Et voilà! J'ai très bien réussi le changement des mes lames et c'est la première fois que je fais ça! Done! I've successfully changed my blades and it's a first for me! Thanks again!
Mike, that was a tremendous video. I purchased an old jointer many years ago and have struggled with setting the knives ever since - no fancy adjustments on mine - just like yours. Tried everything, including hours on you tube, magnetic alignment products, old tips from old hands - nothing worked. Set my blades tonight using your method and the jointer works like a charm. Made one minor change to the process, I used a small block of wood since it moved cleaner with the blades, and I marked it with a knife to get a very accurate start point, then measured the distance traveled with a dial caliper. After measuring it was just a case of getting the wood to travel the distance set on the lowest reading of the caliper - I swear it's accurate to a fraction of a mill. Thanks man, your video just gave me a jointer and saved my sanity.
Man, thank you for the video. I thought I had to manually move the knife up or down, but wasn't 100%. Now I can finally get this old hunk of metal spinning.
I bought one just like that new in 1976. Your technique for setting the knives is quite creative and should produce good results. I learned to set the knives off a pair of bar magnets on the outfeed table, just overhanging tdc of the cutter head. To finalize the setting, I would lay a sheet of typing paper on the outfeed table and run a large, fine stone across the paper, barely touching the running knives. Our shop teacher in grade 12 taught us how to do it. As long as the kerf is no more than 1/16", it will work. Over the years I went from the Rockwell to a General 6" and on to a General 8". The magnets still reside under its outfeed table.
Super explanation. no frills, and perfectly clear. Thanks. I have an Axminster machine (UK) spring loaded underneath the knife, so may need to set differently, but all good to see how to do this. First time for me.
@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.
I've watched this video before, but I just wasn't hearin' what you were sayin'. This time it all made sense. I totally understood what you were doing. I think I missed some things that I caught this time. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Mike. Your mention of the way the bolts loosen and tighten was very helpful. Getting ready to change my blades and you saved the job from turning into a nightmare. I guarantee they would have been broken or stripped. I have watched many videos before attempting it and yours is the only one that said anything about it.
Excellent information. The straightedge technique and advice about the right-angle pick are very important. I was able to set up the knives accurately and easily on the same model jointer. Thanks.
My jointer is probably as old as yours! I've heard of that technique and it's the first time I see it. And it's well explain (and clear)! Thank for your work!
Loved your video. I'm currently setting up an old craftsman myself and this was a very helpful video. Haven't read through any of the other comments but wanted to share one little thing I figured out for getting the blades balance to the same point. Tried adjusting by hand and kept going too far or not enough. Have one side at 3 and couldn't get the other to match. Then I realized that all I had to do was take the blade to the point where it would be at 3 and put some gentle pressure down on the straight edge which made it set at 3. That easily balanced both sides. Just thought I would share.
Great video! I just picked up a Rockwell Model 6 yesterday, which has the same blade arrangement. Haven't been able to find a manual, so every little bit of info helps - and this helps a lot.
I used to spend Saturday mornings once a month doing the same thing which in fact is the old-school way. Many years ago I upgraded to a Tersa heads on my machines.
Mate! Cheerz so much for this information. Bought a 2nd hand jointer with blades removed. Truely thank you for this as I would’ve not done it this way at all. Cheerz from down under NZ
Thanks! My new blades sat for 2 weeks before I attempted. Really helpful closeups and explanation. I marked 1/8 inch gap on the straightedge of a shin and used that as my gauge, but I love your metric ruler. Getting one. Thanks!!!!!!
Appreciate this video. I have just restored on old 50's jointer that was the "table top" version of yours. Blades are at the sharpeners now and then it is complete.
Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.
As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.
I came looking for how to fasten the blades. So it just relies on the screws being tightened sufficiently to hold them in. That's what it looks like on mine, so just a confirmation. I like the great job you have done on restoring that machine, very clear camera and not a speck of sawdust to be seen.
Interesting way to set knives il give it a try.on the screws if you back then all the way out an replaced the flats will be in a different spot to grab with a wrench
Used this method to set up a 6" jointer. It worked well, but still takes ages to do. Most often I tapped the blades too hard and had to start again. The relationship between holding the blade just tight enough with the bolt and tapping it to get accurate adjustments takes practice. One blade wouldn't set right on the inside edge. I worked to 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) and it all came together in the end. This will take time. Thanks for the video.
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.
thanks for the info. this whole process has to be one of the hardest things a craftsman can do. but ill admit if you think this process will be 100%, guess again. like all older models you better be prepared for non perfection. do the best you can. and move on. the old wood workers where artist in their time, and could come close to perfection using this equipment, every day of their good ole lives.
I just bought a similar jointer today at auction, looks to be from the 50's, and has the same type of blades. Been messing with it all night and finally came in to look over the videos and found this, thx! So once I have all the blades parallel, I think I have to raise the out table bc I get some snipe. thx!
I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!
you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp
Yup, they're pretty basic machines that didn't change for a long time. Effectually they figured out that the fence design wasn't ideal and improved that.
+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.
Hey Mike, Thanks for the video. I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-} I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?) Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it? Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears
Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind. Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!
Hey Mike, So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this? I can send photos if anyone wants/needs? This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)
Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!
Great post and upload. I'm rotating my blades and have never been gold with machinery although forced to when blades hit a few nails from old recycled timber. It's been that long I cannot find the instruction papers and accessories. I have a leda or similar. It's a planer thicknesser. The standard blades are not really good quality. I guess it's to reduce cost of machine. In saying that the machines handles thick and heavy timber with ease. I'm very pleased with the machine as it's my second machine. The first machine I bought was not quite powerful enough for what I was using the machine for. So I traded. A few things on the machine could have been made better like plastic turn handles that already split and fell apart. The guide rail is aluminium and not easy pulling out to swap from planer to thickneeser. Like I said I'm not good with machinery and was cursing just pulling the planer cover to change to thicknessing. I also didn't buy a long enough hose for the vacuum so it gets a little in the way when running timber for thicknessing. I put both vacuum and machine on a board with wheels so I can move. The wheels have locking clamps and has been stable to not move. Thanks for the video. I will attempt to set the three blades so I can prepare some more wood today.
Hello again Mike. I looked at the photos you mentioned. I cleaned up everything connected to the hand wheels on the in feed and out feed side. The wheels move but were very tight; I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. I read another comment were you told Tom to disassemble the mallet. Is the mallet the part that the long screw goes that is attached to the handle and exit the side of the table and has the lock screw on it? Thanks for your help Mike.
I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.
Not a dumb question at all! I got it from Lee Valley. It's called a Stop Rule (I took the stop off to do this). Others have pointed out that a stick of hardwood with a few lines cut into it with a marking knife will work just as well, or a normal rules taped to a stick of hardwood so it stands up.
The knives should be left higher than the out feed table because the wood compresses as it is being cut, if you set them at the same height of the out feed table it will not work right.
@@mikeschmitz8355 at 5:50 in the video you said you need to crank the table up because the knives were higher than the out feed table, that is why I left the comment, other than that you did a great job explaining how it is done.
I like it. I'm new to planers and don't know what to look for other than everything being evenly set. Should i set the outfeed table level with the knives? Yours is obviously lower here. Cheers
I know this video is old.......but thanks for the nice instructions. this is my last try.....if i cant fix it ...its going in the trash...........Thank you again......just one question..what was your starting point ? At the first cutting setting ?
The starting point doesn't matter, just put the knives in and measure them all, then go for a number that's convenient. Adjust the outfeed table afterwards.
hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck! Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.
Okay, so you only have one video. And it's a golden one. You should make more =) I will go and check my factory setup for my new robland later today. Will test with your guide. I guess the important thing is that the numbers match for each blade. If the table were to be lowered or raised, i guess that would make the numbers go up and down to. Like if your table was lowered the numbers would get higher due to the blade catching earlier and make it travel a greater distance. How do you set the height of the receiving table? By barely making it touch the straight edge?
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it! Yes the outfeed table should be a tiny bit below the height of the knives. The straight edge should just barely be disturbed by the knives, but not enough to actually pull it noticeably.
I have a very similar old Craftsman jointer and a knicked blade, so I will be trying this method soon. Thank you for the clever solution .
Good luck, hope it goes smoothly for you.
Your method is so simple and easy to adapt to other jointers. Thank you.
This is the best, and most clear explanation I've seen on how to do this. Thanks
Conall Stapleton
I just picked up this same jointer. Glad to see these old tools in use. This video was very helpful in dialing it in.
Trying to set new knives in my grandpa's exact same jointer. Thanks for the precision in your tutorial!
That's cool that you're working on your grandpa's jointer. I love machines with history!
Thank you for sharing this method, I have tried it and got very good results from my old jointer, far better than any other jigs I have tried.
Et voilà! J'ai très bien réussi le changement des mes lames et c'est la première fois que je fais ça! Done! I've successfully changed my blades and it's a first for me! Thanks again!
Excellent, glad to hear it helped you out!
Mike, that was a tremendous video. I purchased an old jointer many years ago and have struggled with setting the knives ever since - no fancy adjustments on mine - just like yours. Tried everything, including hours on you tube, magnetic alignment products, old tips from old hands - nothing worked. Set my blades tonight using your method and the jointer works like a charm. Made one minor change to the process, I used a small block of wood since it moved cleaner with the blades, and I marked it with a knife to get a very accurate start point, then measured the distance traveled with a dial caliper. After measuring it was just a case of getting the wood to travel the distance set on the lowest reading of the caliper - I swear it's accurate to a fraction of a mill. Thanks man, your video just gave me a jointer and saved my sanity.
John Evans that's great to hear John, thanks for taking the time to write that up. I really enjoy knowing that this is helping people out!
Really good explanation.I just bought a planer which needs to be setup and this video has saved me a lot of phonecalls and internet searches
Good tip about using the tape and numbers.And its all about taking your time .
Agreed. Instead of rushing to do this in ten minutes, spend twenty and get it perfect, save yourself an hour of frustration later.
Man, thank you for the video. I thought I had to manually move the knife up or down, but wasn't 100%. Now I can finally get this old hunk of metal spinning.
Did you get it sorted?
This video was a lifesaver. I had kinda gotten to this solution, but your exact method made it much more clear.
I have a very similar Rockwell.
Good video. Would like to see more about sharpening the blades and setting up the joiner.
Thanks!
I bought one just like that new in 1976. Your technique for setting the knives is quite creative and should produce good results. I learned to set the knives off a pair of bar magnets on the outfeed table, just overhanging tdc of the cutter head. To finalize the setting, I would lay a sheet of typing paper on the outfeed table and run a large, fine stone across the paper, barely touching the running knives. Our shop teacher in grade 12 taught us how to do it. As long as the kerf is no more than 1/16", it will work. Over the years I went from the Rockwell to a General 6" and on to a General 8". The magnets still reside under its outfeed table.
Super explanation. no frills, and perfectly clear. Thanks. I have an Axminster machine (UK) spring loaded underneath the knife, so may need to set differently, but all good to see how to do this. First time for me.
I've never used a machine with springs but I imagine the measuring technique here would work just the same. Good luck with your setup!
@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.
I've watched this video before, but I just wasn't hearin' what you were sayin'. This time it all made sense. I totally understood what you were doing. I think I missed some things that I caught this time. Thanks for the video.
Glad to hear it. Hope it helps you dial your machine in!
Great video. Thank you very much for the helping me straighten out my jointer blades. It is cutting nicer today than ever before.
Pete McNichols - that's awesome! Glad it helped.
Thanks Mike. Your mention of the way the bolts loosen and tighten was very helpful. Getting ready to change my blades and you saved the job from turning into a nightmare. I guarantee they would have been broken or stripped. I have watched many videos before attempting it and yours is the only one that said anything about it.
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
Excellent information. The straightedge technique and advice about the right-angle pick are very important. I was able to set up the knives accurately and easily on the same model jointer. Thanks.
I'm glad it helped you out Robert!
Best manual setting ever. Thx bro.
Very welcome, glad you liked it.
You did a good job in explaining the procedure.
just purchased a Delta from the 1940's. Thanks for the video!
Awesome, enjoy your new (old) machine!
My jointer is probably as old as yours! I've heard of that technique and it's the first time I see it. And it's well explain (and clear)! Thank for your work!
je vous en prie!
Loved your video. I'm currently setting up an old craftsman myself and this was a very helpful video. Haven't read through any of the other comments but wanted to share one little thing I figured out for getting the blades balance to the same point. Tried adjusting by hand and kept going too far or not enough. Have one side at 3 and couldn't get the other to match. Then I realized that all I had to do was take the blade to the point where it would be at 3 and put some gentle pressure down on the straight edge which made it set at 3. That easily balanced both sides. Just thought I would share.
Nice tip! I'd be wary of pushing down against the knife blade but done gently it'd be fine.
Great video! I just picked up a Rockwell Model 6 yesterday, which has the same blade arrangement. Haven't been able to find a manual, so every little bit of info helps - and this helps a lot.
Very good how too video. Thanks for taking the time to help us with a difficult setup
My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.
My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.
Thanks Mike great explination I need to reset my old jointer blades this has being a great help
this tutorial saved my ass, was 3/16'' from one end to the other, no wonder why my jointer was jointing like crap!
3/16ths? Wow that's **really** uneven. Yeah I bet it works better now!
Thanks I've been looking for how set knives on my old jointer finally I found someone to help
Thank you for doing this video. I found one of my two knives was way too low. Correcting it made a huge difference! Keep up the great work!
Thanks, glad to hear it helped you out!
I used to spend Saturday mornings once a month doing the same thing which in fact is the old-school way. Many years ago I upgraded to a Tersa heads on my machines.
Great video! I always dread setting my knives on my jointer! Simplified
Mate! Cheerz so much for this information. Bought a 2nd hand jointer with blades removed. Truely thank you for this as I would’ve not done it this way at all. Cheerz from down under NZ
Glad it helped, cheers back to you from Canada!
Exactly what I was looking for and needed to know!
Thank you sir!!
Thanks! My new blades sat for 2 weeks before I attempted. Really helpful closeups and explanation. I marked 1/8 inch gap on the straightedge of a shin and used that as my gauge, but I love your metric ruler. Getting one. Thanks!!!!!!
Shim, not shin. Ouch.
Thank you very much for perfect explanation
Thank you for doing this video. just got the used one, You make me happy how to replace the knifes.Thank you!
That's great, enjoy your new jointer!
Appreciate this video. I have just restored on old 50's jointer that was the "table top" version of yours. Blades are at the sharpeners now and then it is complete.
Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.
As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.
that should work well. Good luck!
@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.
Exactly what I needed to know, appreciate the video. Working on a 4inch atlas power king that needs new blades
I was searching for jointer knife setup and had to sub after seeing your name.
Ha, hi there!
Hey, Mike! Thanks for sharing it! It's just what I needed to see to help me out on changing the blades of my old jointer next time. All the best!
You're welcome, glad it helped. All the best!
WOW thank you! I just got new knifes for my small jointer that was given to me by my father in law and was wondering the best way to do this.
A well presented video, this has been made very clear, thanks.
Great idea great instructions. I will use this as a final check when replacing my blades too
Let me know how it works out for you!
I came looking for how to fasten the blades. So it just relies on the screws being tightened sufficiently to hold them in. That's what it looks like on mine, so just a confirmation. I like the great job you have done on restoring that machine, very clear camera and not a speck of sawdust to be seen.
Thank you for the video. Really helped me out.
Interesting way to set knives il give it a try.on the screws if you back then all the way out an replaced the flats will be in a different spot to grab with a wrench
Thank you! I have set them thousand times but never measured like you did that is one great idea thank you one more time ! CHEERS
You're very welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks Mike. Unfortunately I read your post after the fact. I will start a thread somewhere like lumberjocks as you mention. Thanks for your help
Yeah I found that out the hard way. loosen to tighten . I'll never forget that now
Used this method to set up a 6" jointer. It worked well, but still takes ages to do. Most often I tapped the blades too hard and had to start again. The relationship between holding the blade just tight enough with the bolt and tapping it to get accurate adjustments takes practice. One blade wouldn't set right on the inside edge. I worked to 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) and it all came together in the end. This will take time. Thanks for the video.
Yeah getting a feel for how hard to tap or pry is definitely a part of this, and will really affect how long it takes. Glad you got there in the end!
This is the same way I set mine. very good job. But when setting one end you do have to make sure you don't do a seesaw effect on the other end.
Yes you have to check after making adjustments. I showed that and discussed how to loosen the jib screws properly in the video.
Excellent video. Ive seen the use of a straight edge like this before but never using the masking tape and pic to help. Thanks for posting!
Great job. you made it easy
Thanks for the video this was the best explanation I could find and made so much sense! My jointer was wayyyy offf before haha!!!!
Cheers Joe, thanks for leaving a note. I love seeing that it's helping people!
Thanks Mike. I recently acquired an old Beaver 3800 from 1950 and I was wondering how the heck I was supposed to set the knives. :)
Very helpful, very easy, thank you
Thanks for the post Mike, I have been fighting with my blades for a while. I am hoping the "pick" idea helps me out.
Any luck with it?
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Winston Jamir Instablaster =)
@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Bobby Walter It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
great video thanks i just got a old crafstmaster 6 inch jointer and this video helped alot thanks man
Great video, thank you 🤜🤛
That's awesome mike! I'm messing around with a craftsman from the 50s that needs a lot of work. This is going to help a lot.
The straight edge wide enough to stand upright is the real key. Good luck!
This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.
Thomas Lowry that's a good idea. You need the ruler to be heavy too, so maybe clamp a strip of wood all along it that the knives can bite into?
Great video, thank you
thanks for the info. this whole process has to be one of the hardest things a craftsman can do. but ill admit if you think this process will be 100%, guess again. like all older models you better be prepared for non perfection. do the best you can. and move on. the old wood workers where artist in their time, and could come close to perfection using this equipment, every day of their good ole lives.
Same for me, great video, thanks a lot 👍👍👍
I just bought a similar jointer today at auction, looks to be from the 50's, and has the same type of blades.
Been messing with it all night and finally came in to look over the videos and found this, thx!
So once I have all the blades parallel, I think I have to raise the out table bc I get some snipe. thx!
Joshua Lyon let me know if you have questions. good luck!
I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!
you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp
thx!
This video was fantastic. Thanks. I bought a jointer pal but had horrid results out of it.
Hey thanks for the feedback, I love knowing that it's helping people out!
@@mikeschmitz8355 My jointer is running great now. Thanks again!!
Simply genius! Thanks man!
Thank you, I hope it serves you well!
Great demostration, Thank you
Thanks, I have a 7 inch Harbor Frieght Jointer. The measureing from both sides seems like a no-brainer. After you suggested it LOL!
Glad you found it helpful!
Very useful instructions--thank you!
To the point and clear directions. Hope you're an instructor. If not, you should consider it....
J K thanks! Perhaps in retirement. I don't think woodworking instruction pays as well as software!
I just got 1 of these from a family friend. The date of manufacture is 1982. Exactly the same.
Yup, they're pretty basic machines that didn't change for a long time. Effectually they figured out that the fence design wasn't ideal and improved that.
Thanks I am trying to figure out how to do this, Very glad I watched this video, great video and craftsman skills!!!
thanks Marty. happy jointing!
This is helpful! I appreciate it, thanks.
Just what I needed. Thanks!
gonna give this method a try. I have an old walker Turner that I'm trying to get back into operation. thanks
+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.
Hey Mike, Thanks for the video.
I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-}
I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?)
Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it?
Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears
Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind.
Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!
Hey Mike,
So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this?
I can send photos if anyone wants/needs?
This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)
Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!
Great post and upload. I'm rotating my blades and have never been gold with machinery although forced to when blades hit a few nails from old recycled timber. It's been that long I cannot find the instruction papers and accessories. I have a leda or similar. It's a planer thicknesser. The standard blades are not really good quality. I guess it's to reduce cost of machine. In saying that the machines handles thick and heavy timber with ease. I'm very pleased with the machine as it's my second machine. The first machine I bought was not quite powerful enough for what I was using the machine for. So I traded. A few things on the machine could have been made better like plastic turn handles that already split and fell apart. The guide rail is aluminium and not easy pulling out to swap from planer to thickneeser. Like I said I'm not good with machinery and was cursing just pulling the planer cover to change to thicknessing.
I also didn't buy a long enough hose for the vacuum so it gets a little in the way when running timber for thicknessing.
I put both vacuum and machine on a board with wheels so I can move. The wheels have locking clamps and has been stable to not move. Thanks for the video. I will attempt to set the three blades so I can prepare some more wood today.
Thanks you are the best!
great tip with the tape! thanks
Really good I like that!
Hello again Mike. I looked at the photos you mentioned. I cleaned up everything connected to the hand wheels on the in feed and out feed side. The wheels move but were very tight; I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. I read another comment were you told Tom to disassemble the mallet. Is the mallet the part that the long screw goes that is attached to the handle and exit the side of the table and has the lock screw on it? Thanks for your help Mike.
I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.
This is great. Very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you - great explanation! Do you have a video on changing the spring in the guard?
Gracias por la información...muy precisa
very informative and no bs, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Muchas gracias por compartir
Excellent
Dumb question but Mike could you tell us where you picked up your ruler.
Not a dumb question at all! I got it from Lee Valley. It's called a Stop Rule (I took the stop off to do this). Others have pointed out that a stick of hardwood with a few lines cut into it with a marking knife will work just as well, or a normal rules taped to a stick of hardwood so it stands up.
Exelente explicación
Very nice job!
I am going to have to change my knives for the first time very soon :-(
Good luck. Hit me up if you have questions. Happy to help.
Thanks! I might just do that.
Good job 👍😉
Thank you!!!!
👍 👍👍👏👏👏🙋♂️Curitiba/PR/Brazil 🇧🇷 🇺🇸
👍
The knives should be left higher than the out feed table because the wood compresses as it is being cut, if you set them at the same height of the out feed table it will not work right.
Yes I agree, that's what I said in the video. I didn't give the reasoning for it, but I did say it should be a hair lower than the knives.
@@mikeschmitz8355 at 5:50 in the video you said you need to crank the table up because the knives were higher than the out feed table, that is why I left the comment, other than that you did a great job explaining how it is done.
I like it. I'm new to planers and don't know what to look for other than everything being evenly set. Should i set the outfeed table level with the knives? Yours is obviously lower here. Cheers
I address that question near the end of the video.
Good tip, any link from where one can buy a ruler like that pls?
It's called a stop rule from Lee Valley. The stop has been removed for this task. Or just tape a stick to a regular ruler so it stands up.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Thanks mate
I know this video is old.......but thanks for the nice instructions. this is my last try.....if i cant fix it ...its going in the trash...........Thank you again......just one question..what was your starting point ? At the first cutting setting ?
The starting point doesn't matter, just put the knives in and measure them all, then go for a number that's convenient. Adjust the outfeed table afterwards.
Mike would you have a video on how to remove the infeed and out feed tables on the 37-220 jointer
hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck!
Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.
Mike. Thanks you for your response. I will give it a try. Thank you again.
Okay, so you only have one video. And it's a golden one. You should make more =) I will go and check my factory setup for my new robland later today. Will test with your guide. I guess the important thing is that the numbers match for each blade. If the table were to be lowered or raised, i guess that would make the numbers go up and down to. Like if your table was lowered the numbers would get higher due to the blade catching earlier and make it travel a greater distance.
How do you set the height of the receiving table? By barely making it touch the straight edge?
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it! Yes the outfeed table should be a tiny bit below the height of the knives. The straight edge should just barely be disturbed by the knives, but not enough to actually pull it noticeably.
Nice video,thanks:-)