Great to see full scratchbuilding like this! I note that, when machining the sides, you appear to grip the workpiece at the bottom of the jaws using a rectangular block. (apologies if I am wrong, not easy to see). This is not the most stable clamping, especially when you are milling left to right, meaning that the cut is away from the back jaw. Clamping further up would be more stable- one way would be a U shaped jig with the legs against the front and back handle pads, and the centre against the moving jaw. I would still machine right to left, cutting towards the fixed jaw. Tapping the holes- standard method is to use a tap-follower ( an easy shop build, or readily available) in the mill (or drill) so that the whole tapping process can be done while alignment is assured. Enjoying the series!
I watched the video of using a 101 and found it so interesting! Now I have watched the casting process. Why did you switch to casting? Secondly why do you use brass? I know to heat steel or cast is more complicated - but brass well durable and somewhat easy to work with, for me is so expensive. I might try aluminum or maybe a bronze. I sure do like what you are doing and thank you for sharing.
I switched to casting because I didn’t like the idea of drilling a hole through the sole of a 101, and wanted to make a body that could easily accept a tote and knob. Plus I’m naturally a curious person and I wanted to see if I could pull it off. I use brass because it’s pretty easy to cast. I’ve also used bronze is the past as well. I’ve never used aluminum and don’t have any intentions of making a plane or plane part with aluminum, just not a fan of that metal on a plane.
@@DaveCorinth I agree aluminum is not a good choice for a working plane - it might be ok for a show piece. For beginners it can be an easer metal to obtain and work. I would say you are well on your way with your casting. Your miniatures are fantastic!
Hello Dave, I’m by no means an expert but I was wondering if brass is a good choice for a long lasting plane. Isn’t brass too soft? Thanks for making these videos! I enjoy them very much.
For small planes brass is more than durable enough for planing. If it were a larger plane or one that would see heavier duty work like a scrub plane or a Jack plane brass would wear quickly. But for small planes that do light work brass is a good material.
@@DaveCorinth It looks like you already have the workflow in place, so it would be easy to experiment with other castable alloys. Something like a 10% tin bronze (by weight, the rest copper) would be a bit harder than brass, and as an added bonus, it wouldn't have any zinc to burn and make toxic fumes. A 10% aluminum bronze would be trickier to cast well due to more shrinkage issues, but if you pulled it off the stuff approaches steel in toughness. Also, the golden color of aluminum bronze is really nice.
Wear is not a problem- these are for looking at, not using. They are very pretty, but a block plane will do the same job- and be more comfortable to hold, as well as having (if you wish) depth of cut, lateral and mouth size fine adjustment. These will sit happily on a shelf, gathering dust but not rust... And be well admired.
Hi Dave, another informative video, thanks. Question; what blasting medium do you use for blasting the brass and would it be the same medium you would use to blast the cast iron of a Stanley smoothing plane?
Great to see full scratchbuilding like this!
I note that, when machining the sides, you appear to grip the workpiece at the bottom of the jaws using a rectangular block. (apologies if I am wrong, not easy to see). This is not the most stable clamping, especially when you are milling left to right, meaning that the cut is away from the back jaw. Clamping further up would be more stable- one way would be a U shaped jig with the legs against the front and back handle pads, and the centre against the moving jaw. I would still machine right to left, cutting towards the fixed jaw.
Tapping the holes- standard method is to use a tap-follower ( an easy shop build, or readily available) in the mill (or drill) so that the whole tapping process can be done while alignment is assured.
Enjoying the series!
You are an amazing craftsman, I totally enjoyed the videos. The planes are awesome!
Glad you like them!
Watching your video Dave from the UK, great video mate, best wishes to you and your family.
Thank you very much. I just posted the 3rd and final video showing the final assembly of the plane.
so cool to watch this process
Mesmerizing
what a cool process
once again nice job 😉
Amazing 👍
I really appreciate you sharing this with us. I’ve always been interested in sand casting and find it to be fascinating. Thanks for the look into it.
Outstanding!
Thank you kindly!
Sure did enjoy it Dave. You are a great craftsman mate!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job! Looking forward to the rest of the series
Very nice process! we are waiting the another part! Regards from Chile
Nice
Klasse❤
Wow! Great video! You make it look so easy.
Great video once again!!! Thanks so much for sharing!!!
Have you considered that not allowing for lateral iron adjustment would require sharpening the iron perfectly square every single time?
Don’t we all sharpen our irons perfectly square? Just kidding. It does have a small amount of lateral to allow for some out of square sharpening.
I watched the video of using a 101 and found it so interesting! Now I have watched the casting process. Why did you switch to casting? Secondly why do you use brass? I know to heat steel or cast is more complicated - but brass well durable and somewhat easy to work with, for me is so expensive. I might try aluminum or maybe a bronze. I sure do like what you are doing and thank you for sharing.
I switched to casting because I didn’t like the idea of drilling a hole through the sole of a 101, and wanted to make a body that could easily accept a tote and knob. Plus I’m naturally a curious person and I wanted to see if I could pull it off. I use brass because it’s pretty easy to cast. I’ve also used bronze is the past as well. I’ve never used aluminum and don’t have any intentions of making a plane or plane part with aluminum, just not a fan of that metal on a plane.
@@DaveCorinth I agree aluminum is not a good choice for a working plane - it might be ok for a show piece. For beginners it can be an easer metal to obtain and work. I would say you are well on your way with your casting. Your miniatures are fantastic!
Hello Dave, I’m by no means an expert but I was wondering if brass is a good choice for a long lasting plane. Isn’t brass too soft? Thanks for making these videos! I enjoy them very much.
For small planes brass is more than durable enough for planing. If it were a larger plane or one that would see heavier duty work like a scrub plane or a Jack plane brass would wear quickly. But for small planes that do light work brass is a good material.
@@DaveCorinth It looks like you already have the workflow in place, so it would be easy to experiment with other castable alloys. Something like a 10% tin bronze (by weight, the rest copper) would be a bit harder than brass, and as an added bonus, it wouldn't have any zinc to burn and make toxic fumes. A 10% aluminum bronze would be trickier to cast well due to more shrinkage issues, but if you pulled it off the stuff approaches steel in toughness. Also, the golden color of aluminum bronze is really nice.
Wear is not a problem- these are for looking at, not using. They are very pretty, but a block plane will do the same job- and be more comfortable to hold, as well as having (if you wish) depth of cut, lateral and mouth size fine adjustment.
These will sit happily on a shelf, gathering dust but not rust... And be well admired.
Hi Dave, another informative video, thanks. Question; what blasting medium do you use for blasting the brass and would it be the same medium you would use to blast the cast iron of a Stanley smoothing plane?
I use a very fine white silica sand to etch the bodies. For the removal of rust and old japanning on older planes I use a im heavier black sand.
Thanks Dave.
Great video do you sell the casting as a diy kit
I have through about a DIY kit, but don’t know how far I should take the process. Any ideas?
@@DaveCorinth Just a rough casting and maybe a few dimensions.
Do you intend to produce these to sell?
I do sell them, I make small batches and them post them to my Facebook. I am currently working on a website to make these more available.