Spencer I am always amazed at your craftsmanship, your attention to the smallest details, and your problem solving solutions. For a young man you seem to have the knowledge and experience of many, many finish carpenters and cabinet makers. I honestly think one would be hard pressed to find another person with your talents. Well done, as always great content. Hope your wife continues to reoup
Great video Spencer! I'm a finish carpenter in northwest montana. Been working independently for about 3 years and I've learned everything i know from your videos. Thank you for all the knowledge you share, Im always buying through your affiliate links!
Cutting down material in the field with just a job site table saw can be a nightmare when those pieces are bowed. I love your table saw setup with the feeder and the feather guards that guide the pieces against the fence. You basically help the material in and the saw does the work itself. Must save you alot of energy throughout the day. Thanks for showing us this amazing process and i cant wait for next video with the install
I have used every technique imaginable for removing glue squeeze out, so I say this from experience. The problem with using a paint scraper (carbide, metal blade, whatever) or a chisel (sharp or dull) is that removing cured/dry glue runs a risk of damaging the wood. The dried glue is harder than the wood, and chipping it off with a scraper or chisel can result in the glue pulling out part of the wood (splinters/chips/chunks) as the glue is chipped off. The damage can range from annoying to disastrous. I understand that the above method is preferred by many woodworkers as it avoids making a big, smeary, gluey mess. That’s a risk if you are sloppy when wiping off fresh/wet glue with a wet cloth. It’s worth mentioning that this isn’t a problem for paint-grade work, and only an issue for stain-grade work. However, I feel that the best, truly failsafe, method lies in between these two choices. I always let the glue begin to set up and get tacky and slightly rubbery. At that stage, I take a sharp chisel and SLOWLY run it down the glue joint. This cleanly (no smears) and safely (no wood damage) removes the soft glue. Be sure to wipe the chisel off often to keep the joint neat & clean. This method eliminates the risk of chip-out (from dried glue) and smeared glue (from wet glue). A couple important things to point out: 1. It should be obvious, but this entire discussion is based on using standard PVA glue only. 2. The above method only applies to two boards that edge-glued together or outside miters. For inside miters, use the drinking straw method. 3. This is not a hack or a trick or a treat (well, maybe a treat) but simply a technique or method. Let’s be adults, ladies and gentlemen, and use adult language.
I really appreciate your craftsmanship but really envy your workshop! I like to see that you sleep over your project and take the time to plan in termss of clients needs and satisfaction without neglecting quality and durability. As I always say; the success of any project resides in its planning; which you do cleverly and perfectly. I can't wait to see part two on site! 😍.... but your shop; it's unfair!! I'm so jealous! 😝
@32:20 Holy cow. My heart skipped a beat. I thought you were going to crash into your panel! Also for us DeWalt tracksaw users, the Festool track works perfectly fine with DeWalt tracksaw. So that mean means you can use the TSO square rails. Benchdog UK makes a square rail for DeWalt track, but it's a little more of a pain to use and you have to cut the strip to install it on the bidirectional dewalt track.
Love your videos. You are a very good teacher. I suspect Mike Farrington's tablesaw disc sander would be useful on this project. Thanks for your content. As good as it gets!
Great video as always! I always thought 4/4 hardwood was a rough cut 1” true and finished S2S was 13/16”. 5/4 hardwood is 1 1/4” true, finished 1S is 1 1/8”, 2S is 1 1/16”. Lots of fractions to deal with!!!
Another great teaching video. One option for removing the glue squeeze out is to use a 2" carbide paint scraper. Often a dull chisel has tiny nicks that could introduce small scratches on the panel. Thanks for sharing.
Spencer, You can greatly increase you speed and efficiency if you use a paint scraper to remove your glue squeeze out instead of a chisel. It is so much faster and better.
Top quality as always. I learned a lot from your videos. I am doing exactly the way you do, customer's money are made by their Hard work. So I do respect that!
Get one of those short Festool rails for miter cuts on short material. It will save you some bending and wear and tear on your back, plus its easier to wrangle than the longer rails.
Wow -- I always seem to have trouble with tearing if I use router in clockwise direction. is this ccw move good only with the very small bits?... or am i doing something wrong? Absolutely THE best carpentry/building channel on UA-cam.
I like the way you did this- it's clever, and the craftsmanship is there, plain and simple (actively trying to NOT be a hater). It would have been cool to see this with a reglet detail and stop bead on the drywall.... but i suppose you'd want that detail to carry to the other trim. Anyway....
Awesome. Love it. Learned a new approach to making paneled openings I hadn’t considered. I have done many of these using cope and stick router bits,shaker style for this application. For me, the cope and stick router bit approach is much easier, faster and more accurate. And flat panels or raised panels can be used.
@ Interesting idea. Sounds like too much work. I cut all rails and stiles to size then use one router table setup to rout all the copes, fast and easy with a ¼” wide groove for the panels. Then I reset the router with the stick bit and rout the ends of the rails. It glues up all at once using 23 gauge pins to set everything while the glue dries. So easy and fits just right.
Great job. If you would of installed the rails to match the direction of the grains of the stiles, I think it would of looked even better; since these are being stained.
Question: Why don't you invest in a drum sander? is there something you don't like about them? Love you video's, glad your back posting again. We missed you!
A wide belt sander is my number one goal to get in the shop asap, I need one bad. I just have to get three phase hooked up first. I have waited because I want to go past drum sander and straight to dual head wide belt.
I find it remarkable that with all the care taken in the making of the panels, some of the bottom rails have quite noticeable knots on what otherwise appears to be "clear" material. Care to comment on why the knots were not cut around when the glue-up boards were cut to width?
His bottom rail glue up didn't match color or grain well either. I don't think he does much stain grade work which requires more detail to color and grain.
I switched to a Kapex about a year ago. I have put about 1000 miles on it already. It has saved my back ( light , easy to set up) and so far the new series has held up pretty solid moving around sight to sight. My only complaint is the blade? I was cutting smaller oak trim and the Blade wants to bite constantly! Do you or anyone know where I can get a better blade. ( I hv Infinity’s Melamine/ Plywood Blade and it works well but need a good blade w/ little hook)?
I just experienced the heavy swirls on my project after using the Rotex. The lighter setting seemed to help so curious if the other sander you’re using is worth purchasing?
The sander I am using is a 5mm stroke which is still pretty aggressive by cabinet shop standareds. A 3mm stroke would probably be better but I have balance finish quality with time and find the 5mm to work best for the type of work I'm doing. Yes, the rotex will be very aggressive and makes some nasty swirl marks. But for me, since I don't have a wide belt sander it is essential.
I'm concerned about gluing and screwing 11" of solid oak to crossgrain oak, locking the wide piece in place on the end inviting expansion/contraction splits. But modern homes keep their climate control pretty steady, hope the shop is similar to the site.
Are these jambs about 1 in proud of the drywall on each side? Definitely not sure about the overall look that you show in the beginning of your video. Like always though, great workmanship!
Efficient craftsmanship! Always interesting to see a site trained guy using a tracksaw,while a shop guy would choose a miter or table saw with a sled.😅
Now I've got a sliding table saw, so it will definitely be the tool so choice going forward. My miter saw in the shop does not have the crosscut capacity for this width.
@@InsiderCarpentry I installed all of the interior framing in the Dallas home where I am working, all with LSL. The walls are plumb, straight, and corners are square, only a few exceptions. So, we get close, very very close.
@@InsiderCarpentry That said, this is my point about use of a dado to accept the drywall on the back side of your applied panel. If the wall is so far out of plumb that a 1/2" dado would not compensate, the framers should be held to a higher standard. Conversely, the use of a dado eliminates the mudwork and caulking (Grrrrr!) where the drywall kisses the back of the applied panel. I will try to send you a couple pics and a video where I demonstrate how well this can work. I do understand that you have to collaborate with the other trades, but the dado technique is worthy of adding to your Whiskey Box, Spencer.
Great video to highlight pocket screws for commercial mill work. My concern would be expansion/ contractions of the wide bottom rail. Depending on the humidity fluctuation it could get up to 1/4". That is enough to cause splits no matter how many screws are used. This is a case where a pinned and modified mortise and tenon would insure space for wood movement. The other option would have been to use edge banded oak ply. There's no way to handicap the potential humidity change in the house but given it has a contemporary HVAC system its safe to say it should be minimal. So my comment is given to avoid the potential of building in a long term call back mistake. But we're talking about the details here and one very important detail that we carpenters need to consider, is to take a page out of our brother and sister furniture builders concerns for wood movement. Solid timber panels of the size the design required will expand and contract! That's a fact. It's just a guess if the environment we're installing into will provide the right conditions for it to cause the worst scenario I described.
You mean that panel will cup a little, I agree, i think you will.still see a joint line even if you where to do a loose tenon aka dominos and pocket screws.. but dominos would help minimize cupping
The term quarters shouldn't be applied to S4S stock it's meant to describe rough sawn boards just off the green line at the saw mill before it dried and planned,,, just saying
Quats is quats. S4s is apples and oranges when speaking about thickness and width. If you're actually going to mill it, or even order it, the supplier will start with 5/4 to shoot for an inch. If anyone out there can get a full inch out of 4/4, I would love to know your secret. Love this guy, but it's probably a great statement to get dummies to argue😅
I have actually had extensive arguments with my lumber yard about this. Apparently there is not standardized terms used in this industry and I have to literally spell out the exact finished dimension I want because apparently 4/4 means different things to different people... its annoying.
@@InsiderCarpentryAnd then there are the differences in nominal sized lumber. 2x4 is 1 1/2x3 1/2 unless it’s 1 3/8 by something. Measure twice, buy once.
Heaven forbid that after creating content for six years and publishing 250+ videos a creator should try to earn income to get compensated for their time and effort...
Obviously, you work in an office with no skills of value. When your time is actually worth something and you spend it making a video instead of making money, you should get something back. Why don't you go watch one of the million videos promoting gambling sites if you're so offended? I assume you don't watch TV or listen to the radio because of the commercials.
Spencer I am always amazed at your craftsmanship, your attention to the smallest details, and your problem solving solutions. For a young man you seem to have the knowledge and experience of many, many finish carpenters and cabinet makers. I honestly think one would be hard pressed to find another person with your talents. Well done, as always great content. Hope your wife continues to reoup
Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate it!
BTW, I have always liked how you mix craftsmanship vs efficiency in your work.
Love the craftsmanship. Hate trends, hate modern homes.
That is my opinion Spencer is on of the best on the platform but these modern homes leave less room for millwork
Agreed. Spencer does good work, no question. But the design aesthetic of people building this 5000 or 7000 sq ft McMansions is horrible.
Great video Spencer! I'm a finish carpenter in northwest montana. Been working independently for about 3 years and I've learned everything i know from your videos. Thank you for all the knowledge you share, Im always buying through your affiliate links!
I'm glad you've been able to make a living off of it, keep up the great work! Thanks for the kind words!
At 0:48, you are not a professional carpenter… you are a professional finish carpenter.❤
Cutting down material in the field with just a job site table saw can be a nightmare when those pieces are bowed. I love your table saw setup with the feeder and the feather guards that guide the pieces against the fence. You basically help the material in and the saw does the work itself. Must save you alot of energy throughout the day. Thanks for showing us this amazing process and i cant wait for next video with the install
I have used every technique imaginable for removing glue squeeze out, so I say this from experience. The problem with using a paint scraper (carbide, metal blade, whatever) or a chisel (sharp or dull) is that removing cured/dry glue runs a risk of damaging the wood. The dried glue is harder than the wood, and chipping it off with a scraper or chisel can result in the glue pulling out part of the wood (splinters/chips/chunks) as the glue is chipped off. The damage can range from annoying to disastrous.
I understand that the above method is preferred by many woodworkers as it avoids making a big, smeary, gluey mess. That’s a risk if you are sloppy when wiping off fresh/wet glue with a wet cloth. It’s worth mentioning that this isn’t a problem for paint-grade work, and only an issue for stain-grade work.
However, I feel that the best, truly failsafe, method lies in between these two choices. I always let the glue begin to set up and get tacky and slightly rubbery. At that stage, I take a sharp chisel and SLOWLY run it down the glue joint. This cleanly (no smears) and safely (no wood damage) removes the soft glue. Be sure to wipe the chisel off often to keep the joint neat & clean. This method eliminates the risk of chip-out (from dried glue) and smeared glue (from wet glue).
A couple important things to point out:
1. It should be obvious, but this entire discussion is based on using standard PVA glue only.
2. The above method only applies to two boards that edge-glued together or outside miters. For inside miters, use the drinking straw method.
3. This is not a hack or a trick or a treat (well, maybe a treat) but simply a technique or method. Let’s be adults, ladies and gentlemen, and use adult language.
I really appreciate your craftsmanship but really envy your workshop! I like to see that you sleep over your project and take the time to plan in termss of clients needs and satisfaction without neglecting quality and durability. As I always say; the success of any project resides in its planning; which you do cleverly and perfectly. I can't wait to see part two on site! 😍.... but your shop; it's unfair!! I'm so jealous! 😝
Your shop is beautiful man
Thanks man! It's a work in progress but I'm happy with it.
Outstanding work, Spencer!
You always have great ideas and techniques to get the job done to perfection !!! Love those self adjusting clamps.
@32:20 Holy cow. My heart skipped a beat. I thought you were going to crash into your panel! Also for us DeWalt tracksaw users, the Festool track works perfectly fine with DeWalt tracksaw. So that mean means you can use the TSO square rails. Benchdog UK makes a square rail for DeWalt track, but it's a little more of a pain to use and you have to cut the strip to install it on the bidirectional dewalt track.
dude, I thought we were about to see a blooper and a bleeping. Guess thats why he's him though.
Love your videos. You are a very good teacher. I suspect Mike Farrington's tablesaw disc sander would be useful on this project. Thanks for your content. As good as it gets!
Another great video. I’m surprised you haven’t ended up in fine home building magazine yet.
Great video as always! I always thought 4/4 hardwood was a rough cut 1” true and finished S2S was 13/16”. 5/4 hardwood is 1 1/4” true, finished 1S is 1 1/8”, 2S is 1 1/16”. Lots of fractions to deal with!!!
Thank you for another great video. I always look forward to all of the datil and learning from you.
Another great teaching video.
One option for removing the glue squeeze out is to use a 2" carbide paint scraper. Often a dull chisel has tiny nicks that could introduce small scratches on the panel.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, that's a great tip!
Spencer, You can greatly increase you speed and efficiency if you use a paint scraper to remove your glue squeeze out instead of a chisel. It is so much faster and better.
Top quality as always. I learned a lot from your videos. I am doing exactly the way you do, customer's money are made by their Hard work. So I do respect that!
Great video Spencer. A Happy and Healthy New Year to you and your family.
Those look so gorgeous! The detail adds such a high end look. Nice work~
love the shop content
Get one of those short Festool rails for miter cuts on short material. It will save you some bending and wear and tear on your back, plus its easier to wrangle than the longer rails.
Wow -- I always seem to have trouble with tearing if I use router in clockwise direction. is this ccw move good only with the very small bits?... or am i doing something wrong? Absolutely THE best carpentry/building channel on UA-cam.
Great tips and tricks! Thank you for these type videos
I like the way you did this- it's clever, and the craftsmanship is there, plain and simple (actively trying to NOT be a hater). It would have been cool to see this with a reglet detail and stop bead on the drywall.... but i suppose you'd want that detail to carry to the other trim. Anyway....
Wow, a reglet detail would take this up a level.
Awesome. Love it. Learned a new approach to making paneled openings I hadn’t considered. I have done many of these using cope and stick router bits,shaker style for this application. For me, the cope and stick router bit approach is much easier, faster and more accurate. And flat panels or raised panels can be used.
What do you think about a glue up of 1-inch thick by the height needed. Then, basically rout everything out so you have the stiles and rails left over
@ Interesting idea. Sounds like too much work. I cut all rails and stiles to size then use one router table setup to rout all the copes, fast and easy with a ¼” wide groove for the panels. Then I reset the router with the stick bit and rout the ends of the rails. It glues up all at once using 23 gauge pins to set everything while the glue dries. So easy and fits just right.
I think was more of a “check out the shop” video, with a little white oak on the side 😂
Nice.
always a superb production
Looks great
Spencer LOVES using the words "Wonky" and "Strategic"!! If he had a nickel for every time he used those words he'd have a LOT of nickels!!! LOL 🙂
Great job. If you would of installed the rails to match the direction of the grains of the stiles, I think it would of looked even better; since these are being stained.
Question: Why don't you invest in a drum sander? is there something you don't like about them? Love you video's, glad your back posting again. We missed you!
A wide belt sander is my number one goal to get in the shop asap, I need one bad. I just have to get three phase hooked up first. I have waited because I want to go past drum sander and straight to dual head wide belt.
Great video
Must make sure you get in those practice golf drives in at the shop .
Was the final sanding done with your 150/5 sander? The level of detail and pacing of the video were spot on. I picked up a lot of great tips.
Yes it was, Soon I'll have a wide belt sander for the aggressive sand and finish with a less aggressive orbital sander.
Thanks for addressing the nine foot doors with eight feet of plywood - another great cost reduction planned in advance.
I find it remarkable that with all the care taken in the making of the panels, some of the bottom rails have quite noticeable knots on what otherwise appears to be "clear" material. Care to comment on why the knots were not cut around when the glue-up boards were cut to width?
His bottom rail glue up didn't match color or grain well either. I don't think he does much stain grade work which requires more detail to color and grain.
nice shop
At 15:16, why did you hold the rail up an 1/8th from the bottom? Do the stiles get trimmed flush at some point?
That way if there is a hump in the floor it isn't affected by it.
I'm waiting to see how the curved stairs turned out in the Hidden in swing door video.
Suprised you didn't reinstall the pocket hole screw after cutting the 45 with the track saw. Beautiful work
I switched to a Kapex about a year ago. I have put about 1000 miles on it already. It has saved my back ( light , easy to set up) and so far the new series has held up pretty solid moving around sight to sight. My only complaint is the blade? I was cutting smaller oak trim and the Blade wants to bite constantly!
Do you or anyone know where I can get a better blade. ( I hv Infinity’s Melamine/ Plywood Blade and it works well but need a good blade w/ little hook)?
You should try out new Hilti slide compound saw...😊
What's so good about it?
@vanman3752 I l like the way it is made the Hilti service centers...
Precise cuts ...felt more
Power
Have you ever considered getting a tapered sanding disk for your table saw for removing saw marks?
I find it faster and effective to just run it through my planer on edge. That might be a good option for wider material thought!
I just experienced the heavy swirls on my project after using the Rotex. The lighter setting seemed to help so curious if the other sander you’re using is worth purchasing?
The sander I am using is a 5mm stroke which is still pretty aggressive by cabinet shop standareds. A 3mm stroke would probably be better but I have balance finish quality with time and find the 5mm to work best for the type of work I'm doing. Yes, the rotex will be very aggressive and makes some nasty swirl marks. But for me, since I don't have a wide belt sander it is essential.
S4S is a bit more expensive than rough cut, correct? Do you find S4S is worth the extra cost to save the time of milling down rough cut?
i don't think you ever mentioned it in a video, but maybe i missed it, i'd love to know more about your magnetic mount for your power feeder...
It's by magswitch, I made video on it last year.
@InsiderCarpentry thanks I'll try and find it. Keep putting out this great content.
I'm concerned about gluing and screwing 11" of solid oak to crossgrain oak, locking the wide piece in place on the end inviting expansion/contraction splits. But modern homes keep their climate control pretty steady, hope the shop is similar to the site.
Nice work! You satisfied one of my curiosities. Is there a glue wipe off spot on your pants just like on your tool belt? 😀
Always!
So the oak wont split when you're driving the pocket screws into the stiles? Cool build.
Pocket screws have a cutting tip that aid in assembly.
Are these jambs about 1 in proud of the drywall on each side? Definitely not sure about the overall look that you show in the beginning of your video. Like always though, great workmanship!
It’s time for a panel saw.
I recently got a sliding table saw! stay tuned!
I know there is probably a good reason but why make a rabbet for the drywall?
Customer wanted full 1" thick showing.
Is that a drinking fountain in your shop I see!?
Yep, the origian owner had it installed. It's handy!
Spencer, where did you get your lumber from? I’m a woodworker in Fort Wayne and have been looking for a good hardwood supplier
Try wible lumber if you’re looking for hardwoods
@@briansnyder9496I went to Oak Tree Supply and Holmes and Co. and got some white oak this week but I haven’t made it to Wibles U-Pick yet
Mine come through Home Lumber
Efficient craftsmanship!
Always interesting to see a site trained guy using a tracksaw,while a shop guy would choose a miter or table saw with a sled.😅
Now I've got a sliding table saw, so it will definitely be the tool so choice going forward. My miter saw in the shop does not have the crosscut capacity for this width.
I would have put a dado on the back side to accept the drywall, no mud or caulking required.
Walls are not even close to that perfect even in well framed homes.
@@InsiderCarpentry I installed all of the interior framing in the Dallas home where I am working, all with LSL. The walls are plumb, straight, and corners are square, only a few exceptions. So, we get close, very very close.
@@InsiderCarpentry That said, this is my point about use of a dado to accept the drywall on the back side of your applied panel. If the wall is so far out of plumb that a 1/2" dado would not compensate, the framers should be held to a higher standard. Conversely, the use of a dado eliminates the mudwork and caulking (Grrrrr!) where the drywall kisses the back of the applied panel. I will try to send you a couple pics and a video where I demonstrate how well this can work. I do understand that you have to collaborate with the other trades, but the dado technique is worthy of adding to your Whiskey Box, Spencer.
Great video to highlight pocket screws for commercial mill work. My concern would be expansion/ contractions of the wide bottom rail. Depending on the humidity fluctuation it could get up to 1/4". That is enough to cause splits no matter how many screws are used. This is a case where a pinned and modified mortise and tenon would insure space for wood movement. The other option would have been to use edge banded oak ply. There's no way to handicap the potential humidity change in the house but given it has a contemporary HVAC system its safe to say it should be minimal. So my comment is given to avoid the potential of building in a long term call back mistake. But we're talking about the details here and one very important detail that we carpenters need to consider, is to take a page out of our brother and sister furniture builders concerns for wood movement. Solid timber panels of the size the design required will expand and contract! That's a fact. It's just a guess if the environment we're installing into will provide the right conditions for it to cause the worst scenario I described.
Read up on how wood movement works and look at the grain direction. There is virtually no movement at length with the rail oriented the way it is.
Its skinny stuff he's using movement forces will be small,
You mean that panel will cup a little, I agree, i think you will.still see a joint line even if you where to do a loose tenon aka dominos and pocket screws.. but dominos would help minimize cupping
So why not just use 1 inch oak instead of plywood?
*Welcome BaCK*
Always enjoy your videos. 5/4 =1 1/16”, 4/4 =13/16”.Just saying.
The term quarters shouldn't be applied to S4S stock it's meant to describe rough sawn boards just off the green line at the saw mill before it dried and planned,,, just saying
@@pauljenkinson8798I like what you’re saying.😂😂
Watching from Vancouver Island 🏝️🇨🇦
Quats is quats. S4s is apples and oranges when speaking about thickness and width. If you're actually going to mill it, or even order it, the supplier will start with 5/4 to shoot for an inch. If anyone out there can get a full inch out of 4/4, I would love to know your secret.
Love this guy, but it's probably a great statement to get dummies to argue😅
I have actually had extensive arguments with my lumber yard about this. Apparently there is not standardized terms used in this industry and I have to literally spell out the exact finished dimension I want because apparently 4/4 means different things to different people... its annoying.
@@InsiderCarpentryAnd then there are the differences in nominal sized lumber. 2x4 is 1 1/2x3 1/2 unless it’s 1 3/8 by something. Measure twice, buy once.
Been getting pretty product-y on this channel of late.
Heaven forbid that after creating content for six years and publishing 250+ videos a creator should try to earn income to get compensated for their time and effort...
Sensitive fella
Obviously, you work in an office with no skills of value. When your time is actually worth something and you spend it making a video instead of making money, you should get something back. Why don't you go watch one of the million videos promoting gambling sites if you're so offended? I assume you don't watch TV or listen to the radio because of the commercials.