I'd recommend having the switch between the power cable and the module, rather than the module and the transducer. No need to keep the circuitry on if it's not actually doing anything
If it's something you use constantly, that could be an issue. Depending on the workspace setup, that may mean climbing under the table every time you want to turn it on and off, because the outlet is under the table. This is the case for me, I have everything plugged in 24/7 and keep it turned off unless it's in use. If you're only using it on occasion, it's not such a problem, but then you're still stuck with the knowledge that you built something and were too cheap/lazy to install a damn power switch 😂
@@Tinker_Nerd If the plug is inaccessible then by all means add an inline switch. Kill 2 birds, and add a timer switch if you're so inclined. My 6 plug sockets are under my benches, but I added double spurs and now have 12 outlets I can reach. Might be just me, but I'd prioritise sorting my workshop layout out before building this.
@@docthebiker I absolutely agree, a good workshop layout is vital before taking on any projects. Having a workshop full of inconveniences is all it takes to turn a fun project into an annoying chore
I'd recommend using crimp terminals (e.g. ring abiko) for connecting the ultrasonic transducer instead of soldering, there are holes after all in the terminals. Likewise, would recommend solderless cable extension methods (e.g. Wago terminal blocks), especially when dealing with mains voltages and/or potentially high currents. Better avoid extensions altogether if possible. Soldered connections can cause issues if they form cracks, start arcing, heat up and the solder melts. Really enjoy your videos on both channels, keep up the good work!
At 15:25, the bigger tabs closest to the insulation of the wire should go around the insulation. That's why they are bigger and longer to wrap around the insulation. The smaller tabs, which you crushed completely flat, they should grab the bare copper. If the wire bends to many times, in your current state, it will break just after the 2 bigger tabs and you have a loose disconnected wire. If the tabs would grab the insulation, it would prevent it. It seems the black wire was done correctly.
These terminals were installed completely incorrectly here. They're designed to be crimped onto the stripped end of a wire using the proper crimping tool, not by soldering. The wider & shorter tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the exposed wire, and the longer & thinner tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the insulated wire.
Nice build! A tub that size would have greatly benefitted from having two transducers. You can see the cleaning action is pretty much only in the center. Also if you can find a basket to put stuff in and have it lifted from the bottom, the cleaning area will increase as it did with the aluminum foil that was floating up top, as the ultrasonic action spreads up and out like a V. End of the day it's a good build that will beat a toothbrush with ISO any day :)
It's not possible to drill steel backwards successfully. Furthermore these cheap drill press don't come with reverse drive. And the chuck's jaws rotate in the right direction. Conclusion: Shutter speed / drill speed mismatch fools the camera here. The drillbit is blunt, though. These cheap titan plated drillbits are crap. Hardly even worth resharpening. But they don't advertise that. So people buy them. I do too, when i'm tight on money.
Magnífico proyecto mi querido amigo......Por lo cual, le doy mi más efusiva enhorabuena.......Solo un par de detalles......Le recomiendo que el recipiente metálico o la cubeta la conecte a Tierra o masa de su instalación eléctrica.....Para prevenir posibles derivaciones directas o indirectas y proteger su integridad física.....Una duda que tengo....¿podemos añadir algún liquido que a la vez nos ayude a quitar más óxido a la pieza que hemos sumergido?.....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España)................
hey! great build! i wish I'd done that instead of buying a cheap one. Just a note, you should use a elevated plastic or ruber mat (with holes ) on the bottom, or else putting hard materials (glass, metal) straight on the bottom can ear the bottom of your tank (what with all the vibration).
The transducer should come with a threaded plug that is designed to be TIG welded to the stainless tank. Then the transducer gets screwed down hard onto that with a smear of Sikaflex bedding compound. This greatly extends the life of the transducer as it gets cooled directly from the tank rather than hoping enough heat gets passed across an epoxy barrier, which when using the five minute handyman types can fail quickly due to excessive heat. JB weld or a similar metal rich epoxy may prove much more effective in the long term, if choosing epoxy as the connection medium... There was a lot of interest in fitting ultrasonic emitters to boat hulls a few years back instead of applying anti foul coatings. A lot of people found out the hard way that bonding the sonic generators to any surface permanently is way harder than first thought...
Can you please tell me for a 200l metal tank or drum how many ultrasonic generators I will need? The material to be cleaned is the dirt embedded in the beeswax frames and I don't know what frequency I should use in this experiment. Can you help me, please, since you understand a lot about the subject? Thanks.
On top of your valuable comment, I can add that the epoxy itself or any type of glue can damp the waves significantly and full power may not transfer to the tank itself.
Nice! I'd be tempted to do the same if I already didn't have a 10l ultrasonic cleaner. BTW, the best drill bits for plastic are glass and masonry bits, with a good edge. Masonry bits scrape off the material and don't bite into it, while metal and timber bits try to cut into material and cause all kinds of problems.
Nice work on making your own ultrasonic cleaner, it came out great! :D I look forward to seeing you use it in any future reviews, as well as newer experimental videos from this channel!
Hi, although this video is almost 2 years old (til now), you did a great job. Thanks from Ecuador, SouthAmerica. I noticed something that may be apreciated by many of us hobbists, wich is the kind of liquids or solutions for each case of cleaning. Some mention warm/hot /no water with detergent/isopropilic alcohol/thinner/etc. but all there are briefly mentioned in different videos. For example, just I learn from your video that rusty iron can be (accurately?) cleaned with vinegar and some time at the ultrasonic cleaner. In my case I'm craving to find a way to clean dollar coins found in the beach that have black stains, sometimes sand and broken seashell stick to them making it to look like a bigger dark stone. Watches, keys and some jewerly run the same fate. Anyway, I found your video useful and it will go to my library of knowledge.
Very nice idea and a great build of the mechanical part. As an electrician I am almost horrified. Some points are already mentioned in other comments like the connector pins that aren´t crimped as they should be or the switch that has to be in the power line instead of the output. Then I recommend using a cable gland for the power line instead of making a knot. Or fixing the control board properly inside the box with some spacers and screws. Last thing would be not be absolutely necessary, but when using a power line with a PE, connect it to the metal frame even if there should never be any contact between frame and power line. But when it´s there anyway, why not use it?
Things should not touch the bottom and only water can be placed in the ultrasonic cleaner, aggressive substances can be placed in another container and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Sorry for my english :)
7:14 You've wired the phase into the neutral and vice versus: Brown & Red are live, Black & Blue are Neutral. 13:26 The Earth really should be attached to the metal water bath; also the cut Earth (green wire) could randomly touch parts of your PCB. Tight grommets or silicone would be nice around the wire / switch case penetrations. Very interesting to see the insides, thanks!
Anyone else see the drill bit rotating Backwards? , ,. 3:08 as it comes to a stop, pause then single frame the video backward, you can tell for sure then.
@@DfknG85 Nah, it was spinning backwards, you can tell by the direction of the flutes. Also, it didn't make a single chip and just brute forced its way through.
Awesome build! Although do you think that maybe it would have better efficiency/power transfer if you welded a bolt to the tank that fits the ultrasonic generator and screwed the generator on in addition to the epoxy? I feel like the epoxy would come apart over time maybe not so much because it degraded but because the vibrations just breaks the bond between the metal and epoxy. So by having the majority of the power transfer through the bolt it would help longevity as well as a more direct power transfer but I could be wrong because the shape of the generator is important as well, it works on the same principal as an antenna, it matches the impedance to allow more efficient power transfer but it also makes me wonder why they have that threading on the output. Just a thought.
Nice project! I do have some constructive criticism concerning the soldering. 8:00 It would be a lot easier to solder the wires if you pre-tinned them and the area you were soldering to. Solder sticks to solder better than to untinned metal. 11:06 The soldered wires have spiky protrusions that could theoretically poke through the heatshrink. Especially the red wire. This is why it might be better to cut each wire to a different length so the extension points don't line up with each other. This way even if the heatshrink insulation fails the chance of a short will be lower. 12:53 I'm a little concerned about the loose wire strands. To avoid this it might be better to twist the strands together after stripping the insulation and then tin them. This way the strands will keep together.
For a good and fast soldering: first put tin on each part to be connected, place them in contact as desired and approach the tip (well tinned) of the soldering iron: the heat is transmitted instantly to the entire connection , the tin is evenly distributed over the entire surface in 2 seconds and the soldering iron can be removed. The weld is homogeneous, solid (no "sticking") and aesthetic.
Why did you put the switch on the output side rather than the power input? Is the circuitry OK with sudden changes in load that that would create? You'll have to keep it unplugged from the mains when not in use so it doesn't consume power (not an arduous task).
I can see electrics are not your strongest skill. YOU ARE DEALING WITH MAINS ELECTRICITY AND LIQUIDS! Waterproof glands should be used on mains and transducer cables (not a knot). Insulated terminal connector blocks should be used (not soldered connections) The frame and container must be earthed! Two transducers would have been better. Parts to be cleaned should be in a suspended basket and not directly touching the bottom. Consider adding a drain tap to the container so you don't have to disconnect wires and so you can add a permanent earth. Also a simple timer circuit would be nice
Alarm bells started going off as soon as the diagram of the power switch (single pole) being used on the controller output rather than AC input. It just got worse from there lol
No matter what way you look at it this is an impressive achievement, while I was tempted to be offended by your comment at first on, the other hand, you definitely have brought up some very valid points about safety that anybody would be wise to heed and to take into account on any subsequent builds.The great thing about a person who is motivated to do something like this, at least from my experience, is that while their first iterations are great, the second will be even better, the third even better. I have no doubt we’ll be seeing some more sick stuff from this channel regardless of any present skill level. I can’t wait.
Can you please tell me for a 200l metal tank or drum how many ultrasonic generators I will need? The material to be cleaned is the dirt embedded in the beeswax frames and I don't know what frequency I should use in this experiment. Can you help me, please, since you understand a lot about the subject? Thanks.
No i haven't got a video about it, I might make one at some point with a little upgraded design but it simply has similar design that you have in motor when the piston moves up and and it's converted to circular motion. But on this one it converts the rotation of the drill into a back and forth movement at the bottom of the paint can holder
@@Odd_Experiments After re-watching I see it was using a drill. I have enough info to attempt to make one for myself. Thanks OE. So very clever you are!!!
Some bad things can happen with this design ... 1. On/Off switch should be before the electronics, ie right after the power cord. EMI shielding is required 2. 3rd wire of the power cord should be connected to the metal parts - frame or the tank 3. Very poor protection of the electronics against getting wet 4. Both wires for the generator should be mechanically connected to withstand those vibrations 5. Same goes for epoxy connections - won't last in a long run 6. The tank is big enough to use more than one generator - because vibrations are in cone shape 5 are optimal (1 per each side and 1 at from bottom), but it will be more expensive 7. Tank also must be thick enough - most industrial variants has 3mm stainless steel wall
Yikes, the comments are pretty ruthless, but I guess it's warranted. Just goes to show the difference in viewers between OT & OE. Much more technically inclined viewers on here. I definitely didn't pick up on all the flaws of this build myself. Maybe put a disclaimer in the description; "for entertainment purposes only"
I would actually say this is dangerous. To the point if someone was to follow the video, chances are they'd kill themselves. It's horrendous to be honest.
This would have saved me some bucks. Just a small suggestion. You can put a control valve similar to a water faucet at one end. That will allow you to drain it without removing the tub
This is a brilliant idea, to use these stainless steel mini tubs. I wanted to build one myself but I didn't find any tubs. I ended up buying a 400 dolar ultrasonic cleaner Form Ali :))
Within the “speaker” area the effect is immediate, but it decreases at more external zones. I think that more speakers could help having a constant action inside the bowl. And considering cost I think that’s one of the things is convenient to buy instead build it : less than 80 euros for a 3 liter tank, less than 120 for a 6 liter one, all stainless steel, with temperature and frequency adjustments, timer, lid and drain tap.
For larger holes in plastic use a step drill. Its so much easyer. Try it. Also get a crimping tool of aliexpress for those wire connectors. Works way better then pliers
Good work 👍 Yeah...the PE/Ground but it's almost a plastic case. but I would do it anyway, just in case. Water/metal Container/230V ... But there is one thing you have to change as fast as possible ! You have build the PCB into a air&water tight case. But you have to know that the PCB gets very hot! If you don't take care of airflow the PCB and the Transducer distroy itself by overheating. One PC fan is minimum for airflow.
Circuit board has 2 transformers and they produce heat. You need a bigger box with in and out venting with a cooling fan . Also a suspended wire basket so items to be cleaned will be able to get treated evenly and not destroy the bottom of the pan.
1. Ground the entire frame (and bath). 2. It does make a difference how you attach the transducer i.e. polarity and grounding. 3. You either crimp or solder a cable, different methods for different applications, although in this particular case, doesn't make much difference. 4. Add cooling to that PCB 5. The epoxy method of attaching the transducer will not last long enough. I have few of the cheap Chinese ultrasonic cleaners, like the Vevor, etc, they are all bad. Even though the transducers are attached with the screw to the bath AND with an adhesive, they detach quite quickly. The screw is spot welded poorly. The best method is to TIG weld the screw, attach the transducer to the screw and then apply epoxy. In this case the epoxy is to prevent the transducer from unscrewing itself, acting more like a tread locker than as an attaching adhesive. There is nothing generally wrong with your design, except the grounding. because electrical shock, however the epoxy will just not last long enough and you will have to constantly fiddle with it.
Shouldn't the volume / frequency / power be calculated somehow to produce the standing waves necessary for the process to work right? It seemed to be doing something, and its a great idea, but isn't it a bit blunt force solution?
I would recommend JB weld for the transducer to tank joint... much stronger and harder for a better ultrasonic transparent / transmission joint. Good looking build. Subbed here.
I have several pressure pots and was wondering if there would be any benefits to operating a sonic cleaner under pressure or vacuum. Iv not been able to find any information I could turn the pressure pot into a sonic cleaner and apply vacuum or pressure to it.
You also don't need to put your cleaning solutions directly into the tank of the cleaner. Use water with a drop of dish soap in the tank, then set a jar (or other container) with your cleaning solution and parts into the tank. Clean as usual. Now you only have to use a small amount of cleaning solution (saving money) and don't need to empty the big tank every time. In the lab I work in, we use the UC for all types of cleaning solutions and only change the water in the main tank when it gets yucky, maybe once a year. Just top up as needed.
I would have used thermal conducive epoxy to mount the transducer. That way, the tank can become a heat sink to cool it and perhaps help the transducer last longer.
fill a zip lock bag with a bit of cleaning solution, put the objects in it, fill the cleaner tub with water, place the bag in the tub. This keeps your cleaner tub clean and does not waste huge quantities of cleaning solution.
May I suggest first attaching your wires and terminals mechanically and then applying solder. In the event your end up with a cold solder joint, then your wire will still pass maximum current. With a cold solder joint, the current may be forced to pass via the solder material and that could develop unwanted heat and possibly result in a fire hazard. Make sure the wires are always twisted together where possible before soldering. Apply a small amount of solder to the soldering tip then use the tip to heat up the wire. Once the wire reaches the temperature, then melt the solder onto the wire (not the soldering iron tip) so that it flows. The Ultrasonic Emitter needs maximum conductivity to work properly. Hope this helps.
Good video. Thanks. I think that the epoxy should be a certain thickness (and hardness). You might have used shims to hold the transducer at the correct distance from the metal.
I'd recommend having the switch between the power cable and the module, rather than the module and the transducer. No need to keep the circuitry on if it's not actually doing anything
That's what I was thinking.
Why? Just pull the plug out the wall.
It doesn't really need any power switches if your keeping it simple.
If it's something you use constantly, that could be an issue. Depending on the workspace setup, that may mean climbing under the table every time you want to turn it on and off, because the outlet is under the table. This is the case for me, I have everything plugged in 24/7 and keep it turned off unless it's in use.
If you're only using it on occasion, it's not such a problem, but then you're still stuck with the knowledge that you built something and were too cheap/lazy to install a damn power switch 😂
@@Tinker_Nerd If the plug is inaccessible then by all means add an inline switch.
Kill 2 birds, and add a timer switch if you're so inclined.
My 6 plug sockets are under my benches, but I added double spurs and now have 12 outlets I can reach.
Might be just me, but I'd prioritise sorting my workshop layout out before building this.
@@docthebiker I absolutely agree, a good workshop layout is vital before taking on any projects. Having a workshop full of inconveniences is all it takes to turn a fun project into an annoying chore
You should've connect the PE-wire to frame and made sure the tank grounds through the frame
I'd recommend using crimp terminals (e.g. ring abiko) for connecting the ultrasonic transducer instead of soldering, there are holes after all in the terminals. Likewise, would recommend solderless cable extension methods (e.g. Wago terminal blocks), especially when dealing with mains voltages and/or potentially high currents. Better avoid extensions altogether if possible. Soldered connections can cause issues if they form cracks, start arcing, heat up and the solder melts. Really enjoy your videos on both channels, keep up the good work!
Since the container is removable, will need another PE on it. He can change to 3 point plug instead of the two
@@subramaniamchandrasekar1397 that's true. Maybe but a ground distribution block in junction box
@@simoapell2537 Yeah I cringed when he attached the wire with a big blob of solder. That thing is specifically designed to vibrate!
Why is a ground needed? It looks like the system did not come with one.Where do you see a point where, the frame could end up at voltage?
At 15:25, the bigger tabs closest to the insulation of the wire should go around the insulation. That's why they are bigger and longer to wrap around the insulation. The smaller tabs, which you crushed completely flat, they should grab the bare copper. If the wire bends to many times, in your current state, it will break just after the 2 bigger tabs and you have a loose disconnected wire. If the tabs would grab the insulation, it would prevent it.
It seems the black wire was done correctly.
just wrote that xD
These terminals were installed completely incorrectly here. They're designed to be crimped onto the stripped end of a wire using the proper crimping tool, not by soldering. The wider & shorter tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the exposed wire, and the longer & thinner tabs are supposed to be crimped onto the insulated wire.
I was just about to come and comment that. There's so much bad practice shown in this video, it was hard to watch.
Nice build! A tub that size would have greatly benefitted from having two transducers. You can see the cleaning action is pretty much only in the center. Also if you can find a basket to put stuff in and have it lifted from the bottom, the cleaning area will increase as it did with the aluminum foil that was floating up top, as the ultrasonic action spreads up and out like a V. End of the day it's a good build that will beat a toothbrush with ISO any day :)
Yeah if you're gonna make one, more power!
By the way cleaning electric toothbrush heads inside ultrasonic cleaner is making them almost brand new
And worse leaving something at thé bottom on direct contact will destroy the tank...
4 transducers.
50 to 100 watts of transducer power per gallon of liquid is recommended. Above 100 watts per gallon supposedly causes part erosion to occur.
Thanks for the video! By the way, you could probably add a faucet to drain water. Then you'll not need to disconnect the transducer etc.
Valeu!
Really cool! A nice upgrade should be a PID controlled heater and timer.
Making it with the connector out of the way under the bowl was super smart for getting rid of the dirty water safely. Nice job 👏
one little advise, when your drilling metal at the beginning juste make sure your turning the right way, it was the wrong side
It's not possible to drill steel backwards successfully.
Furthermore these cheap drill press don't come with reverse drive.
And the chuck's jaws rotate in the right direction.
Conclusion: Shutter speed / drill speed mismatch fools the camera here.
The drillbit is blunt, though.
These cheap titan plated drillbits are crap. Hardly even worth resharpening.
But they don't advertise that.
So people buy them. I do too, when i'm tight on money.
I slow it down 0.25 and I saw it turning ccw instead of clockwise thats why it rock so much effort to drill that thin square tube
Magnífico proyecto mi querido amigo......Por lo cual, le doy mi más efusiva enhorabuena.......Solo un par de detalles......Le recomiendo que el recipiente metálico o la cubeta la conecte a Tierra o masa de su instalación eléctrica.....Para prevenir posibles derivaciones directas o indirectas y proteger su integridad física.....Una duda que tengo....¿podemos añadir algún liquido que a la vez nos ayude a quitar más óxido a la pieza que hemos sumergido?.....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España)................
hey! great build! i wish I'd done that instead of buying a cheap one.
Just a note, you should use a elevated plastic or ruber mat (with holes ) on the bottom, or else putting hard materials (glass, metal) straight on the bottom can ear the bottom of your tank (what with all the vibration).
The transducer should come with a threaded plug that is designed to be TIG welded to the stainless tank. Then the transducer gets screwed down hard onto that with a smear of Sikaflex bedding compound. This greatly extends the life of the transducer as it gets cooled directly from the tank rather than hoping enough heat gets passed across an epoxy barrier, which when using the five minute handyman types can fail quickly due to excessive heat. JB weld or a similar metal rich epoxy may prove much more effective in the long term, if choosing epoxy as the connection medium... There was a lot of interest in fitting ultrasonic emitters to boat hulls a few years back instead of applying anti foul coatings. A lot of people found out the hard way that bonding the sonic generators to any surface permanently is way harder than first thought...
The wires should have been made into hooks, attached to the tabs and soldered. Never reliy on the soldered alone to provide mechanical support.
The threaded studs can be silver soldered in place as well.
Can you please tell me for a 200l metal tank or drum how many ultrasonic generators I will need? The material to be cleaned is the dirt embedded in the beeswax frames and I don't know what frequency I should use in this experiment. Can you help me, please, since you understand a lot about the subject? Thanks.
On top of your valuable comment, I can add that the epoxy itself or any type of glue can damp the waves significantly and full power may not transfer to the tank itself.
Nice! I'd be tempted to do the same if I already didn't have a 10l ultrasonic cleaner. BTW, the best drill bits for plastic are glass and masonry bits, with a good edge. Masonry bits scrape off the material and don't bite into it, while metal and timber bits try to cut into material and cause all kinds of problems.
Thx for the tip, learned something new today👍
@@joshuavanwyk2664 me too! Never even considered glass/masonry bits for hard plastic.
Nice work on making your own ultrasonic cleaner, it came out great! :D I look forward to seeing you use it in any future reviews, as well as newer experimental videos from this channel!
Hi, although this video is almost 2 years old (til now), you did a great job. Thanks from Ecuador, SouthAmerica. I noticed something that may be apreciated by many of us hobbists, wich is the kind of liquids or solutions for each case of cleaning. Some mention warm/hot /no water with detergent/isopropilic alcohol/thinner/etc. but all there are briefly mentioned in different videos. For example, just I learn from your video that rusty iron can be (accurately?) cleaned with vinegar and some time at the ultrasonic cleaner. In my case I'm craving to find a way to clean dollar coins found in the beach that have black stains, sometimes sand and broken seashell stick to them making it to look like a bigger dark stone. Watches, keys and some jewerly run the same fate. Anyway, I found your video useful and it will go to my library of knowledge.
Very nice idea and a great build of the mechanical part. As an electrician I am almost horrified. Some points are already mentioned in other comments like the connector pins that aren´t crimped as they should be or the switch that has to be in the power line instead of the output. Then I recommend using a cable gland for the power line instead of making a knot. Or fixing the control board properly inside the box with some spacers and screws. Last thing would be not be absolutely necessary, but when using a power line with a PE, connect it to the metal frame even if there should never be any contact between frame and power line. But when it´s there anyway, why not use it?
Nice build. One tip: using some hot air (hairdryer) after mixing the epoxy removes the air bubbles in the epoxy and gives a stronger bound.
Things should not touch the bottom and only water can be placed in the ultrasonic cleaner, aggressive substances can be placed in another container and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Sorry for my english :)
Your English was fine. It made the point. Thanks for pointing it out.
The only reason people put cleaning solutions in smaller glass containers is so as not to waste it by using too much to fill the main container.
only true for flammable stuff, vinegar is just fine
@@ro63rto The descaling agent made a hole in stainless steel tank of my ultrasonic cleaner.
@@vidger908 probably cheap not so stainless Chinese thingy
Perfect thing to watch before bed.
Thank you very much for sharing your video,that's great. from Algeria🇩🇿
That rattle can shaker is PRICELESS!!
7:14 You've wired the phase into the neutral and vice versus: Brown & Red are live, Black & Blue are Neutral.
13:26 The Earth really should be attached to the metal water bath; also the cut Earth (green wire) could randomly touch parts of your PCB.
Tight grommets or silicone would be nice around the wire / switch case penetrations. Very interesting to see the insides, thanks!
AC power..... it's not dc
I did very similar but to my kitchen sink. It’s some of the best money I’ve ever spent.
Anyone else see the drill bit rotating Backwards? , ,. 3:08 as it comes to a stop, pause then single frame the video backward, you can tell for sure then.
Yeah. Whats up with that
that section of video may have been flipped\mirrored for composition
@@DfknG85 Nah, it was spinning backwards, you can tell by the direction of the flutes. Also, it didn't make a single chip and just brute forced its way through.
Thanks dude and i thought i should need a second pair of glases:)
Just saw your comment after noticing the same thing, "this is the crappiest drill bit ever" and at the end it was going backwards :D
Love the drill-powered paint shaker...
Awesome build! Although do you think that maybe it would have better efficiency/power transfer if you welded a bolt to the tank that fits the ultrasonic generator and screwed the generator on in addition to the epoxy? I feel like the epoxy would come apart over time maybe not so much because it degraded but because the vibrations just breaks the bond between the metal and epoxy. So by having the majority of the power transfer through the bolt it would help longevity as well as a more direct power transfer but I could be wrong because the shape of the generator is important as well, it works on the same principal as an antenna, it matches the impedance to allow more efficient power transfer but it also makes me wonder why they have that threading on the output. Just a thought.
Good point. The transducer comes with a fitting that is intended to be welded to the tank.
The fitting stud can be silver soldered in place with a common propane torch.
Nice project!
I do have some constructive criticism concerning the soldering.
8:00 It would be a lot easier to solder the wires if you pre-tinned them and the area you were soldering to. Solder sticks to solder better than to untinned metal.
11:06 The soldered wires have spiky protrusions that could theoretically poke through the heatshrink. Especially the red wire. This is why it might be better to cut each wire to a different length so the extension points don't line up with each other. This way even if the heatshrink insulation fails the chance of a short will be lower.
12:53 I'm a little concerned about the loose wire strands. To avoid this it might be better to twist the strands together after stripping the insulation and then tin them. This way the strands will keep together.
Subscribed for 2 reasons: 1. Interesting little project. 2. Good descriptions.
Very nice work, may I suggest adding fan to circuit because these kind of circuits getting very hot.
Thank you so much ❤🙏
19:26 is it enough for do cleaning to fule injectors or solenoids ?
Gasoline can be used as a cleaning solution?
For a good and fast soldering: first put tin on each part to be connected, place them in contact as desired and approach the tip (well tinned) of the soldering iron: the heat is transmitted instantly to the entire connection , the tin is evenly distributed over the entire surface in 2 seconds and the soldering iron can be removed. The weld is homogeneous, solid (no "sticking") and aesthetic.
Shouldnt of even been welded to the terminals of the transducer, they will break its only a matter of when.
The layman is amazed - and the expert throws up
Yes 😂
Won't the constant vibration eventually break the epoxy glue bond?
Why did you put the switch on the output side rather than the power input? Is the circuitry OK with sudden changes in load that that would create?
You'll have to keep it unplugged from the mains when not in use so it doesn't consume power (not an arduous task).
I can see electrics are not your strongest skill. YOU ARE DEALING WITH MAINS ELECTRICITY AND LIQUIDS! Waterproof glands should be used on mains and transducer cables (not a knot). Insulated terminal connector blocks should be used (not soldered connections) The frame and container must be earthed! Two transducers would have been better. Parts to be cleaned should be in a suspended basket and not directly touching the bottom. Consider adding a drain tap to the container so you don't have to disconnect wires and so you can add a permanent earth. Also a simple timer circuit would be nice
Alarm bells started going off as soon as the diagram of the power switch (single pole) being used on the controller output rather than AC input. It just got worse from there lol
Just a solder blob to connect wire to a thing that is specifically designed vibrate. That's gonna break FOR SURE.
What is his strongest skill?
No matter what way you look at it this is an impressive achievement, while I was tempted to be offended by your comment at first on, the other hand, you definitely have brought up some very valid points about safety that anybody would be wise to heed and to take into account on any subsequent builds.The great thing about a person who is motivated to do something like this, at least from my experience, is that while their first iterations are great, the second will be even better, the third even better. I have no doubt we’ll be seeing some more sick stuff from this channel regardless of any present skill level. I can’t wait.
Can you please tell me for a 200l metal tank or drum how many ultrasonic generators I will need? The material to be cleaned is the dirt embedded in the beeswax frames and I don't know what frequency I should use in this experiment. Can you help me, please, since you understand a lot about the subject? Thanks.
I love your spray can shaker!!! Do you have a video on making it? I would have to adapt it to a bench grinder as I have 3 or 4 of them but no lathe.
It looks like it’s just a wooden frame & arm linkage, no lathe involved. He’s using a handheld drill to power it
No i haven't got a video about it, I might make one at some point with a little upgraded design but it simply has similar design that you have in motor when the piston moves up and and it's converted to circular motion. But on this one it converts the rotation of the drill into a back and forth movement at the bottom of the paint can holder
@@Odd_Experiments I am in absolute love. Clever and Homemade, right up my Alley!
@@Odd_Experiments After re-watching I see it was using a drill. I have enough info to attempt to make one for myself. Thanks OE. So very clever you are!!!
Some bad things can happen with this design ...
1. On/Off switch should be before the electronics, ie right after the power cord. EMI shielding is required
2. 3rd wire of the power cord should be connected to the metal parts - frame or the tank
3. Very poor protection of the electronics against getting wet
4. Both wires for the generator should be mechanically connected to withstand those vibrations
5. Same goes for epoxy connections - won't last in a long run
6. The tank is big enough to use more than one generator - because vibrations are in cone shape 5 are optimal (1 per each side and 1 at from bottom), but it will be more expensive
7. Tank also must be thick enough - most industrial variants has 3mm stainless steel wall
Pretty sad I had to come this far down to see someone mentioning grounding.
Is it a good idea to run the board without the transducers?I've read many warnings that it might blow up without a load.
I think you're supposed to crimp wire insulation under 2nd set of tabs to ensure a very good grip
Could the power transistors not be replaced with CREE Power modules that are designed to work at high power levels.
Yikes, the comments are pretty ruthless, but I guess it's warranted. Just goes to show the difference in viewers between OT & OE. Much more technically inclined viewers on here.
I definitely didn't pick up on all the flaws of this build myself.
Maybe put a disclaimer in the description; "for entertainment purposes only"
I would actually say this is dangerous. To the point if someone was to follow the video, chances are they'd kill themselves. It's horrendous to be honest.
Such a disclaimer isn't really enough, people can die messing around with mains voltages.
the spray shaking machine is evolutionary!!!!!!
This would have saved me some bucks. Just a small suggestion. You can put a control valve similar to a water faucet at one end. That will allow you to drain it without removing the tub
Your videos are so relaxing and satisfying to watch.
Your switch should connect to the main power supply for safety.
I recently got one of those soldering irons with the trigger solder feed. It's a wonderful tool
It's just a kiddy toy. The LAST thing that you want is the solder bring fed that way.
How long for continuous operation before ultrasonic module getting too hot? and can we use desktop pc power supply?
Thank you for the warning on the welding/lights!!
Nice, I keep wanting to get an ultrasonic cleaner myself, I just haven't gotten around to it yet... :P
Many Thanks! This will be very useful in my future
This is one of the coolest things I have seen from you. Great work!
Yeah. Until it gives you a lethal shock. Not so cool then huh ?
Do you need to ground the container?
3:05 your drill tip was turning in the wrong direction, it will be damaged very quick
Wow you got the shop lol. Nice.
This is a brilliant idea, to use these stainless steel mini tubs. I wanted to build one myself but I didn't find any tubs. I ended up buying a 400 dolar ultrasonic cleaner Form Ali :))
Specs of ultrasonic transducer and from where to get it and the generator.
3:09 Is it me or your drilling Counter Clock Wise not Clock Wise with the drill that is Clock Wise?
Within the “speaker” area the effect is immediate, but it decreases at more external zones. I think that more speakers could help having a constant action inside the bowl. And considering cost I think that’s one of the things is convenient to buy instead build it : less than 80 euros for a 3 liter tank, less than 120 for a 6 liter one, all stainless steel, with temperature and frequency adjustments, timer, lid and drain tap.
Standard epoxy or any special grade? Spec of the transducer please.
Question. Can you fit more than one transducer to that board or do you need one board one transducer.
For larger holes in plastic use a step drill.
Its so much easyer.
Try it.
Also get a crimping tool of aliexpress for those wire connectors.
Works way better then pliers
Muito top mano, faltou comer refrigerar sistema resto nota 10❤
Good work 👍
Yeah...the PE/Ground but it's almost a plastic case. but I would do it anyway, just in case. Water/metal Container/230V ...
But there is one thing you have to change as fast as possible ! You have build the PCB into a air&water tight case. But you have to know that the PCB gets very hot! If you don't take care of airflow the PCB and the Transducer distroy itself by overheating. One PC fan is minimum for airflow.
That can shaker is awesome
Circuit board has 2 transformers and they produce heat. You need a bigger box with in and out venting with a cooling fan . Also a suspended wire basket so items to be cleaned will be able to get treated evenly and not destroy the bottom of the pan.
bro, will it faster if we attach more transducers to the container ?
The linked container is only 4 inches deep, where did you get yours?
Hi from france how many transuctor for how many litres thks
Hello sir. Can i put 2 60w 40khz transducent in 1 220v 120w power circuit board?
1. Ground the entire frame (and bath). 2. It does make a difference how you attach the transducer i.e. polarity and grounding. 3. You either crimp or solder a cable, different methods for different applications, although in this particular case, doesn't make much difference. 4. Add cooling to that PCB 5. The epoxy method of attaching the transducer will not last long enough. I have few of the cheap Chinese ultrasonic cleaners, like the Vevor, etc, they are all bad. Even though the transducers are attached with the screw to the bath AND with an adhesive, they detach quite quickly. The screw is spot welded poorly. The best method is to TIG weld the screw, attach the transducer to the screw and then apply epoxy. In this case the epoxy is to prevent the transducer from unscrewing itself, acting more like a tread locker than as an attaching adhesive. There is nothing generally wrong with your design, except the grounding. because electrical shock, however the epoxy will just not last long enough and you will have to constantly fiddle with it.
The top prongs on that crimper are meant to crimp onto the insulation. I'm sure this will be fine however I would always solder it as well
Oops I should have watched further you did solder it
Shouldn't the volume / frequency / power be calculated somehow to produce the standing waves necessary for the process to work right? It seemed to be doing something, and its a great idea, but isn't it a bit blunt force solution?
I would recommend JB weld for the transducer to tank joint... much stronger and harder for a better ultrasonic transparent / transmission joint. Good looking build. Subbed here.
Now I do not need to comment. I also recommend JB weld original steel that ends up gray and hard. The clear stuff is too soft.
I think Odd is based in Finland. Would he even have access to a "JB Weld" there?
J to the MFing B weld
JB weld is also nothing but epoxy. so doesn't matter.
usual epox is rockhard after curing.
Thank god you showed the entire drilling a hole process....
....backwards
I have several pressure pots and was wondering if there would be any benefits to operating a sonic cleaner under pressure or vacuum. Iv not been able to find any information I could turn the pressure pot into a sonic cleaner and apply vacuum or pressure to it.
Why you didnt ground the metal case?!
catering supplies
simple but efficient build
generally, the interrupter is on the hot wire so it should have 2 red wires...
Looks like you should use 2 ultrasonic generators instead of 1. Its just working in the center by the looks of it.
NICE VIDEO. CAN TELL ME HOW TO COLLEC ULTRASONIC GENERATOR KIT.
You also don't need to put your cleaning solutions directly into the tank of the cleaner. Use water with a drop of dish soap in the tank, then set a jar (or other container) with your cleaning solution and parts into the tank. Clean as usual. Now you only have to use a small amount of cleaning solution (saving money) and don't need to empty the big tank every time. In the lab I work in, we use the UC for all types of cleaning solutions and only change the water in the main tank when it gets yucky, maybe once a year. Just top up as needed.
Does the ultrasonic penetrate into the 2nd container as well though?
@@RestoreTechnique yes it was
@18:23 Just look at the nodes! That was pretty cool.
I would have used thermal conducive epoxy to mount the transducer. That way, the tank can become a heat sink to cool it and perhaps help the transducer last longer.
i wanna see how u made that paint shaker
I wonder if the 3/5 rule would help in this case? You know, how they make the panel speakers?
How long it will last? It is working until now?
what are the wires that you used?
Nice job , Where did you buy the components
Wow ❗ great video and a perfect build. Thanks for sharing
Where do you get the terminals at time stamp 15:33? I'm needing some. Thanks
fill a zip lock bag with a bit of cleaning solution, put the objects in it, fill the cleaner tub with water, place the bag in the tub.
This keeps your cleaner tub clean and does not waste huge quantities of cleaning solution.
May I suggest first attaching your wires and terminals mechanically and then applying solder. In the event your end up with a cold solder joint, then your wire will still pass maximum current. With a cold solder joint, the current may be forced to pass via the solder material and that could develop unwanted heat and possibly result in a fire hazard. Make sure the wires are always twisted together where possible before soldering. Apply a small amount of solder to the soldering tip then use the tip to heat up the wire. Once the wire reaches the temperature, then melt the solder onto the wire (not the soldering iron tip) so that it flows. The Ultrasonic Emitter needs maximum conductivity to work properly. Hope this helps.
the commercial one got more than one us generator?
what water do you use to clean the rust
Does it work if you shove another steel tray inside the one you glued the transducer on?
Very nice idea
Can you do a video on that paint can shaker
Crimp tool: Iwiss 2820m. Consider it?
Good video. Thanks. I think that the epoxy should be a certain thickness (and hardness). You might have used shims to hold the transducer at the correct distance from the metal.
Nice design, for electronics use isopropyl in the tank.
Very good ❤