Setting Amplifier Gain or Input Sensitivity
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- JL Audio Trainer, Rob Haynes, walks you through this simple 9-step method for setting amplifier gain. It will require test tone(s), a digital multimeter and a screwdriver. The complete procedure with target input voltages for JL Audio amplifiers , along with all kinds of helpful articles, can be found here: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/...
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This is the video that launched my career. Still have a lot to learn about audio but I’ve come so far since first watching this video the first time it doesn’t even seem real. I used to refer back to it once a week or so and share with all my friends. Thanks for posting
Justin, that is too cool. Thank you so much for sharing. Stay tüned - we'll have more and more content uploaded as it's ready!
Thank you for posting this video, now I'm more confident of what I'm doing when adjusting gain / input sensitivity on my car amps!
This is by far the most important step in tuning/installation. Thanks for the Giveaway opportunity! That amp would really spice up my modest system!
You got it! Best of luck!
@@JLAudioInc Man after market equipment amplifiers and headunits are meant to use the low level switch cuz of the RCA in video it says if at low levelur voltage exceeds ur desired voltage u should switch to high level if u switch it to high level will that damage anythin since after market stuff is for low level use.?
Wish I've found such a well explained video back in 2009... Good job guys
Super helpful thank you glad your website has the test tones also a great help!
This is a fantastic video on properly setting gains. Extremely informative.
Glad it helped!
This will be my favorite informative vlog from JL Audio for sure. Lots of great tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Have used all of JL's tuning guides and articles for years, always great stuff. Rewatching this today and the subwoofer turning to dust at 5:30 made me laugh :)
Appreciate the continued support throughout the years and we are so happy to know you've found so much use from our guides, articles and videos. Stay tüned - plenty more to come!
Best video about this adjustment ever.
It's okay, but it just assumes ¾ volume. That's should be tested first from the HU alone with an oscilloscope to find the point it starts clipping.
No other companies are helping their customers like jl,I cant say enough good things about jl audio the best equipment on the market followed by the best cs,its the perfect recipe
Awww thanks
I swear! I purchased a JL JX500/1D and the user manual that came with it even calculated the gain and everything for you.! JL is amazing
Been doing car audio/video installs a long time,long before the internet.video's like these make a big difference for people learning to do installs the right way.good content bud
We're very happy to hear you're getting something out of our videos! Please let us know if there is anything else you would like to see in the future!
One of the most important steps to putting anything in your car! JL audio over everything
Absolutely!
This video is by far my favorite video in this playlist, helped me tune my rd400/1.
Glad to hear it! Good luck!
@@JLAudioInc It worked great with the c2 650 component set speakers in the car. C2 650's paired with the behemoth of a 13w7.
Wow...not only a world class product, best DIY education on amp tuning iv seen....thank you
Great support for JL equipment!!!
This is a great video for learning how to set your amplifiers safely.
Thanks for watching!
Just set my gains using this tutorial. Had no idea that tiny hairline adjustments to the gain knob could affect the output voltage so dramatically. Got my Boston G3 dialed in perfectly. *To calculate your amps recommended output voltage, just Google the formula and plug your numbers in.
Great to hear!
JL OVER EVERYTHING !!!
ROOOOOOBBBBBB THE GOAT !!!! ONE OF YOUR BIGGEST FAN OF JL AUDIO since 06 WITH THE HELP OF MATT M. !!
Always appreciate the support!
This is my Favorite. 2020 Giveaway. JL Audio For Life!
very good, I was always oriented use resistive load at the output of the amplifier but, from this video I'm going to use the multimeter because really beyond the noise is risky damage the speaker, thanks!
Yes this is the ideal and best way to do it. You dont risk damaging your speaker if you turn it too far and it distorts. Especially if it's only clipping or distorted slightly that you dont really hear it but over time you're doing damage to your speakers.
@JL Audio
To truly optimize the gain structure of your system, you'll FIRST need to determine the EXACT point on the Head Unit or source unit's Volume Level where its output begins to clip.
Just guessing and setting your head unit or source to "3/4" volume *might* get you in the ballpark, but is leaving a lot on the table.
It would be great if an Online retailer such as Crutchfield would put an Oscilloscope on each Head Unit that they sell to determine its clipping point, and publish those specs for the F/R/Sub and Speaker Level Outputs, and maintain an Online database with this information.
They could even provide a smartphone app with an in-app purchase of let's say 99¢ for this information on a particular head unit in order to gain some ROI.
I o'scoped my Kenwood double-din's RCA outputs, and it did not clip at max volume.
Man thank God someone like you is around to tell the jl audio techs what they don't know!🤣🤣 They're obviously doing a tutorial for the everyday average Joe that isn't an audio file and doesn't have access to oscilloscopes and other calibration tools.
@@skypallman6169
LOL. Ummmm...I didn't post this for the JL Techs, I posted it, as you said, for the "Average Joe" DIY enthusiast/installers who might be reading these comments and not know that all head unit's RCA preamp outputs do not clip at "around 3/4 volume". This can vary A LOT between specific brands and models. While "3/4 volume" might be safe in most cases, it definitely doesn't optimize the gain structure and undistorted output for EVERY system.
While many head units begin to clip in that "ballpark" 3/4 volume range, many others do not. For instance, in the case of the Kenwood eXcelon Reference head units, their Front & Rear RCA Preamp outputs don't clip at all. So they can be set to maximum 40/40 volume instead of a random "3/4 volume level", and that maximizes the gain structure which provides the lowest noise floor and highest undistorted output level for the system.
So you don't think it would be an advantage and service to the professional car audio installer and Average Joe enthusiast if someone like Crutchfield (who sells tons of just about every major head unit that is available) tested the Maximum Unclipped RCA Volume Level of all the head unit models they sell, and then provided that information to the community (even for a small fee/in-app purchase) so we know exactly at what point the head unit's RCA preamp outputs will clip?
I think shops and professional installers would greatly benefit from this information, as would DIY enthusiasts. It would eliminate another step in the install bay where "time is money", and it would keep A LOT of systems from leaving the install bay with less-than-optimized gain structures for their system.
Consumers and DIY enthusiasts pay a lot for equipment in order to have a good car audio system. IMO it should be optimized for the best performance. No one wants to get just $750 worth of performance from their $1000 front component system or subwoofer setup.
Nearly every customer and enthusiast wants their system to play as cleanly and loudly as possible before distortion starts to limit their max achievable volume and enjoyment. If you don't maximize the gain structure of the system, you could be leaving A LOT on the table and not give yourself or your customer the best service or system that they paid for.
As an installer, knowing 100% that the system was set up and left the bay so it would not play into clipping means that the customer is less likely to come back asking why their tweeters or subwoofers are blown. (Yeah, this is still going to happen regardless, but at least we tried, LOL)
If the gain and S/N Ratio of the SOURCE that is playing the music into the system is not optimized, that follows all the way down the signal chain. I know guys in SQ competition that tune their systems in regards to gain structure and max output to within 0.2dB of producing clipping distortion. :-O
No, that's not necessary for the Average Joe, but it should be a bar to strive for in order to get the best performance for the money for you or your customer's system.
As an installer, I would love to know this information up front without having to test for it for every time I'm installing a new head unit model. And it would keep Average Joe DIY installers from damaging their equipment and allow them to get the best performance out of their system, too.
/END OF RANT
@@skypallman6169 Are you an MECP certified installer?
@@ThinkDifferentish Yup, none of the 2018+ *Kenwood eXcelon Reference* head unit's RCA preamp outputs clip even at full volume (40/40). So in this case, setting their volume level at 3/4 wouldn't optimize the gain structure, Dynamic Range, and S/N Ratio of the system.
Thank you for the video. This is the correct procedure, sadly most people use the gain as a volume knob.
Glad it was helpful!
This is such a useful video for newbies like myself!
Glad it was helpful!
This has helped me out so much!
Glad to hear it!
Wow. I’m going to redo my 4 Channel amp now!
Gracias, me fue muy útil éste video para ajustar la ganancia de mi amplificador
Glad to hear it. Thanks, Juan!
This video does the trick every time!
Happy to hear it!
Hopefully I get to put this video to good use in a couple of weeks when install my new JL 6-channel.
Let us know if you have any further questions, Craig!
Thank you for a very informative and well explained video
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost the password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Hassan Ruben instablaster ;)
@Moshe Raiden thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Moshe Raiden It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass !
@Hassan Ruben No problem :)
Best video out 🙏🏼👍🏼
Great info, makes it easy 👍
Glad to hear it!
this was extremely helpfull, i just wish i could find a video showing the exact setup that i have, and no its not JL Audio, too rich for my blood at the current moment... lol
Great info for newcomers to the hobby👍
Glad to help! Thanks for watching, James!
This video was a lot of help for my 1200/1v3. Thank you guys. Keep up the good work.
Great to hear! Thank you!
How did you tune yours? I have the v3 trying to push a 13.5 jl audio. Having trouble trying to get it right
Allways Respect to JL ❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for the kind words!
Lets suppose my headunit (Pioneer 80prs) has a 5v output and when checking for distortion it clips at maximum volume which is 62/62 (tested with an SMD-DD1), then I plug the RCA's into the amplifier (A JBL GTR 7535) and plug the DD1 into the speaker outputs and even before I adjust the gain, the oscilloscope or DD1 sees distortion at a lower volume, is that telling me usually that the input switch on the amplifier needs to be switched to the "High" position in order to accommodate the higher input that is fed into the amplifier, just like you would have to do on say the 700/5 v2? Would you need to adjust the amp switch to high if it was a hot pre-amp output like on the 80prs? Thanks
Awesome. Very informative and well explained. I completely understand it now. Going to start fresh in both cars this weekend. Turn everything back to zero and set them both up this way. I'm curious to see how close/far offi was and how much different/better it sounds.
Glad it was helpful! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Did it sound better?
Update?
Hey jl audio, i want to ask, if i install a dsp upstream of the amp, if everything is set perfectly on the dsp, what should i do on the amp
Thanks
would it be best to use the tone that is closest to the tuning of your box? my box is tuned to around 34hz, would it be better to tune using a 35hz 0db tone?
And once the amp gains have been set to the recommended voltage now I can start playing with the stereo settings? Or i should leave them flat? Because once I start doing that the voltage goes up
@ Wayne Sahlbach Jr
Just turn the bass knob to max and adjust it like in the video . That way you cannot introduce clipping at any volume no matter where the bass adjustment is set at
chad burt so turn the bass nob all the way then start the adjustment?
chad burt even turned to max, a remote bass knob will still have a little resistance, reducing output which is just no fun :P
@@rentacowisgoogle that's why you have the bass knob on while you're setting your gains. You're not going to lose that much from a small little bass knob. The very very very my new difference it makes is not going to be enough to matter. It's a non audible difference.
If your radio has distortion after 2/3 volume, you'll never know you have distortion, when you set the amp gain(there are some LOCs that introduce distortion at 0 volume).
Distortion can also be introduced through a BT signal, also.
Did you set the bass boost? Some say use it and others say don’t. I would think you could set that before you set your voltage. What do you think?
what if we have an oscilloscope? what is the recommended way then? would we turn up our deck until right before clipping, using -3db or -6db tones, or what? thanks!
Tuning makes the stereo. I love my JL products. 2nd to none.
Agreed! Thanks for the kind words, Steve!
Hope you respond! I need help.
JD1000.1 pushing 15" Kicker CVX, with LC2i
1000 x 2 = 2000.
sqrt2000 = ~44.7 = target voltage
So I:
-75% volume 50hz test tone
-Set LC2i just a hair before 'maximized' light turns on.
-Amp gain all the way down still reads about 56, higher than voltage.
(ALSO - do I set inputs to low level when running from LC2i? - is this where my issue lies?)
BUT, if I set gain to hit the clipping indicator light on the amp itself, the voltage reaches like 75.
As of now, it sounds way underpowered. I had a 12" with 400 watts and that was louder. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and what I'm missing.
A little confused why these two numbers would be vastly different - target voltage v. clipping light voltage.
Would I still need to do this if I have an audiocontrol lc6i before the amp?
Hi, wonderful video.
There is something that I'd like to highlight. When determining the target voltage for input sensitivity according to the nominal impedance of the speaker system do say nothing about the power of the speakers. Two speakers can have the same impedance but different power. So charts show the amplifiers' max power at a determined impedance. But we need to adapt the voltage to the max capability of the speakers.
Maybe I do not explain it correctly :/
Can you set this amp up using the smd dd-1 and there recommended instructions??
Hello my 4 channel amp is running the correct voltage on 28/35 volume (as high as possible before the clip on the headunit) at the lowest gain setting is this possible that i don't have to move the gain knob any bit? and just leave it at the minimum. headunit is alpine ute 200bt and amp is soundigital 600.4 evo5
Hey JL :) i have a question, does the adjustment you show here work with a typical bassremote?
The remote doesent change the gain but just the level of the bass am i right? so does this work, as you show in the video with amps like my Amp with a remote?
/ R
Hello, for the JX, RD, XDv2 and HD amplifiers the knob functions as an attenuation and goes up to the point at which you set the gain. On the Slash v3 amplifiers the knob functions as a boost knob only.
Bass knobs definitely just max out at the point of where your input sensitivity gain is set
Can anyone tell me/point me in the right direction to this information - Amplifier Dyno spec for the JL Audio JX400/4D. JL Audio does not have these specs so I was told, so if anyone (without any BS please) just let me know where I can look for that.? Thank you in advance!
I have the MX 280/4. When I adjust the input sens screw… the most it reads is 16V on low voltage switch. On high it reads 5V AC. I already replaced this once. Really don’t know what to do at this point
Before testing voltage what setting should the bass volume knob (remote) be set at?
also if my speaker is rated for 100hz - 5000 hz, should I play this at 1000 still or should I got lower like 200?
I have a 12 inch subwoofer with a monoblock amp and my front and rear speakers arent hooked to any external amp except the head unit itself. How do I test for the head unit maximum volume before it starts distorting? Do I leave the subwoofer speaker disconnected from amp then put the oscilloscope (- probe)&(+ probe) on the amp speakers - and + terminals then play a 1khz tone with the head units eq at default or flat while turning the volume up with the amp gain on minimum, bass boost at 0 and low pass function at max until you can see the max volume when its distorting/clipping. Then do the same to test the 50hz tone and fine a average max volume range between the two test tones then turn up your amp gain up until it shows distorting then back it down just a notch to set the gain?
You would need to test the speaker wires directly out of the radio itself for clipping. You could use either tone since the goal is to minimize heavy clipping up to 3/4 volume. Since you are using the signal for bass only I would use a 50 Hz tone so that the clipping level would be more accurate in the bass range.
Me sirvió pero tengo un HD900/5 y C2-650 de 60rms, que voltaje buscó en mi multimetro para 60 rms?
“If excessive voltage is being read with the input sensitivity dial turned all the way down, switch the amp’s input voltage from Low to High”... This is what's happening on my multi-meter... but my Kenwood Excelon XR-5S doesn’t have this input voltage setting.. so how do I do this then? ... the signal is coming from my JL Audio FIX 86 DSP via 3 pairs of twisted RCA cables.
This is awesome. Same procedure on boats I assume?
Yes, you should use the same 9-step procedure. This is measuring the amp's output in relation to the input source, that is not dependent on the install application.
Thank you!
You bet!
If I'm using high level inputs with JL rca adapters would I want to set the input sensitivity with the switch on highor low?
High
Once i set everything with a flat setting, can i adjust the eq later on without clipping or the process should be repeated with to fit the custom eq setting?
I would set the EQ how you like and then tune the amp.. I figure that changing the treble and mid settings wouldn't make much of a difference, but increasing the bass or using a bass-booster would affect the subwoofer and could send it a distorted signal. I'd feel much more comfortable doing a tune after changing any settings, just to be sure speakers are getting clean signal.
I have a Kenwood unit which has the EQ flat, and speaker frequency settings are set to pass-thru since the signal goes to a 4-channel amp, i set the frequency on the amp.
I would highly suggest using an oscilloscope since the multimeter method assumes that you already know it's a clean signal. I bought an $80 oscilloscope/multimter off Amazon and while the oscill lines aren't as detailed as a $300 oscill, it still gives me a good idea of when I'm clipping, and that's the info that gives me confidence that my system is not getting a clipped signal at all
@@GlycerinZ Thanks!
In the video, you didn't mention the change in resistance when bridging a stereo amp. Its very important because when an amp is bridged, is sees half the resistance of the amp running unbridged. For example, a 4 ohm speaker is now a 2 ohm speaker. The amp has to do twice the work to drive the same speaker unbridged.
I have a 4ohm sub, but it's wired to 2ohm, so, when I go to multiply 500watts by the ohms to get my voltage, do I multiply the4ohm that my sub is, or by the 2ohm that it's wired to?
Daniel, if that's a dual 4 ohm subwoofer with the voice coils wired in parallel at 2 ohms, then you do the calculation based on 2 ohms. If that's a single 4 ohm subwoofer, there is no way to wire it at 2 ohms.
hi guys, i am trying the same method to set my gain, but no ac voltage reading on my multimeter. all wiring is okay. i did check their voltage. any idea ?
very informative tutorial, but i'm lost with the volt numbers, aren't most amplifiers input gain are between 0.2 volts and 6 volts..........can the multimeter be used to set that as well?
Christopher J they’re reading output. Not input
When I started with a flat EQ and set my amp to 21.5V, and then set the EQ to the "VIVID" setting and checked the voltage, it was over 30 volts. Same volume & test tone.
30 volts is way too high for the subs. I know I could do a custom EQ that keeps the lower bass flat and only boosts the highs, but why can't I just set the amp with the EQ on VIVID? I know I'm missing something, please advise.
Thank you for reaching out!
This question may be better suited for our tech team. Feel free to submit a request here: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
I see some video setting the multimeter to dc. Just to confirm, do I set the multimeter to dc or ac?
Just wanna make sure I’m doing this right I have 2 sub 300 watts 2 ohms each one Soo 600 total watt would I do 300 x 2 or 600 x 2
I realise it is different for different amps. I confirm raising the they equaliser by 3 db dont always double the amp output voltage but using the gain and changing the the sensitivity from 3 volts to 2 volts make big difference. I used a 0 db test tone and go into the setting and drop it -5db set my volume 38 which is clean set the eq to flat set my active crossover to output 4 volts pre out set my amps to accept 4 volts. Then I eq using the powerful eq plus I have the loudness on max and there is no clipping. And when playing music I get about 2.5 to 3 volts perhaps it speaking to 4 volts but sometime it could be quick so it not. I suspect many deck loudness setting and eq roll of as the volume get higher so you can get more bass without clipping because my deck when playing music was booster by 11db and it still not reach 4 volts like a test tone so a 0 test tone is extremely un realistic.
if I am using 2 speakers in parallel, one is 2.5 ohms and the other is 4, rated 75 RMS and 40 RMS respectively, should I use the smallest voltage of the two? this would essentially give me 64 rms and 40 rms which I am fine with. Think I got a little over 12 volts in my calculation. Thanks!
What you can do to make that better is the following.... Go to home Depot and get one of those big screw eyes. Ask someone to borrow a boat and go out to the middle of the lake. Screw the screw eye directly into the middle of those speakers and throw them off overboard for a boat anchor. Then start over using correct equipment...same brand and model speaker. Same impedance
@JL Audio. Does it have to be at 3/4 volume? I have the Pioneer 80prs and that is clean until around 60/62 according to my SMD DD-1. The gain is set on my amplifier too to match that of the headunit. The problem i am having though is that at volume 50 on the headunit, the midrange in the doors really start to distort. I used to have passive crossovers between the tweeters and the midrange and I could play the midrange down to 125hz at a 12db slope very easily. Once I removed the crossovers though and went fully active, I've had to increase the high pass filter to 250hz at a 12db slope so that distortion doesn't come through. The Car is a 2011 BMW E90 and the speakers are MBQuart components consisting of 4" midrange and tweeters that are plug and play fit. The paperwork isn't great for them and some accounts say that they are 60 watts whilst other accounts say they are 80 watts. The underseats are Audison 8" woofers running in parallel to a 2ohm load. Each woofer is at 150watts RMS each. The amplifier is a five channel JBL GTR-7535, which is at 4x75watts@4ohm and 1x350watts@2ohm. I'll dial the power down on the sub so it's getting 300watts RMS rather than 350 imho. The only thing I have not done after using the DD1 is probing the speaker output with a DVM/Oscope to see see what voltage was being displayed when the clip light turned off, instead of simply relying on the distortion detector. I will be purchasing a Liumy LM2001 to check. I can only think of a few things that could be the issue.
a) - Too much power is going to the midranges.
b) - 125hz is too low a filter for them.
c) - When the passive crossovers were in place, they might have been masking some of the power going to the midranges.
AIso I'd need to use test tones that are appropriate for those channels, such as 8khz on the tweeters, 200hz on the mids and 60-80hz on the subs correct? Thanks
@Shakeel Faris, even if your head unit goes to almost max volume clean, I would still suggest using 3/4 so that you have a bit more gain overlap for various types of music if you are using the 0 db tones with the DD-1. If you are using the -5 db tones then it would be best to go to max clean volume to do so since the - db tones are another means of getting more overlap. For a 4 inch driver I would typically suggest a high pass at around 400 Hz at 24 db slope. Any lower and you can risk over excursion at high volume under good power. If the Audison drivers are midbass drivers then I would bandpass them from about 400 Hz and down and then run the 4 inch at 400 Hz up to about 4-5 Khz with a 24 db slope. Then run the tweeters from 4-5 Khz and up at 24 db slope. This should allow each speaker to run more efficiently and achieve a higher volume level safely. If the speakers still distort then you may need to dial the output of the amplifier a bit since this would now mean that they are being over powered. The tweeter channels will most likely need to be dialed back also to achieve a proper balance with the 4 inch and 8 inch drivers.
JL Audio I set it up yesterday using the dd1. The highest unclipped volume on the unit was what I got at 40hz using a 0db test tone was 57 out of 62 on the sub channel and on the mids and highs it was 60 out of 62, so when setting the gain, I used volume 57. For the gain overlap as per the dd1 instructions, I used -5db for the mids and highs and -10db for the subchannel. The only way I can bandpass the woofers is if I get another amp that has a subsonic filter on it. I’m not sure JL does a 5 channel with that ability? At present I have the underseats low passed at 125hz on a 12db slope, the mids highpassed at 200hz at 12db and lowpassed at 3.15khz at 24db with the tweeters highpassed at the same on 24db. The thing is though, wouldn’t 400hz coming from the Audison’s sound odd as it is a high frequency to send to them and they are running in mono to a two ohm load on the sub channel? I know they can play from 30hz to 500hz. If I had the means to bandpass the underseats I would highpass them at around 30-35 hz as I don’t have a dedicated subwoofer to take care of the really low end frequencies. Ideally, how many watts should be sent to the tweeters and the midrange?
@Shakeel Faris, I would consider adding a DSP such as the TwK 88. This would allow you full crossover capability for each independent channel. The TwK would also allow you to time delay each speaker so that the sound of each speaker reaches your listening position at the same time for even better blending and imaging. You could even apply a high pass to the 8 inch speakers as you mentioned to relieve them of the lowest bass frequencies. For now I would at least bandpass the 4 inch speakers as mentioned and bring the low pass of the 8 inch up to 400 hz to meet up to the 4 inch. This is safer than trying to play the 4 inch so low. If you have access to an RTA you could play pink noise through your system and put the mic at your listening position. Then look at the frequency graph on the RTA. If the levels are not matched up (which is typical at first) you can slowly dial gain down on the channels that are needed to balance with the 8 inch midbass. Typically the 4 inch will need to be brought down slightly and the tweeters quite a bit. Once all the frequency ranges match up db wise on the RTA then you know you have them level matched properly. Tweeters typically only need 15-20 watts to blend with the rest of the speakers.
@@JLAudioInc One more thing. I'll be getting the JL 700/5v2. I know that it has two sets of outputs for the sub which internally will see a 2 ohm load if I plug the woofers in individually, however, I have already wired my woofers in parallel at the woofers themselves, does this mean that I now have to rearrange the wiring at the woofer and separate them or can I simply keep the existing wiring as it is and just use one set of positive and negative terminals as though there is only one set at the amp? It's just to avoid the extra work like taking off the panels to undo the wiring. If that is the case, which set of terminals do I need to use on the amp, the two outward ones or the two in the centre? Thanks
@Shakeel Faris, the connections at the subwoofer terminal are paralleled together to make it convenient to parallel two subwoofers together right at the amp. If the subwoofers are already paralleled together inside your enclosure at 2 ohm then you can just run one positive and negative back to the amp. The amp will then see it as a common 2 ohm load.
Can u mess with the bass and treble after you set the gains???
Diego, you can make adjustments to both after you have set your levels, but you have to be mindful that adding boost will usually start to distort the audio output through the stereo. I recommend trying to make cuts only, whenever possible.
Hi. For 4 ohm driver with crossover attach, calculation still base on 4 ohm right.
That's correct. Use the rated nominal impedance for the driver(s) being used.
I am sorry I know this has been asked I just can't seem to find the right answer when finding my target voltage and running speakers in parallel. I have a mono block that is 1500w X 1rms @ 2ohm powering my (2) 12 inch subs that are 4 ohm 50-400 watts rms. I have them ran parallel so down to 2ohm. Just not sure of the target voltage. I think 54.7 but not sure I'm doing it right. Can you please help. Also what should the crossover frequency be set at? I believe my goes from 40 to 130hz.....
Ben, the target voltage would be 40v for 800w RMS @ 2 ohms. I would not recommend running it at the full rms of the amplifier because the woofers are not designed to hold that much power. I'd set the low pass filter at 80hz.
Thank you so much for your help and the quick response. And saving my speakers. Great video
The jd500/1 is not listed on the website site. Can you give output rating for that model?
The output rating is 500 watts at 2 ohm and 250 watts at 4 ohm
I have a questions, is mono block amp can use to fire up our front mid and tweeters?
Hello.
A monoblock amplifier only has one channel, and most have a limited frequency response, as they're designed to be used with subwoofers only. If you wanted to use a monoblock to drive main speakers, you'd need one amplifier that is full range (or very wide range) for each left and right side speaker.
A multi-channel amplifier is far simpler for the application.
JLAudioInc ok understood,thanks
Rob - Where do you get that exact screwdriver?
Snapon
What if I am running a higher rms five channel amp with lower rms door speakers? My amp pushes out 100 watt rms x 4 channel at 4 ohms. My speakers are rated at 40w rms at 4ohma with a 93db sensitivity. Do i calculate the targeted voltage by the amp wattage? Which is 1200 watts. Or do i calculate by my lower rms door speakers which are 40 watts? I have yet to install a sub yet. But i assume I should wait to set the 50hz test tone when I install my sub correct?
@Mr.Rustyapple, if you wish to try to limit the output of your amplifier a bit you can take the low wattage you wish to achieve and multiply it by the impednace. Then take the square root of that answer for your new, lower target voltage. So 40 watts at 4 ohm would be 40 times 4 = 160. The square root would be 12.6 volts for your new target.
@@JLAudioInc great thanks!
I have two questions... 1. I have a JX500/1 monoblock amp with a 300 watt TW1 2ohm sub, do i set the input sens. to the 500 watt rating or the 300 watt rating?? 2. When setting input sensitivity do i turn the bass knob all the way down??
@Derrick James, I would suggest following the input sensitivity setting guide in the manual, but use a lower target voltage such as 24.5 volts which would be equivalent to 300 watts at 2 ohm. This should add a buffer of safety for the subwoofer.
i always set the gain based on the power rating of the speakers connected to it. And always have amp that puts out more power than the speaker is rated for, just to give the amp a ceiling
Where do I get a tiny flathead screwdriver like yours? 2:20
Very popular to see these small tools at hobby stores, hardware stores, or you can use one from a glasses repair kit as well.
Question: I paired my setup accordingly. 2 750 rms watt subs (12"L7Ss) and one 1500W RMS CEA rated (Rockville DB15) everything at 2 ohms, so WHY would I encounter any clipping? Not saying that I have, although I think I have, but my question is would I encounter clipping if my Bass Boost is kept at zero? SECOND QUESTION: if I keep my amps bass boost off but use my bass knob, is that considered using "bass boost"? Tyvm for answers!
Hey, Brandon. We are flattered you are asking our advice for your system. You have not listed any of our products that you are using so this is a freebie (because JL Audio rules).
The very basic answer is yes. depending on how the input sensitivity (or possibly called "gain" on your amplifier) was set it is entirely possible to still overdrive the amplifier and introduce clipping and distortion to the subwoofer system. We will link a 9 step video showing you a great method to set this dial to ensure full power but not overdriving the amplifier. It is important to note here that ALL JL audio amplifiers will make their rated power cleanly, this is not always the case. Not being familiar with your specific amplifier I can not make that guarantee you would have to fall back on the manual or manufacturer website for that info. Assuming you are correct in that amplifier being capable of 1500 RMS watts then your target voltage for setting the amplifier for 1500 watts into a 2 ohm load will be 54.77 AC volts.
In regards to the bass knob functionality it can vary from various manufacturers and even models from the same manufacturer. I would again suggest you fall back on the manual or website for that info.
We certainly hope this information helps you dial in your subwoofer system. All we ask is the next time you are in the market for mobile, marine, home, or power sports audio that you consider using our products in your build.
ua-cam.com/video/2eRYzXBmWq8/v-deo.html
@@JLAudioInc Wow, JL Audio does rock! I promise I certainly will consider JL Audio especially due to this response and JL Audio's website! Thank you very much!
Hai JL... Thanks for the video
I have 2 Doubts
1. , can you explain what should be the positions of HPF & LPF, switches provided in the Amplifier while doing the gain setting for full range speakers and subwoofers
In a 4 channel amp. (1/2 For speaker) &( 3/4 for Sub woofer bridge)
2. In every videos in UA-cam regarding the gain setting , they are using RCA input.. is that mandatory.. ?? What would happen if I use speaker level input instead of RCA while doing the Gain setting...
Please help...
@@HariKrishnan-jl4hm maybe i can help. the position of the hpf-lpf are to be as wide as possable. for example: 160 hpf - 20lpf thats your tuning area.
doest matter one bit if you use the high level inputs or low level (however) if you ad a LOC before the amp. to convert it to low level. you"ll have set the gains on that. which would be from the amps specs. (5v) or whatever.
your on the right track! its all trial and era.
i learned. setting the volume to half way. then setting the gains to its desired voltage sounded better at everyday listening.
if i go over the half way. i turn down the remote knob to off set the added clipping signal. just hours of tuning.
larry
@@mafosa8519 you should not be giving information when you need to learn it. The majority of head units will start clipping very close to the 3/4 of the way mark. That's why they tell you to set it there. If you actually got an oscope and did this for a living and not just for yourself you would understand this point. Crossovers do not need to be set to wide apart from each other low pass filter (depending on a few things ,sub size, box design and tune frequency). Normally LPF is set around 100hz sometimes 80hz sometimes 125hz depending on what I said above. Then (say you set your LPF @100hz) you then would set your high pass filter around 100hz to 125hz. Setting filters far apart just deletes frequencies that you will never hear.
Any information on a jx500/1 with an android headunit DSPEQ36?
That may be a question better suited for our tech team. Feel free to reach out and submit a support ticket here: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
So does following this method mean that you can 1) never turn your head unit past 3/4 of its max volume; and 2) that you have to leave all of the levels zeroed out (bass, treble, fade, q-factor/levels on head units with those functions, etc)?
steezs Yeah, and when you use 0dB test tones, I think you give yourself more volume headroom because lots of music is -3, -6, -9 etc., so it plays comparatively quieter than your test tones do, I'm pretty sure.
Considering the subwoofers are disconnected and then you are taking the reading with the dmm, wouldn't it change the load and therefore the voltage if you did this work the subs connected? Basically wouldn't the subs being disconnected as shown here give you a different result than if they were connected like in the real world setup of the amp? Does the load drop when the subs are connected change the timing of when you get the optimal voltage dialed in? Won't the clipping happen at a much higher gain setting when the subs are disconnected than it would when they are connected and causing a different load?
@Rob I, the meter method is testing for the voltage potential of the amplifier. This potential is the same whether a load is connected or not. Since we know our amplifiers are capable of their rated voltage whether a load is applied or not, we can simply test with no load or speaker attached so that we do not risk damage to the speaker itself when doing the test.
@@JLAudioInc ok. Makes perfect sense! Thank you for the verification.
@Rob I, you are very welcome.
Good day , my question is I have a pioneer gm D9604 with 130 watts rms per channel and got an 80 watts rms 6.9 speakers how can I set my gain ..thanks a lot for your help.
Hello, you can use this method and target voltage of 22.8 volts if you wish to use the full 130 watts per speaker. If you are a modest listener and play a wide variety of music then the extra power may be nice to have. You would have to be more cautious on the newer, more demanding music. If you wish to match up the amp at 80 watts per speaker, you will need a target voltage of 17.9 volts.
JLAudioInc thanks a lot.more power
I would def set the gain to match the RMS of the speakers and not the amp, which woul dbe 17.9V. Def should buy ~130W RMS speakers if setting gain for 130
Just did this to my ground zero amp. But i feel that it is not enough bass. Turning my pioneer headunit up to around 50 on the volume and 10 on speaker level (subwoofer) on the headunit makes it a bit better. Any tips? Digital design 12" sub
Tony, if you are setting the amplifier at 3/4 level and you did the proper target voltage calculation, then that's the amount of overall output the amp is designed to provide. If you feel you need more output, you'll want to consider another subwoofer or a larger subwoofer for more cone area. Trying to increase levels past the point where we know they're safe could lead to a shortened life span on the equipment.
@@JLAudioInc what do you mean with setting the amp to 3/4 level?
We recommend using the 3/4 point (75%) on your headunit to set the amplifier levels, is this what you did when setting the amp? If you followed the instructions and you're sure of the calculations used, then you have measured the output level of the amplifier to be what the manufacturer deemed to be the rated power. If you still need more bass, then you would need to consider a larger subwoofer or multiple subwoofers, and a more powerful amp.
Question, if you set this at 3/4 volume but run your system at nearly full volume quite often, will you not be clipping the speakers most of the time during normal use?
i think its cuz some songs are recorded at higher dB so it leaves some room in case it clips, either that or i read sometimes the HU itself can clip at full volume. Either way im still kinda lost on this and i just got an amp with a clip light lol
This is the issue using a multimeter, if gives you the info you need however it comes with the caveat that you already know the signal is clean. To me, it's very important to know how high you can turn up your receiver before it sends a clipped signal to the amp, even more important than knowing where to set the gain because if it's sending a clipped signal to the amp, anywhere you set the gain knob is gonna be clipping point. Not good!!
I bought an $80 multimter/oscilloscope off Amazon and used that to tell me how high I can turn up my receiver before it clips, and then it tells me how high i can set the gain before clipping occurs. And yes, it's def not as detailed of a sine wave as a $300 oscilloscope, but at least you know when you've reached your clipping point!
@@GlycerinZ yeah i was looking at oscilliscopes, but after getting an amp with a clip light, im surprised how much gain and volume it needs before it starts clipping. A new sub or amp is about the same as a decent oscilliscope so im just gonna wait till one blows lol
I have a JL-12W7 with a JL-HD1200/1, and my brother has a JL-12W6 with a JL-HD750/1.
We are both getting very frustrated and are thinking about returning all of our JL Audio equipment because we are having issues getting these amps dialed in.
I tuned our systems and set the gain using the JL-Audio 50hz 0db test tone ('09 Sine Wave 50hz-1') using my AC Voltage tester. The 12W6 (2Ω) sounded a little over powered at 38.7V and the 12W7 (3Ω) sounded very under powered at 60.0V.
NOTE 1: We both have an AudioControl LC2i for the RCA jacks.
NOTE 2: Our stock speakers are powered by our stock head-units and the stock speakers sound like crap when the Treble and Bass remain Flat! So I adjusted both systems with max Treble and Bass and the main volume at it's highest non-distortion level and with the JL bass/gain knobs maxed out.
What do I need to do to get the max bass out of these JL Audio systems with stock head-units and speakers?
Get a DD-1 and find ypur head unit's distortion point with the settings, flat. Use the 40z 0db tone for the bass amp. When you find that point, play the 1khz 0db and see if the head unit distorts at the same volume. Use the 1khz volume level as the reference. As far as setting the gain on the amp, use the DD-1 test CD and play either track 5 or 7(7 allows for higher output). With the DD-1 connected to the amps speaker outputs, starting at minimum gain level, turn it up slowly until you see the clipping light stay on, then back it off just enough to turn the red light off.
I've done this with my two 12w3v4 subs, and I've broken the 145db mark only using 600w.
@@jamesmurray4312 Thank you for your response! It's 3yrs later and I didn't know anyone responded to my reply. 😂😂
My Kenwood KAC 8405 Amp isn't on your list. How do I find the correct voltage to set it to? Thanks for the great video...
The target voltage is the square root of the RMS x Impedance per channel. So for that amplifier using typical 4 ohm speakers it would be: square root of [ 60 (rms watts) X 4 (ohm) ], which is 15.49V .. Hope this helps!
You're the fastest reply ever! Thanks. Great. You've finally helped my to set my amp after years of listening to it too low. I'm so happy lol! Thank you
No problem, enjoy!
So each channel on the amp is 90W @ 2 OHM. The speakers are also rated at 2 OHM. So 90W x 2 = 180. Square root of 180 = 13.4Volts.
Yes, that's correct.
What happens if i put a 350watt psu on a 700watt amp? Is it going to explode when the bass drops?
-SakiSkai- no set the gain by taking square root of 350 and set it till your voltage reads that number in speaker output
What kind of deck is in this civic???? thanks JL
Stock Honda head unit. Has a 7" touch screen, back-up camera, blind spot camera, Bluetooth, USB, HDMI and more. There was really no need to take it out and is why the FiX 82 is being used to correct the factory equalization and send it on to the amplifier.
Good video Tanx
But how to set the volume button on the amp while setting the gain?
Or is the volume button not important??
Marcello, the volume on the stereo should be at 3/4 volume. If you have a level control knob connected to the amplifier, disconnect it for setting the amp levels, then reconnect once you've completed the process.
@@JLAudioInc
Its not a volume knob connected with a whire orso
Its the volume knob on the amp itself next to the gain knob
What model amp are you referring to?
@@JLAudioInc
Its a Gravity ps 1600
That amplifier does not have volume knobs, those are the crossover frequency dials. We'd recommend setting them around 80hz as a good starting point. Set your switches to HPF on the channels with coaxial speakers, and LPF on any channels connected to a subwoofer.
Does it matter where your low pass and high pass filters are set while doing this? I noticed yours was on 80hz.
Thanks.
We suggest setting the filters first to account for any roll off of frequencies that are occurring.
On the civic did you guys use another battery or something. I have a 9th gen civic as well and I'm running a 500/1 slash and 2 8w7AE and my lights always dim.
Did you solve the dimming lights problem?I know, its been 3 years :)
Does anyone know, what the output gain levels are coming out of the Cadillac CUE system / Escalade / CTS V / CTS VSport / ATS, greatly appreciated.
SIlvano - we apologize for the delay. Contact our tech team - they will be able to assist you with this: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
@@JLAudioInc I just submitted by question, thank you.
I recently bought the same xd400 amp and use it to power a set of C5 components and a set of C5 coaxials. Should my amp settings look exactly like yours (filter freq, etc?) Also, I would use the 17.3 setting, right?
@Marty Marinez, I would suggest 80 Hz high pass for the C5 speakers. Then follow our level setting guide with a targer of 17.3 volts at 4 ohm.
@@JLAudioInc Thank you. Also, this amp should not be very hot to the touch with the setup I currently have, right? After about an hour drive home it wasn't burning but it definitely was warm. Could the amp being on 120hz cause this?
@Mary Martinez, the amp will get warm, but shouldn't be overly hot. Having a higher setting wouldn't cause it to run hotter, no. As long as you use a meter or scope to set the sensitivity and have room around the amplifier it should be fine.
@@JLAudioInc Thank you. Customer service is just another reason I chose to go with nothing but jl audio. Stealthbox w6 for the 6th gen Camaro is next. Can you recommend the perfect amp for it?
@Marty Martinez, you are very welcome. I would suggest the XD600/1v2 for a single 12W6v3.
why is it that when i did this and hit target voltage as per math. then i play music the voltage is about half? no change in head unit volume just a change in supplied program.. test tone vs music. normal? seems like there is more on the table
Thanks for reaching out! Music is dynamic and not a constant tone like used for setting sensitivity. This is why average voltage would be less when testing with music. The tone is used at 3/4 volume to give you leeway to go up a bit in volume from 3/4 for quieter tracks.
Why cant we use attenuated test tones with these JL
Amps?
Doing this on a factory radio, will this blow out the door speakers if trying to use the 50 hz sound wave?
It is possible to damage the speakers since you cannot mute channels on the OEM radio. In this case, the right way to do it would be to disconnect the speakers themselves so you can play the sine wave through the amp only.
@@JLAudioInc awesome thanks for the info