Mike, that was a tremendous video. I purchased an old jointer many years ago and have struggled with setting the knives ever since - no fancy adjustments on mine - just like yours. Tried everything, including hours on you tube, magnetic alignment products, old tips from old hands - nothing worked. Set my blades tonight using your method and the jointer works like a charm. Made one minor change to the process, I used a small block of wood since it moved cleaner with the blades, and I marked it with a knife to get a very accurate start point, then measured the distance traveled with a dial caliper. After measuring it was just a case of getting the wood to travel the distance set on the lowest reading of the caliper - I swear it's accurate to a fraction of a mill. Thanks man, your video just gave me a jointer and saved my sanity.
Thanks Mike. Your mention of the way the bolts loosen and tighten was very helpful. Getting ready to change my blades and you saved the job from turning into a nightmare. I guarantee they would have been broken or stripped. I have watched many videos before attempting it and yours is the only one that said anything about it.
I've watched this video before, but I just wasn't hearin' what you were sayin'. This time it all made sense. I totally understood what you were doing. I think I missed some things that I caught this time. Thanks for the video.
I bought one just like that new in 1976. Your technique for setting the knives is quite creative and should produce good results. I learned to set the knives off a pair of bar magnets on the outfeed table, just overhanging tdc of the cutter head. To finalize the setting, I would lay a sheet of typing paper on the outfeed table and run a large, fine stone across the paper, barely touching the running knives. Our shop teacher in grade 12 taught us how to do it. As long as the kerf is no more than 1/16", it will work. Over the years I went from the Rockwell to a General 6" and on to a General 8". The magnets still reside under its outfeed table.
Super explanation. no frills, and perfectly clear. Thanks. I have an Axminster machine (UK) spring loaded underneath the knife, so may need to set differently, but all good to see how to do this. First time for me.
@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.
Man, thank you for the video. I thought I had to manually move the knife up or down, but wasn't 100%. Now I can finally get this old hunk of metal spinning.
Excellent information. The straightedge technique and advice about the right-angle pick are very important. I was able to set up the knives accurately and easily on the same model jointer. Thanks.
Mate! Cheerz so much for this information. Bought a 2nd hand jointer with blades removed. Truely thank you for this as I would’ve not done it this way at all. Cheerz from down under NZ
My jointer is probably as old as yours! I've heard of that technique and it's the first time I see it. And it's well explain (and clear)! Thank for your work!
Loved your video. I'm currently setting up an old craftsman myself and this was a very helpful video. Haven't read through any of the other comments but wanted to share one little thing I figured out for getting the blades balance to the same point. Tried adjusting by hand and kept going too far or not enough. Have one side at 3 and couldn't get the other to match. Then I realized that all I had to do was take the blade to the point where it would be at 3 and put some gentle pressure down on the straight edge which made it set at 3. That easily balanced both sides. Just thought I would share.
Great video! I just picked up a Rockwell Model 6 yesterday, which has the same blade arrangement. Haven't been able to find a manual, so every little bit of info helps - and this helps a lot.
Thanks! My new blades sat for 2 weeks before I attempted. Really helpful closeups and explanation. I marked 1/8 inch gap on the straightedge of a shin and used that as my gauge, but I love your metric ruler. Getting one. Thanks!!!!!!
Et voilà! J'ai très bien réussi le changement des mes lames et c'est la première fois que je fais ça! Done! I've successfully changed my blades and it's a first for me! Thanks again!
Appreciate this video. I have just restored on old 50's jointer that was the "table top" version of yours. Blades are at the sharpeners now and then it is complete.
Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.
As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.
This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I just bought a similar jointer today at auction, looks to be from the 50's, and has the same type of blades. Been messing with it all night and finally came in to look over the videos and found this, thx! So once I have all the blades parallel, I think I have to raise the out table bc I get some snipe. thx!
I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!
you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp
I used to spend Saturday mornings once a month doing the same thing which in fact is the old-school way. Many years ago I upgraded to a Tersa heads on my machines.
I came looking for how to fasten the blades. So it just relies on the screws being tightened sufficiently to hold them in. That's what it looks like on mine, so just a confirmation. I like the great job you have done on restoring that machine, very clear camera and not a speck of sawdust to be seen.
Used this method to set up a 6" jointer. It worked well, but still takes ages to do. Most often I tapped the blades too hard and had to start again. The relationship between holding the blade just tight enough with the bolt and tapping it to get accurate adjustments takes practice. One blade wouldn't set right on the inside edge. I worked to 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) and it all came together in the end. This will take time. Thanks for the video.
Interesting way to set knives il give it a try.on the screws if you back then all the way out an replaced the flats will be in a different spot to grab with a wrench
It doesn't matter, as long as they're all the same. I wish I had mentioned that in the video. When you're done you set the outfeed height to erase any difference in height. Pick a number that's most common on your initial measurements.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I looked into it a bit more and you’re right, it’s to do with the outfeed height. So for machines without outfeed adjustment you’d want the knife to be the same height as the outfeed table.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I guess a better question would have been how do you calculate how high you raise your outfeed so that it is a hair below the knives?
Hello again Mike. I looked at the photos you mentioned. I cleaned up everything connected to the hand wheels on the in feed and out feed side. The wheels move but were very tight; I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. I read another comment were you told Tom to disassemble the mallet. Is the mallet the part that the long screw goes that is attached to the handle and exit the side of the table and has the lock screw on it? Thanks for your help Mike.
I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.
First, it's impossible to tell the difference between zero and -1 or -5mm. It needs to be a positive drag to measure it. Second, you actually want the outfeed a couple thou lower than the blades. It's counter intuitive but testing bears it out. The guys at woodgears.ca did an explanation on it once. That said, after I'm done with a 7mm drag I raise the outfeed a little.
thanks for the info. this whole process has to be one of the hardest things a craftsman can do. but ill admit if you think this process will be 100%, guess again. like all older models you better be prepared for non perfection. do the best you can. and move on. the old wood workers where artist in their time, and could come close to perfection using this equipment, every day of their good ole lives.
+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.
Hey Mike, Thanks for the video. I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-} I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?) Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it? Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears
Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind. Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!
Hey Mike, So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this? I can send photos if anyone wants/needs? This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)
Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!
hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck! Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.
Hi Mike very good explaination very good clear image video i have exactly the sa me jointer and i'm planning To remove infeed and outfeed table to have thé left handle repair would you have some tricks for me thanks
Great post and upload. I'm rotating my blades and have never been gold with machinery although forced to when blades hit a few nails from old recycled timber. It's been that long I cannot find the instruction papers and accessories. I have a leda or similar. It's a planer thicknesser. The standard blades are not really good quality. I guess it's to reduce cost of machine. In saying that the machines handles thick and heavy timber with ease. I'm very pleased with the machine as it's my second machine. The first machine I bought was not quite powerful enough for what I was using the machine for. So I traded. A few things on the machine could have been made better like plastic turn handles that already split and fell apart. The guide rail is aluminium and not easy pulling out to swap from planer to thickneeser. Like I said I'm not good with machinery and was cursing just pulling the planer cover to change to thicknessing. I also didn't buy a long enough hose for the vacuum so it gets a little in the way when running timber for thicknessing. I put both vacuum and machine on a board with wheels so I can move. The wheels have locking clamps and has been stable to not move. Thanks for the video. I will attempt to set the three blades so I can prepare some more wood today.
I like it. I'm new to planers and don't know what to look for other than everything being evenly set. Should i set the outfeed table level with the knives? Yours is obviously lower here. Cheers
Hey Mike, question. Most of your video is really excellent. I might be missing something here but, where does the outfeed table need to be set? I understand how you are doing your measurement and adjustment but where does that outfeed table height need to be set to get your initial measurements?
Yeah that's something I skipped over. I crank the outfeed down just a hair before I start. The actual number is fairly irrelevant, they just need to be all the same.
@@mikeschmitz8355 gotcha, so if i set a bigger square on the table and then just crank the outfeed table down until i start seeing a light gap between the straight edge and the outfeed table towards the blade side then that should be good. I did find a manual for my walker-turner jointer, so hopefully this will go fairly quickly. Thanks again for your reply.
@@wesleymckenzie7375 yes if the knives are already mounted then crank the table down enough to get a straight edge to drag 5 to 10mm on one of them. Then adjust all the rest to that level. Then raise the table again. Note that despite all rationale to the contrary, you actually want the table a hair lower than the blades. I don't know why, but woodgears.ca concurs, as do my test boards.
Hey Mike, do you recall where you got new jib screw made? Mine are manageable but are definitely stripped more than I'd like, I'd rather act proactively than have a situation somewhere down the line. Thanks for the video!
Not a dumb question at all! I got it from Lee Valley. It's called a Stop Rule (I took the stop off to do this). Others have pointed out that a stick of hardwood with a few lines cut into it with a marking knife will work just as well, or a normal rules taped to a stick of hardwood so it stands up.
37-280 infeed table is not paralel to plane of outfeed. It responds almost as if the rear pivot arm is shorter than the forward swing arm. Can this be adjusted? Also, the knife grind angle appears to be 37 degrees. Is that the reason why this machine is labeled with "37" ? Tyia for any pertinent info. Enjoy every day.
If you disassemble the dovetail ways you can shim to attain coplanar tables. Always shim the outfeed as you'll move it less often. I used aluminum strips cut from a beer can.
'@that's not my name too' Thanks for your input, but shimming outfeed doesn't negate the 'cam'-like effect of a slanted infeed. [disclaimer] this post could easily be perceived as snarky but is instead simply put, and the address was lighthearted. I like the 'C. E. ' socks also.
I will attempt to make a non-rare magnetic block(s) to assist my 'old' knife resetting. Then I will attempt to sharpen the knives whith a dremel tool, with router base, using whatever flat bottomed stone bits seem most ideal. Then I will probably reset those blades and hone them in place with the only sharpening stone, all be it, not too flat, I have available to me. And when/if there be snipe, this time, they won't be hard to find! I would cut them off ,and burn them to ash!! Then I will just grab the orbital and jitterbug,( delta thickness planer { these are abandoned tools, not my personal} knives are jacked and planer itself seems to have major issues) and grind away the luster of the cedar just as the windows of the soul become hazy and dim when truth and freedom's edges, even conscience, are allowed to be distorted and no longer crisp and in true hue. - This Guy Just fyi, my conscience is clear, just didn't want readers to lose sleep trying to recall the author of the above literary work. Joy in Life.
Your method is so simple and easy to adapt to other jointers. Thank you.
I just picked up this same jointer. Glad to see these old tools in use. This video was very helpful in dialing it in.
This is the best, and most clear explanation I've seen on how to do this. Thanks
Conall Stapleton
Mike, that was a tremendous video. I purchased an old jointer many years ago and have struggled with setting the knives ever since - no fancy adjustments on mine - just like yours. Tried everything, including hours on you tube, magnetic alignment products, old tips from old hands - nothing worked. Set my blades tonight using your method and the jointer works like a charm. Made one minor change to the process, I used a small block of wood since it moved cleaner with the blades, and I marked it with a knife to get a very accurate start point, then measured the distance traveled with a dial caliper. After measuring it was just a case of getting the wood to travel the distance set on the lowest reading of the caliper - I swear it's accurate to a fraction of a mill. Thanks man, your video just gave me a jointer and saved my sanity.
John Evans that's great to hear John, thanks for taking the time to write that up. I really enjoy knowing that this is helping people out!
Straight to the point, clear and understandable.
Thank you for sharing this method, I have tried it and got very good results from my old jointer, far better than any other jigs I have tried.
Trying to set new knives in my grandpa's exact same jointer. Thanks for the precision in your tutorial!
That's cool that you're working on your grandpa's jointer. I love machines with history!
I have a very similar old Craftsman jointer and a knicked blade, so I will be trying this method soon. Thank you for the clever solution .
Good luck, hope it goes smoothly for you.
Thanks Mike. Your mention of the way the bolts loosen and tighten was very helpful. Getting ready to change my blades and you saved the job from turning into a nightmare. I guarantee they would have been broken or stripped. I have watched many videos before attempting it and yours is the only one that said anything about it.
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
Really good explanation.I just bought a planer which needs to be setup and this video has saved me a lot of phonecalls and internet searches
This video was a lifesaver. I had kinda gotten to this solution, but your exact method made it much more clear.
I have a very similar Rockwell.
Good video. Would like to see more about sharpening the blades and setting up the joiner.
Thanks!
I've watched this video before, but I just wasn't hearin' what you were sayin'. This time it all made sense. I totally understood what you were doing. I think I missed some things that I caught this time. Thanks for the video.
Glad to hear it. Hope it helps you dial your machine in!
I bought one just like that new in 1976. Your technique for setting the knives is quite creative and should produce good results. I learned to set the knives off a pair of bar magnets on the outfeed table, just overhanging tdc of the cutter head. To finalize the setting, I would lay a sheet of typing paper on the outfeed table and run a large, fine stone across the paper, barely touching the running knives. Our shop teacher in grade 12 taught us how to do it. As long as the kerf is no more than 1/16", it will work. Over the years I went from the Rockwell to a General 6" and on to a General 8". The magnets still reside under its outfeed table.
Super explanation. no frills, and perfectly clear. Thanks. I have an Axminster machine (UK) spring loaded underneath the knife, so may need to set differently, but all good to see how to do this. First time for me.
I've never used a machine with springs but I imagine the measuring technique here would work just the same. Good luck with your setup!
@@mikeschmitz8355 As you say, the measuring will be exactly the same, just setting the blades will be different. I don't know how strong the springs are, I will find out when the blades arrive in the post I guess.
Wow. Thank you. First time I changed the knives. Works perfect.
@@TM62588 great to hear!
Man, thank you for the video. I thought I had to manually move the knife up or down, but wasn't 100%. Now I can finally get this old hunk of metal spinning.
Did you get it sorted?
Excellent information. The straightedge technique and advice about the right-angle pick are very important. I was able to set up the knives accurately and easily on the same model jointer. Thanks.
I'm glad it helped you out Robert!
Mate! Cheerz so much for this information. Bought a 2nd hand jointer with blades removed. Truely thank you for this as I would’ve not done it this way at all. Cheerz from down under NZ
Glad it helped, cheers back to you from Canada!
My jointer is probably as old as yours! I've heard of that technique and it's the first time I see it. And it's well explain (and clear)! Thank for your work!
je vous en prie!
Loved your video. I'm currently setting up an old craftsman myself and this was a very helpful video. Haven't read through any of the other comments but wanted to share one little thing I figured out for getting the blades balance to the same point. Tried adjusting by hand and kept going too far or not enough. Have one side at 3 and couldn't get the other to match. Then I realized that all I had to do was take the blade to the point where it would be at 3 and put some gentle pressure down on the straight edge which made it set at 3. That easily balanced both sides. Just thought I would share.
Nice tip! I'd be wary of pushing down against the knife blade but done gently it'd be fine.
You did a good job in explaining the procedure.
Best manual setting ever. Thx bro.
Very welcome, glad you liked it.
Great video! I just picked up a Rockwell Model 6 yesterday, which has the same blade arrangement. Haven't been able to find a manual, so every little bit of info helps - and this helps a lot.
Hey, Mike! Thanks for sharing it! It's just what I needed to see to help me out on changing the blades of my old jointer next time. All the best!
You're welcome, glad it helped. All the best!
Thanks Mike great explination I need to reset my old jointer blades this has being a great help
Exactly what I was looking for and needed to know!
Thank you sir!!
Great video. Thank you very much for the helping me straighten out my jointer blades. It is cutting nicer today than ever before.
Pete McNichols - that's awesome! Glad it helped.
Thanks I've been looking for how set knives on my old jointer finally I found someone to help
Thanks! My new blades sat for 2 weeks before I attempted. Really helpful closeups and explanation. I marked 1/8 inch gap on the straightedge of a shin and used that as my gauge, but I love your metric ruler. Getting one. Thanks!!!!!!
Shim, not shin. Ouch.
Et voilà! J'ai très bien réussi le changement des mes lames et c'est la première fois que je fais ça! Done! I've successfully changed my blades and it's a first for me! Thanks again!
Excellent, glad to hear it helped you out!
Thank you for doing this video. I found one of my two knives was way too low. Correcting it made a huge difference! Keep up the great work!
Thanks, glad to hear it helped you out!
Great video! I always dread setting my knives on my jointer! Simplified
Very good how too video. Thanks for taking the time to help us with a difficult setup
My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.
My pleasure. thanks for leaving a comment, I always enjoy getting feedback.
Appreciate this video. I have just restored on old 50's jointer that was the "table top" version of yours. Blades are at the sharpeners now and then it is complete.
Glad you liked it! What did you use for the straightedge? It was suggested elsewhere that a normal ruler fixed to a nice square stick would probably work, but I've never tried it.
As I have just finished restoring it I have not ever adjusted the blades before. I think I have a 2mm thick piece of aluminium in the workshop that I will mark the millimeters on.
that should work well. Good luck!
@@mikeschmitz8355 Hi Mike, this popped up in my feed after all these years. To answer your question accurately I have a stainless steel metric rule that is able to stand on its edge. Works like a charm.
Good tip about using the tape and numbers.And its all about taking your time .
Agreed. Instead of rushing to do this in ten minutes, spend twenty and get it perfect, save yourself an hour of frustration later.
Thank you for doing this video. just got the used one, You make me happy how to replace the knifes.Thank you!
That's great, enjoy your new jointer!
A well presented video, this has been made very clear, thanks.
Thank you for the video. Really helped me out.
just purchased a Delta from the 1940's. Thanks for the video!
Awesome, enjoy your new (old) machine!
great video thanks i just got a old crafstmaster 6 inch jointer and this video helped alot thanks man
WOW thank you! I just got new knifes for my small jointer that was given to me by my father in law and was wondering the best way to do this.
this tutorial saved my ass, was 3/16'' from one end to the other, no wonder why my jointer was jointing like crap!
3/16ths? Wow that's **really** uneven. Yeah I bet it works better now!
Exactly what I needed to know, appreciate the video. Working on a 4inch atlas power king that needs new blades
I was searching for jointer knife setup and had to sub after seeing your name.
Ha, hi there!
Thank you very much for perfect explanation
Great idea great instructions. I will use this as a final check when replacing my blades too
Let me know how it works out for you!
That's awesome mike! I'm messing around with a craftsman from the 50s that needs a lot of work. This is going to help a lot.
The straight edge wide enough to stand upright is the real key. Good luck!
This video is great. Going to try this method today. In the past for other applications, I've used a spring clamp to clamp a small block of wood to a steel ruler to keep the ruler standing up on its edge.
Thomas Lowry that's a good idea. You need the ruler to be heavy too, so maybe clamp a strip of wood all along it that the knives can bite into?
Thanks for the video this was the best explanation I could find and made so much sense! My jointer was wayyyy offf before haha!!!!
Cheers Joe, thanks for leaving a note. I love seeing that it's helping people!
Excellent video. Ive seen the use of a straight edge like this before but never using the masking tape and pic to help. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the post Mike, I have been fighting with my blades for a while. I am hoping the "pick" idea helps me out.
Any luck with it?
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Winston Jamir Instablaster =)
@Bobby Walter i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Bobby Walter It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
I just bought a similar jointer today at auction, looks to be from the 50's, and has the same type of blades.
Been messing with it all night and finally came in to look over the videos and found this, thx!
So once I have all the blades parallel, I think I have to raise the out table bc I get some snipe. thx!
Joshua Lyon let me know if you have questions. good luck!
I will, thx, my jointer is real bare bones and only minimal adj for the feed side and the out side. I will have to get cute with the tables being co-planed bc all there is on either side is a 45deg raise and lower..whats your e-mail? great job!
you can reach me right here, I usually respond fairly quickly (was away for the last week). There were no adustments for making the tables coplanar on mine either. I had to shim the dovetail ways with strips I cut from an aluminum pop can (that's a soda can if you're American). You can see a little bit of what I did here: imgur.com/a/rgwSp
thx!
Great job. you made it easy
Great video, thank you 🤜🤛
Very helpful, very easy, thank you
Simply genius! Thanks man!
Thank you, I hope it serves you well!
Thanks from Germany
Thanks Mike. I recently acquired an old Beaver 3800 from 1950 and I was wondering how the heck I was supposed to set the knives. :)
Thanks I am trying to figure out how to do this, Very glad I watched this video, great video and craftsman skills!!!
thanks Marty. happy jointing!
Thank you - great explanation! Do you have a video on changing the spring in the guard?
Very useful instructions--thank you!
I used to spend Saturday mornings once a month doing the same thing which in fact is the old-school way. Many years ago I upgraded to a Tersa heads on my machines.
Thank you! I have set them thousand times but never measured like you did that is one great idea thank you one more time ! CHEERS
You're very welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
Great video, thank you
I came looking for how to fasten the blades. So it just relies on the screws being tightened sufficiently to hold them in. That's what it looks like on mine, so just a confirmation. I like the great job you have done on restoring that machine, very clear camera and not a speck of sawdust to be seen.
Great demostration, Thank you
This video was fantastic. Thanks. I bought a jointer pal but had horrid results out of it.
Hey thanks for the feedback, I love knowing that it's helping people out!
@@mikeschmitz8355 My jointer is running great now. Thanks again!!
Used this method to set up a 6" jointer. It worked well, but still takes ages to do. Most often I tapped the blades too hard and had to start again. The relationship between holding the blade just tight enough with the bolt and tapping it to get accurate adjustments takes practice. One blade wouldn't set right on the inside edge. I worked to 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) and it all came together in the end. This will take time. Thanks for the video.
Yeah getting a feel for how hard to tap or pry is definitely a part of this, and will really affect how long it takes. Glad you got there in the end!
Just what I needed. Thanks!
Thanks Mike. Unfortunately I read your post after the fact. I will start a thread somewhere like lumberjocks as you mention. Thanks for your help
Same for me, great video, thanks a lot 👍👍👍
Yeah I found that out the hard way. loosen to tighten . I'll never forget that now
Thanks, I have a 7 inch Harbor Frieght Jointer. The measureing from both sides seems like a no-brainer. After you suggested it LOL!
Glad you found it helpful!
This is the same way I set mine. very good job. But when setting one end you do have to make sure you don't do a seesaw effect on the other end.
Yes you have to check after making adjustments. I showed that and discussed how to loosen the jib screws properly in the video.
Interesting way to set knives il give it a try.on the screws if you back then all the way out an replaced the flats will be in a different spot to grab with a wrench
This is helpful! I appreciate it, thanks.
Such a good tutorial. How do you decide how many mm you want to drag the straight edge?
It doesn't matter, as long as they're all the same. I wish I had mentioned that in the video. When you're done you set the outfeed height to erase any difference in height. Pick a number that's most common on your initial measurements.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I looked into it a bit more and you’re right, it’s to do with the outfeed height. So for machines without outfeed adjustment you’d want the knife to be the same height as the outfeed table.
@@freestyla101 yes, in theory. In practice you want the knives a tiny hair above. I don't understand why but it works better that way.
@@mikeschmitz8355 I guess a better question would have been how do you calculate how high you raise your outfeed so that it is a hair below the knives?
Thanks you are the best!
great tip with the tape! thanks
Good tip, any link from where one can buy a ruler like that pls?
It's called a stop rule from Lee Valley. The stop has been removed for this task. Or just tape a stick to a regular ruler so it stands up.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Thanks mate
Really good I like that!
Hello again Mike. I looked at the photos you mentioned. I cleaned up everything connected to the hand wheels on the in feed and out feed side. The wheels move but were very tight; I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. I read another comment were you told Tom to disassemble the mallet. Is the mallet the part that the long screw goes that is attached to the handle and exit the side of the table and has the lock screw on it? Thanks for your help Mike.
I was telling Tom to disassemble the tables and mechanisms and then to use a mallet to get them moving. Your tables are stuck too? If so do not force the adjustment wheels as Tom did. Instead you take apart the adjusters. Take the wheel off its axle by loosening the set screw. From there you can thread the axle out of the base.
Hello. Very good explanation. Question: why you dont want the drag to be 0?
First, it's impossible to tell the difference between zero and -1 or -5mm. It needs to be a positive drag to measure it.
Second, you actually want the outfeed a couple thou lower than the blades. It's counter intuitive but testing bears it out. The guys at woodgears.ca did an explanation on it once.
That said, after I'm done with a 7mm drag I raise the outfeed a little.
🤔. So, after tou raise the outfeed how much is the drag? Thanks in advance
thanks for the info. this whole process has to be one of the hardest things a craftsman can do. but ill admit if you think this process will be 100%, guess again. like all older models you better be prepared for non perfection. do the best you can. and move on. the old wood workers where artist in their time, and could come close to perfection using this equipment, every day of their good ole lives.
To the point and clear directions. Hope you're an instructor. If not, you should consider it....
J K thanks! Perhaps in retirement. I don't think woodworking instruction pays as well as software!
gonna give this method a try. I have an old walker Turner that I'm trying to get back into operation. thanks
+Benjamin Parker Good luck, hope it's useful on your machine. Watch out for stripped gib screws on the old machines. It's extremely common and a real PITA.
Hey Mike, Thanks for the video.
I have never owned a jointer until now. I had no idea that the jib screws loosened clockwise (I'm guessing that is what you were referring to). If I didn't watch your video my jointer gib nuts/threads would end up striped just like the ones that you mentioned ;-}
I just bought a Astro International" 6" that looks very similar to yours. Same fence style, 2 table adjustment wheels at front. I did a test cut on the top face of a 3-1/4" piece of Oak hardwood flooring yesterday and it was rough. bouncing a lot, terrible finish. I will check out the knives for uniformity using your method. When I did a cut on the side, the cut was actually nice other than a 1-1/2" long by 1/8" deep snipe at the end of the board (Funny because the table was high not low?)
Another problem is the out-feed table. it's pretty much seized up, i.e. if I apply any more pressure trying to turn the wheel I'm worried that I break something. I am going to try to spray some wd-40 and use a small wire brush to attempt to clean of the treads. Here's hopin'. This is especially important since the co-plane is out by about 1/8" (I'm getting gauges this week to test more accurately). Basically the table is sagging at both ends. So from what I gather, and which makes sense I should adjust the out-feed to get the table the same height and than shim it?
Again thanks for the video, and if you or anyone has any pointers for new/old guy. I'm all ears
Hi Tom, yeah I'd strongly recommend full dis-assembly to clean out the dovetail ways that the tables ride on. There will probably be some set screws that you remove to get them apart. If the outfeed is seized, don't use the screw adjust to break it loose. Remove everything and then whack it with a mallet until it starts to move, probably using ample penetrating lube of some kind.
Then you have it right: shim the outfeed to get coplanar. you adjust that one way less, so the shims will stay put. Good luck!
Hey Mike,
So... more troubles. I sprayed the outfeed table adjustment wheel threads, but it was still extremely stiff? So I continued to turn it by hand slowly but with a great deal of pressure, I figured something (gunk) had to give. It sure dd ---- ***crack**** a piece of the mechanism that the threaded adjustment rod travels through snapped off. Can I buy a new (old) part for this?
I can send photos if anyone wants/needs?
This just keeps getting better and better (I brought it on myself though)
Sorry but that's why I suggested disassembly and a mallet. The mechanism isn't going to be strong enough for that purpose. I have no idea about replacement parts I'm afraid. try an expert's site like lumberjocks. Good luck!
Mike would you have a video on how to remove the infeed and out feed tables on the 37-220 jointer
hi Ernesto, I don't have a video like that, but the trick is to loosen the set-screws that you'll find near the sliding dovetail ways of the machine on both sides, and to fully disassemble the raise/lower mechanisms. I took the tables off by lifting them UP, not by sliding them down. Good luck!
Edit: the 4th picture in this album clearly shows the allen-key set screws I'm talking about: imgur.com/a/rgwSp. There's 5 in the pic: 2 on the left, 3 on the right. In the 6th picture there's a closup of a shim I put in. You can see the little bar that "floats" in the dovetail way too. This is the bar that the set screws tension. Loosening the screws may cause that bar to fall out. Collect it and mark its orientation for reinstallation.
Mike. Thanks you for your response. I will give it a try. Thank you again.
Good job 👍😉
Hi Mike very good explaination very good clear image video i have exactly the sa me jointer and i'm planning To remove infeed and outfeed table to have thé left handle repair would you have some tricks for me thanks
The biggest thing about disassembly was getting the big ass nuts off beneath the tables. Tricky to get a regular wrench into that space. Good luck!
Thanks for answering black 👍
Great post and upload. I'm rotating my blades and have never been gold with machinery although forced to when blades hit a few nails from old recycled timber. It's been that long I cannot find the instruction papers and accessories. I have a leda or similar. It's a planer thicknesser. The standard blades are not really good quality. I guess it's to reduce cost of machine. In saying that the machines handles thick and heavy timber with ease. I'm very pleased with the machine as it's my second machine. The first machine I bought was not quite powerful enough for what I was using the machine for. So I traded. A few things on the machine could have been made better like plastic turn handles that already split and fell apart. The guide rail is aluminium and not easy pulling out to swap from planer to thickneeser. Like I said I'm not good with machinery and was cursing just pulling the planer cover to change to thicknessing.
I also didn't buy a long enough hose for the vacuum so it gets a little in the way when running timber for thicknessing.
I put both vacuum and machine on a board with wheels so I can move. The wheels have locking clamps and has been stable to not move. Thanks for the video. I will attempt to set the three blades so I can prepare some more wood today.
I like it. I'm new to planers and don't know what to look for other than everything being evenly set. Should i set the outfeed table level with the knives? Yours is obviously lower here. Cheers
I address that question near the end of the video.
Hey Mike, question. Most of your video is really excellent. I might be missing something here but, where does the outfeed table need to be set? I understand how you are doing your measurement and adjustment but where does that outfeed table height need to be set to get your initial measurements?
Yeah that's something I skipped over. I crank the outfeed down just a hair before I start. The actual number is fairly irrelevant, they just need to be all the same.
@@mikeschmitz8355 gotcha, so if i set a bigger square on the table and then just crank the outfeed table down until i start seeing a light gap between the straight edge and the outfeed table towards the blade side then that should be good. I did find a manual for my walker-turner jointer, so hopefully this will go fairly quickly. Thanks again for your reply.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Thank you. That's what i was thinking.
@@wesleymckenzie7375 yes if the knives are already mounted then crank the table down enough to get a straight edge to drag 5 to 10mm on one of them. Then adjust all the rest to that level. Then raise the table again. Note that despite all rationale to the contrary, you actually want the table a hair lower than the blades. I don't know why, but woodgears.ca concurs, as do my test boards.
@@mikeschmitz8355 Perfect. Thanks much. It's gonna have to wait though, apparently i have to go away for work tomorrow.
Hey Mike, do you recall where you got new jib screw made? Mine are manageable but are definitely stripped more than I'd like, I'd rather act proactively than have a situation somewhere down the line. Thanks for the video!
Oh it was ages ago and I paid a guy to machine some new jibs for me using standard screws. Contacted him on www.owwm.org I think.
This is great. Very helpful. Thanks!
Muchas gracias por compartir
Excellent
Dumb question but Mike could you tell us where you picked up your ruler.
Not a dumb question at all! I got it from Lee Valley. It's called a Stop Rule (I took the stop off to do this). Others have pointed out that a stick of hardwood with a few lines cut into it with a marking knife will work just as well, or a normal rules taped to a stick of hardwood so it stands up.
37-280 infeed table is not paralel to plane of outfeed. It responds almost as if the rear pivot arm is shorter than the forward swing arm. Can this be adjusted? Also, the knife grind angle appears to be 37 degrees. Is that the reason why this machine is labeled with "37" ? Tyia for any pertinent info. Enjoy every day.
If you disassemble the dovetail ways you can shim to attain coplanar tables. Always shim the outfeed as you'll move it less often. I used aluminum strips cut from a beer can.
'@that's not my name too' Thanks for your input, but shimming outfeed doesn't negate the 'cam'-like effect of a slanted infeed.
[disclaimer] this post could easily be perceived as snarky but is instead simply put, and the address was lighthearted. I like the 'C. E. ' socks also.
I will attempt to make a non-rare magnetic block(s) to assist my 'old' knife resetting. Then I will attempt to sharpen the knives whith a dremel tool, with router base, using whatever flat bottomed stone bits seem most ideal. Then I will probably reset those blades and hone them in place with the only sharpening stone, all be it, not too flat, I have available to me. And when/if there be snipe, this time, they won't be hard to find! I would cut them off ,and burn them to ash!! Then I will just grab the orbital and jitterbug,( delta thickness planer { these are abandoned tools, not my personal} knives are jacked and planer itself seems to have major issues) and grind away the luster of the cedar just as the windows of the soul become hazy and dim when truth and freedom's edges, even conscience, are allowed to be distorted and no longer crisp and in true hue. - This Guy
Just fyi, my conscience is clear, just didn't want readers to lose sleep trying to recall the author of the above literary work. Joy in Life.
Gracias por la información...muy precisa
Exelente explicación