@@denniswoodhouse3351 My method for steel lintels is to drill with a quality HSS drill bit to start on a slow speed then you will need to use suitable steel self tapping screws directly through the timber into the lintel to get a decent fixture.I don't use plugs if coming directly into a steel lintel.
This was a brilliant video. One of the best DIY videos I've come across. Very clear instructions and done slowly enough to follow along. Providing a transcript was also useful. My curtain batton has gone up and is looking fantastic. Many thanks Gemma
Thank you for taking the time to go through every step so thoroughly. I haven't put one of these up before and have 14 in one house to do 🤨 so should be proficient by the time I am done 😂
I did this same job today although before watching your video. Heartening to see that intuitively I followed the same steps as you except I had some hard concrete to drill into. Having done this and aligned it with a central screw the Rawl plugs got forced outward (used my drill as screw driver). Really annoying to find at the end it was 5mm off horizontal at one end due to screws dragging it out of alignment. Really pissed off because I can't leave it like that.
It happens as it doesn't take much for a screw to pull slightly out of alignment and I know what you mean about not leaving it like that and sometimes you're better off tightening up by hand as you have a bit more leeway / adjustment than the drill drivers torque.
that happens because I have fitted loads, and when you use wood screws with thread all the way to the end it pulls the rawl plugs out from the wall. As it over tightens the rawl plug too much before pulling the BATTEN against the wall, so the weakest point is the rawl plug and it pulls it out. - When doing Battens this way You use a slightly longer screw and one where the thread does not go all the way to the top of the screw. It pulls the batten down onto the wall with greater force and allows it to continue to pull down and prevent the rawl plug from being pulled out, or spun! - Either that or use core drill screws and inserts, but you only tend to use those on Battens which support greater weight like cupboards and shelves. - This method is fine for a curtain pole, though there are better screws designed for the job he was doing! - Nice video nonetheless, good instructions and have referred family to his channel aswell!
Any advice when a timber batten comes partially off on side after being up for 20 plus years with set of heavy curtains on it about how to repair (Christmas Day present !)
The wall I’ve got is like drilling into sand. It’s completely hollow . Instead of screwing the baton to the wall, Do you think if I get gripfill or some kind of adhesive and stick it to the wall? Then screw curtains into the wall?
I Would not recommend or risk a gripfill adhesive solely on its own as due to the weight of the curtains including pole with constant opening and closing definitely a danger of falling down. I would investigate the wall construction take it from there and source suitable fixings/safe mounting points.
Iirc around a 2 or 3 mm starter bit and don't forget to counter sink the screw heads for a flush neat finish, you can also buy the counter sink drill bits combined single or in a set of various sizes.
@@micksmaintenanceanddiy@micksmaintenanceanddiy I got 2.5mm for pilot hole in the end. I was able to get cone drill too 1st time using it. Another question please. When fixing the brackets into the batten what screws to use? As previously I use long ones . Thanks Natasha
Use quality wood screws to suit the brackets,they need to be long enough to go through the brackets and timber without coming through the back of the timber ( l always utilize the full thickness of the batten with the screw size to create a secure fixing ). Good luck with your project.
i want my curtains to cover the entire section of my wall , i will get a curtain rod that covers the entire wall. How long should the timber batten be?
If you think about it, if you don't want it to be seen, get your curtain rail, notice where the rail's fixing brackets go (and if several, just note each one nearest to each end of the rail and measure the distance between these two alone). Using the measurement between each one as your guide, cut your wooden batten just a little bit more than this length. Then affix it to the wall above the window and paint it the same colour.
The rawl plugs were size 6 he used & screws were about 50mm he said a couple of mins in, the screw caps obviously the size needed will be to cover the head of the 50mm screws, standard bit of batten is approx always the same as standard.
Im really struggling as i have steel lintel behind where the curtain pole goes...what power drill do i need to drill into it (using the HSS steel drill bit method)?
Any corded or 18v power drill should be sufficient personally when I come in contact with a steel lintel my preferred method is to start off with a masonry pilot hole first through the plaster brick or block work (do not use a hss drill bit for this as will blunten the tip) then a 5.5 -6 mm Quality Hss drill bit on a slow speed on the steel lintel then suitable self tapping steel screws to suit and with the batten will give you scope to get a good fixing.
Concrete screws are great for the harder brick and block work and of course concrete but i much prefer the screw and plug method on the lighter less dense thermalite type blocks.
@@micksmaintenanceanddiy The drill went in very easily and that's why I thought it was plasterboard. My wall is plasterboard so can you recommend what plug to use as there's so many to choose from.
lol, your off the hook. nice work. i see sooooo many people teaching other people to screw there curtain rods into the gib board, withOUT mentioning the crucial part of 'perhaps' you might wanna consider hitting a noggin in the wall LOL. Yes it can sometimes be near impossible to put the curtain bracket where it 'should' ideally be placed, so this idea is good. Perhaps you could do a video on installing curtain rods onto a wall that has gib board? Most (like me) wouldnt have picked up that your installation was into a brick and plaster wall.
*Tip: If you find you are coming in contact with a steel lintel directly behind where you want to fix the curtain rail / pole switch to a HSS steel drill bit and self tapping screw.
I saw a DIY and builder on a famous tv show do this last week and he drilled bigger holes and put the rawl plug in the batten on every hole, and not behind the Batten, he said he had been doing it that way nearly 40 years with no problem..lol. - it took him about 5 minutes. - I was taught to countersink the drill hole on the batten, rawl plug behind and then use longer screws with no thread on the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the screw. - Or use cord drill screws with inserts as they are stronger. - it is kind of weird, how there are so many ways to fit battens, some better than others, plus you vary screws and anchors depending on the wall, and also depending on the pulling force of the item you will be supporting. - Some will use 3 screws for a curtain batten, I like to use 5. I bet some people in the thread will use 3, though if doing a bigger Batten I would use 5 as it will stand the test of time!
*If this video was helpful please consider giving it a thumbs up like and subscribing.
What screws and plugs do you use into lintel ?
@@denniswoodhouse3351
My method for steel lintels is to drill with a quality HSS drill bit to start on a slow speed then you will need to use suitable steel self tapping screws directly through the timber into the lintel to get a decent fixture.I don't use plugs if coming directly into a steel lintel.
This was a brilliant video. One of the best DIY videos I've come across. Very clear instructions and done slowly enough to follow along. Providing a transcript was also useful. My curtain batton has gone up and is looking fantastic. Many thanks Gemma
Thanks Gemma. Glad it helped.
Thank you for taking the time to go through every step so thoroughly. I haven't put one of these up before and have 14 in one house to do 🤨 so should be proficient by the time I am done 😂
Thank you,14 will certainly keep you busy and good luck with your project.
Thank you for taking time to upload this very informative video.
You're welcome Debbie, glad it's helped.
I did this same job today although before watching your video. Heartening to see that intuitively I followed the same steps as you except I had some hard concrete to drill into. Having done this and aligned it with a central screw the Rawl plugs got forced outward (used my drill as screw driver). Really annoying to find at the end it was 5mm off horizontal at one end due to screws dragging it out of alignment. Really pissed off because I can't leave it like that.
It happens as it doesn't take much for a screw to pull slightly out of alignment and I know what you mean about not leaving it like that and sometimes you're better off tightening up by hand as you have a bit more leeway / adjustment than the drill drivers torque.
Thanks Mick
that happens because I have fitted loads, and when you use wood screws with thread all the way to the end it pulls the rawl plugs out from the wall. As it over tightens the rawl plug too much before pulling the BATTEN against the wall, so the weakest point is the rawl plug and it pulls it out.
-
When doing Battens this way You use a slightly longer screw and one where the thread does not go all the way to the top of the screw. It pulls the batten down onto the wall with greater force and allows it to continue to pull down and prevent the rawl plug from being pulled out, or spun!
-
Either that or use core drill screws and inserts, but you only tend to use those on Battens which support greater weight like cupboards and shelves.
-
This method is fine for a curtain pole, though there are better screws designed for the job he was doing!
-
Nice video nonetheless, good instructions and have referred family to his channel aswell!
Any advice when a timber batten comes partially off on side after being up for 20 plus years with set of heavy curtains on it about how to repair (Christmas Day present !)
Do loads of these. Unless you are planning on using iron curtains, 3 holes (L, R and C) and (decent, not pound shop) grab adhesive will suffice.
Very useful! Thanks for this!!
Thanks mate, very helpful video.
You are welcome.
Great video👍👍
Do you think I could just stick one ? Ct1 kinda stuff.
The wall I’ve got is like drilling into sand. It’s completely hollow . Instead of screwing the baton to the wall, Do you think if I get gripfill or some kind of adhesive and stick it to the wall? Then screw curtains into the wall?
I Would not recommend or risk a gripfill adhesive solely on its own as due to the weight of the curtains including pole with constant opening and closing definitely a danger of falling down.
I would investigate the wall construction take it from there and source suitable fixings/safe mounting points.
There must be something solid behind the wall somewhere, wooden joists. Find that and affix the batten to that.
When your drilling the holes on the timber batten what drill size are you using. I know you said for the plugs it is 6mm. Thanks
Iirc around a 2 or 3 mm starter bit and don't forget to counter sink the screw heads for a flush neat finish, you can also buy the counter sink drill bits combined single or in a set of various sizes.
@@micksmaintenanceanddiy@micksmaintenanceanddiy I got 2.5mm for pilot hole in the end. I was able to get cone drill too 1st time using it. Another question please. When fixing the brackets into the batten what screws to use? As previously I use long ones . Thanks Natasha
Use quality wood screws to suit the brackets,they need to be long enough to go through the brackets and timber without coming through the back of the timber ( l always utilize the full thickness of the batten with the screw size to create a secure fixing ).
Good luck with your project.
@micksmaintenanceanddiy thank you
i want my curtains to cover the entire section of my wall , i will get a curtain rod that covers the entire wall. How long should the timber batten be?
If you think about it, if you don't want it to be seen, get your curtain rail, notice where the rail's fixing brackets go (and if several, just note each one nearest to each end of the rail and measure the distance between these two alone).
Using the measurement between each one as your guide, cut your wooden batten just a little bit more than this length.
Then affix it to the wall above the window and paint it the same colour.
Great video...but to gain further strength for the baton I would put CT-1 on the back of the baton and that woulg give it an even better hold
What is CT1 please?
@@lesleyfrench4182 it's a sealant/adhesive
CT1 is fine, but not really needed if you use better screws designed for pulling the batten onto the wall.
Thank you
Thank mate really helped
Glad it helped.
can you mention size of depth of wood, size of screws and plastic caps, what size you used for drill
The rawl plugs were size 6 he used & screws were about 50mm he said a couple of mins in, the screw caps obviously the size needed will be to cover the head of the 50mm screws, standard bit of batten is approx always the same as standard.
Im really struggling as i have steel lintel behind where the curtain pole goes...what power drill do i need to drill into it (using the HSS steel drill bit method)?
Any corded or 18v power drill should be sufficient personally when I come in contact with a steel lintel my preferred method is to start off with a masonry pilot hole first through the plaster brick or block work (do not use a hss drill bit for this as will blunten the tip) then a 5.5 -6 mm Quality Hss drill bit on a slow speed on the steel lintel then suitable self tapping steel screws to suit and with the batten will give you scope to get a good fixing.
Please what size and type is the smaller drill bit that you use for the wood?
I used a 2.5mm pilot hole wood starter bit which is slightly smaller than the screw diameter/thickness size.
What name of this wood brother because I want bay it from online
Thanks
Spruce,pse whitewood.
Forget the plugs and screws. Use concrete fixing hex drive screws. The come in various lengths so guaranteed to get a good fixing.
Concrete screws are great for the harder brick and block work and of course concrete but i much prefer the screw and plug method on the lighter less dense thermalite type blocks.
@@micksmaintenanceanddiy agree. Nice n chunky plugs n screws
I am looking someone who can fix this for me please can you do it?
What plasterboard fixings did you use
No plasterboard fixings used on this one (screws and plugs only) as it's a solid block built and plastered wall.
@@micksmaintenanceanddiy The drill went in very easily and that's why I thought it was plasterboard. My wall is plasterboard so can you recommend what plug to use as there's so many to choose from.
@@hardworker8030 Look into hollow wall anchors,spring toggles and grip it fixings for load specific requirements.
Best way to get pencil marks off is with a rubber/eraser
Not much use if you can’t drill into the fecking wall because of a steel lint…
Pink Grip is your friend in which case or C-Tec Power Grab n Bond if you never want it to come off.
That's my problem at the moment but, easy solution, I just screwed the batten above the lintel. I have high ceilings so plenty of room.
@@loislee4638how do you know how high the lintel is though?
wouldnt you have been better off screwing the batten into the studs? this makes no sense to me...
It wouldn't do,what studs !! It's a brick and plaster wall 😂
lol, your off the hook. nice work. i see sooooo many people teaching other people to screw there curtain rods into the gib board, withOUT mentioning the crucial part of 'perhaps' you might wanna consider hitting a noggin in the wall LOL. Yes it can sometimes be near impossible to put the curtain bracket where it 'should' ideally be placed, so this idea is good. Perhaps you could do a video on installing curtain rods onto a wall that has gib board? Most (like me) wouldnt have picked up that your installation was into a brick and plaster wall.
But I have steeeeel
*Tip: If you find you are coming in contact with a steel lintel directly behind where you want to fix the curtain rail / pole switch to a HSS steel drill bit and self tapping screw.
Alright - I’ll speak to my wife and wallet and see what we can do 😅
I hate dot and dab plasrerboard.
25 mins to fit 1. I hope your not on day rate haha
I saw a DIY and builder on a famous tv show do this last week and he drilled bigger holes and put the rawl plug in the batten on every hole, and not behind the Batten, he said he had been doing it that way nearly 40 years with no problem..lol.
-
it took him about 5 minutes.
-
I was taught to countersink the drill hole on the batten, rawl plug behind and then use longer screws with no thread on the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the screw.
-
Or use cord drill screws with inserts as they are stronger.
-
it is kind of weird, how there are so many ways to fit battens, some better than others, plus you vary screws and anchors depending on the wall, and also depending on the pulling force of the item you will be supporting.
-
Some will use 3 screws for a curtain batten, I like to use 5. I bet some people in the thread will use 3, though if doing a bigger Batten I would use 5 as it will stand the test of time!