Have you the watch video on here of the mechanics school? The teacher heats the rods too, they have special oven that heats the rod, then slides the pin in, but none the less the rod is heated.
good video i have a quad bike engine and the I don't want to take the whole engine apart to get the piston out can you take the the piston rod assembly out without taking the whole piston out
I'm not sure what set up you have. i know on some motors when the head comes off the piston will be exposed and you can get to it like that. The only concern I would have would be bending something if the piston is press fit. If its held in by a clip, then it would be a very simple job. I think without seeing the engine its hard to tell you yes it would work or not. The best thing to do would be to just jump in and see whats happening if your comfortable with your skill set.
Yes, that is obviously important. I think he has something sticking out of the wood block acting as a stop, but yeah that setup is a bit jenky. Having something to hold the piston would be a good idea.
I used a piece of 2x6 and put a screw into it. I was able to go to the desired depth that way. I was also able to screw the wood to my workbench to hold it still and then was able to also set the height of the screw so it would stop the wrist pin.
How did you know , how far to adjust the screw? How did you know how far the pin goes in or where to have the pin to stop, after the rods cooled down and you everything was centered?
@@ericperry4934 you have to make it stop where when the connecting rod moves back and forth it does not come out the side. So put in the wrist pin before heating. Hold the connecting rod to the side of the piston on the wrist pin and then adjust the stop so then the rod centers, the wrist pin will be centered as well.
This is wrong. Annealing it is technically what he is doing but it is actually making it less brittle. Quenching or cold forging can cause the metal to become brittle which is why you should heat it and let it cool slowly after using a press on it. You should take some metal working and or knife making classes. It's not only informative but it's kinda fun
@@xBEASTofHELL I did! You just keep doing your way . Quenching is an art . When you quench it once at a given temperature the metal is brittle but hard. I f u don’t know what happens next that’s what ur problem.
By the way folks gear lube is the worst thing you can have in the piston engine it causes the Rings to freeze up it only takes a little amount because of the sulfur that's in the gear lube
I use a 5 lb maul and make the neighbor kid hold the rod & wrist pin
Lol
Solid video - thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Have you the watch video on here of the mechanics school? The teacher heats the rods too, they have special oven that heats the rod, then slides the pin in, but none the less the rod is heated.
those are slick. but they are expensive
@@BackyardGarage1 yea, definitely not something the normal guy buys unless he's installing pistons on rods on the regular lol
Thanks a lot very helpful!
Glad I could share.
very good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Very good trick , thank bro.
Glad I could share
good video
i have a quad bike engine and the I don't want to take the whole engine apart to get the piston out can you take the the piston rod assembly out without taking the whole piston out
I'm not sure what set up you have. i know on some motors when the head comes off the piston will be exposed and you can get to it like that. The only concern I would have would be bending something if the piston is press fit. If its held in by a clip, then it would be a very simple job. I think without seeing the engine its hard to tell you yes it would work or not. The best thing to do would be to just jump in and see whats happening if your comfortable with your skill set.
Take that pin out when your heating that piston. Defeating the purpose
Lol I’m not hearing the piston enough to go through the aluminum and expand the pin… only enough to warm the molecules of the aluminum.
You didn't mention anything about centering pin on connection rod.
I did not. But thank you for bringing this up. I dont always get across all information but i try my hardest.
Yes, that is obviously important. I think he has something sticking out of the wood block acting as a stop, but yeah that setup is a bit jenky. Having something to hold the piston would be a good idea.
I need yo know which way to fit a cherri qq 800cc pistons onto the conrod
I honestly don’t know
This hurts to watch this as Machinist remember folks not everything on these videos just recommended
Can you explain from your perspective why this hurts?
Well as a critic, maybe you should elaborate on what was done wrong?....other than that you're just another online hater!
Safety safety.!..did not wear a helmet and knee pads. And Bullet proof eyewear.
I've had "machinsts" do much worse.
I cool my rod pour gear lube on it works great
How did you align the stop anchor
I used a piece of 2x6 and put a screw into it. I was able to go to the desired depth that way. I was also able to screw the wood to my workbench to hold it still and then was able to also set the height of the screw so it would stop the wrist pin.
How did you know , how far to adjust the screw? How did you know how far the pin goes in or where to have the pin to stop, after the rods cooled down and you everything was centered?
How you know where to stop the wrist pin
@@ericperry4934 you have to make it stop where when the connecting rod moves back and forth it does not come out the side. So put in the wrist pin before heating. Hold the connecting rod to the side of the piston on the wrist pin and then adjust the stop so then the rod centers, the wrist pin will be centered as well.
I still don't understand. Can you provide a video. On how adjusted the pin And rod. How you measured.
You forgot the small end bearing!
You know it messes up the rods when you do it yourself it over heats them. Your always supposed to let a machine shop do that
You probably just shouldnt make another comment on this topic until you actually educate yourself.
It won’t hurt it
I’m guessing you torque your wheel nuts also don’t ya? 🤡
@@JusTryNc fuck no 🤣🤣🤷♂️
Yes as Machinist this guy definitely not doesn't know what he's doing hurts to watch this I've seen other videos and it's just a joke
You are annealing the metal making it brittle.
This didn’t go back into the block. I ended up getting a rotating assembly with new pistons and con rods.
This is wrong. Annealing it is technically what he is doing but it is actually making it less brittle. Quenching or cold forging can cause the metal to become brittle which is why you should heat it and let it cool slowly after using a press on it. You should take some metal working and or knife making classes. It's not only informative but it's kinda fun
@@xBEASTofHELL I did! You just keep doing your way . Quenching is an art . When you quench it once at a given temperature the metal is brittle but hard. I f u don’t know what happens next that’s what ur problem.
This is how ever shop does it.
So all of you are saying take them to a Machine shop
You can. But around me it was $20 each
I found this video very disconnected.
Im sorry you feel that way. Thank you for the feedback though, it will help me try to be more connecting in the future.
Pour gear lube on it
By the way folks gear lube is the worst thing you can have in the piston engine it causes the Rings to freeze up it only takes a little amount because of the sulfur that's in the gear lube
@@pauljanssen2624 don’t you clean your parts before you do final assembly? Lol been using gearlube for 25 years no issues but use whatever works