Upstart Deep Pour Epoxy 👉www.upstartepoxy.com/products/deep-pour-epoxy-resin/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube Upstart Tabletop Epoxy 👉 www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
I’m new to epoxy. Done maybe 5 projects so far but I have thought endlessly about this and noting every step during a project. I think it’s important to also note if you use a 24hr epoxy the timing is different than like a superclear 2-4” which is like a 36 hour set up epoxy. With that said I think you have to first pick your epoxy and get to know it. For ex. I noticed with superclear 2-4” if I pour 1 1/8” thick at 72 degrees the perfect time to keep a close eye is around 17-20 hours. If it’s thinner then that time is closer to the 20 hour mark. It’s my theory that If I keep doing that and noting thicknesses and outside temp that I’ll eventually not have to watch it for 12 hours like a hawk and come in for 2-3 hours and catch it in that last 45 min before it’s too thick to swirl.
I VOTE FOR SWIRLING !!!👍👍👍👍 i love the luminousince( cant spell that word) ive been wanting to try with a small one. very talented and the wood is beautiful
I started making resin pendants using wood and epoxy. The pours are under 2” and it’s almost impossible to get swirls especially in my cold shop. The pigments will swirl but a few minutes later they disappear and sink to the bottom. You need a warm shop and an epoxy that lends itself to swirling and lots of patience.
Thanks Steve, in addition to swirls do you have any tips to help keep colors separated. I saw a few quick examples in this video, but could you share any tips for doing mukti-color pours with minimal bleed between the colors? Thank you
Awesome! I like both. Thank you for sharing those tips. I am really leaning towards trying out your deep pour epoxy. But I have to admit that I've heard that it produces a lot of bubbles. If I can extend the cure time, will that help with the bubbles? Please don't misunderstand me, I've not heard one bad thing about Upstart. Just wondering.
Hey Steve! Appreciate the kind words 😃 To answer your question - you cannot alter the cure time. If you let it cure in really low temperatures, this would make it harder for the air bubbles to come out. Hope this helps!
Hi there! 😊 I'm pretty new to this field, but I was wondering if someone could explain how they created that lava or bubbling effect at 2:18 in the video (the one with the blue board). I'm not sure what to call it, but it looks really interesting! Thanks! :) Stay inspired!
I've done many epoxy projects and that lava effect that you are talking about is a totally natural effect of the resin as it cures. That effect is a result of puring the epoxy and then not touching it and just letting it cure on its own. It will heat up and cause that lava effect. Personally, I do not like that look at all. When I first started, I used to see that in my projects because I would just pour and then wait for it to harden. It wasn't until I learned to swirl that I finally got rid of that look and now I always add some sort of pattern to my projects. Steve (in the video) is correct in that to get a good swirl effect (or any effect for that matter), you need to let it cure until the disturbance you create in the mica stays on top and does not sink to the bottom. When the consistency is between honey and peanut butter is the perfect time so the mica doesn't sink after you put your pattern in it.
Hi, I have an epoxy that became jelly after 12h at 20c °, I want use 3 different colours, what is the best way for swirls? use basic color and after 12h put the other 2 colours? or put all together and don move for 12h? ( but mica don t go on the floor?)....THK...table 3cm
Here's some helpful tips if you are getting mica bubbles while stirring! 1. Stirring Technique Gentle Stirring: Stirring too vigorously or too fast can introduce air bubbles into the mixture. It's important to stir slowly and gently. Aim for a consistent, slow mix to evenly distribute the mica without creating too many bubbles. Tool Choice: Use a flat stirring stick rather than something with a lot of surface area that can trap air, as this can help reduce the amount of air mixed into the epoxy. 2. Timing Mica Addition Timing: Adding mica powder either too early before the epoxy components are thoroughly mixed, or too late when the epoxy has started to thicken, can affect bubble formation. Ideally, you should first mix the epoxy resin and hardener until they are fully blended and then add the mica powder. Mixing Duration: Ensure you're not mixing for too long. Once the epoxy and hardener are mixed thoroughly (usually a few minutes is sufficient), and then the mica is incorporated, additional stirring should be minimized to avoid introducing more air. 3. Mica Mixing Method Pre-Mixing Mica: Some crafters find success in pre-mixing mica powder with a small amount of epoxy resin to create a "slurry" before adding it to the larger batch of resin. This can help reduce bubbles as the mica is already suspended in the resin when added to the main mix. Sifting Mica: To prevent clumps that can trap air, sift your mica powder into the resin. This ensures a smoother mix and can help reduce bubbles. 4. Bubble Removal After Mixing Use of Heat: After pouring your resin, use a heat gun or torch (carefully) to pop the bubbles. 5. Environmental Factors Temperature: Epoxy resin mixes better and degasses better at warmer temperatures. Working in a too cold environment can make the resin thicker, making it harder to mix smoothly and more prone to trapping air bubbles. You might not be stirring too early or too late, but the method of stirring and how the mica is incorporated can significantly affect bubble formation. We hope this helps! If you have more questions feel free to reach out to customer service on our website at www.upstartepoxy.com//?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube. Thanks for watching!
A lot of it depends on the expoy you use (and there are many out there). I use Super Clear table top epoxy and when I do a shallow pour (like 1/8 inch) it only takes about 20 minutes to firm up to a point where I can add swirls and they will stay without sinking. After about 30 minutes its too firm to mess with, so there definitely is a sweet spot where you just have to watch and experiment until you get it just right.
When you are trying to swirl or color separate, it’s better to pour small amounts lightly into the molds throughout every temperature. What does change is the thickness as it gets hotter. Which causes the colors not to run as quickly allowing you time to add other colors and they won't blend together so easily. That's where you get your color separation.
Usually when we wait until its a thicker consistency we can do the swirls while minimizng bubbles. And you're totally right! Warming the resin absolutely helps before pouring -- that was our main tip our "Do THIS to ensure perfect flood coats" video. :)
Definitely swirl. Sometimes it’s hard to be there at just the right time. It’s like babysitting a newborn! They’re not doing anything-UNTIL THEY DO AND YOU BETTER BE THERE!
The folks that don't swirl are the same people who order hamburgers cooked well done. You don't need that kind of psychopath in your life. If they ask how many swirls are you going to put in, you say ALL OF THEM.
Upstart Deep Pour Epoxy 👉www.upstartepoxy.com/products/deep-pour-epoxy-resin/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
Upstart Tabletop Epoxy 👉 www.upstartepoxy.com/products/epoxy-resin-table-top/?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube
Would love to see a video about swirling with your art resin in smaller pours!!
Added this to our list!
I’m new to epoxy. Done maybe 5 projects so far but I have thought endlessly about this and noting every step during a project. I think it’s important to also note if you use a 24hr epoxy the timing is different than like a superclear 2-4” which is like a 36 hour set up epoxy. With that said I think you have to first pick your epoxy and get to know it. For ex. I noticed with superclear 2-4” if I pour 1 1/8” thick at 72 degrees the perfect time to keep a close eye is around 17-20 hours. If it’s thinner then that time is closer to the 20 hour mark. It’s my theory that If I keep doing that and noting thicknesses and outside temp that I’ll eventually not have to watch it for 12 hours like a hawk and come in for 2-3 hours and catch it in that last 45 min before it’s too thick to swirl.
I VOTE FOR SWIRLING !!!👍👍👍👍 i love the luminousince( cant spell that word) ive been wanting to try with a small one. very talented and the wood is beautiful
Awesome video!!! 🔥
I started making resin pendants using wood and epoxy. The pours are under 2” and it’s almost impossible to get swirls especially in my cold shop. The pigments will swirl but a few minutes later they disappear and sink to the bottom. You need a warm shop and an epoxy that lends itself to swirling and lots of patience.
Thanks Steve, in addition to swirls do you have any tips to help keep colors separated. I saw a few quick examples in this video, but could you share any tips for doing mukti-color pours with minimal bleed between the colors?
Thank you
Your work is so beautiful
Thank you!
Awesome! I like both. Thank you for sharing those tips. I am really leaning towards trying out your deep pour epoxy. But I have to admit that I've heard that it produces a lot of bubbles. If I can extend the cure time, will that help with the bubbles? Please don't misunderstand me, I've not heard one bad thing about Upstart. Just wondering.
Hey Steve! Appreciate the kind words 😃
To answer your question - you cannot alter the cure time. If you let it cure in really low temperatures, this would make it harder for the air bubbles to come out. Hope this helps!
Hi there! 😊 I'm pretty new to this field, but I was wondering if someone could explain how they created that lava or bubbling effect at 2:18 in the video (the one with the blue board). I'm not sure what to call it, but it looks really interesting! Thanks! :) Stay inspired!
I've done many epoxy projects and that lava effect that you are talking about is a totally natural effect of the resin as it cures. That effect is a result of puring the epoxy and then not touching it and just letting it cure on its own. It will heat up and cause that lava effect. Personally, I do not like that look at all. When I first started, I used to see that in my projects because I would just pour and then wait for it to harden. It wasn't until I learned to swirl that I finally got rid of that look and now I always add some sort of pattern to my projects. Steve (in the video) is correct in that to get a good swirl effect (or any effect for that matter), you need to let it cure until the disturbance you create in the mica stays on top and does not sink to the bottom. When the consistency is between honey and peanut butter is the perfect time so the mica doesn't sink after you put your pattern in it.
pouring a inch deep. table when should i start swirling
That helps thanks
Doing a thin surface pour with run off. Can you get any swirl?
what viscosity resin do you use?
Hi, I have an epoxy that became jelly after 12h at 20c °, I want use 3 different colours, what is the best way for swirls? use basic color and after 12h put the other 2 colours? or put all together and don move for 12h? ( but mica don t go on the floor?)....THK...table 3cm
When I stir..I get mica bubbles. Definitely see it on the bottom although creates a lot of bubbles. Am I stirring to early or too late?
Here's some helpful tips if you are getting mica bubbles while stirring!
1. Stirring Technique
Gentle Stirring: Stirring too vigorously or too fast can introduce air bubbles into the mixture. It's important to stir slowly and gently. Aim for a consistent, slow mix to evenly distribute the mica without creating too many bubbles.
Tool Choice: Use a flat stirring stick rather than something with a lot of surface area that can trap air, as this can help reduce the amount of air mixed into the epoxy.
2. Timing
Mica Addition Timing: Adding mica powder either too early before the epoxy components are thoroughly mixed, or too late when the epoxy has started to thicken, can affect bubble formation. Ideally, you should first mix the epoxy resin and hardener until they are fully blended and then add the mica powder.
Mixing Duration: Ensure you're not mixing for too long. Once the epoxy and hardener are mixed thoroughly (usually a few minutes is sufficient), and then the mica is incorporated, additional stirring should be minimized to avoid introducing more air.
3. Mica Mixing Method
Pre-Mixing Mica: Some crafters find success in pre-mixing mica powder with a small amount of epoxy resin to create a "slurry" before adding it to the larger batch of resin. This can help reduce bubbles as the mica is already suspended in the resin when added to the main mix.
Sifting Mica: To prevent clumps that can trap air, sift your mica powder into the resin. This ensures a smoother mix and can help reduce bubbles.
4. Bubble Removal After Mixing
Use of Heat: After pouring your resin, use a heat gun or torch (carefully) to pop the bubbles.
5. Environmental Factors
Temperature: Epoxy resin mixes better and degasses better at warmer temperatures. Working in a too cold environment can make the resin thicker, making it harder to mix smoothly and more prone to trapping air bubbles.
You might not be stirring too early or too late, but the method of stirring and how the mica is incorporated can significantly affect bubble formation.
We hope this helps! If you have more questions feel free to reach out to customer service on our website at www.upstartepoxy.com//?oid=11&affid=606&source_id=youtube. Thanks for watching!
@@upstartepoxy4804 WOW, awesome, thank you!
How would you get a swirl with a very very shallow pour? I'm talking about an 1/8".
A lot of it depends on the expoy you use (and there are many out there). I use Super Clear table top epoxy and when I do a shallow pour (like 1/8 inch) it only takes about 20 minutes to firm up to a point where I can add swirls and they will stay without sinking. After about 30 minutes its too firm to mess with, so there definitely is a sweet spot where you just have to watch and experiment until you get it just right.
what when you have a 2cm pour?
What about keeping colors separated?
When you are trying to swirl or color separate, it’s better to pour small amounts lightly into the molds throughout every temperature. What does change is the thickness as it gets hotter. Which causes the colors not to run as quickly allowing you time to add other colors and they won't blend together so easily. That's where you get your color separation.
I wish I watched this 4 min video before I attempted this. Should be able to mess around with it later tho 😆
Nah that's fine! Enjoy your pour!
Definitely swirl!
Mine just keeps disappearing- even after the consistency is that of peanut butter! ☹️ why doesn’t it stay? What am I doing wronggggg 😢
Def TO SWIRL
Do you find that adding swirls can result in more bubbles, that weren't there before? It's hit and miss for me, I find warming the resin prior helps.
Usually when we wait until its a thicker consistency we can do the swirls while minimizng bubbles. And you're totally right! Warming the resin absolutely helps before pouring -- that was our main tip our "Do THIS to ensure perfect flood coats" video. :)
Swirl it!😁.
I get so many bubbles doing ths
We recommend that you apply a seal coat first as wood are porous and cause way too many bubbles.
Definitely swirl. Sometimes it’s hard to be there at just the right time. It’s like babysitting a newborn! They’re not doing anything-UNTIL THEY DO AND YOU BETTER BE THERE!
The folks that don't swirl are the same people who order hamburgers cooked well done.
You don't need that kind of psychopath in your life. If they ask how many swirls are you going to put in, you say ALL OF THEM.
Swirl
Swirling is inhumane. I'm just better than that, I guess. I dont need to swirl. Never have, never will.