The whole time I was wondering why you routed the cable back into the cab just to have to go back out through the firewall to the tb. I hadn’t thought of just connecting it to the pedal linkage. Great idea. Thank you!
Awesome video!!! I just had this idea for a cable throttle controller for Toyota and my search found your video. Of course my Toyota is newer than yours but planning on doing the same concept. Just curious, what are the 3 gear shift leavers? I know one is manual transmission and one is 4 wheel drive shifter. The 3rd is for what? Never seen one in a Toyota before.
The extra lever is there because I have a 2nd transfer case reduction box (Marlin Crawler). Basically, I have stacked gear reduction boxes behind the transmission. The lever right behind the shifter is attached to a Toyota transfer case reduction box that selects between high and low range and then the rear-most lever is attached to the original reduction box that selects between 2wd and 4wd high and 4wd low. If I'm in 4wd Low Low I go really, really slow with lots of torque. It's mainly for rock crawling, but comes in handy for other things. One cool thing is that if I'm in low range in the front case, but 2wd in the rear case I get true 2wd low range which, since I have a rear locker, is a really nice mode for most easy to moderate trails. Here's a link to Marlin Crawler's website where you can learn about transfer case crawl boxes (I'm not affiliated with Marlin Crawler in any way, I just love their products.): www.marlincrawler.com/about
I think it would really come down to how much leverage you could create in your setup. The clutch pedal usually takes quite a bit more force than the throttle to actuate so I don't think a bicycle brake lever and a wire would be enough to get the job done. I bet someone has done it though and gotten it to work.
Get a electric line lock n plumb it to the clutch lol it works lol you'll have a button for your clutch. So you step the clutch, hold ur button of choice, release the clutch pedal, release button when you ready to launch
Good idea! Hey I have a 92 and have an issue with the steering drag link clipping the leaf spring mount, have you encountered this before? Any idea's for a fix? Cheers
If you can, send me a picture of the issue and I'll have a better idea of what's going on. ( email: WheeliePete@outlook.com ) Is it a solid axle swapped rig or is this a non-US vehicle that came with the solid front axle and leaf springs from the factory? When we swap solid axles under the later trucks here we use high-clearance cross-over steering arms that route both the tie-rod and drag-link above the leaf springs. The only way to hit the leaf spring mounts would be to have huge leaf packs and move the axle way forward by drilling the spring perches and having a forward mounted front spring hanger. We also move the power steering box forward on the frame to keep from hitting stuff and to keep the drag link and tie-rod in parallel. I guess you could also clip the mount with the drag-link by having a pitman arm that is dropping too far and not having a proper bump-stop to halt upward travel of the axle and leaf spring... I did a video a bunch of years ago of a buddy's truck we were building and I think there's some detailed pictures of the cross-over steering setup in there... ua-cam.com/video/KK_mQcCSvJA/v-deo.html
@@WheeliePete ok I'll send you some pics tomoz, it's a non US (Australian) factory solid axle and leaf spring set up, someone told me it must have some sort of lift kit but I can't see evidence of it unless the springs are bigger like you mentioned.
I'm interested in doing this setup only going to the pedal for simplicity but I wonder, would you have enough leverage with one of those smaller shifter friction levers to operate the pedal? Looking at doing this on a 5 speed 3rd gen 4runner.
The friction shifter is good for raising the idle, but then it's going to stay there until you physically push the shifter lever back. I bet if you attach to the pedal linkage high enough it'll have enough leverage to work it though.
@@WheeliePete Yup I know full well it will remain higher idle, that is the exact feature I want it for. I also have small hands so I'm really not sure whether I can easily use a brake lever style anyway.
Most quality friction shifters will also have the ability to adjust the amount of friction. You could play with that setting and get it set so it just barely holds the throttle open, then it'll take very little effort to return the shifter to the closed position. Some of the old thumbshifters had a selector between index detents and friction. That might be good too.
Bike cables are usually twisted multi strand stainless steel. I've never break tested one, but I would think it would take 20# without issue. What I would be wondering about would be the ability to get enough linear pull to activate the clutch.
I didn't touch on that in the video, but yeah, in double low range with my crawl-box engaged, I really don't have to use the hand throttle. There's so much torque in double-low that you can stand on the brake and just let the clutch out and the crawler will pull right through the brake at idle. I've put them (hand throttle) in every wheeling rig I've owned or built for the last 20+ years though so I still use it a lot out of habit. It's still pretty helpful when I'm just puttering around the woods in 2wd or single low.
As a bike mechanic and manual Hilux surf owner I love the blend of tech! Great idea. I'm doing it.
The whole time I was wondering why you routed the cable back into the cab just to have to go back out through the firewall to the tb. I hadn’t thought of just connecting it to the pedal linkage. Great idea. Thank you!
at first i tried using a choke cable but it didn't quite work out, came across this video and used some of my old bike parts and this works great!
Really great idea and explanation on how to construct one. Superb video !!
So effective, as an mtb trial rider, everything will be getting this mod. I have many bike brakes Handles to use up.
Been a long time Pete. Your channel was my first subscribe.
This is a superbly awsome tutorial. Thank you Sir.
Nice job Pete!!!
I always used my heel.
But I did make a hand throttle for ‘cruise control’
This is why I’m doing it lol.
Top ....simples ,segura e objetiva 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Great video!
Well done.
Awesome video!!!
I just had this idea for a cable throttle controller for Toyota and my search found your video. Of course my Toyota is newer than yours but planning on doing the same concept. Just curious, what are the 3 gear shift leavers? I know one is manual transmission and one is 4 wheel drive shifter. The 3rd is for what? Never seen one in a Toyota before.
The extra lever is there because I have a 2nd transfer case reduction box (Marlin Crawler). Basically, I have stacked gear reduction boxes behind the transmission. The lever right behind the shifter is attached to a Toyota transfer case reduction box that selects between high and low range and then the rear-most lever is attached to the original reduction box that selects between 2wd and 4wd high and 4wd low. If I'm in 4wd Low Low I go really, really slow with lots of torque. It's mainly for rock crawling, but comes in handy for other things. One cool thing is that if I'm in low range in the front case, but 2wd in the rear case I get true 2wd low range which, since I have a rear locker, is a really nice mode for most easy to moderate trails. Here's a link to Marlin Crawler's website where you can learn about transfer case crawl boxes (I'm not affiliated with Marlin Crawler in any way, I just love their products.): www.marlincrawler.com/about
Awesome idea!
Do you think this set up be used for clutch?
I think it would really come down to how much leverage you could create in your setup. The clutch pedal usually takes quite a bit more force than the throttle to actuate so I don't think a bicycle brake lever and a wire would be enough to get the job done. I bet someone has done it though and gotten it to work.
Get a electric line lock n plumb it to the clutch lol it works lol you'll have a button for your clutch. So you step the clutch, hold ur button of choice, release the clutch pedal, release button when you ready to launch
Comment avoir le même système sur le débrayage vous avez un plan ou un schéma svp merci
Good idea! Hey I have a 92 and have an issue with the steering drag link clipping the leaf spring mount, have you encountered this before? Any idea's for a fix? Cheers
If you can, send me a picture of the issue and I'll have a better idea of what's going on. ( email: WheeliePete@outlook.com ) Is it a solid axle swapped rig or is this a non-US vehicle that came with the solid front axle and leaf springs from the factory? When we swap solid axles under the later trucks here we use high-clearance cross-over steering arms that route both the tie-rod and drag-link above the leaf springs. The only way to hit the leaf spring mounts would be to have huge leaf packs and move the axle way forward by drilling the spring perches and having a forward mounted front spring hanger. We also move the power steering box forward on the frame to keep from hitting stuff and to keep the drag link and tie-rod in parallel. I guess you could also clip the mount with the drag-link by having a pitman arm that is dropping too far and not having a proper bump-stop to halt upward travel of the axle and leaf spring... I did a video a bunch of years ago of a buddy's truck we were building and I think there's some detailed pictures of the cross-over steering setup in there... ua-cam.com/video/KK_mQcCSvJA/v-deo.html
@@WheeliePete ok I'll send you some pics tomoz, it's a non US (Australian) factory solid axle and leaf spring set up, someone told me it must have some sort of lift kit but I can't see evidence of it unless the springs are bigger like you mentioned.
I'm interested in doing this setup only going to the pedal for simplicity but I wonder, would you have enough leverage with one of those smaller shifter friction levers to operate the pedal? Looking at doing this on a 5 speed 3rd gen 4runner.
The friction shifter is good for raising the idle, but then it's going to stay there until you physically push the shifter lever back. I bet if you attach to the pedal linkage high enough it'll have enough leverage to work it though.
@@WheeliePete Yup I know full well it will remain higher idle, that is the exact feature I want it for. I also have small hands so I'm really not sure whether I can easily use a brake lever style anyway.
Most quality friction shifters will also have the ability to adjust the amount of friction. You could play with that setting and get it set so it just barely holds the throttle open, then it'll take very little effort to return the shifter to the closed position. Some of the old thumbshifters had a selector between index detents and friction. That might be good too.
Dood thats awesome
Would it work if I attach it to the clutch to use the hand throttle?
I've never tried it. I'm not sure there would be enough leverage to be able to pull the clutch pedal linkage.
I'm laying in bed with a bum knee thinking about this exact thing. How strong is a bike cable? Can it handle 20lbs of pull or will the cable stretch?
Bike cables are usually twisted multi strand stainless steel. I've never break tested one, but I would think it would take 20# without issue. What I would be wondering about would be the ability to get enough linear pull to activate the clutch.
Good Day
Or get a line lock?
I reverse engineered this project: I put a gas pedal on my bicycle. Chicks dig it!
When you don’t have a crawl box 😭😭
I didn't touch on that in the video, but yeah, in double low range with my crawl-box engaged, I really don't have to use the hand throttle. There's so much torque in double-low that you can stand on the brake and just let the clutch out and the crawler will pull right through the brake at idle. I've put them (hand throttle) in every wheeling rig I've owned or built for the last 20+ years though so I still use it a lot out of habit. It's still pretty helpful when I'm just puttering around the woods in 2wd or single low.