I just rebuilt my first 48re using your video with Myer from a while back and the ATSG, both were great resources. I didn't do any extra oiling mods, or riveting because I was trying to keep it simple. But now that I've been through one and see how simple it actually is the next one will be even better.
Hopefully only in mine once so I did the oiling mods. Drilled passage for rear sprag/ drum oiling and Sonnex overdrive piston housing with extra oiling passages. Mines gas so not going steel planets . Did go with a 5 pinion planetary and red clutches. Used the early Belleville spring and tricked 5 clutches in my direct drum.
Thanks for always sharing your experience and knowledge and showing why you do things the way you do and the reasoning behind it. Great content for the DYI crowd.
GREAT AT HOME BUILDER INFORMATION!!!!!!! Love it man keep the 47/48re content coming 🙌 👌 Getting ready to do my first trans rebuild, your the reason why
Josh this video is money Great video for guys who wanna try and tackle rebuilds and such Cause truth b known with your last one with Myer and atsg book I’ve a few know Great to see u giving so much back to our sport Class act
When I built my 48re I use Sonnax everything that I could and then Muldoon's diesel for clutches and valve body and triple disc DCP converter and I have to say I've been pretty happy with it the past year
Just want to say great timing for me finding your channel. I'm am going to be swapping my 47RE, that I rebuilt myself when working with DTT 15 plus years ago, from 4wd od section to a 2wd od section once I buy a 2wd output shaft and housing. Have you had issues with breaking the 2wd output shaft since I haven't been able to find a billet one, I twisted off the 4wd output brake torquing to do a burnout ... this was before there were billet 4wd outputs on the market a burnout . Thanks for showing some of the latest secrets also ....
I have found so many times I really on someone else to do repairs ie anything something either comes back wrong broke or backwards. No matter who I have do it. Unless I do it myself. And believe me I've done things wrong myself only saviour is I triple check all I've done then it's all on me anyway great job on that trans. 😄😀👍
Question I have a 47re and I want to know what parts to get out of a 48 like the planetary gears and drum (angle different on pinion gears?) As the 47re has steel pinions but one less and sometimes the out cage is aluminum not steel.
Thanks for the explanation on the 4 vs 5 forward clutch situation. I'm piecing parts together to build exactly what you are doing here. Is there a preferred kit out there when it comes to clutch packs. bands and seals? I already have Converter, billet input, pump and valvebody sitting here.
Question , who makes the tools you use to help get the seals started , I was taught to do it with feeler blades , but those look like less chance of cutting a seal?
Just wondering if you had any problems with no reverse. I got a 46re with no reverse I rebuilt it once completely even with a remanufactured oil pump and torque converter. Now reverses went out again overdrive direct clutches burnt. Have y'all ever seen both overdrive direct clutches brunch and no reverse. Could the 800 lb spring be the cause? Could a crack case be my issue? Going to be tearing it down in the next week or so to see if there's any major inside. Appreciate any information you could give on this matter.
You know I thought so too but I've already replaced the drum the band the drum support with the updated loopholes I also replace the rear band servo with the updated metal 2 seal servo. Any other ideas because I'm running out of them.
Yes after it started doing it I thought maybe my separator plate in the valve body who went bad allowing cross leakage so I put a transgo kit in with their separator plate and also updated the metal reverse check ball to a neoprene check ball. I thought also direct drum and the overdrive clutches had to be engaged with reverse band for reverse, could that be an issue? The case, the only thing I can think of is if it cracked inside near the return cooler line nipple and cause an interior leak that wasn't allowing enough pressure to engage the reverse service.
@@horsetorquesdiesel Thank you Josh! Also what do you think of extending the splines on the forward planetary to eliminate clutch hang up if you were to run 5 clutch’s in the forward? I’m building a 47re for a friend that claims his truck makes around 1200hp. What would you recommend for a rough starting line pressure. I’m going to be using a transgo SK kit in the valve body. I haven’t played with the 47re too much but what I’ve got at the moment is a 7 clutch overdrive brake with .102” clearance, direct 6 clutch with .088”clearance and I’ve only got 4 in the forward at the moment at .026” clearance but was think about going to 5. TS servo 4.2 lever, 3 skip to on the direct drum piston and a flex band.
Hey Josh I recently cracked my housing on my tranny I was wondering if maybe you could help me find one if so can you please let me know the best way to get ahold of you thank you.
Question about the Sonnax Super Hold Servo, I’m still using the stock 5.0 apply lever and have the Super Hold Servo installed currently and wondering if it’s what’s causing my binding issue on 2-3. Also seems to skip second under very light throttle. I have a Shift Kit and Billet Single Disc.
Have a question. I rebuilt my 48re. Did trango hd shift kit. Had vacuum tested and idaho transmission wear house change some things. Not sure what and it burned up reverse band and drum. Rebuilt it again and now it won’t shift from 2 to 3 at 40 mph and let off throttle. Any information will be appreciated greatly.
I just rebuilt my first 48re using your video with Myer from a while back and the ATSG, both were great resources. I didn't do any extra oiling mods, or riveting because I was trying to keep it simple. But now that I've been through one and see how simple it actually is the next one will be even better.
Hopefully only in mine once so I did the oiling mods. Drilled passage for rear sprag/ drum oiling and Sonnex overdrive piston housing with extra oiling passages. Mines gas so not going steel planets . Did go with a 5 pinion planetary and red clutches. Used the early Belleville spring and tricked 5 clutches in my direct drum.
The atsg manual is a life saver! I built my 47 without ever seeing the inside of a auto trans just by strictly following the manual step by step.
Thanks for always sharing your experience and knowledge and showing why you do things the way you do and the reasoning behind it. Great content for the DYI crowd.
I really like the diy videos I've only built maybe ten trans. But it still helps going over it from diff angles and pickup new ways.
GREAT AT HOME BUILDER INFORMATION!!!!!!!
Love it man keep the 47/48re content coming 🙌 👌
Getting ready to do my first trans rebuild, your the reason why
I'm rebuilding my 48re as we speak and watching your videos...very informative , keep up the good work and thank you!
Great video watched it at length and will watch again to let it sink in next trans I am doing my own if I have the time. THANKS JOSH 👍
Thank you for letting us build this one!
Very good video Josh ! This is gonna help out some guys 👍🏻
Josh this video is money
Great video for guys who wanna try and tackle rebuilds and such
Cause truth b known with your last one with Myer and atsg book I’ve a few know
Great to see u giving so much back to our sport Class act
When I built my 48re I use Sonnax everything that I could and then Muldoon's diesel for clutches and valve body and triple disc DCP converter and I have to say I've been pretty happy with it the past year
Me too with the Sonnax 😁
Sonnax also puts a o ring on the rear support to stop the potential leak point at the rear of the case where it goes thru from the rear.
The ATSG manual is a huge help.
One would think I should be able to build one myself now after all the videos over the past few years 👍
Thanks alot for this Josh
I love all your videos
great explanation, thanks
Just want to say great timing for me finding your channel. I'm am going to be swapping my 47RE, that I rebuilt myself when working with DTT 15 plus years ago, from 4wd od section to a 2wd od section once I buy a 2wd output shaft and housing. Have you had issues with breaking the 2wd output shaft since I haven't been able to find a billet one, I twisted off the 4wd output brake torquing to do a burnout ... this was before there were billet 4wd outputs on the market a burnout . Thanks for showing some of the latest secrets also ....
The 2wd shafts will hold 1000hp no issues!
Great video. Thanks man!!
I have found so many times I really on someone else to do repairs ie anything something either comes back wrong broke or backwards. No matter who I have do it. Unless I do it myself. And believe me I've done things wrong myself only saviour is I triple check all I've done then it's all on me anyway great job on that trans. 😄😀👍
Hell Yeah Brother 🇺🇸🦅
iirc I used roll pins to stake my sprag years ago. Whatever Will Terry did in his competition diesel 47 build thread
Would u rather run an extra clutch or a thick react plate which in ur opinion is better more durable. U think. 😗
Question I have a 47re and I want to know what parts to get out of a 48 like the planetary gears and drum (angle different on pinion gears?) As the 47re has steel pinions but one less and sometimes the out cage is aluminum not steel.
Thanks for the explanation on the 4 vs 5 forward clutch situation. I'm piecing parts together to build exactly what you are doing here. Is there a preferred kit out there when it comes to clutch packs. bands and seals? I already have Converter, billet input, pump and valvebody sitting here.
Ya call me Monday I’ll sell you a kit
@@horsetorquesdiesel 10-4!
How long will take me at first i wondering
Good video Josh. On the 47/48s do you not need to weld the planetarys or do you do that on the higher HP builds?
Only weld 68 planet pinion gears. 47/48 you weld the ring gears
@@horsetorquesdiesel awh! Makes sense. They are welding mine on my 68 so I was just wondering.. I probably should have went with the 48 swap..lol
Pvd stepped reaction plates 12:54
Question , who makes the tools you use to help get the seals started , I was taught to do it with feeler blades , but those look like less chance of cutting a seal?
Seal saver Amazon
Nice video now let’s build a high pressure valve body
Where do you get that book you are looking at? I want to DIY my 48 in my 06 Cummins
Amazon
what type of rivit are you using to hold the sprag? a steel rivit you hammer in?
Steel with a hand held installer
I guess it had to happen sometime ,they took turbo toms Chanel down,I miss that guy
No they didn’t
Just wondering if you had any problems with no reverse.
I got a 46re with no reverse I rebuilt it once completely even with a remanufactured oil pump and torque converter.
Now reverses went out again overdrive direct clutches burnt.
Have y'all ever seen both overdrive direct clutches brunch and no reverse.
Could the 800 lb spring be the cause?
Could a crack case be my issue?
Going to be tearing it down in the next week or so to see if there's any major inside.
Appreciate any information you could give on this matter.
LR band problem
You know I thought so too but I've already replaced the drum the band the drum support with the updated loopholes I also replace the rear band servo with the updated metal 2 seal servo.
Any other ideas because I'm running out of them.
@@stephengoad3091 VB or case at that point the only thing on in reverse is that drum
Yes after it started doing it I thought maybe my separator plate in the valve body who went bad allowing cross leakage so I put a transgo kit in with their separator plate and also updated the metal reverse check ball to a neoprene check ball.
I thought also direct drum and the overdrive clutches had to be engaged with reverse band for reverse, could that be an issue?
The case, the only thing I can think of is if it cracked inside near the return cooler line nipple and cause an interior leak that wasn't allowing enough pressure to engage the reverse service.
What kind of drill bits are you using to go into that sprag?
Cobalt Milwaukee bits
@@horsetorquesdiesel Thank you Josh! Also what do you think of extending the splines on the forward planetary to eliminate clutch hang up if you were to run 5 clutch’s in the forward? I’m building a 47re for a friend that claims his truck makes around 1200hp. What would you recommend for a rough starting line pressure. I’m going to be using a transgo SK kit in the valve body. I haven’t played with the 47re too much but what I’ve got at the moment is a 7 clutch overdrive brake with .102” clearance, direct 6 clutch with .088”clearance and I’ve only got 4 in the forward at the moment at .026” clearance but was think about going to 5. TS servo 4.2 lever, 3 skip to on the direct drum piston and a flex band.
There are 2 upgrades for both drive bands use the Kevlar 727(thicker) and wider 10-12 rivet band gm solenoid upgrade line pressure
Hey Josh I recently cracked my housing on my tranny I was wondering if maybe you could help me find one if so can you please let me know the best way to get ahold of you thank you.
Call the shop 276-608-3298!
Question about the Sonnax Super Hold Servo, I’m still using the stock 5.0 apply lever and have the Super Hold Servo installed currently and wondering if it’s what’s causing my binding issue on 2-3. Also seems to skip second under very light throttle. I have a Shift Kit and Billet Single Disc.
I personally don’t like those and yes that could 100% be your issue
The sign of a true mechanic, electrical tape on your finger!
Bro that poor finger catches hell I see.
Squirrel!
Have a question. I rebuilt my 48re. Did trango hd shift kit. Had vacuum tested and idaho transmission wear house change some things. Not sure what and it burned up reverse band and drum. Rebuilt it again and now it won’t shift from 2 to 3 at 40 mph and let off throttle. Any information will be appreciated greatly.
I would send the VB out
@@horsetorquesdiesel to pdd?
@@georgepierce9253 I would send it to one of many reputable companies to have it tested