That came out great! I’ve switched over to Seymour and I’m loving their paint as well. You are going to love the water cooler. I thought I’ve seen you use one before. Either way, you have to teach yourself to take breaks. And don’t forget to turn the cooler back on when you start welding again. Ask me how I know.
Yeah, I used to run a cooler on the old everlast, but the miller still needs that upgrade. Can’t wait to go back to the 20 torch life. Seymour is tops. Just wait until you see the stainless black!
You'll love having this machine! I scratch built a 49" wide 40 ton finger press brake last year. It'll bend up to 3/8" plate full width and 1/2" plate 20" wide is no problem. Start making different radius dies & positive/negative bucks and the sky is the limit! You can make rocker panels, door sills, B-pillars, etc. in a jiffy. Air over hydraulic is better than hand pumping, but full hydraulic is the way to go. That's my next upgrade, anyway. Not a machine I use everyday, but there's no substitute and it totally upped my capabilities to produce "Factory" looking pieces.
Turned out great! I just picked up the smaller 12 ton version with a small press brake kit. It’s really opened up a lot of opportunity for fabrication! Great idea on these mods, I’ve already noticed the frame flexing so it may be time to get this done as well
I used to run a 500T and 600T break press. After watching it bend 110k steel at 3/8 inch thick like butter is totally satisfying. Those pieces were used for the assembly of pintle hooks for semi trailers. Ever since I’ve wanted a cheap little press so I could do metal fabrication at home. Thank you for making this video as you’ve gotten my hopes up. Sure, this isn’t going to bend that kind or thick of steel but the bending of metal for car projects is what I need.
Max width for 3/8" plate on this press is 11". It's a slow bend at that width but the brake and HF press will do it! Nothing like what you use to run but pretty dang impressive for about $650 all in without these custom mods. $600 if you can score a Harbor Freight 20% off coupon. It's a great investment for your shop, I've made all kinds of cool stuff with a similar setup. My favorite was a custom transmission tunnel for my Toyota rock crawler. I did a drivetrain lift so that it had a completely flat belly from frame rail to frame rail all the way between the front shackles and rear spring hangers. My press brake bent all the 1/8" reinforcement strips and the sheet metal tunnel itself. Made it in sections so it's all removable and serviceable and the best part was the top two bell housing bolts were a breeze to get to now! I made the entire rear section of the tunnel out of 1/8" plate as it's right where the driveshaft CV joint is. Figured make it like an NHRA drag car hoop so if the driveshaft ever lets go, it is contained and no threat to occupants. Long story short, if you're wanting to up your car fabrication game, this is a very wise investment!
@@tbroekemeier thank you for that info! I have a 1990 Miata that I’m lining up an engine swap and rather fab my own parts when and where I can. This will help and same with the info you gave me. It’s much appreciated!
I just picked up a 20T air/hydraulic cylinder when they purged the old line of them, and will definitely be reinforcing the top gantry before installing it on my press. Having a Swag bending brake has been a wonderful addition to this press for years.
Personally i rather enjoyed the blues, and I hsd no trouble understanding anything you said, but then I'm watching on a new Sony, and listening through Yamaha surround sound.. So most definitely a big difference between even a good phone, and what I'm using Not capping on anyone by any means, merely saying the devices one is has available makes the difference. Just as turning the press capabilities up several notches improved the end product, and in the long run, will save you many frustrated headaches, and reworking the different things you are making. Sorry bout the novel, but it is what it is, and at my age it's not likely to change. BTW, here comes the dam cold again, it once wasn't a problem, but age an Uncle Arthur changes things I've learned. Take care, and you're building up a good bit of equipment, and that just makes life easier to do the things you want to do. Always been a tool lover myself, only thing is soon you find yourself outta usable space again. Take care stay warm
Great mod andn explanation of its limitations. I am definitely going to do that top brace before I start boxing in the rest of it. I would love to see some kind of pulley/wire/thing mod to raise and lower the bed frame. That's the biggest PITA for me when changing between projects. Love the content, going to deep dive your previous vids.
That would be really helpful, for sure. I think even the 40 and 50 ton versions lack a pulley system, and those are a pain for sure. Thanks for being here, and I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Boxing in I-beams increases the torsional stiffness a lot, which is important for vehicles, but isn't needed for the bending loads presses are subjected to. To increase bending stiffness, add plates to the flanges, or add triangulation as you did.
Maybe the newer HF presses are better, but this older on bends way more than it should. With these plates, it still bends, but much more like real big-boy presses I'm accustomed to.
I have one of these presses, as well. I picked up enough steel last fall that I can turn it into a 48" wide throsted press. 20 ton is enough smash for me. The 2nd step will be machining & fab a finger press attachment for it. In the process of widening it, I'm also going to stabilize the press beam w/ some wheels & bearings, so I can pull off some moderate duty press punch manuevers.
Just subscribed!! Great video! I’ve also got the Swag Off-road Brake for my press. I’ve made some awesome parts for the Ranger with it. Seeing the dimple plates for extra structure on the press it self is genius. Definitely will be doing that modification once I get settled in my new garage up here in Montana.
@@WillometMotorFab it’s just a small 2 car garage that’s not insulated yet 🤣. So it’s limited work depending on the temperatures. But I’m ready to get back to fabricating stuff for my Ranger.
Their paint may be thick by the welds on the Harbor Freight backhoe that I bought were cracking down the middle of the welds on some of the joints and the thick paint was filling/leveling some of the undercuts on the welds which made the welds look decent.
Awesome video! Great info and knowledge, I think there may be something wrong with the audio balance, your speech is only in the left ear sometimes when you're speaking to the camera. Keep up the videos though! you have a new sub here.
I did that before I started making videos, but I’ll make sure to recap in a future one. It’s just a simple parts swap - no mods needed. Get the air/hydraulic 20 ton from HF or wherever, and you’re done.
I just found this channel, and I love the content as well as the production. I have the same press! After seeing this video, it just seems ghetto, lol.
Speaking to that "paint harder than woodpecker lips": brushed and ground in your shop without a respirator, whatever is in that paint is now part of you and your working environment. Without basic precautions, these needs-of-the-moment impose long term liabilities.
There are a few moments I missed wearing my respirator - a quick grind here or there - but that’s not okay long term. The obvious ones, like every time I weld or strip paint or grind for long periods, are easy, so I appreciate you reminding me about the smaller moments that can add up over time.
@@WillometMotorFab My comment is as much a reminder to myself, unsatisfied with choices I've made. While I've masked up for recent sanding and stripping, not so with stick welding, with all the noxious gas that produces. What are you wearing/what filter are you using for welding? I need to equip myself.
I use a 3M 7000 series mask, and P100 filters with activated charcoal. The charcoal is optional, but helps with the stinky. Definitely mask up when you're burning that flux.
Dude, I totally think the paint is worse than what we use here, but I’d be surprised if there’s lead. It’s not so old that it escapes a bunch of import rules forbidding lead in paint. Still, wear a respirator.
@@WillometMotorFab I can think of 50 different products imported that are illegal. They'll just mark a different box or change a description or lie. Ebay just got ordered to pay 2 Billion fine for their role in selling/suggesting illegal diesel truck mods/products. A lot of it was I ported from uh "foreign sellers"
You new gen people. Haha. Im 80 and if you want to strip that paint and just rinse it off. You need lye. Just buy a can of Easy off brand oven cleaner.. Spray it on and let it work then just rinse and wipe off.😅😅
The SWAG stuff is top notch for sure. I saw the new ones are mostly C channel, which is a huge step up from formed plate. I would definitely still do a topper on that frame since C channel still flexes a fair bit.
I absolutely could have stick welded this, but I'm better practiced at MIG. I haven't stick welded in many years, but 6011 and 7018 were my go-to rods when I did. Now that you mention it, I kind of want to do it all again with some good rods.
Not sure why you have music over your voice when your talking. Makes it hard to hear what you’re saying. Nice work, looks good. I’m still needing to grab a press.
The plates box in an open C shape and make it stronger. Dimples add strength so we can use thinner material that's similar in strength to a thicker non-dimpled material. It might gather some dust inside the holes, but that's worth it (to me) to be able to have a press frame that doesn't bend. These HF presses are pretty flexy out of the box.
There’s so much variation across harbor freights own press line - the current ones are different from mine - that it’s hard to make a kit and guarantee the fit. I would suggest taking dimensions off your press, and using SendCutSend’s parts builder to make a set of plates for exactly your setup.
Thanks for that note. The edit software automatically raises and lowers the audio when there’s dialogue. Some other folks had similar difficulty, and I plan to adjust the db separation so it’s easier to hear the dialogue clearly.
For stuff over 20 tons, I kind of agree. This is definitely targeted at folks that are sort of stuck with a flexy tool from HF and want to improve what they have. The frame mods and press build each took a day, and that includes me filming it.
The newer 20 ton press is far better than the ancient models . It seems that throwing big money at the old design is silly when you could have spent the same money at the new design . Besides, Swag makes a ton of add ons to the new press you can either buy or copy yourself if you want to fab them up yourself .
I saw your second comment, and only want to kindly disagree that it’s silly to work with what you have, even if a newer model is superior and it might barely cost more that this labor plus some fancy plates. Like I said in the video, you can box in using plain materials, which I’ll admit the dimples are way extra. I got this second hand, and there’s value in making what you have work. There are a lot of these ancient (perfect adjective, by the way) ones out there that could still be useful. Also, the new ones still flex, but less so. I wouldn’t recommend the side plates, but would still do a topper and probably box the horizontal beams. Seriously, thank you for your comment. The make vs buy discussion is a good one to have.
Actually, my first post was in ignorance, while my second post was more in commending what you have done with the little press . :) It's a beautiful little beast . lol And yeah, it sure is worth the effort to make a master piece out of seemingly junk . I think I was in the same mind on my second post after I watched the whole video . And I forgot to sub last time, I won't forget now . :)@@WillometMotorFab
@@michael-michaelmotorcycle 😂 I kinda side with you. Not my style of music in any way, but: at least it's not the same riffraff you hear on every other channel. Imo nothing to bitch about.
@@WillometMotorFab take 2 pieces of material that thickness and MIG weld them with that gas shielded weld and take the same 2 pieces and 7018 weld them then flex both. I will absolutely guarantee that the MiG weld will break on the first flex and that the 7018 will take multiple flexes. It is NOT the man, it is the machine. It makes absolutely no difference who is holding the gun, it is the gas coming out of the nozzle and the process. You have NO penetration control with shortcircuit transfer.
I disagree with nothing you said, but recall your original comment. This is just a cheap press with 3/16 material that isn’t hard to penetrate at all. As long as the welder is big enough, regular old MIG is fine for this. Now, stick welding it would have been cool, too.
Short answer is to keep your lungs free of toxic stuff. MIG makes a ton of smoke, anything with flux does the same, welding anything stainless puts off hexavalent chromium which will eventually turn lungs into an ingot, and so on. Live to build another day. Also, my wife likes having me around.
That came out great! I’ve switched over to Seymour and I’m loving their paint as well. You are going to love the water cooler. I thought I’ve seen you use one before. Either way, you have to teach yourself to take breaks. And don’t forget to turn the cooler back on when you start welding again. Ask me how I know.
Yeah, I used to run a cooler on the old everlast, but the miller still needs that upgrade. Can’t wait to go back to the 20 torch life. Seymour is tops. Just wait until you see the stainless black!
Glad you’ve made the switch!
Torch life is about 15 seconds with no water flowing 😂
The paint is what holds a harbor freight press together.
Haha! I think you’re right.
So true
You'll love having this machine! I scratch built a 49" wide 40 ton finger press brake last year. It'll bend up to 3/8" plate full width and 1/2" plate 20" wide is no problem. Start making different radius dies & positive/negative bucks and the sky is the limit! You can make rocker panels, door sills, B-pillars, etc. in a jiffy. Air over hydraulic is better than hand pumping, but full hydraulic is the way to go. That's my next upgrade, anyway. Not a machine I use everyday, but there's no substitute and it totally upped my capabilities to produce "Factory" looking pieces.
Thanks so much for that peek ahead. I’ve got a lot of practice ahead to get the full use of this tool.
Awesome Dave. Thanks for the share on the SCS dimple die plates.
I love that we don’t have to buy every die! Thanks for being here.
theres a special place in my heart for modifying and customizing tools. this project turned out awesome!
I appreciate the safety plugs, especially the respirator, of which I need constant reminding.
Turned out great! I just picked up the smaller 12 ton version with a small press brake kit. It’s really opened up a lot of opportunity for fabrication!
Great idea on these mods, I’ve already noticed the frame flexing so it may be time to get this done as well
I think my 20 ton frame is actually bent a little bit. Do that topper brace!
I used to run a 500T and 600T break press. After watching it bend 110k steel at 3/8 inch thick like butter is totally satisfying. Those pieces were used for the assembly of pintle hooks for semi trailers. Ever since I’ve wanted a cheap little press so I could do metal fabrication at home. Thank you for making this video as you’ve gotten my hopes up. Sure, this isn’t going to bend that kind or thick of steel but the bending of metal for car projects is what I need.
Yeah, it’s clear how this can be a sweet little piece of gear, but definitely has its limitations.
Max width for 3/8" plate on this press is 11". It's a slow bend at that width but the brake and HF press will do it! Nothing like what you use to run but pretty dang impressive for about $650 all in without these custom mods. $600 if you can score a Harbor Freight 20% off coupon. It's a great investment for your shop, I've made all kinds of cool stuff with a similar setup. My favorite was a custom transmission tunnel for my Toyota rock crawler. I did a drivetrain lift so that it had a completely flat belly from frame rail to frame rail all the way between the front shackles and rear spring hangers. My press brake bent all the 1/8" reinforcement strips and the sheet metal tunnel itself. Made it in sections so it's all removable and serviceable and the best part was the top two bell housing bolts were a breeze to get to now! I made the entire rear section of the tunnel out of 1/8" plate as it's right where the driveshaft CV joint is. Figured make it like an NHRA drag car hoop so if the driveshaft ever lets go, it is contained and no threat to occupants. Long story short, if you're wanting to up your car fabrication game, this is a very wise investment!
@@tbroekemeier thank you for that info! I have a 1990 Miata that I’m lining up an engine swap and rather fab my own parts when and where I can. This will help and same with the info you gave me. It’s much appreciated!
I love my swag kit. I have the smaller one but it works so good
I can totally see how it will change the game here in the shop. What kind of work and material to you primarily use it for?
Sir ... one of the better upgrade tutorials that i have seen ... thanks a mint for sharing !!!
Glad you liked it!
I just picked up a 20T air/hydraulic cylinder when they purged the old line of them, and will definitely be reinforcing the top gantry before installing it on my press.
Having a Swag bending brake has been a wonderful addition to this press for years.
You’ll love the air/hyd ram. Glad to hear the swag brake works so well, and I’m excited to really get to know the tool well.
Personally i rather enjoyed the blues, and I hsd no trouble understanding anything you said, but then I'm watching on a new Sony, and listening through Yamaha surround sound..
So most definitely a big difference between even a good phone, and what I'm using
Not capping on anyone by any means, merely saying the devices one is has available makes the difference.
Just as turning the press capabilities up several notches improved the end product, and in the long run, will save you many frustrated headaches, and reworking the different things you are making.
Sorry bout the novel, but it is what it is, and at my age it's not likely to change.
BTW, here comes the dam cold again, it once wasn't a problem, but age an Uncle Arthur changes things I've learned.
Take care, and you're building up a good bit of equipment, and that just makes life easier to do the things you want to do.
Always been a tool lover myself, only thing is soon you find yourself outta usable space again.
Take care stay warm
Glad you dig the music. It’s all inspired by the hotrod red coat of paint!
Great mod andn explanation of its limitations. I am definitely going to do that top brace before I start boxing in the rest of it. I would love to see some kind of pulley/wire/thing mod to raise and lower the bed frame. That's the biggest PITA for me when changing between projects. Love the content, going to deep dive your previous vids.
That would be really helpful, for sure. I think even the 40 and 50 ton versions lack a pulley system, and those are a pain for sure. Thanks for being here, and I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
I love your fixture table.
🤟 It transformed the way I build, and my quality.
Boxing in I-beams increases the torsional stiffness a lot, which is important for vehicles, but isn't needed for the bending loads presses are subjected to.
To increase bending stiffness, add plates to the flanges, or add triangulation as you did.
Maybe the newer HF presses are better, but this older on bends way more than it should. With these plates, it still bends, but much more like real big-boy presses I'm accustomed to.
I have one of these presses, as well. I picked up enough steel last fall that I can turn it into a 48" wide throsted press.
20 ton is enough smash for me. The 2nd step will be machining & fab a finger press attachment for it.
In the process of widening it, I'm also going to stabilize the press beam w/ some wheels & bearings, so I can pull off some moderate duty press punch manuevers.
Dude, tag me on social as you build that bad boy! So cool.
Great idea, I have purchased a couple of items from SWAG, great stuff.
Solid gear. I love how they solve real world problems.
You could use a torch to get the paint from the corners,before you apply the stripper.
Totally. Great idea.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Never thought I would need one but I guess I will be getting one thanks 😊
If you’re getting a new press, you can probably skip the side plates for reinforcement. These older ones use formed plate rather than structural C.
Nice job! Hello from Denton (TX of course)!
Howdy! Hey there, Mean Green!
Just subscribed!! Great video! I’ve also got the Swag Off-road Brake for my press. I’ve made some awesome parts for the Ranger with it. Seeing the dimple plates for extra structure on the press it self is genius. Definitely will be doing that modification once I get settled in my new garage up here in Montana.
Thanks for the sub! A working garage in Montana sounds pretty darned fine to me.
@@WillometMotorFab it’s just a small 2 car garage that’s not insulated yet 🤣. So it’s limited work depending on the temperatures. But I’m ready to get back to fabricating stuff for my Ranger.
Tag me on social as you make progress. Big ideas come out of small shops.
@@WillometMotorFab yeah man absolutely! I’ll be sure to tag you. I’ve been really trying to get going on UA-cam also.
Try a needle scaler for corners...they work amazing. You'll wonder how you ever got by without it
Solid tip. I never think of them outside structural work, but really should.
Their paint may be thick by the welds on the Harbor Freight backhoe that I bought were cracking down the middle of the welds on some of the joints and the thick paint was filling/leveling some of the undercuts on the welds which made the welds look decent.
Awesome video! Great info and knowledge, I think there may be something wrong with the audio balance, your speech is only in the left ear sometimes when you're speaking to the camera. Keep up the videos though! you have a new sub here.
Thanks for those notes, and welcome. I’m glad you’re here.
I'd use 1/8th 7018. Definitely my preference for structural.
I wish I had thought to use the stick function on the Multimatic.
Great video!! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Video on air cylinder install?
I did that before I started making videos, but I’ll make sure to recap in a future one. It’s just a simple parts swap - no mods needed. Get the air/hydraulic 20 ton from HF or wherever, and you’re done.
What would be really cool is if he posted the fusion files to send to send cut Send.
I didn’t make these in fusion. I’ll gladly share the DXF if you want.
@@WillometMotorFab that would be pretty cool.
Yar, would you share those DXF files? That would be sick.
Great!
Thanks!
I just found this channel, and I love the content as well as the production. I have the same press! After seeing this video, it just seems ghetto, lol.
Glad you’re here!
Tougher than woodpecker lips! 😂
That’s at the top of the toughmeter!
Dang, this guy beat me to this exact comment!! 😂 Sincerely, First Loser
4:48 Dimpleception! 🤣
Haha! Thats a new hashtag.
The paint is powder coating.
I was totally thrown, because it’s the thinnest powder I’ve ever seen. I’m sure you’re right, but sure didn’t register with me.
Use air plain stripper it goes to the metal
Great video. My press has seen better days itself. Any chance you would be willing to share the files on the plates to get a set of my own from SCS.
I’d happily share the DXF, but you should triple verify it would fit your press. There’s a bunch of variation within and across makes.
Speaking to that "paint harder than woodpecker lips": brushed and ground in your shop without a respirator, whatever is in that paint is now part of you and your working environment. Without basic precautions, these needs-of-the-moment impose long term liabilities.
There are a few moments I missed wearing my respirator - a quick grind here or there - but that’s not okay long term. The obvious ones, like every time I weld or strip paint or grind for long periods, are easy, so I appreciate you reminding me about the smaller moments that can add up over time.
@@WillometMotorFab My comment is as much a reminder to myself, unsatisfied with choices I've made. While I've masked up for recent sanding and stripping, not so with stick welding, with all the noxious gas that produces. What are you wearing/what filter are you using for welding? I need to equip myself.
I use a 3M 7000 series mask, and P100 filters with activated charcoal. The charcoal is optional, but helps with the stinky. Definitely mask up when you're burning that flux.
I’ve found brake cleaner takes the harbor freight paint off. I dont recall if it were chlorinated (bad for welding) or non-chlorinated.
Good tip. I’ll try that on the next one of these types of projects.
I think you just voided your 90 day warranty.
Haha! Was it the paint? I bet it was the paint.
Might want to check your mic 75% of vocals only coming through the left channel
Lol I got a harbor freight shop press out of the trash. After using it. I threw it right back in the trash where it belonged
Someone should chip some paint and do a lead test on it. Wonder if they're still using lead paint in China
Dude, I totally think the paint is worse than what we use here, but I’d be surprised if there’s lead. It’s not so old that it escapes a bunch of import rules forbidding lead in paint. Still, wear a respirator.
@@WillometMotorFab I can think of 50 different products imported that are illegal. They'll just mark a different box or change a description or lie. Ebay just got ordered to pay 2 Billion fine for their role in selling/suggesting illegal diesel truck mods/products. A lot of it was I ported from uh "foreign sellers"
Thought theusic was very NOT Bad. Certainly far worse choices out there. All in all, good content and Happy New Year to you as well!
I'm glad you appreciated the music. I actually have a fun time choosing it, and yeah, there are a lot of stinkers out there.
You new gen people. Haha. Im 80 and if you want to strip that paint and just rinse it off. You need lye. Just buy a can of Easy off brand oven cleaner.. Spray it on and let it work then just rinse and wipe off.😅😅
I’ve learned plenty from my elders, so your shake and bake tip is added to the list. 🤝
I didn't watch the video completebefore the first post, so I'm stepping on my tongue a little . lol
The SWAG stuff is top notch for sure. I saw the new ones are mostly C channel, which is a huge step up from formed plate. I would definitely still do a topper on that frame since C channel still flexes a fair bit.
Serious question, when welding something dirty, why not arc with some 7018 or 6010?
I absolutely could have stick welded this, but I'm better practiced at MIG. I haven't stick welded in many years, but 6011 and 7018 were my go-to rods when I did. Now that you mention it, I kind of want to do it all again with some good rods.
Not sure why you have music over your voice when your talking. Makes it hard to hear what you’re saying.
Nice work, looks good. I’m still needing to grab a press.
I think their new presses are entirely made from c channel, so probably tougher than my old one
By chance is there a way to get the dxf files for getting those reinforcement plates? I think its very cool.
I will gladly share them. Just make sure the measurements will suit whatever version of the press you might have.
@@WillometMotorFab Thank you! Is there a place I can download from? Or should I private message you? I went ahead and messaged you on Instagram 😀
It isn't paint, it's powder coating.
I’m sure you’re right, and I’m just thrown off because I’m used to powder being much thicker.
I don't understand adding the dimpled stock.
Looks like you just made a dirt catcher that is nearly impossible to clean out.
The plates box in an open C shape and make it stronger. Dimples add strength so we can use thinner material that's similar in strength to a thicker non-dimpled material. It might gather some dust inside the holes, but that's worth it (to me) to be able to have a press frame that doesn't bend. These HF presses are pretty flexy out of the box.
so are you offering the reinforcement kit? or selling a dxf for sendcut send?
There’s so much variation across harbor freights own press line - the current ones are different from mine - that it’s hard to make a kit and guarantee the fit. I would suggest taking dimensions off your press, and using SendCutSend’s parts builder to make a set of plates for exactly your setup.
Do you have the file you used? Id love to purchase the "kit" from send cut send
The newer presses are shaped a little different from my older one, but swag is talking about making their own set that’s inspired by my design
Other than the background music being far too loud (it drowns out your voice), great video.
Thanks for that note. The edit software automatically raises and lowers the audio when there’s dialogue. Some other folks had similar difficulty, and I plan to adjust the db separation so it’s easier to hear the dialogue clearly.
Just adjust its volume down a little overall..
Where did you get the sander attached to your drill. I do a lot of work with Aluminum and that would be awesome to have
The drum sander is the SCT tool from Eastwood, and the wire brush was just an Amazon attachment. Does that help?
Maybe he was taking about the tubing sander
You’re absolutely right! Thats a 525 tubing sander. It’s handy, but a bit expensive.
It looks like it might be quicker to build from scratch.
For stuff over 20 tons, I kind of agree. This is definitely targeted at folks that are sort of stuck with a flexy tool from HF and want to improve what they have. The frame mods and press build each took a day, and that includes me filming it.
What's the point of having a press if you can't make your dimple dies? 😂
The newer 20 ton press is far better than the ancient models . It seems that throwing big money at the old design is silly when you could have spent the same money at the new design . Besides, Swag makes a ton of add ons to the new press you can either buy or copy yourself if you want to fab them up yourself .
I saw your second comment, and only want to kindly disagree that it’s silly to work with what you have, even if a newer model is superior and it might barely cost more that this labor plus some fancy plates. Like I said in the video, you can box in using plain materials, which I’ll admit the dimples are way extra.
I got this second hand, and there’s value in making what you have work. There are a lot of these ancient (perfect adjective, by the way) ones out there that could still be useful.
Also, the new ones still flex, but less so. I wouldn’t recommend the side plates, but would still do a topper and probably box the horizontal beams.
Seriously, thank you for your comment. The make vs buy discussion is a good one to have.
Actually, my first post was in ignorance, while my second post was more in commending what you have done with the little press . :)
It's a beautiful little beast . lol
And yeah, it sure is worth the effort to make a master piece out of seemingly junk . I think I was in the same mind on my second post after I watched the whole video . And I forgot to sub last time, I won't forget now . :)@@WillometMotorFab
I'm glad you're here, and thanks very much for the support!@@johnjelinek-g7b
It'd be a whole lot better off for worldbeat modification to get yourself a dye grinder and some carbide bits 1:48
Worldbeat?
👍😎👍
🙌🙌🙌
These are 10 year old mods, if you haven't heard of SWAG you must be a pilgrim.
Greetings, Native American.
Woodpeckers have no lips, just like moth don't have balls, add frogs don't have false eyelashes.
Those are some of my favorite measuring units!
nice work but probably not useful. the press was able to handle 20 tons and now it can handle more but the bottle jack is still 20 tons
It’s kind of a capacity change, since the frame bends pretty bad well before maxing out the cylinder, so that’s helpful.
Just torch the paint with Oxygen and acetylene
the music ruins a good video. to bad it started out interesting
Cant please them all. I dont think it hurt the video
Your comment ruins a good comment section.
I have to agree. I muted the sound, so I missed some really good information from you.
The music is fine....helps keeps interest the whole time.
@@michael-michaelmotorcycle 😂 I kinda side with you. Not my style of music in any way, but: at least it's not the same riffraff you hear on every other channel.
Imo nothing to bitch about.
First off using a MIG welder to attempt to do structural welds on material that thick is a waste of wire, it's not going to happen.
False lot's of guys have used MIG for years repairing/fabricating heavy machinery then working the equipment hard for many more years
Yeah. There’s a long list of code welders that mig, and do it well. Also, the frame on this junk is 3/16, so it’s not some sort of behemoth.
@@WillometMotorFab take 2 pieces of material that thickness and MIG weld them with that gas shielded weld and take the same 2 pieces and 7018 weld them then flex both. I will absolutely guarantee that the MiG weld will break on the first flex and that the 7018 will take multiple flexes.
It is NOT the man, it is the machine. It makes absolutely no difference who is holding the gun, it is the gas coming out of the nozzle and the process. You have NO penetration control with shortcircuit transfer.
I disagree with nothing you said, but recall your original comment. This is just a cheap press with 3/16 material that isn’t hard to penetrate at all. As long as the welder is big enough, regular old MIG is fine for this.
Now, stick welding it would have been cool, too.
@@alandavis6429 You may think that but doesn't mean you're right. Maybe your skills are limited but doesn't others are
How can we get a set of the dimpled metal inserts for our HF 20 ton press?
I just measured my press, and drew these up in my software. The dimple feature at SCS isn't live yet, but will be soon.
@@WillometMotorFab Can I trouble you to share the file(s) ? Maybe you can make an affiliate link or put it on your website
Why wear a respirator every time?
Short answer is to keep your lungs free of toxic stuff. MIG makes a ton of smoke, anything with flux does the same, welding anything stainless puts off hexavalent chromium which will eventually turn lungs into an ingot, and so on.
Live to build another day. Also, my wife likes having me around.