Plenty of You Tube videos to show today's mechanic how to work on real cars.
While you use the 'pig mats' you clutch is still being covered in oil and WILL fail on you.
Most people don't know that, but the oil leak on old Jags is actually by design. That way if you drive off in the morning, you can instantly tell if there's still oil in it without even having to lift the bonnet.
I absolutely love the E-Type jaguar. My father had one when I was little and he used to take me driving in it. Greatest car from that era.
Every time Hoovie does a burnout… 💥
I always cringe when he does that
Strange isn't it, almost like there's a connection there...
It's almost like burnouts create content...
Just drive it until the clutch starts slipping... And with a leak like that it will. We used to have those pads at work white ones and grey. They are flammable! Even without being soaked with oil.
With the rear main seal being that old, it is going to disintegrate when trying to use the Sneaky Peat. In the long run, it may be just as easy to pull the engine and do a complete reseal.
Not only that, to correctly install the rope seal it should be sized with the correct tool otherwise it will be too loose and leak or too tight and burn up and leak. Short cuts are not the way to go on this.... YMMV
When I got my 95' Buick Roadmaster estate wagon I got a complete set of Factory service manuals and the TSBs' and the revision manual that goes to this body series.(5 books in all.)
Immensely helpful in my maintenance of my wagon.
Large oil leaks are just an anti-rust feature. It will also guarantee that the oil is always fresh since you are adding new oil so often. I used to have a truck that would leak about a quart a month so I only had to change the oil & filter twice a year since it was getting fresh oil every month.
Minis had the same anti-corrosion feature, usually from the gear selector shaft seal. Never a rusty subframe :)
Diaper pad seems like a fair idea for my super-slow transmission fluid leak. A few drops per week spreads terribly on the epoxy floor of my parking garage, but isn't worth getting fixed. It leaks so slowly, I haven't ever had to top it up over a dozen years.
How expensive will the rear main be? Apparently, the previous owner figured some aluminum duct-tape and a "for sale" sign would be A LOT cheaper:)
Nah, he didn't waste any time or effort on a for-sale sign, just emailed the dumbest automotive channel in all of utube
Maybe replace that tape with a funnel and hose with catch can.
@@ironymatt Yeah, pretty obvious this guy doesn't know squat about cars, despite having a bunch of cool ones.
I had an old Pontiac that was parked for several years and the rope seal leaked for the first few months (not as bad as that Jag) before it slowed down drastically (no puddles) and went another 100k miles. I would ensure that is the culprit first.
Lol I'm surprised you had a clutch at all with that oil leak. That car is in such good shape. Nice find.
Normally a leaking rear main seal drips engine oil down the front side of the flywheel which slings it around the inside of the bellhousing. Once on the bellhousing it drains toward the inspection cover / hole. You can drive them quite a while before you get enough contamination on the clutch disc causing slippage. Now a leaking front manual transmission seal is another story. They wipe out a clutch pretty quick 😏.
We our selves never owned a Jaguar, but owned a 1974 Triumph TR-6 in the 1980's for my brother to use while in college. Dad enjoyed it to play tennis with a friend as well. We eventually sold it to a German company in Los Angles that buys used European old cars like this and finds buyers in Europe to sell them to and ship them over there, so the car is over there in someone's collection. Regarding E-Types, my mom told me that there was a neighbor across the that was constative Cadillac type person that buys Cadillacs but one day while she working the garden in 1960's when these E-Types were new, she saw him come home in a brand new E-Type and was amazed. The Triumph we had, had its issues no doubt and changing the oil was different then other cars. My brother and our cousin from Germany decided to do an oil change on it one summer and didn't do something correctly with the filter as it wasn't a typical spin on filter and ended up with 6 quarts of oil all over the garage. What a mess it was to clean up.
A rear main seal on a 1966 manual transmission paired up to an in line six shouldn't cost that much unless the part is near impossible to get
there's a conversion kit to switch them to more modern style seals. runs 400ish, makes them way more reliable.
rope is available at every ace hardware lol 79 cents a foot! hahahah
the rear rope type seal is not the issue, it is readily available from all the classic Jaguar parts suppliers, and through Jaguar heritage must be available in any Jaguar dealership. What is costly is the time to do the replacement. There is a special tool to bed the rope seal in its groove. The chinese fingers are not a great thing. I have used them on early Rover V8 crankshaft rope seals and they are not a guarantee of the end of the leaks. Split oil seal like Rover used on their straight six is a good solution. There is a company that makes split oil seals upon order for any ID/OD you can wish
I had a 64 Etype and did the rear main oil seal myself, without removing the trans. The engine must be jacked up a few inches because there are bolts underneath the crossmember that hold up the aluminum 10 qt oil pan. The job took me about 10 hours. Not long after, I took off the front cover and replaced the timing chain slipper that tensions the timing chain. A truly bad design as the 4.2 is an interference engine and if that slipper wasn't replaced during the rebuild it can pop out and there goes the engine.
You are lucky in that the back bottom of the monocoque doesn't look rusty. It's a real rust area that is very difficult to satisfactorily repair if rusted out.
The British racing green looks pretty dang good 👍
12:25 - Transmission is still coming out with the Sneaky Pete - it's a tool that makes it so you don't have to pull the Crankshaft out of the Block, but the Flywheel still needs to come off, and that means the Gearbox and Clutch first. There should be a replacement rubber seal available to replace the rope seal, there are for most popular engines from the period that had rope seals.
Get rid of that diaper thing before the exhaust sets it on fire.
It's a vintage British car. Leaking is it's specialty! You can actually see the Wizard's pupils turn into little dollar signs when you pulled up.
I had a '51 MG-TD that burned a quart of oil every hundred miles.----I did not have it long.
When it stops leaking oil it is out of oil. Also I like the idea of the oil absorb, but I have to say if it were to ignite..... It could be a mess
I am shocked oil soaked fabric +exhaust = a fire waiting to happen. Such a wonderful car. Have you researched it does anyone make a mod kit so you fit a modern conventional rear main oil seal?
Leaking oil is a feature of Jags. If you find no oil on the floor then that is the warning that you need to top it up. Hence the warning lights are never hooked up :)
If it ain't leaking oil, then there is no oil in it- British cars
*Bri'ish
Exactly,, when my old triumph bonnieville quit leaking , i knew the oil level was too low ! Also the headlight switch had 3 positions off ,, flicker and dim .
Seen one just like it in a small Irish town on Sunday, see it a few times a year, I love it 👍❤️🦾🍍🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Hoovie. You'll get more life out of the new rear seal if you don't beat on her anymore. 😂 She's a beauty.
The way that thing runs and drives, TOTALLY worth doing the main seal and whatever can use a redo. The thing is beautiful.
Guys, that is not an oil leak, it is Jaguar external engine preservation fluid. It in the manual.
rust protection fluid.
😂😂
back in the day the clutch would wear out at about 25k, to replace the clutch the hood came off the front suspension was removed and the engine and tranny were then removed. Two men who knew what thew were doing took two fully days at a minimum and the price would approach 1/2 of the original price of the car (in 69-70 car price out the door was about $6010). You could pick up low mileage E types cheap.
It's not leaking oil, it's marking it's territory. That moment of you clowning with your fam is very endearing!
There is a conversion kit available to replace the rope seal for about $390 US
Oil leak looks pretty fresh, wonder whether it existed before Tyler started doing burnouts in a 50 year old car during his last video.
Meh better than it being sat in a garage
@@STSmithable well that’s certainly debatable, however what’s not debatable is that there are many options in between which involve driving the car with respect for its age and purpose. People race these at the likes of the Goodwood Revival yet you never see their drivers doing burnouts or donuts, for good reason.
In hoovie last vid, you see its leaking before as he pulls away. So not hoovies fault.
@@fastharri it was already leaking in hoovies 1st vid.
@@christianbuczko1481 not sure I see it. One certainty is that he has it parked on his rug in his garage for some time with no leaking during his intro so I stand by my point.
13:37....... The best comment of the year from the wizard 😂😂
a friend of mine had a V12 Jaguar. It leaked oil. the routine was: drive it for a day, then a week in the shop.
did 88 mph in one
When I was in high school my hometown held a massive Jaguar show in the historic down town area. The streets were stained for quite sometime.
Saddle Brown interior with Brunswick Green exterior is absolutely Stunning & Quaint Essentially British! Great Job picking out this Exquisite car Tyler!!!
The most entertaining car guy on the web, love the variety.
2 grand is so much less than I was expecting the job to cost. Not bad at all. Granted that's an estimate and who knows what else the Wizard will find that needs to be addressed during the repair process.
That's not dollars - 2 Grand Piano Units.
I own one of these (1968) that doesn't leave puddles. Not checking the oil is not too bright. But they hold 8.5 litres. So just over 4 litres left in it Hoovie. Fix it properly, pull the engine/trans, replace the seal and fit a new clutch. May as well do it properly.
When a British car doesn’t leak oil, that means it’s out of oil
How is there a Nissan Juke in the car wizard's amazing shop? 5:24
It is there for repair.
The parts have to come from all over the world....
You can now replace the rope seals with modern silicone ones👍
Likely the rear main seal is a hand marlinspiked braided rope graphite gasket. Very common on old British engines- including the Rover 3.5l (ex Buick 215 cu in) you can upgrade with a modern XK big end seal or do it the right way- get a modern gasket kit. XK4.2 dual overhead cam, hemi head used in tonnes of UK military vehicles too