On my E-M10 IV I've remapped the 2x digital zoom button to "magnify", and the record button to focus peeking. Combining the two let's me focus quite accurately with a quick press from my index finger. Since I only shoot photos and do digital zoom in post, these buttons are perfect candidates for remapping, and I like how the button icons still roughly match their new functions.
Yes, Peter, throw in an image editing tip more frequently. Regardless of which editing software one uses, the concept being explained (or “tipped”) can likely be applied.
Thank you, Peter. There is no MY SET in EM10 III. The mode setting is a great idea for MY SET setting. Now only if we can name each of My Set. I tend to forget what each does! May be that can be done in a future upgrade. I enjoy your videos.
Thanks Peter! I use Ev bracketing with H-series and merge HDR 16-bit RAW file in Lr. Significantly improves colors and reduces noise almost to zero. This produces much better result than in-camera HDR.
Focus stacking in camera warning. If you get an in camera warning that your lens isn't compatible with focus stacking what should you do? Basically the warning means that the camera will not do in camera focus stacking. Instead it will produce a series of individual photographs all with a slightly different focus point. You can then use these photographs in photo editing software like Affinity Photo (possibly Photoshop but I don't use it) to perform an automatic stack within the application. It works well with non Pro lenses, even the 75-300mm at 300mm, so a non pro lens at its weakest focal length can be helped.
OMG, just crazy thing. Always learn something new. Thanks for tip about stabilizing, I didn't know about that. About editing, I use only Darktable (plus GIMP sometimes) because I am fan of free and open source software and I prefer it, if it's possible. It's not bad choice. Darktable manages masks many years.
That was one of your better tip videos - good work! This is a bit long, sorry about that, but here are two tips you might like: Noise reduction: After a lot of experiments, my preferred way of handling noise reduction is to set H Settings Silent shutter to Max fps (60) and Frame count limiter to something like 5. Depending on the situation you might want to rise it further, but so far 5 normally tends to be enough for my purposes. If it's dark it's unlikely you will get 60fps, but that doesn't really matter, what does is that it will take a sequence of raws automatically as fast as possible. Then just put that series into your post-processing tool, be it Lightroom or something else, auto-align them makes slight movements between shots a non-issue, depending on your steadiness you will lose more or less at the edges, but that can be compensated by shooting slightly wider. Once aligned, you will get instant noise reduction with stacking. Since this is kind of a background setting, you don't have to think about it when shooting, use the settings you think are right for the photo, and as long as you are steady enough that you don't get blur in the individual photos, perfect alignment is irrelevant. All you need to do when you want this kind of post-processing noise reduction is to enable the shooting mode silent H Then keep the shutter pressed until there is no more flickering, indicating that the series is completed. Side benefit, this approach works just as well on a tripod, with the added bonus of no miss-alignment losses. Magnify: Instead of assigning magnify to a button, I would suggest assigning Multi-Function instead. Then in the D menu, activate the multi-functions that are relevant for your shooting style. I use Magnify, S-OVF, and Peaking, normally having Magnify as the current feature. When you hit the Multi-Function button it will toggle the current function on/off. If you want to toggle one of the others just turn one of the dials as you press the button, then you can select what you are toggling for now in a menu. Since I don't use S-OVF and Peaking that often, but occasionally want them, and in those cases easily accessible, this allows me to have them at a button for quick access, but not blocking a button from other usages.
A friend just asked how to do the stacking noise reduction, so I might as well include it here as well for those that haven't experimented with this: 1. Import to LR, select photos, ⌘G - Photo-Stacking-Group into Stack 2.Disable all sharpening and noise reduction on the stack, I use a preset, but can be done manually of course. 3. Doing adjustments to one of them, copy-paste to the rest of the stack, don't bother with cropping at this stage, unless perfectly aligned you will have to do cropping after this procedure is completed anyhow to get rid of no coverage areas. 4. Photo-Edit In-Open as Layers in Photoshop -- in Photoshop -- 5. ⌥⌘A - Select-All Layers 6. Edit-Auto Allign Layers - Auto, no vignette or Distortion 7. Layer-Smart Objects-Convert to Smart Object 8. Layer-Smart Objects-Stack Mode-Median 9. Done! Close Photoshop and you will have the result in LR In principle you don't have to bother with the stacking in LR, but its a convenient way of not having to see them as individual photos and if you have several series of a similar scene, taking one dummy photo between each sequence will save you tons of sanity once you get it in to LR. Disgarding a photo is a lot quicker then staring at two almost identical series figuring out where one ends and the next begins.
Peter, these are good tips for those who choose to use custom sets of settings. It would be an interesting video to see if/how you use this in the field. How often do you need to make additional changes? If you don't use them, it would be interesting to learn why. I don't recommend these custom settings and have never use them, and here's why: - they are a crutch. They will cause your skills to atrophy. You will spend your memory thinking "#1 is landscapes, #2 is for water" rather than reading the specific scene and adjusting the settings accordingly. So, you may get more pictures faster but your skills may suffer. - the above will really be a problem if you use different bodies (that have different features). - the chances of your settings being 100% ideal for the scene are very slim. You might as well use Automatic setting. If you want a perfect match for the scene you need to know your gear and understand photography. - less enjoyable. Does changing a dial and pushing a button equal photography? Not for me, and not for those who want to be mindful. - you're going to wear out your mode dial faster. - you're going to spend your time programming your camera, likely based on someone else's settings that you found online. Boring. - if you get a new camera it will take you longer to set it up because you've become dependent on the custom settings. Now, if you are a spray and pray photographer who always shoots on Automatic, that's fine too. I've enjoyed and made a living from photography for decades. Doing as much manual work as possible helps keep my mind sharp and provides enjoyment to me. There are many features and tactics that I never/seldom use (like Pro Capture/burst BBF, shooting RAW, using protective filters and nonOEM batteries). That's what works for me.
Thanks for the info. I understand what you mean. Custom settings are great in many in my opinion. Let's say you are photographing birds. Sometimes they fly, but they might also sit on a tree. C1 one has AF settings for flying birds and C2 for example for those birds that are still. There are so many things that are possible to save to Custom modes. But I agree that it is totally ok to set the settings on the fly. The only that matters is the image.
Like the editing tips. I happen to like the handheld hires for noise reduction. I have a RAW and resize it back down to 20mp for most uses which makes a nice sharp low noise RAW to work with rather than the jpeg.
I forgot to mention that I also do that magnify on the front plate button. The second front plate button I use for manual focus peaking which is the main manual focus assist tool I use for video work.
Topaz DeNoise has transformed my image editing. Using low DeNoise and low sharpening, my photographs are improved substantially. And Sharpen AI makes unusable wildlife images acceptable if not great.
Good tips, Peter. Would it make sense to give basic settings on MYSET 1 - like - for example: shutter speed 250, f8, ISO100? And same for other "MYSETs" like portrait, landscape, night, sports/action, B&W... etc?
You need to have the enlarged view on. I have it on one of the front buttons. Pressing that twice will enlarge the view. Then set it Mode 2 to have the enlarged view on when focusing and mode 1 and you will see the whole image area. Hope this helps.
Hi Peter, I hope all is well with you and your family. Thank you again for your videos, I will most definitly try that nightscape more with my em10 mk iii. Relating to your question about editing tips, sure why not, its good information, for me personally I really hate the subscription of Lightroom and I don't use it. Any other software free or buy once that works well with Olympus raws? All the best to you and your family.
Thanks, we are all ok. I hope you are and your family is too. Olympus Workspace is quite good. It has its limitations, but it can be a good start. Then there is an open source software called Darktable.
I also use the Olympus camera software like Peter suggested but I wasn't happy in every case, so after I tried a software, called topaz, I really got nice results, it works with RAW and jpg. My suggestion, use the trial version for testing, it really denoises and sharpens with one click and the handling is very comfortable.
@@ForsgardPeter I think you can. :) Under the B gear, you can have the record button do something else, or turn off completely. At least you can in the EM1 Mark 2, EM1 Mark 3, EM10 Mark 4 and EM5 Mark 3.
Handheld starlight is on EM1 & EM5 II. I really wish someone would compare the output of HHS & SSAF with HHHR. Obviously it’s not possible on the same camera or sensor… And why oh why did Olympus remove this feature from the EM1 II etc?
Peter, did you remember that you posted another file with the exact same title. I download files and save them in my computer. But because they have the same file name, I almost replaced the earlier file with today's file.
Most V,log,s like your,s assume we have the latest EMI Mk3, why? I have the EM1 Mk1, perfectly happy with it, the only instructional V,log was a "Tony & Chelsea" from 5 yrs ago.Not all of us can afford a 1k plus camera body, all Olympus rep,s are the same, you, Robin Wong, Rob Trek etc. Do a retro V,log after all the 1st pro camera, deserves better.
A good point. I use still E-M10 MKII, but have not used E-M1 for a long time. Maybe I should take look and see what I can do about that. I do have a video about E-M1. This one for example: ua-cam.com/video/oFAsWzdAD-c/v-deo.html
![Auto Focus - [5 USEFUL Tips]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SPCGSCVW4yY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Auto Focus - [5 USEFUL Tips]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks Peter for the ALL Tips !!! :-D
My pleasure!
Thank you very much... Peter...
Greetings... "SALUDOS..."
I love your videos..it is so great listening you talking about olympus, because here in my area i am the only olympus user. greatings from germany
Yes, editing tips very welcome please do more.
On my E-M10 IV I've remapped the 2x digital zoom button to "magnify", and the record button to focus peeking. Combining the two let's me focus quite accurately with a quick press from my index finger. Since I only shoot photos and do digital zoom in post, these buttons are perfect candidates for remapping, and I like how the button icons still roughly match their new functions.
Yes, tips are welcomed! I like these! Thx! 👏
A really useful video, and yes please re more editing tips. Many thanks
Thanks.
Yes, Peter, throw in an image editing tip more frequently. Regardless of which editing software one uses, the concept being explained (or “tipped”) can likely be applied.
Thank you, Peter. There is no MY SET in EM10 III. The mode setting is a great idea for MY SET setting. Now only if we can name each of My Set. I tend to forget what each does! May be that can be done in a future upgrade. I enjoy your videos.
Unfortunately Olympus removed MySets from E-M10 MKIII. I do not understand why. Maybe they want to separate the E-M10 cameras from E-M5 cameras.
Great tips. Thank you. I would appreciate more image editing tips/workflows. I'm always looking out for new ways to edit.
Thanks, I will make more editing tips in the future.
I love image editing tips...please add more.
image editing tips are always helpful
Fantastic Video Peter Congrats! More like this are very helpful.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
I think the image editing tips are fine. Thank you.
Awesome, thank you!
Love some lightroom tips in future please
Awesome video! ALWAYS USEFUL!
More software tips please, indeed any tips are welcome.
Thanks Peter! I use Ev bracketing with H-series and merge HDR 16-bit RAW file in Lr. Significantly improves colors and reduces noise almost to zero. This produces much better result than in-camera HDR.
Thanks for sharing!
Focus stacking in camera warning. If you get an in camera warning that your lens isn't compatible with focus stacking what should you do?
Basically the warning means that the camera will not do in camera focus stacking.
Instead it will produce a series of individual photographs all with a slightly different focus point. You can then use these photographs in photo editing software like Affinity Photo (possibly Photoshop but I don't use it) to perform an automatic stack within the application.
It works well with non Pro lenses, even the 75-300mm at 300mm, so a non pro lens at its weakest focal length can be helped.
Many thanks.
good as always
yes more Lightroom tips as they relate to OM-D systems
OMG, just crazy thing. Always learn something new. Thanks for tip about stabilizing, I didn't know about that. About editing, I use only Darktable (plus GIMP sometimes) because I am fan of free and open source software and I prefer it, if it's possible. It's not bad choice. Darktable manages masks many years.
Darktable is very good.
More image editing tips would be great 👍
Noted!
Thanks for the tips Peter.
Very useful. I’ve just re-assigned the top little button on the front to magnify. That will be useful. 👍😎
Good tips and the idea about more editing tips is welcome , but please identify the version of software concerned
Peter, please add more video editing tips. I really enjoy your video's about Olympus camera's and image editing tips would be very helpful.
What image editing software are you using?
Yes, love the Lr tip!
Great Lr tip, I want more. 😃
That was one of your better tip videos - good work!
This is a bit long, sorry about that, but here are two tips you might like:
Noise reduction: After a lot of experiments, my preferred way of handling noise reduction is to set H Settings Silent shutter to Max fps (60) and Frame count limiter to something like 5. Depending on the situation you might want to rise it further, but so far 5 normally tends to be enough for my purposes. If it's dark it's unlikely you will get 60fps, but that doesn't really matter, what does is that it will take a sequence of raws automatically as fast as possible. Then just put that series into your post-processing tool, be it Lightroom or something else, auto-align them makes slight movements between shots a non-issue, depending on your steadiness you will lose more or less at the edges, but that can be compensated by shooting slightly wider. Once aligned, you will get instant noise reduction with stacking. Since this is kind of a background setting, you don't have to think about it when shooting, use the settings you think are right for the photo, and as long as you are steady enough that you don't get blur in the individual photos, perfect alignment is irrelevant. All you need to do when you want this kind of post-processing noise reduction is to enable the shooting mode silent H Then keep the shutter pressed until there is no more flickering, indicating that the series is completed. Side benefit, this approach works just as well on a tripod, with the added bonus of no miss-alignment losses.
Magnify: Instead of assigning magnify to a button, I would suggest assigning Multi-Function instead. Then in the D menu, activate the multi-functions that are relevant for your shooting style. I use Magnify, S-OVF, and Peaking, normally having Magnify as the current feature.
When you hit the Multi-Function button it will toggle the current function on/off.
If you want to toggle one of the others just turn one of the dials as you press the button, then you can select what you are toggling for now in a menu. Since I don't use S-OVF and Peaking that often, but occasionally want them, and in those cases easily accessible, this allows me to have them at a button for quick access, but not blocking a button from other usages.
Thank for these! The method yo explained is a great one. It works very well.
A friend just asked how to do the stacking noise reduction, so I might as well include it here as well for those that haven't experimented with this:
1. Import to LR, select photos, ⌘G - Photo-Stacking-Group into Stack
2.Disable all sharpening and noise reduction on the stack, I use a preset, but can be done manually of course.
3. Doing adjustments to one of them, copy-paste to the rest of the stack, don't bother with cropping at this stage, unless perfectly aligned you will have to do cropping after this procedure is completed anyhow to get rid of no coverage areas.
4. Photo-Edit In-Open as Layers in Photoshop
-- in Photoshop --
5. ⌥⌘A - Select-All Layers
6. Edit-Auto Allign Layers - Auto, no vignette or Distortion
7. Layer-Smart Objects-Convert to Smart Object
8. Layer-Smart Objects-Stack Mode-Median
9. Done! Close Photoshop and you will have the result in LR
In principle you don't have to bother with the stacking in LR, but its a convenient way of not having to see them as individual photos and if you have several series of a similar scene, taking one dummy photo between each sequence will save you tons of sanity once you get it in to LR. Disgarding a photo is a lot quicker then staring at two almost identical series figuring out where one ends and the next begins.
Thanks! This is very valuable info.
Peter, these are good tips for those who choose to use custom sets of settings.
It would be an interesting video to see if/how you use this in the field. How often do you need to make additional changes? If you don't use them, it would be interesting to learn why.
I don't recommend these custom settings and have never use them, and here's why:
- they are a crutch. They will cause your skills to atrophy. You will spend your memory thinking "#1 is landscapes, #2 is for water" rather than reading the specific scene and adjusting the settings accordingly. So, you may get more pictures faster but your skills may suffer.
- the above will really be a problem if you use different bodies (that have different features).
- the chances of your settings being 100% ideal for the scene are very slim. You might as well use Automatic setting. If you want a perfect match for the scene you need to know your gear and understand photography.
- less enjoyable. Does changing a dial and pushing a button equal photography? Not for me, and not for those who want to be mindful.
- you're going to wear out your mode dial faster.
- you're going to spend your time programming your camera, likely based on someone else's settings that you found online. Boring.
- if you get a new camera it will take you longer to set it up because you've become dependent on the custom settings.
Now, if you are a spray and pray photographer who always shoots on Automatic, that's fine too.
I've enjoyed and made a living from photography for decades. Doing as much manual work as possible helps keep my mind sharp and provides enjoyment to me.
There are many features and tactics that I never/seldom use (like Pro Capture/burst BBF, shooting RAW, using protective filters and nonOEM batteries). That's what works for me.
Thanks for the info. I understand what you mean. Custom settings are great in many in my opinion. Let's say you are photographing birds. Sometimes they fly, but they might also sit on a tree. C1 one has AF settings for flying birds and C2 for example for those birds that are still. There are so many things that are possible to save to Custom modes.
But I agree that it is totally ok to set the settings on the fly. The only that matters is the image.
Thank you Peter
You are welcome.
Hej, image editing tips are always welcome Peter. What are the EM-1 "Starlight" options?
It is the same as the one in one of the tips.
Like the editing tips. I happen to like the handheld hires for noise reduction. I have a RAW and resize it back down to 20mp for most uses which makes a nice sharp low noise RAW to work with rather than the jpeg.
Thanks for sharing!
Hi Peter! Thanks a lot for a very usefull video! Maybe can you shareing a typ about the high different dinamic areal shoting?
Like the inclusion of light room tip.
I forgot to mention that I also do that magnify on the front plate button. The second front plate button I use for manual focus peaking which is the main manual focus assist tool I use for video work.
Thanks for sharing!
@@ForsgardPeter no my friend thank you for continuing to make YT an amazing place
Topaz DeNoise has transformed my image editing. Using low DeNoise and low sharpening, my photographs are improved substantially. And Sharpen AI makes unusable wildlife images acceptable if not great.
AI is amazing and as you say it has changed a lot.
yes, I can agree, just I don't use sharpen AI, denoise AI makes in my images a better job (macro) :)
Simple TIP. Invest in DXO software if you are worried about high ISO noise.
Yes, that is the way!
Good tips, Peter.
Would it make sense to give basic settings on MYSET 1 -
like - for example:
shutter speed 250, f8, ISO100?
And same for other "MYSETs" like portrait, landscape, night, sports/action, B&W... etc?
It could, but every situation is different. But of course a general ideas could work.
For Basic settings just use Automatic.
Otherwise, it would be like a car having a default cruise control.
Sorry, i didn't understand how to use the LV-Closeup setttings - and use them. I have a EM1mk3, perhaps it looks there a bit different?
You need to have the enlarged view on. I have it on one of the front buttons. Pressing that twice will enlarge the view. Then set it Mode 2 to have the enlarged view on when focusing and mode 1 and you will see the whole image area. Hope this helps.
@@ForsgardPeter Thanks!!!!!
Hi Peter, I hope all is well with you and your family.
Thank you again for your videos, I will most definitly try that nightscape more with my em10 mk iii. Relating to your question about editing tips, sure why not, its good information, for me personally I really hate the subscription of Lightroom and I don't use it.
Any other software free or buy once that works well with Olympus raws?
All the best to you and your family.
Thanks, we are all ok. I hope you are and your family is too. Olympus Workspace is quite good. It has its limitations, but it can be a good start. Then there is an open source software called Darktable.
I also use the Olympus camera software like Peter suggested but I wasn't happy in every case, so after I tried a software, called topaz, I really got nice results, it works with RAW and jpg. My suggestion, use the trial version for testing, it really denoises and sharpens with one click and the handling is very comfortable.
It would be good if you could disable the video button but I can't find any way of doing so. I have pressed it by mistake several times.
That is true, that would be a good feature.
@@ForsgardPeter I think you can. :) Under the B gear, you can have the record button do something else, or turn off completely. At least you can in the EM1 Mark 2, EM1 Mark 3, EM10 Mark 4 and EM5 Mark 3.
Handheld starlight is on EM1 & EM5 II. I really wish someone would compare the output of HHS & SSAF with HHHR. Obviously it’s not possible on the same camera or sensor… And why oh why did Olympus remove this feature from the EM1 II etc?
Ok, great that it is in E-M1 and E-M5 MKII also. It works nicely.
Where is it on EM5 II, please? I've just gone through all(?) the menu options and can't see it.
You can find it from SCN. Turn the Mode Dial to SCN and it is one the options there.
Peter, did you remember that you posted another file with the exact same title. I download files and save them in my computer. But because they have the same file name, I almost replaced the earlier file with today's file.
Yes I did, in August. You download the file and watch it later? That is an interesting way of watching UA-cam content.
@@ForsgardPeter I save them so I can look at them later in case I forgot the key points.
You you email JIP and ask them to fix the auto ISO so it goes up to 25,600?
I have talked about this with OM System a few times. Lets see what happens.
One other feature that also needs to return is to be able to take a photo when shooting video.
That is true. Quite odd that it not there anymore.
Need tips for penf.
Unfortunately I some how always forget about the Pen-F. It has about the same features as E-M10 MKII + the special image looks.
@@ForsgardPeter , I will watch again with your comments in mind.
Most V,log,s like your,s assume we have the latest EMI Mk3, why? I have the EM1 Mk1, perfectly happy with it, the only instructional V,log was a "Tony & Chelsea" from 5 yrs ago.Not all of us can afford a 1k plus camera body, all Olympus rep,s are the same, you, Robin Wong, Rob Trek etc. Do a retro V,log after all the 1st pro camera, deserves better.
A good point. I use still E-M10 MKII, but have not used E-M1 for a long time. Maybe I should take look and see what I can do about that. I do have a video about E-M1. This one for example: ua-cam.com/video/oFAsWzdAD-c/v-deo.html
@@ForsgardPeter Thank,s Peter, wil lcheck it out.