Hey man, just wanted to say I really appreciate your videos. I just got my minibike and was looking to upgrade it and came across this video. Watched it step-by-step maybe 10-15 times.😂 I'm 13 and just got my first ever carburetor installed on my minibike. Thank you so much.❤
That's awesome! Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad my video helped you out! I've got more videos on these cool little minibikes coming up. Some practical changes, and honestly, some not so practical ;-)
They're not too big for a 196. You just need the jetting, a cam and gearing to support its full potential. That includes a billet rod and flywheel for safety. Gearing can be done with sprockets or Juggernaut/tork zilla driver. From what I have seen from your other videos it looks like you may have had an issue with the stock carb to get only 31 mph then jump to 40 plus with the Mikuni style carb. There shouldn't be that big of a difference on a stock bike that is topping out at less than stock max governed RPM. Probably somewhere around 3400 RPM. There's a good lesson here for everyone doing the same mods on the Coleman 200's. Don't waste your time removing the governor because you will not be able to get "ungoverned" RPM. Just keep the governor arm in position with a light spring until you can get ungoverned RPM with more engine and gearing. Any built 196 is more than capable of doing just that with the right gearing. Governor removal should be done during the engine build, not before an engine build..
Love it! Some great information in there, thanks! I have a 208 (212cc) engine that I'm putting on next and will be doing some more advanced mods to it - the same VM22 carb, upping the compression a bit, billet rod, billet flywheel, valve springs, etc, just to get a better idea of what a bit more compression and displacement will do.
I really appreciate your videos. That stock throttle linkage is way too complicated. I was messing around with it and never able to put it back quite correct. It got more peppy but theres not a lot of play anymore to go slow easily. This looks to be the perfect upgrade to get rid of that whole linkage and gain some serious speed improvement at the same time. Thank you for a clear and consise walk through.
Again, thank you for the feed back! Yeah, having that weird not-really-connected-to-the-carb-butterfly complicated linkage that comes on these engines makes it a lot easier to work on! I remind myself that these 6.5hp engines are really coming from agricultural origins where they're meant to run all day long at around 3600 rpm, driving pumps etc.
If you don't remove the internal governor actuation lever it will bounce against the crankshaft . Either remove it OR attach a small light spring on the outside linkage to pull it back towards the carb keeping tension on it so it won't bounce against the crankshaft inside . 😊
@@christophermendoza2986 you should remove it since your not going to be hooking up that VM 22 to it and if you leave the plastic gear and the rest of the governor inside , eventually it's going to come apart and that's not good . This is the right way to CYA . ARC rod and billet flywheel are a good idea since no more governor means higher rpm's .
Awesome 👍 More great tips. Every minibike or dirtbike needs a fuel filter. Especially if you're stealing gas from Dad's rusty old lawnmower gas can. Cheers from Canada :-)
@@wetcoastfab its faster than I expected. Id like to remove the governor and get an exhaust so its not melting the fender. Interested in the torque converter aspect as well.
Valve springs are a must. if you want to rev to a point where the CVT becomes the limitation, you need to go beyond 4200rpm. 18lb valve springs will allow that. but you should look into a PVL flywheel or go full Billet Aluminium, both advance the ignition timing which gives more top end power, but at this point you want to open it up and fit a Billet Conrod, you could fit a 0.020" longer one if your piston allows, or even upgrade to a flat top piston for higher compression. the Hemi piston is a direct swap and the most cost effective swap but measure the piston height first if you go for a stock length rod then a 0.010" head gasket will work, if you end up with the piston flush with the top of the block you need a 27 to 45 thou gasket, and then there are literally dozens of different Camshafts from each supplier to choose from (my choice is the CM grind from Dyno cams... the hottest of the budget cams)
Love the feedback! I have a 10k aluminum flywheel to try out, with 26lb springs. I've also got a 0.020 longer conrod and high-compression piston to try out. I'll measure out the clearances first and if I can get 10 - 12:1 compression, I'll try 100 octane gas and see if she goes boom!
The stock valve springs are not the reason why it's not getting higher RPM. It's currently limited by gearing. Guys have experienced this for many years with the tall tire bikes. Even with your suggested engine build you'd be lucky to get to 4500 RPM. A gearing change is needed to take advantage of an engine build. The easiest gearing change for higher RPM is the Juggernaut or Tork-Zilla driver. 7.5:1 gearing is much better than 4.5:1 against a 19 inch tire.
@@wetcoastfab Easiest way to get 10:1 or more CR is with a 14cc head. A flatop and a plus 20 rod would still be under 10:1 with the stock 22cc head. A 14cc head, plus 20 rod, and flat top may get you more compression than you want or need.
I don’t know a whole bunch about carb.s but what has always worked for me is Set the bike up on a block or something to free up back tire. Get it to crank, turn the high side ( bottom screw )out till the engine speeds up and sound smooths out Leave it where the engine runs fastest! Now turn the idler screw ( side of carb). Down until idles like u want it. 😊 It should perform real close to what is expected! Until you billet it! You should not need to re jet the czarb Just need to tune it up ! I had a 95 # when stock!! only till I put a cam in 😮I’m stage three ! At 58mph I still have a lil throttle left just out of guts ! 😮😂😊
Summit racing has the vm22 the real deal mikuni carburetor. The pilot screws on the side as well as the idle screw and you can change out the jet on the side of the carburetor also
Hey good job, I'm not trying to Bragg but if you just start pipe it and zip tie the govener spring, remove the throat screw, take off air filter cover, it will go 41-44 mph
The stock flywheel on these things weighs about 2.4kg. If you want it to rev out more you can swap it out for a cast aluminum one (not necessarily billet). Mine cost $66 Australian (including shipping).
Thanks for the comment! In fact, I bought the cheapest 10k aluminum flywheel I could find on Amazon and plan to test it to its limits, perhaps to its destruction?
Bro thank you sm for this video I went thru every step you did had it on in bout an hr😂, this was my first time doing something like this by myself too
Hey I got the same ride (bt200x) and I get 40 mph out of it and the only mods I've done is straight pipe, torque converter and disabled governor and I'm running stock carb
I have a stock bt200xg so same bike just black and green and i got it to 33.5 just by making a new return spring and and changing the throttle spring to a metal rod
Ps if you delete the jack shaft you loose torque but will hit around 50 mph all day long 💯🔥 just be careful on the factory wheels they balloon out a little bit
Yup, the soft springy tires on this thing make me nervous. I think when I get some more speed out of it, I'll look for some proper DOT tires that can handle it
Your videos are well put together . But if you’re gonna remove the stock carb and install an after market , please remove the governor gear. You just left it dangling like that? Not my build but there’s youngsters watching you doing the same thing. Theres a lot of videos on how to do it but when you go into depth with the parts that u use and educate your audience , you get high value videos. I’m sorry , im not trying to hate . I’m slowly working my way into making videos on some cool builds and educate beginners so they dont make the same mistakes that i did. Keep working on your craft .
Thank you for the comments! No hate received, I 100% agree with you! I have planned out a video that will focus on the governor delete and how there's various ways of doing it based on the viewer's skill level from the simple 'delete' I did to a 'proper' removal.
i always thought the needle is for 25-75 percent throttle, the main jet controls the wide open supply. if too rich at wide open, maybe a smaller main could fix it?
You're absolutely right! The needle is also tapered as well, so as it moves up with more throttle, the cross section of the main tube gets larger, feeding more fuel - dependant on the opening of the main jet hole, of course!
Dude mine is a base 196 hisun engine came with it I got just a cold air intake and a 1 inch pipe for exhaust maybe 1 foot long and I’m slow take off because no TC but I get up to 47mph top speed and I am 5 foot 10 weighing 320 pounds
The torq-a-verter has plenty of gearing, that being said, I have have great luck with installing a larger rear (+10 teeth) sprocket for acceleration. It did NOT seem to affect top speed.
I got the axis m200 I got the little kit too off Amazon what you’re doing and what did you do to the valve spring hole where the old tube went through.
Don’t know how useful a inline fuel filter is ?? There great, it also helps to keep moisture from making it into the engine. Try using it, after 5-10 gal just look and see! If it jumps, moves ,wiggles, use a table when assembling, clips,&keeps! I say this because it took me getting frustrated enough for buying lost clips , jets, screws ! Anywho … save a screw use a table !
Dont know if anyone else seen it but when you removed the needle you dropped the nylon washer that goes under the e clip. If u look really close on the paper towel you will see
I have this bike and want to do the mods but in my mind the faster you go you still have to stop the brakes are junk what can one do to upgrade the brakes you still have to stop the bike
So I have that same bike and the stock muffler burnt through the mounting bolts and fell off so bought exhaust like what u have and rode it around and muffler tip burnt off then bought another and same thing happened…what is causing this?
Nice set up there, do you think that it will work on a stock Honda GX160 engine? I really would like to make mine run a bit better. Mine gets held back by the governor, if I have to remove the governor so be it. Thanks. I forgot to mention, I bought a stage1 kit for it but it didn't work due to running rich and I even smelled it in my oil so I had to change the oil too.
It might be too much carb for that size of engine; you'd have a hard time getting the jetting figured out. Gas smell in the oil is bad for sure! Thanks for the feedback!
It varies depending on the elevation where he lives versus where you live. Yours might not be the same as his. But he could go up or down a size at his location and see if he gets better performance.
Buy a juggernaut clutch driver from go power sport doesnt slip the belt and increase speed and power and you can change the springs out on the torque converter to get more torque and speed or just change the gear on the cvt and the rear sprocket
@@wetcoastfab upgraded rod as well if you're turning 6k+, I've got a cast flywheel to 5100 and that's as far as I felt comfortable with but to each their own
What rpm is unsafe with stock flywheel do ya think?? U think 3700-4000 is to much on stock parts? Maybe a dumb question but was jus wondering thx..reason I ask is it looked like that what he was at at 41mph?
@@BH-Bugs I've turned my 79cc to 5100 bone stock, and it held together just fine. I know the parts are a little different, but the quality is quite similar. Head over to childish concepts online store, they have 212 clone flywheels for just 39.95. I just bought one yesterday.
Hey i got a new carb for my bt200x and my bike wont start with out starting fluid and when it does i have to keep giving gas or it will die out i have tried the screw thingy on it
So I upgraded my carburetor on my DX with the vm22 but now when I started it wants to take off right away do I need to get to torque converter cuz right now I have just the chain and jackshaft
Take off the air filter (if you've installed it) and have a look at the slide with the throttle closed all the way. You should have almost no gap at all between the slide and the carb body. If you do at fully closed throttle, you may not have enough cable length or need to adjust the cable. Let me know!
If you look in that video around 13:30 or so, you'll see where I have the throttle slide stuck open about half-way. Then go to around 15:20 and you'll see the way the throttle should be all the way closed. Let me know if that's clear enough.
It is! In fact, last weekend I took the BT200X deep into the mountains to record some more footage for an upcoming video, and it didn't miss a beat! Thanks for the comment!
Youre lucky you didnt have to do any setup after installing the carb. My 196 will idle but under any load struggles to come up in rpms until about half throttle, will even stall, but if i can get it to half throttle then GOES
Sounds like a really lean condition right up until the main jet takes over. Is there any chance that the idle circuit in the carb might be plugged up with gunk?
@@wetcoastfab I ended up buying the VM 22 from Go Power sports. Slap that on and it runs like a champ. I think just the pilot jet is too small in that particular carb and I couldn't find another brand that would fit inside the carburetor
Remove the governers internal and external ...change the main jet to a 125 and change the gear ratio to 4 .1 or 3.1 you'll be flying trust me I been building these for a few years ..
No oil needed, however I do use a tiny bit on the outside dust filter. I live down in the south and we have alot of clay in our soil = dusty at times so it’s just safer to filter all you can .. engine life will love uou
Hey Mitch! I wanted to keep the option to go back to stock without having to modify the original cable. I plan on doing an engine comparison video soon with the carbs they come with. Thanks for the comment!
I could, but to do a proper job I'd have to open up the crank case and remove the gear inside. There's a couple fly weights that are driven off this gear that move the governor arm, and removing the governor arm doesn't really give them any resistance to push against any more. I'd worry that they could work their way loose at high rpms and damage the internals.
@@wetcoastfab It's not worth the effort unless you do an engine build and a major gearing change. There's nothing to gain pulling the governor as the bike is now.
That would be a waste of time. With a slide carb the governor can no longer function. The time to remove the internal governor parts is during an engine build. With his current setup there's no need to remove the governor. All these governor removal suggestions make me smile. I run my Coleman to more than 50 MPH at 5600 RPM with the governor and 100% stock linkage. Most guys do not know how adjustable the governor is.
I got the axis m200 I got the little kit too off Amazon what you’re doing and what did you do to the valve spring hole where the old tube went through.
Hey man, just wanted to say I really appreciate your videos. I just got my minibike and was looking to upgrade it and came across this video. Watched it step-by-step maybe 10-15 times.😂 I'm 13 and just got my first ever carburetor installed on my minibike. Thank you so much.❤
That's awesome! Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad my video helped you out! I've got more videos on these cool little minibikes coming up. Some practical changes, and honestly, some not so practical ;-)
Great can't wait@@wetcoastfab
They're not too big for a 196. You just need the jetting, a cam and gearing to support its full potential. That includes a billet rod and flywheel for safety. Gearing can be done with sprockets or Juggernaut/tork zilla driver.
From what I have seen from your other videos it looks like you may have had an issue with the stock carb to get only 31 mph then jump to 40 plus with the Mikuni style carb. There shouldn't be that big of a difference on a stock bike that is topping out at less than stock max governed RPM. Probably somewhere around 3400 RPM.
There's a good lesson here for everyone doing the same mods on the Coleman 200's. Don't waste your time removing the governor because you will not be able to get "ungoverned" RPM. Just keep the governor arm in position with a light spring until you can get ungoverned RPM with more engine and gearing. Any built 196 is more than capable of doing just that with the right gearing.
Governor removal should be done during the engine build, not before an engine build..
Love it! Some great information in there, thanks!
I have a 208 (212cc) engine that I'm putting on next and will be doing some more advanced mods to it - the same VM22 carb, upping the compression a bit, billet rod, billet flywheel, valve springs, etc, just to get a better idea of what a bit more compression and displacement will do.
I really appreciate your videos. That stock throttle linkage is way too complicated. I was messing around with it and never able to put it back quite correct. It got more peppy but theres not a lot of play anymore to go slow easily.
This looks to be the perfect upgrade to get rid of that whole linkage and gain some serious speed improvement at the same time.
Thank you for a clear and consise walk through.
Again, thank you for the feed back! Yeah, having that weird not-really-connected-to-the-carb-butterfly complicated linkage that comes on these engines makes it a lot easier to work on! I remind myself that these 6.5hp engines are really coming from agricultural origins where they're meant to run all day long at around 3600 rpm, driving pumps etc.
If you don't remove the internal governor actuation lever it will bounce against the crankshaft . Either remove it OR attach a small light spring on the outside linkage to pull it back towards the carb keeping tension on it so it won't bounce against the crankshaft inside . 😊
He did, at 8:45 you should have watched the video
So you need to remove the internal governor to properly install a vm22 carb?
@@christophermendoza2986 you should remove it since your not going to be hooking up that VM 22 to it and if you leave the plastic gear and the rest of the governor inside , eventually it's going to come apart and that's not good . This is the right way to CYA . ARC rod and billet flywheel are a good idea since no more governor means higher rpm's .
@@crippleguy415 so riding stock is not recommended? Better to buy a stage 2 kit at that point if I’m going to remove the governor
Awesome 👍 More great tips. Every minibike or dirtbike needs a fuel filter. Especially if you're stealing gas from Dad's rusty old lawnmower gas can. Cheers from Canada :-)
You're so right, Robin! I'm used to Honda products where there's automatically a fuel filter in the tank or just after the tank
The governor doesn't engage when it's not connected to the throttle cable.
I did the exact same thing as you. Bought through your affiliate links too.
Thanks a bunch man, that was a great walkthrough.
That's awesome, thank you so much for your support! I hoped the video helped you out!
@@wetcoastfab its faster than I expected. Id like to remove the governor and get an exhaust so its not melting the fender. Interested in the torque converter aspect as well.
Oh my God thank you for telling me where to put the damn governor on 😂 I finally found what I was looking for. Thank you buddy.
You're most welcome and I'm glad it helped you out! Thanks for the comment!
Valve springs are a must. if you want to rev to a point where the CVT becomes the limitation, you need to go beyond 4200rpm. 18lb valve springs will allow that. but you should look into a PVL flywheel or go full Billet Aluminium, both advance the ignition timing which gives more top end power, but at this point you want to open it up and fit a Billet Conrod, you could fit a 0.020" longer one if your piston allows, or even upgrade to a flat top piston for higher compression. the Hemi piston is a direct swap and the most cost effective swap but measure the piston height first if you go for a stock length rod then a 0.010" head gasket will work, if you end up with the piston flush with the top of the block you need a 27 to 45 thou gasket, and then there are literally dozens of different Camshafts from each supplier to choose from (my choice is the CM grind from Dyno cams... the hottest of the budget cams)
Love the feedback! I have a 10k aluminum flywheel to try out, with 26lb springs. I've also got a 0.020 longer conrod and high-compression piston to try out. I'll measure out the clearances first and if I can get 10 - 12:1 compression, I'll try 100 octane gas and see if she goes boom!
The stock valve springs are not the reason why it's not getting higher RPM. It's currently limited by gearing. Guys have experienced this for many years with the tall tire bikes. Even with your suggested engine build you'd be lucky to get to 4500 RPM. A gearing change is needed to take advantage of an engine build. The easiest gearing change for higher RPM is the Juggernaut or Tork-Zilla driver. 7.5:1 gearing is much better than 4.5:1 against a 19 inch tire.
@@wetcoastfab Easiest way to get 10:1 or more CR is with a 14cc head. A flatop and a plus 20 rod would still be under 10:1 with the stock 22cc head. A 14cc head, plus 20 rod, and flat top may get you more compression than you want or need.
I don’t know a whole bunch about carb.s but what has always worked for me is
Set the bike up on a block or something to free up back tire. Get it to crank, turn the high side ( bottom screw )out till the engine speeds up and sound smooths out
Leave it where the engine runs fastest!
Now turn the idler screw ( side of carb). Down until idles like u want it. 😊
It should perform real close
to what is expected!
Until you billet it! You should not need to re jet the czarb
Just need to tune it up !
I had a 95 # when stock!!
only till I put a cam in 😮I’m stage three ! At 58mph I still have a lil throttle left
just out of guts !
😮😂😊
Love it! Thanks for the feedback!
What size pilot jet did u use
Fantastic video friend. I'm sure that you helped a lot of people with it.
Summit racing has the vm22 the real deal mikuni carburetor. The pilot screws on the side as well as the idle screw and you can change out the jet on the side of the carburetor also
Love it Stephen, thanks! I might have to get one especially with some of the engines and engine upgrades I'm planning on playing around with
Thanks I really appreciate your videos👍🏼
Thanks! It means the world to get positive feedback like yours
Great video I have a coalman BT200X stock with governor still intact ! I bought this clone of Amazon with no extra jets give me 33 mph vs 19.5 stock
Love it! There's definite potential in these little mini bikes. I wonder how Coleman would feel about one doing 100mph?
So this carburetor will work on a 79cc as well ?
Hey good job, I'm not trying to Bragg but if you just start pipe it and zip tie the govener spring, remove the throat screw, take off air filter cover, it will go 41-44 mph
Sweet! Thanks! Maybe I overthink things too much ... wait for what I want to do on a future upgrade ;-)
I would add more teeth to your front sprocket or take some off the back. Good call on keeping the governor with this build. Much safer!
The stock flywheel on these things weighs about 2.4kg. If you want it to rev out more you can swap it out for a cast aluminum one (not necessarily billet). Mine cost $66 Australian (including shipping).
Thanks for the comment! In fact, I bought the cheapest 10k aluminum flywheel I could find on Amazon and plan to test it to its limits, perhaps to its destruction?
Thanks man, great tutorial
Thanks for the kind words!
Dude!!! Add a carb and hit 41 MPH??? AWESOME!!!!!!!
Bro thank you sm for this video I went thru every step you did had it on in bout an hr😂, this was my first time doing something like this by myself too
I'm stoked htat it helped you out, Austin! Congrats on doing it yourself!
Oh yea it does 52 mph now I got it adjusted right it was only doing 35-40 with the stock carb
That's amazing! And insanely fast!
very entertaining keep up the great work kudos to you my friend
Thanks for the kind words! It makes a world of difference!
What Clip & Jet changes were made?? Tks
Hey I got the same ride (bt200x) and I get 40 mph out of it and the only mods I've done is straight pipe, torque converter and disabled governor and I'm running stock carb
I have a stock bt200xg so same bike just black and green and i got it to 33.5 just by making a new return spring and and changing the throttle spring to a metal rod
Ps if you delete the jack shaft you loose torque but will hit around 50 mph all day long 💯🔥 just be careful on the factory wheels they balloon out a little bit
Yup, the soft springy tires on this thing make me nervous. I think when I get some more speed out of it, I'll look for some proper DOT tires that can handle it
@@wetcoastfab oh yea 50mph is definitely 5-10mph over what I would say is safe for those cheap tires 🤣
Your videos are well put together . But if you’re gonna remove the stock carb and install an after market , please remove the governor gear. You just left it dangling like that? Not my build but there’s youngsters watching you doing the same thing. Theres a lot of videos on how to do it but when you go into depth with the parts that u use and educate your audience , you get high value videos. I’m sorry , im not trying to hate . I’m slowly working my way into making videos on some cool builds and educate beginners so they dont make the same mistakes that i did. Keep working on your craft .
Thank you for the comments! No hate received, I 100% agree with you! I have planned out a video that will focus on the governor delete and how there's various ways of doing it based on the viewer's skill level from the simple 'delete' I did to a 'proper' removal.
Good job
Thanks Mike, I appreciate the kind words!
i always thought the needle is for 25-75 percent throttle, the main jet controls the wide open supply. if too rich at wide open, maybe a smaller main could fix it?
You're absolutely right! The needle is also tapered as well, so as it moves up with more throttle, the cross section of the main tube gets larger, feeding more fuel - dependant on the opening of the main jet hole, of course!
Dude mine is a base 196 hisun engine came with it I got just a cold air intake and a 1 inch pipe for exhaust maybe 1 foot long and I’m slow take off because no TC but I get up to 47mph top speed and I am 5 foot 10 weighing 320 pounds
I wonder if the bike I have is limited somehow for the Canadian market? Maybe I just have bum HiSun engine. Not to worry: an engine swap is coming!
The torq-a-verter has plenty of gearing, that being said, I have have great luck with installing a larger rear (+10 teeth) sprocket for acceleration. It did NOT seem to affect top speed.
what size Jet did you end up using in the carb
Great video ty!
Thank you for the kind words!
Tkanks
Most welcome!
I got the axis m200 I got the little kit too off Amazon what you’re doing and what did you do to the valve spring hole where the old tube went through.
Don’t know how useful a inline fuel filter is ??
There great, it also helps to keep moisture from making it into the engine. Try using it, after 5-10 gal just look and see!
If it jumps, moves ,wiggles, use a table when assembling, clips,&keeps! I say this because it took me getting frustrated enough for buying lost clips , jets, screws ! Anywho … save a screw use a table !
Dont know if anyone else seen it but when you removed the needle you dropped the nylon washer that goes under the e clip. If u look really close on the paper towel you will see
Good eye! Thanks for the feedback! I did in fact see that it dropped. I suspect I edited me picking it up out of the final video.
I have this bike and want to do the mods but in my mind the faster you go you still have to stop the brakes are junk what can one do to upgrade the brakes you still have to stop the bike
can u just use the old throttle handle bar just take out the throttle cable and put the new throttle cable into the handle bar?
make sure your fuel line is downhill all the way to your carb if you have trouble keeping it running
Do you have Engine Braking w / torque converter?? Ths
Hey Mark! It does, as long as the engine RPM doesn't drop below a certain RPM (almost idle actually) as you're decelerating
So I have that same bike and the stock muffler burnt through the mounting bolts and fell off so bought exhaust like what u have and rode it around and muffler tip burnt off then bought another and same thing happened…what is causing this?
How do you change the jet , and what size did you put? I just ordered the same carburetor today!
Same just did right now also looking for info
how do you change the jet??
I took off my throttle spring it gose 73
Question
do u need a license for a mini bike? I have the same bike
Nice set up there, do you think that it will work on a stock Honda GX160 engine? I really would like to make mine run a bit better. Mine gets held back by the governor, if I have to remove the governor so be it. Thanks. I forgot to mention, I bought a stage1 kit for it but it didn't work due to running rich and I even smelled it in my oil so I had to change the oil too.
It might be too much carb for that size of engine; you'd have a hard time getting the jetting figured out. Gas smell in the oil is bad for sure! Thanks for the feedback!
What jet sizes are you running
It varies depending on the elevation where he lives versus where you live. Yours might not be the same as his. But he could go up or down a size at his location and see if he gets better performance.
Buy a juggernaut clutch driver from go power sport doesnt slip the belt and increase speed and power and you can change the springs out on the torque converter to get more torque and speed or just change the gear on the cvt and the rear sprocket
I'll check it out, thanks for the feedback!
Wa happens if I zip tie the gov arm foward
What's the length of that throttle cable that you picked up?
Remember that adding this new carb removes the governor, so be careful with the rpms!
I'm going to get a billet flywheel and hopefully that keeps things safe (ish)
@@wetcoastfab upgraded rod as well if you're turning 6k+, I've got a cast flywheel to 5100 and that's as far as I felt comfortable with but to each their own
What rpm is unsafe with stock flywheel do ya think?? U think 3700-4000 is to much on stock parts? Maybe a dumb question but was jus wondering thx..reason I ask is it looked like that what he was at at 41mph?
@@BH-Bugs I've turned my 79cc to 5100 bone stock, and it held together just fine. I know the parts are a little different, but the quality is quite similar. Head over to childish concepts online store, they have 212 clone flywheels for just 39.95. I just bought one yesterday.
wtf ru talking about
Hey i got a new carb for my bt200x and my bike wont start with out starting fluid and when it does i have to keep giving gas or it will die out i have tried the screw thingy on it
Sounds like pilot circuit dumping fuel
Hey just wondering, my bike doesn’t do great at high rpm’s and i can’t ride it without always having clutch up, what should I do?
What happens at high RPM? Does the bike backfire and stumble or does it not have any power?
Could you do the governor arm into the drilled hole you made if if you have a removed governor?
Where can I find the cheapest 212 engine? I saw one for 119 from Harbor freight in one of your videos. It’s $160 now😂😢
I think you have to keep an eye on the sales! I've seen them as low as $99. Check for online coupons too!
You gotta remove the governor tho it’s so worth it
I plan to! I want to get a billet flywheel first before I push it too much farther
I put a curbator on a b200 Coleman but every time I rev it ,it turns off why ??
Pilot circuit. Pilot jet too small possibly.
What rpm was u running at when u whr at 42mph do u remember by chance was it around 3700 or maybe i seen wrong
It was about 3,700 yes. I didn't get much past 3,800 during my testing. Billet flywheel next!
Next time try adjusting the Air/fuel mixture screw vs taking out the entire needle
So I upgraded my carburetor on my DX with the vm22 but now when I started it wants to take off right away do I need to get to torque converter cuz right now I have just the chain and jackshaft
Take off the air filter (if you've installed it) and have a look at the slide with the throttle closed all the way. You should have almost no gap at all between the slide and the carb body. If you do at fully closed throttle, you may not have enough cable length or need to adjust the cable. Let me know!
@wetcoastfab ok u wouldn't have a video on it?
If you look in that video around 13:30 or so, you'll see where I have the throttle slide stuck open about half-way. Then go to around 15:20 and you'll see the way the throttle should be all the way closed. Let me know if that's clear enough.
@wetcoastfab ok i think that might be the issue thank you
I use a 115 jet in my kt196.
This one is a 100 with the needle on the lowest clip position; probably a bit too rich but I'll mess with tuning more in a future video.
Hi , a year later, your BT200x is still working with this cab ? nothing broke inside the engine ? Thank you!
It is! In fact, last weekend I took the BT200X deep into the mountains to record some more footage for an upcoming video, and it didn't miss a beat! Thanks for the comment!
cool , do you have a video on how to tune that carb? thank you !! :) @@wetcoastfab
Youre lucky you didnt have to do any setup after installing the carb. My 196 will idle but under any load struggles to come up in rpms until about half throttle, will even stall, but if i can get it to half throttle then GOES
Sounds like a really lean condition right up until the main jet takes over. Is there any chance that the idle circuit in the carb might be plugged up with gunk?
@@wetcoastfab I ended up buying the VM 22 from Go Power sports. Slap that on and it runs like a champ. I think just the pilot jet is too small in that particular carb and I couldn't find another brand that would fit inside the carburetor
Remove the governers internal and external ...change the main jet to a 125 and change the gear ratio to 4 .1 or 3.1 you'll be flying trust me I been building these for a few years ..
Add billet parts like piston rod and flywheel for longevity of the engine.
Will this fit a 224 predator?
It should! I'm pretty certain that the carb on the 196cc, 212cc and 224 are all the same. The carb can handle the extra displacement no problem.
That air filter need oil, right?
I don't think so - I've not read anything in the instructions. I do have a '68 VW Beetle that has an oil-bath filter though! :-)
No oil needed, however I do use a tiny bit on the outside dust filter. I live down in the south and we have alot of clay in our soil = dusty at times so it’s just safer to filter all you can .. engine life will love uou
Can I add this carburetor to a 79cc ?
I think that it might be a bit too much carb for that displacement. You'd most likely need one with a smaller Venturi
@@wetcoastfab ok I will wait once daughter gets use to stock motor then get her a 212cc with this carb
Soo let's get a total what you spent so far? So we know😮😮😮😊.
He didn’t even tune it
Just send it!
Why did you buy a whole new throttle? All u had to do was put a tip on end of original cable and just buy a new cable
Hey Mitch! I wanted to keep the option to go back to stock without having to modify the original cable. I plan on doing an engine comparison video soon with the carbs they come with. Thanks for the comment!
Something wrong with his old carb. I can't see that big of a jump in speed.
Yup, the more I mess with tuning this engine, the more convinced I became that the carb was faulty from the factory.
Put 125 jet
Can u. Just take the governer arm off
I could, but to do a proper job I'd have to open up the crank case and remove the gear inside. There's a couple fly weights that are driven off this gear that move the governor arm, and removing the governor arm doesn't really give them any resistance to push against any more. I'd worry that they could work their way loose at high rpms and damage the internals.
Bro change the main jet in the carburetor it won’t work that great unless you do
I did end up doing that and went to a 100 jet in the VM22
It is a waste of time if you do not remove the governor and oil sensor.
With the slide carb the governor can no longer function. And the engines that come on the Coleman bikes do not have an oil sensor.
all u really had to do was to neutralize the gov...that alone would have got you to the same 41 mph...
It’s pointless to try to make a mini bike faster using a governor at all just do away with it
That's the plan!
@@wetcoastfab It's not worth the effort unless you do an engine build and a major gearing change. There's nothing to gain pulling the governor as the bike is now.
@@Deucealive75 Thanks for the tips! I'm going to source some different sprockets and mess around with the gear ratios
@@wetcoastfabwhat size jets did you replace the factory pilot and main ones with?
Take the gov. Out
That would be a waste of time. With a slide carb the governor can no longer function. The time to remove the internal governor parts is during an engine build. With his current setup there's no need to remove the governor.
All these governor removal suggestions make me smile. I run my Coleman to more than 50 MPH at 5600 RPM with the governor and 100% stock linkage. Most guys do not know how adjustable the governor is.
I got the axis m200 I got the little kit too off Amazon what you’re doing and what did you do to the valve spring hole where the old tube went through.